WO2012038534A1 - Composition cosmétique comprenant au moins un sel de calcium, au moins un alcool gras, au moins un tensioactif cationique et au moins un épaississant - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique comprenant au moins un sel de calcium, au moins un alcool gras, au moins un tensioactif cationique et au moins un épaississant Download PDF

Info

Publication number
WO2012038534A1
WO2012038534A1 PCT/EP2011/066599 EP2011066599W WO2012038534A1 WO 2012038534 A1 WO2012038534 A1 WO 2012038534A1 EP 2011066599 W EP2011066599 W EP 2011066599W WO 2012038534 A1 WO2012038534 A1 WO 2012038534A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
chosen
calcium
cosmetic composition
composition according
alcohol
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/EP2011/066599
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Anne-Sophie Albert
Samira Khenniche
Isabelle Rollat-Corvol
Original Assignee
L'oreal
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Publication of WO2012038534A1 publication Critical patent/WO2012038534A1/fr

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/20—Halogens; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41—Amines
    • A61K8/416—Quaternary ammonium compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731—Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/87—Polyurethanes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/58—Metal complex; Coordination compounds

Definitions

  • Cosmetic composition comprising at least one calcium salt, at least one fatty alcohol, at least one cationic surfactant and
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, compri sing at least 1 .5% by weight of one or more water-solubl e calcium salts, one or more fatty alcohol s, one or more cationi c surfactants, one or more nonionic or cationic thickeners and an amount of water greater than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and al so to the use of the sai d cosmetic composition for haircare.
  • the present invention al so relates to a cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres using the said cosmetic composition.
  • Hair i s generally subj ect to the action of external atmospheric agents, such as light and bad weather.
  • mechanical treatments such as brushing, combing or pl aiting, or long-lasting dyeing, colouring, permanent-waving, thiol- or alkali-mediated straightening or alkali-mediated relaxing cosmetic treatments al so damage and embrittle the hair.
  • products for improving the appearance of the hair have b een developed.
  • These products are generally cosmetic compositions such as shampoos or hair conditioners, leave-in products, masks or sera.
  • compositions comprising cationic conditioning agents that may be combined with silicone conditioning agents . These products have sati sfactory cleansing effects, but form a structure around the hair that i s not always uniform.
  • Japanese patent application JP 2003095891 proposes, for its part, compositions compri sing salts of quaternary ammonium type that are easy to rinse out.
  • the aim of the present invention i s to provide a composition that can achieve these obj ectives.
  • a cosmetic composition compri sing one or more water- soluble calcium salts in an amount of greater than or equal to 1 .5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, one or more fatty alcohol s, one or more cationic surfactants, one or more nonionic or cationi c thickeners and an amount of water which i s greater than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition has improved properties for solving the problems mentioned above.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention can give keratin fibres, and more parti cularly wet or dry hair, improved cosmetic properties especially as regards the sheen, the smoothness, the suppleness, the lightness, the uniformity and the fineness (sensation of having finer hair), while at the same time controlling the volume of the hair.
  • composition according to the invention enables control of the head of hair and of its volume especially as a function of the relative humidity of the air, especially for relative humidities that may range from 20% to 80%.
  • the hairstyle thus remains in place more easily, and for longer, the volume of the head of hair i s controlled, and the frizzing i s greatly reduced.
  • the relative humidity (RH) or hygrometry represents the measurement of the amount of water in the air.
  • Thi s measurement is taken using a machine such as a psychrometer or a capacitive-probe hygrometer, and i s defined by the ratio of the pressure exerted by the water vapour contained in the air at a given temperature to the saturating vapour pressure (i. e. the maximum amount of water vapour that thi s air could ab sorb at thi s temperature) . It is given as a percentage on a scale ranging from 0 to 100% .
  • compositions according to the invention are al so more stable on storage .
  • the stability on storage of the compositions according to the invention may be improved both at room temperature (20-25 °C) and at 45 °C, especially as regards their vi sual aspect and their vi scosity.
  • the term " stable" means that the vi sual aspect and vi scosity of these compositions do not change sub stantially over time under standard storage test conditions, for example over 12, preferably 24 and even more preferably 30 months at room temperature or over 2 months at 45°C following their manufacture.
  • compositions thus obtained al so have good working properties, i. e. these compositions can be rinsed out and be spread more easily over the entire head of hair.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention have a texture that enables them, once appli ed to the hair, to remain for certain time without running.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention can be deposited on the hair without running. Thi s improved, or even gelled, texture enables smaller amounts of products to be used.
  • hair treated with the cosmetic compositions according to the invention dries more quickly .
  • One subj ect of the present invention is a cosmetic composition preferably for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising one or more water-soluble calcium salts in an amount of greater than or equal to 1 .5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, one or more fatty alcohol s, one or more cationic surfactants, one or more nonionic or cationic thickeners and an amount of water which i s greater than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the present invention al so relates to the use of a cosmetic composition as defined above for conditioning keratin fibres, such as the hair.
  • composition according to the invention compri ses an amount of greater than or equal to 1 .5 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of one or more water-soluble calcium salts .
  • water-soluble calcium salt means a calcium salt with a solubility in water at 20°C of greater than or equal to 20 g/litre (g/L) of water, preferentially 100 g/L and even more preferentially 300 g/L.
  • the calcium salts according to the invention have solubilities ranging from 30 to 4500 g/L.
  • the water-soluble calcium salts according to the invention are preferably chosen from inorganic calcium salts.
  • the calcium salts may be anhydrous or hydrated.
  • the water-soluble calcium salt(s) used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from calcium iodide, calcium bromi de, calcium chloride, calcium gluconate, calcium borogluconate, calcium sulfate, calcium lactate, calcium cyclamate, calcium levulinate, calcium phenol sulfonate, calcium thiosulfate, calcium nitrate and calcium acetate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the calcium salt used in the composition according to the invention i s calcium chloride, calcium gluconate, calcium lactate, calcium acetate or calcium sulfate, or mixtures thereof.
  • the calcium metal salt(s) used in the composition according to the invention are preferably chosen from inorganic calcium salts.
  • the calcium salt used in the composition according to the invention is calcium chlori de, especially the dihydrate salt.
  • the water-soluble calcium salt(s) used in the composition according to the present invention are preferably present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 1 .5% to 50% by weight, preferentially in an amount ranging from 1 .5% to 20% by weight and even more preferentially in an amount ranging from 2% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Fatty alcohols preferably present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 1 .5% to 50% by weight, preferentially in an amount ranging from 1 .5% to 20% by weight and even more preferentially in an amount ranging from 2% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention al so compri ses one or more fatty alcohols.
  • fatty alcohol means any saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohol containing at least 8 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH in which R denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched radical containing from 8 to 40 and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms; R preferably denotes a C 8 - C40 and preferably C 12 - C24 alkyl or a C 8 - C40 and preferably C 12 - C24 alkenyl group . R may be sub stituted with one or more hydroxyl groups and especially with one or two hydroxyl groups .
  • Examples that may be mentioned include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl al cohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol and erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty alcohol may represent a mixture of fatty alcohols, which means that several species of fatty alcohol may coexi st, in the form of a mixture, in a commercial product.
  • the fatty alcohol is solid or pasty at a temperature of 25 °C .
  • the term "fatty alcohol that is solid or pasty at 25 °C” means a fatty alcohol that has a vi scosity, measured with a rheometer (for example an R600 rheometer) at a shear rate of 1 s " 1 , of greater than or equal to 1 Pa. s.
  • the fatty alcohol s used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are stearyl al cohol, cetyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetyl stearyl alcohol.
  • the fatty alcohol used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention i s cetyl alcohol.
  • the fatty alcohol(s) used in the composition according to the present invention may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 30%, preferably in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% and even more preferentially in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 10%) by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Nonionic or cationic thickeners may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 30%, preferably in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% and even more preferentially in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 10%
  • composition according to the invention comprises one or more nonionic or cationic thickeners.
  • thickener means any compound whose presence increases the viscosity of the composition into which it is introduced by at least 25 cps and preferably 50 cps at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s "1 .
  • the nonionic thickener(s) may be chosen from fatty acid amides, oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters and nonionic thickening polymers, or mixtures thereof.
  • fatty acid amide means an amide comprising in its structure at least one hydrocarbon-based chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty acid amides are more particularly chosen from compounds derived from an amide of an alkanolamine and of a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C30 fatty acid, the alkanolamine and/or the fatty acid being optionally oxyalkylenated and more particularly oxyethylenated with 1 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide.
  • the fatty acid amides are chosen from amides of a C2-C10 alkanolamine and of a C14-C30 fatty acid, and even more preferentially from amides of a C2-C10 alkanolamine and of a C14-C22 fatty acid.
  • the fatty acid amide is chosen from:
  • - myristic acid monoethanolamide such as the amide sold under the trade name Comperlan® MM by the company Cognis
  • - soybean fatty acid diethanolamide such as the amide sold under the trade name Comperlan® VOD by the company Cogni s
  • - stearic acid monoethanol ami de such as the amide sold under the trade name Monamid® 972 by the company ICI/Uniqema,
  • erucic acid diethanolamide such as the amide sold under the trade name erucic acid diethanolamide by the company Stearineries Dubois,
  • ricinoleic acid monoethanolamide such as the amide sold under the trade name ricinoleic monoethanolamide by the company Stearineries Duboi s,
  • the nonionic thickener(s) may be chosen from oxyalkylenated derivatives of fatty acid esters or of fatty alcohol ethers.
  • Oxyalkyl enated derivatives of fatty acid esters that may especially be mentioned include ethoxylated alkyl or acyl derivative s of polyols, which may in particular be oxyethylenated derivatives of C6 - C30 fatty acid esters or of C6 - C30 fatty alcohol ethers, and of polyols such as glycerol, sorbitol, glucose, pentaerythritol or polyethylene glycol, more particularly polyethylene glycol, these oxyethylenated derivatives generally compri sing from 50 to 500 oxyethylene groups and preferably from 100 to 300 oxyethylene group s.
  • Examples of compounds of this type include ethylene glycol stearate, polyethylene glycol di stearate compri sing 1 50 oxyethyl ene group s ( 1 50 OE), oxyethylenated (200 OE) glyceryl stearate, such as the product sold under the name Simul sol 220 TM® by the company SEPPIC, oxyethylenated ( 1 50 OE) pentaerythrityl tetrastearate, such as the product sold under the name Crothix® by the company Croda, oxyethylenated ( 120 OE) methylglucose dioleate, such as the product sold under the name Glucamate DOE- 120 Vegetal® by the company Amerchol, oxyethylenated ( 160 OE) sorbitan trii sostearate such as the product sold under the name Rheodol TW IS399C by the company Kao Chemical s, and oxyeth
  • the oxyethylenated fatty acid esters are of formula (A) below:
  • X denoting a linear or branched C 1 -C 4 alkylene radical, and preferably the radical having the following formula:
  • Ri denoting a linear or branched C > - C 2 9 alkyl or alkenyl radical
  • R 2 denoting a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C > - C 2 9 alkyl or alkenyl radical.
  • polyethylene glycol di stearate compri sing 1 50 oxyethylene groups ( 1 50 OE) i s preferred.
  • the thickening polymers of the invention are different from the amides and esters already described and al so from products resulting merely from the condensation of an alkylene oxide with an alcohol, an ester or an amide.
  • the nonionic thickening polymers may be associative or non- associative.
  • non-associative thickening polymer means a thickening polymer not simultaneously compri sing at least one C 8 - C 3 0 fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic unit.
  • nonionic non-associative thickening polymers according to the invention may be of natural or synthetic origin . They are chosen especially from:
  • nonionic homopolymers or copolymers containing ethylenically unsaturated monomers of ester and/or amide type are polyamides, especially the products sold under the names : Cyanamer P250 by the company Cytec (polyacrylamide) ; methyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate copolymers (PMMA MBX-8C by the company US Cosmetics); butyl methacrylate/methyl methacrylate copolymers (Acryloid B66 by the company Rohm & Haas); polymethyl methacrylate (BPA 500 by the company Kobo) .
  • polyamides especially the products sold under the names : Cyanamer P250 by the company Cytec (polyacrylamide) ; methyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate copolymers (PMMA MBX-8C by the company US Cosmetics); butyl methacrylate/methyl methacrylate copolymers (Acryloid B66 by the company Rohm & Haa
  • the vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers or copolymers are chosen especially from crosslinked vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers such as the Polymer ACP- 10 sold by ISP .
  • the thickening polysaccharides are especially chosen from glucans, modified or unmodified starches (such as those derived, for example, from cereals, for instance wheat, corn or rice, from vegetables, for instance yellow pea, and tubers, for instance potato or cassava), amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, dextrans, cellul oses and derivatives thereof (methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcellulo ses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses), mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, chitin, chitosans, glucuronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, pectic acids and pectins, arabinogalactans, carrageenans, agars, gum arables, gum tragacanths, ghatti gum s, karaya gums, carob gums, gal
  • the compounds of this type that may be used in the present invention are chosen from those described especially in Kirk- Othmer' s Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Third Edition, 1 982, volume 3 , pp . 896-900, and volume 1 5 , pp . 439-458, in Polymers in Nature by E. A. MacGregor and C . T . Greenwood, published by John Wiley & Sons, Chapter 6, pp . 240-328, 1980, and in Industrial Gums - Polysaccharides and their Derivatives, edited by Roy L. Whi stler, Second Edition, published by Academi c Press Inc. , the content of these three publications being entirely included in the present patent application by way of reference.
  • Starches, guar gums and cellulo ses and derivatives thereof will preferably be used.
  • the polysaccharides can be modified or unmodified.
  • the unmodifi ed guar gums are, for example, the products sold under the name Vidogum GH 175 by the company Unipectine and under the names Meypro-Guar 50 and Jaguar C by the company Rhodia Chimie.
  • the modified nonionic guar gums are especially modified with C 1 -C6 hydroxyalkyl groups .
  • hydroxyalkyl groups that may be mentioned, for example, are hydroxymethyl, hydroxy ethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.
  • guar gums are well known in the prior art and can b e prepared, for example, by reacting the corresponding alkene oxides such as, for example, propylene oxides, with the guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups .
  • the degree of hydroxyalkylation which corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum, preferably ranges from 0.4 to 1 .2.
  • nonionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60 and Jaguar HP 120, Jaguar DC 293 and Jaguar HP 105 by the company Rhodia Chimie or under the name Galactasol 4H4FD2 by the company Aqualon.
  • celluloses that are especi ally used are hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcellulo ses . Mention may be made of the products sold under the names Klucel EF, Klucel H, Klucel LHF, Klucel MF and Klucel G by the company Aqualon, and Cellosize Polymer PCG- 10 by the company Amerchol.
  • the associative nonionic thickening polymers according to the invention may be chosen from:
  • hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with alkylphenyl polyalkylene glycol ether groups such as the product Amercell Polymer HM- 1 500 ® (polyethylene glycol ( 15) nonylphenyl ether) sold by the company Amerchol,
  • hydroxypropyl guars modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as the product Esaflor HM 22 ® (C22 alkyl chain) sold by the company Lamberti, and the products RE210- 1 8 ® (C i 4 alkyl chain) and RE205 - 1 ® (C20 alkyl chain) sold by the company Rhone-Poulenc.
  • copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and of hydrophobic monomers compri sing at least one fatty chain, such as, for example, the polyethylene glycol methacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer.
  • polyurethane polyethers compri sing in their chain both hydrophilic blocks usually of polyoxyethylenated nature and hydrophobic blocks, which may be aliphatic sequences alone and/or cycloaliphatic and/or aromatic sequences.
  • polymers with an aminoplast ether backbone containing at least one fatty chain such as the Pure Thix® compounds sold by the company Sud-Chemie.
  • the polyurethane polyethers compri se at least two hydrocarbon-based lipophilic chains containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block, the hydrocarbon-based chains possibly being pendent chains or chains at the end of the hydrophilic block.
  • the polymer may compri se a hydrocarbon-based chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic block.
  • the polyurethane polyethers may be multiblock, in particular in triblock form.
  • the hydrophobic blocks may b e at each end of the chain (for example : triblock copolymer containing a hydrophilic central block) or di stributed both at the ends and in the chain (for example multiblock copolymer) .
  • These same polymers may al so b e graft polymers or star polymers.
  • the fatty-chain nonionic polyurethane polyethers may be triblock copolymers in which the hydrophilic block i s a polyoxyethylenated chain compri sing from 50 to 1000 oxyethylene groups .
  • the nonionic polyurethane polyethers compri se a urethane linkage between the hydrophilic blocks, whence ari ses the name.
  • By extension, also included among the fatty-chain nonionic polyurethane polyethers are those in which the hydrophilic blocks are linked to the lipophilic blocks via other chemical bonds.
  • fatty-chain nonionic polyurethane polyethers that may be used in the invention, it is also possible to use Rheolate 205® containing a urea function, sold by the company Rheox, or Rheolate® 208, 204 or 212, and also Acrysol RM 184®.
  • the product DW 1206B® from Rohm & Haas containing a C 2 o alkyl chain and a urethane bond, sold at a solids content of 20% in water, may also be used.
  • solutions or dispersions of these polymers especially in water or in aqueous-alcoholic medium.
  • examples of such polymers that may be mentioned are Rheolate® 255, Rheolate® 278 and Rheolate® 244 sold by the company Rheox.
  • the products DW 1206F and DW 1206J sold by the company Rohm & Haas may also be used.
  • polyurethane polyethers that may be used according to the invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen - Colloid Polym. Sci.271, 380-389 (1993).
  • a polyurethane polyether that may be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol, and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.
  • Aculyn 46® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of stearyl alcohol and of methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%);
  • Aculyn 44® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 1 50 or 1 80 mol of ethylene oxide, of decyl alcohol and of methylenebi s(4-cyclohexyl i socyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%)] .
  • the nonionic thickening polymers are chosen from non-associative polymers.
  • the nonionic thickening polymers are chosen from polysaccharides and even more preferentially from celluloses and derivatives thereof such as methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcellulo ses and ethylhydroxyethylcellulo ses .
  • the cationic thickener(s) may be chosen from associative or non-associative thickening polymers .
  • the non-associative cationic polymers may be chosen from dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate homopolymers quaternized with methyl chloride or dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers quaternized with methyl chloride and acrylamide.
  • the associative cationic polymers may be chosen from:
  • R and R' which may be identical or different, represent a hydrophobic group or a hydrogen atom
  • X and ⁇ ' which may be identical or different, represent a group compri sing an amine function optionally bearing a hydrophobic group, or alternatively a group L" ;
  • L, L' and L which may be identical or different, represent a group derived from a dii socyanate
  • P and P ' which may be identical or different, represent a group compri sing an amine function optionally bearing a hydrophobic group
  • Y represents a hydrophilic group
  • r is an integer between 1 and 100, preferably between 1 and 50 and in particular between 1 and 25 ;
  • n, m and p each range, independently of each other, between 0 and 1000;
  • the molecule containing at least one protonated or quaternized amine function and at least one hydrophobic group containing at least one protonated or quaternized amine function and at least one hydrophobic group .
  • the only hydrophobic groups are the groups R and R' at the chain ends .
  • R and R' both independently represent a hydrophobic group, X and X' each represent a group L",
  • n and p are between 1 and 1000, and
  • Another preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is the one corresponding to formula (I) above in which :
  • R and R' both independently represent a hydrophobic group
  • X and X' each represent a group L"
  • n and p are 0, and L, L ' , L", Y and m have the meaning given above .
  • n and p are 0 means that these polymers do not compri se units derived from a monomer containing an amine function, incorporated into the polymer during the polycondensation.
  • the protonated amine functions of these polyurethanes result from the hydrolysi s of excess i socyanate functions, at the chain end, followed by alkylation of the primary amine functions formed with alkylating agents containing a hydrophobic group, i. e . compounds of the type RQ or R' Q, in which R and R' are as defined above and Q denotes a leaving group such as a halide, a sulfate, etc.
  • R and R' both independently represent a hydrophobic group
  • X and X' both independently represent a group compri sing a quaternary amine
  • n and p are zero
  • the number-average molecular mass of the cationic associative polyurethanes i s preferably between 400 and 500 000, in particular between 1000 and 400 000 and ideally between 1000 and 300 000.
  • hydrophobic group means a radical or polymer containing a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, which may contain one or more heteroatoms such as P, O, N or S, or a radical containing a perfluoro or silicone chain.
  • hydrophobic group denotes a hydrocarbon-based radical, it compri ses at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 1 8 to 30 carbon atoms .
  • the hydrocarbon-based group is derived from a monofunctional compound.
  • the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol. It may al so denote a hydrocarbon-based polymer, for instance polybutadiene.
  • X and/or X' may represent one of the following formulae :
  • R 2 represents a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally compri sing a saturated or unsaturated ring, or an arylene radical, one or more of the carbon atoms possibly being replaced with a heteroatom chosen from N, S, O and P;
  • Ri and R 3 which may be identical or different, denote a linear or branched C i -C 30 alkyl or alkenyl radical or an aryl radical, at least one of the carbon atoms possibly being replaced with a heteroatom chosen from N, S, O and P;
  • Z represents -0-, - S- or -NH-
  • R 4 represents a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally compri sing a saturated or unsaturated ring, or an arylene radical, one or more of the carbon atoms possibly being replaced with a heteroatom chosen from N, S, O and P .
  • the groups P and P ' compri sing an amine function may represent at least one of the following formulae : r
  • R 5 and R 7 have the same meanings as R 2 defined above;
  • R 6 , R 8 and R9 have the same meanings as Ri and R3 defined above;
  • Rio represents a linear or branched, optionally unsaturated alkylene group possibly containing one or more heteroatoms chosen from N, O, S and P;
  • hydrophilic group means a polymeric or non-polymeric water-soluble group .
  • hydrophilic polymer when it i s a hydrophilic polymer, in accordance with one preferred embodiment, mention may be made, for example, of polyethers, sulfonated polyesters, sulfonated polyamides or a mixture of these polymers.
  • the hydrophilic compound i s preferentially a polyether and especially a poly(ethylene oxide) or poly(propylene oxide) .
  • the cationic associative polyurethanes of formula (I) that may be used according to the invention are formed from dii socyanates and from various compounds bearing functions containing a labil e hydrogen.
  • the functions containing a labile hydrogen may be alcohol, primary or secondary amine or thiol functions, giving, after reaction with the dii socyanate functions, polyurethanes, polyureas and polythioureas, respectively.
  • polyurethanes that may be used according to the present invention encompasses these three types of polymer, namely polyurethanes per se, polyureas and polythioureas, and al so copolymers thereof.
  • Thi s compound may be multifunctional, but the compound i s preferentially difunctional, that i s to say that, according to one preferential embodiment, thi s compound compri ses two labile hydrogen atoms borne, for example, by a hydroxyl, primary amine, secondary amine or thiol function.
  • a mixture of multifunctional and difunctional compounds in which the percentage of multifunctional compounds is low may al so be used.
  • thi s compound may compri se more than one unit containing an amine function. In thi s case, it i s a polymer bearing a repetition of the unit containing an amine function.
  • HZ-(P ' )p-ZH in which Z, P, ⁇ ' , n and p are as defined above.
  • Examples of compounds containing an amine function that may be mentioned include N-methyldiethanolamine, N-tert- butyldiethanolamine and N- sulfoethyldiethanolamine.
  • the second compound included in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (X) i s a dii socyanate corresponding to the formula:
  • methylenediphenyl dii socyanate By way of example, mention may be made of methylenediphenyl dii socyanate, methylenecyclohexane dii socyanate, i sophorone dii socyanate, tolylene dii socyanate, naphthalene dii socyanate, butane dii socyanate and hexane dii socyanate.
  • a third compound involved in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (I) i s a hydrophobic compound intended to form the terminal hydrophobic groups of the polymer of formula (XI) .
  • Thi s compound i s formed form a hydrophobic group and a function containing a labile hydrogen, for example a hydroxyl, primary or secondary amine, or thiol function.
  • thi s compound may be a fatty alcohol such as, in particular, stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl al cohol.
  • thi s compound compri ses a polymeric chain it may be, for example, a-hydroxylated hydrogenated polybutadiene.
  • the hydrophobic group of the polyurethane of formula (I) may al so result from the quaternization reaction of the tertiary amine of the compound comprising at least one tertiary amine unit.
  • the hydrophobic group i introduced via the quaternizing agent.
  • Thi s quaternizing agent i s a compound of the type RQ or R' Q, in which R and R' are as defined above and Q denotes a leaving group such as a halide, a sulfate, etc.
  • the cationic associative polyurethane may al so compri se a hydrophilic block.
  • Thi s block i s provided by a fourth type of compound involved in the preparation of the polymer. This compound may be multifunctional . It i s preferably difunctional . It i s also possible to have a mixture in which the percentage of multifunctional compound i s low.
  • the functions containing a labile hydrogen are alcohol, primary or secondary amine or thiol functions .
  • Thi s compound may be a polymer terminated at the chain ends with one of these functions containing a labile hydrogen .
  • hydrophili c compound i s preferentially a polyether and especially a poly(ethylene oxide) or poly(propylene oxide) .
  • the hydrophilic group termed Y in formula (I) i s optional may suffice to provide the solubility or water-di spersibility required for thi s type of polymer in an aqueous solution.
  • hydrophilic group Y is optional
  • cationic associative polyurethanes compri sing such a group are, however, preferred.
  • the quaternized cellulose derivatives are, in particular:
  • groups compri sing at least one fatty chain such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups compri sing at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof,
  • the alkyl radical s borne by the above quaternized celluloses or hydroxyethylcelluloses preferably contain from 8 to 30 carbon atoms .
  • the aryl radical s preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups .
  • Examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses containing C8-C30 fatty chains that may be mentioned include the products Quatrisoft LM 200®, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-A®, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18B® (C 12 alkyl) and Quatrisoft LM-X 529-8® (C 18 alkyl) or Softcat Polymer SL100 (C 12 alkyl) sold by the company Amerchol, and the products Crodacel QM®, Crodacel QL® (C12 alkyl) and Crodacel QS® (C 18 alkyl) sold by the company Croda.
  • Polyacrylate-1 Crosspolymer is the product of polymerization of a monomer mixture comprising:
  • the thickener(s) used in the composition according to the invention are nonionic.
  • the thickener(s) used in the composition according to the invention are polymers.
  • the thickeners used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from non-associative nonionic thickening polymers.
  • the thickeners used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from hydroxyalkylcelluloses and more particularly from hydroxy ethylcellulo se and hydroxy propyl cellulose.
  • the thickener used in the composition according to the invention is hydroxy ethylcellulo se.
  • the nonionic or cationic thickener(s) used in the composition according to the present invention may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.01 % to 20%, preferably in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 10% and even more preferentially in an amount ranging from 0.08% to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention al so compri ses one or more cationic surfactants .
  • the fatty amines generally compri se at least one C 8 - C 3 0 hydrocarbon-based chain.
  • examples that may be mentioned include stearylamidopropyldimethylamine and di stearylamine.
  • quaternary ammonium salts examples include :
  • radical s R 8 to Rn which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic radical compri sing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms or an aromatic radical such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the radicals R 8 to Rn comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the aliphatic radicals may comprise heteroatoms especially such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.
  • the aliphatic radicals are, for example, chosen from alkyl, alkoxy, polyoxy(C2-Ce)alkylene, alkylamide, (Ci2-C22)alkylamido(C2- C 6 )alkyl, (Ci2-C22) lkyl acetate or hydroxyalkyl radicals comprising approximately from 1 to 30 carbon atoms;
  • X " is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C2-C 6 )alkyl sulfates, or alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates;
  • Ri 2 represents an alkenyl or alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids
  • Rn represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical or an alkenyl or alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms
  • Ri 4 represents a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical
  • R15 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl radical
  • X " is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, or alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates.
  • R12 and Rn denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl radicals comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R14 denotes a methyl radical and R15 denotes a hydrogen atom.
  • R12 and Rn denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl radicals comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R14 denotes a methyl radical and R15 denotes a hydrogen atom.
  • Rewoquat® W 75 by the company Rewo;
  • Ri 6 denotes an alkyl radical containing approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms and optionally branched
  • Ri7 is selected from an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms Or a group (Ri 6 a)(Rl7a)(Rl8a)N + -(CH 2 )3-, Rl6a, Rl7a, Rl8a, Rl8,
  • Ri9, R20 and R 21 which may be identical or different, are selected from hydrogen and an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X " is an anion selected from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methyl sulfates.
  • Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, available from the company Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT, available from the company Finetex (Quaternium 75),
  • R22 is chosen from Ci-C 6 alkyl radicals and Ci-C 6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl radicals;
  • R23 is chosen from:
  • R-25 is chosen from:
  • Ci-C 6 hydrocarbon-based radicals R29 linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ci-C 6 hydrocarbon-based radicals R29,
  • R24, R26 and R 2 8 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon-based radicals;
  • r, s and t which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6;
  • y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10;
  • x and z which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10;
  • X " is a simple or complex organic or inorganic anion
  • the alkyl radicals R22 may be linear or branched, but more particularly linear.
  • R22 preferably denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl radical, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl radical.
  • the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.
  • R 23 is a hydrocarbon-based radical R27, it may be long and may contain from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or may be short and may contain from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
  • R 2 5 is a hydrocarbon-based radical R29, it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
  • R 24 , R26 and R 28 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 hydrocarbon-based radicals, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cn-C 21 alkyl and alkenyl radicals.
  • x and z which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1.
  • y is equal to 1.
  • r, s and t which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.
  • the anion is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulfate, more particularly methyl sulfate.
  • halide chloride, bromide or iodide
  • alkyl sulfate more particularly methyl sulfate.
  • methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion that is compatible with the ammonium containing an ester function may be used.
  • the anion X " is even more particularly chloride or methyl sulfate.
  • R 22 denotes a methyl or ethyl radical
  • - R 2 5 is chosen from:
  • R-24 , R-26 and R 28 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 13 -C 17 hydrocarbon-based radical s and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 13 -C 17 alkyl and alkenyl radical s .
  • the hydrocarbon-based radical s are advantageously linear.
  • acyl radical s preferably contain 14 to 1 8 carbon atoms and are obtained more particularly from a plant oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl radical s, these radical s may be identical or different.
  • an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably a methyl or ethyl halide), a dialkyl sulfate (preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulfate), methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably a methyl or ethyl halide), a dialkyl sulfate (preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulfate), methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by the company Henkel, Stepanquat® by the company Stepan, Noxamium® by the company CECA or Rewoquat® WE 1 8 by the company Rewo-Witco.
  • the composition according to the invention preferably contains a mixture of quaternary ammonium salts of mono-, di- and triesters with a weight maj ority of diester salts.
  • mixtures of ammonium salts that may be used include the mixture containing 15% to 30% by weight of acyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium methyl sulfate, 45% to 60% of diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methyl sulfate and 15% to 30% of triacyloxyethylmethylammonium methyl sulfate, the acyl radicals containing from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and being derived from palm oil that is optionally partially hydrogenated.
  • ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 137 180.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic surfactants chosen from the compounds of formula (II) or (V).
  • quaternary ammonium salts of formula (II) preference is given firstly to tetraalkylammonium chlorides, for instance dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl radical contains approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethyl- ammonium chloride, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, or else, secondly, distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate or distearoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, or else, lastly, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium
  • cationic surfactants from among cetyltrimethylammonium (INCI: cetrimonium), behenyltrimethylammonium (INCI: behentrimonium), dip almitoylethylhydroxyethylmethyl ammonium, distearoylethyl- hydroxyethylmethylammonium, methyl(C9-Ci9) alkyl(Cio-
  • C2o)alkylamidoethylimidazolium and stearamidopropyl dimethyl amine salts chloride or methosulfate
  • stearamidopropyldimethyl- ammonium salt and mixtures thereof, are preferably chosen.
  • the cationic surfactants that are particularly preferred in the composition of the invention are selected from quaternary ammonium salts, and in particular from cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyl trim ethyl ammonium chloride, benzyldimethylstearyl ammonium chloride and palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride.
  • Use may be made of behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride sold by KAO under the name Quatarmin BTC 131.
  • the cationic surfactant(s) used in the composition according to the present invention may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 20%, preferably an amount of cationic surfactants ranging from 0.05% to 10%) and even more preferentially in an amount of cationic surfactants ranging from 0.1%> to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions of the invention may comprise one or more other active agents that are common in hair hygiene or haircare.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise one or more additional fatty substances other than fatty alcohols.
  • fatty substance means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at ordinary room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), with a solubility in water of less than 5%), preferably 1%> and even more preferentially 0.1%>.
  • fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, ethanol, benzene or liquid petroleum jelly.
  • the additional fatty substance(s) other than fatty alcohols are chosen from fatty acids, esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, and non-silicone animal, plant, mineral or synthetic oil s other than the abovementioned esters, and mixtures thereof.
  • Oil s are chosen from fatty acids, esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, and non-silicone animal, plant, mineral or synthetic oil s other than the abovementioned esters, and mixtures thereof.
  • non-silicone oil s that may be used in the composition of the invention, examples that may be mentioned include :
  • hydrocarbon-based oil s of animal origin such as perhydrosqualene
  • triglycerides of plant or synthetic origin such as liquid fatty acid triglycerides containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for exampl e, sunflower oil, corn oil, pracaxi oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, camellina oil , castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol ® 8 10, 8 12 and 8 1 8 by the company Dynamit Nobel, j oj oba oil and shea butter oil ;
  • fluoro oil s that may al so be mentioned include perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro- 1 , 3 -dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names Flutec ® PC 1 and Flutec ® PC3 by the company BNFL Fluorochemical s; perfluoro- 1 ,2- dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050 ® and PF 5060 ® by the company 3 M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name Foralkyl ® by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyi sobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052 ® by the company 3
  • the fatty esters and fatty acids more particularly contain one or more linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based groups compri sing from 1 to 30 and preferably 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which are optionally sub stituted, in particular with one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4) . If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conj ugated or unconj ugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
  • dihydroabietyl behenate octyldodecyl behenate; i socetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; C 12 -C 1 5 alkyl lactate; i sostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (i so)stearyl octanoate; i socetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; i socetyl i sostearate; i socetyl laurate; i socetyl stearate; i sodecyl octanoate; i sodecyl oleate; i sononyl isononanoate; i sostearyl palmitate; methylacetyl ricino
  • esters of C4 - C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C 1 - C22 alcohol s and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C2 - C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohol s may al so be used.
  • esters mentioned ab ove it i s preferred to use ethyl, i sopropyl, myri styl, cetyl or stearyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate,
  • alkyl myri states such as i sopropyl, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myri state, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, i sobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate or cetyl
  • the composition may al so compri se, as fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C6 - C30 and preferably C 12 - C22 fatty acids .
  • sugar means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which compri se at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides .
  • suitable sugars include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylo se and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.
  • the sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen especially from the group compri sing the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6 - C30, and preferably C 12 - C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conj ugated or unconj ugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
  • esters according to thi s variant may al so be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof. These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myri states, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, especially, oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate mixed esters .
  • esters or mixtures of esters of sugar and of fatty acid examples include :
  • sucrose palmitostearates formed from 73 % monoester and 27% diester and triester, from 61 % monoester and 39% diester, tri ester and tetraester, from 52%) monoester and 48%> diester, triester and tetraester, from 45%) monoester and 55% diester, triester and tetraester, from 39% monoester and 61 %> diester, triester and tetraester, and sucrose monolaurate;
  • Ryoto Sugar Esters for example referenced B 370 and corresponding to sucrose b ehenate formed from 20% monoester and 80% di-triester-polyester;
  • sucrose mono-dipalmito-stearate sold by the company
  • the fatty acids may be chosen from acids of formula RCOOH, in which R i s a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched radical preferably compri sing from 7 to 39 carb on atoms.
  • R i s a C7 - C29 alkyl or C7 - C 29 alkenyl group and better still a C 12-C24 alkyl or C 12-C24 alkenyl group .
  • R may b e sub stituted with one or more hydroxyl group s and/or one or more carboxyl groups .
  • the fatty acid may be chosen in particular from lauric acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid, linoleic acid, myri stic acid and stearic acid.
  • the fatty acid In order to b e considered as a fatty acid, the fatty acid must not be in soap form, i . e. it must not be salified.
  • the additional non-silicone solid fatty sub stance(s) are optionally present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0. 1 % to 30%, preferably in an amount ranging from 0.2% to 20%, and even more preferentially in an amount ranging from 0.5 % to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may al so comprise one or more silicones .
  • the silicone(s) that may be present in the composition according to the invention are in particul ar polyorganosiloxanes that may be in the form of aqueous solutions, i . e . di ssolved, or optionally in the form of dispersions or microdispersions, or of aqueous emul sions .
  • the polyorganosiloxanes may al so be in the form of oil s, waxes, resins or gums .
  • Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll ' s Chemistry and Technology of Silicones ( 1968), Academic Press.
  • the silicone(s) may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • the silicones are more particularly chosen from those with a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:
  • cyclic silicones compri sing from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms.
  • linear volatile silicones containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5 x 10 "6 m 2 /s at 25°C.
  • An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold especially under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp.27-32, Todd & Byers Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics .
  • Non-volatile silicones and more particularly polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, and polyorganosiloxanes modified with organofunctional groups, and mixtures thereof, are preferably used.
  • silicones are more particularly chosen from polyalkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups (Dimethicone according to the CTFA name) having a viscosity of from 5xl0 "6 to 2.5 m 2 /s at 25°C and preferably lxlO "5 to 1 m 2 /s.
  • the viscosity of the silicones is measured, for example, at 25°C according to standard ASTM 445 Appendix C.
  • polyalkylsiloxanes mention may be made, in a non-limiting manner, of the following commercial products: - the Silbione oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the Mirasil oils sold by Rhone-Poulenc, for instance the oil 70047 V 500 000;
  • oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning such as, more particularly, DC200 with a viscosity of 60000 cSt (centistokes);
  • the polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from linear and/or branched polydimethylmethylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyldiphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity of from lxlO "5 to 5xl0 "2 m 2 /s at 25°C.
  • silicones of the PN and PH series from Bayer such as the products PN1000 and PH1000; - certain oil s of the SF series from General Electric, such as SF 1023 , SF 1 1 54, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
  • the silicone gums that may be present in the composition according to the invention are especially polydiorganosiloxanes having high number-average molecular masses of b etween 200 000 and 1 000 000, used alone or as a mixture in a solvent.
  • This solvent can be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethyl siloxane (PDMS) oil s, polyphenylmethyl siloxane (PPMS) oil s, i soparaffins, polyi sobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane and tridecane, or mixtures thereof.
  • Products that may be used more particularly are the following mixtures :
  • a polydimethyl siloxane gum with a cyclic silicone such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from the company General Electric
  • thi s product being an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number-average molecular weight of 500 000, di ssolved in the oil SF 1202 Silicone Fluid corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane
  • - mixtures of two PDMS s with different vi scosities and more particularly of a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the product SF 1236 from the company General Electric.
  • the product SF 1236 is a mixture of a gum SE 30 defined above with a vi scosity of 20 m 2 /s and of an oil SF 96 with a vi scosity of 5 x 10 "6 m 2 /s .
  • Thi s product preferably compri ses 1 5% of gum SE 30 and 85% of an oil SF 96.
  • the organopolysiloxane resins that may be present in the composition according to the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the following units : R2 S 1O2/2 , R 3 Si0 1 / 2 , RS 1 O3 /2 and S 1 O4/2 in which R represents a hydrocarbon group containing 1 to 16 carbon atoms or a phenyl group .
  • R represents a hydrocarbon group containing 1 to 16 carbon atoms or a phenyl group .
  • R denotes a C 1 -C 4 lower alkyl radical, more particularly methyl, or a phenyl radical .
  • organomodified silicones that may be present in the composition according to the invention are silicones as defined above and compri sing in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based radical.
  • organomodifi ed silicones mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes compri sing :
  • C6 - C24 alkyl groups such as the oxyethylenated and oxypropylenated poly(methyllauryl/methyl siloxane) sold under the name Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid by the company Dow Corning (INCI : Lauryl PEG/PPG- 1 8/ 1 8 methicone), the products known as dimethicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the oil s Silwet L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 71 1 by the company Union Carbide, and the (C i 2)alkylmethicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Q2 5200;
  • C6 - C24 alkyl groups such as the oxyethylenated and oxypropylenated poly(methyllauryl/methyl siloxane) sold under the name Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid by the company Dow Corning (INCI : Lauryl PEG/PPG- 1 8/ 1
  • Silicone Copolymer F755 by SWS Silicones and Abil Wax 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company Goldschmidt;
  • organomodified silicones mention may al so be made of amino silicones.
  • amino silicone means any polyamino siloxane, i . e. any polysiloxane compri sing at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function or a quaternary ammonium group .
  • amino silicone(s) used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention are chosen from:
  • T is a hydrogen atom or a phenyl, hydroxyl (-OH) or C i -C 8 alkyl radical, and preferably methyl, or a C i -C 8 alkoxy, preferably methoxy,
  • a denotes the number 0 or an integer from 1 to 3 , and preferably 0,
  • b denotes 0 or 1 , and in particular 1 ,
  • n and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) can range especially from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 1 50, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10;
  • R 1 i a monovalent radi cal of formul a -C q H 2 q L in which q i s a number from 2 to 8 and L i s an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the following groups :
  • R 2 denotes a hydrogen atom, a phenyl, a benzyl or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical, for example a C 1 -C 2 0 alkyl radical
  • Q " represents a halide ion, for instance fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.
  • amino silicones corresponding to the definition of formula (VI) are chosen from the compounds corresponding to formula (VII) b elow :
  • R, R' and R which may be identical or different, denote a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, preferably CH 3 ; a C 1 -C 4 alkoxy radical, preferably methoxy; or OH;
  • A represents a linear or branched, C 3 -C 8 and preferably C 3 -C 6 alkylene radical;
  • m and n are integers dependent on the molecular weight and whose sum is between 1 and 2000.
  • R, R' and R" which may be identical or different, represent a C 1 -C 4 alkyl or hydroxyl radical
  • A represents a C 3 alkylene radical
  • m and n are such that the weight- average molecular mass of the compound is between 5000 and 500000 approximately.
  • Compounds of this type are referred to in the CTFA dictionary as "amodimethicones" .
  • R, R' and R" which may be identical or different, represent a C 1 -C 4 alkoxy or hydroxyl radical, at least one of the radicals R or R" is an alkoxy radical and A represents a C 3 alkylene radical.
  • the hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio is preferably between 0.2/1 and 0.4/1 and advantageously equal to 0.3/1.
  • m and n are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound is between 2000 and 10 6 . More particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000.
  • R and R" which are different, represent a C 1 -C 4 alkoxy or hydroxyl radical, at least one of the radicals R or R" is an alkoxy radical, R' represents a methyl radical and A represents a C 3 alkylene radical.
  • the hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio is preferably between 1/0.8 and 1/1.1 and advantageously equal to 1/0.95.
  • m and n are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound is between 2000 and 200000. More particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000.
  • R and R" represent a hydroxyl radical
  • R' represents a methyl radical
  • A is a C4-C8 and preferably C 4 alkylene radical.
  • m and n are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound is between 2000 and 10 6 . More particularly, n is between 0 and 1999 and m is between 1 and 2000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 2000.
  • a product of this type is especially sold under the name DC 28299 by Dow Corning.
  • the molecular mass of these silicones is determined by gel permeation chromatography (ambient temperature, polystyrene standard; ⁇ styragem columns; eluent THF; flow rate 1 mm/m; 200 ⁇ of a solution containing 0.5% by weight of silicone in THF are injected, and detection is performed by refractometry and UV-metry).
  • a product corresponding to the definition of formula (VI) is in particular the polymer known in the CTFA dictionary (7 th edition, 1997) as "trimethylsilyl amodimethicone", corresponding to formula (VIII) below: (CH 3 ) 3 SiO
  • R J represents a Ci-Ci 8 monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical, and in particular a Ci-Ci 8 alkyl or C 2 -Ci 8 alkenyl radical, for example methyl;
  • R 4 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, especially a Ci-Ci 8 alkylene radical or a divalent Ci-Ci 8 , and for example Ci-C 8 , alkylenoxy radical;
  • Q " is a halide ion, in particular chloride
  • r represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8; s represents a mean statistical value from 20 to 200 and in particular from 20 to 50.
  • a compound falling within this class is the product sold by the company Union Carbide under the name Ucar Silicone ALE 56.
  • R-7 which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Cis alkyl radical, a C 2 -Ci 8 alkenyl radical or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl;
  • R 6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, especially a C 1 -C 18 alkylene radical or a divalent Ci-Cis, and for example Ci-C 8 , alkylenoxy radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond;
  • R 8 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Ci 8 alkyl radical, a C 2 -Ci 8 alkenyl radical or a radical -R6-NHCOR7;
  • X " is an anion such as a halide ion, especially chloride, or an organic acid salt (acetate, etc.);
  • r represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to 100;
  • R 2 , R 3 and R 4 which may be identical or different, denote a C 1 -C4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group,
  • R 5 denotes a C 1 -C4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group
  • - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5
  • - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5
  • x is chosen such that the amine number is between 0.01 and 1 meq/g.
  • the silicone(s) that are particularly preferred are polysiloxanes containing amine groups such as the silicones of formula (VII) or the silicones of formula (VIII).
  • one particularly advantageous embodiment involves their combined use with cationic and/or nonionic surfactants.
  • R 5 denotes C14-C 22 alkenyl and/or alkyl radicals derived from tallow fatty acids, and known under the CTFA name "tallowtrimonium chloride", in combination with a nonionic surfactant of formula:
  • Use may also be made, for example, of the product sold under the name Cationic Emulsion DC 939 by the company Dow Corning, which comprises, besides amodimethicone, a cationic surfactant which is trimethylcetylammonium chloride and a nonionic surfactant of formula: C 13 H 27 -(OC 2 H 4 ) 12 -OH, known under the CTFA name "trideceth-12".
  • Another commercial product that may be used according to the invention is the product sold under the name Dow Corning Q27224 by the company Dow Corning, comprising, in combination, the trimethylsilyl amodimethicone of formula (C) described above, a nonionic surfactant of formula: C 8 H 17 -C 6 H 4 -(OCH 2 CH 2 ) 40 OH, known under the CTFA name "octoxynol-40", a second nonionic surfactant of formula: Ci 2 H 2 5-(OCH 2 -CH 2 )6-OH, known under the CTFA name "isolaureth-6", and propylene glycol.
  • Dow Corning Q27224 by the company Dow Corning
  • silicones that may be present in the composition according to the invention, it is preferred to choose the silicone(s) from among non-volatile silicones and more particularly polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums, polyorganosiloxanes modified with organofunctional groups chosen from amino silicones, and silicones comprising polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups, and also mixtures thereof.
  • the silicone(s) that may be used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention are chosen from amino silicones.
  • the silicone(s) that may be used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight and better still in a content ranging from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention is free of silicones.
  • composition according to the present invention may al so compri se one or more additional surfactants chosen from anioni c, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants .
  • anionic surfactant means a surfactant compri sing, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups.
  • anioni c groups are preferably chosen from C0 2 H, C0 2 " , S0 3 H, S O 3 " , O S O 3 H, O S O3 " , H 2 P0 3 , HPO3 " , P0 3 2 " , H 2 P0 2 , HP0 2 , HP0 2 " , P0 2 " , POH and PO " group s.
  • anionic surfactants that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylarylpolyether sulfates, monoglyceri de sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, a-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkylether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfo succinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acyl sarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkyl sulfosuccinamates, acyli sethionates and N- acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters of polyglyco
  • These compounds may be oxyethylenated and then preferably compri se from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.
  • the salts of C 6 - 2 4 alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside- polycarboxylic acids may be selected from C 6 - 2 4 alkyl polyglycoside- citrates, C 6 - 2 4 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C 6 - 2 4 alkyl poly glycoside- sulfo succinates .
  • anionic surfactant(s) (ii) when they are in salt form, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, the ammonium salts, the amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts or the alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.
  • amino alcohol salts examples include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl- 1 -propanol salts, 2- amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
  • Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular sodium or magnesium salts, are preferably used.
  • anionic surfactants it is preferred, according to the invention, to use alkyl sulfate salts and alkyl ether sulfate salts and mixtures thereof.
  • the amount of the anionic surfactant(s) is preferably within the range from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably ranging from 4% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition does not contain any anionic surfactants.
  • nonionic surfactants that may be used in the compositions of the present invention are described, for example, in the Handbook of Surfactants by M.R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178. They are especially chosen from polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated alcohols, a-diols and (Ci_2o)alkylphenols, containing at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging especially from 2 to 50, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging especially from 2 to 30.
  • polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides containing on average 1 to 5, and in particular 1.5 to 4, ethoxy
  • the amount of the additional nonioni c surfactant(s) is preferably within the range from 0. 1 % to 30% by weight and better still from 0.2% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) that may be used in the present invention may especially be optionally quaternized, secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic group i s a linear or branched chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, the said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group .
  • Ra represents a C 10 - C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid
  • Ra-COOH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group,
  • Rb represents a ⁇ -hydroxyethyl group
  • Rc represents a carboxymethyl group
  • X' represents the group -CH 2 -COOH, CH 2 -COOZ', -CH 2 CH 2 - COOH, -CH 2 CH 2 -COOZ', or a hydrogen atom
  • Y * represents -COOH, -COOZ' or the group -CH 2 -CHOH- S0 3 H or -CH 2 -CHOH-S0 3 Z',
  • Z' represents an ion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine.
  • Ra' represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra'-COOH which is preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, or an alkyl group, especially a C 17 group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated C 17 group.
  • cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol ® C2M Concentrate.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above that are preferably used are (C 8-2 o alkyl)betaines and (C 8-2 o alkyl)amido(C6- 8 alkyl)betaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.
  • the amount of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) is preferably within the range from 0.1% to 20% by weight and better still from 0.2% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the compositions of the invention preferably compri se a cosmetically acceptable medium .
  • cosmetically acceptable medium means a medium that is compatible with keratin material s, especially keratin fibres such as the hair.
  • the cosmetically acceptable medium i s formed from water or from a mixture of water and one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents chosen from C 1 -C4 lower alcohol s, such as ethanol, i sopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol; polyol s such as glycerol, propylene glycol and polyethylene glycol s; and mixtures thereof.
  • C 1 -C4 lower alcohol s such as ethanol, i sopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol
  • polyol s such as glycerol, propylene glycol and polyethylene glycol s
  • composition according to the invention compri ses an amount of water which i s greater than or equal to 5 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably an amount of water greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of water in the composition according to the invention i s less than or equal to 95% and preferentially less than or equal to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the organic solvents may be present in a concentration ranging from 0. 1 % to 40% and better still from 1 % to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the pH of the compositions according to the invention generally ranges from 3 to 1 1 .
  • composition according to the invention may al so compri se one or more standard additives that are well known in the art, chosen from moi sturizers; emollients, plasticizers, permanent or temporary dyes such as natural or synthetic direct dyes (base or coupler) or mixtures thereof, fragrances, peptizers, preserving agents, active agents, ceramides or pseudoceramides; vitamins or provitamins; pH stabilizers, preserving agents; proteins, sequestrants; solubilizers; reducing agents or antioxidants; oxidizing agents; b asifying agents, acidifying agents, anticorrosion agents and non-thickening cationi c polymers, and mixtures thereof.
  • a person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional standard additives and the amount thereof such that they do not harm the properties of the compositions of the present invention.
  • compositions according to the invention are generally present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may be in the form of an emulsion. More specifically, it may be either in the form of an oil-in-water emul sion, with the continuous phase being the aqueous phase, or in the form of a water-in-oil emul sion, with the continuous phase being the fatty phase .
  • compositions in accordance with the invention may be used for conditioning keratin fibres, in particular the hair, for example as hair conditioners.
  • compositions of the invention are rinse-out or leave-in hair conditioners.
  • Another subj ect of the invention consi sts of the use of the cosmetic composition as described above for the cosmetic treatment, in particular the conditioning, of keratin fibres such as the hair.
  • Another subj ect of the present invention i s a cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres, such as the hair, which consi sts in applying a composition as described above to the said fibres, and preferably in rinsing it out after an optional leave-on time.
  • compositions described above may be used on any type of hair: light or dark hair, natural hair or hair that has undergone a cosmetic treatment such as permanent waving, dyeing, bleaching or relaxing.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention may be used on wet or dry hair.
  • the cosmeti c composition i applied to clean hair.
  • the leave-on time of the cosmetic composition on the hair may be between a few seconds and 30 minutes, preferably between 10 seconds and 1 5 minutes and even more preferentially between 1 minute and 10 minutes .
  • the application to the hair of the cosmetic composition according to the invention may be performed, for example, using a comb, a fine brush, a coarse brush or with the fingers .
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are rinse-out compositions .
  • the application of the composition is followed by drying at room temperature or at a temperature above 40°C .
  • the drying may be performed immediately after the application or after a leave-on time that may range from 1 minute to 30 minutes .
  • the hair is dried, in addition to using a supply of heat, with a flow of air.
  • Thi s flow of air during drying makes it possible to improve the individualization of the coating.
  • a mechanical action may be exerted on the locks, such as combing, brushing or by running the fingers through the hair.
  • the drying step of the process of the invention may be performed with a hood, a hair dryer, a straightening iron, a Climazon, etc.
  • the drying temperature i s between 40 and 1 10° and preferably between 50 and 90° .
  • the drying temperature i is between 1 10 and 220° and preferably between 130 and 200° .
  • Example 1 a. Compositions
  • composition 1 according to the invention and a comparative composition 2 were prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below, the amounts of which are expressed as weight percentages of active material relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • sensitized hair means hair that has undergone prior chemical or physical treatments . 6 to 10 g of each of these compositions, as a function of the length of the hair, were applied to each half-head. After application, the hair was rinsed, combed and then dried by blow-drying or in the open air. c. Evaluation of the stability and of the cosmetic performance
  • composition 1 according to the invention and comparative composition 2.
  • composition 1 has a creamy, white, glo ssy, uniform appearance .
  • Composition 1 i s stable in particular for 2 months at 45 °C .
  • Cosmetic performance The cosmetic performance results are collated in the table below :
  • composition 1 comparative according to the composition 2 invention
  • Fineness (sensation ++ + of having fine hair)
  • hair treated with cosmetic composition 1 according to the invention i s smoother, more supple and finer than hair treated with comparative cosmetic composition 2.
  • the hair dries more quickly .
  • hair treated with cosmetic composition 1 according to the invention i s smoother, shinier, lighter and finer and has a silkier feel than hair treated with comparative cosmetic composition 2.
  • composition 1 according to the invention makes the hair feel appreciably fine.
  • d Evaluation of the control of the volume of the hair
  • the volume of the locks was then evaluated.
  • composition 1 affords greater volume control than in the case of the locks treated with composition 2; in particular, a decrease in frizziness i s ob served with composition 1 according to the invention.
  • Example 2 a. Compositions
  • composition 1 according to the invention as describ ed above was compared with a comparative composition 3 whi ch was prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below, the amounts of which are expressed as weight percentages of active material relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwi se indicated.
  • composition 1 according to the invention evaluated the stability and the cosmetic effects afforded by composition 1 according to the invention and comparative composition 3 .
  • hair treated with cosmetic composition 1 according to the invention i s smoother, more supple and finer (sensation of having fine hair) than hair treated with comparative cosmetic composition 3 .
  • hair treated with cosmetic composition 1 according to the invention i s smoother and finer than hair treated with comparative composition 3 .
  • Comparative composition 4 was prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below, the amounts of which are expressed as weight percentages of active material relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwi se indicated.
  • Comparative Example 4 a. Composition
  • Comparative composition 5 was prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below, the amounts of which are expressed as weight percentages of active material relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwi se indicated.
  • comparative composition 5 i s fluid and unstablerage.
  • compositions 6 to 9 applied according to the invention were prepared, the amounts of whi ch are expressed as weight percentages of active material relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwi se indicated.

Landscapes

  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention porte sur une composition cosmétique comprenant au moins un sel de calcium, au moins un alcool gras, au moins un tensioactif cationique et au moins un épaississant. De façon spécifique, la présente invention porte sur une composition cosmétique de préférence pour le traitement de fibres de kératine, en particulier de fibres de kératine humaines telles que les cheveux, comprenant au moins 1,5 % en poids d'un ou plusieurs sels de calcium, un ou plusieurs alcools gras, un ou plusieurs tensioactifs cationiques et un ou plusieurs épaississants non ioniques ou cationiques et une quantité d'eau qui est supérieure ou égale à 5 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition, et également sur l'utilisation de ladite composition cosmétique pour le soin du cheveu. La présente invention porte également sur un procédé cosmétique pour le traitement de fibres de kératine utilisant ladite composition cosmétique.
PCT/EP2011/066599 2010-09-24 2011-09-23 Composition cosmétique comprenant au moins un sel de calcium, au moins un alcool gras, au moins un tensioactif cationique et au moins un épaississant WO2012038534A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR1057710A FR2965172B1 (fr) 2010-09-24 2010-09-24 Composition cosmetique comprenant au moins un sel de calcium, au moins un alcool gras, au moins un tensioactif cationique et au moins un agent epaississant
FR1057710 2010-09-24
US38990810P 2010-10-05 2010-10-05
US61/389,908 2010-10-05

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2012038534A1 true WO2012038534A1 (fr) 2012-03-29

Family

ID=44131708

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/EP2011/066599 WO2012038534A1 (fr) 2010-09-24 2011-09-23 Composition cosmétique comprenant au moins un sel de calcium, au moins un alcool gras, au moins un tensioactif cationique et au moins un épaississant

Country Status (2)

Country Link
FR (1) FR2965172B1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2012038534A1 (fr)

Cited By (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20170151144A1 (en) * 2015-12-01 2017-06-01 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa High-performance hair treatment agents having anti-washout effect
EP3542781A4 (fr) * 2016-11-17 2020-06-03 Natura Cosméticos S.A. Préparation cosmétique à viscosité améliorée pour le traitement de fibres kératiniques, procédé d'augmentation de la viscosité d'une préparation cosmétique, utilisation d'ingrédients modificateurs de viscosité et méthode de traitement de fibres kératiniques
CN112543665A (zh) * 2018-08-30 2021-03-23 莱雅公司 具有高内油相的乳液
US11357714B2 (en) 2020-07-21 2022-06-14 Chembeau LLC Diester cosmetic formulations and uses thereof
US11826455B2 (en) 2018-08-30 2023-11-28 L'oreal Self-healing or self-repairing film forming composition
US12102699B2 (en) 2018-08-30 2024-10-01 L'oreal Foaming composition comprising oil

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR3039764B1 (fr) * 2015-08-03 2018-08-24 L'oreal Composition cosmetique comprenant un tensioactif cationique, un alcool gras, et deux polymeres non-ioniques

Citations (18)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3958581A (en) * 1972-05-17 1976-05-25 L'oreal Cosmetic composition containing a cationic polymer and divalent metal salt for strengthening the hair
US4137180A (en) 1976-07-02 1979-01-30 Lever Brothers Company Fabric treatment materials
US4185087A (en) 1977-12-28 1980-01-22 Union Carbide Corporation Hair conditioning compositions containing dialkylamino hydroxy organosilicon compounds and their derivatives
EP0095238A2 (fr) 1982-05-20 1983-11-30 Dow Corning Corporation Compositions utiles pour le conditionnement des cheveux
EP0186507A2 (fr) 1984-12-22 1986-07-02 Chisso Corporation Composés siloxane contenant un groupe carboxyle
US4874554A (en) 1986-07-10 1989-10-17 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien Quaternary ammonium compounds
EP0342834A2 (fr) 1988-05-17 1989-11-23 Dow Corning Limited Traitement de matériaux fibreux
US4957732A (en) 1988-12-29 1990-09-18 L'oreal Shaving composition for the skin based on polyorgano-siloxanes containing an acyloxyalkyl group and process for use
EP0395282A2 (fr) 1989-04-21 1990-10-31 Ciba Specialty Chemicals Water Treatments Limited Compositions aqueuses épaissies
EP0530974A1 (fr) 1991-08-05 1993-03-10 Unilever Plc Compositions pour le soin des cheveux
WO1995001152A1 (fr) 1993-06-30 1995-01-12 The Procter & Gamble Company Shampooings traitants contenant des cations metalliques polyvalents
JP2000191514A (ja) 1998-10-19 2000-07-11 Lion Corp 皮脂除去剤組成物
JP2002047119A (ja) 2000-08-03 2002-02-12 Wamiles Cosmetics Kk 化粧料
WO2002060408A1 (fr) * 2001-02-01 2002-08-08 The Procter & Gamble Company Compositions cosmetiques anhydres
WO2002060407A1 (fr) * 2001-02-01 2002-08-08 The Procter & Gamble Company Compositions cosmetiques auto-chauffantes anhydres, et plus particulierement compositions d'apres-shampooing anhydres
JP2003095891A (ja) 2001-09-27 2003-04-03 Kanebo Ltd ヘアリンス組成物
US20030103930A1 (en) * 2001-10-30 2003-06-05 The Procter & Gamble Company Anhydrous cosmetic compositions containing quaternary ammonium compounds
US20030108502A1 (en) * 2001-10-30 2003-06-12 The Procter & Gamble Company Anhydrous cosmetic compositions containing polyols

Patent Citations (18)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3958581A (en) * 1972-05-17 1976-05-25 L'oreal Cosmetic composition containing a cationic polymer and divalent metal salt for strengthening the hair
US4137180A (en) 1976-07-02 1979-01-30 Lever Brothers Company Fabric treatment materials
US4185087A (en) 1977-12-28 1980-01-22 Union Carbide Corporation Hair conditioning compositions containing dialkylamino hydroxy organosilicon compounds and their derivatives
EP0095238A2 (fr) 1982-05-20 1983-11-30 Dow Corning Corporation Compositions utiles pour le conditionnement des cheveux
EP0186507A2 (fr) 1984-12-22 1986-07-02 Chisso Corporation Composés siloxane contenant un groupe carboxyle
US4874554A (en) 1986-07-10 1989-10-17 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien Quaternary ammonium compounds
EP0342834A2 (fr) 1988-05-17 1989-11-23 Dow Corning Limited Traitement de matériaux fibreux
US4957732A (en) 1988-12-29 1990-09-18 L'oreal Shaving composition for the skin based on polyorgano-siloxanes containing an acyloxyalkyl group and process for use
EP0395282A2 (fr) 1989-04-21 1990-10-31 Ciba Specialty Chemicals Water Treatments Limited Compositions aqueuses épaissies
EP0530974A1 (fr) 1991-08-05 1993-03-10 Unilever Plc Compositions pour le soin des cheveux
WO1995001152A1 (fr) 1993-06-30 1995-01-12 The Procter & Gamble Company Shampooings traitants contenant des cations metalliques polyvalents
JP2000191514A (ja) 1998-10-19 2000-07-11 Lion Corp 皮脂除去剤組成物
JP2002047119A (ja) 2000-08-03 2002-02-12 Wamiles Cosmetics Kk 化粧料
WO2002060408A1 (fr) * 2001-02-01 2002-08-08 The Procter & Gamble Company Compositions cosmetiques anhydres
WO2002060407A1 (fr) * 2001-02-01 2002-08-08 The Procter & Gamble Company Compositions cosmetiques auto-chauffantes anhydres, et plus particulierement compositions d'apres-shampooing anhydres
JP2003095891A (ja) 2001-09-27 2003-04-03 Kanebo Ltd ヘアリンス組成物
US20030103930A1 (en) * 2001-10-30 2003-06-05 The Procter & Gamble Company Anhydrous cosmetic compositions containing quaternary ammonium compounds
US20030108502A1 (en) * 2001-10-30 2003-06-12 The Procter & Gamble Company Anhydrous cosmetic compositions containing polyols

Non-Patent Citations (9)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
"CTFA dictionary(7th edition,", 1997, CTFA
"KIRK-OTHMER'S ENCYCLOPEDIA OF CHEMICAL TECHNOLOGY, Third Edition,", vol. 15, pages: 439 - 458
"Kirk-Othmer's Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Third Edition,", vol. 3, 1982, pages: 896 - 900
E.A. MACGREGOR, C.T. GREENWOOD: "Polymers in Nature", 1980, JOHN WILEY & SONS, pages: 240 - 328
G. FONNUM, J. BAKKE, FK. HANSEN, COLLOID POLYM. SCI., vol. 271, 1993, pages 380 - 389
M.R. PORTER: "Handbook of Surfactants", 1991, BLACKIE & SON, pages: 116 - 178
ROY L. WHISTLER: "Industrial Gums - Polysaccharides and their Derivatives, Second Edition,", ACADEMIC PRESS INC.
TODD, BYERS: "Cosmetics and Toiletries", VOLATILE SILICONE FLUIDS FOR COSMETICS, vol. 91, January 1976 (1976-01-01), pages 27 - 32
WALTER: "Noll's s Chemistry and Technology of Silicones", 1968, ACADEMIC PRESS

Cited By (10)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20170151144A1 (en) * 2015-12-01 2017-06-01 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa High-performance hair treatment agents having anti-washout effect
EP3542781A4 (fr) * 2016-11-17 2020-06-03 Natura Cosméticos S.A. Préparation cosmétique à viscosité améliorée pour le traitement de fibres kératiniques, procédé d'augmentation de la viscosité d'une préparation cosmétique, utilisation d'ingrédients modificateurs de viscosité et méthode de traitement de fibres kératiniques
CN112543665A (zh) * 2018-08-30 2021-03-23 莱雅公司 具有高内油相的乳液
CN112543665B (zh) * 2018-08-30 2023-10-20 莱雅公司 具有高内油相的乳液
US11826455B2 (en) 2018-08-30 2023-11-28 L'oreal Self-healing or self-repairing film forming composition
US11833234B2 (en) 2018-08-30 2023-12-05 L'oreal Emulsions with a high internal oil phase
US12102699B2 (en) 2018-08-30 2024-10-01 L'oreal Foaming composition comprising oil
US11357714B2 (en) 2020-07-21 2022-06-14 Chembeau LLC Diester cosmetic formulations and uses thereof
US11491092B2 (en) 2020-07-21 2022-11-08 Chembeau LLC Hair treatment formulations and uses thereof
US11801211B2 (en) 2020-07-21 2023-10-31 Chembeau LLC Hair treatment formulations and uses thereof

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
FR2965172A1 (fr) 2012-03-30
FR2965172B1 (fr) 2013-04-12

Similar Documents

Publication Publication Date Title
EP2632425B1 (fr) Composition cosmétique comprenant un alcoxysilane à chaîne grasse, un tensioactif anionique et un tensioactif non ionique, amphotère ou zwittérionique
EP2632424B1 (fr) Composition cosmétique comprenant un alcoxysilane à chaîne grasse et un tensioactif cationique ou non ionique
EP2713999B1 (fr) Composition comprenant un alcoxysilane, un ester gras et une silicone, et son utilisation en cosmétique
EP2618801B2 (fr) Composition cosmétique comportant au moins un sel hygroscopique, un éther de polyol aromatique et un diol, et procédé de traitement cosmétique
WO2012055805A1 (fr) Composition cosmétique comprenant un alcoxysilane à chaîne grasse et agent cosmétique siliceux
WO2012038534A1 (fr) Composition cosmétique comprenant au moins un sel de calcium, au moins un alcool gras, au moins un tensioactif cationique et au moins un épaississant
JP7055133B2 (ja) チオール系化合物を含有する毛髪化粧用組成物、並びに毛髪をクレンジング及び処置するための方法
EP2632423A1 (fr) Composition cosmétique comprenant un ou plusieurs alcoxysilanes à chaîne grasse et un ou plusieurs corps gras non siliceux
EP3030324B1 (fr) Composition comportant une silicone aminée, un tensioactif cationique, un polymère associatif et un agent épaississant
WO2012175681A2 (fr) Composition cosmétique comprenant au moins un composé organosilicium et au moins un polymère amphotère spécifique
US8905049B2 (en) Process for treating keratin fibres using a non-detergent cosmetic composition comprising at least one calcium salt
EP3481507B1 (fr) Composition cosmétique comprenant une combinaison particulière de tensioactifs, un silicone, un polymère cationique, un alcool gras et une argile
US11147758B2 (en) Cosmetic composition comprising non-amino polyalkylsiloxanes, oxyethylenated polymers and fatty alcohols
WO2012038538A1 (fr) Composition cosmétique comprenant au moins un ester d'ammonium quaternaire et au moins un sel soluble de métaux divalents et procédé utilisant ladite composition
WO2003092637A1 (fr) Apres-shampooings ameliores contenant un melange a base de silicone
WO2023232770A1 (fr) Méthode de traitement capillaire pour limiter la teneur en calcium des cheveux
WO2023232788A1 (fr) Procédé de traitement cosmétique des cheveux, comprenant une application multiple d'une composition comprenant des acides aminés et des acides hydroxycarboxyliques spécifiques
WO2023232842A1 (fr) Composition cosmétique comprenant des acides aminés, des acides (poly)carboxyliques hydroxylés et des polymères associatifs, et procédés de traitement cosmétique et utilisation
WO2023232773A1 (fr) Procédé de traitement cosmétique des cheveux, comprenant une étape de lavage, une étape d'application d'une composition cosmétique comprenant des acides aminés et des acides (poly)carboxyliques hydroxylés, puis une étape de conditionnement
WO2023232768A1 (fr) Procédé de traitement capillaire comprenant l'application d'une composition comprenant des acides aminés et des acides (poly)carboxyliques hydroxylés, suivie du lavage des cheveux, et utilisation en tant que pré-shampooing
WO2023006702A1 (fr) Composition comprenant de la cystéine, un triglycéride d'acide gras particulier et un agent réducteur supplémentaire
WO2013160422A2 (fr) Composition cosmétique comprenant un silane à chaîne grasse, système de stabilisation particulier et procédé associé

Legal Events

Date Code Title Description
121 Ep: the epo has been informed by wipo that ep was designated in this application

Ref document number: 11763903

Country of ref document: EP

Kind code of ref document: A1

NENP Non-entry into the national phase

Ref country code: DE

122 Ep: pct application non-entry in european phase

Ref document number: 11763903

Country of ref document: EP

Kind code of ref document: A1