EP1562534A1 - Preparation cosmetique contenant un constituant cireux, un agent filmogene et un constituant gelifiant - Google Patents

Preparation cosmetique contenant un constituant cireux, un agent filmogene et un constituant gelifiant

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Publication number
EP1562534A1
EP1562534A1 EP03778315A EP03778315A EP1562534A1 EP 1562534 A1 EP1562534 A1 EP 1562534A1 EP 03778315 A EP03778315 A EP 03778315A EP 03778315 A EP03778315 A EP 03778315A EP 1562534 A1 EP1562534 A1 EP 1562534A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
preparation according
cosmetic preparation
gel
cosmetic
film
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
EP03778315A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
EP1562534B1 (fr
Inventor
Maike PÄTZER
Azra Swistowski
Christina Zech
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Schwan Stabilo Cosmetics GmbH and Co KG
Original Assignee
Schwan Stabilo Schwanhausser GmbH and Co KG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Schwan Stabilo Schwanhausser GmbH and Co KG filed Critical Schwan Stabilo Schwanhausser GmbH and Co KG
Publication of EP1562534A1 publication Critical patent/EP1562534A1/fr
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP1562534B1 publication Critical patent/EP1562534B1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/042—Gels
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/732—Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/927—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of insects, e.g. shellac
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/10—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/52—Stabilizers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a cosmetic preparation, in particular a preparation for coloring and shaping keratinous material, as well as a method for its production and its use.
  • compositions that are applied to eyelashes should on the one hand color the eyelashes well, but not on the surroundings. They should adhere well to the eyelashes, but should also be easy to remove. They should be easy to apply, give the eyelashes a beautiful shape and keep this shape even after drying. Furthermore, the compositions should be so thin that they are easy to apply, but on the other hand 5 dry quickly so that the mass is not smeared. In addition, the products should be so stable that they can be stored under ambient conditions for a long time.
  • US Pat. No. 6,210,692 describes cosmetic emulsions which are suitable, inter alia, as mascara and which are composed of an aqueous phase and a fat phase which, for stabilization, have two different binders, namely a hydrophilic thickener and contain a polysaccharide ether, the use of such thickeners which form gels with the aqueous phase should be avoided. These emulsions are said to be particularly well suited to care for and treat dry and sensitive skin.
  • US Pat. No. 6,325,994 discloses a cosmetic composition which is particularly suitable as a mascara, which consists of a lipophilic phase with fat and wax, and a lipophilic polymer, the lipophilic polymer being a special acrylate-methacrylate copolymer.
  • the composition can also be in the form of an emulsion with an aqueous phase.
  • the composition can also contain conventional additives such as dyes, pigments and fillers. Although this composition is said to be water-resistant and very durable, it is not yet satisfactory in every respect.
  • the literature describes many other similar compositions which usually contain waxes, oils, binders and colorants and which can also be in the form of oil-in-water emulsions.
  • the known compositions have at least one of the following disadvantages. Many of the known emulsions are not stable enough to be processed when heated. However, since heat treatment is necessary for cosmetic compositions, this requires special treatment steps which are complex.
  • compositions that adhere well to keratinous material are often difficult to remove from them.
  • waterproof compositions can no longer be removed by aqueous preparations.
  • a major problem that occurs particularly with mascaras is that particles migrate from the composition and either settle on the skin, which results in unsightly discoloration, or, what is more serious, get into the eye and discolor the lenses of lens wearers and thus render them unusable.
  • the inventors of the present application have therefore set themselves the task of developing a product that is simple to manufacture and can be produced safely and reproducibly without special machinery; into which pigments can be easily incorporated and remain stable in them; that is stable even at higher temperatures and can be heated without separation or decomposition; which has such a viscosity at elevated temperature that it is easy to fill; that is easy to apply, long-lasting, that can lengthen eyelashes, give volume to eyelashes, does not transfer to eyelid surfaces, is water and tear-resistant, does not crumble after drying and can be easily removed.
  • a cosmetic preparation which is in the form of an O / W emulsion and, in addition to the usual cosmetic ingredients, has a wax component, a film former and a gel component, the gel component containing at least one swollen hydrocolloid.
  • a swollen hydrocolloid can give the preparation structure and can also bind colorants and pigments in such a way that they can no longer migrate out of the composition, so that the applied dried composition does not stain even when in contact with water.
  • the swollen hydrocolloid stabilizes the structure of the preparation in a solid and liquid state so that no segregation occurs even at a higher temperature. This has the advantage that it can be heated without problems and filled when heated.
  • the preparation of the preparation according to the invention is simple and can be carried out easily and safely using the customary equipment available.
  • the cosmetic preparation is in particular intended to be applied to keratinous material, with eyelashes, eyebrows, hair and hairpieces being considered in particular.
  • the preparation according to the invention is particularly suitable as a mascara.
  • the most important components of the preparation according to the invention are, in addition to the water forming the continuous phase of the emulsion, a wax component, a film-forming system and at least one gel component.
  • the wax component consists of at least one wax and preferably additionally at least one oil and / or fat, which can each be of vegetable, animal, mineral or synthetic origin.
  • at least one emulsifier and, if appropriate, at least one coemulsifier may also be present in order to facilitate the processing of the wax component into an emulsion.
  • the wax component can additionally contain a vinylpyrrolidone copolymer.
  • the wax component gives the mass consistency and makes the composition waterproof.
  • the wax component can be made up of fat, oil and wax-like substances which can be liquid, pasty or solid at room temperature.
  • a combination of at least one wax and at least one oil is preferably used to set the optimal consistency.
  • At least one wax that is solid at room temperature.
  • Such waxes with a dropping point of 50 to 200 ° C. are particularly preferred. Waxes with a dropping point below 50 ° C can create storage problems and waxes with a dropping point above 200 ° C are sometimes difficult to process.
  • the waxes usually used in cosmetics are suitable for the wax component used according to the invention, in particular vegetable waxes, such as carnauba and candelilla waxes, ouricurri waxes, Japan. waxes, cotton wax, rice wax, flower waxes, hydrogenated jojoba oil; animal waxes such as beeswaxes and modified beeswaxes, including Gera Bellina, lanolin waxes and insect waxes; mineral waxes, such as paraffin waxes, microcrystalline waxes, montan waxes and ozokerites, as well as synthetic waxes, such as Fischer-Tropsch waxes, wax-polymer hybrids, polyethylene waxes, silicone waxes and diacetic acid diolylester,fuginic acid dibehenyl esters, behenyl oleate, cetyl palmitate and mixtures of all listed waxes. Animal waxes and synthetic waxes, and in particular their mixtures, are particularly preferably used.
  • At least one fat or oil is contained in the wax component to adjust the viscosity of the mass and to give the mass suppleness.
  • Both animal and vegetable fats and oils can be considered for this, which can also be used in a hydrogenated or modified state.
  • suitable fats and oils are rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, sesame oil, peanut oil, safflower oil, coconut oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, castor oil, hydrogenated castor oil, beef tallow, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isobutyl stearate, isostearyl oil stearate, iso stearyl oil stearate, iso stearyl oil stearate, and isostearyl oil stearate, iso stearyl oil stearate, iso stearyl oil stearate, iso stearyl oil stearate, iso stearyl oil stearic acid, and is
  • the wax component contains volatile constituents, in particular synthetic esters, silicone oils, dimethicones and cyclomethicones and isoparaffins in a concentration of up to 20%.
  • mixtures of waxes, fats and oils are preferably used, the substances selected in each case being used in such amounts that the desired properties, such as texture and
  • the wax component can moreover have further constituents known per se to the person skilled in the art, which influence properties such as stability, viscosity, processability and durability.
  • Sugar derivatives may be included.
  • the wax component is preferably used in such a proportion that it forms 0 to 50%, preferably 15 to 30% of the finished composition, the percentage, like all the information in the description, unless otherwise stated, based on weight.
  • the proportion of the wax or waxes within the wax component is preferably between 20 and 100% and is particularly preferably between 70 and 95%.
  • the fat or oil is usually added in such a proportion that the consistency of the mass is in the desired range.
  • the proportion of fats and oils in the wax component is normally between 20 and 80%, depending on the materials used, with the lower range being preferred.
  • the wax component can also contain emulators and, if appropriate, additional co-emulsifiers. These promote emulsion formation and homogeneity and stabilize the emulsion formed.
  • the selection of these components is not critical, but they must have the properties required for cosmetic compositions, and in particular must not be irritating and non-toxic. All commonly used in cosmetics and known to the person skilled in the art can be used here.
  • Examples are anionic, cationic, nonionic emulsifiers and amphoteric surfactants, as well as polymeric surfactants, which can be built up, for example, from copolymers, block copolymers and graft polymers, silicone surfactants and polymeric silicone surfactants, silicone copolymers, PEG derivatives of natural fatty acids and betaines.
  • the emulsifiers and co-emulsifiers are added to the wax component in the usual amounts; if present, the preferred amount (based on the wax component) is between about 0.5 and 40%.
  • the optimal amount depends, among other things, on the type and amount of the wax component and the type of emulsifiers used and can easily be determined by routine experimentation. Particularly good results are obtained with a proportion in the range from 10 to 25%.
  • the second essential component of the cosmetic preparation according to the invention is a film former system.
  • the film-forming system is usually formed by a polymer or a plurality of polymers which are present in dispersion or in solution in a medium, the polymer (s) during the removal of the medium, i.e. of the solvent or dispersion medium, form a film.
  • the solids content is usually between 10 and 70%, preferably between 20 and 40%.
  • each system of film former and medium also called solubilizing agent, solvent or dispersing agent
  • dispersion also includes solutions.
  • Systems are also included in which the film-forming polymer e.g. was solubilized by adding an acid or base.
  • the medium is preferably water.
  • Film-forming polymers are known per se and all commonly used for cosmetic preparations can be used.
  • the film-forming polymer can be a free-radical polycondensate
  • Film former systems which are particularly suitable for the preparation according to the invention contain anionic, cationic, nonionic and / or amphoteric polymers from the Class of polyurethanes, polyureas, polyesters and polyethers and their derivatives, PVP, polyamides, vinyl, acrylic and methacrylic polymers and copolymers, epoxy esters, silicone polymers and copolymers and hybrid polymers formed from the above-mentioned polymers.
  • the film former system is usually in the form of a dispersion, with aqueous systems being preferred.
  • Particularly preferred film formers are polyurethanes and polyurethane copolymers, such as polyurethane, e.g. Polyurethane-acrylic acid copolymers, polyurethane-polyvinylpyrrolidones, polyester polyurethanes, polyether polyurethanes, polyureas, polyester amides, polyesters with a fatty chain, polyamides, epoxy ester resins and / or polypropylene glycol-maleic ester copolymers. Many of these polymers are commercially available.
  • Another preferred group are acrylic polymers, acrylic / styrene copolymers, acrylic / inyl copolymers and acrylic / silicone copolymers as well as combinations of nitrocellulose and acrylic polymer.
  • Hybrid polymers can also be used according to the invention.
  • Polymers of natural origin which may also be present in modified form, such as polysaccharide and cellulose derivatives, are suitable.
  • a mixture of two or more of the enumerated polymers can also be used, the mixture being formed so that the desired properties are achieved.
  • the products approved by the CTFA are also particularly suitable, in particular polyurethane-1 to polyurethane-13.
  • the film former system is used in an amount that provides the desired effect. Amounts in the range of about 5 to 95% are suitable. In order to obtain particularly advantageous properties, for example in relation to durability and adhesion, amounts in the range from 5 to 60%, preferably 20 to 35%, are used, the amount depending on the individual polymer and the proportion and type of wax component and gel component , The stronger the structure formed by the gel component or the stronger the film formed, the smaller the amount of film-forming system can be. The optimum amount can easily be found by a person skilled in the art become. The amount given relates to the system used, ie the amount of film-forming polymers and solubilizing agents.
  • the inventively essential component of the cosmetic preparation is to obtain the advantageous properties ⁇ a gel component that must be included. It was found that the use of a swollen hydrocolloid as a gel component has a structure-forming effect and stabilizes the structure in such a way that the composition forms a permanent, waterproof film on keratinous material after drying and, together with the film-forming agent and the wax component, thus holds all the ingredients in the composition that they are not drained, emigrate or bleed.
  • the gel component therefore creates a material that is ideally suited to absorb and retain colorants and pigments and also other ingredients.
  • the gel component is formed from at least one swollen hydrocolloid, the swelling preferably taking place with water. It was found that a hydrocolloid in the swollen state spans the desired network, which in combination with the film-forming system can then absorb and stabilize other ingredients.
  • hydrocolloids are to be referred to as those natural and synthetic polymers which form gels or viscous, in particular highly viscous, solutions in solvents, in particular aqueous systems. Examples are in particular celluloses and cellulose derivatives, starch and starch derivatives, alginates, carageenes, pectins, tragacanth and gums as well as polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinyl pyrrolidone and also dextran.
  • these hydrocolloids give the preparation according to the invention structure, stability and volume in the swollen state.
  • the use of the swollen A hydrocolloid can even cause the volume of the preparation to decrease little or not after drying.
  • the preparation according to the invention makes the eyelashes plump and longer, even after drying, and enhances the aesthetic impression.
  • hydrocolloid it is therefore essential to use the hydrocolloid in the swollen state for the preparation of the preparation according to the invention and not to let it swell in the preparation.
  • Particularly good properties are achieved if the hydrocolloid is swollen in heated water, especially in water at a temperature of 40 to 100 ° C.
  • the hydrocolloid is mixed with the water, e.g. with stirring, and then preferably allowed to cool to at least about 40 ° C., particularly preferably to room temperature, before further processing.
  • the swelling irreversibly changes the physical properties of the hydrocolloid, which provides the desired structure.
  • the pre-swollen hydrocolloid thus obtained is stable and storable and can therefore also be used for some time, e.g. can be kept for a few hours or even longer periods.
  • a hydrocolloid with a water binding capacity of 100 to 600%, preferably 200 to 500% and in particular 350 to 430% is therefore preferably used.
  • the water binding capacity of the hydrocolloid can be determined using methods known per se, e.g. with Karl Fischer titration or dry residue determination.
  • Hydrocolloids are preferred, the swelling capacity of which is in a range from 250 to 500%, measured at 80 ° C.
  • the swelling capacity can in itself can be determined in a known manner, for example by heating the hydrocolloid in water and, after homogeneous swelling (ie without the formation of kiumpen), cooling to room temperature with stirring, decanting the water supernatant and determining the water taken up using the Karl Fischer method or on a dry scale.
  • modified starch which is therefore preferred.
  • suitable starches are vegetable starches, in particular cereal starches, such as wheat, corn and rice starches, rice starch in a modified form being particularly preferred.
  • starch or a starch derivative or derivatized or modified starch in particular rice starch, is used as the hydrocolloid.
  • Particularly advantageous properties can be obtained with starch of hydroxyalkyl or dimethylimidazolidinone.
  • the swollen hydrocolloid Due to its stability, the swollen hydrocolloid can be stored for a long time before it is processed further for the production of the cosmetic preparation.
  • a preservative can be added to the system of hydrocolloid and water. Preservatives for such systems are well known to those skilled in the art and those suitable for food and cosmetics can be used here.
  • a dispersing aid can also be added to the system.
  • a combination of preservative and dispersing aid has been found to synergistically increase the germicidal effect.
  • Suitable preservatives which may be mentioned are benzyl alcohol and the esters thereof, parabens and their salts, phenylethyl alcohol, IPBC, formaldehyde releasers such as diimidazolidinyl urea, organic aromatic acids, phenoxyethanol and others.
  • examples of dispersing aids are PEG derivatives, nonionic surfactants, block polymers, organic esters Multiple acids, soaps of polyvalent metal salts, amino acids or their esters, silicone acrylate copolymers and other known wetting agents.
  • Antioxidants such as tocopherol, NDGA, sesame oil, ⁇ -oryzanol, rosemary oil, BHT and other agents used for cosmetics can also be used to stabilize the preparation. If necessary, microbiological stability can be ensured by adding preservatives, as are common for cosmetics.
  • the proportion of the gel component (i.e. hydrocolloid in the swollen state) in the composition according to the invention can vary within a wide range.
  • a proportion of 3 to 50% is preferred, particularly preferably 3 to 20%.
  • This percentage refers to the weight of swollen hydrocolloid, i.e. Hydrocolloid including the amount of liquid absorbed, based on the composition.
  • the effect is no longer optimal at a proportion of 3% and at a proportion of more than 50% the viscosity and structure of the composition can be impaired.
  • the proportion of the hydrocolloid in the swollen gel component can also vary within wide limits depending on the type of hydrocolloid, and depending on the ability to swell e.g. 5 to 90%.
  • the gel component of the preparation according to the invention can further comprise a second gel of a natural polymer, preferably a hydrocolloid, in a mono- and / or polyhydric alcohol.
  • the second “alcoholic” gel serves to stabilize the structure and to influence the rheological properties. In addition, it can influence the drying properties of the preparation.
  • the alcoholic gel component is not absolutely necessary, but is present in preferred embodiments.
  • the polymer of the second gel can be identical to the hydrocolloid of the first gel, but is preferably different.
  • Cellulose derivatives which are soluble in water and alcohol or in mixtures of water and alcohol are preferably used for the second gel are, in particular carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose or hydroxypropyl cellulose, with hydroxypropyl cellulose being particularly preferred.
  • the cellulose derivative is dissolved or dispersed in the alcohol so that a gel forms.
  • a mixture of one or more monohydric alcohol (s) with a chain length of C 2 -C 4 and a polyhydric alcohol with a chain length between C 2 and C 6 and with at least two hydroxyl groups is preferably used.
  • Examples of suitable monohydric alcohols are ethanol, n-propanol, i-propanol, n-butanol, i-butanol, ethanol being preferred.
  • Examples of polyhydric alcohols are propanediols, such as 1,2-propanediol, dipropanediol, butanediols, such as 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, glycerol, diglycerol, triglycerol, diethylene glycols, amyl alcohol, hexanediols, such as 1,2-hexanediol, 1,3-hexanediol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, xylitol, mannitol and alditol.
  • the polyhydric alcohol 1, 2-propanediol or 1, 3-butanediol is preferred.
  • the cellulose derivative is preferably first slurried in the polyhydric alcohol and then the monohydric alcohol is added until the desired viscosity is reached. This forms a very thin gel which can then be mixed together with the other components of the preparation according to the invention.
  • an alcoholic gel is used in the preparation according to the invention, its amount depends on the desired viscosity and the drying properties. An amount of 0 to 10% (polymer + alcohols) has proven to be suitable. The proportion of the polymer is in a range from 0.5 to 20% of the gel. If the preparation dries very slowly, the proportion of alcoholic gel or the proportion of alcohol in the gel can be increased.
  • the preparation according to the invention can also contain other customary cosmetic ingredients which influence certain desired properties.
  • An important ingredient for most cosmetic products are colorants or pigments to create a desirable color. It has been found that the preparation according to the invention is suitable for this is to stabilize both organic colorants and pigments so that they are not leached out. All substances known for cosmetics can be used as pigments or colorants. The only requirement is that the substances are non-toxic and irritating.
  • the pigments are preferably used in micronized form. Examples of pigments are iron oxides, ultramarine, chrome oxide green, chrome oxide hydrate green, carbon black, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, barium sulfate, talc and kaolin.
  • organic colorants examples include lacquers such as aluminum, barium, calcium, potassium, strontium and zinc lacquers, carmine and other coloring substances well known to those skilled in the art. Pearlescent pigments may also be present.
  • the particulate ingredients are used in the proportion usually used for cosmetics, the amount being selected depending on the type of particle phase and the desired effect.
  • the proportion of the particulate ingredients is preferably in a range of up to 30%, particularly preferably 2 to 20%.
  • the preparation according to the invention can contain fillers and particulate substances which give the composition a desired structure. These fillers and particles are also stabilized by the preparation according to the invention, so that they do not settle. Examples are talc, kaolin, bentonite, hectorite, montmorillonite, cerium oxide, silicon dioxide, boron nitride, nylon powder, polyethylene powder, polypropylene powder, silk powder and their mixtures, polyvalent metal soaps, non-swellable starches, fruit fibers, natural and synthetic peeling agents, sand, bran products, stone meal, stone fruit powder Algae derivatives, thermoset, thermoplastic and elastomer flours and mixtures as well as hybrids of the listed components.
  • Plasticizers can also be added to make the preparation velvety and shiny.
  • these are polyhydric alcohols and their esters, such as glycerol, diglycerol, triglycerol, diethylene glycols, amyl alcohol, hexanediols, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, xylitol, mannitol and alditol.
  • preparation according to the invention When the preparation according to the invention is used as a mascara, those pigments and colorants are usually used which lead to the colors usually desired, namely black, blue, brown and gray. However, preparations of a different color can also be produced, e.g. dye the hair or eyelash tips in a different color than the rest of the hair or eyelash.
  • the coloring components i.e. Pigments and colorants do not necessarily have to be present in the preparation according to the invention.
  • An embodiment is also possible in which coloring and structuring constituents are separated and first the preparation according to the invention is applied to the keratinous material without coloring ingredients and then a formulation of the coloring agents or pigments is applied.
  • the pH of the preparation according to the invention should preferably be in the neutral to weakly basic range, since many of the film formers normally used in cosmetics can fail even at a weakly acidic pH. If necessary, the preparation therefore also contains basic agents and / or buffering agents for adjusting or buffering the pH, e.g. NaOH, amines and usual buffers.
  • the pH of the preparation is preferably adjusted so that it is in a range from 6.5 to 8.8, particularly preferably 6.8 to 7.5.
  • a preparation is thus made available which is in the form of an emulsion and combines particularly advantageous properties.
  • the preparation is easy to produce, leads to stable products, can be easily processed further because it is heat-stable and produces a film that adheres for a long time without releasing the ingredients contained therein.
  • the film makes the keratin fibers to which it is applied appear full and "curls" them beautifully and permanently.
  • the preparation can also be easily removed again by applying water, possibly with a wetting agent, which causes the film to swell, making it easy to remove again.
  • the special combination of wax component, film former and gel component forms a network or framework that permanently adheres to the keratin fiber, so that a homogeneous, voluminous, strongly adhering film is created.
  • Another object of the invention is a method for producing this preparation, as described in claim 23.
  • the aqueous gel component is prepared by swelling the hydrocolloid with water.
  • heated water which advantageously has a temperature between 40 ° C and 100 ° C, preferably about 65 to 90 ° C, is brought into contact with the hydrocolloid with stirring and then, if necessary, allowed to cool and swell.
  • a preservative and / or a dispersing aid can also be added to the mixture.
  • the swollen gel is stable and can be stored for long periods of time so that it does not have to be processed immediately.
  • the wax used for the wax component is optionally melted together with the fat and / or oil and preferably brought to a temperature in the range between 50 to 100 ° C., preferably 65 to 85 ° C.
  • the amount of water required to prepare the emulsion is preferably also heated and then mixed with the wax component.
  • the swollen aqueous hydrocolloid, optionally the alcoholic gel and the dispersion of the film former are then added to the resulting O / W emulsion. Mixing is carried out until a homogeneous dispersion or emulsion has formed.
  • the particulate constituents in particular pigments and fillers, can then optionally be mixed in, if appropriate with auxiliaries which improve the compatibility.
  • the mixture is then stirred until homogeneous and then cooled with stirring. If necessary, this mixture can be added either while it is still warm or, if it is a sensitive additive, during the cooling down the active ingredients and auxiliaries usually added cosmetically, such as perfumes, plasticizers, gloss agents, etc.
  • the preparation obtained is then filled into packaging containers. Since the preparation according to the invention is characterized by particular stability, it can also be filled in the heated state, with "cold stirring" not being necessary. This is advantageous on the one hand for hygienic reasons and on the other hand, since the flowability is generally better when warm.
  • a vinylpyrrolidone copolymer is used for this embodiment as a film former for the wax component.
  • the preparation can be produced easily, reproducibly and in large numbers. Since the preparation can be processed at elevated temperature due to its stability, there are advantages over known products in both hygienic and procedural terms.
  • the preparation according to the invention is particularly well suited for coating keratinous materials. It is therefore preferably used to dye and / or shape eyelashes, eyebrows, hair, hairpieces, whiskers and other keratin components.
  • the preparation according to the invention is particularly suitable as a mascara, since it adheres firmly to eyelashes, does not bleed, does not crumble and remains on the eyelash for a long time until it is removed again.
  • Another object of the invention is therefore the use of the preparation according to the invention for coloring and shaping ceramic material and in particular for the production of mascaras.
  • a mascara mass was produced with the following recipe (amounts in parts by weight, naming the components with INCI / CTFA names):
  • An emulsion was prepared from the specified ingredients as described above, which adhered long after application.
EP03778315A 2002-11-13 2003-11-11 Preparation cosmetique contenant un constituant cireux, un agent filmogene et un constituant gelifiant Expired - Lifetime EP1562534B1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE10252816A DE10252816B4 (de) 2002-11-13 2002-11-13 Kosmetische Zubereitung, sowie ein Verfahren zu ihrer Herstellung und ihre Verwendung
DE10252816 2002-11-13
PCT/EP2003/012595 WO2004043410A1 (fr) 2002-11-13 2003-11-11 Preparation cosmetique contenant un constituant cireux, un agent filmogene et un constituant gelifiant

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EP1562534A1 true EP1562534A1 (fr) 2005-08-17
EP1562534B1 EP1562534B1 (fr) 2010-09-22

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US (2) US20060051309A1 (fr)
EP (1) EP1562534B1 (fr)
JP (1) JP2006507320A (fr)
KR (1) KR100836418B1 (fr)
CN (1) CN1711066A (fr)
AT (1) ATE482003T1 (fr)
AU (1) AU2003285327A1 (fr)
BR (1) BR0316247B1 (fr)
CA (1) CA2505804A1 (fr)
DE (2) DE10252816B4 (fr)
MX (1) MXPA05005134A (fr)
WO (1) WO2004043410A1 (fr)

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CN1711066A (zh) 2005-12-21
DE10252816B4 (de) 2008-02-14
CA2505804A1 (fr) 2004-05-27
AU2003285327A1 (en) 2004-06-03
US20060051309A1 (en) 2006-03-09
BR0316247A (pt) 2005-10-11
WO2004043410A1 (fr) 2004-05-27
DE50313117D1 (de) 2010-11-04
JP2006507320A (ja) 2006-03-02
KR20050075010A (ko) 2005-07-19
KR100836418B1 (ko) 2008-06-09
BR0316247B1 (pt) 2014-02-04
ATE482003T1 (de) 2010-10-15
EP1562534B1 (fr) 2010-09-22
DE10252816A1 (de) 2004-06-03
US20090196843A1 (en) 2009-08-06
MXPA05005134A (es) 2005-08-19

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