EP1523899B1 - Equerre utilisée pour la fabrication de vêtements - Google Patents

Equerre utilisée pour la fabrication de vêtements Download PDF

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Publication number
EP1523899B1
EP1523899B1 EP04023323A EP04023323A EP1523899B1 EP 1523899 B1 EP1523899 B1 EP 1523899B1 EP 04023323 A EP04023323 A EP 04023323A EP 04023323 A EP04023323 A EP 04023323A EP 1523899 B1 EP1523899 B1 EP 1523899B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
triangular surface
triangular
template used
clothing material
gap
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
Application number
EP04023323A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
EP1523899A1 (fr
Inventor
Astrid Köhler
Isabelle Mojert
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
William Prym GmbH and Co KG
Original Assignee
William Prym GmbH and Co KG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by William Prym GmbH and Co KG filed Critical William Prym GmbH and Co KG
Publication of EP1523899A1 publication Critical patent/EP1523899A1/fr
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP1523899B1 publication Critical patent/EP1523899B1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
    • A41H3/002—Set squares or rulers for drafting patterns

Definitions

  • the invention is directed to a cutter ruler specified in the preamble of claim 1 Art.
  • Such a cutter ruler is from the DE 853 133 C known.
  • the hypotenuse of the triangular surface has a Fasson curve.
  • the slots are very narrow and therefore only allow use as a marker aid. They are not suitable for the use of cutting tools.
  • the CH 110 504 A shows a drawing angle for the preparation of technical drawings in the form of an isosceles triangle with a breakthrough. There are parallel grooves arranged with openings corresponding to the desired stroke lengths. The application of this ruler in tailoring is neither intended nor possible.
  • a ruler is known whose upper limit consist of a convex and concave curve. Slots of different lengths are provided in the area of the ruler for the determination of buttonholes, which accommodate marking aids and limit their use.
  • the invention has for its object to improve the mentioned in the preamble of claim 1 cutter ruler on. This is inventively achieved by the measures specified in claim 1, which have the following special significance.
  • the triangular breakthrough in the midst of the triangular surface not only facilitates handling, but can be used as defined normal hem allowance because of its defined position to the triangular-shaped catheters.
  • the roundings of the breakthrough have the function of serving as markings for curves of patch pockets.
  • the concave curved outer edge of the hypotenuse has a dual function. A first curve piece is used for a hip arch. A second curve piece of the hypotenuse on the other hand determines the waist or leg course in the blank. Because the two curve pieces sit at the hypotenuse edge, the use of cutting tools is possible.
  • the adjacent areas of the triangular surface outside the opening are free and serve to arrange rectilinear markings that run parallel to the one catheter. These markings define defined, mutually different hem allowances in the fabric blank. For a multiple use of Schneiderlineal invention is possible.
  • the tailor blade according to the invention consists of a triangular surface 10 with a right angle at the one triangle tip 15. It is a unequal limb triangle. This results in the triangular surface 10 has a long outer edge 12 on one of the catheters, a short outer edge 13 on the other catheter and finally a concave curved outer edge 14 on the hypotenuse of the triangular surface 10. At least one of the two katheten su outer edges 12, 13 is printed with a Length scale 16 or 17 provided. These length scales 16 and / or 17 have the function of a tape measure.
  • a triangular opening 18 is inserted in the middle of the triangular surface. Because of the bowing of the hypotenuse-side arcuate edge 14, the short catheter 13 opposite, a linear end edge 19, which starts at the third triangle tip 40 and preferably perpendicular to the long catheter 12 is formed. This end edge 19 is opposite to the short catheter 13.
  • the curved hypotenuse 14 is a standard curve for a hip arch or for a waist or a leg course od. Like ..
  • the cutter ruler according to the invention can simultaneously take on a wealth of other functions, which can be seen from the drawing.
  • At least one arcuate slot 20 is embedded in the middle of the triangular surface 10 and has a more curved shape than the arcuate outer edge 14.
  • the slot 20 serves to guide a cutting tool and / or a marking pin to be inserted therein.
  • the slot 20 thus functions as a blanking aid for another curve in the fabric blank, e.g. for the trouser step, for the arm ball or for the sleeve cutouts.
  • gap sections 24 to 27 have the same gap width 28. In each case, however, a different gap length 29.1 to 29.4 is provided. It is also advisable to align the gap portion substantially linearly with each other while orienting in the longitudinal direction of the strip-shaped end piece 21. These gap sections 24 to 27 are used to produce piping buttonholes of different sizes in the fabric blank.
  • the cutting rule according to the invention is provided with marking lines 31 to 33, which run parallel both with one another and with the catheter-side outer edge 13. They consist of several consecutive line sections 30, which are spaced from each other.
  • the first marker line 31 is spaced 2 cm apart, the second 32 spaced 3 cm, and finally the third 33 at a 4 cm distance from the catheter edge 13. It goes without saying that the marking lines could also be removed from the edge 13 in any other steps.
  • the marking lines 31 to 33 serve as seam allowances in the fabric cut to be processed.
  • the triangular surface 10 is provided with a plurality of circular cutouts 34 to 38, which have a mutually different diameter 39.1 to 39.5.
  • the circular cutouts 34 to 38 act as marking aids in the fabric blank.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
  • Perforating, Stamping-Out Or Severing By Means Other Than Cutting (AREA)
  • Tape Measures (AREA)

Claims (6)

  1. Equerre utilisée pour la fabrication de vêtements composée d'une surface triangulaire (10) à angle droit,
    avec au moins une fente (20) en forme d'arc, située au milieu de la surface triangulaire (10), servant au guidage d'un crayon de marquage,
    la fente (20) servant d'aide à la réalisation, pour une allure de courbe définie, à partir d'une découpe à effectuer, dans la pièce découpée en tissu,
    avec un bord extérieur (14), à courbure concave, au lieu de l'hypoténuse de la surface triangulaire (10),
    avec une règle graduée de longueur (16 ; 17) sur au moins l'un des deux côtés (12, 13) de l'angle droit de la surface triangulaire (10),
    et avec au moins un marquage (31 à 33) à forme linéaire, sur la surface triangulaire (10),
    les marquages (31 à 33) s'étendant tant parallèlement les uns aux autres qu'également par rapport à au moins l'un (13) des deux côtés de l'angle droit,
    caractérisée en ce qu'
    un passage (18) de forme triangulaire est disposé au milieu de la surface triangulaire (10), passage dont les bords intérieurs s'étendent parallèlement aux deux côtés de l'angle droit de la surface triangulaire (10), et les angles du passage (18) sont remplacés par des arrondis,
    en ce que le bord extérieur (14), à courbure concave, se trouvant sur l'hypoténuse, présente tant un premier morceau de courbe, pour la courbe des hanches, qu'également un deuxième morceau de courbe, pour l'allure de la taille ou de la jambe, dans la pièce découpée,
    et en ce que les marquages (31 à 33) rectilignes, s'étendant parallèlement à un côté de l'angle droit, déterminent dans la pièce découpée des surlongueurs d'ourlet définis, différents les uns des autres.
  2. Equerre selon la revendication 1, caractérisée en ce qu'un groupe (22) de fentes (23) parallèles est ménagé dans la surface triangulaire (10),
    les fentes (23) servant au marquage d'espacement pour des plis, des espacements entre boutons, ou analogue, dans la pièce découpée en tissu.
  3. Equerre selon la revendication 1 ou 2, caractérisée en ce que dans la surface triangulaire (10) sont ménagés plusieurs tronçons d'intervalles (24 à 27),
    qui, certes, présentent une largeur d'intervalle (28) coïncidant pratiquement, mais une longueur d'intervalle (29.1 à 29.4) différente entre eux,
    et en ce que les tronçons d'intervalles (24 à 27) servent à produire des boutonnières en passepoil, de taille différente, dans la pièce découpée en tissu.
  4. Equerre selon la revendication 3, caractérisée en ce que les tronçons d'intervalles (24 à 27) sont alignés de façon de façon pratiquement linéaire entre eux.
  5. Equerre selon l'une des revendications 1 à 4,
    caractérisée en ce que plusieurs découpes circulaires (34 à 38), de diamètres (39.1 à 39.5) différents sont ménagées dans la surface triangulaire (10),
    les découpes circulaires (34 à 38) servant d'aides au marquage dans la pièce découpée en tissu.
  6. Equerre selon l'une des revendications 1 à 5,
    caractérisée en ce que la surface triangulaire (10) forme un triangle à côtés non identiques et est munie d'une pièce d'extrémité (21) en forme de bande.
EP04023323A 2003-10-17 2004-09-30 Equerre utilisée pour la fabrication de vêtements Expired - Lifetime EP1523899B1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE20315972U DE20315972U1 (de) 2003-10-17 2003-10-17 Schneiderlineal für Stoffzuschnitte
DE20315972U 2003-10-17

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP1523899A1 EP1523899A1 (fr) 2005-04-20
EP1523899B1 true EP1523899B1 (fr) 2008-08-13

Family

ID=29762547

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP04023323A Expired - Lifetime EP1523899B1 (fr) 2003-10-17 2004-09-30 Equerre utilisée pour la fabrication de vêtements

Country Status (3)

Country Link
EP (1) EP1523899B1 (fr)
AT (1) ATE404080T1 (fr)
DE (2) DE20315972U1 (fr)

Families Citing this family (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2008106713A1 (fr) * 2007-03-02 2008-09-12 Kym Joanne Graham Aide à la couture et son procédé d'utilisation
ES2347858B1 (es) * 2008-07-04 2011-09-14 Araceli Acuña Cuevas Metodo aac de corte y confeccion basado en la utilizacion de una regla con un diseño especial.
CN107419443A (zh) * 2017-06-24 2017-12-01 平湖市龙跃制衣有限责任公司 一种包边装置及应用该包边装置的缝制工艺

Family Cites Families (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR429953A (fr) * 1911-05-19 1911-10-05 Gustave Edmond Gasquy équerre à dessin transparente
CH110504A (de) * 1924-06-07 1925-06-01 Rickert Hermann Punktierwinkel.
DE853133C (de) * 1951-01-31 1952-10-23 Fritz Fleig Vorrichtung zum Aufzeichnen von Linien auf Stoffen
US4524522A (en) * 1984-03-16 1985-06-25 Butterick Company, Inc. Fitting curve and ruler

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
DE502004007822D1 (de) 2008-09-25
DE20315972U1 (de) 2003-12-11
EP1523899A1 (fr) 2005-04-20
ATE404080T1 (de) 2008-08-15

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