WO2022233367A1 - Ensemble de patrons et marge de couture inhérente au patron - Google Patents

Ensemble de patrons et marge de couture inhérente au patron Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2022233367A1
WO2022233367A1 PCT/DE2022/100342 DE2022100342W WO2022233367A1 WO 2022233367 A1 WO2022233367 A1 WO 2022233367A1 DE 2022100342 W DE2022100342 W DE 2022100342W WO 2022233367 A1 WO2022233367 A1 WO 2022233367A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
orientation
pattern
cut
embossing
seam
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/DE2022/100342
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Konstanze Riede
Original Assignee
Konstanze Riede
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Priority claimed from DE202021102476.3U external-priority patent/DE202021102476U1/de
Priority claimed from DE102021111924.3A external-priority patent/DE102021111924B3/de
Application filed by Konstanze Riede filed Critical Konstanze Riede
Priority to EP22729431.1A priority Critical patent/EP4333665A1/fr
Publication of WO2022233367A1 publication Critical patent/WO2022233367A1/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
    • A41H3/08—Patterns on the cloth, e.g. printed
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05D—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBCLASSES D05B AND D05C, RELATING TO SEWING, EMBROIDERING AND TUFTING
    • D05D2305/00—Operations on the work before or after sewing
    • D05D2305/08—Cutting the workpiece

Definitions

  • the invention relates to cut parts with a seam allowance inherent in the cut part for producing a sewn product.
  • pattern pieces for the production of sewn products had corresponding seam allowances of a certain width - this meant that the cutting line of the pattern piece ran evenly parallel to the seam line and uniform pattern piece sides were created.
  • the sewer has no obvious clues from the pattern pieces as to which pattern piece is to be sewn to which other pattern piece, how and where.
  • This information must be read from separate instructions or from the pattern template, for example. Sewing instructions are sometimes misleading and often difficult to grasp, especially for beginners or hobby seamstresses. This leads to a great deal of time and also frustration in the production of sewn products. If a seam is sewn incorrectly, the entire sewing product can usually no longer be produced adequately and the seam has to be removed again at great expense. This process often leads to damaged areas in the material, which leads to unnecessary waste and, in case of doubt, to the abandonment of the project.
  • sewing instructions call for making small slits in the seam allowance (called “nips” or “gussets”) to mark specific points—for example, where a sleeve meets a shoulder seam. These provide the seamstress with selective orientation through the cut in the seam allowance placed according to the instructions; However, this is very limited due to the lack of distinguishability of the incisions, their poor visibility in the pattern part, their only selective character and their lack of meaningfulness without the associated sewing instructions.
  • Such snaps are also used in the industrial manufacture of sewing products. Here you can mark very different points - such as the height at which a hem should be turned up, a point where two seams meet or the top or bottom center of a facing and an outer fabric.
  • these snaps are usually designed as a simple incision or in a triangular shape, but they can also be set, for example, as a semicircle or square or - depending on the cutting program used - in some other shapes.
  • notches used in industrial production also always require additional instruction information, since they are used in very different ways and their interpretation is not possible on their own: a notch used in industrial production can therefore either point to another notch or to a seam line meet, simply mark a middle or indicate that a fold should be created at this point. Which of these is true depends on the creator of the template and how he/she uses the snaps.
  • paper patterns are mostly used, which are then transferred to tracing paper and then cut to the material be launched. It can also happen that the paper pattern is cut out and placed on the material.
  • the patterns usually also contain information about the grain. Which pattern parts have to be cut on which side with or without seam allowance or hem allowance and what width the seam or hem allowance must have on which pattern part on which side, the leisure sewer usually takes this information from separate sewing instructions. Depending on the amount of information to be taken into account, mistakes can often occur when cutting. For example, if the hobby seamstress cuts out a back part for a children's dress, it is usually the case that half the width of the back part is placed on a double-layered fabric that has been folded and cut.
  • the neckline has to be cut without a seam allowance because it will later be bound in a bias binding, the shoulders, sides and armholes are cut with a seam allowance of 1.5 cm, for example, and the bottom hem with a 5 cm seam allowance.
  • a seam allowance 1.5 cm, for example, and the bottom hem with a 5 cm seam allowance.
  • Some pattern templates therefore already contain the seam and hem allowances, but this harbors a further potential for error: for example, in such a way that the seamstress (out of habit or lack of concentration) adds an additional seam allowance to the seam allowance that is now exceptionally already drawn in the pattern template cutting the pattern pieces and thus the shape of the pattern pieces is then no longer correct.
  • US 3824628 A describes a method of sewing fabric together in which a pattern is applied to a piece of fabric to serve as sewing guides for the construction of seams, darts and the like.
  • pins are placed across the pattern and the fabric at the said markers and removed again when the sewing processes are completed.
  • US 2018/ 0 190 149 A1 discloses a code for use in assembling a garment, the code containing a plurality of unique instruction markings required to assemble the component parts into the desired garment.
  • CH 464 125 A describes a set of pieces of fabric that has pieces of fabric cut to a specific size and prepared for easy sewing together, in order to relieve the user of complicated sewing work. In this way, pieces of fabric can be included from the outset be provided with buttonholes or decorative seams. Likewise, the otherwise necessary ingredients such as taffeta lining, zipper, belt strap, buttons, costume jewellery, sewing thread, skirt and jacket hangers can also be included in the packaging.
  • CH 256223 A describes patterns in which the outlines of the pattern pieces take into account the hem and seam allowance and attachment lines are indicated.
  • the attachment lines/seam lines are indicated over their entire length by perforations and the connection between the attachment lines on different pattern parts is indicated by designations associated with these lines.
  • the attachment lines of the pattern are punched for faster and more accurate e.g. B. by powdering to be able to be transferred to the fabric to be processed.
  • US 2004/0 153 195 A1 relates generally to the manufacture of apparel and more particularly to a system and method for the manufacture and inspection of made-to-measure clothing using digital design data.
  • a method is disclosed in which a try-on garment is created from a plurality of master patterns. The base patterns are then modified according to a customer's body shape and fit and/or style preferences and combined to create a sample garment based on the markings and to create customer data. Also disclosed in this regard is the cutting of material for a tailored garment based on the customer's data and the sewing of the cut material to produce the tailored garment.
  • the object of the invention is to simplify and make clearer the correct assembly of a pattern piece set for the production of a sewn product.
  • the pattern set according to the invention comprises pattern parts with seam allowances inherent in the pattern part, which have orientation recesses or orientation embossings or a mixture of both.
  • orientation cut-outs or orientation embossings in the seam allowances are designed in such a way that they provide information that can be quickly grasped, at which points which pattern parts are to be superimposed or brought together in the manufacturing process - namely, those orientation cut-outs or orientation To superimpose embossings that fit perfectly into each other.
  • Orientation recesses or orientation embossings are, within the meaning of the invention, all those recesses or embossings in the seam allowance inherent in the pattern part that are present in at least two seam allowances inherent in the pattern part in identical or corresponding form, so that they have at least one corresponding partner.
  • orientation recesses or orientation embossings in the seam allowance inherent in the cut part are of such are designed so that whenever the orientation recesses or orientation embossings are precisely aligned with one another, the pattern pieces or pattern piece edges provided with them are positioned correctly in relation to one another in order to create the corresponding sewing product. Consequently, any positioning of pattern pieces or pattern piece edges relative to one another that does not produce a precisely fitting meeting of the orientation recesses or orientation embossings along the seam section is incorrect in terms of the correct assembly of the corresponding sewn product.
  • the positioning and alignment of the edges of the pattern pieces that are necessary for the cutting of the sewn product can be defined in relation to one another.
  • the (lateral) positioning of the cut pieces relative to one another can even be clearly defined as a result.
  • the correct orientation of the contact surfaces of the patterned parts e.g. printed side of the fabric on the printed side of the fabric
  • embossing, glue or other markings that can be assigned to a surface.
  • Aligning within the meaning of the invention means that two orientation cutouts of identical/corresponding shape and size lead to a precisely fitting, at least two-layer cutout of the same shape and size by superimposing at least two layers of material - or that two orientation embossings of identical/corresponding shape and size occur Superimposing at least two layers of material with their convex and concave side interlocking in such a way that of two identical/corresponding shapes, patterns or markings, the convex side is on the concave side or vice versa.
  • the alignment can also be generated in the sense of the invention by creating elevations on a material - for example, by applying adhesive in corresponding forms, which then each sticks to each other.
  • the application of adhesive in corresponding shapes is a sub-form of orientation embossing.
  • other shapes, patterns or markings can be cut or embossed into the seam allowances - for example starting points of seam lines, seam lines or points at which pattern pieces meet other seams.
  • These additional instruction cutouts or instruction embossings are characterized in that they are each only cut or embossed into the seam allowance of a seam section and have no corresponding partner.
  • the starting points are important for the user, as they define the layer of fabric that lies on top when sewing. So it can be a rule within pattern sets that a starting point is always cut in the upper layer of fabric. If the hobby seamstress cannot find a starting point, the correct layer of fabric is not on top and it has to be repositioned. The starting point makes it unmistakable that the pattern pieces are correctly aligned with one another - which can be particularly useful for seams with three or more layers of fabric.
  • edges of the cut parts can also be designed in such a way that, based on their specific shape, they give instructions on how to process them in terms of the sewn product.
  • a bottom edge of a pattern piece that is (fully or partially) cut in a wavy shape can mean that this edge is to be turned over to form a 4cm wide hem.
  • an edge cut (in whole or in part) in small zigzag shapes may mean that it needs to be edged with bias binding.
  • instruction edges can be cut so that they are cut into, for example, a four-wave shape when a hem is to be turned four centimeters and a shape with only two waves is cut when the corresponding hem is only to be turned up two centimeters.
  • Orientation recesses or orientation embossings are preferably designed in such a way that each seam section is assigned its own shape of the orientation recesses or orientation embossings, which shape can be distinguished from the shapes of the other seam sections.
  • this principle is used for at least one section of seam within a set of pattern pieces for a sewing product; Not every seam section of a sewing product must necessarily have these orientation cut-outs or orientation embossings in its seam allowance, since this may not always make sense if, for example, a seam section results by itself from previously correctly placed seams. An additional marking of such a seam section could otherwise make the pattern pieces of a pattern piece set more confusing than clearer.
  • Orientation recesses can also greatly facilitate the processing of materials to be sewn on stretched (such as cuffs). This is done in that the necessary stretching in the corresponding shapes and arrangement of these shapes of the recesses or embossings is already taken into account in such a way that an accuracy of fit between the corresponding orientation recesses is only generated through the correct stretching when the corresponding cut parts or cut part edges are brought together . This creates an intuitive and at the same time very specific specification of how much exactly the material to be stretched has to be stretched for the desired result. This is relevant, for example, in the production of baby and children's clothing, where cuffs are often placed on the sleeves, necklines or stomach to optimize the fit of the garment. If these cuffs (e.g.
  • Orientation recesses or orientation embossing may extend from the edge of the seam allowance into the seam allowance and thereby form the shape of the edge of the seam allowance.
  • orientation recesses or orientation embossings can also be arranged at a distance from the edge of the cut piece.
  • orientation recesses or orientation embossings can also be selected in the form that they represent numbers or letters, which not only make it easier to place a seam correctly, but also provide information about the order in which the individual work steps are to be carried out.
  • orientation cutouts and/or orientation embossings are advantageous in such a way that specific shapes of the orientation cutouts or orientation embossings not only provide information, for example, about the order in which the work steps are to be implemented, but also provide information on how to sew a section of seam.
  • Orientation recesses and/or orientation embossings in the form of numbers can provide information about the sequence of corresponding work steps and with differently shaped orientation Recesses and / or orientation embossing are combined, which due to their specific shape, for example, information about the stitch to be used (e.g.
  • orientation recess or orientation embossing could also be selected in such a way that it provides information about the stitch length - for example, two squares cut or embossed next to each other could mean that a stitch length of 2 mm should be selected and four squares cut next to each other or embossed squares accordingly that a 4 mm stitch length is to be selected.
  • the most suitable variant in the execution of the orientation recesses and/or orientation embossing depends on various factors - such as the skill level of the user, the length of seam sections and the nature of the respective materials - and cannot be assessed in general.
  • coded shapes in the seam allowance can be generated in two ways: on the one hand, orientation cutouts can be selected in such a way that they have the shape of the coded shapes; on the other hand, orientation recesses can be selected in such a way that their shape forms the coded shapes from the respective material. In this case, the coded shapes appear as if they are protruding or protruding from the edge of the piece. This embodiment is preferable, for example, if the selected seam allowance is to be trimmed back after the seam has been set.
  • orientation cut-outs in this variant extend into the side(s). extend the side edge(s) of the seam allowance, it is easier to reach the overhanging shapes with scissors and the seam allowance could easily be trimmed back. In hobby and leisure sewing, wider seam allowances are often used than in industrial production, and then cutting them back can make sense, for example for reasons of wearing comfort.
  • embossing of the coded form is the preferred variant in most cases.
  • Coded shapes within the meaning of the invention are all shapes that, due to their occurrence on the seam allowance - regardless of whether they flow into the edge of the pattern piece or are at a distance from it; whether cut or embossed; no matter whether individually or in combination - provide information to the seamstress about the correct processing of the pattern pieces.
  • Coded shapes in the form of orientation recesses and/or orientation embossings are preferably used—but they can also be found in the form of instruction recesses and/or instruction embossings and/or specific forms of instruction edges.
  • orientation recesses or orientation embossing could have shapes suitable for the sewing project. If, for example, leather crawling shoes are to be sewn, the orientation embossing could be chosen in the form of small footprints, stockings and/or shoes.
  • the seam allowances inherent in the pattern part would have orientation recesses or orientation embossing where the seam allowances of the same pattern part are to be superimposed when sewing (e.g. the two side edges of a pattern part for a simple skirt).
  • this one cut part can in turn also have instruction cutouts or instruction embossings as well as instruction edges.
  • the ideal embodiment will depend in particular on the size of the pattern pieces, the selected width of the seam allowances and the material properties of the material. Smaller shapes, patterns or markings can be worked into particularly stable materials as orientation recesses or orientation embossing than into particularly fine ones. The fact that some fabrics can curl up or fray at the edges after cutting must also be taken into account when designing the orientation cut-outs.
  • orientation cutouts and/or orientation embossings are placed in a seam section and whether they each have the same shape or a combination of different shapes and placements makes sense.
  • Using different shapes can make sense for reasons of clarity or to simplify production.
  • Combined orientation recesses or orientation embossings can also have the information function already described, such as which seam is to be placed on how many layers of fabric.
  • orientation cutouts and/or orientation embossings will affect the design and placement of the orientation cutouts and/or orientation embossings to be selected. Placing simple orientation notches in the edge of the seam allowance would have the advantage that an electronic cutter could cut the pattern piece shape without stopping. In comparison to the positioning of the orientation cutouts at a distance from the edge of the seam allowance, there would also be no small-scale waste in the form of the cutouts that might have to be detached manually from the pattern pieces. In practice, by gaining experience in handling, both on the production side and on the part of the user, there will always be new insights as to which design of the orientation recesses or orientation embossing is most advantageous for a specific sewing project and a specific group of users.
  • a fundamental advantage of the orientation cutouts or orientation embossing lies in the fact that the accuracy of fit is indicated even during sewing. If, for example, the seam allowances were only printed or dyed to match, it would not be possible to check during the sewing process whether the lower layer of fabric is accidentally distorted (stretched or gathered) or slipped, which is a common problem in practice, especially with very fine or elastic fabrics , which is usually counteracted by extensive pinning with pins or staples.
  • orientation recesses and/or orientation embossing can be advantageous to supplement or substitute orientation recesses and/or orientation embossing with printing or the use of adhesive. It can be advantageous for the user if, for example, the starting point of a seam can be quickly identified by means of a corresponding printed marking on the seam allowance of the pattern piece lying on top in the sewing machine is made. Furthermore, instructions or tips for processing could be printed on the seam allowance. It would also be conceivable, for example, to supplement simple geometric orientation cutouts with printed numbers that indicate the order of the work steps (e.g. if cutting out the orientation cutouts themselves in the form of numbers is not possible or expedient due to the material properties of the material) .
  • printing generally means creating a color on the seam allowance of a pattern piece - regardless of which printing method (e.g. screen printing, digital printing, pad printing, stamping technology or other) and which type of color (varnish, textile paint, stamping ink, chalk, acrylic paint or other) is used for the corresponding material.
  • printing method e.g. screen printing, digital printing, pad printing, stamping technology or other
  • type of color varnish, textile paint, stamping ink, chalk, acrylic paint or other
  • the use of adhesive means the targeted application of adhesive to a seam allowance of one or more pattern pieces in order to simplify or clarify the correct positioning of pattern pieces relative to one another.
  • the adhesive itself can be colored and applied to the cut parts in a specific form, so that correlating or instructive or coded forms can also be created here.
  • orientation embossing in thinner material that cannot be effectively embossed could be created or clarified in the form of applied adhesive, so that the user can glue these adhesive spots to each other according to their correlating shapes and not just the correct one positioning of the pattern pieces relative to each other, but the pattern pieces also stick together immediately so that they don't slip when sewing.
  • Adhesive is to be understood as any form of product that allows this product to be stuck together with this product or the material - such as textile glue, double-sided textile adhesive tape, anti-slip coatings, Velcro or similar.
  • the cutting part sets according to the invention can consist of different materials and can also combine different materials with one another—depending on the sewing product to be created. For example, a pattern set consisting of jersey and cuffs can be useful if baby pants are to be sewn. Or a pattern set can consist of pattern parts made of leather on the one hand and pattern parts made of lining material on the other, in order to make a handbag out of them, for example.
  • a pattern piece set consists of pattern pieces from one or more materials and one or more templates for the production of another pattern piece(s) by the user himself. This is then the preferred embodiment, if, for example, already Existing or specific material is to be incorporated into a sewing product. In this case, the pattern piece(s) to be supplemented would be provided by one or more templates for the production of this/these pattern piece(s).
  • an independent inventive part of the invention is/are accordingly also one/several template(s) for the production of pattern parts according to the invention for the manufacture of a sewn product, as well as a set comprising one/several such template(s).
  • a template for the production of patterned parts according to the invention is used to produce patterned parts with orientation recesses and/or orientation embossing and/or instruction recesses and/or instruction edges in order to combine them with other such patterned parts to form a sewing product. It can either supplement an existing pattern piece set from existing pattern pieces or be used in the form of a template set that is used to produce all pattern pieces of the pattern piece set (including orientation cut-outs and/or orientation embossing and/or instruction cut-outs and /or instruction edges).
  • the templates for producing pattern pieces with orientation cutouts and/or orientation embossing are characterized in that they already have the seam allowance for a sewing product and orientation cutouts or embossings are arranged in this seam allowance in the sense that they are in the cut-out pattern pieces each have corresponding partners who, when the cut-out pattern pieces are correctly superimposed, are aligned with one another and thus show the correct position of the pattern pieces in relation to one another.
  • instruction cut-outs and/or instruction embossing and/or instruction edges can be integrated into the seam allowances and thus into the template shape.
  • a template is basically any template that reproduces the shape of a pattern part with orientation cutouts or orientation embossing and/or instruction cutouts or instruction embossing and/or instruction edges and for tracing, cutting out, embossing, perforating , laser, through etching or for making an impression.
  • a stencil can also be a digital template for the production of a haptic stencil (e.g. by printing it out on paper or by printing it out with a 3D printer).
  • the template for creating pattern pieces with orientation cutouts or orientation embossings, if necessary instruction cutouts or instruction embossings and/or instruction edges is particularly relevant for the production of such sewn products in which materials that are already used or available in whole or in part are to be used.
  • material can be saved for the production of a sewn product, for example by producing a garment in parts from new pattern parts according to the invention (by machine) and adding one or more manually cut pattern parts from existing material.
  • the production of such supplementary pattern parts is made possible or facilitated by the template described, taking into account the orientation recesses or orientation embossings, instruction recesses or instruction embossings and/or instruction edges.
  • orientation recesses For the pattern parts to be cut using the template according to the invention, a preferred embodiment of the orientation recesses would be simple, less angled shapes, since these are much easier to cut out manually.
  • the cutting can be done with a cutter,
  • cloth knife craft scalpel, cloth scissors or other cutting tools.
  • the template according to the invention can also be used in a set of several templates for preparing complete pattern part sets for smaller sewn products such as underpants or panties from existing materials.
  • a set of several templates can also be created in one template body, so that one template body contains several templates.
  • templates according to the invention allows the production of complete sets of pattern pieces with a new type of seam allowance inherent in the pattern piece, or of individual pattern pieces of such a set of pattern pieces.
  • the new seam allowance inherent in the pattern part means that he/she can quickly and intuitively orientate himself/herself on the pattern parts belonging to a sewing product and - where used - sew together correctly thanks to the orientation recesses or orientation guides already incorporated in the seam allowance inherent in the pattern part embossing, instruction cutouts or instruction embossing and/or instruction edges is significantly facilitated.
  • a time-consuming 'reading - understanding - fitting - reinsuring - sewing' is replaced by a faster 'fitting - fitting - sewing'. Time-consuming pinning out before sewing together can be at least reduced, since the invention allows checking at any time whether nothing has slipped.
  • the sewing process becomes easier, faster and more qualitative. This also prevents errors that can lead to waste, unnecessary material waste, frustration or unusable results. At the same time, comfort, safety and a sense of achievement when sewing are promoted.
  • the invention can be used for quality assurance in the industrial production of sewn products, since it facilitates the uniform production of stretching or gathering. Furthermore, the training time of seamstresses in a work step can be accelerated by the intuitive handling.
  • sensors can detect the correct seam allowances through the different shapes and thus process cut parts correctly.
  • the pattern pieces with a seam allowance inherent in the pattern piece according to the invention can be produced in various ways. Orientation notches can be cut manually with scissors, blade or fland punch. Or - more relevant in a high-volume publication - by laser, punching knives in punching machines or electric cutters. Orientation embossing can be done manually or with an electric embossing machine.
  • Computer-aided methods of the production process are preferably used for the production of the pattern part sets within the meaning of the invention. These can provide for an adequate arrangement and design of the orientation recesses and/or orientation embossing in the seam allowances inherent in the pattern part through manual input or later independently.
  • Figures 2a-2b one set each with 3 pattern pieces and seam allowance according to the invention; 3a-3f different versions of the seam allowance according to the invention; 4a-4b cut pieces with a stretchable fabric to be sewn;
  • Fig. 5 cut parts with corresponding embossing.
  • 6a-6b show a template for creating pattern pieces with a seam allowance according to the invention or a set of pattern pieces and a supplementary template for creating a further pattern piece with a seam allowance according to the invention
  • FIG. 1 shows a pattern part set with three pattern parts 3 according to the prior art.
  • Each pattern piece 3 is delimited on the sides by a pattern piece edge 1 .
  • the seam allowance 4 known from the prior art and the seam line 2 are located at a distance from the edge 1 of the pattern piece. Care must be taken to ensure that the correct pattern pieces 3 are aligned exactly to one another in the correct orientation with any stretching that may be necessary. This often results in errors and inaccuracies. Even individual incisions/auxiliary incisions for positioning cannot solve this problem.
  • FIGS. 2a and 2b each show a set of three pattern parts 3 in accordance with the present invention.
  • each of the pattern parts 3 initially has a Section edge 1, a seam line 2 and a seam allowance 5.
  • the functional seam allowance 5, which is essential to the invention, enables a simple alignment and exact positioning of the pattern parts 3 to one another.
  • orientation recesses 6 are arranged in the seam allowance.
  • the recesses 6 are selected in such a way that numbers are formed in the cut of the cut part edge 1 .
  • the order of the sewing steps can be specified on the one hand, and it can also be determined which section of a pattern piece 3 is to be superimposed on which section of the same or another pattern piece 3 and sewn.
  • the formation of the number forms can take place in two different ways, as shown: In FIG. 2a, the numbers are formed by cutting out the number form in the edge 1 of the seam allowance 5; In FIG. 2b, the orientation recesses 6 are selected in such a way that the remaining material forms the shape of a number and this number then appears as if it were protruding from the edge 1 of the cut part.
  • FIG. 2c shows a set of three pattern parts 3 with a seam allowance 5 according to the invention, into which orientation recesses 6 in the form of geometric shapes are cut at a distance from the edge 1 of the pattern part.
  • Such an embodiment is preferably to be selected, for example, when the cut parts are to be punched with steel band knives and shapes with few angles are to be selected for cost reasons.
  • FIGS. 3a to 3f each show details of different preferred embodiments of individual seam allowances 5 according to the invention with differently configured orientation cutouts 6.
  • Circular cutouts 6 are provided in FIG. Due to their familiar shape, these can be grasped particularly quickly by the user and - together with other geometric shapes such as triangles, rectangles, rhombuses or ovals - can be used particularly well with simple ones Sewing products with a few pattern parts 3 are used. They also allow the corresponding orientation recesses 6 to be easily aligned with one another during the sewing process. However, this cannot prevent two pattern pieces 3 with the wrong orientation of the fabric (eg edges not flush but overlapping) from being positioned in relation to one another.
  • circular recesses 6 or generally symmetrical recesses 6 are preferably used for sets for advanced sewers who have already internalized the basic sewing procedure.
  • the recesses 6 extend up to the cutting part edge 1, as shown in FIG. 3b.
  • the recesses 6 are positioned here correspondingly running into the blank edge 1 and are shown as a semicircle and are therefore part of the shape of the blank edge 1.
  • FIG. 3c shows a variant in which the number 1 is positioned as an orientation recess 6 in the seam allowance 5 in such a way that it forms the shape of the pattern part edge 1 in the cut.
  • This variant is particularly suitable for use in those materials and sewn products where the seam allowance 5 should not be trimmed back afterwards and/or the edge of the pattern piece 1 should not look so “frayed”.
  • Another variant of generating the number 1 is to select the orientation cutouts 6 in the seam allowance 5 in such a way that the shape of a 1 results around them—as shown in FIG. 3d.
  • small, protruding triangles have also been created by the choice of the recesses 6, which provide the sewers with further orientation points between the ones the edge 1 of the pattern parts 3 deliver.
  • Combining several shapes of the recesses 6 can be favorable for reasons of clarity or production technology.
  • the different shapes can also provide different ways of sewing the pattern pieces 3: For example, in this example, the 1 could provide information that this is the first seam of the sewing project and the two adjacent triangles could provide information that two layers of fabric are to be sewn together are.
  • FIG. 3e shows a variant of the seam allowance 5 in which the orientation recesses 6 are selected in such a way that they form protruding and indented elements along the edge 1 of the pattern piece.
  • Such a variant is also particularly advantageous if the fact of whether an element is indented or protruding has additional information for processing the seam.
  • the indented numbers can provide information about the order of the work steps and mark protruding elements, for example where a stretchable stitch (e.g. zigzag stitch compared to straight stitch) should be used.
  • FIG. 3f shows a variant of the seam allowance 5, in which orientation recesses 6 spaced apart from the edge 1 of the cut piece and flowing into the edge 1 of the cut piece are combined.
  • Such a variant is preferable, for example, for those materials that are so fine that more complex shapes of the orientation recesses 6 cannot be placed in the cut part edge 1, since they would fray there, for example.
  • each seam allowance 5 and each pattern piece 3 can also be provided in each seam allowance 5 and each pattern piece 3 .
  • the spacing of the recesses 6 of a blank 3 from one another corresponds in some embodiments to the spacing of the corresponding recesses 6 on the same or another blank 3 to which it is to be sewn.
  • FIGS. 4a and 4b this does not have to be the case when an extensible material is to be sewn to a non-extensible or less extensible material.
  • a pattern part 3 made of a non-stretchable material to be sewn is shown on the left-hand side and a pattern part 3 made of a stretchable material to be sewn on the right-hand side of FIG. 4a—both in an unstretched state.
  • the distances between the cutouts 6 in the stretchable fabric that is to be sewn in a stretched manner are smaller in an unstretched state than in the non-stretchable fabric that is to be sewn in a stretched manner on the left-hand side.
  • the corresponding recesses 6 can also be formed compressed in the unstretched state on the fabric to be sewn stretched.
  • FIG. 4b it can be seen how the stretched fabric to be sewn is pulled apart along the stretching direction 8 so that the corresponding recesses 6 are aligned with one another.
  • stretched fabrics to be sewn are either stretched to make the cutouts 6 or a stretching is taken into account in advance when designing and arranging the cutouts.
  • FIG. 5 shows a further preferred embodiment of the invention, which is used in particular with stronger materials such as leather.
  • orientation recesses 6 instead of orientation recesses 6 here are one or more orientation Embossing(s) 7 provided.
  • orientation embossings 7 With the aid of the orientation embossings 7, it can easily be determined by touch whether the pattern parts 3 intended for sewing are correctly positioned and aligned in the correct direction. In this case, the embossings 7 can be placed one inside the other.
  • FIGS. 6a and 6b show a template for creating pattern pieces 3 with orientation cutouts 6 or a set of a template and finished pattern pieces 3 for creating pattern pieces 3 with orientation cutouts 6 for producing a sewn product.
  • the stencil body 9 can consist of different materials that are suitable for safely guiding a pen or a cutting tool around the stencil and thus transferring its shape.
  • the template edges 10 have orientation recesses 6 here, which are arranged in such a way that they facilitate the later sewing together of the sewn product in the form that they are aligned with one another when the pattern parts are correctly positioned.
  • the orientation cutouts are marked in such a way that they represent numbers and the cut-out pattern pieces thus also immediately reflect the sequence of the seams to be sewn.
  • FIG. 7 shows a paper template printed out from a digital template, which can be manually cut out by the user himself or another person and used to trace or cut the shape of the pattern part onto/into a material.
  • the digital embodiment is always preferred when physical transfer of a template is more complex or less suitable than using a digital variant. This can be the case, for example, if a pattern piece set is machine-made and is to be supplemented by individual pattern pieces that are to be cut manually by the user.
  • Printing out and then cutting out a stencil body 9 can be more economical and ecological than supplying a finished stencil body 9--especially if it is is a one off sewing project. It is also necessary to use a digital embodiment - for example as a vector file - whenever the cutting or drawing tool needs this digital information for cutting or plotting. This is the case, for example, in the mechanical production of cut parts 3 using lasers or electric cutter machines.
  • orientation embossing stretch direction

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne un ensemble comprenant au moins deux patrons (3), destiné à la fabrication d'un article de couture, les patrons (3) présentant une marge de couture (5) qui est inhérente au patron et dans laquelle est disposé respectivement au moins un évidement d'orientation (6) ou un gaufrage d'orientation (7). Les patrons (3) sont notamment caractérisés en ce que les marges de couture inhérentes au patron (5) présentent au moins un évidement d'orientation (6) ou un gaufrage d'orientation (7) dans un premier patron (3), qui correspond à un évidement d'orientation (6) ou un gaufrage d'orientation (7) disposé dans un deuxième patron (3). Les deux évidements d'orientation (6) ou gaufrages d'orientation (7) sont disposés sur les patrons respectifs (3) et sont conçus de manière à s'aligner en cas de superposition des marges de couture (5), et ainsi à fixer mutuellement le positionnement et l'orientation des bords de patrons (1), nécessaires pour la fabrication de l'article de couture.
PCT/DE2022/100342 2021-05-07 2022-05-05 Ensemble de patrons et marge de couture inhérente au patron WO2022233367A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

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EP22729431.1A EP4333665A1 (fr) 2021-05-07 2022-05-05 Ensemble de patrons et marge de couture inhérente au patron

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE102021111924.3 2021-05-07
DE202021102476.3U DE202021102476U1 (de) 2021-05-07 2021-05-07 Schnittteil-Set mit schnittteilinhärenter Nahtzugabe
DE102021111924.3A DE102021111924B3 (de) 2021-05-07 2021-05-07 Schnittteil-Set mit schnittteilinhärenter Nahtzugabe
DE202021102476.3 2021-05-07

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WO2022233367A1 true WO2022233367A1 (fr) 2022-11-10

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Citations (10)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CH203681A (de) 1938-01-28 1939-03-31 Ringier & Co Aktiengesellschaf Schnittmuster.
DE695119C (de) 1938-01-28 1940-08-16 Rinco A G Schnittmuster
CH256223A (de) 1945-05-03 1948-08-15 Ringier & Co Aktiengesellschaf Schnittmuster.
US3033357A (en) * 1958-04-10 1962-05-08 Vogel Lida Brown Apparel kit
CH464125A (de) 1967-12-12 1968-10-31 Brams Hermann Damen- und Kinderbekleidung
US3824628A (en) 1973-06-07 1974-07-23 P Bannister Method and equipment for sewing
GB2222395A (en) * 1988-09-06 1990-03-07 Makower & Co Limited M Garments
US20040153195A1 (en) 2003-01-14 2004-08-05 Watanabe John S. System and method for inspecting custom-made clothing
US20070261260A1 (en) * 2006-05-12 2007-11-15 Anna Louise Ermina Djapo Loza Pattern making tool
US20180190149A1 (en) 2016-12-31 2018-07-05 Jo Ann Mitton Pattern and method for assembly of garments

Patent Citations (10)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CH203681A (de) 1938-01-28 1939-03-31 Ringier & Co Aktiengesellschaf Schnittmuster.
DE695119C (de) 1938-01-28 1940-08-16 Rinco A G Schnittmuster
CH256223A (de) 1945-05-03 1948-08-15 Ringier & Co Aktiengesellschaf Schnittmuster.
US3033357A (en) * 1958-04-10 1962-05-08 Vogel Lida Brown Apparel kit
CH464125A (de) 1967-12-12 1968-10-31 Brams Hermann Damen- und Kinderbekleidung
US3824628A (en) 1973-06-07 1974-07-23 P Bannister Method and equipment for sewing
GB2222395A (en) * 1988-09-06 1990-03-07 Makower & Co Limited M Garments
US20040153195A1 (en) 2003-01-14 2004-08-05 Watanabe John S. System and method for inspecting custom-made clothing
US20070261260A1 (en) * 2006-05-12 2007-11-15 Anna Louise Ermina Djapo Loza Pattern making tool
US20180190149A1 (en) 2016-12-31 2018-07-05 Jo Ann Mitton Pattern and method for assembly of garments

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