EP1479802B1 - Nähgarn sowie Verfahren zur Herstellung eines derartigen Nähgarnes - Google Patents

Nähgarn sowie Verfahren zur Herstellung eines derartigen Nähgarnes Download PDF

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Publication number
EP1479802B1
EP1479802B1 EP04008559.9A EP04008559A EP1479802B1 EP 1479802 B1 EP1479802 B1 EP 1479802B1 EP 04008559 A EP04008559 A EP 04008559A EP 1479802 B1 EP1479802 B1 EP 1479802B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
sewing thread
yarn
sewing
poly
trimethylene
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
Application number
EP04008559.9A
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German (de)
English (en)
French (fr)
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EP1479802A1 (de
Inventor
Pierre Hornez
Mathias Wittmann
Karl Greifeneder
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Amann and Soehne GmbH and Co KG
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Amann and Soehne GmbH and Co KG
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Publication date
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Priority to PL04008559T priority Critical patent/PL1479802T3/pl
Publication of EP1479802A1 publication Critical patent/EP1479802A1/de
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP1479802B1 publication Critical patent/EP1479802B1/de
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
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Classifications

    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/44Yarns or threads characterised by the purpose for which they are designed
    • D02G3/46Sewing-cottons or the like
    • YGENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10STECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10S57/00Textiles: spinning, twisting, and twining
    • Y10S57/903Sewing threads
    • YGENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10TTECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T428/00Stock material or miscellaneous articles
    • Y10T428/29Coated or structually defined flake, particle, cell, strand, strand portion, rod, filament, macroscopic fiber or mass thereof
    • YGENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10TTECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T428/00Stock material or miscellaneous articles
    • Y10T428/29Coated or structually defined flake, particle, cell, strand, strand portion, rod, filament, macroscopic fiber or mass thereof
    • Y10T428/2913Rod, strand, filament or fiber
    • YGENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10TTECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T428/00Stock material or miscellaneous articles
    • Y10T428/29Coated or structually defined flake, particle, cell, strand, strand portion, rod, filament, macroscopic fiber or mass thereof
    • Y10T428/2913Rod, strand, filament or fiber
    • Y10T428/2922Nonlinear [e.g., crimped, coiled, etc.]
    • Y10T428/2924Composite
    • YGENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10TTECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T428/00Stock material or miscellaneous articles
    • Y10T428/29Coated or structually defined flake, particle, cell, strand, strand portion, rod, filament, macroscopic fiber or mass thereof
    • Y10T428/2913Rod, strand, filament or fiber
    • Y10T428/2973Particular cross section
    • Y10T428/2976Longitudinally varying

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a sewing thread having the features of the preamble of claim 1 and two methods for producing such a sewing thread.
  • Sewing threads are known in different constructions.
  • the known sewing yarn comprises the construction of an air-entangled sewing yarn such that a multifilament first core yarn component is entangled with the aid of air flow with a second effect yarn component.
  • the individual filaments of such a sewing yarn are looped or bow-shaped, so that the thread closing of the sewing thread required for the sewing process is achieved as a result.
  • a second basic sewing thread construction is in the EP 0 569 891A described.
  • a multifilament first yarn component is wound by a second yarn component, wherein then at least two, preferably three, such rovings are twisted together to produce the finished core yarn, so that by the twisting the relevant thread closure can be achieved.
  • the rovings consisting of at least two yarn components are provided with a rotation, wherein the direction of rotation of this rotation is opposite to the direction of rotation of the twist.
  • this known sewing thread construction forms the sewing thread as a thread, wherein this thread has at least two, but preferably three, multifilament yarn components.
  • Each yarn component forming the yarn is also pre-twisted prior to twisting, with the pre-twist of each multifilament yarn component also being opposite in direction to the direction of twisting.
  • a sewing thread made of synthetic multifilaments wherein the known sewing thread has at least two yarn components whose individual filaments are aligned parallel to each other. These two yarn components are wound together, wherein to achieve the required thread closure then the twisted two yarn components are provided over their entire surface on their surface with a polymeric coating.
  • this known sewing thread thus has two mutually twisted multifilament yarn components, but in each yarn component all the filaments are aligned parallel to one another.
  • the known sewing yarn is covered over the entire surface of the polymeric coating, so that accordingly, for example, at the yarn brake of the sewing machine or a deflection of the sewing yarn no filaments with the yarn brake or .
  • the sewing thread required for the sewing thread take-up is provided primarily by the full-surface wrapping available.
  • the known sewing yarns described above which have the construction of a core yarn, a swirled sewing yarn, a sewing thread or a full-surface coated sewing yarn, can be used only to a limited extent for the sewing of elastic articles.
  • the present invention has for its object to provide a sewing yarn, in particular for use in elastic articles available, which is particularly economical to use.
  • the sewing thread according to the invention like the known sewing threads described above, consists of multifilament synthetic fibers and / or fiber yarns, wherein the sewing thread has at least one yarn component of poly-trimethylene terephthalate fibers.
  • the ready-to-use sewing thread according to the invention has a maximum tensile force elongation of between 25% and 85%, this maximum tensile elongation at break and the absolute strength being determined in a conventional manner by a conventional force-strain measuring method based on DIN EN ISO 2062.
  • the sewing thread according to the invention has an elastic elongation, which is between 30% and 95% of the elongation, which is determined at a measuring force which corresponds to 70% of the absolute strength of the respective sewing thread.
  • This is expressed by the term gel-elastic elongation brought that after a corresponding, repeated repeated loading and subsequent discharge the sewing thread according to the invention still has an elasticity in the aforementioned size.
  • Elastic articles in the sense of the present application are all articles that are subjected to a load, i. experienced in a force application, a reversible increase in length, the term elastic articles in particular knitted and knitted garments from the field of underwear, swimwear, sportswear, blouses, T-shirts, sweatshirts, sweaters and corsetry but also elastic and in particular woven outerwear articles, such as elastic pants and preferably elastic jeans, as well as elastic technical articles, such as seat covers for vehicle seats covers.
  • fiber yarn which corresponds to the terms staple fiber yarn, refers to such yarns made from a plurality of individual fibers (staple fibers) with a limited length, for example a staple length between 12 mm and 160 mm, preferably spun , are.
  • first significant advantage of the sewing yarn according to the invention that can be produced by using the sewing thread according to the invention in elastic articles such seams, even without the provision of Garnbefinn previously described in the seam, as always required in the known sewing threads, perfectly create elastic seams.
  • the seams created with the sewing thread according to the invention have an excellent seam elasticity, which is also present if there is no or only a very small yarn excess length of the sewing yarn in such a seam, wherein due to the high elasticity of the invention Sewing yarn and in particular the high elastic elongation of the same ensured that even after repeated loading and after repeated overloading of the seam no undesirable opening of the seam occurs, as the sewing yarn conforms to the elasticity of the elastic article.
  • this also allows sewing of a plurality of fabric layers arranged one above the other, without a seam thus created being perceived as being troublesome when the prefabricated part is worn.
  • the sewing yarn according to the invention Due to the fact that in the seams created using the sewing yarn according to the invention no or only a significantly reduced Garnüberitz is provided in this seam, the sewing yarn according to the invention, which, as already stated above, has excellent machine sewability, particularly economical process, where This sewing thread saving compared to conventional sewing threads, which require a correspondingly large Garnüberrat in the seam, between 20% and 40%, based on the respective seam to be created and in particular in a lockstitch seam, required Nähgarnate.
  • the multifilament synthetic yarn of the invention can contain any synthetic fibers which give the ready-to-use sewing thread the aforementioned maximum tensile elongation at break and the aforementioned elastic elongation.
  • the sewing thread according to the invention may comprise or consist of corresponding polyethylene terephthalate fibers or polyamide 6 or polyamide 6.6 fibers.
  • the sewing thread of the invention has at least one yarn component consisting of a multifilamentary poly-trimethylene terephthalate fiber or a fiber yarn.
  • the sewing yarn of the present invention contains either the aforementioned multifilamentary poly-trimethylene terephthalate fiber or the above-mentioned fiber yarn of poly-trimethylene terephthalate fibers, or else the sewing yarn of the present invention consists in particular of at least one multifilamentary poly-trimethylene terephthalate fiber and / or at least one fiber yarn of poly-trimethylene terephthalate fibers.
  • the sewing thread according to the invention may have the constructions as described in the background in the prior art, as long as it is ensured that such a construction the sewing thread according to the invention a maximum tensile force between 25% and 85%, preferably between 35% and 70%, and provides a ductile elongation which is between 30% to 95% and in particular between 50% and 80% of the elongation determined at a measuring force corresponding to 70% of the absolute strength of the respective sewing yarn ,
  • the sewing thread according to the invention has the construction of a sewing thread, wherein this, characterized by an excellent processing behavior further distinguished sewing thread then at least two twist components and preferably three twist components.
  • this characterized by an excellent processing behavior further distinguished sewing thread then at least two twist components and preferably three twist components.
  • twisting components are provided with a pre-rotation, preferably this pre-rotation in S-direction, and the pre-twisted twist components are then twisted together to form the Nähzwirnes
  • said twisting is preferably carried out in the Z direction draws such a development; of the sewing thread according to the invention by a high processing security during sewing, i. thus by an even lower thread breakage frequency, in combination with a high Nahtelastiztician, so that the seams created herewith do not lose their elasticity even after multiple load and discharge.
  • a particularly suitable development of the sewing yarn according to the invention provides that in this case the thread components forming the sewing thread have a pre-rotation with a rotation coefficient ⁇ between 50 and 130 and in particular between 70 and 100, whereas the sewing thread created therefrom then has in particular a rotation coefficient ⁇ ', which varies between 80 and 160, and preferably between 95 and 125.
  • Rotation coefficient ⁇ Turns per meter nm
  • Nm means the yarn count (total titer) of the total twist, given in number metric.
  • the sewing thread of the present invention which has the construction of a twist in the embodiment described therein, there are given ranges for rotation coefficients ⁇ (pre-twist) and ⁇ '(twist twist), respectively.
  • the twist coefficient ⁇ varies in particular between 50 and 100 and the twist coefficient ⁇ 'varies between 80 and 125, while when using fiber yarns for producing the twisted sewing thread according to the invention, in particular the twist coefficient ⁇ between 90 and 130 and the Rotation coefficient ⁇ 'is between 115 and 160.
  • the sewing thread according to the invention has the construction of a swirled yarn, the swirled yarn comprising at least a first yarn component forming the core of the yarn and at least one second yarn component interlaced therewith, such that the second yarn component forms the fancy yarn component.
  • this swirled sewing thread structure gives the sewing thread according to the invention a particularly high softness and particularly skin-friendly suppleness, so that this construction is always preferably selected when the sewing thread according to the invention is for sewing used by such elastic articles which are worn directly on the skin or which are particularly tight against the skin.
  • both the first yarn component and the second yarn component are composed exclusively of multifilamentary poly-trimethylene terephthalate fibers
  • such a specific embodiment of the sewing yarn of the present invention has one high elasticity in conjunction with an optimal zugelastic Dehnungsanteil so that seams made therefrom, no Nähgarnüherinn in the. Seam must have more. Therefore, such a sewing yarn can be processed with high economy due to the above-described sewing thread saving.
  • this development also has the construction of a swirled sewing yarn, but the first yarn component, i. the core yarn component constituting the multifilamentary poly-trimethylene terephthalate fiber, while the second yarn component constituting the effect yarn component is a polyethylene terephthalate fiber and hence, in chemical structure, a conventional multifilament polyester fiber.
  • the first yarn component i. the core yarn component constituting the multifilamentary poly-trimethylene terephthalate fiber
  • the second yarn component constituting the effect yarn component is a polyethylene terephthalate fiber and hence, in chemical structure, a conventional multifilament polyester fiber.
  • the effect yarn component in particular if it has a higher single filament count and a smaller Einzelfilamenttiter compared to the core yarn component, fully or almost Completely the core yarn component, so that this embodiment of the sewing yarn according to the invention is then preferably selected for such sewing threads, which are offered in medium to dark shades.
  • this development of the sewing yarn according to the invention in medium to dark shades can be particularly true color, so that accordingly, such a dyed sewing thread according to the invention has high fastness properties and preferably high wet fastness properties.
  • the sewing thread according to the invention preferably the dyed sewing thread, in particular a hot air shrinkage at 180 ° C between 0.5% and 3 % and preferably between 0.6% and 1.5%, and a boiling shrinkage at 98 ° C in water between 0.1% and 1.5%, and preferably between 0.15% and 0.8%.
  • the hot air shrinkage at 180 ° C for 15 minutes and the boiling shrinkage in water at 98 ° C is determined during 15 minutes.
  • the strength to be provided in the sewing thread according to the invention depends on which yarn components are used for producing the sewing thread, which sewing thread construction is selected, for what purpose and in which.
  • the sewing thread according to the invention is used.
  • a preferred embodiment of the sewing yarn according to the invention has an absolute strength between 400 cN and 900 cN and specific strength between 10 cN / tex and 25 cN / tex, with a such embodiment of the sewing thread according to the invention then either the construction of a double-twisted yarn, which is preferably created using fiber yarns, or has the construction of a llustverwirbelten multifilament sewing yarn.
  • the sewing thread according to the invention which preferably have the construction of a multifilament triple thread or an air-twisted sewing thread, wherein the absolute strength in particular between 1300 cN and 1800 cN and the specific strength preferably between 45 cN / tex and 60 cN / tex, so that in summary it should be noted that the absolute strength of the sewing yarn according to the invention in particular between 400 cN and 1800 cN and the specific strength of the sewing yarn according to the invention preferably between 10 cN / tex and 60 cN / tex and preferably between 14 cN / tex and 34 cN / tex.
  • the total titre of the sewing thread according to the invention is determined by what the sewing thread according to the invention is used for and with which stitch type this sewing thread according to the invention is then sewn.
  • a total denier of the invention sewing yarn varying between 100 dtex and 1800 dtex and preferably between 200 dtex and 1200 dtex covers a variety of applications of the sewing yarn of the present invention in sewing a wide range of different elastic articles, so that the sewing thread according to the invention preferably has the aforementioned total titre.
  • Embodiments of the sewing yarn of the invention containing or consisting of a multifilament poly-trimethylene terephthalate fiber are described above.
  • these embodiments have such a poly-trimethylene terephthalate fiber whose individual filament number varies between 18 filaments and 90 filaments and in particular between 30 filaments and 60 filaments.
  • the corresponding sewing thread of the present invention made therefrom, when constructed as a double-twisted yarn, in particular between 36 filaments and 180 filaments, and when constructed as a triple-twisted yarn preferably has between 54 filaments and 270 filaments.
  • the number of filaments in a swirled sewing thread according to the invention then varying in particular between 36 and 180 filaments, if this swirled sewing thread is constructed only from a single core yarn component (first yarn component) and a single effect yarn component (second yarn component).
  • the sewing thread according to the invention is produced from a fiber yarn of poly-trimethylene terephthalate fibers, then such fibers are used for this purpose selected, the staple length preferably varies between 25 mm and 110 mm and in particular between 35 mm and 90 mm.
  • Particularly suitable embodiments of the sewing yarn according to the invention are those in which the sewing thread according to the invention has a sliding value between 130 cN and 200 cN and in particular a sliding value between 140 cN and 160 cN.
  • adhering to these gliding the sewing thread according to the invention for sewing a variety of different elastic articles can be used particularly easily, and in particular the aforementioned Gleitwert Anlagen ensures that perfectly and permanently elastic lockstitch seams are created with the sewing thread of the invention can be perceived as particularly skin-friendly especially in the laundry area.
  • the sewing thread according to the invention makes it possible for trouble-free machine production of a lockstitch seam in the case of elastic articles, so that the lockstitch seam produced in this way advantageously replaces the chainstitch seam produced today with conventional sewing yarns, such a lockstitch seam offering further aesthetic design possibilities compared to the chainstitch seam and being substantially skin-symmetrical, since it applies substantially less in comparison with the chainstitch seam. Therefore, the sewing thread according to the invention can be used particularly advantageously in particular for sewing a plurality of fabric layers arranged one above the other.
  • a further object of the present invention is to provide two processes for the production of the above-described sewing thread according to the invention, which enable a reproducible production of this sewing thread.
  • a first, fundamental possibility for producing the sewing thread according to the invention provides that two or three yarn components, which are preferably either multifilament yarn components or fiber yarn components, are pre-turned independently of one another.
  • a poly-trimethylene terephthalate fiber is selected for each yarn component.
  • Each pre-twisted yarn component has a maximum tensile strength of between 25% and 85%, preferably between 35% and 70%, and such elastic elongation is between 30% and 95%, preferably between 50% and 80%, of the elongation at a measuring force which corresponds to 70% of the absolute strength of the respective sewing thread.
  • the pre-twisted yarn components are twisted together to form a twist, and the yarn thus prepared is thereafter subjected to a hydrothermal treatment.
  • hydrothermal treatment covers any thermal treatment which is carried out with the addition of water or in an aqueous liquor itself, so that in particular as a hydrothermal treatment, a treatment in a steam atmosphere, preferably in a saturated steam atmosphere or in a superheated steam atmosphere , or a treatment in an aqueous liquor, in particular in a dyeing liquor and / or in a finishing liquor, is to be understood.
  • the above-described first possibility of the method according to the invention has the advantage that a high-performance sewing thread can be produced with relatively few production steps. Due to the small number of process steps required in the process according to the invention, the error probability is reduced, so that particularly reproducible and inexpensive sewing thread can be produced according to the invention having the advantages repeatedly mentioned above, so that to avoid repetition of the above statements on the invention Sewing yarn is referred to, which are analogous or identical to apply to the inventive method.
  • a particularly advantageous development of the above-described first possibility of the method according to the invention provides that in this case the two or three yarn components, which are preferably, as already mentioned above, either multifilament yarn components or fiber yarn components and which form the sewing thread, with a Rotation coefficient ⁇ between 50 and 130 and in particular between 70 and 100 are pre-rotated, this rotation is carried out in particular in the S direction. Subsequently, the pre-twisted yarn components are twisted together with a rotation coefficient ⁇ 'between 80 and 160 and in particular between 95 and 125.
  • the basically second possibility for producing the sewing thread according to the invention provides that at least two multifilament yarn components are intermingled with each other, wherein at least the core yarn component, but preferably each yarn component a maximum tensile force between 25% and 85%, preferably between 35% and 70%, and a has such elastic elongation, which is between 30% and 95%, preferably between 50% and 80%, of the elongation determined at a measuring force corresponding to 70% of the absolute strength of the respective sewing yarn, and wherein the fluidized yarn a hydrothermal treatment is subjected.
  • a poly-trimethylene terephthalate fiber is selected for each yarn component.
  • a further development of the method according to the invention provides that two multifilament yarn components are intermingled with each other, the first yarn component forming the core of the yarn having a lead between 2% and 15%, in particular between 3%. and 6%, and the second fancy yarn component having a lead between 5% and 40%, preferably between 17% and 30%, are fed to the fluidizing step.
  • the lead of the second yarn component is substantially higher than the lead of the first yarn component (core component), so that due to these Voreilungsunter Kunststoffe the sewing yarn thus produced an increased volume and improved softness and suppleness and increased Wearing comfort is awarded.
  • such synthetic fibers for example polyester fibers, polyamide 6 or polyamide 6.6 fibers can be selected which have the abovementioned Have maximum tensile strains and the previously specified elastic strains.
  • these yarn components, poly-trimethylene terephthalate fibers, which are a fiber yarn or a multifilament, are selected so that the sewing thread or the sewing yarn thus produced preferably consists exclusively of these multifilament poly-trimethylene terephthalate fibers and / or of fiber yarns of poly-trimethylene terephthalate fibers.
  • a particularly suitable variant of the process according to the invention provides that a multifilament poly-trimethylene terephthalate fiber is selected here as the first yarn component (core yarn component) and a multifilament polyethylene terephthalate fiber as the second yarn component to produce the entangled sewing yarn, so that over the Cross-section of the swirled sewing yarn thus produced seen the first yarn component, ie the multifilament poly-trimethylene terephthalate fiber, from the second yarn component, i. the multifilament poly-ethylene terephthalate fiber, is largely covered.
  • This variant of the method according to the invention is used in particular for producing such entangled sewing yarns intended for dyeing in medium and deep shades, since the dyed sewing yarns thereby have a high level of fastness, as already described above in the related embodiment of the sewing yarn according to the invention.
  • hydrothermal Treatment which is to be regarded as a particularly suitable embodiment of the method according to the invention, carried out at an effective temperature between 120 ° C and 200 ° C, with a relevant treatment in an aqueous liquor is particularly preferred.
  • the effective temperature is determined by means of differential thermal analysis.
  • This differential thermal analysis records the partial melting of the crystallites formed by the thermal treatment and in particular by the hydrothermal treatment in the fiber substrate in the non-crystalline regions in the form of an endothermic peak, this endothermic peak then being defined as the effective temperature of the respective thermal treatment like this in " HK Rouette, Lexicon for Textile Finishing, Laumann-Verlag, Dülmen, 1995, Volume 1, pp. 390-392 "briefly described and detailed in the Publication HJ Berndt, Dissertation TH Aachen (1971 ) "Investigation of thermo-mechanically pretreated polyethylene glycol terephthalate - a contribution to the optimization of the fixing effect and its determination” is set out in full.
  • a hydrothermal treatment is carried out, it being particularly advantageous here for the yarn to be wound onto a bobbin for the hydrothermal treatment and then the bobbin wound with the yarn for hydrothermal treatment is subjected.
  • the residence time in such a thermal treatment generally depends on the selected temperature.
  • temperatures between 80 ° C and 100 ° C such as temperatures between 80 ° C and 100 ° C
  • the residence time varies between 30 minutes and 2 hours, while at temperatures between 100 ° C and 130 ° C, the residence time between 45 minutes and 1.5 hours, preferably between 50 minutes and 70 minutes.
  • the temperatures specified above indicate the temperatures of the treatment medium and in particular the bath temperatures of the aqueous liquor.
  • a further development of the method according to the invention provides that in this case the yarn, be it the twisted sewing thread or the entangled sewing thread, is dyed and / or finished after the hydrothermal treatment.
  • this stretching of the dyed and / or finished yarn also serves in particular to further stabilize the elasticity of the sewing yarn according to the invention.
  • this temperature depends on the degree of desired stabilization of the ductile elongation, i. thus the elasticity behavior of the sewing yarn according to the invention, directed.
  • this stretching is carried out in a temperature range between room temperature and 180 ° C, wherein particularly preferably a cold drawing, i. thus a stretching between 15 ° C and 40 ° C, is performed.
  • this force preferably varies between 0.2 cN / dtex to 1.5 cN / dtex, in particular between 0.3 cN / dtex and 1 cN / dtex, the above specified values the Defining forces that act on the yarn according to the invention during the actual drawing process.
  • this stretching step can be carried out under the above-mentioned stresses.
  • a further embodiment of the method according to the invention provides that in this case also the hydrothermal treatment described above is carried out under tension.
  • a development of the method according to the invention proposes that the twisted or swirled sewing yarn is wound with tension on a spool directly after its production, in which case the stresses are preferably used, as described above for the additional stretching step has been quantified.
  • the twisted or entangled sewing yarn is wound onto the spool with such a tension that the spool has a winding density between 350 g / l and 550 g / l, in particular between 400 g / l and 550 g / L.
  • the sewing thread according to the invention or the sewing thread produced by the method according to the invention is preferably used for the manufacture of elastic articles.
  • the sewing thread according to the invention or the sewing thread produced by the method according to the invention is used for creating lockstitch seams in elastic garment parts, preferred examples of such elastic garment parts are also referred to above as elastic articles.
  • the sewing thread according to the invention is also used as an embroidery thread in a machine creation of embroidery pattern, preferably plastic embroidery patterns in elastic articles, since it also has excellent running properties with a minimized susceptibility to mechanical Versticken for this application.
  • the thus pre-twisted rovings were twisted to form a triple twine with a twist of 615 turns / m in the Z direction.
  • the yarn thus obtained was wound up on a bobbin directly on the twisting machine, the winding density being 450 g / l.
  • the cheese thus prepared was then subjected to a hydrothermal treatment in an aqueous liquor, the aqueous liquor consisting exclusively of water.
  • the residence time for this hydrothermal treatment was 60 minutes at a final temperature of 120 ° C.
  • the bobbin was then dyed in a conventional dyeing autoclave at 120 ° C for 60 minutes, as is common for a polyester fiber.
  • the heating characteristic of this dyeing corresponded to the heating characteristics described above in the hydrothermal treatment.
  • This maximum tensile force in the example chosen was 752 cN, as summarized in Table 1.
  • each load cycle comprises stretching the sewing thread with a force corresponding to 70% of the maximum tensile force and then relaxing it to a tensile force of 20 cN (corresponding to the measured base load). This measurement was carried out on the basis of DIN 53835.
  • the total elongation, hereinafter referred to as "GD" of the sewing yarn and the mean value of the elongations to which the sewing yarn originates in each discharge are determined. This mean will be referred to as "MD" below.
  • the measuring principle is based on that the sewing thread to be tested is withdrawn at a constant speed of 2 m / min, after previously the sewing yarn has been guided by a loaded tension disk arrangement, as it corresponds to the tension disk arrangements usual on sewing machines.
  • the force required for the removal of the sewing yarn which is indicated in Table 1 as a floating value, measured.
  • the tension disc assembly used consists of two, pressed against each other tension discs made of polished stainless steel.
  • a commercially available standard sewing thread type Serafil 80 (3-fold twist, polyethylene terephthalate, endless, manufacturer: Amann) is used.
  • the load on the tension discs is changed during the withdrawal of the standard sewing thread at the aforementioned speed until a running value of 110 cN for this standard sewing thread is determined.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
EP04008559.9A 2003-05-05 2004-04-08 Nähgarn sowie Verfahren zur Herstellung eines derartigen Nähgarnes Expired - Lifetime EP1479802B1 (de)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
PL04008559T PL1479802T3 (pl) 2003-05-05 2004-04-08 Nić do szycia oraz sposób wytwarzania tego typu nici do szycia

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE10320099 2003-05-05
DE10320099 2003-05-05

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EP1479802A1 EP1479802A1 (de) 2004-11-24
EP1479802B1 true EP1479802B1 (de) 2016-02-24

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EP04008559.9A Expired - Lifetime EP1479802B1 (de) 2003-05-05 2004-04-08 Nähgarn sowie Verfahren zur Herstellung eines derartigen Nähgarnes

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US (2) US6905764B2 (pl)
EP (1) EP1479802B1 (pl)
DE (1) DE102004018121A1 (pl)
ES (1) ES2567435T3 (pl)
PL (1) PL1479802T3 (pl)

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KR100686299B1 (ko) * 2003-01-08 2007-02-26 솔로텍스 가부시끼가이샤 재봉사 및 직물 봉제품
DE50306545D1 (de) * 2003-06-26 2007-03-29 Klaus Bloch Angelschnur
DE20316079U1 (de) * 2003-10-16 2005-05-04 Puma Aktiengesellschaft Rudolf Dassler Sport Spielerbekleidung
US7401460B2 (en) * 2004-08-13 2008-07-22 Klaus Bloch Textile thread having a polytetrafluoroethylene wrapped core
DE102005013186A1 (de) * 2005-03-22 2006-09-28 Invista Technologies S.A.R.L. Nähgarn aus Polybutylenterephthalat
EP2222480B1 (en) * 2007-10-24 2011-07-27 Pirelli Tyre S.P.A. Tire having a structural element reinforced with a hybrid yarn

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JPS4841783B1 (pl) * 1969-10-08 1973-12-08
IL71041A (en) * 1984-02-23 1986-07-31 Shenkar College Textile Tech Yarns and threads and their use in the fabrication of textile products
DE4121638C2 (de) * 1990-08-17 1993-11-04 Amann & Soehne Garn, insbesondere naehgarn, sowie verfahren zur herstellung eines derartigen garnes
JP3789030B2 (ja) * 1997-09-29 2006-06-21 旭化成せんい株式会社 高強度ポリエステル繊維およびその製造法
KR100368781B1 (ko) * 1998-01-27 2003-01-24 아사히 가세이 가부시키가이샤 복합 권축 가공사
ATE298810T1 (de) * 2000-03-15 2005-07-15 Shell Int Research Poly(trimethylene) terephthalate textil stapelfaserherstellung
CN1190534C (zh) * 2000-03-30 2005-02-23 旭化成株式会社 单丝及其制造方法
JP2001348749A (ja) * 2000-04-04 2001-12-21 Toray Ind Inc 縫 糸
JP2002054047A (ja) * 2000-08-08 2002-02-19 Teijin Ltd ミシン糸
WO2002031241A1 (en) * 2000-10-06 2002-04-18 Asahi Kasei Kabushiki Kaisha Spun yarn
US20020139465A1 (en) * 2001-01-19 2002-10-03 Fidan Mehmet Sadettin Wrapped cord
KR100686299B1 (ko) * 2003-01-08 2007-02-26 솔로텍스 가부시끼가이샤 재봉사 및 직물 봉제품

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PL1479802T3 (pl) 2016-06-30
US20040265580A1 (en) 2004-12-30
EP1479802A1 (de) 2004-11-24
US7159379B2 (en) 2007-01-09
US20050144927A1 (en) 2005-07-07
ES2567435T3 (es) 2016-04-22
DE102004018121A1 (de) 2004-12-09
US6905764B2 (en) 2005-06-14

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