EP0665904B1 - Traitement de fibres - Google Patents

Traitement de fibres Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0665904B1
EP0665904B1 EP93923021A EP93923021A EP0665904B1 EP 0665904 B1 EP0665904 B1 EP 0665904B1 EP 93923021 A EP93923021 A EP 93923021A EP 93923021 A EP93923021 A EP 93923021A EP 0665904 B1 EP0665904 B1 EP 0665904B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
fibre
cellulose
chemical reagent
process according
fabric
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EP93923021A
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German (de)
English (en)
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EP0665904A1 (fr
Inventor
Christopher David Potter
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Courtaulds Fibres Holdings Ltd
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Courtaulds Fibres Holdings Ltd
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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M13/10—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing oxygen
    • D06M13/224—Esters of carboxylic acids; Esters of carbonic acid
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01F—CHEMICAL FEATURES IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS; APPARATUS SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CARBON FILAMENTS
    • D01F2/00—Monocomponent artificial filaments or the like of cellulose or cellulose derivatives; Manufacture thereof
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M13/322—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing nitrogen
    • D06M13/35—Heterocyclic compounds
    • D06M13/355—Heterocyclic compounds having six-membered heterocyclic rings
    • D06M13/358—Triazines
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M13/322—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing nitrogen
    • D06M13/402—Amides imides, sulfamic acids
    • D06M13/41—Amides derived from unsaturated carboxylic acids, e.g. acrylamide

Definitions

  • This invention is concerned with improvements in methods of reducing the fibrillation tendency of solvent-spun cellulose fibre.
  • cellulose fibre can be made by extrusion of a solution of cellulose in a suitable solvent into a coagulating bath.
  • a solvent such as a tertiary amine N-oxide, for example N-methylmorpholine N-oxide.
  • the resulting solution is then extruded through a suitable die into an aqueous bath to produce an assembly of filaments which is washed in water to remove the solvent and is subsequently dried.
  • solvent-spinning the cellulose fibre produced thereby is referred to as "solvent-spun” cellulose fibre.
  • Solvent-spun cellulose fibre is to be distinguished from cellulose fibre made by other known processes which rely on the formation of a soluble chemical derivative of cellulose and its subsequent decomposition to regenerate the cellulose, for example the viscose process.
  • Fibre may exhibit a tendency to fibrillate, particularly when subjected to mechanical stress in the wet state. Fibrillation occurs when fibre structure breaks down in the longitudinal direction so that fine fibrils become partially detached from the fibre, giving a hairy appearance to the fibre and to fabric containing it, for example woven or knitted fabric. Dyed fabric containing fibrillated fibre tends to have a "frosted" appearance, which may be aesthetically undesirable. Such fibrillation is believed to be caused by mechanical abrasion of the fibres during treatment in a wet and swollen state. Wet treatment processes such as dyeing processes inevitably subject fibres to mechanical abrasion. Higher temperatures and longer times of treatment generally tend to produce greater degrees of fibrillation.
  • Solvent-spun cellulose fibre appears to be particularly sensitive to such abrasion and is consequently often found to be more susceptible to fibrillation than other types of cellulose fibre.
  • the present invention is concerned with the treatment of solvent-spun cellulose fibre so as to reduce or inhibit its tendency to fibrillate. It has however been found that some such treatments may have detrimental effects on the mechanical properties of the fibre such as its tenacity and extensibility, for example by embrittling the fibre, or on the processability of the fibre and fabric, in particular its dyeability. It can be difficult to identify a method of treatment which provides a satisfactory reduction in fibrillation tendency while avoiding such detrimental effects.
  • EP-A-538,977 describes a process for providing a solvent-spun cellulose fibre with a reduced fibrillation tendency, in which process the fibre is treated with a chemical reagent having two to six functional groups reactive with cellulose. It states that the untreated fibre and the treated fibre are preferably of substantially the same colour and that the functional groups reactive with cellulose are those generally used in fibre-reactive dyes for cellulose, for example as described in an article entitled "Dyes, Reactive" in Kirk-Othmer, Encyclopaedia of Chemical Technology, 3rd edition, Volume 8 (1979, Wiley-Interscience) at pages 374-392.
  • Preferred examples of such functional groups are said to be reactive halogen atoms attached to a polyazine ring, for example fluorine, chlorine or bromine atoms attached to a pyridazine, pyrimidine or sym-triazine ring.
  • Other examples of such functional groups are said to include vinyl sulphones and precursors thereof.
  • the great majority of the chemical reagents utilised in the Examples in EP-A-538,977 contain halogen atoms attached to a polyazine ring as the only functional groups reactive with cellulose, but one commercial dyestuff which is used in the Examples contains as the functional groups one chlorine atom and one vinyl sulphone group attached to a triazine ring.
  • FR-A-2273091 describes a method of manufacturing polynosic viscose rayon fibre with reduced tendency to fibrillation.
  • the fibre is treated in the primary gel state characteristic of polynosic viscose rayon manufacture with a crosslinking agent containing at least two acrylamido groups and an alkaline catalyst.
  • This primary polynosic gel is a highly swollen gel having a water imbibition of 190-200%, which is found only in polynosic viscose rayon that has never been dried. Water imbibition is defined as the weight of water retained per unit weight of bone-dry material.
  • never-dried conventional viscose rayon fibre is known generally to have a water imbibition in the range 120-150%.
  • Triacryloyl-hexahydro-1,3,5-triazine and N,N'-methylenebisacrylamide are mentioned in FR-A-2273091 as preferred examples of crosslinking agent.
  • the present invention provides in one aspect a process for the manufacture of solvent-spun cellulose fibre with a reduced tendency to fibrillation wherein the fibre is treated with a chemical reagent containing two or more functional groups reactive with cellulose, characterised in that the fibre has previously been dried and in that the reagent contains as functional groups reactive with cellulose at least two groups selected from the class consisting of electrophilic carbon-carbon double bonds and precursors thereof and electrophilic three-membered heterocyclic rings and precursors thereof.
  • the present invention includes the proviso that at least two of said functional groups are groups other than vinylsulphone groups or precursors thereof.
  • the present invention provides in another aspect a process for the manufacture of solvent-spun cellulose fibre with a reduced tendency to fibrillation wherein the fibre is treated with a chemical reagent containing two or more functional groups reactive with cellulose, characterised in that the fibre has previously been dried and in that the reagent reacts with the cellulose with the formation of at least two aliphatic ether groups.
  • These aliphatic ether groups are derived from cellulose hydroxyl groups.
  • the chemical reagent preferably contains electrophilic carbon-carbon double bonds as the functional groups reactive with cellulose.
  • the electrophilic carbon-carbon double bonds are activated towards addition of a nucleophile and are polarised by substitution with at least one electron-withdrawing group.
  • Cellulose contains hydroxyl groups which react with the electrophilic carbon-carbon double bonds in the chemical reagent by Michael addition to form ether groups.
  • Electrophilic carbon-carbon double bonds substituted with a single electron-withdrawing group are generally preferred. Examples of suitable electron-withdrawing groups include carbonyl groups, for example amide or ester groups, and sulphone groups. Preferred examples of such functional groups include acrylamido and acrylate ester groups.
  • Precursors of electrophilic carbon-carbon double bonds include beta- sulphatoethyl sulphone and beta-chloroethyl sulphone groups.
  • the carbon-carbon double bond is preferably the double bond in a vinyl group.
  • a preferred example of such a functional group is the vinyl sulphone group.
  • Additional substitution on the double bond generally reduces the reactivity of the bond towards addition of a nucleophile.
  • the hydroxyl groups in cellulose react with such reagents to form -XCH 2 CH 2 O-groups, wherein X represents an electron-withdrawing group such as -CO- or -SO 2 - and the oxygen atom is derived from a cellulose hydroxyl group.
  • the chemical reagent may alternatively contain electrophilic three-membered heterocyclic rings as the functional groups reactive with cellulose.
  • such rings are aziridine rings, in which the carbon atoms are preferably unsubstituted and the nitrogen atom is a tertiary nitrogen atom.
  • the hydroxyl groups in cellulose react with the aziridine rings in such reagents to open the ring with the formation of an -NHCH 2 CH 2 O- group, wherein the cellulose is linked to the reagent by an ether group.
  • precursors of aziridine rings include 2-chloroethylamino, 2-sulphatoethylamino, 2-chloroethylamido and 2-chloroethyl-sulphonamido groups.
  • the bonds in the chemical reagent are preferably resistant to chemical hydrolysis under the conditions normally experienced in fabric processing and laundering, and chemical reagents in which the functional groups are vinyl sulphone groups or particularly acrylamido groups may therefore be preferred.
  • the functional groups in the reagent may be the same or different.
  • the chemical reagent may additionally contain one or more functional groups of types other than electrophilic carbon-carbon double bonds, for example reactive halogen atoms attached to a polyazine ring.
  • the method of treatment of the invention has the advantage that the bonds formed between the reagent and cellulose resist chemical hydrolysis under the conditions normally experienced in fabric processing and laundering, in particular chemical hydrolysis by mild alkali. These bonds are aliphatic ether groups. It has been found that when solvent-spun cellulose fibre is treated instead with a reagent of the halogenated polyazine type, as described in EP-A-538,977, the reduction in fibrillation tendency so obtained tends to be lost when fabric containing the treated fibre is scoured and laundered. Such reagents react with cellulose to form a multiplicity of aromatic/aliphatic ether groups which are believed to be prone to chemical hydrolysis during fabric processing and laundering.
  • fibre-reactive dyestuffs containing vinyl sulphone and in particular acryloylamino (acrylamido) groups are less reactive towards cellulose than dyestuffs which are reactive acid chlorides (imide chlorides), in particular dichlorotriazine and dichloropyrimidine reactive dyes. It was therefore surprising to find that such less reactive groups are highly effective in a treatment to reduce fibrillation tendency.
  • the chemical reagent generally contains as functional groups reactive with cellulose two to six, preferably three to six, often three or four, commonly three, electrophilic carbon-carbon double bonds or three-membered heterocyclic rings or precursors of either of these.
  • the chemical reagent preferably contains at least one ring with at least three, in particular three, cellulose-reactive functional groups attached thereto. Examples of such rings are polyazine rings, for example diazine or triazine rings, which may be hydrogenated.
  • a preferred example of the reagent is triacryloylhexahydrotriazine (1,3,5-tripropenoylperhydro-1,3,5-triazine, abbreviated as TAHT), which has previously been suggested as a dye fixative.
  • reagent examples include the reaction product of two molecules of TAHT with one molecule of a bifunctional reagent capable of reacting with TAHT, for example an aliphatic diol.
  • a bifunctional reagent capable of reacting with TAHT
  • Another example of the reagent is 2,4,6-tris(1-aziridinyl)-1,3,5-triazine.
  • a further example of the reagent is N,N'-methylenebisacrylamide.
  • Solvent-spun fibre which has been treated by the process of the invention is preferably of substantially the same colour as the untreated fibre. This can be achieved by the use of a chemical reagent which is substantially colourless and so does not substantially alter the colour of the fibre by the treatment, for example TAHT. Such treated fibre is thereafter suitable for dyeing in any manner known for cellulose fibres, yarns or fabrics.
  • the chemical reagent is preferably applied to the fibre in the form of an aqueous solution.
  • the chemical reagent may contain one or more solubilising groups to enhance its solubility in water.
  • a solubilising group may be an ionic species, for example a sulphonic acid group, or a nonionic species, for example an oligomeric poly(ethylene glycol) or poly(propylene glycol) chain. Nonionic species generally have less effect on the essential dyeing characteristics of the cellulose fibre than ionic species and may be preferred for this reason.
  • the solubilising group may be attached to the chemical reagent by a labile bond, for example a bond which is susceptible to hydrolysis after the chemical reagent has reacted with the cellulose fibre.
  • the wet fibre at the end of step (iii) is never-dried fibre and typically has a water imbibition in the range 120-150%.
  • the dried fibre after step (iv) typically has a water imbibition of around 60-80%.
  • Solvent-spun cellulose fibre is treated according to the process of the invention after it has been dried, that is to say subsequent to step (iv).
  • the process of the invention may be carried out using conventional techniques for fibre-reactive dyeing of cellulose, in which the chemical reagent is used in the same manner as or a similar manner to a reactive dyestuff.
  • the process may be carried out on tow or staple fibre, yarn or woven or knitted fabric. It is preferably carried out on fabric prior to any dyeing process and further preferably during a scouring treatment, although it may alternatively be carried out concurrently with or subsequently to a dyeing process or in both a scouring process and a dyeing process.
  • Conventional dyestuffs for cellulose for example direct or reactive dyestuffs, may be used in such dyeing processes.
  • the process of the invention may be carried out using a dye bath which contains both a conventional reactive dyestuff and the chemical reagent.
  • the functional groups in any such dyestuffs and reagents may be the same or different chemical species.
  • the fibrillation tendency of cellulose fibre can be reduced by use of the process of the invention without markedly reducing the dyeability of the fibre. It has been found possible to strip dye from dyed fibre or fabric treated according to the invention and subsequently to re-dye it without excessive fibrillation. The fibre or fabric continues to exhibit a low fibrillation tendency after the relatively severe type of chemical treatment required to strip dye from a fibre or fabric.
  • the electrophilic carbon-carbon double bonds in the chemical reagent used in the process of the invention may react most rapidly with cellulose under alkaline conditions. It may therefore be preferred to treat the solvent-spun fibre with a mildly alkaline aqueous solution of the chemical reagent, for example from an aqueous solution made alkaline by the addition of sodium carbonate (soda ash) or sodium hydroxide.
  • a mildly alkaline aqueous solution of the chemical reagent for example from an aqueous solution made alkaline by the addition of sodium carbonate (soda ash) or sodium hydroxide.
  • the pH of the solution is preferably in the range 10 to 13, more preferably 10.5 to 11.5.
  • the fibre may be treated using a two-stage technique, in which the fibre is treated firstly with mild aqueous alkali and secondly with the solution of the chemical reagent, although this may generally be less preferred. Such initial treatment of a fibre or fabric with alkali is known in the dyeing trade as
  • the electrophilic groups in the chemical reagent may react with cellulose at room temperature, but it is generally preferable to apply heat to induce a substantial extent of reaction.
  • the reagent may be applied using a hot solution, or the fibre wetted with the reagent may be heated or steamed, or the wetted fibre may be heated to dry it. If the fibre or fabric is steamed, then low-pressure steam is preferably used, for example at a temperature of 100 to 110°C, and the steaming time may be for example 5 to 20 minutes.
  • the fibre may be rinsed with a mildly acidic aqueous solution, for example a weak solution of acetic acid, after reaction of the chemical reagent with the cellulose in order to neutralise any added alkali.
  • a mildly acidic aqueous solution for example a weak solution of acetic acid
  • the fibre may be treated so as to react with 0.1 to 10%, preferably 0.2 to 5%, more preferably 0.5 to 3%, further preferably 1 to 2%, by weight of the chemical reagent, based on the weight of fibre.
  • the chemical reagent may be reacted with the cellulose fibre so that less than 10% and preferably less than 5% of the dye sites on the cellulose fibre are occupied, so as to permit subsequent dyeing of the fibre with coloured dyes, which may or may not be reactive dyes.
  • Knitted fabric has been generally found to be more susceptible to fibrillation than woven fabric.
  • Fabric 5 treated by the process of the invention may subsequently be processed, in particular dyed, in open width or by methods which tend to subject the fabric to more severe abrasion, for example in rope form, including jet treatment.
  • Knitted fabric is only rarely processed in open width and is preferably treated in rope form.
  • Woven fabric is commonly processed in open width rather than in rope form to avoid the generation of unsightly marks and creases.
  • fibre or fabric can be treated during a conventional wet processing stage and that therefore no additional processing time or step is needed.
  • the cost of machine time is a significant element of the cost of fibre or fabric processing and may outweigh the cost of the chemicals used.
  • Cellulose fibre may be treated with a cellulase enzyme to remove surface fibrils.
  • the cellulase enzyme may be in the form of an aqueous solution, and the concentration may be in the range 0.5% to 5%, preferably 1% to 3%, by weight.
  • the pH of the solution may be in the range 4 to 6.
  • the fabric may be treated at a temperature in the range 20°C to 70°C, preferably 40°C to 65°C, further preferably 50°C to 60°C, for a period in the range 15 minutes to 4 hours. This cellulase treatment may be utilised to remove fibrils from solvent-spun fibres, yarns and fabrics which have been treated with a chemical reagent according to the method of the invention.
  • Test Method 1 Solvent-spun cellulose fibre commercially available from Courtaulds Fibres Limited under the Trade Mark 'Tencel' was used in all cases. Materials were assessed for degree of fibrillation using the method described below as Test Method 1 and assessed for fibrillation tendency using the techniques described below as Test Methods 2-4.
  • Fibrillation Index There is no universally accepted standard for assessment of fibrillation, and the following method was used to assess Fibrillation Index (F.I.).
  • F.I. Fibrillation Index
  • a series of samples of fibre having nil and increasing amounts of fibrillation was identified.
  • a standard length of fibre from each sample was then measured and the number of fibrils (fine hairy spurs extending from the main body of the fibre) along the standard length was counted.
  • the length of each fibril was measured, and an arbitrary number, being the product of the number of fibrils multiplied by the average length of each fibril, was determined for each fibre.
  • the fibre exhibiting the highest value of this product was identified as being the most fibrillated fibre and was assigned an arbitrary Fibrillation Index of 10.
  • the wholly unfibrillated fibre was assigned a Fibrillation Index of zero, and the remaining fibres were evenly ranged from 0 to 10 based on the microscopically measured arbitrary numbers.
  • the measured fibres were then used to form a standard graded scale.
  • To determine the Fibrillation Index for any other sample of fibre five or ten fibres were visually compared under the microscope with the standard graded fibres. The visually determined numbers for each fibre were then averaged to give a Fibrillation Index for the sample under test. It will be appreciated that visual determination and averaging is many times quicker than measurement, and it has been found that skilled fibre technologists are consistent in their rating of fibres.
  • Fibrillation Index of fabrics was assessed on fibres drawn from the surface of the fabric. Woven fabrics having an F.I. of more than about 2.0 to 2.5 exhibited an unsightly appearance.
  • 1 g fibre was placed in a stainless steel cylinder approximately 25 cm long by 4 cm diameter and having a capacity of approximately 250 ml.
  • 50 ml conventional scouring solution containing 2 g/l Detergyl FS955 (an anionic detergent available from ICI plc) (Detergyl is a Trade Mark) and 2 g/l sodium carbonate was added, a screw cap fitted and the capped cylinder tumbled end-over-end at 60 tumbles per minute for 60 minutes at 95°C.
  • the scoured fibre was then rinsed with hot and cold water.
  • the cylinder was then capped once more and tumbled for 60 minutes.
  • the fibre was rinsed with water.
  • 50 ml solution containing 2 ml/l Sandopur SR (a detergent available from Sandoz AG) (Sandopur is a Trade Mark) was then added and the cylinder capped.
  • the cylinder was then tumbled as before for 20 minutes at 100°C.
  • the dyed fibre was then rinsed and dried. It was then assessed for fibrillation using Test Method 1.
  • Test Method 4 provides more severe fibrillating conditions than Test Method 2.
  • Sample 1 was padded with a solution containing TAHT (20 g/l), Na3PO 4 (10 g/l) and Na 2 SO 4 (25 g/l) and then heated at 70°C for 6 minutes.
  • Sample 2 was padded with a solution containing TAHT (30 g/l), urea (100 g/l) and Na 2 CO 3 (10 g/l) and then steamed at 100°C for 20 minutes.
  • Sample 3 was first padded with a solution containing Na 2 CO 3 (2 g/l) at 70°C and then padded with a solution containing TAHT (20 g/l), Na 2 CO 3 (8 g/l) and Na 2 SO 4 (25 g/l) at 70°C.
  • Woven fabric of solvent-spun cellulose fibre (123 gm-2 standard weave of 20 tex ring-spun yarn of 1.7 dtex fibre) was padded with an aqueous solution of TAHT (20 g/l), Na 2 CO 3 (10 g/l) and Na 2 SO 4 (25 g/l) and heated for 15 minutes at 70°C (Sample 1).
  • a control sample was treated in the same way except that the TAHT was omitted.
  • Another sample of fabric was padded with an aqueous solution of TAHT (20 g/l) and NaOH (20 g/l) and heated for 30 minutes at 40°C (Sample 2). The samples of fabric were then dyed under the following conditions.
  • the sample was immersed in a bath containing Procion Navy H4R (4% by weight on fabric) (a monochloro-triazine reactive dye available from ICI plc) (Procion is a Trade Mark), Matexil PAL (3 g/l) (a mild oxidising agent-nitrobenzenesulphonic acid-available from ICI plc) (Matexil is a Trade Mark) and Depsolube ACA (1 g/l) (an alkali-stable lubricant supplied for use in jet dyeing by ICI plc) (Depsolube is a Trade Mark) at 25°C. The temperature was raised to 80°C while sufficient NaCl was added in three portions to give 70 g/l.
  • a woven fabric of solvent-spun cellulose as used in Example 1 was scoured in open width with a solution containing Detergyl (2 g/l), alkali (2 g/l), TAHT (20 g/l) and Na 2 SO 4 (25 g/l) and heated at 95°C for 1 hour.
  • the nitrogen content of the scoured and dried fibre was measured by the Kjeldahl technique, and the results were expressed in terms of TAHT content by weight of the fabric.
  • a sample of fabric treated in the same way but with the omission of TAHT was used as control.
  • the samples of fabric were then dyed with the direct dye Solophenyl Red 3BL (available from Ciba-Geigy AG) (Solophenyl is a Trade Mark) in rope form on a winch, as follows.
  • the fibre was immersed in a bath containing the dye (4% by weight of fabric) at 50°C, the temperature was raised to 100°C over 30 minutes and held there for 15 minutes, sufficient Na 2 SO 4 was added to give 20 g/l, and the temperature was maintained for a further 45 minutes, after which the fabric was washed and dried.
  • the samples of fabric were then repeatedly washed and tumble-dried, with F.I.
  • Sample 3 dyed to a paler shade than the other samples, and it is thought that this sample may have been overloaded with TAHT.
  • a woven fabric of solvent-spun cellulose staple fibre as used in Example 1 was scoured in open width using a solution of Detergyl (2 g/l) and Na 2 CO 3 (2 g/l) for 1 hour at 95°C.
  • the fabric was then subjected to a series of treatments on a winch dyeing machine in rope form.
  • the first treatment was with a solution containing TAHT (20 g/l), Na 2 CO 3 (2 g/l) and Na 2 SO 4 (30 g/l) at 20°C for 10 minutes.
  • Sufficient Drimarene Orange K3R (a dichlorofluoropyrimidine reactive dye available from Sandoz AG) (Drimarene is a Trade Mark) was then added to give 4% by weight on fibre.
  • Fabric samples of solvent-spun cellulose fibre as used in Example 1 were scoured using a solution of TAHT (20 g/l), Detergyl (2 g/l), Na 2 CO 3 (2 g/l) and Na 2 SO 4 (20 g/l) at 95°C for 1 hour. Control samples were scoured in the same way except that the TAHT was omitted. Scouring was performed either in open form on a jig or in rope form on a winch. The samples were then dyed in rope form on a winch in the following manner.
  • the fabric was treated with a bath containing Procion Green H4G (a monofunctional reactive dye available from ICI plc) (4% by weight on fabric), Depsolube ACA (1 g/l) (an alkali-stable lubricant supplied for use in jet dyeing by ICI plc) (Depsolube is a Trade Mark) and Matexil PAL (a mild oxidising agent - nitrobenzenesulphonic acid - used as a textile auxiliary to prevent dye reduction) (Matexil is a Trade Mark of ICI plc) (3 g/l).
  • Procion Green H4G a monofunctional reactive dye available from ICI plc
  • Depsolube ACA an alkali-stable lubricant supplied for use in jet dyeing by ICI plc
  • Matexil PAL a mild oxidising agent - nitrobenzenesulphonic acid - used as a textile auxiliary to prevent dye reduction
  • the fabric was run through the bath for 10 minutes at 20°C; the temperature was then raised to 80°C while NaCl (70 g/l) was added in portions; the temperature was maintained at 80°C for 20 minutes; Na 2 CO 3 (20 g/l) was added over 10 minutes; and the temperature was maintained at 80°C for 60 minutes.
  • the fabric was then rinsed and soaped off in a bath containing Sandopur SR (2 g/l) (a detergent available from Sandoz AG) (Sandopur is a Trade Mark) for 20 minutes at 95°C.
  • Sandopur SR 2 g/l
  • the fabrics were then subjected to repeated wash and tumble-dry cycles and the following results for F.I.
  • a single-jersey knitted fabric of solvent-spun cellulose fibre was fully processed on a jet-dyeing machine. This type of machine provides the harshest of all common processing conditions and is therefore the most likely to cause severe abrasion.
  • the fabric was first scoured with a bath containing TAHT (20 g/l), Na 2 SO 4 (25 g/l), Depsolube ACA (1 g/l), Na 2 CO 3 (2 g/l) and Sandopur SR (2 g/l) at 50°C for 10 minutes. The temperature was raised to 95°C and maintained at that value for 60 minutes. The fabric was then rinsed with hot water.
  • the fabric contained 5.16% by weight TAHT calculated from its nitrogen content (assessed by the Kjeldahl method).
  • the side of the fabric exposed to the jet had F.I. 0.2, and this value remained unchanged through 35 wash and tumble-dry cycles.
  • the side of the fabric exposed to the jet undergoes the most severe treatment and garments are normally made up with this side facing inwards.
  • a woven fabric of solvent-spun cellulose fibre (115 gm-2 standard weave of 20 tex ring-spun yarn of 1.7 dtex fibre) was scoured with a solution containing TAHT (20 g/l), Detergyl (2 g/l), Na 2 CO 3 (2 g/l) and Na 2 SO 4 (25 g/l) for 1 hour at 95°C.
  • a control sample was scoured in the same way but with the omission of TAHT.
  • the samples of fabric were then dyed with Procion Brown H3R (4% by weight on fabric) (a monochlorotriazine reactive dye available from ICI plc) (Procion is a Trade Mark) in the following manner.
  • a woven fabric of solvent-spun cellulose fibre was scoured with a solution of TAHT (20 g/l), Detergyl (2 g/l), Na 2 CO 3 (2 g/l) Na 2 SO 4 (25 g/l) for 1 hour at 95°C.
  • a control sample was scoured in the same way, except that the TAHT was omitted.
  • the treated and control samples were then dyed with either a direct or a reactive dye; treated to strip the dye from the fabric; redyed with the same dye as before; and subjected to a number of wash and tumble-dry (W/T) cycles. Fibrillation Index was assessed at each stage.
  • Direct dye, neutral bath method Immerse the fabric in a solution of Sirius Super Violet F2BLL (4% by weight on fabric) (available from Bayer AG) (Sirius is a Trade Mark) and Na 2 SO 4 (18 g/l) at room temperature; raise the temperature to 97°C over 45 minutes; maintain temperature for 1 hour; rinse and dry.
  • Sirius Super Violet F2BLL 40% by weight on fabric
  • Na 2 SO 4 18. g/l
  • Reactive dye standard method: Immerse the fabric in a solution of Procion Red MX-8B (4% by weight on fabric) (available from ICI plc) (Procion is a Trade Mark) at 40°C; maintain temperature for 10 minutes; add sufficient NaCl to give 60 g/l; maintain temperature for 30 minutes; add sufficient Na 2 CO 3 to give 5 g/l; maintain temperature for 30 minutes; rinse; soap off using a solution of soap flakes (2 g/l) for 15 minutes at 100°C; dry.
  • Method A Treat fabric with a solution of Na 2 CO 3 (6 g/l) and sodium hydrosulphite (6 g/l) for 1 hour at 100°C.
  • Method B Treat fabric with a solution of sodium hypochlorite (10 g/l) for 20 minutes in the cold followed by addition of a sufficient amount of a solution of sodium bisulphite or thiosulphate (2.5 g/l) to destroy the residual hypochlorite.
  • Method C Method A followed by Method B.
  • Woven solvent-spun cellulose fabric as used in Example 1 was scoured at different values of pH using a solution of TAHT (10 g/l), Detergyl FS955 (2 g/l), Na 2 SO 4 (5 g/l) and alkali at 95°C for 1 hour.
  • a control sample was scoured using a solution of Detergyl (2 g/l) and Na 2 CO 3 (2 g/l) at 95°C for 1 hour.
  • the liquor to fabric ratio was 10:1.
  • the samples were then treated with a solution of Procion Red HE-7B (4% by weight on fibre) (available from ICI plc), Matexil PAL (3 g/l) and Depsolube ACA (1 g/l) at 25°C; the temperature was raised to 80°C over 30 minutes while sufficient NaCl was added to give 70 g/l; the temperature was maintained for 20 minutes; sufficient Na 2 CO 3 was added to give 20 g/l; the temperature was maintained for 60 minutes; then the fabric was rinsed and soaped off using a solution of Sandopur SR (2 g/l) for 20 minutes at 95°C. The liquor to fabric ratio was 70:1. The dried fabric was subjected to five wash and tumble-dry cycles.
  • Woven or knitted solvent-spun cellulose fabric as used in Example 1 was treated on a winch with a solution containing TAHT (various amounts), Detergyl (2 g/l), Na 2 CO 3 (10 g/l) and Na 2 SO 4 (5 g/l) for 1 hour at 95°C.
  • a control sample was scoured using a solution of Detergyl (2 g/l) and Na 2 CO 3 (2 g/l) for 1 hour at 95°C.
  • the liquor to fabric ratio was 15:1.
  • the samples were then dyed with Procion Red HE-7B in the manner described in Example 8 and subjected to a single wash and tumble-dry cycle. The following F.I. results were obtained: TAHT g/l F.I.
  • Woven solvent-spun cellulose fabric as used in Example 1 was scoured using a solution of TAHT (20 g/l), Detergyl (2 g/l), Na 2 CO 3 (2 g/l) and Na 2 SO 4 (25 g/l) at 95°C for 1 hour.
  • a control sample was scoured in the same way expet that the TAHT was omitted.
  • the fabric samples were then bleached by immersion in a solution of hydrogen peroxide (15 ml of 35% solution per litre), Prestogen PC (1 g/l) (a bleach stabiliser available from BASF AG) (Prestogen is a Trade Mark), Trilon C (0.5 g/l) (Trilon is a Trade Mark of BASF AG) and NaOH (1 g/l) at 50°C, after which the temperature was raised to 85°C and maintained there for 60 minutes, following which the samples were rinsed. The samples were then dyed with Procion Brown H3R in the manner described in Example 6. The following results were obtained for F.I.
  • Woven solvent-spun cellulose fabric as used in Example 1 was loaded into a dyeing machine containing a bath which was an aqueous solution at 50°C containing an anionic or nonionic lubricant.
  • the fabric was passed through the bath to wet it and TAHT (4 g/l) was then added to the bath followed by Na 2 CO 3 (10 g/l) and Na 2 SO 4 (5 g/l) to give pH 10.5-11.5.
  • the temperature of the bath was raised to 95°C while the fabric continued to be passed through the bath, and this temperature was maintained for 1 hour. These treatment conditions have been found to give good fixation and resistance to fibrillation.
  • the target fixation level for the TAHT was more than 1%, preferably 1.2-1.5%, by weight on fabric.
  • the fabric was then soaped off and dried to provide a fabric with a low fibrillation tendency.

Claims (18)

  1. Procédé de fabrication de fibre de cellulose filée dans du solvant, ayant une tendance réduite à la fibrillation, dans lequel de la fibre de cellulose filée dans du solvant est traitée par un réactif chimique contenant deux groupes fonctionnels ou plus réactifs vis-à-vis de la cellulose, caractérisé en ce que la fibre soumise au traitement a été préalablement séchée et en ce que le réactif chimique contient, en tant que groupes fonctionnels réactifs vis-à-vis de la cellulose, au moins deux groupes choisis parmi la catégorie constituée de doubles liaisons carbone-carbone électrophiles et de leurs précurseurs et de noyaux hétérocycliques à trois chaínons électrophiles et de leurs précurseurs.
  2. Procédé de fabrication de fibre de cellulose filée dans du solvant, ayant une tendance réduite à la fibrillation, dans lequel de la fibre de cellulose filée dans du solvant est traitée par un réactif chimique contenant deux groupes fonctionnels ou plus réactifs vis-à-vis de la cellulose, caractérisé en ce que la fibre soumise au traitement a été préalablement séchée et en ce ce que le réactif chimique réagit avec la cellulose en formant au moins deux groupes éther aliphatiques.
  3. Procédé selon la revendication 1 ou la revendication 2, caractérisé en ce que le réactif chimique contient au moins un groupe acrylamido ou esteracrylique en tant que groupe fonctionnel réactif vis-à-vis de la cellulose.
  4. Procédé selon la revendication 1 ou la revendication 2, caractérisé en ce que le réactif chimique contient au moins un groupe vinylsulfone en tant que groupe fonctionnel réactif vis-à-vis de la cellulose.
  5. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que le réactif chimique contient de deux à six groupes fonctionnels réactifs vis-à-vis de la cellulose.
  6. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que le réactif chimique contient au moins un noyau auquel sont reliés au moins trois groupes fonctionnels réactifs vis-à-vis de la cellulose.
  7. Procédé selon la revendication 6, caractérisé en ce que le réactif chimique est la triacryloylhexahydrotriazine.
  8. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que la fibre est traitée par une solution aqueuse du réactif chimique.
  9. Procédé selon la revendication 8, caractérisé en ce que la solution aqueuse est faiblement alcaline.
  10. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que la fibre est traitée de manière à réagir avec 0,2 à 5 pour cent en poids du réactif chimique, par rapport au poids de fibre.
  11. Procédé selon la revendication 10, caractérisé en ce que la fibre est traitée de manière à réagir avec 0,5 à 3 pour cent en poids du réactif chimique, par rapport au poids de fibre.
  12. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que la fibre soumise au traitement est présente dans une étoffe tissée.
  13. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 11, caractérisé en ce que la fibre soumise au traitement est présente dans un tissu à mailles.
  14. Procédé selon la revendication 13, caractérisé en ce que le tissu à mailles est traité sous forme de cable avec le réactif chimique.
  15. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que la fibre traitée est ensuite teinte.
  16. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que le réactif chimique est essentiellement incolore.
  17. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que la fibre est de couleur essentiellement identique avant et après le traitement par le réactif chimique.
  18. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que la fibre a été préparée par extrusion, dans un bain aqueux, d'une solution de cellulose dans un L-oxyde d'amine tertiaire, suivi d'un lavage et d'un séchage.
EP93923021A 1992-10-21 1993-10-19 Traitement de fibres Expired - Lifetime EP0665904B1 (fr)

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GB9222059 1992-10-21
GB929222059A GB9222059D0 (en) 1992-10-21 1992-10-21 Fibre treatment
PCT/GB1993/002155 WO1994009191A1 (fr) 1992-10-21 1993-10-19 Traitement de fibres

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EP0665904A1 EP0665904A1 (fr) 1995-08-09
EP0665904B1 true EP0665904B1 (fr) 1998-11-18

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GB9407496D0 (en) * 1994-04-15 1994-06-08 Courtaulds Fibres Holdings Ltd Fibre treatment
GB9408742D0 (en) * 1994-05-03 1994-06-22 Courtaulds Fibres Holdings Ltd Fabric treatment
AT401063B (de) * 1994-09-05 1996-06-25 Chemiefaser Lenzing Ag Verfahren zur herstellung von cellulosischen formkörpern
GB9505281D0 (en) * 1995-03-16 1995-05-03 Courtaulds Fibres Holdings Ltd Fibre treatment
AT403296B (de) * 1995-08-11 1997-12-29 Chemiefaser Lenzing Ag Verfahren zur herstellung eines celluloseformkörpers
US6110978A (en) * 1995-09-22 2000-08-29 Acordis Acetate Chemicals Limited Forming solutions
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EP0950750B1 (fr) * 1998-04-14 2003-10-22 Lenzing Aktiengesellschaft Procédé de traitement de fibres de cellulose
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CN101910478B (zh) 2008-01-16 2013-02-20 连津格股份公司 纤维混合物、由其制造的纱和织物
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CN101914856B (zh) * 2010-08-12 2012-10-17 绍兴中纺院江南分院有限公司 Pla纤维的剥色方法
CN103243555B (zh) * 2013-05-16 2015-02-25 东华大学 一种高强力保留纯棉纺织品免烫整理方法
CN103409983B (zh) * 2013-07-11 2015-07-08 东华大学 一种纯棉梭织面料的丝光、免烫一步整理方法
TWI667378B (zh) 2014-01-03 2019-08-01 奧地利商蘭精股份有限公司 纖維素纖維
CN107541875B (zh) * 2017-09-18 2020-05-22 广东溢达纺织有限公司 丝光领袖染色方法及丝光领袖生产方法
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TR28688A (tr) 1997-01-08
BR9307216A (pt) 1999-03-30
HU218349B (hu) 2000-08-28
HU9501129D0 (en) 1995-06-28
ZA937646B (en) 1994-05-04
JP3336012B2 (ja) 2002-10-21
AU670341B2 (en) 1996-07-11
IN187366B (fr) 2002-04-06
CN1048533C (zh) 2000-01-19
FI951888A (fi) 1995-04-20
CZ288615B6 (cs) 2001-08-15
CN1111305A (zh) 1995-11-08
RU2126464C1 (ru) 1999-02-20
CA2147350A1 (fr) 1994-04-28
HUT69599A (en) 1995-09-28
JPH08505441A (ja) 1996-06-11
ATE173515T1 (de) 1998-12-15
GB9222059D0 (en) 1992-12-02
FI951888A0 (fi) 1995-04-20
AU5285193A (en) 1994-05-09
SK50795A3 (en) 1995-08-09
DE69322170D1 (de) 1998-12-24
SK283618B6 (sk) 2003-10-07
PL174026B1 (pl) 1998-06-30
EP0665904A1 (fr) 1995-08-09
ES2125351T3 (es) 1999-03-01
KR100278878B1 (ko) 2001-02-01
MY111192A (en) 1999-09-30
PL308482A1 (en) 1995-08-07
CZ97295A3 (en) 1995-10-18
WO1994009191A1 (fr) 1994-04-28
RU95109843A (ru) 1997-03-10
DE69322170T2 (de) 1999-05-20

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