CN115645334A - Moisturizing and anti-aging cosmetic and preparation method thereof - Google Patents

Moisturizing and anti-aging cosmetic and preparation method thereof Download PDF

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CN115645334A
CN115645334A CN202211430435.0A CN202211430435A CN115645334A CN 115645334 A CN115645334 A CN 115645334A CN 202211430435 A CN202211430435 A CN 202211430435A CN 115645334 A CN115645334 A CN 115645334A
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moisturizing
cosmetic
aging cosmetic
extract
aging
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CN115645334B (en
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张利平
吴金燕
张瑾
朱宁文
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Yingzhong Regenerative Medicine Shandong Co ltd
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Abstract

The invention discloses a moisturizing and anti-aging cosmetic. Belongs to the technical field of cosmetics. The method comprises the following raw materials: 1-3% of cork oak bark extract, 1-7% of butanediol, 2.2-5% of glycerin, 2.5-5% of sodium PCA, 0.3-1% of cellulose, 0.3-1% of xanthan gum, 0.3-1% of sodium hyaluronate, 0.3-1% of caprylic glyceride, 0.05-0.2% of disodium EDTA, citric acid, sodium citrate and deionized water. The cosmetic contains the quercus suber bark extract, can effectively improve the water control and moisture retention capacity and elasticity of the skin, delays skin aging, and provides a new direction for the application of the local quercus suber. The invention also provides a preparation method of the cosmetic, and the method can effectively extract effective components such as phenols, micromolecular sugar, amino acid, protein and the like in Chinese native cork oak bark, and provides technical support for effective extraction of cork bark.

Description

Moisture-preserving anti-aging cosmetic and preparation method thereof
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to a moisturizing and anti-aging cosmetic and a preparation method thereof.
Background
In the modern society, with the improvement of living standard of people, people pay more and more attention to skin maintenance and self image, however, after twenty-four and five years of age, the organism begins to age, fine lines are gradually fully climbed between the canthus and the eyebrow tip, and particularly, the problems of environmental pollution, living pressure, abnormal living work and frequent overlarge working pressure and the like are gradually serious due to rapid development of social economy at present, so that the facial skin becomes dry and rough, and is lack of moisture, further the elasticity is reduced, the skin atrophy and sagging are caused, the mood of people for beauty pursuit is seriously influenced, and therefore, how to realize skin moisturizing becomes a research hotspot in all social circles.
The extract of bark and root of Quercus suberectus can inhibit the secretion of inflammatory cytokine TNF-alpha, has remarkable antiinflammatory and antiallergic effects on skin, and also has effect in promoting collagen synthesis in skin. The prior application patent uses the extract of the bark of cork oak, which is mainly applied to the aspects of anti-inflammation, allergy relief, free radical resistance and the like, for example, the patent application number is 202010167863.3, the hormone face repair essence cream and the preparation method thereof, and the anti-inflammation and allergy relief effects of the extract of the bark of cork oak are mainly utilized to restore the immune barrier of the skin, thereby realizing the repair of the hormone face; for another example, application No. 201811654699.8, "an anti-wrinkle soft foundation composition and a preparation method thereof" mainly utilizes the anti-free radical effect of cork oak bark extract to achieve the anti-wrinkle effect of skin.
However, no research is made on the moisturizing effect of the quercus variabilis bark extract in the prior art, the quercus variabilis bark extract is also rarely applied to moisturizing cosmetics, and the quercus variabilis adopted in the prior art is European quercus variabilis, and no relevant research is found on the native quercus variabilis bark extract in China.
Therefore, the problem to be solved by those skilled in the art is how to provide a moisturizing and anti-aging cosmetic containing an extract of cork oak bark and a preparation method thereof.
Disclosure of Invention
Aiming at the problems, the invention provides a moisturizing and anti-aging cosmetic and a preparation method thereof.
In order to achieve the purpose, the invention adopts the following technical scheme:
a moisturizing and anti-aging cosmetic comprises the following raw materials in percentage by weight: 1-3% of oak bark extract, 1-7% of butanediol, 2.2-5% of glycerin, 2.5-5% of sodium PCA, 0.3-1% of cellulose, 0.3-1% of xanthan gum, 0.3-1% of sodium hyaluronate, 0.3-1% of caprylic glyceride, 0.05-0.2% of disodium EDTA, 0-1% of pH regulator and the balance of water for 100%.
The beneficial effects of the above operation are: the moisturizing and anti-aging cosmetic is rich in the quercus variabilis bark extract, improves the barrier function of the skin, and improves the moisturizing effect of the skin.
Preferably, the pH regulator is citric acid or sodium citrate, and the pH is regulated to 5.5-6.5.
Preferably, the quercus variabilis bark extract is prepared by the following steps: pulverizing cortex cork cambium, weighing 30g of the pulverized material, adding ethanol according to a material-liquid ratio of 1.
The beneficial effects of the above operation are: the extracted substances mainly comprise phenols, micromolecular sugar, amino acid, protein and other substances; the phenolic compounds have free radical scavenging and antioxidant effects; certain amino acids and proteins in the extract can improve the barrier function of stratum corneum, and reduce the amount of water lost through skin to achieve moisturizing effect.
Preferably, the size of the pulverized particles is 40-60 mesh.
Preferably, the cosmetic is a mask.
The invention also aims to provide a preparation method of the moisturizing and anti-aging cosmetic, which comprises the following steps:
(1) Dissolving glyceryl caprylate at 80 deg.C to obtain oil phase;
(2) Taking glycerol, butanediol, sodium PCA, EDTA disodium, cellulose, xanthan gum and sodium hyaluronate according to a certain proportion, adding deionized water, heating to 75-85 ℃, and stirring until the materials are uniformly dissolved to obtain a water phase for later use;
(3) Slowly adding the oil phase in the step (1) into the water phase in the step (2) at a constant speed under the condition of 1000-2000rpm, and then homogenizing and emulsifying to obtain an emulsion;
(4) Cooling the emulsion, adding cortex Querci Acutissimae extract, and adjusting pH;
(5) Stirring, cooling to 35 deg.C, measuring pH, vacuum defoaming, and filtering to obtain cosmetic.
Preferably, the homogenizing and emulsifying speed in step (3) is 4000-6000rpm for 5-10min.
Preferably, the emulsion in step (4) is cooled to 40 ℃.
Preferably, citric acid or sodium citrate is added in step (4) to adjust the pH to 5.5-6.5.
According to the technical scheme, compared with the prior art, the invention has the following beneficial effects:
(1) The cosmetic prepared by the invention contains effective extraction components of phenols, micromolecular sugar, amino acid, protein and the like in Chinese cork oak bark, can realize that after the cosmetic is used for 2 hours, the moisturizing rate is up to more than 80%, and effectively improves the moisturizing effect of skin.
(2) Meanwhile, on the basis of improving the skin moisturizing effect, the elasticity of the skin is further increased, and the effective rate is up to more than 85%.
(3) The invention adopts the Chinese native cork oak bark extract, has wide and easily obtained raw material sources, and provides a new technical direction for the application of native cork oak.
Detailed Description
The technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention are clearly and completely described below, and it is obvious that the described embodiments are only a part of the embodiments of the present invention, and not all embodiments. All other embodiments, which can be obtained by a person skilled in the art without making any creative effort based on the embodiments in the present invention, belong to the protection scope of the present invention.
Example 1
Preparation method of cortex Querci Acutissimae extract
The method comprises the following steps:
removing the outer skin of the dried cork of cork oak, leaving a cork cambium, and crushing into 40-60 meshes; weighing bark crushed material 30.0g, placing into a filter paper cylinder of a Soxhlet extractor, adding 600ml petroleum ether, mounting a round-bottom flask on an electrothermal sleeve, extracting under reflux for 2 times at constant temperature of 40 ℃ for 2h each time, filtering with liquid petroleum ether extract filter paper, and evaporating filtrate under reduced pressure to obtain solid bark petroleum ether extract (extract I) mainly containing lipid substances.
Method 2
Removing the outer skin of the dried cork of cork oak, leaving a cork cambium, and crushing into 40-60 meshes; weighing bark crushed material 30.0g, placing into filter paper cylinder of Soxhlet extractor, adding 600ml ethyl acetate, heating to 110-120 deg.C, reflux extracting for 2 times, each time for 2 hr, filtering with filter paper, evaporating filtrate under reduced pressure to obtain bark ethyl acetate extract (extract II), wherein the ethyl acetate belongs to medium polar solvent, and is mainly extracted from flavone, alkaloid, etc.
Method 3
Removing the outer skin of the dried cork of cork oak, leaving a cork cambium, and crushing into 40-60 meshes; weighing bark powder 30.0g, placing into filter paper cylinder of Soxhlet extractor, adding 600ml ethanol, heating to 70 deg.C, reflux extracting for 2 times (each for 2 hr), filtering with filter paper, and evaporating the filtrate under reduced pressure to obtain bark ethanol extract (extract III).
Method 4
Removing the outer skin of the dried cork of cork oak, leaving a cork cambium, and crushing into 40-60 meshes; weighing bark powder 30.0g, placing into filter paper cylinder of Soxhlet extractor, adding 600ml water, heating to 60 deg.C, reflux extracting for 2 times (2 hr each time), filtering, concentrating the filtrate, and freeze drying to obtain bark water extract (extract IV), wherein the ethanol and water extract mainly comprises phenols, micromolecular sugar and protein etc. polar substances.
Example 2
In vitro evaluation of anti-aging function of different extracts
1. Preparation of the test specimens
The 4 different extracts prepared in example 1 were formulated into sample solutions and subjected to in vitro evaluation experiments.
2. Determination of superoxide anion radical scavenging action
4.5mL of 0.05mol/L Tris-HCl buffer with pH =8.2 was preheated in a 25 ℃ water bath for 20min. 1mL of the sample and 0.4mL of 25mmol/L pyrogallol solution were added, mixed, reacted in a water bath at 25 ℃ for 5min, and 1.0mL of 8mol/L HCl was added to terminate the reaction. Absorbance values were measured at 299nm with Tris-HCl buffer as a reference. 1mLddH for blank control 2 O instead of the sample. The clearance was calculated according to equation (1).
O2 clearance (%) = [1- (A1/A2) ] × 100% (1)
Wherein A1 is the absorbance value of a blank control; a2 is the absorbance value of the drug.
3. Measurement of hydroxyl radical scavenging ability
2mmol/LFeSO are added into a 25mL colorimetric tube in turn 4 3mL,1mmol/LH 2 O 2 3mL, shaking up, then adding 3mL of salicylic acid with the concentration of 6mmol/L, shaking up, heating in a water bath at 37 ℃ for 15min, taking out, and measuring the absorbance; adding the solutions to be tested with certain concentrations, shaking, heating in water bath for 15min, and taking out to test their absorbance. The clearance of the carboxyl radical (. OH) was calculated according to formula (2):
OH clearance (%) = [ A3-A4- (A3-A5) ]/A3X 100% (2)
In the formula, A3 is the absorbance value of a reaction system before adding a medicament; a4 is the absorbance value of the system after the OH is removed by the medicine; a5 is the absorbance value of the system after blank control removal of. OH.
4. Results of the experiment
The anti-aging function evaluation test is shown in table 1.
Table 1: scavenging rate of superoxide anion and hydroxyl radical by different extracts
Figure BDA0003944751840000051
Figure BDA0003944751840000061
Experiments show that the extract can effectively eliminate the effect of free radicals, and particularly the elimination rate of the extract III on the free radicals is strongest and is up to more than 90 percent.
Example 3
The formula of the moisturizing and anti-aging sleep cosmetic is shown in table 2:
table 2: raw material formula table
Figure BDA0003944751840000062
(1) Solid glyceryl caprylate was weighed according to Table 2 and dissolved at 80 ℃ to obtain an oil phase for use.
(2) According to the table 2, glycerin, butanediol, sodium PCA, EDTA disodium, cellulose, xanthan gum and sodium hyaluronate are added into deionized water, heated to 85 ℃, and stirred until the components are dissolved uniformly to obtain a water phase for later use.
(3) Slowly adding the oil phase into the water phase at a constant speed under 2000rpm, and after the addition is finished, homogenizing and emulsifying for 10 minutes under 6000 rpm.
(4) Cooling to 40 deg.C, adding 3% Quercus variabilis bark extract III, and adjusting pH to 6.5 with citric acid or sodium citrate.
(5) Stirring, cooling to 35 deg.C, measuring pH again, vacuum defoaming, filtering, and discharging.
Example 4
The formula of the moisturizing and anti-aging sleep cosmetic is shown in table 2:
table 3: raw material formula table
Figure BDA0003944751840000071
(1) Solid glyceryl caprylate was weighed according to Table 3 and dissolved at 80 ℃ to obtain an oil phase for use.
(2) According to the table 3, glycerin, butanediol, sodium PCA, EDTA disodium, cellulose, xanthan gum and sodium hyaluronate are added into deionized water, heated to 75 ℃, and stirred until the materials are uniformly dissolved to obtain a water phase for later use.
(3) Slowly adding the oil phase into the water phase at a constant speed under the condition of 1000rpm, and after the addition is finished, homogenizing and emulsifying for 10 minutes under the condition of 4000 rpm.
(4) Cooling to 40 deg.C, adding 1% Quercus variabilis bark extract II, and adjusting pH to 5.5 with citric acid or sodium citrate.
(5) Stirring, cooling to 35 deg.C, measuring pH again, vacuum defoaming, filtering, and discharging.
Example 5
Human body evaluation test for efficacy of anti-aging sleep cosmetics
1) Study of elastic Properties
The sleep cosmetics of example 3 were used for trial evaluation of human bodies, and the test was carried out according to technical standards for cosmetic safety (2015 edition). 40 healthy volunteers (20 men and 20 women) aged 30-50 years without cosmetic allergy history were selected.
The using method comprises the following steps: after cleansing the face daily, once a day (before sleeping at night), the anti-aging sleep cosmetic prepared in example 3 (in the case of extract III) was applied to the left face, and not applied to the right face.
The experimental period is one month, and the skin elasticity of the face of the volunteer is measured by adopting a German CK skin elasticity tester MPA580 at 0, 15 and 30 days;
the formula for calculating the skin elasticity characteristic value R = Ua/Uf, wherein: ua eliminates the rebound displacement of the skin after negative pressure in millimeters (mm), and Uf, the maximum tensile displacement of the skin when negative pressure is applied in millimeters (mm). The larger the skin elasticity characterizing value R, the higher the skin elasticity.
Δ R = R (n days) -R (0 days), the larger the Δ R value, the larger the increase in skin elasticity is indicated.
And (3) analyzing an experimental result: skin elasticity of volunteers after one month of use was analyzed, and the results are analyzed in table 4, and the user used the moisturizing anti-aging cosmetic prepared according to example 3 with the R average value of the left face being greater than the R average value of the right face and the Δ R of the left face being greater than the Δ R of the right face, indicating that the moisturizing anti-aging cosmetic prepared according to example 3 improves skin elasticity of volunteers.
Table 4: characteristic value of skin elasticity R
Figure BDA0003944751840000081
2) Testing of moisturizing performance
The test was conducted by using the cosmetic of example 3, and 10 volunteers (5 men and 5 women) aged 30 to 50 were selected, and in an indoor environment of 20 ℃ and 50% relative humidity, 2 areas were divided on the forehead, one cosmetic was applied, one was washed after 20min, and skin moisture change data was obtained by a Corneometer CM285 skin moisture detector test, and the test results are shown in table 5, wherein a humidity value a is a test value before use, a humidity value B is a test average value after use, a humidity value C is a test average value after 2 hours of use, a water replenishment rate (%) = B/a × 100%, and a moisture retention rate (%) = C/B × 100%.
And (3) analyzing an experimental result: moisturizing and moisturizing performance test data of the cosmetics are shown in table 5, and the moisturizing value and the moisturizing rate of the applied cosmetic group are significantly higher than those of the applied cosmetic group after the cosmetics are applied for 2 hours, which shows that the moisturizing and anti-aging cosmetic prepared according to example 3 has a moisturizing effect.
TABLE 5 moisturizing Performance
Figure BDA0003944751840000082
In the present specification, the embodiments are described in a progressive manner, each embodiment focuses on differences from other embodiments, and the same and similar parts among the embodiments are referred to each other.
The previous description of the disclosed embodiments is provided to enable any person skilled in the art to make or use the present invention. Various modifications to these embodiments will be readily apparent to those skilled in the art, and the generic principles defined herein may be applied to other embodiments without departing from the spirit or scope of the invention. Thus, the present invention is not intended to be limited to the embodiments shown herein but is to be accorded the widest scope consistent with the principles and novel features disclosed herein.

Claims (9)

1. The moisturizing and anti-aging cosmetic is characterized by comprising the following raw materials in percentage by weight: 1-3% of cork oak bark extract, 1-7% of butanediol, 2.2-5% of glycerol, 2.5-5% of sodium PCA, 0.3-1% of cellulose, 0.3-1% of xanthan gum, 0.3-1% of sodium hyaluronate, 0.3-1% of caprylic glyceride, 0.05-0.2% of disodium EDTA, 0-1% of pH regulator and the balance of water for 100%.
2. The moisturizing and anti-aging cosmetic as claimed in claim 1, wherein the pH regulator is citric acid or sodium citrate, and the pH is adjusted to 5.5-6.5.
3. The moisturizing and anti-aging cosmetic as claimed in claim 1, wherein the quercus variabilis bark extract is prepared by the following steps: pulverizing the bark cork cambium, weighing 30g of the pulverized material, adding ethanol according to a material-liquid ratio of 1.
4. The moisturizing and anti-aging cosmetic as claimed in claim 3, wherein the pulverized size is 40-60 mesh.
5. The moisturizing and anti-aging cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the cosmetic composition is a mask.
6. A method for preparing the moisturizing and anti-aging cosmetic as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 5, comprising the steps of:
(1) Dissolving glyceryl caprylate at 80 deg.C to obtain oil phase;
(2) Taking glycerol, butanediol, sodium PCA, EDTA disodium, cellulose, xanthan gum and sodium hyaluronate according to a certain proportion, adding deionized water, heating to 75-85 ℃, and stirring until the components are uniformly dissolved to obtain a water phase for later use;
(3) Slowly adding the oil phase in the step (1) into the water phase in the step (2) at a constant speed under the condition of 1000-2000rpm, and homogenizing and emulsifying to obtain an emulsion;
(4) Cooling the emulsion, adding cortex Querci Acutissimae extract, and adjusting pH;
(5) Stirring, cooling to 35 deg.C, measuring pH, vacuum defoaming, and filtering to obtain cosmetic.
7. The method for preparing a moisturizing and anti-aging cosmetic as claimed in claim 6, wherein the homogenizing and emulsifying speed in step (3) is 4000-6000rpm for 5-10min.
8. The method for preparing a moisturizing and anti-aging cosmetic according to claim 6, wherein the emulsion is cooled to 40 ℃ in the step (4).
9. The method for preparing a moisturizing and anti-aging cosmetic as claimed in claim 6, wherein citric acid or sodium citrate is added in the step (4) to adjust the pH to 5.5 to 6.5.
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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPH11193243A (en) * 1997-12-26 1999-07-21 Noevir Co Ltd Skin preparation for external use
FR2841133A1 (en) * 2002-06-25 2003-12-26 Vincience Cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition useful for treating or preventing symptoms of skin aging and improving the appearance of the skin comprises a cork extract
WO2006079109A2 (en) * 2005-01-21 2006-07-27 Rdx Technologies, Inc. Non-toxic antimicrobial compositions and methods using pro-oxidative polyphenols and antioxidants
CN101328201A (en) * 2008-07-29 2008-12-24 浙江大学 Method for extracting betulin from birch bark
KR20120044396A (en) * 2010-09-29 2012-05-08 경상대학교산학협력단 Composition for improving atopic dermatitis comprising extract of quercus variabilis which is extracted from wood chip of quercus variabilis obtained by steam explosion treatment
CN109157453A (en) * 2018-10-22 2019-01-08 广州智尚生物科技有限公司 A kind of pro-skin slow releasing composition and its cosmetics
CN109394590A (en) * 2018-12-29 2019-03-01 广州艾蓓生物科技有限公司 A kind of soft foundation compositions of crease-resistant silk and preparation method thereof
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JPH11193243A (en) * 1997-12-26 1999-07-21 Noevir Co Ltd Skin preparation for external use
FR2841133A1 (en) * 2002-06-25 2003-12-26 Vincience Cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition useful for treating or preventing symptoms of skin aging and improving the appearance of the skin comprises a cork extract
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CN109157453A (en) * 2018-10-22 2019-01-08 广州智尚生物科技有限公司 A kind of pro-skin slow releasing composition and its cosmetics
CN109394590A (en) * 2018-12-29 2019-03-01 广州艾蓓生物科技有限公司 A kind of soft foundation compositions of crease-resistant silk and preparation method thereof
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