CN114411305A - 灯芯绒质感与仿压花效应兼备的提花织物生产工艺 - Google Patents

灯芯绒质感与仿压花效应兼备的提花织物生产工艺 Download PDF

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CN114411305A
CN114411305A CN202210063257.6A CN202210063257A CN114411305A CN 114411305 A CN114411305 A CN 114411305A CN 202210063257 A CN202210063257 A CN 202210063257A CN 114411305 A CN114411305 A CN 114411305A
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丁圆圆
王见乐
张金珍
雷斌
楼燕娟
杜叶丹
张小芳
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High Fashion Silk Zhejiang Co ltd
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Abstract

本发明公开了一种灯芯绒质感与仿压花效应兼备的提花织物生产工艺，包括经纬组合设计、投纬设计、组织设计、提花织造和后整理，经线为蚕丝生丝单丝，甲纬为绢丝，乙纬用蚕丝生丝缠绕氨纶形成的包覆丝，丙纬与乙纬材料相同但捻向相反；甲、乙、丙纬的投纬比例2∶1∶1；组织采用纬二重双层组织，地部为纬向加强组织，由底层纬线与经线交织，乙纬、丙纬交替作为底层纬线、起花纬线，花纹图案由提花部和绒地花纹部组成，提花部表层组织采用经向加强组织；绒地花纹部由甲纬浮长于地部正面；投纬循环：1甲纬1乙纬1甲纬1丙纬；后整理由练白和拉幅定型组成，练白包括初练、常温精练和氧漂。按本工艺生产的织物其绒条不倒毛不起皱，花纹持久立体。

Description

灯芯绒质感与仿压花效应兼备的提花织物生产工艺
【技术领域】
本发明涉及一种灯芯绒质感与仿压花效应兼备的提花织物生产工艺，属真丝提花生产技术领域。
【背景技术】
随着人们对于衣着品质与格调的不断提升，现代时尚文化充斥着日常生活的同时却不可避免地产生审美疲劳，比如服用机织面料就不再受限于二维平面感状态的呈现。
传统灯芯绒的绒条采用割绒、吸绒、刷绒等技术手段加工，不但加工工序多、高能耗，绒条欠耐磨、易脱落，且在穿着使用过程中易因受压而形成倒毛、起皱及折痕，存在服用性较差的不足。
【发明内容】
本发明的目的是提供一种灯芯绒质感与仿压花效应兼备的提花织物生产工艺，通过该工艺生产的织物服用性佳，绒条厚实耐磨不易脱落，不会倒毛，不易产生折痕与起皱，以及花纹浮雕立体感强劲且持久。
为此，本发明采用如下技术方案：
灯芯绒质感与仿压花效应兼备的提花织物生产工艺，包括如下步骤：成品规格设计、经纬组合设计、投纬设计、组织设计、提花织造和后整理，经纬组合设计中，采用一组经线为46.66dtex f1蚕丝生丝，三组纬线分别为：甲纬采用120N/2绢丝、乙纬采用23dtex f2蚕丝生丝缠绕30D氨纶形成的S 1750T/m的包覆丝和丙纬采用23dtex f2蚕丝生丝缠绕30D氨纶形成的Z 1750T/m的包覆丝；在投纬设计中，甲纬、乙纬和丙纬的投纬比例为2∶1∶1；在组织设计中，采用纬二重双层组织，其中，地部采用纬向加强组织，由底层纬线与经线交织形成，乙纬、丙纬分别与经线交织过程中交替作为底层纬线、起花纬线，花纹图案由提花部和绒地花纹部组成，提花部的表层组织采用经向加强组织并由经线与起花纬线交织；绒地花纹部是由甲纬以浮长形式位于地部正面；提花织造，经线、纬线上机准备，确定织造工艺参数，包括实用纹针数、纬线织造张力的确定，投纬循环排列为：1甲纬、1乙纬、1甲纬、1丙纬；后整理由练白和拉幅定型组成，练白工序包括高温初练、常温精练和氧漂，高温初练的工艺条件：浴比为1∶40～50，温度为120～125℃，保温时间为30～60min，升温速度为0.5～1.5℃/min，常温精练的工艺条件：浴比为1∶40～50，温度为90～98℃，保温时间为60～90min，氧漂时采用质量浓度为4～8g/l的双氧水，氧漂的工艺条件：浴比为1∶40～50，温度为70～90℃，时间为30～60min，拉幅定型的温度为190～210℃。
上述提花织造是在提花织机上进行的，上机经密：112.8根/厘米，实用纹针数为2400针，上机有效门幅为177.18厘米，上机纬密：53.5根/厘米，甲纬、乙纬、丙纬的织造张力分别达5CN、3CN、3CN，经线上机张力为23～27CN。
上述提花织造后的下机门幅为175厘米，练白后的坯布门幅为78～80厘米，拉幅定型后的成品门幅控制在107～110厘米。
与现有技术相比，本发明的优点和积极效果如下：
表达绒地花纹部的甲纬材料选择合理是采用短纤的绢丝，且绢丝的纤度也选择合理，故纵向呈间隔式的绒条粗旷且有绒感，配合经线选用单丝纤维，以及地部采用五枚加强组织，确保了含有单纤的地部具备较好的回缩性能，使得位于相邻纵向绒条的地部自然凹陷，则更加凸现纵向、间隔式绒条的隆起效果；摒弃传统灯芯绒的绒条采用割绒、吸绒、刷绒等技术手段加工，改而通过提花、练整直接形成绒地花纹部，不但减少加工工序、降低能源消耗，而且绒条触感弹滑、厚实耐磨及不易脱落，有效避免在穿用过程因受压而形成的倒毛及不易产生折痕与起皱，因而服用性佳。
提花部的表层组织经优化设计，配合交替交织的起花纬线选用强捻且捻向相反的蚕丝包覆氨纶丝，以及地部配合采用合理的组织，使下机坯布经后整理后坯布中的起花纬线在收缩作用下，确保提花部形成浮雕立体感强劲且持久的仿压花效应。
高温初练工艺设置合理，初练后坯布收缩均匀、脱胶均匀，再经后续常温精练以完全消除坯布的残余丝胶，最大限度地提升面料的收缩空间。
综上，按本生产工艺加工的成品，灯芯绒质感与仿压花效应兼备。
由于尽可能提高了甲纬、乙纬、丙纬的织造张力，后整理后的成品其回弹性能相应得到提升。
【具体实施方式】
灯芯绒质感与仿压花效应兼备的提花织物生产工艺，包括如下步骤：成品规格设计、经纬组合设计、投纬设计、组织设计、提花织造和后整理，经纬组合设计中，经线采用一组，具体为46.66dtex f1蚕丝生丝，纬线采用三组，甲纬为120N/2绢丝(即谓公支)，乙纬采用包覆丝，通过包覆加捻将23dtex f2蚕丝生丝缠绕到30D氨纶表面，乙纬的捻向为S，捻度为1750T/m，丙纬采用包覆丝，通过包覆加捻将23dtex f2蚕丝生丝缠绕到30D氨纶表面，丙纬的捻向为Z，捻度为1750T/m；在投纬设计中，甲纬、乙纬和丙纬的投纬比例为2∶1∶1；在组织设计中，采用纬二重双层组织，其中，地部采用纬向加强组织，由底层纬线与经线交织形成，乙纬、丙纬分别与经线交织过程中交替作为底层纬线、起花纬线，花纹图案由提花部和绒地花纹部组成，提花部的表层组织采用经向加强组织并由经线与起花纬线交织；绒地花纹部是由甲纬以浮长的形式位于地部正面；提花织造，准备经、纬线上机，确定织造工艺参数，包括实用纹针数、纬线织造张力的确定，投纬循环排列为：1甲纬、1乙纬、1甲纬、1丙纬；后整理由练白和拉幅定型组成，练白工序由预浸、高温初练、常温精练和氧漂组成，高温初练的工艺条件：浴比为1∶40～50，温度为120～125℃，保温时间为30～60分钟，升温速度为0.5～1.5℃/分钟，初练完毕后降温至85～95℃，降温速度为2～4℃/min，等候常温精练，常温精练的工艺条件：浴比为1∶40～50，温度为90～98℃，保温时间为60～90分钟，氧漂时采用质量浓度为4～8克/升的双氧水，氧漂的工艺条件：浴比为1∶40～50，温度为70～90℃，时间为30～60分钟，拉幅定型的温度为190～210℃。
在成品规格设计中，成品内幅106cm，成品经密188.54根/cm，成品纬密56.5根/cm，成品重量41m/m(姆米)。
预浸是在练桶内进行的，预浸温度、时间分别为60℃、60分钟；初练是在高温染色机上进行的；常温精练、氧漂均分别在练桶内进行的；拉幅定型是在拉幅定型机上进行的，车速控制在40～50米/分钟。
提花织造是在提花织机上进行的，上机经密：112.8根/厘米，实用纹针数为2400针，上机有效门幅为177.18厘米，上机纬密：53.5根/厘米，甲纬、乙纬、丙纬的织造张力分别达5CN、3CN、3CN，经线上机张力为23～27CN。
织轴数量：1只，有效经线数19986根，花数为9花，花幅宽度为12厘米。
上机经密采用高经密后，确保下机坯布的花提部精致、细腻。
提花织造后的下机门幅为175厘米，练白后的坯布门幅为78～80厘米，拉幅定型后的成品门幅控制在107～110厘米。
生产得到的成品可供服用面料、装饰面料使用。

Claims (3)

1.一种灯芯绒质感与仿压花效应兼备的提花织物生产工艺，其特征在于包括如下步骤：成品规格设计、经纬组合设计、投纬设计、组织设计、提花织造和后整理，
经纬组合设计中，采用一组经线为46.66dtex f1蚕丝生丝，三组纬线分别为：甲纬采用120N/2绢丝、乙纬采用23dtex f2蚕丝生丝缠绕30D氨纶形成的S 1750T/m的包覆丝和丙纬采用23dtex f2蚕丝生丝缠绕30D氨纶形成的Z 1750T/m的包覆丝；
在投纬设计中，甲纬、乙纬和丙纬的投纬比例为2∶1∶1；
在组织设计中，采用纬二重双层组织，其中，
地部采用纬向加强组织，由底层纬线与经线交织形成，乙纬、丙纬分别与经线交织过程中交替作为底层纬线、起花纬线，花纹图案由提花部和绒地花纹部组成，提花部的表层组织采用经向加强组织并由经线与起花纬线交织；绒地花纹部是由甲纬以浮长形式位于地部正面；
提花织造，经线、纬线上机准备，确定织造工艺参数，包括实用纹针数、纬线织造张力的确定，投纬循环排列为：1甲纬、1乙纬、1乙纬、1丙纬；
后整理由练白和拉幅定型组成，练白工序包括高温初练、常温精练和氧漂，高温初练的工艺条件：浴比为1∶40～50，温度为120～125℃，保温时间为30～60min，升温速度为0.5～1.5℃/min，常温精练的工艺条件：浴比为1∶40～50，温度为90～98℃，保温时间为60～90min，氧漂时采用质量浓度为4～8g/1的双氧水，氧漂的工艺条件：浴比为1∶40～50，温度为70～90℃，时间为30～60min，拉幅定型的温度为190～210℃。
2.根据权利要求1所述的灯芯绒质感与仿压花效应兼备的提花织物生产工艺，其特征是提花织造是在提花织机上进行的，上机经密：112.8根/厘米，实用纹针数为2400针，上机有效门幅为177.18厘米，上机纬密：53.5根/厘米，甲纬、乙纬、丙纬的织造张力分别达5CN、3CN、3CN，经线上机张力为23～27CN。
3.根据权利要求1或2所述的灯芯绒质感与仿压花效应兼备的提花织物生产工艺，其特征是提花织造后的下机门幅为175厘米，练白后的坯布门幅为78～80厘米，拉幅定型后的成品门幅控制在107～110厘米。
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