CN114277579A - 耐晒全涤仿棉面料的加工方法 - Google Patents

耐晒全涤仿棉面料的加工方法 Download PDF

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CN114277579A
CN114277579A CN202111625461.4A CN202111625461A CN114277579A CN 114277579 A CN114277579 A CN 114277579A CN 202111625461 A CN202111625461 A CN 202111625461A CN 114277579 A CN114277579 A CN 114277579A
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benzophenone
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CN114277579B (zh
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陈明贤
孙立新
曹竹青
谢萍萍
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Zhejiang Dongjin New Material Co ltd
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Abstract

本发明公开了一种耐晒全涤仿棉面料的加工方法,属纺织面料领域。加工步骤为:(1)PTT/PET双组份复合弹力丝织造成面料;(2)面料进行染色加工;(3)定型整理;定型整理具体流程为:a、配置整理液;整理液由交联剂与含二苯甲酮聚有机硅氧烷乳液混合而成;b、浸轧面料;c、高温定型烘干。本发明耐晒全涤仿棉面料的加工方法,将PTT/PET双组份复合弹力丝织造为全涤弹力面料,面料手感仿棉,弹力较好,性能优于传统的涤氨面料。同时,面料不含氨纶,因此不存在不耐酸碱,不耐氯,日晒易脆化的问题。

Description

耐晒全涤仿棉面料的加工方法
技术领域
本发明属于纺织面料领域,具体涉及一种耐晒全涤仿棉面料的加工方法。
背景技术
棉织物具有优良的吸湿性、柔软性、保暖性和舒适性,一直深受人们喜爱,但纯棉织物的抗皱、防污和防霉等方面存在不足,当棉纤维饱和吸收人体汗液后造成湿冷不适感觉时,其导湿性、吸湿快干性差的缺点显现。保形性和悬垂性良好的涤纶,被广泛用于仿棉面料的制作。现有的仿棉面料多为涤纶、氨纶制成,因含氨纶而存在不耐酸碱,不耐氯,不耐日晒的问题。
发明内容
本发明目的是提供一种耐晒全涤仿棉面料的加工方法。
为实现上述目的,本发明采用了以下技术方案。
一种耐晒全涤仿棉面料的加工方法,包括以下步骤:
(1)PTT/PET双组份复合弹力丝织造成面料;
(2)面料进行染色加工;
(3)定型整理;
所述的定型整理,具体流程为:
a、配置整理液;由交联剂与含二苯甲酮聚有机硅氧烷乳液混合成整理液;
b、浸轧面料;
c、高温烘干定型。
所述的含二苯甲酮聚有机硅氧烷乳液,制备方法为:
在装有电动搅拌器、温度计、回流冷凝管的三口烧瓶中加入D4 90g、含二苯甲酮硅氧烷5g和KH602 2g,搅拌混合均匀,升温至90℃以上;再加入0.2g四甲基氢氧化铵,保持温度在120℃反应6小时,在表压为0.8MPa的压力下减压蒸馏脱除低沸物,然后升温至140℃分解催化剂四甲基氢氧化铵,并再次在0.8MPa的表压下减压蒸馏脱除低沸物,获得无色透明粘稠液体,即含二苯甲酮聚有机硅氧烷;含二苯甲酮聚有机硅氧烷与乳化剂按质量比10:1混合,搅拌过程中添加水和乙酸的混合物,搅拌至溶液呈透明状,得含二苯甲酮聚有机硅氧烷乳液。乳化剂由异构十三醇聚氧乙烯醚1307、异构十三醇聚氧乙烯醚1309、AEO-9按质量比2:2:1组成。
交联剂为水性封端型聚氨酯。
步骤(1)所述的PTT/PET双组份复合弹力丝,为消光100D/108FPET/PTT复合丝,PET、PTT质量比1:1。
所述的染色加工,包括面料的精练、预定型、碱减量、染色工序。
精练:精练剂2g/L、纯碱浓度10g/L、浴比1:10,面料在100℃条件下处理30min。
预定型:温度190~195℃、时间30~4Os。
碱减量:NaOH质量浓度20g/L,浴比1:10,处理时间40min,处理温度110℃。
染色:常温下染浴中加入高温匀染剂和抗皱柔软剂→面料在染色机中处理10min→加入分散染料染,染液循环10min→升温至75℃→保温10min→升温至90℃→保温15min→升温至130℃→保温45min→降温至50℃→排液→水洗→还原清洗→水洗→出缸。
本发明耐晒全涤仿棉面料的加工方法,将PTT/PET双组份复合弹力丝织造为全涤弹力面料,面料手感仿棉,弹力较好,性能优于传统的涤氨面料。同时,面料不含氨纶,因此不存在不耐酸碱,不耐氯,日晒易脆化的问题。涤纶面料的耐晒牢度稍差,在面料的服用期间会发生褪色等不良现象,本发明在面料后整理时采用含二苯甲酮聚有机硅氧烷乳液,增强了面料的耐光牢度,也避免了常规有机防紫外线剂的迁移及有机氟的环保问题;交联剂可与涤纶纤维碱减量后产生的羟基及聚有机硅氧烷中的氨基反应,形成交联,提高面料定型整理的耐久性。
具体实施方式
一种耐晒全涤仿棉面料的加工方法,包括以下步骤:
(1)PTT/PET双组份复合弹力丝织造成面料;
(2)面料进行染色加工;
(3)定型整理。
步骤(1)中所述的PTT/PET双组份复合弹力丝为消光100D/108FPET/PTT复合丝,PET、PTT质量比1:1。织造工艺流程包括,经纱:原料-分条整经-分绞-穿综、穿筘-织造;纬纱:原料-织造。
步骤(2)中所述的面料染色加工,包括面料的精练、预定型、碱减量、染色工序。
精练:精练剂2g/L、纯碱浓度10g/L、浴比1:10,面料在100℃条件下处理30min;
预定型:温度190~195℃、时间30~4Os;
碱减量:NaOH质量浓度20g/L,浴比1:10,处理时间40min,处理温度110℃;
染色:常温下加入高温匀染剂和抗皱柔软剂→面料在染色机中处理10min→加入分散染料染,染液循环10min→升温至75℃(1.5℃/min)→保温10min→升温至90℃(0.5℃/min)→保温15min→升温至130℃(1℃/min)→保温45min→降温至50℃(1℃/min)→排液→水洗→还原清洗→水洗→出缸。
所述的定型整理,具体工艺流程为:
a、配置整理液;交联剂与含二苯甲酮聚有机硅氧烷乳液按质量比1:18-20混合成整理液;
b、浸轧面料,二浸二轧,轧液率80-90%;
c、高温定型烘干,120℃、40-60s烘干,180-190℃、30-40s焙烘。
所述的含二苯甲酮聚有机硅氧烷乳液,制备方法为:
在装有电动搅拌器、温度计、回流冷凝管的三口烧瓶中加入D4 90g、含二苯甲酮硅氧烷5g和KH602 2g,搅拌混合均匀,升温至90℃以上;再加入0.2g四甲基氢氧化铵,然后保持温度在120℃反应6小时,在表压为0.8MPa的压力下减压蒸馏脱除低沸物,然后升温至140℃分解催化剂四甲基氢氧化铵,并再次在0.8MPa的表压下减压蒸馏脱除低沸物,获得无色透明粘稠液体,即含二苯甲酮聚有机硅氧烷;含二苯甲酮聚有机硅氧烷与乳化剂按质量比10:1混合,搅拌过程中添加水和乙酸的混合物,搅拌至溶液呈透明状,得含二苯甲酮聚有机硅氧烷乳液。乳化剂由异构十三醇聚氧乙烯醚1307、异构十三醇聚氧乙烯醚1309、AEO-9按质量比2:2:1组成。乙酸调节乳液的pH值呈酸性、乳液的质量百分浓度约10%。KH602,N-(β-氨乙基)-γ-氨丙基甲基二甲氧基硅烷。
含二苯甲酮硅氧烷由三甲氧基氢硅烷与2-羟基-4-丙烯氧基二苯甲酮经加成反应制成;具体步骤为:将28.2g(0.1mol)2-羟基-4-丙烯氧基二苯甲酮(CAS号:2549-87-3)、80g甲苯和0.12g铂催化剂加入到装有机械搅拌器、回流冷凝管、恒压滴液漏斗和氮气导气管的四口圆底烧瓶中,在氮气氛围下升温至85℃并回流30min;称量14.7g(0.12mol)三甲氧基氢硅烷(CAS号:2487-90-3)和10g甲苯,充分混合后利用恒压滴液漏斗在2h内加入到四口烧瓶中,然后升温至100℃并保温6h,降温,0.01MPa减压蒸馏未反应单体,出料,即为含二苯甲酮硅氧烷。
交联剂为水性封端型聚氨酯,市售产品,如德国科思创的水性封闭型异氰酸酯固化剂BL5335。
实施例1:
一种全涤仿棉面料,包括经纱、纬纱,经纱和纬纱均为消光100D/108FPET/PTT复合丝,PET、PTT质量比1:1;织造工艺流程包括,经纱:原料-分条整经-分绞-穿综、穿筘-织造;纬纱:原料-织造。
整经工序的参数为:经丝规格100D/108F复合丝、150T/m.Z;总经丝数7416根;门幅206㎝;上排数618颗;条数12条;定幅条宽17㎝;18羽筘穿入2根;角度90°;络轴张力2kg。
织造工序的参数为:织机车速800r/min;停经架深度5;内经综平时间340°;开口动程24°;上机张力100KN;选纬1甲;上机纬密27根/cm。
全涤仿棉面料规格如下:
门幅:206cm
经纬密:36/27根/cm
筘号:18#
筘穿入:2
总经线数:7416根
边经数:60*2=120根
经线:消光100D/108F PET/PTT复合丝,PET、PTT质量比1:1
纬线:消光100D/108F PET/PTT复合丝,PET、PTT质量比1:1
穿综:1-4顺穿
纹板:平纹
每米克重:154g/米
实施例2:
实施例1的全涤仿棉面料染色加工工艺,包括面料的精练、预定型、碱减量、染色工序:
1)精练
精练加工处方及工艺条件
精练剂2g/L
纯碱浓度10g/L
浴比1:10
面料室温浸入精练处理液中,1.5℃/min的速率升温至100℃,保温处理30min后,以2℃/min的速率降温至50℃以下,酸中和,再经两道水洗至布面呈中性;
2)预定形
预定形工艺条件
温度/℃190~195
时间/s 30~4O
车速/(m/min)30
3)碱减量
碱减量处方及工艺条件:
NaOH质量浓度20g/L,
浴比1:10,
处理时间40min,
处理温度110℃;
面料室温浸入碱液中,1℃/min的速率升温至110℃,保温处理40min后,以2℃/min的速率降温至50℃以下,酸中和,再以清水水洗至布面呈中性;
4)染色
染色处方
Figure BDA0003438635690000071
染色工艺条件及流程
常温下加入高温匀染剂和抗皱柔软剂→面料在染色机中处理10min→加入分散染料,染液循环10min→升温至75℃(1.5℃/min)→保温10min→升温至90℃(0.5℃/min)→保温15min→升温至130℃(1℃/min)→保温45min→降温至50℃(1℃/min)→排液→水洗→还原清洗→水洗→出缸;
染色完毕后进行还原清洗,可去除纤维表面的浮色,提高各项色牢度指标;
还原清洗处方及工艺条件
Figure BDA0003438635690000081
还原清洗后用醋酸中和,再分别以温热水和冷水清洗。
实施例3:
一种耐晒全涤仿棉面料的加工方法,包括以下步骤:
(1)PTT/PET双组份复合弹力丝织造成面料,具体见实施例1;
(2)面料进行染色加工,具体步骤见实施例2;
(3)定型整理
a、配置整理液;整理液为含二苯甲酮聚有机硅氧烷乳液;
b、浸轧面料,二浸二轧,轧液率80-90%;
c、高温烘干定型,120℃、40-60s烘干,180-190℃、30-40s焙烘。
防泼水洗前5级,5次洗后3级;弹性伸长率≥20%,弹性回复率≥85%;耐光色牢度等级4-5级。
实施例4:
一种耐晒全涤仿棉面料的加工方法,包括以下步骤:
(1)PTT/PET双组份复合弹力丝织造成面料,具体见实施例1;
(2)面料进行染色加工,具体步骤见实施例2;
(3)定型整理
a、配置整理液;整理液由质量比1:20的水性封闭型异氰酸酯固化剂BL5335与含二苯甲酮聚有机硅氧烷乳液混合而成;
b、浸轧面料,二浸二轧,轧液率80-90%;
c、高温烘干定型,120℃、40-60s烘干,180-190℃、30-40s焙烘。
防泼水洗前5级,5次洗后4级;弹性伸长率≥16%,弹性回复率≥83%;耐光色牢度等级4-5级。
实施例5:
一种耐晒全涤仿棉面料的加工方法,包括以下步骤:
(1)PTT/PET双组份复合弹力丝织造成面料,具体见实施例1;
(2)面料进行染色加工,具体步骤见实施例2;
(3)定型整理
a、配置整理液;整理液由质量比1:18的水性封闭型异氰酸酯固化剂BL5335与含二苯甲酮聚有机硅氧烷乳液混合而成;
b、浸轧面料,二浸二轧,轧液率80-90%;
c、高温烘干定型,120℃、40-60s烘干,180-190℃、30-40s焙烘。
防泼水洗前5级,5次洗后4级;弹性伸长率≥12%,弹性回复率≥80%;耐光色牢度等级4-5级。
本发明工艺制备的耐晒全涤仿棉面料,仿棉的效果是由纺织、染色、后整理综合形成的,织造时经纬线PET/PTT组分的质量比例及纤度、捻度、经纬密等参数是主要的影响因素;后续染色加工时,预定型条件、减量率的高低均直接影响面料成品的风格及手感;后整理的硅乳则形成面料柔软手感及防水、耐晒功能。
上述性能指标测试方法:防泼水性能测试测试参照GB/T 4745-2012《纺织品防水性能的检测和评价沾水法》;弹性测试参照FZ/T 01034-2008《纺织品机织物拉伸弹性试验方法》;耐光色牢度测试参照GB/T 8427-2019《纺织品色牢度试验耐人造光色牢度:氙弧》。

Claims (9)

1.一种耐晒全涤仿棉面料的加工方法,包括以下步骤:
(1)PTT/PET双组份复合弹力丝织造成面料;
(2)面料进行染色加工;
(3)定型整理;
所述的定型整理,具体步骤为:
a、配置整理液;整理液由交联剂与含二苯甲酮聚有机硅氧烷乳液混合而成;
b、浸轧面料;
c、高温定型烘干。
2.根据权利要求1所述的一种耐晒全涤仿棉面料的加工方法,其特征在于:所述的含二苯甲酮聚有机硅氧烷乳液,制备方法为:
在装有电动搅拌器、温度计、回流冷凝管的三口烧瓶中加入D4 90g、含二苯甲酮硅氧烷5g和KH602 2g,搅拌混合均匀,升温至90℃以上;再加入0.2g四甲基氢氧化铵,然后保持温度在120℃反应6小时,在表压为0.8MPa的压力下减压蒸馏脱除低沸物,然后升温至140℃分解催化剂四甲基氢氧化铵,并再次在0.8MPa的表压下减压蒸馏脱除低沸物,获得无色透明粘稠液体,即含二苯甲酮聚有机硅氧烷;含二苯甲酮聚有机硅氧烷与乳化剂按质量比10:1混合,搅拌过程中添加水和乙酸的混合物,搅拌至溶液呈透明状,得含二苯甲酮聚有机硅氧烷乳液。乳化剂由异构十三醇聚氧乙烯醚1307、异构十三醇聚氧乙烯醚1309、AEO-9按质量比2:2:1组成。
3.根据权利要求1所述的一种耐晒全涤仿棉面料的加工方法,其特征在于:交联剂为水性封端型聚氨酯。
4.根据权利要求1所述的一种耐晒全涤仿棉面料的加工方法,其特征在于:步骤(1)所述的PTT/PET双组份复合弹力丝,为消光100D/108F PET/PTT复合丝,PET、PTT质量比1:1。
5.根据权利要求1所述的一种耐晒全涤仿棉面料的加工方法,其特征在于:所述的染色加工,包括面料的精练、预定型、碱减量、染色工序。
6.根据权利要求5所述的一种耐晒全涤仿棉面料的加工方法,其特征在于:所述的精练,处方及工艺条件为精练剂2g/L、纯碱浓度10g/L、浴比1:10,面料在100℃条件下处理30min。
7.根据权利要求5所述的一种耐晒全涤仿棉面料的加工方法,其特征在于:所述的预定型,工艺条件为温度190~195℃、时间30~4Os。
8.根据权利要求5所述的一种耐晒全涤仿棉面料的加工方法,其特征在于:所述的碱减量,处方及工艺条件为NaOH质量浓度20g/L,浴比1:10,处理时间40min,处理温度110℃。
9.根据权利要求5所述的一种耐晒全涤仿棉面料的加工方法,其特征在于:所述的染色,具体步骤为常温下加入高温匀染剂和抗皱柔软剂→面料在染色机中处理10min→加入分散染料染,染液循环10min→升温至75℃→保温10min→升温至90℃→保温15min→升温至130℃→保温45min→降温至50℃→排液→水洗→还原清洗→水洗→出缸。
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