CN113925802A

CN113925802A - Soothing anti-irritation skin-care cream and preparation method thereof

Info

Publication number: CN113925802A
Application number: CN202110399240.3A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 曲召辉; 刘盼玉; 郑立波
Original assignee: Taihe Kangmei Beijing Research Institute of Traditional Chinese Medicine Co Ltd
Current assignee: Taihe Kangmei Beijing Research Institute of Traditional Chinese Medicine Co Ltd
Priority date: 2021-04-14
Filing date: 2021-04-14
Publication date: 2022-01-14

Abstract

The invention relates to the field of skin care products, and particularly relates to a soothing anti-irritation skin care cream and a preparation method thereof. The soothing and anti-irritation skin care cream disclosed by the invention forms a multi-dimensional soothing and repairing system with multiple effects through the synergistic interaction among the effect components. The soothing and anti-irritation skin care cream has the effects of relieving stabbing pain instantly, relieving itching instantly, relieving skin redness instantly, repairing skin barriers for a long time, resisting irritation, relieving skin sensitivity, improving skin tolerance and the like; meanwhile, the soothing and anti-irritation skin care cream has the effects of reducing skin moisture loss, tendering skin, reducing skin roughness and the like.

Description

Soothing anti-irritation skin-care cream and preparation method thereof

Technical Field

The invention belongs to the technical field of skin care products, and particularly relates to a soothing anti-irritation skin care cream and a preparation method thereof.

Background

In recent years, with the aggravation of external stimuli such as environmental pollution, computer radiation, cosmetic abuse and the like, various 'problem skins' such as 'allergy' manifestations of repeated skin redness, itching, dryness, stabbing pain and the like appear. However, the external irritation of the skin makes it difficult to find a specific "allergen" or to avoid the allergen, resulting in repeated attacks of skin problems. At present, more and more people feel sensitive skin, and the skin sensitivity becomes a hot spot problem affecting the skin health. The fundamental reason for the repeated appearance of skin problems is that the skin barrier is damaged, the skin barrier loses the normal protective function, and the skin moisture is lost to cause the skin to be dry, desquamation and pruritus; at the same time, most nonpathogenic pathogens normally present on the skin surface cross the damaged skin barrier into the skin interior, thereby triggering a series of skin inflammatory reactions. Impaired skin barrier is not only a manifestation of many skin diseases, but is also an important cause of the recurrent onset of many skin diseases. Therefore, repairing the skin barrier is particularly important for skin health.

At present, many barrier repair type products are on the market. The repairing components mainly comprise the following three components: 1) humectant: replenishing lost water from the stratum corneum, maintaining skin hydration including glycerin, urea, etc.; 2) a sealing agent: can form a hydrophobic thin oil film on the surface of skin, and has the function of reinforcing skin barrier, such as vaseline, shea butter, etc.; 3) "biomimetic" components identical or similar to the epidermal, dermal components: has the effect of repairing skin barrier, such as natural moisturizing factor, Prinsepia utilis Royle oil, ceramide, hyaluronic acid, etc. Most moisturizers and sealants that combat dryness do not fundamentally address skin problems. The most important thing to repair the skin barrier is to restore the skin lipid structure, and the composition of the lipid is ceramide, cholesterol and free fatty acid.

Patent (CN107320344A) discloses a soothing submicron particle size emulsion spray consisting of dimethicone, isononyl isononanoate, octyldodecanol, caprylic/capric triglyceride, dipentaerythritol hexacaprylate/hexacaprate, tocopheryl acetate, ceteareth-20, glyceryl stearate/ceteareth-20/ceteareth-12/cetearyl/cetyl palmitate, 1, 3-propanediol, glycerol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerin, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, EDTA-2NA, deionized water, water/butylene glycol/astragalus podophylla extract/saposhnikovia divaricata root extract/calendula officinalis extract/albizia julibrissin/gastrodia elata root extract and skin conditioning ingredients, wherein the skin conditioning component is one of sodium hyaluronate, trehalose, allantoin, and hydroxylated lecithin. The emulsion spray has effects of relieving, tranquilizing, replenishing water, and moistening, and has advantages of multiple effects, and is oily but not greasy, and easy to be absorbed by skin. However, the emulsion spray does not solve the fundamental reason of 'problem skin', only has the efficacy of relieving and calming, and is difficult to meet the requirements of sensitive skin people on the efficacy and the repair rate of the relieving and repairing product.

Aiming at the problems of insufficient efficacy and slow repair rate of the soothing and repairing products, the development of the skin care cream which has the functions of relieving irritation instantly, repairing skin barriers in a long-acting manner, resisting irritation, relieving skin sensitivity and improving skin tolerance is necessary.

Disclosure of Invention

Based on the defects of the prior art, the problem to be solved by the invention is to provide the soothing and anti-irritation skin care cream, and the soothing and anti-irritation skin care cream forms a multi-dimensional soothing and repairing system with multiple effects through the synergistic effect of the effect components. The soothing and anti-irritation skin care cream has the effects of relieving stabbing pain instantly, relieving itching instantly, relieving skin redness instantly, repairing skin barriers for a long time, resisting irritation, relieving skin sensitivity, improving skin tolerance and the like;

meanwhile, the soothing and anti-irritation skin care cream has the effects of reducing skin moisture loss, tendering skin, reducing skin roughness and the like.

The technical problem to be solved by the invention is realized by the following technical scheme:

in a first aspect, the invention provides a soothing anti-irritant skin care cream.

According to the invention, the soothing and anti-irritation skin-care cream comprises astragalus membranaceus root extract, saposhnikovia divaricata root extract, gastrodia elata root extract, calendula officinalis flower extract, albizia julibrissin flower extract, centella asiatica extract, ceramide, lecithin and phytosterol.

According to the invention, the addition amount of the astragalus membranaceus root extract is 0.01-5.0 wt% in percentage by weight of the cream.

According to the invention, the addition amount of the radix sileris extract is 0.01-5.0 wt% of the weight percentage of the face cream.

According to the invention, the calendula extract is added in an amount of 0.01-5.0 wt% based on the weight percentage of the cream.

According to the invention, the albizia julibrissin durazzini extract is added in an amount of 0.01-5.0 wt% in percentage by weight of the cream.

According to the invention, the addition amount of the rhizoma gastrodiae root extract is 0.01-5.0 wt% in terms of the weight percentage of the cream.

According to the invention, the centella asiatica extract is added in an amount of 0.01 wt% to 5.0 wt% based on the weight percentage of the cream.

According to the invention, the ceramide is added in an amount of 0.01-0.5 wt% in percentage by weight of the cream.

According to the invention, the lecithin is added in an amount of 0.01-1.0 wt% based on the weight percentage of the cream.

According to the invention, the addition amount of phytosterol is 0.01-1.0 wt% of the weight percentage of the cream.

According to the invention, the ceramide comprises one or more of ceramide 3, ceramide 1 and ceramide 6 II.

According to the invention, the phytosterol comprises one or more of phytosterol, phytosterol ester, phytosterol isostearate and phytosterol derivatives.

According to the invention, the lecithin comprises one or more of lecithin, hydrogenated lecithin and hydroxylated lecithin.

According to the invention, the conventional auxiliary materials comprise a humectant, a chelating agent, a thickening agent, an emulsifier, fatty alcohol, an emollient, a skin conditioner, an antioxidant, a preservative and an essence.

According to the invention, the humectant comprises one or more of polyalcohol, trehalose, sodium hyaluronate and enzyme-digested oligomeric sodium hyaluronate.

According to the invention, the polyalcohol comprises one or more of glycerol, butanediol, propanediol, dipropylene glycol and pentanediol.

According to the invention, the chelating agent comprises one or more of disodium EDTA, trisodium EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, and sodium glucoheptonate.

According to the invention, the thickening agent comprises one or more of xanthan gum, sodium polyacrylate grafted starch, carrageenan, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl acrylate/acryloyl dimethyl sodium taurate copolymer and acryloyl dimethyl ammonium taurate/VP copolymer.

According to the invention, the emulsifier comprises one or more of sucrose stearate, cetearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, cocoyl glucoside, glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate.

According to the invention, the fatty alcohol comprises one or more of cetyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol.

According to the invention, the emollient comprises one or more of shea butter, sunflower seed oil, shea butter, macadamia nut oil, jojoba esters, polydimethylsiloxane, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymer, isostearyl alcohol isostearate, jojoba seed oil, and beeswax.

According to the invention, the skin conditioning agent is one or more of tocopherol acetate, bisabolol and allantoin.

According to the invention, the antioxidant is pentaerythritol tetrakis (bis-tert-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate) ester.

According to the invention, the soothing and anti-irritation skin-care cream comprises the following components: component A, component B, component C and component D.

According to the invention, the component A comprises water, polyhydric alcohol, chelating agent, thickening agent, sodium hyaluronate, trehalose and allantoin.

According to the invention, component B comprises emulsifiers, fatty alcohols, vegetable fats and oils, isostearyl isostearate, ceramide 3, lecithin, phytosterols, pentaerythritol tetrakis (di-tert-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate).

According to the invention, component C comprises a thickener, an emollient.

According to the invention, the component D comprises essence, preservative, astragalus membranaceus root extract, divaricate saposhnikovia root extract, calendula officinalis flower extract, albizia flower extract, gastrodia elata root extract and centella asiatica extract.

According To some embodiments of the invention, the component a comprises, in weight percent of the cream, water To100, polyol 3.0 wt% To 15.0 wt%, chelating agent 0 To 1.0 wt%, thickener 0.05 wt% To 3.0 wt%, sodium hyaluronate 0 To 1.0 wt%, trehalose 0 To 5.0 wt%, allantoin 0.01 wt% To 1.0 wt%; and/or component B comprises 0.5-5.0 wt% of emulsifier, 0.5-10.0 wt% of fatty alcohol, 0.5-5.0 wt% of vegetable fat, 0-10.0 wt% of isostearyl isostearate, 30.01-0.5 wt% of ceramide, 0.01-1.0 wt% of lecithin, 0.01-1.0 wt% of phytosterol, and 0.01-0.1 wt% of pentaerythritol tetra (di-tert-butyl hydroxy hydrocinnamic acid) ester; and/or component C comprises 0-2.0 wt% of thickener, 0-4.0 wt% of emollient; and/or component D comprises essence 0-1.0 wt%, antiseptic 0-2.0 wt%, Astragalus membranaceus root extract 0.01-5.0 wt%, Saposhnikovia divaricata root extract 0.01-5.0 wt%, calendula officinalis flower extract 0.01-5.0 wt%, Albizia julibrissin flower extract 0.01-5.0 wt%, Gastrodia elata root extract 0.01-5.0 wt%, and centella asiatica extract 0.01-5.0 wt%. According to some specific embodiments of the present invention, the skin care cream comprises the following raw materials in parts by weight:

component A, water To100, 1.0 To 7.0 weight percent of butanediol, 2.0 To 8.0 weight percent of glycerol, 0.01 To 1.00 weight percent of EDTA disodium, 0 To 2.0 weight percent of xanthan gum, 0 To 0.02 weight percent of sodium hyaluronate, 1.0 To 5.0 weight percent of trehalose and 0.1 To 1.0 weight percent of allantoin;

component B, cetearyl alcohol/cetearyl glucoside 0.25% -2.5%, arachidyl alcohol/behenyl alcohol/arachidyl alcohol glucoside 0.25% -2.5%, cetearyl alcohol 1.0% -5.0%, shea butter 0.5% -3.5%, isostearyl alcohol isostearate 1.0% -3.0%, ceramide 30.01% -0.5%, lecithin 0.01% -1.0%, phytosterols 0.01% -1.0%, polydimethyl siloxane 1.0% -4.0%, tocopherol acetate 0-2.0%, bisabolol 0-1.0%, pentaerythritol tetrakis (di-tert-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate) 0.01% -0.10%;

component C, 0-2.0 wt% of hydroxyethyl acrylate/acryloyl dimethyl sodium taurate copolymer and 0-4.0 wt% of polydimethylsiloxane/polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymer; component D, 0 to 0.8 weight percent of phenoxyethanol/ethylhexylglycerin, 0.01 to 5.0 weight percent of astragalus membranaceus root extract, 0.01 to 5.0 weight percent of divaricate saposhnikovia root extract, 0.01 to 5.0 weight percent of calendula officinalis extract, 0.01 to 5.0 weight percent of albizia julibrissin flower extract, 0.01 to 5.0 weight percent of gastrodia elata root extract and 0.01 to 5.0 weight percent of centella asiatica extract.

According to some specific embodiments of the present invention, the skin care cream comprises the following raw materials in parts by weight:

component C, 0-2.0 wt% of hydroxyethyl acrylate/acryloyl dimethyl sodium taurate copolymer and 0-4.0 wt% of polydimethylsiloxane/polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymer; component D, 0 to 0.8 weight percent of phenoxyethanol/ethylhexylglycerin, 0.01 to 3.0 weight percent of astragalus membranaceus root extract, 0.01 to 3.0 weight percent of divaricate saposhnikovia root extract, 0.01 to 3.0 weight percent of calendula officinalis extract, 0.01 to 3.0 weight percent of albizia julibrissin flower extract, 0.01 to 3.0 weight percent of gastrodia elata root extract and 0.01 to 3.0 weight percent of centella asiatica extract.

In a second aspect, the invention provides a method for preparing the soothing and anti-irritation skin-care cream of the first aspect.

According to the invention, the preparation method of the soothing and anti-irritation skin-care cream is a conventional preparation method of cream in the field of cosmetics.

According to the invention, component C comprises a thickener, an emollient.

According To some embodiments of the invention, the component a comprises, in weight percent of the cream, water To100, polyol 3.0 wt% To 15.0 wt%, chelating agent 0 To 1.0 wt%, thickener 0.05 wt% To 3.0 wt%, sodium hyaluronate 0 To 1.0 wt%, trehalose 0 To 5.0 wt%, allantoin 0.01 wt% To 1.0 wt%; and/or component B comprises 0.5-5.0 wt% of emulsifier, 0.5-10.0 wt% of fatty alcohol, 0.5-5.0 wt% of vegetable fat, 0-10.0 wt% of isostearyl isostearate, 30.01-0.5 wt% of ceramide, 0.01-1.0 wt% of lecithin, 0.01-1.0 wt% of phytosterol, and 0.01-0.1 wt% of pentaerythritol tetra (di-tert-butyl hydroxy hydrocinnamic acid) ester; and/or component C comprises 0-2.0 wt% of thickener, 0-4.0 wt% of emollient; and/or component D comprises essence 0-1.0 wt%, antiseptic 0-2.0 wt%, Astragalus membranaceus root extract 0.01-5.0 wt%, Saposhnikovia divaricata root extract 0.01-5.0 wt%, calendula officinalis flower extract 0.01-5.0 wt%, Albizia julibrissin flower extract 0.01-5.0 wt%, Gastrodia elata root extract 0.01-5.0 wt%, and centella asiatica extract 0.01-5.0 wt%.

According to some embodiments of the present invention, the method for preparing the soothing and anti-irritation skin cream comprises the following steps:

1) stirring the phase A until the phase A is completely dissolved, heating to 80-85 ℃, and preserving heat;

2) stirring phase B until completely dissolved, heating to 80-85 deg.C, and maintaining the temperature;

3) adding the phase B into the phase A raw material, homogenizing for 3-5 min, and preserving heat;

4) stirring and cooling to 60-65 deg.C, adding phase C, homogenizing for 2min, and stirring;

5) cooling to 45 deg.C, adding phase D, and stirring;

6) stirring and cooling, cooling to below 38 ℃, filtering and discharging.

The invention has the beneficial effects that:

1) the soothing and anti-irritation skin care cream disclosed by the invention forms a multi-dimensional soothing and repairing system with multiple effects through the synergistic interaction among the effect components. Starting from the root cause of the generation of 'problem skin', the problem that the existing soothing and repairing products are difficult to meet the requirements of sensitive skin crowds on efficacy and repairing rate is solved.

2) The soothing and anti-irritation skin care cream disclosed by the invention has the effects of relieving stabbing pain instantly, relieving itching instantly, relieving skin redness instantly, repairing a skin barrier for a long time, resisting irritation, relieving skin sensitivity, improving skin tolerance and the like.

3) The soothing and anti-irritation skin care cream has the effects of reducing skin moisture loss, tendering skin, reducing skin roughness and the like.

Drawings

FIG. 1 is a graph of the soothing effect of various samples on lactic acid induced stinging sensation;

FIG. 2 is a graph showing the effect of different samples on relieving itching induced by lactic acid;

FIG. 3 is a photograph showing the degree of damage in a capsaicin-stimulated test area;

FIG. 4 is a Tivi image of the skin in the lactic acid challenge test area;

FIG. 5 is a graph showing the results of the rate of change of skin hemoglobin index EI relative to the mean of the initial values at various time points after use of the samples;

FIG. 6 is a graph of the rate of change of the mean value of skin TEWL relative to the mean value of the initial value at various time points after use;

FIG. 7 is a graph of skin moisture content after use of the samples;

FIG. 8 is a graph showing the results of the rate of change in the mean value of transdermal water loss after use of the sample;

FIG. 9 is a graph showing the results of the rate of change of the mean value of the hemoglobin index EI after use;

FIG. 10 is a graph of the soothing effect on stinging using different samples;

FIG. 11 is a graph of the soothing effect on stinging using different samples;

FIG. 12 is a graph of skin changes under cross-polarized light (red zone) before use, after 8 weeks of use;

fig. 13 is a graph showing the results of the rate of change in the mean skin smoothness index SEsm at each time point after use (significant difference from the initial value: P < 0.05).

Detailed Description

The invention is further illustrated below with reference to specific examples, to which, however, the invention is not restricted.

It should be appreciated by those skilled in the art that the present invention is not limited to the above embodiments, and any changes and modifications to the present invention are within the scope of the present invention.

The experimental methods described in the following examples are all conventional methods unless otherwise specified; the experimental materials and reagents are commercially available, unless otherwise specified.

Centella asiatica extract (commercially available in the conventional market) can tighten the skin, make the skin soft, smooth and elastic; can increase water content of stratum corneum, and has effects of supplementing water and keeping moisture.

Rhizoma Gastrodiae root extract (commercially available) has good antiinflammatory, analgesic and tranquilizing effects.

The albizzia julibrissin flower extract (purchased from general markets) contains a large amount of albizzia julibrissin and tannin, has good tranquilizing and allaying excitement effects, and keeps toughness and elasticity of skin.

The calendula extract (which is conventionally purchased in the market) has natural repairing performance, and makes the skin more glossy and elastic.

The radix Saposhnikoviae extract (commercially available) has effects of inhibiting delayed type hypersensitivity caused by DNCB (dinitrochlorobenzene), and has good antiinflammatory and antiallergic effects.

The radix astragali saponin contained in the radix astragali extract (commercially available) has effects of regulating skin, resisting aging, and preventing wrinkle.

Phytosterols (conventionally available) have high permeability to skin and can maintain skin surface moisture.

Lecithin (commercially available in the conventional market) has moisturizing effect, good hydrophilicity and lipophilicity, and can increase skin luster after being used.

Ceramide 3 (commercially available in general) is an artificially synthesized lipid substance, has a structure similar to that of a substance forming the horny layer of the skin, can quickly permeate into the skin, is combined with water in the horny layer to form a net structure, locks water and has a good effect of moisturizing and repairing the skin.

Cetearyl alcohol/cetearyl glucoside (conventional commercially available) is an O/W type emulsifier with self-emulsifying self-thickening effect; the oleophylic group and the hydrophilic glucose group are both plant sources and have no solvent; the emulsion property is excellent, and the product has smooth and plump skin feeling.

Butanediol, conventional commercial, CAS No.: 107-88-0.

Glycerol, conventional commercial, CAS No.: 56-81-5.

Disodium EDTA, conventional commercial, CAS No.: 6381-92-6.

Xanthan gum, conventional commercial, CAS No.: 11138-66-2.

Allantoin, conventional commercial, CAS No.: 97-59-6.

Cetostearyl alcohol, conventionally available commercially, CAS No.: 67762-27-0.

Shea butter, conventionally commercially available, CAS No.: 91080-23-8.

Pentaerythritol tetrakis (bis-tert-butylhydroxyhydrocinnamate), conventional commercial available, CAS number: 6683-19-8.

Phenoxyethanol/ethylhexyl glycerin, conventionally commercially available, CAS No.: 901-44-0.

Isostearyl isostearate, conventional commercial, CAS No.: 41669-30-1.

Polydimethylsiloxane, conventional commercial, CAS No.: 9006-65-9.

Hydrogenated polyisobutene, conventional commercial, CAS No.: 68937-10-0.

Examples 1 to 8

Examples 1-8 soothing and anti-irritation skin care cream compositions and ratios are shown in table 1.

TABLE 1 soothing and anti-irritant skin care cream composition and ratio

Comparative examples 1 to 8

Comparative examples 1-8 soothing and anti-irritation skin care cream components and ratios are shown in table 2.

TABLE 2 soothing and anti-irritant skin-care cream composition and ratio

Market contest

The main components comprise water, butanediol, radix astragali extract, radix Saposhnikoviae extract, herba Sidae Rhombifoliae extract, flos Albizziae extract, rhizoma Gastrodiae extract, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, ceteareth-20, glyceryl stearate, ceteareth-12, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl palmitate, hydrogenated lecithin, 1, 3-propylene glycol, glycerol, etc.

1. Immediate relief test

1.1 relieving itching and stinging

Test samples: comparative examples 1-8, example 1 and commercial offerings;

testing the population: 45 volunteers (18-55 years old, male and female unlimited);

testing parts: nasolabial folds on both sides of the face;

testing an instrument: skin sensitivity imager (Tivi 700);

the test method comprises the following steps: filters (about 0.8cm in diameter) soaked with 50. mu.L of a 10% lactic acid solution were applied simultaneously to the nasolabial folds on both sides of the test person, and were removed when they felt the stimulation score to be equal to or greater than 2 points (stimulation end point). Test samples are smeared on the test areas on the two sides simultaneously, the two samples in the same group are randomly distributed at the nasolabial folds on the two sides of a tester, the sample smearing amount of each area is 0.1mL, the samples are used for 0min, 0.5min, 2.5min, 5min, 8min, 15min and 30min, and the tester subjectively evaluates the itching feeling and the stabbing pain feeling at the nasolabial folds on the two sides. The immediate soothing efficacy of the test samples on the stimulus and the inter-sample variation were evaluated by the inter-sample stimulus degree comparison. Evaluation was performed by a 4-point method, and sensory evaluation was performed on the sensation of prickling, itching, etc. (0: no sensation, 1: slight sensation, 2: moderate sensation, and 3: strong sensation), and the score was accurate to 0.5 point. The change in the prickle and scrapie scores in the test area after use of the test samples are shown in Table 3 and FIGS. 1-2.

TABLE 3 values of tingling and itching sensations in different areas

As can be seen from Table 3 and FIGS. 1-2, example 1 has a better soothing effect on the stinging sensation and itching sensation caused by lactic acid stimulation than the comparative example and the commercially available auction products. Compared with comparative examples 1-5, in the example 1, the composition and the proportion of the components of the formula disclosed by the invention are improved by blending the ceramide, the lecithin, the phytosterol, the astragalus membranaceus root extract, the saposhnikovia divaricata root extract, the calendula officinalis flower extract, the albizia julibrissin flower extract, the gastrodia elata root extract and the centella asiatica extract, so that the effect of immediately relieving the stabbing pain and the pruritus is improved; compared with the comparative ratio of 6-8, in the embodiment 1, the ceramide, the lecithin, the phytosterol and the plant source active substances are compounded for use, and the components are synergistic, so that the effect of instantly relieving stabbing pain and pruritus of the formula is improved. Experimental data show that the soothing and anti-irritation skin care cream has the effect of immediately relieving stabbing pain and itching caused by external irritation.

1.2 relieving skin redness

Test samples: comparative examples 1-8, example 1 and commercial offerings;

testing parts: a face;

testing an instrument: media Cybernetics Image-Pro Plus 7.0;

the test method comprises the following steps: subjects were subjected to Image acquisition of facial skin using the VISIA Image analysis system for the same population of subjects, and the a values of the skin were measured before and 30min after sample application using Media Cybernetics Image-Pro Plus 7.0. The value a is an index for representing the redness of the skin, and the larger the value a is, the more severe the redness of the skin is. The average rate of change of skin a values is shown in table 4.

Table 4 mean rate of change of skin a values after application of each product

As can be seen from table 4, example 1 has a better red-reducing effect on lactic acid-stimulated redness than the comparative example and the commercial offerings. Compared with comparative examples 1-5, in example 1, the composition and the proportion of the ingredients of the formula disclosed by the invention are improved, so that the effect of instantly relieving the skin redness is improved; compared with the comparative ratio of 6-8, in the embodiment 1, the ceramide, the lecithin, the phytosterol and the plant source active substances are compounded for use, and the components are synergistic, so that the effect of the formula of the invention on immediately relieving the skin redness is improved. Experimental data shows that the soothing and anti-irritation skin care cream can immediately and effectively relieve skin redness caused by external irritation.

Since comparative examples 6 to 8 were poor in the soothing effect against the stinging sensation, itching sensation and redness caused by lactic acid stimulation, the subsequent tests were conducted by using comparative examples 1 to 5 for comparative investigation.

2. Anti-irritation test

Test samples: comparative examples 1-5, example 1 and commercial offerings;

testing the population: 9 volunteers (18-55 years old, male and female unlimited);

testing parts: 8 areas of the forearm of the arm;

testing an instrument: skin sensitivity imager (Tivi 700);

picture acquisition time point: the time before the sample is used is 0min, after capsaicin stimulation is carried out for 20min (immediately after a membrane containing capsaicin solution surface is taken down), after capsaicin stimulation is carried out for 30min (after the membrane containing capsaicin solution surface is taken down for 10 min), after capsaicin stimulation is carried out for 40min (after the membrane containing capsaicin solution surface is taken down for 20 min), and after capsaicin stimulation is carried out for 50min (after the membrane containing capsaicin solution surface is taken down for 30 min).

The test method comprises the following steps: respectively selecting test areas with the same area in forearm areas of two arms of a volunteer, smearing 0.1mL of test samples, applying a facial mask soaked with 20 muL of 0.01% capsaicin solution to the areas smeared with the test samples after absorption, wrapping the facial mask with a preservative film for 20min, taking the lower facial mask, and collecting skin pictures by using a skin sensitivity imager (Tivi700), wherein the experimental result is shown in figure 3.

As shown in FIG. 3, the blank area was damaged most strongly and the area of the applied test sample was not damaged much after capsaicin stimulation for 50min, wherein the area of the applied sample of example 1 was damaged least. The damage degree is ranked as: blank > commercial race ≈ comparative example 1> comparative example 5> comparative example 3> comparative example 2 ≈ comparative example 4> example 1. Example 1 has a better antagonism to capsaicin challenge than the commercial offers and comparative examples, probably because the combination of ceramide, lecithin, phytosterols and botanical actives increases the anti-irritation efficacy of the cream, indicating that the soothing anti-irritation skin cream of the present invention effectively enhances the skin's ability to resist external irritation.

3. Skin sensitivity mitigation test

A skin damage model is established by SDS stimulation of a certain concentration, a test sample is continuously smeared on damaged skin for 5 days, and the repairing efficacy of the sample on the damaged skin caused by the SDS stimulation is evaluated through skin sensitivity imaging, skin heme and percutaneous water loss TEWL test.

Test samples: comparative examples 1-5, example 1 and commercial offerings;

testing parts: randomly selecting 8 areas on the back of the volunteer;

the test method comprises the following steps: the test samples were applied 2 times a day for 5 consecutive days, and skin sensitivity imaging, skin hemoglobin, and transdermal water loss were measured at the test area before application of the samples after model creation (D0), and after application of the samples for 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5 days (D1-D5).

3.1 skin sensitivity imaging test

Testing an instrument: a skin sensitivity tester (Tivi700, Wheels Bridge, sweden) quantitatively analyzes the concentration of red blood cells by using the absorption characteristics of red blood cells to green light, and generates an image according to the analysis result, wherein the color of the image indicates the sensitivity of the skin. The closer the image color is to red, the more severe the skin redness is indicated.

The Tivi700 images of the skin before use (D0), after 1 day of use of the sample (D1), after 2 days (D2), after 3 days (D3), after 4 days (D4), after 5 days (D5) are shown in FIG. 4.

As can be seen from fig. 4, the area of the sample using example 1 had been substantially restored to the normal level after 5 days using the test sample. In the same time, compared with blank, commercial competitive products and comparative examples, the recovery time of the area in the example 1 is shortest, and when ceramide, lecithin, phytosterol and plant source active substances are compounded for use, the skin soothing and anti-irritation cream has a synergistic effect on repairing sensitive skin, shortens the time of soothing and sensitivity relieving, and also has the effect of effectively repairing damaged skin.

3.2 skin hemoglobin test

Testing an instrument: skin heme tester Mexameter (MX18, Courage and khazaka, germany);

results of skin hemoglobin test before use (D0), after 1 day of use of the sample (D1), after 2 days (D2), after 3 days (D3), after 4 days (D4), after 5 days (D5) are shown in table 5 and fig. 5. The larger the skin hemoglobin index EI value, the higher the skin hemoglobin content.

TABLE 5 skin hemoglobin index EI values before and after sample application and statistical results

As shown in Table 5 and FIG. 5, at the test time, the decrease rate of the EI value of the hemoglobin index of the area coated in example 1 was larger than that of the blank area, the area of the commercially available competitive products and the area of the comparative example, which indicates that the soothing and anti-irritation skin care cream of the present invention can significantly reduce the hemoglobin content of the test area and effectively relieve the redness of sensitive skin in a short period of time. Experimental data show that when the ceramide, the lecithin, the phytosterol and the plant source active substances are compounded for use, the skin sensitivity can be effectively relieved in a short time, and the skin redness degree can be reduced.

3.3 transdermal Water loss test

Testing an instrument: skin moisture loss tester Aqua Flux (AF200, BIOX, uk);

the results of skin moisture loss before use (D0), after 1 day (D1), after 2 days (D2), after 3 days (D3), after 4 days (D4), and after 5 days (D5) with the samples are shown in table 6 and fig. 6. The larger the number, the faster the transdermal water loss of the skin.

TABLE 6 mean values of TEWL loss on skin before and after application and statistical results

As shown in table 6 and fig. 6, the mean TEWL values for all test areas were decreased compared to before use (D0); compared with a blank area, a market competitive product area and a comparative example area, the reduction range of the skin moisture loss in the area of the example 1 is larger at the same test time point, which shows that the soothing and anti-irritation skin cream prepared by compounding the plant source active substances, the ceramide, the lecithin and the phytosterol has better capability of inhibiting the skin moisture loss, and further shows that the soothing and anti-irritation skin cream has the effect of soothing and sensitizing the skin.

4. Long term repair skin barrier test

Test samples: comparative examples 1-5, example 1 and commercial offerings;

testing the population: selecting 30 testers;

testing parts: a face;

testing an instrument: skin sensitivity imager (Tivi 700); skin heme tester Mexameter (MX18, Courage and Khazaka, germany); skin moisture loss tester aquaflux (AF200, BIOX, uk), facial image analyzer (VISIA-CR);

the using method comprises the following steps: the test sample replaces daily used face cream, and is used 1 time each day in the morning and evening, about 0.6g of the sample is respectively and uniformly smeared on the whole face each time, and the face cream is gently massaged until the absorption is complete. During the 8 week test period, the test persons did not take or use any soothing related products, and all volunteers normally diet during the test period without changing the original eating habits.

The test method comprises the following steps: through 8-week human body test, the moisture content and the percutaneous moisture loss content of the face of a tester are changed before the test sample is used and after the test sample is continuously used for 2 weeks, 4 weeks, 6 weeks and 8 weeks, and the moisturizing effect of the test sample is evaluated; the face imaging and skin heme changes of the testers are evaluated, and the red removing effect of the samples is evaluated. Then selecting 20 lactic acid stimulation intolerant persons (screening conditions are that the subjects feel that the lactic acid stimulation score reaches more than or equal to 2 points) to carry out a facial imaging test and a lactic acid sting test, and evaluating the efficacy of the sample for improving the skin tolerance; VISIA-CR photographs of a front view of the face in cross-polarized light (red zone) illuminant mode of the face were taken and the red-removing effect of the samples was evaluated.

The face was tested for moisture content, transdermal water dispersion and skin red melanin before use, after 2 weeks, 4 weeks, 6 weeks and 8 weeks of use, and the results are shown in fig. 7-9. Lactic acid challenge test, facial imaging test (VISIA-CR) was performed on the face before use, 4 weeks after use, and 8 weeks after use, and the test results are shown in fig. 10-12.

As shown in fig. 7-8, compared with the blank, the commercial competitive products and the comparative example, the example 1 has the largest increase range of the moisture content of the skin and the largest reduction range of the moisture loss of the skin in 8 weeks before use, which shows that the soothing and anti-irritation skin cream prepared by compounding the plant source active substances with the ceramide, the lecithin and the phytosterol has the effects of increasing the moisture content of the skin and reducing the moisture loss of the skin. Experimental results show that the soothing and anti-irritation skin care cream has the effects of long-acting moisturizing and water locking, long-acting repair of skin barriers and improvement of skin tolerance.

As shown in fig. 9, the skin heme index EI value tended to decrease after 8 weeks of use compared to before use. Example 1 showed the greatest reduction in skin heme index EI values over 8 weeks of use compared to the blank, commercial races, and comparative examples, and the skin heme index EI values were significantly different from the initial values after 8 weeks of use (P < 0.05). Experiments prove that the soothing and anti-irritation skin care cream can reduce the EI value of the skin heme index, and can effectively reduce the skin redness.

As shown in fig. 10-11, the mean scores for lactic acid-induced skin prickling and itching were decreasing after 8 weeks of use compared to before use; the average of the stinging and scratchiness reduction was greatest in example 1 after 4 and 8 weeks of use of the sample, as compared to the blank, commercial treat and comparative example. Experiments prove that the soothing and anti-irritation skin care cream can reduce the pricking feeling and the itching feeling caused by lactic acid irritation, repair the skin barrier for a long time and improve the skin tolerance.

VISIA-CR takes a photograph of a front view of the face of the test person in cross-polarized light (red zone) source mode before use, after 2 weeks, 4 weeks, 6 weeks, and 8 weeks, as shown in fig. 12. After 8 weeks of use of the sample, the subjects using example 1 had a substantial reduction in facial redness as compared to the blank, commercial contest, and comparative example. Experiments prove that the skin care cream can effectively relieve the skin redness problem, repair the skin barrier for a long time and improve the skin tolerance.

5. Tenderizing skin and reducing roughness

Testing the population: 8 volunteers (18-55 years old, male and female unlimited);

testing parts: 6 test areas on the lateral side of the volunteer's calf;

testing an instrument: skin microscope and active skin surface analysis system VisioScan VC98(Courage and Khazaka, germany) was irradiated to the skin with circular UVA light, and light reflected from the stratum corneum of the skin surface was collected by CCD to obtain a texture image of the skin surface. The software converts the collected images into gray level images, and data analysis results are obtained based on comparison of gray level values. Dark in the image represents wrinkles, light represents bumps, and white represents exfoliated cutin, i.e., scales. Parameters for evaluating the skin surface state are obtained through SELS analysis of special active skin surface evaluation software. Where SEsm is the skin smoothness index, the smaller the value, the smoother the skin. The skin smoothness index SEsm was used as a parameter for evaluating skin roughness.

Skin roughness tests were performed on the lateral aspect of the calf before sample application, 0.5h, 1h, 2h and 4h after sample application, and the test results are shown in table 7 and fig. 13.

TABLE 7 smoothness index SEsm mean values before use, after use of the samples and statistical results

As shown in table 7 and fig. 13, example 1 showed a greater reduction in skin smoothness index SEsm over the test period and a significant difference at 0.5h compared to the blank, commercial and comparative samples.

Experiments prove that the soothing and anti-irritation skin care cream has the effects of reducing skin roughness and tendering skin on the basis of soothing, relieving skin sensitivity and repairing skin barriers for a long time by compounding ceramide, lecithin, phytosterol and plant source active substances.

Claims

1. A soothing and anti-irritation skin-care cream is characterized in that the addition amount of an astragalus membranaceus root extract is 0.01-5.0 wt%, the addition amount of a saposhnikovia divaricata root extract is 0.01-5.0 wt%, the addition amount of a calendula officinalis flower extract is 0.01-5.0 wt%, the addition amount of an albizia julibrissin flower extract is 0.01-5.0 wt%, the addition amount of a gastrodia elata root extract is 0.01-5.0 wt%, the addition amount of an centella asiatica extract is 0.01-5.0 wt%, the addition amount of ceramide is 0.01-0.5 wt%, the addition amount of lecithin is 0.01-1.0 wt%, and the addition amount of phytosterols is 0.01-1.0 wt%.

2. The soothing and anti-irritant skin care cream as claimed in claim 1, further comprising a humectant, a chelating agent, a thickener, an emulsifier, a fatty alcohol, an emollient, a skin conditioner, an antioxidant, a preservative, an essence, which are conventional cosmetic adjuvants.

3. A soothing anti-irritation skin cream according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the moisturizer comprises one or more of polyol, trehalose, sodium hyaluronate, enzyme-cleaved oligomeric sodium hyaluronate, and/or the chelating agent comprises one or more of disodium EDTA, trisodium EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, and sodium glucoheptonate, and/or the thickener comprises one or more of xanthan gum, sodium polyacrylate grafted starch, carrageenan, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, and/or the emulsifier comprises one or more of sucrose stearate, cetearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, cocoyl glucoside, glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, and/or the fatty alcohol comprises cetyl alcohol, One or more of arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and cetostearyl alcohol, and/or the emollient comprises one or more of shea butter, sunflower seed oil, shea butter, macadamia oil, jojoba esters, polydimethylsiloxane, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymer, isostearyl alcohol isostearate, jojoba seed oil and beeswax, and/or the skin conditioner is one or more of tocopherol acetate, bisabolol and allantoin, and/or the antioxidant is pentaerythritol tetra (di-tert-butyl hydroxy hydrocinnamate).

4. A soothing anti-irritant skin care cream according to any of claims 1 to 3, wherein the soothing anti-irritant skin care cream comprises the following components: the composition comprises a component A, a component B, a component C and a component D, wherein the component A comprises water, polyalcohol, a chelating agent, a thickening agent, sodium hyaluronate, trehalose and allantoin; and/or component B comprises emulsifiers, fatty alcohols, vegetable fats and oils, isostearyl isostearate, ceramide 3, lecithin, phytosterols, pentaerythritol tetrakis (bis-tert-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate); and/or component C comprises thickeners, emollients; and/or component D comprises essence, antiseptic, radix astragali extract, radix Saposhnikoviae extract, herba Sidae Rhombifoliae extract, flos Albizziae extract, rhizoma Gastrodiae extract, and herba Centellae extract.

5. A soothing anti-irritant skin care cream as claimed in claim 4, wherein component A comprises, in weight percent of the cream, water To100, polyol 3.0-15.0 wt%, chelating agent 0-1.0 wt%, thickening agent 0.05-3.0 wt%, sodium hyaluronate 0-1.0 wt%, trehalose 0-5.0 wt%, allantoin 0.01-1.0 wt%; and/or component B comprises 0.5-5.0 wt% of emulsifier, 0.5-10.0 wt% of fatty alcohol, 0.5-5.0 wt% of vegetable fat, 0-10.0 wt% of isostearyl isostearate, 30.01-0.5 wt% of ceramide, 0.01-1.0 wt% of lecithin, 0.01-1.0 wt% of phytosterol, and 0.01-0.1 wt% of pentaerythritol tetra (di-tert-butyl hydroxy hydrocinnamic acid) ester; and/or component C comprises 0-2.0 wt% of thickener, 0-4.0 wt% of emollient; and/or component D comprises essence 0-1.0 wt%, antiseptic 0-2.0 wt%, Astragalus membranaceus root extract 0.01-5.0 wt%, Saposhnikovia divaricata root extract 0.01-5.0 wt%, calendula officinalis flower extract 0.01-5.0 wt%, Albizia julibrissin flower extract 0.01-5.0 wt%, Gastrodia elata root extract 0.01-5.0 wt%, and centella asiatica extract 0.01-5.0 wt%.

6. The soothing and anti-irritation skin care cream according to claim 4 or 5, wherein the skin care cream comprises the following raw materials in parts by weight:

component A, water To100, 1.0 To 7.0 weight percent of butanediol, 2.0 To 8.0 weight percent of glycerol, 0.01 To 1.0 weight percent of EDTA disodium, 0 To 2.0 weight percent of xanthan gum, 0 To 0.02 weight percent of sodium hyaluronate, 1.0 To 5.0 weight percent of trehalose and 0.1 To 1.0 weight percent of allantoin; component B, cetearyl alcohol/cetearyl glucoside 0.25% -2.5%, arachidyl alcohol/behenyl alcohol/arachidyl alcohol glucoside 0.25% -2.5%, cetearyl alcohol 1.0% -5.0%, shea butter 0.5% -3.5%, isostearyl alcohol isostearate 1.0% -3.0%, ceramide 30.01% -0.5%, lecithin 0.01% -1.0%, phytosterols 0.01% -1.0%, polydimethyl siloxane 1.0% -4.0%, tocopherol acetate 0-2.0%, bisabolol 0-1.0%, pentaerythritol tetrakis (di-tert-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate) 0.01% -0.10%;

and the component C comprises 0-2.0 wt% of hydroxyethyl acrylate/acryloyl dimethyl sodium taurate copolymer and 0-4.0 wt% of polydimethylsiloxane/polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymer.

Component D, 0 to 0.8 weight percent of phenoxyethanol/ethylhexylglycerin, 0.01 to 5.0 weight percent of astragalus membranaceus root extract, 0.01 to 5.0 weight percent of divaricate saposhnikovia root extract, 0.01 to 5.0 weight percent of calendula officinalis extract, 0.01 to 5.0 weight percent of albizia julibrissin flower extract, 0.01 to 5.0 weight percent of gastrodia elata root extract and 0.1 to 5.0 weight percent of centella asiatica extract.

7. The soothing and anti-irritation skin care cream according to claim 6, wherein the skin care cream comprises the following raw materials in parts by weight:

Component D, 0 to 0.8 weight percent of phenoxyethanol/ethylhexylglycerin, 0.01 to 3.0 weight percent of astragalus membranaceus root extract, 0.01 to 3.0 weight percent of divaricate saposhnikovia root extract, 0.01 to 3.0 weight percent of calendula officinalis extract, 0.01 to 3.0 weight percent of albizia julibrissin flower extract, 0.01 to 3.0 weight percent of gastrodia elata root extract and 0.1 to 3.0 weight percent of centella asiatica extract.

8. A preparation method of a soothing and anti-irritation skin-care cream is characterized by comprising the following steps:

3) adding the phase B into the phase A raw material, and homogenizing for 3-5 min;

5) cooling to 45 deg.C, adding phase D, and stirring;

6) stirring and cooling, cooling to below 38 ℃, filtering and discharging.