CN111991251A - Water replenishing rod and preparation method thereof - Google Patents

Water replenishing rod and preparation method thereof Download PDF

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Publication number
CN111991251A
CN111991251A CN202010943456.7A CN202010943456A CN111991251A CN 111991251 A CN111991251 A CN 111991251A CN 202010943456 A CN202010943456 A CN 202010943456A CN 111991251 A CN111991251 A CN 111991251A
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parts
skin
phase
weight
water
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CN111991251B (en
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朱光群
张春华
何淋
刘逸华
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Global Cosmetics China Co ltd
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Global Cosmetics China Co ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67Vitamins
    • A61K8/673Vitamin B group
    • A61K8/675Vitamin B3 or vitamin B3 active, e.g. nicotinamide, nicotinic acid, nicotinyl aldehyde
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/345Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86Polyethers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/001Preparations for care of the lips
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/004Aftersun preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/005Preparations for sensitive skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/007Preparations for dry skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
    • A61K2800/5922At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

The invention provides a water replenishing rod and a preparation method thereof, wherein the water replenishing rod comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.01-10 parts of skin conditioner, 0.5-10 parts of humectant, 10-55 parts of emollient, 8-15 parts of plasticizer and 0.1-4 parts of emulsifier; the skin conditioning agent comprises a combination of niacinamide, bisabolol, xylitol, and beta-glucan. The skin conditioner, the humectant, the emollient, the shaping agent and the emulsifier in the water replenishing rod are mutually matched and synergically used to obtain the water replenishing rod of the solid water-in-oil emulsion, and the water replenishing rod can be used for specifically repairing the skin with the problems of dryness, sensitivity or darkness and the like; meanwhile, the moisturizing stick is moist and refreshing, is suitable for moisturizing skin and lips, can meet multiple application scenes of daily maintenance, pre-makeup moisturizing, makeup supplementing, after-sun repair and the like, is convenient to use, and meets the requirement of people for moisturizing skin at any time and any place.

Description

Water replenishing rod and preparation method thereof
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a water replenishing rod and a preparation method thereof.
Background
The skin is one of the important organs of the human body, has the functions of protecting the body, removing sweat, sensing cold and heat and pressure, and is also a mark for directly expressing the health and the aging of the human body. When the skin is vigorous in metabolism, smooth in blood circulation and rich in nutrition, the skin shows the appearance characteristics of fineness, smoothness, tenderness and extremely high elasticity, and wrinkles and color spots are not easy to appear; when skin metabolism is weakened, blood circulation is not smooth, and nutrient substances are poor, skin is dark and aged, and wrinkles and color spots are easy to generate. The outermost layer of the skin is a cuticle layer, which has the functions of protecting and moisturizing and can continuously regenerate, and the cuticle layer can be divided into five layers: stratum corneum, stratum lucidum, stratum granulosum, stratum spinosum and stratum basale. The stratum corneum, which is the outermost layer of the skin, is the natural barrier of the human body and is also very important in maintaining the moisture of the skin and keeping the skin moist but not dry. The stratum corneum acts as a barrier to control the loss of moisture from the outer skin, and it is believed that the stratum corneum has a water content of 12-20%, and that when the water content is less than 10%, the skin will appear dry, rough, or even chapped.
In recent years, people have brand new knowledge on skin moisturizing, and do not meet the requirements of past oil skin care, but pay attention to some fresh moisturizing products, so that various moisturizing products can be produced at the same time, and the market prospect is very considerable.
CN107714586A discloses a moisturizing and moisturizing cream containing aloe extract, which is composed of moisturizing active ingredients and conventional cosmetic ingredients, wherein the moisturizing active ingredients are contained in the moisturizing and moisturizing cream in the following mass percentages: 3-5% of aloe extract, 0.5-1.5% of clary sage oil and 2-5% of prinsepia utilis royle oil. The moisturizing cream is prepared by compounding three raw materials of aloe extract, clary sage oil and prinsepia utilis royle oil according to a specific proportion, and has a synergistic effect in the aspects of moisturizing; however, the moisturizing cream contains more oil and fat components, is sticky in use feel and poor in experience, and the moisturizing and repairing efficacies of the moisturizing cream are still to be improved.
CN108785173A discloses a moisturizing and hydrating composition, which comprises moisturizing ingredients comprising lupin extract, chamomile extract, pomegranate fruit extract, purslane extract, trehalose and sodium hyaluronate. The facial mask liquid prepared from the moisturizing and hydrating composition has a good moisturizing and hydrating effect, and can also have the effects of relieving and resisting allergy on skin. However, the facial mask moisturizing products can only be used after makeup removal, and cannot moisturize and moisturize the skin at any time when the skin is dry.
CN111150675A discloses a moisturizing essence with a long-term moisturizing effect, which comprises the following components: hyaluronic acid, pentanediol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, 1, 3-propanediol, panthenol, glycerin, polysorbate 20, tetrasodium EDTA, octanediol, ethylhexylglycerin, phenoxyethanol, and distilled water. The moisturizing essence can keep cells moist for 24 hours, is suitable for dry skin, and also has a certain anti-aging function. However, the efficacy of the moisturizing essence is mainly focused on moisturizing, the duration of the moisturizing effect is short, and the moisturizing effect needs to be improved.
The moisturizing and moisturizing products in the prior art mainly comprise cream, facial masks and essences, and the products can be used after makeup removal and skin cleaning, so that the requirements of people on moisturizing skin at any time and any place in work or outdoor activities cannot be met; in addition, the water-locking effective components in the moisturizing product are sticky and have poor experience feeling of people, and the texture is not fresh and cool.
Therefore, the development of a moisturizing product which can meet the requirement of people on moisturizing skin anytime and anywhere, has good use experience and good efficacy is a research focus in the field.
Disclosure of Invention
Aiming at the defects of the prior art, the invention aims to provide a water replenishing rod and a preparation method thereof, wherein the water replenishing rod has the effects of locking water, moisturizing, moistening skin, effectively relieving and reducing skin sensitivity through mutual cooperation of a skin conditioner with a repairing effect, a humectant, a light and mild skin feeling emollient, a shaping agent and an emulsifier, has the characteristics of water retention, moisture retention, refreshing and water-retaining texture, is convenient to use, and can meet the requirement of people on skin moisture replenishment at any time.
In order to achieve the purpose, the invention adopts the following technical scheme:
in a first aspect, the invention provides a water replenishing rod, which comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.01-10 parts of skin conditioner, 0.5-10 parts of humectant, 10-55 parts of emollient, 8-15 parts of plasticizer and 0.1-4 parts of emulsifier; the skin conditioning agent comprises a combination of niacinamide, bisabolol, xylitol, and beta-glucan.
The skin conditioner, the humectant, the emollient, the plasticizer and the emulsifier in the water replenishing rod provided by the invention are mutually matched and synergically synergistic to obtain the water replenishing rod of the solid water-in-oil emulsion, and the water replenishing rod can be used for specifically restoring the skin with the problems of dryness, sensitivity or darkness and the like. The skin conditioner adopts the combination of nicotinamide, bisabolol, xylitol and beta-glucan, wherein the nicotinamide can improve dark and yellow skin color and has the function of brightening the skin; the bisabolol has the effects of bacteriostasis, anti-inflammation, calming and relieving, and has good repair function on the skin damaged by ultraviolet rays; the xylitol has low viscosity and light texture and has remarkable effects on water locking and moisture retention and calming and relieving; the beta-glucan is mainly derived from oat, is linear unbranched macromolecular polysaccharide, has excellent performance in the aspects of promoting synthesis of collagen and hyaluronic acid, reconstruction of extracellular matrix and moisturizing, can help to reduce fine wrinkles and reduce rough skin, has good film-forming performance, and is beneficial to improving the overall use feeling of a moisturizing bar product. The skin conditioner can improve the skin state from multiple dimensions of water replenishing and water locking, skin color brightening, calming and relieving, after-sun repair, collagen and hyaluronic acid synthesis promotion and the like, repair damaged stratum corneum lipid barriers and improve the skin resistance through the synergistic compounding of the four active ingredients. The moisturizing stick provided by the invention is moist and refreshing, is suitable for moisturizing skin and lips, can meet multiple application scenes of daily maintenance, pre-makeup moisturizing, makeup supplementing, after-sun repair and the like, is convenient to use, and meets the requirement of people on moisturizing skin at any time and any place.
The skin conditioner is 0.01 to 10 parts by weight, for example, 0.03 parts by weight, 0.05 parts by weight, 0.08 parts by weight, 0.1 parts by weight, 0.3 parts by weight, 0.5 parts by weight, 0.8 parts by weight, 1 part by weight, 1.5 parts by weight, 2 parts by weight, 2.5 parts by weight, 3 parts by weight, 3.5 parts by weight, 4 parts by weight, 5 parts by weight, 5.5 parts by weight, 6 parts by weight, 6.5 parts by weight, 7 parts by weight, 7.5 parts by weight, 8 parts by weight, 8.5 parts by weight, 9 parts by weight, or 9.5 parts by weight, and specific point values therebetween are limited to space and for brevity, and the present invention is not exhaustive of the specific point values included in the range.
The humectant is 0.5 to 10 parts by weight, such as 0.8 part by weight, 1 part by weight, 1.5 parts by weight, 2 parts by weight, 2.5 parts by weight, 3 parts by weight, 3.5 parts by weight, 4 parts by weight, 5 parts by weight, 5.5 parts by weight, 6 parts by weight, 6.5 parts by weight, 7 parts by weight, 7.5 parts by weight, 8 parts by weight, 8.5 parts by weight, 9 parts by weight, or 9.5 parts by weight, and specific point values therebetween are limited in space and for the sake of brevity, and the invention is not exhaustive and does not include specific point values included in the range.
The emollient is 10 to 55 parts by weight, such as 12 parts by weight, 15 parts by weight, 18 parts by weight, 20 parts by weight, 22 parts by weight, 25 parts by weight, 28 parts by weight, 30 parts by weight, 32 parts by weight, 35 parts by weight, 38 parts by weight, 40 parts by weight, 42 parts by weight, 45 parts by weight, 48 parts by weight, 50 parts by weight, 52 parts by weight, or 54 parts by weight, and specific points therebetween are not intended to limit the disclosure and for brevity, and the invention is not intended to be exhaustive of the specific points included in the range.
The plasticizer is 8 to 15 parts by weight, such as 8.5 parts by weight, 9 parts by weight, 9.5 parts by weight, 10 parts by weight, 10.5 parts by weight, 11 parts by weight, 11.5 parts by weight, 12 parts by weight, 12.5 parts by weight, 13 parts by weight, 13.5 parts by weight, 14 parts by weight or 14.5 parts by weight, and specific points therebetween are not limited to space and for the sake of brevity, and the invention is not exhaustive of the specific points included in the range.
The emulsifier is 0.1 to 4 parts by weight, such as 0.3 part by weight, 0.5 part by weight, 0.8 part by weight, 1 part by weight, 1.2 parts by weight, 1.5 parts by weight, 1.8 parts by weight, 2 parts by weight, 2.3 parts by weight, 2.5 parts by weight, 2.8 parts by weight, 3 parts by weight, 3.2 parts by weight, 3.5 parts by weight, or 3.8 parts by weight, and specific points therebetween are limited to space and for brevity, and the invention is not exhaustive of the specific points included in the range.
Preferably, the skin conditioner comprises niacinamide and bisabolol in an amount of 10 to 20% by weight, for example 11%, 12%, 13%, 14%, 15%, 16%, 17%, 18% or 19%, and the specific values therebetween are not exhaustive for the sake of brevity and conciseness.
Preferably, the skin conditioner has a xylitol content of 15-20% by mass, for example 15.5%, 16%, 16.5%, 17%, 17.5%, 18%, 18.5%, 19% or 19.5%, and the specific values therebetween are not exhaustive, and for brevity and clarity, the invention is not intended to be limited to the specific values included in the range.
Preferably, the skin conditioner has a β -glucan content of 20-50% by mass, such as 21%, 23%, 25%, 27%, 29%, 30%, 31%, 33%, 35%, 37%, 39%, 40%, 41%, 43%, 45%, 47%, or 49%, and specific values therebetween, for brevity and clarity, the invention is not intended to be exhaustive of the specific values included in the ranges.
Preferably, the skin conditioning agent also comprises PEG/PPG-14/7 dimethyl ether.
Preferably, the PEG/PPG-14/7 dimethyl ether content of the skin conditioner is 10 to 20% by mass, for example 11%, 12%, 13%, 14%, 15%, 16%, 17%, 18% or 19%, and the specific values therebetween, which are not exhaustive and are included for the sake of brevity.
As a preferable technical scheme, the skin conditioner also comprises 10-20% of PEG/PPG-14/7 dimethyl ether, and the PEG/PPG-14/7 dimethyl ether has good moisturizing effect and permeability and can effectively promote the skin to absorb a plurality of active ingredients in the moisturizing bar transdermally.
Preferably, the skin conditioner comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 10-20% of nicotinamide, 10-20% of bisabolol, 15-20% of xylitol, 20-50% of beta-glucan and 10-20% of PEG/PPG-14/7 dimethyl ether.
Preferably, the humectant comprises any one of hexylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerin, sodium hyaluronate, ethylhexylglycerin, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, or pentylene glycol, or a combination of at least two thereof.
Preferably, the humectant comprises a combination of butylene glycol, glycerin, sodium hyaluronate, and ethylhexylglycerin.
Preferably, the mass percentage of the butylene glycol in the humectant is 40-80%, for example, 42%, 45%, 48%, 50%, 52%, 55%, 58%, 60%, 62%, 65%, 68%, 70%, 72%, 75% or 78%, and specific values therebetween, which are not exhaustive and included in the range for brevity.
In the invention, the butanediol comprises all isomers thereof, namely comprises any one or a combination of at least two of 1, 4-butanediol, 1, 3-butanediol, 1, 2-butanediol or 2, 3-butanediol; the butanediol has excellent moisturizing effect and mild and fresh texture, can be used as a solvent to increase the solubility of active ingredients such as bisabolol and the like, and plays a role in solubilizing and maintaining the stability of a system.
Preferably, the emollient comprises any one or a combination of at least two of polydimethylsiloxane, neopentylglycol diheptanoate, octyl methicone, PEG-10 polydimethylsiloxane, phenyl trimethicone, caprylic capric triglyceride, or triisocaprylic triglyceride.
Preferably, the emulsifier comprises any one or a combination of at least two of lauryl PEG-9 dimethiconoethyl dimethicone, dimethicone PEG-10/15 crosspolymer, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, myristyl myristate or ceteareth-12.
Preferably, the shaping agent comprises a waxy and/or solid oil.
Preferably, the solid oil comprises any one of or a combination of at least two of shea butter, coconut oil or cetostearyl alcohol.
Preferably, the wax includes any one of microcrystalline wax, beeswax, polyethylene wax, carnauba wax, or ozokerite wax, or a combination of at least two thereof.
Preferably, the water supplement bar further comprises 0.05 to 2 parts by weight of magnesium sulfate, such as 0.07 part by weight, 0.09 part by weight, 0.1 part by weight, 0.3 part by weight, 0.5 part by weight, 0.7 part by weight, 0.9 part by weight, 1 part by weight, 1.1 part by weight, 1.3 part by weight, 1.5 parts by weight, 1.7 parts by weight, or 1.9 parts by weight, and specific values therebetween are limited in space and for brevity, and the invention is not exhaustive of the specific values included in the range.
According to the preferable technical scheme, the water replenishing rod further comprises 0.05-2 parts by weight of magnesium sulfate which is used as a mineral salt, can adjust the viscosity and the charge balance of a water-in-oil system, and has certain effects of relieving and moisturizing.
Preferably, the water-replenishing bar further comprises any one of an antioxidant, a preservative, a chelating agent, a solvent or a fragrance, or a combination of at least two thereof.
Preferably, the antioxidant comprises tocopherol acetate.
Preferably, the preservative comprises phenoxyethanol.
Preferably, the chelating agent comprises disodium EDTA.
Preferably, the solvent comprises water and/or ethanol.
Preferably, the water replenishing rod comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.5-8 parts of skin conditioner, 2-10 parts of humectant, 20-55 parts of emollient, 10-15 parts of plasticizer, 0.5-4 parts of emulsifier and 0.1-1 part of magnesium sulfate.
Wherein the skin conditioning agent comprises a combination of niacinamide, bisabolol, xylitol, beta-glucan, and PEG/PPG-14/7 dimethyl ether.
In another aspect, the present invention provides a method for preparing a water supplement rod as described above, comprising the steps of:
(1) mixing emulsifier and 30-80% (such as 32%, 35%, 38%, 40%, 42%, 45%, 48%, 50%, 52%, 55%, 58%, 60%, 62%, 65%, 68%, 70%, 72%, 75% or 78%) of emollient, dispersing uniformly, and homogenizing to obtain phase A; mixing the humectant, the nicotinamide, the xylitol and the beta-glucan with water, and uniformly dispersing to obtain a phase B; mixing the plasticizer with the rest amount of the emollient, and dispersing uniformly to obtain phase C;
(2) mixing the phase B obtained in the step (1) with the phase A, emulsifying and homogenizing, adding bisabolol into the mixture, and uniformly dispersing to obtain an emulsion;
(3) and (3) adding the phase C obtained in the step (1) into the emulsion obtained in the step (2), and uniformly dispersing to obtain the water replenishing rod.
In the preparation method provided by the invention, firstly, an emulsifier and part of an emollient (the formula amount is 30-80%) are uniformly dispersed and then homogenized to obtain a phase A (namely an oil phase), a water-soluble component is mixed and dispersed to obtain a phase B (namely a water phase), and a plasticizer and the rest of the emollient are mixed to form a phase C (namely a wax phase); then mixing the phase B and the phase A, emulsifying and homogenizing, adding other active ingredients and additives, and uniformly mixing and dispersing to obtain an emulsion; and finally, adding the phase C into the emulsion, and uniformly dispersing to obtain the water replenishing rod. The preparation method effectively avoids the product from being easily solidified during emulsification and homogenization and reduces the generation of bubbles through the design of the feeding sequence and the process; because the emulsification is more sufficient, the water replenishing rod obtained by the invention has better stability and more beautiful appearance.
Preferably, the preparation temperature of the phase a in the step (1) is 80 to 85 ℃, for example, 80.5 ℃, 81 ℃, 81.5 ℃, 82 ℃, 82.5 ℃, 83 ℃, 83.5 ℃, 84 ℃ or 84.5 ℃, and the specific values therebetween are limited by space and for the sake of brevity, and the invention is not exhaustive list of the specific values included in the range.
Preferably, the homogenizing speed in step (1) is 2000-3000 rpm, such as 2100rpm, 2200rpm, 2300rpm, 2400rpm, 2500rpm, 2600rpm, 2700rpm, 2800rpm or 2900rpm, and specific values therebetween, limited to space and for the sake of brevity, the present invention is not exhaustive of the specific values included in the ranges.
Preferably, the homogenizing time in step (1) is 3-5 min, such as 3.5min, 4min, 4.5min or 5 min.
Preferably, the mixing method in step (2) is as follows: slowly adding the phase B into the phase A, and stirring and dispersing after the addition is finished.
Preferably, the stirring speed is 800-1200 rpm, such as 850rpm, 900rpm, 950rpm, 1000rpm, 1050rpm, 1100rpm or 1150rpm, and the specific values therebetween are limited for brevity and conciseness, and the invention is not exhaustive of the specific values included in the ranges.
Preferably, the stirring time is 10-15 min, such as 10.5min, 11min, 11.5min, 12min, 12.5min, 13min, 13.5min, 14min or 14.5min, and the specific values therebetween are limited by space and for the sake of brevity, the invention is not exhaustive.
Preferably, the homogenizing speed in step (2) is 2500-3000 rpm, such as 2550rpm, 2600rpm, 2650rpm, 2700rpm, 2750rpm, 2800rpm, 2850rpm, 2900rpm or 2950rpm, and specific values therebetween, which are limited in space and for the sake of brevity, the present invention is not exhaustive.
Preferably, the homogenizing time in step (2) is 10-15 min, such as 10.5min, 11min, 11.5min, 12min, 12.5min, 13min, 13.5min, 14min or 14.5min, and the specific values therebetween are limited by the space and for the sake of brevity, and the invention is not exhaustive.
Preferably, the preparation method specifically comprises the following steps:
(1) mixing an emulsifier and an emollient with the formula amount of 30-80%, uniformly dispersing at 80-85 ℃, homogenizing at 2000-3000 rpm for 3-5 min, and carrying out heat preservation and defoaming to obtain a phase A; mixing a humectant, nicotinamide, xylitol, beta-glucan, water, an optional chelating agent and magnesium sulfate, and uniformly dispersing at 80-85 ℃ to obtain a phase B; mixing the plasticizer with the rest of the emollient, uniformly dispersing at 80-88 ℃, and preserving heat to obtain a phase C;
(2) stirring the phase A obtained in the step (1) at a speed of 200-500 rpm, slowly adding the phase B into the phase A, stirring at 800-1200 rpm for 10-15 min after the addition is finished, homogenizing at 2500-3000 rpm for 10-15 min, and preserving heat and defoaming; then adding bisabolol and optional PEG/PPG-14/7 dimethyl ether, antioxidant and antiseptic, and dispersing uniformly to obtain emulsion;
(3) and (3) adding the phase C obtained in the step (1) into the emulsion obtained in the step (2), and stirring and dispersing uniformly to obtain the water replenishing rod.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following beneficial effects:
the skin conditioner, the humectant, the emollient, the plasticizer and the emulsifier in the water replenishing rod provided by the invention are mutually matched and synergically synergistic to obtain the water replenishing rod of the solid water-in-oil emulsion, and the water replenishing rod can be used for specifically restoring the skin with the problems of dryness, sensitivity or darkness and the like. The skin conditioner adopts the combination of nicotinamide, bisabolol, xylitol and beta-glucan, can improve the skin state from multiple dimensions of water replenishing and locking, skin color brightening, calming and relieving, after-sun repair, collagen and hyaluronic acid synthesis promotion and the like, repair damaged stratum corneum lipid barriers and improve the skin resistance. The moisturizing stick provided by the invention is moist and refreshing, is suitable for moisturizing skin and lips, and the change value of the percutaneous water loss rate (TEWL) after being smeared for 4 hours reaches 2.0-3.0 g/h.m2The skin moisturizing cream can meet multiple application scenes of daily maintenance, pre-makeup moisturizing, makeup supplementing, after-sun repairing and the like, is convenient to use, and meets the requirement of people on supplementing skin moisture at any time and any place.
Detailed Description
The technical solution of the present invention is further explained by the following embodiments. It should be understood by those skilled in the art that the examples are only for the understanding of the present invention and should not be construed as the specific limitations of the present invention.
Examples 1 to 8
The water replenishing bar comprises the following specific components in parts by weight as shown in Table 1.
TABLE 1
Figure BDA0002674451810000111
Figure BDA0002674451810000121
Wherein the emulsifier is a mixture of lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxane ethyl polydimethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane PEG-10/15 cross-linked polymer and polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymer in a mass ratio of 0.8:1: 2.
The preparation method of the water replenishing rod comprises the following steps:
(1) adding the emulsifier, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, octyl polymethylsiloxane, PEG-10 polydimethylsiloxane and 15 parts by weight of polydimethylsiloxane into an emulsifying pot, mixing, stirring at 82 ℃ to disperse uniformly, homogenizing at 2500rpm for 5min, preserving heat and defoaming for 30min to obtain phase A;
adding a chelating agent, butanediol, glycerol, magnesium sulfate, sodium hyaluronate, xylitol, beta-glucan, nicotinamide and water into a water phase pot, and uniformly stirring and dispersing at 82 ℃ to obtain a phase B;
uniformly dispersing a plasticizer, phenyl trimethicone, triisocaprylic glyceride and the rest formula amount of polydimethylsiloxane in another reaction device at 85 ℃ to obtain a C phase, and preserving heat for later use;
(2) slowly stirring the phase A obtained in the step (1) at the speed of 400rpm, keeping vacuum, slowly adding part of the phase B (about 2%) into the phase A, and mixing and pre-emulsifying for 2 min; slowly adding the rest phase B while stirring, wherein no water can be accumulated on the material surface in the adding process, stirring at 1000rpm for 15min after the adding is finished, homogenizing at 2800rpm for 10min, and stirring at low speed at 85 ℃ for defoaming; then sequentially adding bisabolol, ethylhexyl glycerol, PEG/PPG-14/7 dimethyl ether, antioxidant, antiseptic and ethanol, and dispersing uniformly to obtain emulsion;
(3) and (3) adding the phase C obtained in the step (1) into the emulsion obtained in the step (2), and stirring and dispersing uniformly to obtain the water replenishing rod.
Comparative example 1
A moisturizing bar that differs from example 1 only in that it does not contain a skin conditioner; the other components and the preparation method are the same as those of example 1.
Comparative example 2
A moisturizing bar that differs from example 1 only in that, in the absence of a skin conditioner, the total amount of moisturizers was 10 parts by weight (including 6.6 parts by weight butylene glycol, 2 parts by weight glycerin, 1 part by weight sodium hyaluronate, and 0.4 parts by weight ethylhexyl glycerin); the other components and the preparation method are the same as those of example 1.
Comparative example 3
A moisturizing bar that differs from example 1 only in that it does not contain β -glucan; the other components and the preparation method are the same as those of example 1.
Comparative example 4
A moisturizing bar that differs from example 1 only in that it does not contain niacinamide; the other components and the preparation method are the same as those of example 1.
Comparative example 5
A moisturizing bar which differs from example 1 only in that it does not contain bisabolol; the other components and the preparation method are the same as those of example 1.
Comparative example 6
A moisturizing bar differing from example 1 only in that beta-glucan was not contained, and niacinamide and bisabolol were contained in an amount of 2 parts by weight; the other components and the preparation method are the same as those of example 1.
The following test examples were conducted for evaluation tests on the water replenishing bars provided in examples 1 to 8 and comparative examples 1 to 6:
test example 1
The test example is a safety evaluation test of the water replenishing rod, and the method comprises the following steps:
(1) the 3D skin irritation test refers to the OECD 439 European Union standard test method, and comprises the following specific steps:
experimental groups: the water-replenishing bars provided in examples 1 to 8 (10 mg of paste was mixed with 5. mu.L of distilled water to form a dispersion) were locally contacted by about 0.38cm2Surface of the skin model (EpiSkin) of (1) for 15 min; the negative control group was 10. mu.L of PBS, and the positive control group was 10. mu.L of 5% SDS (sodium dodecyl sulfate); after 15min of exposure, the skin model was rinsed with PBS, immersed in 2mL of maintenance medium, and incubated at saturated humidity, 37 deg.C, 5% CO2Incubating for 42h under the condition; then immersed in MTT solution (2mL, 0.3mg/mL, solvent as test medium) at saturated humidity, 37 ℃ and 5% CO2Incubating for 3h under the condition; immersing the skin model after the MTT reaction is finished into a centrifuge tube of 500 mu L acidified isopropanol, mixing uniformly, staying overnight at room temperature in a dark place, taking out 200 mu L liquid sample from the centrifuge tube, placing the liquid sample into a 96-pore plate micro colorimetric pool, reading the OD value of each pore at 570nm of an enzyme labeling instrument, and taking the acidified isopropanol solution as a blank control; calculating the average value of the 3 test results, wherein the relative cell activity percentage (%) (OD value of the experimental group/OD value of the negative control); criteria for judging irritation were: the relative cell activity percentage is less than 50 percent, and the cell is judged to be irritant, and the relative cell activity percentage is more than or equal to 50 percent.
(2) Human patch skin irritation test
The specific method comprises the following steps: 240 healthy volunteers aged 18-35 years, half of all male and female, and no allergic history were selected, and the water replenishing rods of examples 1-8 were respectively used for experiments (15 male volunteers and 15 female volunteers were randomly selected for each group of products for experiments). Cleaning the curved side of the forearm of a volunteer, sticking the plaque test device with each group of samples on the selected position of the curved side of the forearm by using a non-irritating adhesive tape, and slightly pressing the test device with fingers after sticking the test device on the skin for 24 hours; order the volunteer to keep the spot patch part dry within 24h, avoid violent exercise, scratching spot test part, long-time sunlight irradiation and the like. Removing the tested spot tester and marking after 24h, and observing skin reaction under sufficient light after the indentation disappears after 30 min; if the result is negative, observing once more after 24h and 48h of the patch test respectively; the skin reaction evaluation criteria for the closed patch test are shown in table 2.
TABLE 2
Figure BDA0002674451810000151
The number of people with grade 1 adverse skin reaction is more than 5 in 30 subjects, or the number of people with grade 2 adverse skin reaction is more than 2, or any grade 1 adverse skin reaction or grade 3 adverse skin reaction is judged to have adverse skin reaction to human body.
The safety test of the water supplement bars provided in examples 1 to 8 was performed according to the above experimental method in terms of the 3D skin irritation and the amount of skin irritation of the human patch, and the results are shown in table 3.
TABLE 3
Figure BDA0002674451810000152
Figure BDA0002674451810000161
According to the data in table 3, the water replenishing rod provided by the embodiments 1-8 of the invention is mild and non-irritant to a 3D skin model, and shows good safety in a skin irritation test of a patch on a human body, so that the water replenishing rod provided by the invention has no adverse reaction to the human body and is high in safety.
Test example 2
The test example is a moisture retention evaluation test of the water replenishing rod, and the specific steps are as follows:
(1) the environmental temperature is controlled at 25 ℃, and the testee enters a room 30min in advance after cleaning the arms and is in a relaxed state;
(2) the number of the tested volunteers is 140, and the male volunteers and the female volunteers are half in each case; 2X 2cm on the arm of the test volunteer2Smearing 50mg of samples to be detected in the area; three areas were divided on the arm of each volunteer tested: one block was used as blank control without any product applied; one piece of the water replenishing rod is smeared; and applying vaseline on the blocks.
(3) The test intervals are 0min, 10min, 60min and 240 min; the skin moisture transdermal Loss rate (Trans-Epidermal Water Loss, TEWL) and stratum corneum moisture content of the applied area of the test volunteers were tested at the above time points and the test results were counted.
The moisturizing performance, TEWL (g/h.m), of the moisturizing bars provided in examples 1-8 and comparative examples 1-6 was tested in sequence according to the method2) And moisture value (%) as shown in Table 4.
TABLE 4
Figure BDA0002674451810000171
As is clear from the data in Table 4, the water supplement sticks provided in examples 1 to 8 of the present invention, when applied, showed a reduction in the percutaneous water loss (TEWL) of 2.0 to 3.0g/h m after 4 hours of absorption as compared with vaseline2The water replenishing rod can obviously improve the skin barrier capability and enhance the skin water locking capability; the percutaneous water loss rate of the water replenishing rod applied in the comparative examples 1-6 is not obviously reduced and is not more than 1.0 g/h.m2
The moisturizing bar provided by the invention realizes excellent moisturizing effect through mutual matching of the skin conditioner, the humectant, the emollient, the plasticizer and the emulsifier, and especially has important contribution to moisturizing performance due to synergistic interaction of the skin conditioner and the humectant with specific components. If the moisturizing bar does not contain a skin conditioner, even if the amount of the moisturizer is doubled (comparative examples 1 and 2), the desired moisturizing effect cannot be achieved. In addition, the skin conditioner is limited to comprise a combination of nicotinamide, bisabolol, xylitol and beta-glucan, the active ingredients are matched with each other, the skin state can be improved from multiple dimensions of water replenishing and locking, calming and relieving, after-sun repair, collagen and hyaluronic acid synthesis promotion and the like, and the moisture retention performance of the water replenishing bar can be influenced by the absence of any component (comparative examples 3-6).
Test example 3
The test example is an anti-allergic and relieving test experiment of a water replenishing rod, in particular to a histamine test experiment, and comprises the following steps:
(1) the test volunteers, 20 in total, cleaned the arms and naturally dried, wherein the skin condition of the test volunteers is healthy without allergy history and other skin abnormalities;
(2) at arm 2X 2cm2The area was coated with 0.05mL of 5mg/mL histamine solution, after complete absorption of the histamine solution, with petrolatum and the moisturizing stick provided in example 1, and the skin condition was recorded at different times.
Wherein, the Chinese meaning of the used symbols and the corresponding skin representation are as follows:
-: negative, no reaction;
+ -: suspicious, only mild erythema;
+: weakly positive, erythema, infiltration, with a few papules;
++: positive, erythema, infiltration, papules, blisters;
+++: strong positive, erythema, obvious infiltration and bullous skin.
The itch score and corresponding perception were as follows:
0-1: no itching occurs;
1-2: slight itching;
2-3: moderate itching;
3-4 severe itching;
4-5: very scratchy.
The histamine test data were pooled and averaged, with the statistics shown in table 5 below:
TABLE 5
Figure BDA0002674451810000191
As can be seen from the data in table 5, the moisturizing bar provided in example 1 of the present invention has the effects of relieving skin itch, red rash, resisting allergy, and soothing skin; compared with the conventional vaseline, the ointment can better relieve skin itch and red rash, has quick response, effectively reduces the sensitivity of the skin, and enhances the capability of the skin to resist external stimulation.
According to the formula of the embodiment and the experimental results of the test examples 1 to 3, the skin conditioner, the humectant, the emollient, the plasticizer and the emulsifier are matched, so that the obtained moisturizing bar has the effects of moisturizing, soothing and moistening, and can effectively repair the skin protective barrier, improve the anti-irritation performance of the skin and reduce the sensitivity on the premise of keeping the skin moisturizing degree and the moistening degree.
The applicant states that the present invention is illustrated by the above embodiments and the method for manufacturing the water supplement bar of the present invention, but the present invention is not limited to the above embodiments, that is, the present invention is not meant to be implemented by relying on the above embodiments. It should be understood by those skilled in the art that any modification of the present invention, equivalent substitutions of the raw materials of the product of the present invention, addition of auxiliary components, selection of specific modes, etc., are within the scope and disclosure of the present invention.

Claims (10)

1. The water replenishing rod is characterized by comprising the following components in parts by weight: 0.01-10 parts of skin conditioner, 0.5-10 parts of humectant, 10-55 parts of emollient, 8-15 parts of plasticizer and 0.1-4 parts of emulsifier; the skin conditioning agent comprises a combination of niacinamide, bisabolol, xylitol, and beta-glucan.
2. The water supplementing rod according to claim 1, wherein the skin conditioner contains 10-20% of niacinamide and bisabolol by weight percentage;
preferably, the mass percentage of xylitol in the skin conditioner is 15-20%;
preferably, the mass percentage of the beta-glucan in the skin conditioner is 20-50%;
preferably, the skin conditioning agent also comprises PEG/PPG-14/7 dimethyl ether;
preferably, the weight percentage content of PEG/PPG-14/7 dimethyl ether in the skin conditioner is 10-20%;
preferably, the skin conditioner comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 10-20% of nicotinamide, 10-20% of bisabolol, 15-20% of xylitol, 20-50% of beta-glucan and 10-20% of PEG/PPG-14/7 dimethyl ether.
3. The moisturizing stick of claim 1 or 2, wherein the moisturizer comprises any one or a combination of at least two of hexylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerin, sodium hyaluronate, ethylhexylglycerin, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, or pentylene glycol;
preferably, the moisturizer comprises a combination of butylene glycol, glycerin, sodium hyaluronate, and ethylhexylglycerin;
preferably, the mass percentage of the butanediol in the humectant is 40-80%.
4. A water wand according to any one of claims 1 to 3 wherein the emollient comprises any one or combination of at least two of polydimethylsiloxane, neopentylglycol diheptanoate, octyl methicone, PEG-10 polydimethylsiloxane, phenyl trimethicone, caprylic capric triglyceride or triisocaprylic triglyceride;
preferably, the emulsifier comprises any one or a combination of at least two of lauryl PEG-9 dimethiconoethyl dimethicone, dimethicone PEG-10/15 crosspolymer, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, myristyl myristate or ceteareth-12.
5. A water compensating bar as claimed in any of claims 1 to 4, wherein the plasticiser comprises a waxy and/or solid grease;
preferably, the solid oil comprises any one or a combination of at least two of shea butter, coconut oil or cetostearyl alcohol;
preferably, the wax includes any one of microcrystalline wax, beeswax, polyethylene wax, carnauba wax, or ozokerite wax, or a combination of at least two thereof.
6. The water replenishing bar according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the water replenishing bar further comprises 0.05 to 2 parts by weight of magnesium sulfate;
preferably, the water replenishing bar further comprises any one or a combination of at least two of an antioxidant, a preservative, a chelating agent, a solvent or a fragrance;
preferably, the antioxidant comprises tocopherol acetate;
preferably, the preservative comprises phenoxyethanol;
preferably, the chelating agent comprises disodium EDTA;
preferably, the solvent comprises water and/or ethanol.
7. The water replenishing rod according to any one of claims 1 to 6, which comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.5-8 parts of skin conditioner, 2-10 parts of humectant, 20-55 parts of emollient, 10-15 parts of plasticizer, 0.5-4 parts of emulsifier and 0.1-1 part of magnesium sulfate;
wherein the skin conditioning agent comprises a combination of niacinamide, bisabolol, xylitol, beta-glucan, and PEG/PPG-14/7 dimethyl ether.
8. A method for preparing a water-replenishing bar according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized by comprising the steps of:
(1) mixing an emulsifier with an emollient accounting for 30-80% of the formula amount, uniformly dispersing, and homogenizing to obtain a phase A; mixing the humectant, the nicotinamide, the xylitol and the beta-glucan with water, and uniformly dispersing to obtain a phase B; mixing the plasticizer with the rest amount of the emollient, and dispersing uniformly to obtain phase C;
(2) mixing the phase B obtained in the step (1) with the phase A, emulsifying and homogenizing, adding bisabolol into the mixture, and uniformly dispersing to obtain an emulsion;
(3) and (3) adding the phase C obtained in the step (1) into the emulsion obtained in the step (2), and uniformly dispersing to obtain the water replenishing rod.
9. The preparation method according to claim 8, wherein the phase A in the step (1) is prepared at a temperature of 80-85 ℃;
preferably, the homogenizing speed of the step (1) is 2000-3000 rpm;
preferably, the homogenizing time in the step (1) is 3-5 min;
preferably, the mixing method in step (2) is as follows: slowly adding the phase B into the phase A, and stirring and dispersing after the addition is finished;
preferably, the stirring speed is 800-1200 rpm;
preferably, the stirring time is 10-15 min;
preferably, the homogenizing speed of the step (2) is 2500-3000 rpm;
preferably, the homogenizing time in the step (2) is 10-15 min.
10. The method according to claim 8 or 9, comprising in particular the steps of:
(1) mixing an emulsifier and an emollient with the formula amount of 30-80%, uniformly dispersing at 80-85 ℃, homogenizing at 2000-3000 rpm for 3-5 min, and carrying out heat preservation and defoaming to obtain a phase A; mixing a humectant, nicotinamide, xylitol, beta-glucan, water, an optional chelating agent and magnesium sulfate, and uniformly dispersing at 80-85 ℃ to obtain a phase B; mixing the plasticizer with the rest of the emollient, uniformly dispersing at 80-88 ℃, and preserving heat to obtain a phase C;
(2) stirring the phase A obtained in the step (1) at a speed of 200-500 rpm, slowly adding the phase B into the phase A, stirring at 800-1200 rpm for 10-15 min after the addition is finished, homogenizing at 2500-3000 rpm for 10-15 min, and preserving heat and defoaming; then adding bisabolol and optional PEG/PPG-14/7 dimethyl ether, antioxidant and antiseptic, and dispersing uniformly to obtain emulsion;
(3) and (3) adding the phase C obtained in the step (1) into the emulsion obtained in the step (2), and stirring and dispersing uniformly to obtain the water replenishing rod.
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