CN112716823A - High-moisture-retention moisture gel cream and preparation method thereof - Google Patents

High-moisture-retention moisture gel cream and preparation method thereof Download PDF

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CN112716823A
CN112716823A CN202110248752.XA CN202110248752A CN112716823A CN 112716823 A CN112716823 A CN 112716823A CN 202110248752 A CN202110248752 A CN 202110248752A CN 112716823 A CN112716823 A CN 112716823A
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gel cream
humectant
phase
skin
water
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闫惠丽
丁艳云
邢依萌
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Coma Cosmetics Beijing Co ltd
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Coma Cosmetics Beijing Co ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/55Phosphorus compounds
    • A61K8/553Phospholipids, e.g. lecithin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/342Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/345Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
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    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/39Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
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    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
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    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/58Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
    • A61K8/585Organosilicon compounds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/602Glycosides, e.g. rutin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/63Steroids; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/68Sphingolipids, e.g. ceramides, cerebrosides, gangliosides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9794Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
    • A61K2800/5922At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18

Abstract

The application relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to high-moisturizing moisture gel cream and a preparation method thereof, wherein the high-moisturizing moisture gel cream is prepared from the following components in percentage by weight: hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine, ceramide 3, cholesterol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, caprylic/capric triglyceride, a water phase humectant, an oil phase humectant, an emulsifier, an emulsion stabilizer, an antioxidant, a skin conditioner, a thickener, a water phase preservative, an additive phase preservative, a chelating agent, a buffering agent, an additive phase solvent and purified water; the gel cream has the advantages that the main components of the gel cream have structures similar to skin phospholipids, the gel cream has a high moisturizing effect after being matched with other components, no stimulation is caused to human skin, the safety is good, and high moisturizing performance can be realized in short-term or long-term use.

Description

High-moisture-retention moisture gel cream and preparation method thereof
Technical Field
The application relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to high-moisturizing moisture gel cream and a preparation method thereof.
Background
The skin care products are various in types, and the efficacy and the effect of different skin care products are different. Among the skin care products, products with moisturizing effect are popular among many female consumers. The moisturizing refers to the moisturizing of the skin, when the air temperature is reduced, the stratum corneum of the skin cannot be timely adjusted to generate enough moisturizing factors, the activity of oil glands is reduced, the oil and water on the face are reduced, the skin is tightened, and wrinkles even appear under the eyes and on the nasal wings. By using the skin care product with the moisturizing effect, the skin is moisturized, the water evaporation of the skin is prevented, the microcirculation of the skin can be improved, and the moisture of the skin is enhanced.
At present, products with moisturizing effects mainly comprise moisturizing creams and moisturizing gel creams. Moisturizing creams have greasy feeling while moisturizing, and are not natural and transparent enough. The moisture gels are light, thin and breathable, can retain moisture in skin to achieve moisture retention of the skin, and can solve the problems of skin peeling, fine lines, roughness and the like.
In the related art, natural plant extracts are added or added in the products of the water gel cream type, so as to enhance the moisturizing function, and although the ingredients are natural in source, the ingredients are not ingredients similar to the structure of the skin, so the transdermal absorption degree and the moisturizing effect are uncertain; or adding blocking agent such as oleum Olivarum to prevent water evaporation in skin, but the applied product has large residual feeling, is sticky, and is not natural and transparent.
Disclosure of Invention
In order to solve the problems of poor moisturizing effect and sticky smearing of the moisture gel cream in the related technology, the application provides the high-moisturizing moisture gel cream and the preparation method thereof.
In a first aspect, the application provides a high moisturizing moisture gel cream, which adopts the following technical scheme:
the high-moisturizing moisture gel cream is prepared from the following components in percentage by weight: 0.01-0.5% of hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine, 3 (0.01-0.2)% of ceramide, 0.01-0.2% of cholesterol, 0.01-0.2% of cetyl alcohol, 0.04-0.4% of stearyl alcohol, 0.01-0.5% of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 10.05-18.35% of water-phase humectant, 3-5% of oil-phase humectant, 1.005-2.01% of emulsifier, 0.01-0.1% of emulsion stabilizer, 0.001-0.01% of antioxidant, 0.15-1.5% of skin conditioner, 0.6-1.4% of thickener, 0.8-2.5% of water-phase preservative, 0.05-0.1% of additive phase preservative, 0.01-0.05% of chelating agent, 0.5-0.05% of buffer, 0.5-1.0% of buffer, and 1% of additive, and the balance being water.
By adopting the technical scheme, the hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine is the main active component of the lecithin, the lecithin is an important component of cell membranes and organelle membranes such as mitochondria, endoplasmic reticulum, cell nucleus and the like, and a plurality of characteristics of biological membranes, such as permeability barriers of substances inside and outside the membranes, exchange of substances inside and outside the membranes and the like, are related to the lecithin; the skin activity can be improved by adding hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine. The ceramide 3 is the ceramide with the highest content in a human body, and has good moisturizing and hydrating effects; by adding the ceramide 3, the ceramide content of the skin cuticle can be improved, the thickness of the skin cuticle can be increased, and the water holding capacity of the skin can be improved. Caprylic/capric triglyceride has good spreadability. The cholesterol, the cetyl alcohol and the stearyl alcohol are matched, so that a stable emulsion can be formed, and the property is mild; the skin moisturizing cream is matched with caprylic/capric triglyceride, and can be well spread on the surface of skin to play the functions of moisturizing and moisturizing.
In the application, a structure similar to skin phospholipid is formed by the mutual matching of hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine, ceramide 3, cholesterol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and caprylic/capric triglyceride, and gel cream is obtained by matching with other additives in the application and is equivalent to a protective film forming a 'second layer of skin' after being smeared on the skin; the components of the skin care product are similar to the phospholipid structure of the skin, so that the skin care product has strong skin affinity, can be tightly attached to the skin, has good permeability, and has the effects of refreshing, ventilating, moisturizing and moisturizing.
Preferably, the water-phase humectant comprises fatty alcohol, glycoside, alkaloid, biological polysaccharide, polyquaternium-51 and hydrogenated starch hydrolysate.
Preferably, the fatty alcohol moisturizer comprises dipropylene glycol, glycerol and methyl propylene glycol, and the weight ratio is (8-12): (0.5-2.0): (0.1-1).
By adopting the technical scheme, the dipropylene glycol is a high-purity product, is colorless and tasteless, and has water-soluble and hygroscopic liquid. The component is an ideal solvent, has low irritation to skin and low toxicity, and can be used as solvent and humectant in cosmetics. The glycerin has good moisture absorption and moisture retention effects, can improve the solubility of other humectants and other components while retaining moisture, and can improve the use feeling of the gel cream by matching with the methyl propylene glycol.
Preferably, the alkaloid humectant is betaine, and the weight percentage of the alkaloid humectant is (1-3)%; the glycoside humectant is raffinose, and the weight percentage of the glycoside humectant is (0.1-0.3)%; the biological polysaccharide humectant is biological carbohydrate gum-1, and the weight percentage content is (0.001-0.01)%.
By adopting the technical scheme, the betaine is named betaine, glycine trimethylamine inner salt and glycine betaine, and is easy to interact with water to generate moisturizing capability; the betaine has no sticky feeling in use, and can make skin smoother after use; it can be used in combination with other components in the formula to relieve skin allergy, and is an ideal sedative humectant. Raffinose is also called raffinose, beta-D-fructofuranosyl-O-alpha-D-galactopyranosyl- (1 → 6) -alpha-D-glucopyranoside, has the main effects of moisturizing and softening in cosmetics and skin care products, and is suitable for non-pigmented skin, wrinkled skin, dry skin, oily skin, tolerant skin, sensitive skin, pigmented skin and firmed skin. The bioglycan gum-1, namely fucoidan and fucoidan sulfate, contains a plurality of sulfate groups in molecules, has polyanion compound property, can stabilize an emulsion system, has strong hydration capability, good moisture retention and wettability and good adhesion to skin.
Preferably, the oil-phase humectant comprises cyclohexasiloxane and isononyl isononanoate, and the weight percentage of the cyclohexasiloxane and the isononyl isononanoate is (2-3)%, and (1-2)%, respectively.
By adopting the technical scheme, the cyclohexasiloxane can adsorb water molecules and has a super-strong moisturizing effect; and the jelly is fresh and has no greasy feeling, and the use feeling of the jelly cream can be further improved. Isononyl isononanoate has the effects of easy smearing, dryness and extreme softness, and has extremely high solubility to cyclohexasiloxane, so that the isononyl isononanoate can play a stabilizing role in the formula of the application.
Preferably, the skin conditioner comprises an extract of cynanchum atratum and an extract of dioscorea japonica root in a weight ratio of (0.03-1) - (0.1-0.5).
By adopting the technical scheme, the cynanchum atratum extract has the main effects of resisting inflammation, whitening skin, removing freckles and inhibiting melanin generation in cosmetics and skin care products. The dioscorea japonica root extract has the main effects of maintaining skin elasticity and endowing skin with firming and moistening feeling in cosmetics and skin care products.
Preferably, the antioxidant comprises tocopherol, and the weight percentage of the tocopherol is (0.001-0.01%).
By adopting the technical scheme, the tocopherol, namely the vitamin E, DL-alpha-tocopherol, has the main effects of resisting oxidation and preserving moisture in cosmetics and skin care products, can resist lipid peroxidation and avoid cell aging.
Preferably, the thickener comprises a (ester) acrylate/C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosspolymer and carbomer.
By adopting the technical scheme, the acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer mainly has the functions of an emulsion stabilizer and a thickening agent in cosmetics and skin care products, has no irritation and no acne, and can be suitable for special skin care products for pregnant women. Carbomer is named carbomer, carbopol and carbopol resin, has good transparency and good compatibility with pH, and can be used in both acidic neutrality and alkaline.
Preferably, the emulsifier comprises lecithin and polyglycerol-10 laurate, and the weight ratio of the lecithin to the polyglycerol-10 laurate is (0.005-0.01): (1-2).
By adopting the technical scheme, the lecithin has biological activity, can be used as an emulsifier, and can also play an active stimulation role on the skin to enable the skin to be rich in elasticity. The polyglycerol-10 laurate can be used as an emulsifier and a skin conditioner and has the function of conditioning the skin.
In a second aspect, the application provides a preparation method of the high-moisturizing moisture gel cream, which adopts the following technical scheme:
a method for preparing the high moisturizing moisture gel cream according to any one of claims 1 to 9, which is prepared by the following steps: preparation of the aqueous phase: mixing water phase humectant, emulsifier, emulsion stabilizer, water phase antiseptic, chelating agent and purified water, stirring to dissolve, adding thickener to disperse, heating to 75-80 deg.C under stirring, and dispersing uniformly; cooling to 45 ℃ while stirring to obtain a water phase material for later use;
preparation of oil phase: mixing oil phase humectant, hydrogenated phosphatidyl choline, ceramide 3, cholesterol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and caprylic/capric triglyceride, properly heating, stirring and dispersing uniformly to obtain oil phase;
adding the oil phase into the water phase for emulsification, adding an antioxidant, a skin conditioner, an additive phase preservative, a buffering agent and an additive phase solvent, and uniformly stirring; cooling to be defoamed while stirring to obtain the high-moisture-retention gel cream.
By adopting the technical scheme, the fully emulsified water phase is obtained by mixing the water phase humectant with the emulsifier and other auxiliary agents, dispersing and emulsifying; uniformly dispersing the lipid-like component and the oil phase humectant to obtain a fully dissolved and dispersed oil phase; and putting the oil phase into the water phase, and adding an additive to prepare the gel cream with high moisture retention property.
In summary, the present application has the following beneficial effects:
1. after the high-moisturizing moisture gel cream is applied to a subject, test results of patch tests are all negative within 72h, no adverse reaction occurs, the tested product is judged to have no skin adverse reaction to a human body, and the safety reaches the standard;
2. according to sensitivity tests, the high-moisturizing moisture gel cream has no stimulation to human skin, has no sensitive reaction after being used, and is good in safety;
3. according to the moisture retention test, after the high-moisture-retention moisture gel cream disclosed by the application is used, the moisture content on the surface of the skin can be kept not to be reduced within 6 hours, the moisture content in 6 hours is increased compared with the moisture content before use, the increase rate is more than 30%, and can be as high as about 95% at most, and the water-supplementing and moisture-retention effects are obvious;
4. the moisture content of the skin of the same volunteer within 1-6 h is seen, and the moisture content of the skin is increased at different time points, so that the high-moisturizing moisture gel cream can achieve the moisturizing effect after being used for a short time or a long time.
Detailed Description
The present application will be described in further detail with reference to specific examples.
The following raw materials in the present application are all from commercially available products, and the specific sources are as follows: the hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine is selected from LTEC PHARMA CHEM, model PHOSPHOLIPON 90H; ceramide 3 is selected from DOOSAN BIOTECH; CHOLESTEROL is selected from SOLVAY, model cholseterol NF; cetyl alcohol is selected from BASF, model LANETTE 1698-100 MY PS; stearyl alcohol is selected from BASF, model LANETTE C-18; caprylic/capric triglycerides selected from EVONIK, type TEGOSOFT CT; lecithin, rhizoma Dioscoreae Zingiberensis extract, biological sugar gum-1, glycosyl trehalose, raffinose, polyquaternium-51, and hydrogenated starch hydrolysate selected from CALMING UP ULV composite raw material; betaine is selected from ASAHI/FINNFEEDS, model GENENCARE OSMS BA; the Cynanchum atratum extract is selected from radix, model DERMA-CLERA; the tocopherol is selected from SCHULKE & MAYR GMBH, model SENSIVA SC 50; acrylic/C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosspolymer selected from LUBRIZOL, model TR-1; carbomer is selected from LUBRIZOL, type 980; the essence is selected from S & S FRAGRANCE.
Herein, the aqueous phase humectant includes: fatty alcohols, glycosides, alkaloids, biological polysaccharides, polyquaternium-51 and hydrogenated starch hydrolysates.
The fatty alcohol humectant comprises dipropylene glycol, glycerol and methyl propylene glycol.
The glycoside humectant is raffinose.
The alkaloid humectant is betaine.
The glycoside humectant is raffinose.
The biological polysaccharide humectant is biological carbohydrate gum-1.
The oil phase humectant comprises cyclohexasiloxane and isononyl isononanoate.
The emulsifier comprises lecithin and polyglycerol-10 laurate.
The emulsion stabilizer is glycosyl trehalose, and the content is (0.01-0.1) wt%.
The antioxidant comprises tocopherol.
The skin conditioner comprises radix Cynanchi Atrati extract and rhizoma Dioscoreae Zingiberensis extract.
The thickener comprises acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer (0.3-0.7) wt% and carbomer (0.3-0.7) wt%.
The water phase antiseptic comprises 1, 2-hexanediol (0.5-2) wt% and p-hydroxyacetophenone (0.3-0.5) wt%. The 1, 2-hexanediol belongs to polyhydric alcohol, has a bacteriostatic effect, and has an antiseptic effect when the addition amount is about 5%. P-hydroxyacetophenone is a multifunctional cosmetic ingredient with antioxidant and soothing effects; the preservative can be used as a substitute of the traditional preservative in cosmetics, has the effects of corrosion prevention and synergism, can promote the effects of various preservatives, and has excellent stability in high and low pH and temperature ranges; it can be used in various formulations, including sunscreen and shampoo, and has good compatibility with various cosmetic components and packaging materials.
The additive phase preservative is ethyl hexyl glycerol with the content of 0.05-0.1 wt%, has the advantages of moisture preservation, antibacterial property and strong stability, is often used as a solvent or an additive, can improve the moistening effect of the product, and has a smooth skin feeling; the composition also enhances the preservative efficacy of other preservatives.
The chelating agent is disodium EDTA.
The buffer is tromethamine with the content of 0.5-1.0 wt%, mainly plays a role in adjusting the pH of a system, and also has the functions of moisturizing and softening.
The additive phase solvent is butanediol with content of 0.1-1 wt%, and can dissolve Cynanchum atratum extract on one hand, and can retain water in stratum corneum when used as small molecule moisture keeping component in skin care product, has good hygroscopicity, and can absorb water of 12.5% (relative humidity 50%) and 38.5% (relative humidity 80%) corresponding to its own mass.
Example 1
A high moisturizing moisture gel cream is prepared by the following steps:
preparation of the aqueous phase: adding an aqueous phase humectant, an emulsifier, an emulsion stabilizer, an aqueous phase preservative, a chelating agent and purified water into a vacuum emulsifying tank according to the addition amount shown in the table 1, mixing, stirring until the mixture is completely dissolved, adding a thickening agent for full dispersion, heating while stirring, raising the temperature to 75 ℃, and uniformly dispersing; cooling to 45 ℃ while stirring to obtain a water phase material for later use;
preparation of oil phase: adding an oil phase humectant, hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine, ceramide 3, cholesterol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and caprylic/capric triglyceride into an oil phase dissolving tank according to the adding amount shown in the table 1, mixing, and uniformly stirring and dispersing to obtain an oil phase; adding the oil phase into the water phase while keeping the temperature of the vacuum emulsifying tank at 45 ℃ for emulsification; then adding an antioxidant, a skin conditioner, an additive phase preservative, a buffering agent, an additive phase solvent and essence according to the adding amount of the table 1, and uniformly stirring; cooling to 35 ℃ while stirring, completely defoaming, and filtering to remove impurities and foreign matters to obtain the high-moisture-retention gel cream.
Example 2
The high moisturizing moisture gel cream of example 2 is different from example 1 in that the preparation of the aqueous phase: adding an aqueous phase humectant, an emulsifier, an emulsion stabilizer, an aqueous phase preservative, a chelating agent and purified water into a vacuum emulsifying tank according to the addition amount shown in the table 1, mixing, stirring until the mixture is completely dissolved, adding a thickening agent for full dispersion, heating while stirring, raising the temperature to 78 ℃, and uniformly dispersing; cooling to 45 ℃ while stirring to obtain a water phase material for later use; the rest is the same as in example 1.
Example 3
The high moisturizing moisture gel cream of example 3 is different from example 1 in that the preparation of the aqueous phase: adding an aqueous phase humectant, an emulsifier, an emulsion stabilizer, an aqueous phase preservative, a chelating agent and purified water into a vacuum emulsifying tank according to the addition amount shown in the table 1, mixing, stirring until the mixture is completely dissolved, adding a thickening agent for full dispersion, heating while stirring, raising the temperature to 80 ℃, and uniformly dispersing; cooling to 45 ℃ while stirring to obtain a water phase material for later use; the rest is the same as in example 1.
Examples 4 to 8
The high moisturizing moisture gel creams of examples 4-8 are different from those of example 2 in the amount of the raw materials, as shown in table 1, and the rest is the same as that of example 2.
TABLE 1 raw material blending amounts (unit: g) of the high moisturizing moisture gel creams of examples 1-8
Figure BDA0002964803640000061
Figure BDA0002964803640000071
Comparative examples 1 to 5
The jelly creams of comparative examples 1 to 5 were prepared in the same manner as in example 1 except that the respective materials were added in the amounts shown in Table 2.
TABLE 2 raw material blending amount (unit: g) of the high moisturizing moisture gel cream of comparative examples 1 to 5
Figure BDA0002964803640000072
Figure BDA0002964803640000081
Safety test
Selecting 140 subjects by using a human skin patch testing method according to the specification requirements of 'cosmetic safety technical specification' 2015 edition, wherein each subject comprises 10 subjects and 14 subjects; using the gel creams of the examples 1-8 and the comparative examples 1-5 to carry out a plurality of times of spot sticking tests on the subjects in the groups 1-13, and putting the samples to be tested into the test holes of the spot tester with the dosage of 0.020 g; group 14 is blank control, no substance is added to the test wells of the spot tester; the test operation is as follows:
applying the spot tester and blank control with the test substance to the same position of forearm curvature of each group of subjects, and lightly pressing with palm to apply the spot tester and blank control to skin for 24 hr; removing the tested substance spot tester for 30min, and observing skin reaction after the indentation disappears; if the result is negative, after resting for 24h, adding the spot tester with the test object and the blank control at the same position for the second time, and continuing for 24 h; removing the tested substance spot tester for 30min, and observing skin reaction after the indentation disappears; if the result is negative, after 24h of rest, adding a spot tester and a blank control of the test object for the third time at the same position for 24 h; removing the tested substance spot tester for 30min, and observing skin reaction after the indentation disappears; if the result is negative, the skin reaction condition after the spot-sticking test is observed respectively after 24h and 48h of the spot-sticking test, and the test result is recorded and detailed in tables 3 and 4.
Wherein, the grading standard of the adverse skin reaction is as follows:
negative reaction is grade 0;
and (3) suspicious reaction: only faint erythema was grade 1;
weak positive reaction: erythema, infiltration, edema, and pimple, grade 2;
strong positive reaction: erythema, infiltration, edema, pimples, herpes, response beyond the test area, grade 3;
very strong positive reaction (fusogenic herpes reaction): obvious erythema, severe infiltration, edema, and fusional herpes, with a response beyond the test area of grade 4.
TABLE 3 Spot test results for the high moisturizing gels of examples 1-8
Figure BDA0002964803640000082
Figure BDA0002964803640000091
As can be seen from the detection results in Table 3, after the high-moisturizing moisture gel cream is applied to a subject, the test results of the patch are all negative for 72h, no adverse reaction occurs, the tested product is judged to have no adverse skin reaction to the human body, and the safety reaches the standard.
TABLE 4 Spot test results for the gels of comparative examples 1-5
Figure BDA0002964803640000101
As is clear from the results in Table 4, comparative examples 1 and 3 to 4 had no adverse reactions; the jelly creams of comparative examples 2 and 5 showed 1/10 (10%) as adverse reaction and weak erythema, and 5/30 (17%) as adverse reaction was explained with reference to the patch results in the specification 2015 edition, so that the test products of comparative examples 1-5 were judged to have no adverse skin reaction on human body.
Skin sensitivity test
Testing parts: the lower cheek region of the eyelid;
test samples: the high moisturizing moisture gel cream prepared in examples 1-8, the moisture gel cream prepared in comparative examples 1-5;
the instrument comprises the following steps: an ARAM HUVIS SKIN WIAZRD ASW-100 SKIN tester,
the test method comprises the following steps: about 15mg of the sample was applied to the cheek and the skin sensitivity was measured 24h later with a skin tester and the results are detailed in table 5.
TABLE 5 skin sensitivity test results for different gels
Skin sensitivity
Example 1 No sensitive reaction
Example 2 No sensitive reaction
Example 3 No sensitive reaction
Example 4 No sensitive reaction
Example 5 No sensitive reaction
Example 6 No sensitive reaction
Example 7 No sensitive reaction
Example 8 No sensitive reaction
Comparative example 1 No obvious sensitive reaction
Comparative example 2 No obvious sensitive reaction
Comparative example 3 The skin has dark surface color and local erythema
Comparative example 4 No obvious sensitive reaction
Comparative example 5 The skin has dark surface color and local erythema
As can be seen from Table 5, after the high-moisturizing moisture gel cream is applied to the face of a human, the gel cream has no irritation to the skin, can strengthen the skin barrier, and has no sensitive reaction after being used for 24 hours. The samples of comparative example 3 and comparative example 5 had a greater skin sensitivity response; the samples of comparative examples 1-2 and comparative example 4 were not significantly sensitive to the skin after application.
Test for moisture retention
According to the method of QB/T4256-2011 'guidelines for evaluating moisturizing efficacy of cosmetics', the moisture retention test is carried out on the moisture gel creams of examples 1-8 and comparative examples 1-5, and the specific test operations are as follows:
the instrument comprises the following steps: ARAM HUVIS SKIN WIAZRD ASW-100 SKIN tester;
testing indexes are as follows: skin moisture content, unit%;
testing parts: each sample was tested on the inner side of the forearm of the arm of 5 volunteers, and each volunteer was tested 3 times each time, and the average value was taken;
the test purpose is as follows: the moisturizing efficacy of the moisture gel cream is evaluated and tested within 0h, 1h, 2h, 4h and 6h, and the results are detailed in tables 6 and 7.
TABLE 6 moisturizing effect of the high moisturizing moisture gels of examples 1-8
Figure BDA0002964803640000111
Figure BDA0002964803640000121
From the results in table 6, it can be seen that the moisture content on the skin surface of multiple groups of volunteers is increased after the high moisturizing moisture gel cream of the present application is used, and the moisturizing effect is obvious; according to the moisture content of the skin surface of each same volunteer at different time, after the high-moisturizing moisture gel cream is used, the moisture content of the skin surface can not be reduced within 6h, the moisture content in 6h is increased compared with the moisture content before use, the increase rate is more than 30%, and can be as high as about 95%, and the moisturizing effect is obvious.
The moisture content of the skin of the same volunteer within 1-6 h is seen, and the moisture content of the skin is increased at different time points, which shows that the high-moisture-retention gel cream can achieve high moisture retention effect when used for a short time or a long time.
TABLE 7 moisturizing effect of high moisturizing moisture gels of comparative examples 1-5
Figure BDA0002964803640000122
Figure BDA0002964803640000131
From the results in table 7, it can be seen that the skin moisture content increase rates of comparative examples 1-5 are substantially less than 50% within 6h, and the moisturizing effect is lower than that of the gel cream of the present application. Comparing the moisture content of the skin of the application with that of the comparative examples 1-5 at 1h and 2h, the moisture content increase rate of the skin of the application at 1h and 2h is higher, and the instant moisturizing effect of the gel cream is better than that of the comparative examples 1-5.
The above-mentioned embodiments are merely illustrative and not restrictive, and those skilled in the art can modify the embodiments without inventive contribution as required after reading this description, but only fall within the scope of the claims of the present application.

Claims (10)

1. The high-moisturizing moisture gel cream is characterized by being prepared from the following components in percentage by weight: 0.01-0.7% of hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine, 3 (0.01-1.0%) of ceramide, 0.01-0.6% of cholesterol, 0.01-0.6% of cetyl alcohol, 0.04-0.6% of stearyl alcohol, 0.01-1.0% of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 10.05-18.35% of water-phase humectant, 3-5% of oil-phase humectant, 1.005-2.01% of emulsifier, 0.01-0.5% of emulsion stabilizer, 0.001-0.3% of antioxidant, 0.15-1.5% of skin conditioner, 0.6-1.5% of thickener, 0.8-2.5% of water-phase preservative, 0.05-0.1% of additive phase preservative, 0.01-0.05% of chelating agent, 0.5-1.05% of buffer, 0.5-1.0% of buffer, and 1% of additive for balancing water, and 100% of purified water.
2. The high moisturizing moisture gel cream according to claim 1, wherein: the water phase humectant comprises fatty alcohol, glycoside, alkaloids, biological polysaccharides, polyquaternium-51 and hydrogenated starch hydrolysate.
3. The high moisturizing moisture gel cream according to claim 2, wherein: the fatty alcohol humectant comprises dipropylene glycol, glycerol and methyl propylene glycol, and the weight ratio is (8-12): (0.5-2.0): (0.1-1).
4. The high moisturizing moisture gel cream according to claim 2, wherein: the alkaloid humectant is betaine, and the weight percentage of the alkaloid humectant is (1-3)%; the glycoside humectant is raffinose, and the weight percentage of the glycoside humectant is (0.1-0.3)%; the biological polysaccharide humectant is biological carbohydrate gum-1, and the weight percentage content is (0.001-0.01)%.
5. The high moisturizing moisture gel cream according to claim 1, wherein: the oil phase humectant comprises cyclohexasiloxane and isononyl isononanoate, and the weight percentage of the cyclohexasiloxane and the isononyl isononanoate is (2-3)%, and (1-2)%, respectively.
6. The high moisturizing moisture gel cream according to claim 1, wherein: the skin conditioner comprises a cynanchum atratum extract and a dioscorea japonica root extract, wherein the weight ratio of the cynanchum atratum extract to the dioscorea japonica root extract is (0.03-1): (0.1-0.5).
7. The high moisturizing moisture gel cream according to claim 1, wherein: the antioxidant comprises tocopherol, and the weight percentage content of the tocopherol is (0.001-0.01).
8. The high moisturizing moisture gel cream according to claim 1, wherein: the thickening agent comprises acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer and carbomer.
9. The high moisturizing moisture gel cream according to claim 1, wherein: the emulsifier comprises lecithin and polyglycerol-10 laurate, and the weight ratio of the lecithin to the polyglycerol-10 laurate is (0.005-0.01): (1-2).
10. A method for preparing the high moisturizing moisture gel cream according to any one of claims 1 to 9, which is prepared by the following steps:
preparation of the aqueous phase: mixing water phase humectant, emulsifier, emulsion stabilizer, water phase antiseptic, chelating agent and purified water, stirring to dissolve, adding thickener to disperse, heating to 75-80 deg.C under stirring, and dispersing uniformly; cooling to 45 ℃ while stirring to obtain a water phase material for later use;
preparation of oil phase: mixing oil phase humectant, hydrogenated phosphatidyl choline, ceramide 3, cholesterol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and caprylic/capric triglyceride, properly heating, stirring and dispersing uniformly to obtain oil phase;
adding the oil phase into the water phase for emulsification, adding an antioxidant, a skin conditioner, an additive phase preservative, a buffering agent and an additive phase solvent, and uniformly stirring; cooling to be defoamed while stirring to obtain the high-moisture-retention gel cream.
CN202110248752.XA 2021-03-06 2021-03-06 High-moisture-retention moisture gel cream and preparation method thereof Pending CN112716823A (en)

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CN114632024A (en) * 2022-03-11 2022-06-17 毕杰辉 Refreshing and moisturizing composition containing hydrogenated starch hydrolysate
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