CN111053728A - Composition for regulating water-oil balance of skin and cosmetic thereof - Google Patents

Composition for regulating water-oil balance of skin and cosmetic thereof Download PDF

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CN111053728A
CN111053728A CN202010040164.2A CN202010040164A CN111053728A CN 111053728 A CN111053728 A CN 111053728A CN 202010040164 A CN202010040164 A CN 202010040164A CN 111053728 A CN111053728 A CN 111053728A
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skin
water
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composition
cosmetic
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CN111053728B (en
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凡吉林
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Guangzhou Jinan Cosmetics Co Ltd
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Guangzhou Jinan Cosmetics Co Ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/361Carboxylic acids having more than seven carbon atoms in an unbroken chain; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/58Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/58Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
    • A61K8/585Organosilicon compounds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A61K8/645Proteins of vegetable origin; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A61K8/65Collagen; Gelatin; Keratin; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/68Sphingolipids, e.g. ceramides, cerebrosides, gangliosides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/736Chitin; Chitosan; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/98Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution of animal origin
    • A61K8/987Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution of animal origin of species other than mammals or birds
    • A61K8/988Honey; Royal jelly, Propolis
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/007Preparations for dry skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/008Preparations for oily skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
    • A61K2800/5922At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18

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Abstract

The invention discloses a composition for regulating water-oil balance of skin and cosmetics thereof, aiming at providing a composition which has the synergistic effect of all components, effectively improves skin barrier, inhibits excessive sebum secretion and simultaneously supplements sufficient moisture for the skin, and the composition mainly comprises the following components in parts by weight: 5-15 parts of Ceramide cation, 4-12 parts of Marine Affinispice, 3-8 parts of Epilobium frechsonii extract, 2-10 parts of Ceramoside HP, 15-25 parts of polyalcohol and 30-40 parts of water; belongs to the technical field of cosmetics.

Description

Composition for regulating water-oil balance of skin and cosmetic thereof
Technical Field
The invention discloses a composition, in particular to a composition for regulating the water-oil balance of skin, belonging to the technical field of cosmetics.
Background
The skin types of each individual are different and can be roughly classified into neutral skin types, oily skin types, dry skin types, mixed skin types, and the like. Neutral skin is fine and elastic, does not dry and is not greasy, is not easy to be allergic, and has few pox, acne, pore blockage and the like; oily skin has vigorous sebum secretion, large pores and oily and bright skin, and is easy to adhere dust and dirt to cause skin infection, acne and the like; dry skin is fine, thin, unobvious in pores, less and uniform in sebum secretion, looks clean and beautiful, but cannot be stimulated by the outside, is flushed and even burning after being stimulated, is lack of water for a long time, and is easy to generate dry lines and fine lines and is easy to relax and age compared with other skin types; the T-shaped areas on the face of the mixed skin, namely the pores of the forehead, the nose and the chin, are large, the grease is secreted much, the acne is easy to grow, and other parts, particularly the two cheeks, the eye periphery and the mouth corner, are dry and easy to wrinkle. Therefore, neutral skin is the skin type which is sought and intended by people, but with the lapse of time, the cell metabolism speed is slowed down, the self-repairing capability of the skin is weakened, and in addition to factors such as ultraviolet rays, temperature and humidity changes, air pollution and the like, water is more easily lost from intercellular spaces or oil secretion is vigorous, so that the moisture content and the oil secretion of the skin are unbalanced, and the skin is immediately deteriorated.
Neutral skin is between dry skin and oily skin, and is the most ideal state of water-oil balance, which is mainly expressed in that: water, which can make the skin full of water; oil, which can make the skin soft and smooth; the moisture and the sebum are proper, the face cannot be full of gloss, and the skin cannot feel tight due to insufficient moisture, namely, when the skin is balanced in moisture and oil, the skin can be in a fine and moist healthy state, and the skin is the most healthy and ideal skin type. However, the water-oil balance of neutral skin is easily disturbed by the change of conditions such as temperature and weather or the influence of living habits. Therefore, how to regulate sebum secretion and reduce water loss according to external or self changes and achieve skin water-oil balance is one of the hotspots of current cosmetic researches.
At present, oil control and moisture retention products on the market are various in variety, but most of the products control sebum secretion exuberance or simply supplement moisture to maintain the healthy state of skin in a single way, so that the problems of large oil output, dryness, fine lines and the like of the skin can be relieved to a certain extent, the skin barrier is also important for water-oil balance in addition to simple oil control and water supplement and is the first barrier for the skin to resist the outside, the skin barrier comprises a sebum membrane and a horny layer, the sebum membrane can generate oil, and the horny layer stores water. Therefore, the excessive secretion of sebum is fundamentally inhibited, sufficient moisture is supplied to the skin, the skin barrier function is repaired, the water-oil balance of the skin is maintained, and the skin can be healthy again.
Disclosure of Invention
In view of the above disadvantages, the present invention aims to provide a composition for regulating water and oil balance of skin, which can effectively improve skin barrier, inhibit excessive sebum secretion, supplement sufficient moisture to skin, control water and oil delicate balance of skin in three-dimensional coordination, regulate oil content and water content on skin surface according to external and skin conditions, and be applied to cosmetics to control oil and water, maintain water and oil balance of skin, and achieve healthy skin state.
Therefore, the first technical scheme provided by the invention is as follows:
a composition for regulating water and oil balance of skin mainly comprises the following components in parts by weight: 5-15 parts of ceramide isothiocyanate, 4-12 parts of Marine Affinispice, 3-8 parts of Epilobium frechsonii extract, 2-10 parts of Ceramoside HP, 15-25 parts of polyalcohol and 30-40 parts of water.
Furthermore, the composition for regulating the water-oil balance of the skin also comprises 2-3 parts of the turfgrass salt horn grass extract.
Further, in the composition for regulating the water and oil balance of the skin, the polyhydric alcohol is one or a combination of more of propylene glycol, butanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol and glycerol.
Further, in the composition for regulating water-oil balance of skin, the mass ratio of the Ceramide cation to the Marine Affinisphere is 1:1-2: 1.
Further, the preparation method of the salix frechtungensis extract for regulating the water and oil balance of the skin comprises the following steps:
1) drying and pulverizing Salicis Babylonicae, and sieving with 50-80 mesh sieve to obtain Salicis Babylonicae powder;
2) carrying out ultrasonic extraction on the powder in the step 1) by using an ethanol solution with the material-liquid ratio of 1:10-1:30(g/mL) and the volume fraction of 60-80%, wherein the ultrasonic temperature is 40-60 ℃, the ultrasonic time is 30-60min, the ultrasonic power is 200-300W, extracting for 2-3 times, combining the extracting solutions, and concentrating under reduced pressure to 1/20 of the original volume;
3) loading the concentrated solution obtained in the step 2) on a D101 macroporous adsorption resin column, eluting with water until the eluent is negative in α -naphthol test, discarding the eluent, eluting with an ethanol solution with the volume concentration of 5-6 times of that of the column of 80% at the elution rate of 1.0-2.0BV/h, recovering the eluent, and concentrating under reduced pressure to dryness to obtain the salix flexneri extract.
The Ceramide cation in the composition for regulating skin water and oil balance is purchased from Basff and is a mixture of hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride honey, phenyl trimethicone, carbomer, atelocollagen, chitosan, cyclodextrin, dextrin, (nerve) sphingolipid, water and butanediol. Marine Affinisher is also available from Basff and is a mixture of hydrolyzed wheat protein, carbomer, sodium stearate, sodium chloride, zinc gluconate, water, butylene glycol. Both ceramicisphere and Marine afinispifire are water dispersible liquids that appear microscopically as biodegradable microspheres. Ceramoside HP is available from Baihabo Co., Ltd, Guangzhou, and is a mixture of glycosphingolipids and glycolipids, which is a plant-derived ceramide.
The composition may also contain one or more of phenoxyethanol, ethylhexyl glycerol, methyl hydroxybenzoate, sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, and citric acid.
The second technical scheme provided by the invention is as follows:
a cosmetic comprises the composition for regulating water and oil balance of skin and common matrix of cosmetic external preparation and/or deionized water.
Specifically, the composition for regulating the water-oil balance of the skin accounts for 0.5-7% of the total mass of the cosmetic.
Specifically, the above cosmetic preparation type is not particularly limited, and is preferably water, cream, lotion, essence, gel, jelly.
Specifically, the common base of the cosmetic external preparation comprises one or more of an emulsifier, a fat, an emollient, a humectant, a thickener, a polyhydric alcohol, a preservative and an essence.
The technical scheme provided by the invention adopts the following principle: the skin barrier mainly comprises a sebum membrane and a cuticle, wherein the sebum membrane is mainly formed by human body sebum, is a mixture of various lipids, comprises triglyceride, wax ester, squalene, squalane, linoleic acid, oleic acid and the like, can effectively lock water, prevent the excessive evaporation of skin water, prevent external water and certain substances from penetrating in a large amount, keep the water content of the skin in a normal state, and can effectively moisten the skin by the lipid part after the sebum is emulsified with the water so as to keep the skin lubricated and nourished. However, when the skin barrier function is damaged, a large amount of water in the skin begins to run out, external irritants easily penetrate through the stratum corneum, the problems of skin chapping, allergy and redness, skin oil, pox and the like occur immediately, and the skin cannot maintain normal physiological functions. Therefore, the skin barrier function is well protected, the skin oil and moisture content can be maintained in a normal range, the skin immunity is effectively improved, and the skin barrier is very important for water and oil balance.
The skin has enhanced water-oil balance, which is closely related to oil control and moisture retention, and the oil and water produced from the skin are two different systems, and can provide moisturizing and moisturizing effects for the skin after normal oil and water are secreted, the oil secreted from the surface of the skin mainly refers to the free sebum secreted by sebaceous gland cells in pores, and when the free sebum secreted by the sebaceous gland cells is more, the oil skin condition occurs, and at the moment, the oil control is needed, and a plurality of factors influencing the secretion function of the sebaceous glands comprise age, in-vivo hormone level, diet, external environment and the like.
When the lipid secreted by sebaceous glands is too little to provide moisturizing function for skin, water is required to be supplemented and moisturizing is required, which depends on a horny layer moisturizing system under a sebaceous membrane, and skin lipid components in an epidermal horny layer mainly comprise ceramide, cholesterol, free fatty acid and a small amount of cholesterol ester. The stratum corneum can only absorb water from the dermis layer or the outside through the natural moisturizing factor NMF, and can be combined with water in the stratum corneum, so that the water content of the stratum corneum is maintained through regulating the stored water, and the skin is in a moist state. In fact, moisturizing is important for both dry and oily skin.
It is not negligible to achieve the water-oil balance of the skin, that is, the moisture content and oil secretion of the skin are not constant, but "water-oil dynamic changes" along with the change of time and environment, and for people with mixed skin, the T region is greasy easily compared with other parts, and the cheeks and the eye periphery are dry. Therefore, it is necessary to develop a material or a technique capable of precisely adjusting the water and oil balance of the skin according to the external environment and the skin condition.
The Ceramide cation surfactant provided by the technical scheme of the invention mainly comprises substances such as hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride honey, phenyl trimethyl siloxane, atelocollagen, chitosan, sphingolipid and the like, wherein the hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride honey is extracted from honey and then subjected to quaternary ammonium salinization treatment, so that the Ceramide cation surfactant has an excellent antistatic effect and also has the effects of moisturizing and moistening; chitosan is a positively charged biopolymer, easily binds to tissues such as skin, which are often negatively charged, and it is a polyhydroxy compound that can bind and retain moisture through hydrogen bonds, has excellent moisturizing properties, and the moisturizing ability is almost equivalent to that of hyaluronic acid; sphingolipids, also known as ceramides, occur naturally in the skin and are very important components of the skin barrier (stratum corneum), which can form a waterproof barrier on the skin surface, which can help the skin to retain water and repair the skin lipid barrier. The preparation method comprises the steps of synthesizing hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride honey and chitosan into a polymer with positive charges through a certain preparation process, wrapping a certain content of ceramide, microscopically presenting a biodegradable microsphere, wherein the microsphere can provide a special high affinity for areas with negative charges, such as dry areas of skin, gradually releasing the ceramide, providing moisture for the skin, and repairing skin barriers.
The Marine Affinispihere provided by the technical scheme of the invention mainly comprises substances such as hydrolyzed wheat protein, sodium stearate, zinc gluconate and the like, is microscopically biodegradable microspheres, and is prepared by coating an oil control active substance (zinc gluconate) with an oleophylic component, positioning and releasing the oil control active substance only at a skin oil gathering part, inhibiting the activity of 5 α -reductase in an oil gland active area, inhibiting oil secretion from a root source and improving skin gloss.
The willow herb extract provided by the technical scheme of the invention is rich in tannin substances, can effectively inhibit the activity of 5 α -reductase, reduces sebum accumulation, and finally achieves the purpose of controlling oil secretion.
The CERAMOSIDE HP provided by the technical scheme of the invention is also called wheat ceramide, is purely natural, is hydrolyzed into sphingosine in the skin, is further synthesized into ceramide according to requirements, can regulate the water loss of the skin, improves the adhesion force in the horny layer and the quality of a skin protection barrier, and recovers the natural barrier of the skin.
The invention can also be added with the turfgrass salt cornstalk extract which is rich in vitamins, mineral substances and other marine active ingredients, particularly rich in calcium, iron, sodium, amino acid, mineral substances and the like, can promote the skin to recover good barrier function, ensure that a cornified envelope is healthier and thicker, further well protect the skin from environmental damage, prevent water loss, promote the synthesis of hyaluronic acid, ceramide synthetase-3 and silk fibroin, and provide better moisturizing and moistening effects for the skin.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following beneficial effects:
(1) the composition can effectively regulate oil-water secretion of skin through synergistic effect of the Ceramide Caiosphere and the Marine AffiniSPHERE, wherein the Ceramide Caiosphere is a biodegradable microsphere, the surface of the Ceramide Caiosphere is positively charged, a special high affinity can be provided for a skin dry area with negative charge, then Ceramide is gradually released to provide moisture for the skin and repair a skin barrier, the Marine AffiniSPHERE is only released at a skin oil gathering part in a positioning manner, an oil layer on the surface of the microsphere is melted after the component is contacted with sebum of an oil outlet area, so that an oil control active substance (zinc gluconate) wrapped in the microsphere is released, the sebum secretion is regulated and controlled through inhibiting the activity of 5 α -reductase in an oil gland active area, the skin gloss is improved, the skin dry area and the oil area are respectively identified and acted under the synergistic effect according to different requirements of the dry and oily states of the skin, the Marine Affinial oil-water balance is regulated, and the composition can better exert the effect under the condition of compounding of a specific proportion.
(2) The composition disclosed by the invention can be used for three-dimensionally harmonizing and controlling the water-oil balance of the skin through a way of improving the skin barrier, inhibiting excessive sebum secretion and simultaneously supplementing sufficient moisture to the skin, so that the aim of achieving the water-oil balance according to the external and skin conditions is fulfilled. The coordination of the Ceramide cation and the Marine AffiniSPHERE can effectively regulate the oil and water secretion of the skin; the Salicis Babylonicae extract and zinc gluconate synergistically inhibit sebum secretion; ceramoside HP, (sphingolipids) and the extract of Salicornia herbacea can be used for synergistically enhancing the effects of moisturizing water and skin and improving skin barrier.
Detailed Description
The following claims are hereby incorporated into the detailed description of the invention, with the understanding that the invention is not to be limited in any way, as any number of modifications may be made by one within the scope of the claims and the invention is still within the scope of the claims.
Example 1
The invention provides a composition for regulating water and oil balance of skin, which comprises the following components in parts by weight: 5 parts of Ceramide cation, 12 parts of Marine Affinispere, 6 parts of willow herb extract, 2 parts of Ceramoside HP, 20 parts of glycerol and 40 parts of water.
Example 2
The invention provides a composition for regulating water and oil balance of skin, which comprises the following components in parts by weight: 8 parts of Ceramide cation, 4 parts of Marine Affinispere, 8 parts of willow leaf herb extract, 10 parts of Ceramoside HP, 25 parts of butanediol and 30 parts of water.
Example 3
The invention provides a composition for regulating water and oil balance of skin, which comprises the following components in parts by weight: 15 parts of Ceramide cation, 9 parts of Marine Affinispere, 3 parts of Epilobium frechsonii extract, 7 parts of Ceramoside HP, 15 parts of propylene glycol and 36 parts of water.
Example 4
The invention provides a composition for regulating water and oil balance of skin, which comprises the following components in parts by weight: 10 parts of Ceramide cation, 10 parts of Marine Affinispire, 3 parts of Epilobium frechsii extract, 3 parts of Ceramoside HP, 15 parts of glycerol, 8 parts of butanediol, 2 parts of glasswort extract and 34 parts of water.
Example 5
The invention provides a composition for regulating water and oil balance of skin, which comprises the following components in parts by weight: 12 parts of Ceramide cation, 6 parts of Marine Affinispire, 4 parts of Epilobium frechsonii extract, 4 parts of Ceramoside HP, 12 parts of glycerol, 10 parts of butanediol, 3 parts of 1, 2-hexanediol, 3 parts of glasswort extract, 0.2 part of citric acid, 0.1 part of potassium sorbate, 0.3 part of ethylhexylglycerol and 37 parts of water.
The method for preparing the willowherb extract of fleshy saururus in the above examples 1-5 mainly comprises the following steps:
1) drying and pulverizing Salicis Babylonicae, and sieving with 50-80 mesh sieve (preferably 70 mesh sieve) to obtain Salicis Babylonicae powder;
2) carrying out ultrasonic extraction on the powder in the step 1) by adding an ethanol solution with the material-liquid ratio of 1:10-1:30 (preferably 1:20) (g/mL) and the volume fraction of 60% -80% (preferably 70%), wherein the ultrasonic temperature is 40-60 ℃ (preferably 50 ℃), the ultrasonic time is 30-60min (preferably 40min), the ultrasonic power is 200-300W (preferably 260W), extracting for 2-3 times (preferably 3 times), combining the extracting solutions, and concentrating under reduced pressure to 1/20 of the original volume;
3) loading the concentrated solution obtained in the step 2) on a D101 macroporous adsorption resin column, eluting with water until the eluent is negative in α -naphthol test, discarding the eluent, eluting with 5-6 times (preferably 6 times) of ethanol solution with the column volume concentration of 80% and the elution rate of 1.0-2.0BV/h (preferably 1.5BV/h), recovering the eluent, and concentrating under reduced pressure to dryness to obtain the salix flexneri extract.
The preparation method of the composition for regulating the water and oil balance of the skin in any one of the embodiments 1 to 5 comprises the following steps:
1) mixing ethylhexyl glycerol with small amount of polyhydric alcohol uniformly in advance for use (when there is no phenoxyethanol, this step is omitted);
2) stirring potassium sorbate with small amount of water to dissolve uniformly in advance for use (when no potassium sorbate is contained, the step is omitted);
3) heating water to 40-45 deg.C, adding polyalcohol, stirring, adding the mixture of step 1) and step 2), stirring, adding the materials except Marine Affinispere, and stirring;
4) cooling the mixture obtained in the step 3) to 30 ℃, adding Marine Affinische, and regularly and uniformly stirring to obtain the product.
To demonstrate the effect of the present invention, comparative experimental examples of the present application are given below:
comparative example 1
Compared with example 1, only Marine Affinispire is replaced by spiraea ulmaria extract with the same oil control effect, and other components are the same.
Comparative example 2
Compared with example 1, only the Ceramide cation is replaced by the hydrolyzed yeast protein with the same moisture-keeping and barrier-repairing effects, and other components are the same.
The preparation method of the Salicis Babylonicae extract of comparative examples 1 and 2 is the same as that of example.
Comparative example 3
Compared with example 1, only the Salicis Babylonicae Freyn extract was changed to spiraea ulmaria extract with the same oil control effect, and other components were the same.
Comparative examples 1-3 the compositions of any one of the groups were prepared in the same manner as in the examples.
The composition for regulating the water-oil balance of the skin can be used as an active ingredient for preparing moisturizing and oil-controlling cosmetics. The cosmetic also comprises common matrix of cosmetic external preparation and/or deionized water, and mainly comprises emulsifier, oil, emollient, humectant, thickener, polyol, antiseptic, essence, etc. When the composition is used specifically, the composition prepared by the invention is directly added into a cosmetic matrix, and the addition amount is 0.5-7 wt%.
To better illustrate the advantages of the present invention, the following are the efficacy tests of the composition for regulating the water-oil balance of skin provided by the present invention:
test 1: skin irritation test
1) Test samples: compositions prepared in examples 1-5.
2) The test method comprises the following steps: 30 healthy volunteers are selected, the age is 18-24 years, the test subjects meet the volunteer selection standard, no history of allergic dermatitis exists, and no irritant product is used in the previous month.
Taking about 0.020-0.025 ml of a test sample, coating the test sample in a small chamber of a spot tester (Beijing science popularization instrument factory), applying a special adhesive tape for external application on the back of a testee, removing the spot tester after 24 hours, slightly wiping off the residual product by using a wet paper towel after the residual product exists, and recording the result according to the skin reaction grading standard in technical Specification for cosmetic safety (2015) at 0.5 hour, 24 hours and 48 hours respectively. The identification criteria are shown in Table 1.
TABLE 1 identification standards
Grade Identification criteria
0 Has no irritation and erythema
1 Mild erythema
2 Erythema
3 Erythema, pimples, blisters
4 Severe edema and bulla
As can be seen from the results of the closed patch test, 30 subjects showed no adverse reaction and no symptoms such as erythema, burning sensation, pruritus and the like in the skin water-oil balance regulating compositions prepared in examples 1 to 5 at 0.5 hour, 24 hours and 48 hours. The composition of the invention is safe and mild to use and has no stimulation to skin.
And (3) testing 2: skin barrier function test
The skin moisture loss TEWL is an important parameter for evaluating the function of a skin moisture protective layer and can be used for evaluating the strength of the skin barrier function. The better the skin protection layer, the higher the moisture content and the lower the value of the skin moisture loss TEWL.
1) Test samples: the compositions of examples 1 to 5 and comparative examples 1 to 3 were added to the following emulsion bases, respectively, in an amount of 2 wt% to obtain moisturizing and oil-controlling cosmetics containing the compositions of examples 1 to 5 and comparative examples 1 to 3, which were designated as emulsions 1 to 5 and comparative emulsions 1 to 3 in this order, and the emulsion bases were used as controls.
Phase A: cetearyl olive oleate// sorbitan olive oleate 1.5g, glyceryl stearate// PEG-100 stearate 0.7g, isostearyl isostearate 4g, caprylic/capric triglyceride 4g, ethylhexyl palmitate 3g, tocopheryl acetate 0.2g, methyl hydroxybenzoate 0.15 g;
phase B: allantoin 0.5g, trehalose 1g, glycerol 6g, propylene glycol 3g, carbomer 0.1g, and water added to 100 g;
and C phase: 0.02g of sodium hydroxide and 2g of water;
phase D: 2g of the compositions of examples 1-5 or comparative examples 1-3, a proper amount of preservative, a proper amount of anti-allergy agent and a proper amount of essence.
The preparation methods of the above emulsions 1-5 and comparative emulsions 1-3 were as follows:
heating the phase A material to 80-85 ℃, stirring and dissolving uniformly, and keeping the temperature for later use; mixing and dispersing the materials of the phase B uniformly, heating to 90 ℃, homogenizing uniformly, then adding the treated phase A, and emulsifying uniformly; cooling to 60 ℃, adding the uniformly mixed C-phase material, and uniformly stirring; and continuously cooling to 45 ℃, adding the D-phase material, and uniformly stirring.
2) The test method comprises the following steps: 45 subjects with ages of 18 to 35 years and oil content basic value of forehead test area larger than 180 (namely oily or mixed oily skin subjects) are selected and randomly divided into 9 groups, 5 subjects in each group use a Tewameter TM300 to test the skin moisture loss amount before and on the 14 th day of using a test sample, the test sample is respectively repeated for 5 times to obtain an average value, the moisture loss change is reflected in a test period, and the water loss in the test area changes along with time. The smaller the value, the less water loss and the stronger the skin barrier function; conversely, the weaker the skin barrier function. The change rate (water loss after use-initial water loss)/initial water loss, the smaller this value, indicates that the smaller the water loss, the stronger the skin barrier function of the test sample. During the test period the subjects applied the cosmetic once in the morning and once in the evening, and were unable to apply any other cosmetic to the test site. The test environment temperature is: 20-22 ℃, humidity is as follows: 40-60%. The results of the skin TEWL measurements are shown in Table 2.
TABLE 2 skin TEWL assay results
Figure BDA0002367455760000091
The experimental results in Table 2 show that the skin barrier function of the emulsion containing the composition of the invention is better, after 14 days of use, the skin TEWL value change rate of the emulsion containing the composition of the invention is more than 22%, and the skin TEWL value change rate of the comparative emulsion is only about 14%, which indicates that the skin barrier function can be enhanced by compounding the components, and the influence of the external environment on the skin can be effectively resisted.
And (3) testing: oil control and water supplement efficacy test
1) Test samples: emulsions 1, 3, 5 from test 2, comparative emulsions 1, 3, and a control emulsion base were used.
2) The test method comprises the following steps: the corresponding volunteers in test 2 were still used, 5 per group, and before and on day 14 of product use, the oil content of the forehead was measured using a skin oil test probe Sebumeter SM815, the water content of the forehead was measured using a skin water test probe Corneometer CM825, 3 times per area, and the average was taken; during the test period the subjects applied the cosmetic once in the morning and once in the evening, and were unable to apply any other cosmetic to the test site. The test environment temperature is: 20-22 ℃, humidity is as follows: 40-60%. The test results are shown in table 3.
TABLE 3 oil and moisture content of skin
Figure BDA0002367455760000101
As can be seen from the experimental results in Table 3, the skin oil secretion can be effectively inhibited by continuously using the emulsion prepared by the composition of the invention for 14 days, so as to achieve good oil control effect; the skin moisture content increase rate of the emulsion prepared by the composition is superior to that of a comparative emulsion, which shows that the components in the composition have synergistic effect, so that the oil can be deeply removed, the skin grease can be cleaned, the skin moisture content can be obviously increased, and the problem of water-oil balance of the faces of experimenters can be obviously improved.
The above embodiments are preferred embodiments of the present invention, but the present invention is not limited to the above embodiments, and any other changes, modifications, substitutions, combinations, and simplifications which do not depart from the spirit and principle of the present invention should be construed as equivalents thereof, and all such changes, modifications, substitutions, combinations, and simplifications are intended to be included in the scope of the present invention.

Claims (9)

1. The composition for regulating the water-oil balance of skin is characterized by mainly comprising the following components in parts by weight: 5-15 parts of Ceramide cation, 4-12 parts of Marine AffiniSPHERE, 3-8 parts of Epilobium frechsonii extract, 2-10 parts of Ceramoside HP, 15-25 parts of polyalcohol and 30-40 parts of water.
2. The composition for regulating skin water-oil balance as claimed in claim 1, further comprising 2-3 parts of a turfgrass salt horn extract.
3. The composition for regulating skin water and oil balance as claimed in claim 1, wherein the polyhydric alcohol is one or more of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, 1, 2-hexanediol and glycerin.
4. The composition for regulating skin water-oil balance as claimed in claim 1, wherein the mass ratio of Ceramide cation to Marine affinispere is 1:1-2: 1.
5. The composition for regulating skin water and oil balance as claimed in claim 1, wherein the Epilobium frechsii extract is prepared by the following steps:
1) drying and pulverizing Salicis Babylonicae, and sieving with 50-80 mesh sieve to obtain Salicis Babylonicae powder;
2) carrying out ultrasonic extraction on the powder in the step 1) by using an ethanol solution with the material-liquid ratio of 1:10-1:30(g/mL) and the volume fraction of 60-80%, wherein the ultrasonic temperature is 40-60 ℃, the ultrasonic time is 30-60min, the ultrasonic power is 200-300W, extracting for 2-3 times, combining the extracting solutions, and concentrating under reduced pressure to 1/20 of the original volume;
3) loading the concentrated solution obtained in the step 2) on a D101 macroporous adsorption resin column, eluting with water until the eluent is negative in α -naphthol test, discarding the eluent, eluting with an ethanol solution with the volume concentration of 5-6 times of that of the column of 80% at the elution rate of 1.0-2.0BV/h, recovering the eluent, and concentrating under reduced pressure to dryness to obtain the salix flexneri extract.
6. A cosmetic comprising the composition for regulating the water-oil balance of skin according to any one of claims 1 to 4 and a usual base for a cosmetic preparation for external use and/or deionized water.
7. The cosmetic according to claim 6, wherein the composition for regulating the water-oil balance of the skin accounts for 0.5-7% of the total mass of the cosmetic.
8. The cosmetic of claim 6, wherein said cosmetic formulation is of the type water, cream, lotion, essence, gel, jelly.
9. The cosmetic according to claim 6, wherein the usual base of the cosmetic external preparation comprises one or more of an emulsifier, a fat, an emollient, a humectant, a thickener, a polyol, a preservative and a perfume.
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