CN113244151B - Soothing repair cream and preparation method thereof - Google Patents

Soothing repair cream and preparation method thereof Download PDF

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CN113244151B
CN113244151B CN202110604739.3A CN202110604739A CN113244151B CN 113244151 B CN113244151 B CN 113244151B CN 202110604739 A CN202110604739 A CN 202110604739A CN 113244151 B CN113244151 B CN 113244151B
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soothing
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CN113244151A (en
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孟宏
曲召辉
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Zhiran Tiancheng Beijing Biotechnology Co ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
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    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/55Phosphorus compounds
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/63Steroids; Derivatives thereof
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    • A61K8/68Sphingolipids, e.g. ceramides, cerebrosides, gangliosides
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    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
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    • A61K8/9794Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
    • A61K2800/5922At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18

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Abstract

The invention discloses a soothing repair cream and a preparation method thereof, and belongs to the technical field of cosmetics. The soothing and repairing cream comprises a broom cypress fruit extract, a purslane extract, a honeysuckle flower extract, a duckweed extract, a schizonepeta extract, a plum fruit extract, ceramide, lecithin, phytosterol and conventional auxiliary materials in the field of cosmetics. The invention also discloses a preparation method of the soothing repair cream. The soothing repair cream can remarkably improve and maintain the moisture content of skin, has the effects of soothing the skin, repairing the skin barrier, improving the skin tolerance and the like, and has the characteristics of easy absorption, good skin feeling, no stickiness and the like.

Description

Soothing repair cream and preparation method thereof
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a soothing and repairing cream and a preparation method thereof.
Background
In recent years, internal and external factors such as endocrine dyscrasia and the like caused by aggravation of air pollution, excessive skin care and large working pressure lead to the increase of people with sensitive muscles. Nowadays, sensitive muscles have become a topic of global concern. The expression characteristics of sensitive skin span a wide range, and the sensitive skin is classified from mild symptoms of skin itching to severe symptoms such as pimple inflammation. Sensitive skin is susceptible to a variety of skin problems or symptoms that occur simultaneously, including skin barrier dysfunction, decreased skin moisture content, increased transepidermal water loss, decreased sebum content, skin inflammation, dryness, redness, itching, and the like. Therefore, repairing skin barriers, deeply moisturizing and improving tolerance are all functional characteristics which an anti-sensitive skin care product must have.
At present, sensitive skin care products in the market mainly relieve sensitivity and repair damage, the product forms are mostly in the form of lotion or cream applied to the face, and the concept of mainly fighting is natural plant extraction. However, the skin care market of sensitive muscles is not mature enough, for example, prinsepia utilis royle oil, centella extract, edelweiss essence and the like are the most rapidly-growing soothing sensitive repair components of the products in the last half of the year, but the cognitive degree of the sensitive muscles is still relatively low, and the sensitive muscles are usually required to be used together with various plant extracts to obtain the soothing sensitive effect. The document (CN112137921A) discloses a soothing and anti-allergy composition, an application thereof and a soothing and anti-allergy mask, wherein the soothing and anti-allergy composition comprises a pecan extract, a linseed extract, a schizonepeta extract, a centella asiatica extract, a purslane extract, a honeysuckle extract, a folium artemisiae argyi extract, a scutellaria baicalensis extract, a saposhnikovia divaricata extract, a camellia oleifera extract, a safflower extract, a royal jelly extract, a ginkgo biloba extract, a burdock extract and a xanthium sibiricum extract, and has certain effects of repairing damaged skin and soothing and calming skin. However, the effect of the relieving and anti-allergy composition is one-sided, and the relieving effect is not ideal, and more than ten plant extracts in the raw materials may cause adverse reaction, thereby increasing the skin burden.
Therefore, the development of a soothing and repairing cream with good soothing effect and comprehensive efficacy and capable of improving the skin tolerance is very necessary.
Disclosure of Invention
The main purpose of the invention is to provide a soothing repair cream which can remarkably improve and maintain the moisture content of skin, has the effects of soothing the skin, repairing the skin barrier, improving the skin tolerance and the like, and is easy to absorb, good in skin feeling and non-sticky.
Therefore, the technical scheme provided by the application is as follows:
in a first aspect, the invention provides a soothing and repairing cream.
According to the invention, the soothing and repairing cream comprises a fructus kochiae extract, a purslane extract, a honeysuckle extract, a duckweed extract, a schizonepeta extract and a plum fruit extract.
According to the invention, the soothing and repairing cream comprises, by weight, 0.5 wt% -5.0 wt% of fructus kochiae extract, 0.5 wt% -5.0 wt% of purslane extract, 0.3 wt% -3.0 wt% of honeysuckle extract, 0.3 wt% -3.0 wt% of duckweed extract, 0.05 wt% -2.0 wt% of herba schizonepetae extract and 0.05 wt% -2.0 wt% of plum fruit extract.
According to the invention, the soothing cream also comprises ceramides, lecithins and phytosterols.
According to the invention, the soothing and repairing cream comprises 0.01-0.5 wt% of ceramide, 0.01-2.0 wt% of lecithin and 0.01-1.0 wt% of phytosterol in parts by weight.
According to the invention, the soothing and repairing cream comprises 0.5 wt% -5.0 wt% of fructus kochiae extract, 0.5 wt% -5.0 wt% of purslane extract, 0.3 wt% -3.0 wt% of honeysuckle extract, 0.3 wt% -3.0 wt% of duckweed extract, 0.05 wt% -2.0 wt% of herba schizonepetae extract, 0.05 wt% -2.0 wt% of plum fruit extract, 0.01 wt% -0.5 wt% of ceramide, 0.01 wt% -2.0 wt% of lecithin and 0.01 wt% -1.0 wt% of phytosterol in parts by weight of the soothing and repairing cream.
The fructus kochiae extract: has the effects of inhibiting bacteria, clearing heat, promoting diuresis, dispelling pathogenic wind, relieving itching, etc.
And (3) purslane extract: the composition contains plant polysaccharides and vitamins, and has effects in nourishing and lubricating skin, relieving skin and inhibiting skin pruritus caused by dryness, and the composition contains flavones and saponins for resisting oxidation and delaying skin aging, and the composition contains alkaloids and flavones for resisting bacteria and inhibiting common pathogenic dermatophytes.
Honeysuckle flower extract: contains abundant polyphenols and chlorogenic acid, and can reduce skin inflammation.
Duckweed extract: contains flavonoids such as erythrocin and vitexin, and has antipyretic and antibacterial effects.
Herba schizonepetae extract: the main active component is flavone, and has antibacterial activity to Bacillus subtilis, Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Escherichia coli, and Pseudomonas aeruginosa.
Plum extract: has good eliminating capacity on superoxide radical, can promote the generation of collagen, and has the functions of resisting wrinkle and resisting aging; also has anti-inflammatory effect.
According to the invention, the ceramide is one or more of ceramide NP and ceramide EOP.
According to the invention, the lecithin is one or more of lecithin, hydrogenated lecithin and hydroxylated lecithin.
According to the invention, the phytosterol comprises one or more of phytosterol, phytosterol ester, phytosterol isostearate and phytosterol derivatives.
According to the invention, the soothing and repairing cream also comprises the conventional auxiliary materials in the field of cosmetics, namely polyhydric alcohol, chelating agent, thickening agent, emulsifier, emollient, fatty alcohol, skin conditioner and antioxidant.
According to the invention, the auxiliary materials in the soothing repair cream comprise the following components in percentage by weight: 3.0 to 15.0 weight percent of polyhydric alcohol, 0.01 to 0.5 weight percent of chelating agent, 0 to 5.0 weight percent of thickening agent, 0.5 to 5.0 weight percent of emulsifier, 1.05 to 30.0 weight percent of emollient, 0.5 to 15.0 weight percent of fatty alcohol, 0.01 to 8.0 weight percent of skin conditioning agent and 0.01 to 0.1 weight percent of antioxidant.
According to the invention, the polyalcohol is one or more selected from glycerol, butanediol, hexanediol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and pentanediol.
According to the invention, the chelating agent is selected from one or more of disodium EDTA, trisodium EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA and sodium glucoheptonate.
According to the invention, the thickening agent is selected from one or more of polyacrylate cross-linked polymer-6, xanthan gum, carrageenan, hydroxyethyl cellulose, sodium polyacrylate grafted starch, polyvinyl alcohol, carbomer, acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer and acryloyl dimethyl ammonium taurate/VP copolymer.
According to the invention, the emulsifier is selected from one or more of sucrose stearate, cetearyl glucoside, coco glucoside, glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate.
According to the invention, the emollient comprises one or more of shea butter, beeswax, polydimethylsiloxane, isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, sunflower seed oil, jojoba esters, and jojoba seed oil.
According to the invention, the fatty alcohol comprises one or more of cetyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol.
According to the invention, the skin conditioning agent comprises one or more of trehalose, allantoin, tocopherol acetate.
According to the invention, the antioxidant is pentaerythritol tetrakis (bis-tert-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate) ester.
According to the invention, the soothing repair cream further comprises a preservative and an essence.
According to the present invention, the preservative is a preservative conventional in the art.
According to the present invention, the perfume is conventional in the art.
According to the invention, the soothing treatment cream comprises a phase A, a phase B and a phase C.
According to the invention, the phase a comprises: water, polyhydric alcohol, chelating agent, thickening agent, fructus Kochiae extract, herba Portulacae extract, flos Lonicerae extract, herba Spirodelae extract, herba Schizonepetae extract, mume fructus extract, and skin conditioner.
According to the invention, the phase B comprises: emulsifiers, fatty alcohols, emollients, skin conditioners, lecithin, ceramides, phytosterols, pentaerythritol tetrakis (bis-tert-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate) ester.
According to the invention, the phase C comprises: preservative and essence.
According to the invention, the soothing repair cream comprises the following raw materials in parts by weight:
Phase A: 100 percent of water To, 3.0 To 15.0 percent of polyalcohol, 0.01 To 0.5 percent of EDTA disodium, 0 To 5.0 percent of thickening agent, 0.5 To 5.0 percent of broom cypress fruit extract, 0.5 To 5.0 percent of purslane extract, 0.3 To 3.0 percent of honeysuckle flower extract, 0.3 To 3.0 percent of duckweed extract, 0.05 To 2.0 percent of herba schizonepetae extract, 0.05 To 2.0 percent of plum fruit extract, 0 To 5.0 percent of trehalose and 0.01 To 1.0 percent of allantoin;
phase B: 0.5-5.0 wt% of emulsifier, 0-6.0 wt% of isopropyl isostearate, 0-4.0 wt% of isostearyl isostearate fatty alcohol, 0.5-15.0 wt% of shea butter, 0.5-10.0 wt% of shea butter, 0-4.0 wt% of polydimethylsiloxane, 0.01-3.0 wt% of beeswax, 0-1.5 wt% of sunflower seed oil, 0.01-1.5 wt% of jojoba seed oil, 0.01-2.0 wt% of jojoba esters, 0.01-1.0 wt% of phytosterols, 0-2.0 wt% of tocopherol acetate, 0.01-2.0 wt% of lecithin, 0.01-0.5 wt% of ceramide, and 0.01-0.1 wt% of pentaerythritol tetra (di-tert-butyl hydroxyhydro) cinnamate;
and C phase: 0-1.0 wt% of preservative and 0-1.0 wt% of essence.
According to some specific embodiments of the invention, the soothing and repairing cream comprises the following raw materials in parts by weight:
Phase A: 100 parts of water To, 2.0-8.0 parts of glycerol, 0-2.0 parts of pentanediol, 0-1.0 part of 1, 2-hexanediol, 0-4.0 part of butanediol, 0.01-0.5 part of disodium EDTA (ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid), 0-3.5 parts of xanthan gum, 60-2.0 parts of polyacrylate cross-linked polymer, 0.5-5.0 parts of fructus kochiae extract, 0.5-5.0 parts of purslane extract, 0.3-3.0 parts of honeysuckle extract, 0.3-3.0 parts of duckweed extract, 0.05-2.0 parts of herba schizonepetae extract, 0.05-2.0 parts of plum fruit extract, 0-5.0 parts of trehalose and 0.01-1.0 part of allantoin;
phase B: 0 to 3.0 wt% cetyl alcohol/cetearyl glucoside/sucrose stearate, 0 to 3.0 wt% cetearyl alcohol/cocoyl glucoside, 0 to 6.0 wt% isopropyl isostearate, 0 to 4.0 wt% fatty alcohol isostearate, 0.5 to 15.0 wt% cetearyl alcohol, 0.5 to 10.0 wt% shea butter, 0 to 4.0 wt% dimethicone, 0.01 to 3.0 wt% beeswax, 0-1.5 wt% of sunflower seed oil, 0.01-1.5 wt% of jojoba seed oil, 0.01-2.0 wt% of jojoba esters, 0.01-1.0 wt% of phytosterols, 0-2.0 wt% of tocopherol acetate, 0.01-2.0 wt% of lecithin, 0.01-0.5 wt% of ceramide NP, and 0.01-0.1 wt% of pentaerythritol tetra (di-tert-butyl hydroxy hydrocinnamate);
And C phase: 0.01 wt% -0.8 wt% of phenoxyethanol/ethylhexyl glycerin.
According to the present invention, the soothing moisturizer can be prepared by a method that is conventional in the art.
According to some embodiments of the invention, the soothing repair cream is prepared by a preparation method comprising the following steps:
1) stirring the phase A until the phase A is completely dissolved, heating to 80-85 ℃, and preserving heat;
2) stirring phase B until completely dissolved, heating to 80-85 deg.C, and maintaining the temperature;
3) adding the phase B into the phase A raw material, and homogenizing at constant temperature for 3-5 min;
4) cooling to below 45 deg.C under stirring, adding phase C, and stirring;
5) stirring and cooling, cooling to below 38 ℃, filtering and discharging.
In a second aspect, the present invention provides a method of preparing the soothing cream of the first aspect of the present invention.
According to the invention, the preparation method of the soothing and moisturizing cream comprises the following steps:
stirring the phase A until the phase A is completely dissolved, heating to 80-85 ℃, and preserving heat;
stirring phase B until completely dissolved, heating to 80-85 deg.C, and maintaining the temperature;
adding the phase B into the phase A raw material, and homogenizing at constant temperature for 3-5 min;
cooling to below 45 deg.C under stirring, adding phase C, and stirring;
stirring and cooling, cooling to below 38 ℃, filtering and discharging.
According to the invention, the phase a comprises: 100 percent of water To, 3.0 To 15.0 percent of polyalcohol, 0.01 To 0.5 percent of EDTA disodium, 0 To 5.0 percent of thickening agent, 0.5 To 5.0 percent of broom cypress fruit extract, 0.5 To 5.0 percent of purslane extract, 0.3 To 3.0 percent of honeysuckle flower extract, 0.3 To 3.0 percent of duckweed extract, 0.05 To 2.0 percent of herba schizonepetae extract, 0.05 To 2.0 percent of plum fruit extract, 0 To 5.0 percent of trehalose and 0.01 To 1.0 percent of allantoin.
According to the invention, the phase B comprises: 0.5-5.0 wt% of emulsifier, 0-6.0 wt% of isopropyl isostearate, 0-4.0 wt% of isostearyl alcohol isostearate fatty alcohol, 0.5-15.0 wt% of fatty alcohol, 0.5-10.0 wt% of shea butter, 0-4.0 wt% of polydimethylsiloxane, 0.01-3.0 wt% of beeswax, 0-1.5 wt% of sunflower seed oil, 0.01-1.5 wt% of jojoba seed oil, 0.01-2.0 wt% of jojoba esters, 0.01-1.0 wt% of phytosterols, 0-2.0 wt% of tocopherol acetate, 0.01-2.0 wt% of lecithin, 0.01-0.5 wt% of ceramide NPs, and 0.01-0.1 wt% of pentaerythritol tetra (bis-tert-butyl hydroxy hydrocinnamate).
According to the invention, the phase C comprises: 0-1.0 wt% of preservative and 0-1.0 wt% of essence.
According to the invention, the polyalcohol is one or more selected from glycerol, butanediol, hexanediol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and pentanediol.
According to the invention, the thickening agent is selected from one or more of polyacrylate cross-linked polymer-6, xanthan gum, carrageenan, hydroxyethyl cellulose, sodium polyacrylate grafted starch, polyvinyl alcohol, carbomer, acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer and acryloyl dimethyl ammonium taurate/VP copolymer.
According to the invention, the emulsifier is selected from one or more of sucrose stearate, cetearyl glucoside, coco glucoside, glycerol stearate, PEG-100 stearate.
According to the invention, the fatty alcohol comprises one or more of cetyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol.
The invention has the advantages of
1) The soothing and repairing cream comprises functional components such as a broom cypress fruit extract, a purslane herb extract, a honeysuckle flower extract, a duckweed extract, a schizonepeta herb extract, a plum fruit extract, ceramide, lecithin, phytosterol and the like, and a soothing and repairing system with multiple effects and remarkable effects is formed through the synergistic effect of the plant active components and the functional components such as the ceramide, the lecithin, the phytosterol and the like. The soothing and repairing cream can remarkably improve and maintain the moisture content of skin, and has the effects of soothing the skin, repairing the skin barrier, improving the skin tolerance and the like.
2) The soothing and repairing cream disclosed by the invention has the characteristics of easiness in absorption, good skin feel in use, no stickiness and the like.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a graph of the rate of change of the EI value of skin heme index repaired using samples after SDS stimulation;
FIG. 2 is the rate of change of transdermal water loss using samples to rejuvenate skin following SDS stimulation;
FIG. 3 is a graph of mean change in lactate sting score;
FIG. 4 is a graph of the mean change in lactic acid itch score.
Detailed Description
The invention is further illustrated below with reference to specific examples, to which, however, the invention is not restricted.
It should be appreciated by those skilled in the art that the present invention is not limited to the above embodiments, and any changes and modifications to the present invention are within the scope of the present invention.
The experimental methods described in the following examples are all conventional methods unless otherwise specified; the experimental materials and reagents are commercially available, unless otherwise specified.
Examples 1 to 8
Examples 1-8 soothing creme compositions and ratios are shown in table 1.
TABLE 1 soothing cream compositions and ratios
Figure BDA0003093778760000051
Figure BDA0003093778760000061
Figure BDA0003093778760000071
Example 1 a soothing treatment cream preparation process includes the following steps:
1) mixing phase A water, glycerol, pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, butanediol, EDTA disodium, xanthan gum, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, Kochiae fructus extract, herba Portulacae extract, flos Lonicerae extract, herba Spirodelae extract, herba Schizonepetae extract, mume fructus extract, trehalose, and allantoin, stirring to completely dissolve, heating to 85 deg.C, and keeping the temperature;
2) stirring cetyl alcohol/cetearyl glucoside/sucrose stearate, cetearyl alcohol/cocoyl glucoside, isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, cetearyl alcohol, shea butter, polydimethylsiloxane, beeswax, sunflower seed oil, jojoba esters, phytosterols, tocopherol acetate, hydrogenated lecithin, ceramide, pentaerythritol tetrakis (bis-tert-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate) ester in the B phase until complete dissolution, heating to 85 deg.C, and keeping the temperature;
3) Adding the mixed solution of the phase B in the step 2) into the mixed solution of the phase A in the step 1), and homogenizing for 4min at the speed of 2000r/min-3500r/min by using a constant-temperature homogenizer;
4) cooling to 45 deg.C under stirring, adding phenoxyethanol/ethylhexylglycerin into the C phase, and stirring;
5) stirring, cooling to 38 ℃, filtering and discharging.
Example 2 a soothing treatment cream preparation process includes the following steps:
1) mixing phase A water, glycerol, pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, butanediol, EDTA disodium, xanthan gum, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, Kochiae fructus extract, herba Portulacae extract, flos Lonicerae extract, herba Spirodelae extract, herba Schizonepetae extract, mume fructus extract, trehalose, and allantoin, stirring to completely dissolve, heating to 83 deg.C, and keeping the temperature;
2) stirring cetyl alcohol/cetearyl glucoside/sucrose stearate, cetearyl alcohol/cocoyl glucoside, isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, cetearyl alcohol, shea butter, polydimethylsiloxane, beeswax, sunflower seed oil, jojoba esters, phytosterols, tocopherol acetate, hydrogenated lecithin, ceramide, pentaerythritol tetrakis (bis-tert-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate) ester in the B phase until complete dissolution, heating to 83 ℃, and keeping the temperature;
3) Adding the mixed solution of the phase B in the step 2) into the mixed solution of the phase A in the step 1), and homogenizing for 5min at the speed of 2000r/min-3500r/min by using a constant-temperature homogenizer;
4) cooling to 45 deg.C under stirring, adding phenoxyethanol/ethylhexyl glycerol into phase C, and stirring;
5) stirring, cooling, filtering and discharging at 38 ℃.
Example 3 the process for preparing a soothing moisturizer comprises the following steps:
1) mixing phase A water, glycerol, pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, butanediol, EDTA disodium, xanthan gum, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, Kochiae fructus extract, herba Portulacae extract, flos Lonicerae extract, herba Spirodelae extract, herba Schizonepetae extract, mume fructus extract, trehalose, and allantoin, stirring to completely dissolve, heating to 80 deg.C, and keeping the temperature;
2) stirring cetyl alcohol/cetearyl glucoside/sucrose stearate, cetearyl alcohol/cocoyl glucoside, isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, cetearyl alcohol, shea butter, polydimethylsiloxane, beeswax, sunflower seed oil, jojoba esters, phytosterols, tocopherol acetate, hydrogenated lecithin, ceramide, pentaerythritol tetrakis (bis-tert-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate) ester in the B phase until complete dissolution, heating to 80 deg.C, and keeping the temperature;
3) Adding the mixed solution of the phase B in the step 2) into the mixed solution of the phase A in the step 1), and homogenizing for 3min at the speed of 2000r/min-3500r/min by using a constant-temperature homogenizer;
4) cooling to 45 deg.C under stirring, adding phenoxyethanol/ethylhexylglycerin into the C phase, and stirring;
5) stirring, cooling to 38 ℃, filtering and discharging.
Examples 4-8 soothing creams were prepared according to the same procedure as in example 1.
Comparative examples 1 to 12
Comparative examples 1-12 soothing treatment compositions and ratios are shown in table 2.
TABLE 2 soothing cream compositions and ratios
Figure BDA0003093778760000091
Figure BDA0003093778760000101
Figure BDA0003093778760000111
Comparative examples 1-12 soothing moisturizers were prepared according to the same procedure as in example 1.
And (3) marketing competitive products:
the main components comprise water, glycerol, 1, 2-pentanediol, shea butter, polydimethylsiloxane, tridecyl alcohol trimellitate, prinsepia utilis royle oil, physalis alkekengi calyx extract, purslane extract, ceramide NP and the like.
1. Moisture content of skin
Test samples: examples 1-2, comparative examples 1-12, and commercial offerings;
testing the population: selecting 35 volunteers (18-55 years old, male and female without limitation);
testing parts: any 6 test areas on the flexor side of the forearm;
the test method comprises the following steps: about 0.05g of each test sample was applied to the test area and gently massaged until complete absorption. The moisture content of the skin in the flexed test area of the forearm of the tester before use and after 1h, 2h, 4h, 6h of use of the test samples was tested using a skin moisture content tester Corneometer (CM 825, Courage and Khazaka, germany) to evaluate the moisturizing efficacy of the test samples; the larger the value, the better the moisturizing effect of the test sample.
TABLE 3 average skin moisture content before and after application and statistical results
Figure BDA0003093778760000121
As shown in table 3, compared with the commercially available competitive products and the comparative examples, the soothing and repairing cream of examples 1-2 significantly increased the moisture content of the skin within 6 hours after use, which indicates that the soothing and repairing cream prepared by using the combination of the belvedere fruit extract, the purslane extract, the honeysuckle extract, the duckweed extract, the schizonepeta herb extract, the plum fruit extract, the ceramide, the lecithin and the phytosterol improves the moisture content of the skin and has better moisturizing effect. Within 4h to 6h after the application, compared with the comparative example, the soothing repair cream in the examples 1 to 2 keeps higher moisture content of the skin, which shows that the soothing repair cream has better water locking capacity on the basis of water replenishing.
2. Percutaneous water loss and redness removing effect
A skin damage model is established by SDS stimulation of a certain concentration, a test sample is continuously smeared on damaged skin for 5 days, and the repairing and protecting effects of the sample on the damaged skin caused by the SDS stimulation are evaluated through skin heme and percutaneous water loss TEWL test.
Test samples: examples 1-2, comparative examples 5-10 and commercial offerings;
Testing the population: 9 volunteers (18-55 years old, male and female unlimited);
testing parts: randomly selecting 8 areas on the back of the volunteer;
the test method comprises the following steps: the test samples were applied 2 times a day for 5 consecutive days, and skin heme and skin moisture loss were measured in the test area using a skin heme tester mexmeter (MX18, Courage and Khazaka, germany) and in the skin moisture loss tester aquaflux (AF200, BIOX, uk) before application of the samples after model building (D0), and after application of the samples for 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 days (D1-D5). The larger the skin heme index EI value is, the higher the skin heme content is; the larger the mean value of skin TEWL, the faster the transdermal water loss of the skin.
TABLE 4 skin hemoglobin index EI values before and after sample application and statistical results
Figure BDA0003093778760000131
As can be seen from table 4 and fig. 1, the soothing treatment creams of examples 1-2 have a significant red-dispelling effect on SDS-stimulated redness compared to the blank, comparative and commercial treatments. Compared with comparative examples 5-10, the soothing repair cream disclosed by the invention improves the effect of lowering the heme index EI value of the soothing repair cream by blending the composition and the proportion of the ceramide, the lecithin, the phytosterol, the fructus kochiae extract, the purslane extract, the honeysuckle extract, the duckweed extract, the herba schizonepetae extract and the plum fruit extract. Experimental data show that the skin redness can be reduced by compounding ceramide, lecithin, phytosterol and plant-derived active substances, and the effect of relieving SDS stimulation is shown.
TABLE 5 mean values of TEWL loss on skin before and after application and statistical results
Figure BDA0003093778760000132
As shown in table 5 and fig. 2, the average TEWL values for all test areas were reduced compared to before use (D0); compared with the blank, the market competitive products and the comparative examples, the reduction range of the skin moisture loss through skin in the using area is larger in the examples at the same testing time point, which shows that the soothing and repairing cream prepared by compounding the plant source active substances with the ceramide, the lecithin and the phytosterol has better capability of inhibiting the skin moisture loss, and further shows that the soothing and repairing cream has the efficacy of repairing the skin barrier.
From the above data, the decrease in the local hemoglobin EI value and the transdermal water loss was the greatest after 5 days using the test samples of examples 1-2. In the same time, compared with blank, commercial competitive products and comparative examples, the soothing and repairing cream in the examples 1-2 has better skin barrier repairing effect, which shows that when ceramide, lecithin, phytosterol, fructus kochiae extract, purslane extract, honeysuckle extract, duckweed extract, herba schizonepetae extract and plum fruit extract are compounded for use, the soothing and repairing cream is synergistic and has better soothing and repairing effect on skin, and also shows that the soothing and repairing cream has the efficacy of soothing and repairing damaged skin.
3. Tolerance to lactic acid
Test samples: examples 1-2, comparative examples 5-10 and commercial offerings;
testing the population: 35 volunteers (18-55 years old, male and female unlimited);
testing parts: nasolabial folds on both sides of the face;
the test method comprises the following steps: a filter paper (diameter: about 0.8cm) impregnated with 50. mu.L of a 10% lactic acid solution was applied simultaneously to the nasolabial folds of the test subjects, and when they could feel the stimulation score of 2 or more (stimulation end point), they were selected as lactic acid-intolerant subjects.
Screening 35 lactic acid stimulation intolerant persons, continuously smearing different test samples on test areas on two sides of the face for 1 week, and then performing a lactic acid sting test to test the efficacy of the samples in improving skin tolerance. Two samples in the same group are randomly distributed at the nasolabial folds at two sides of a tester, the sample application amount of each region is 0.1mL, and after lactic acid stimulation, the tester subjectively evaluates the itching feeling and the stabbing pain feeling at the nasolabial folds at two sides. The efficacy of the test samples in improving skin tolerance and the differences between samples were evaluated by comparison of the degree of irritation. Evaluation was performed by 4-point method, and sensory evaluation of the sensation of prickling, itching, etc. (0: no sensation, 1: slight sensation, 2: moderate sensation, and 3: strong sensation) was performed, and the score was accurate to 0.5 point. The change in the prickle and scrapie scores in the test area after use of the test samples are shown in Table 6 and FIGS. 3-4.
TABLE 6 score of prickling and itching in various regions
Figure BDA0003093778760000141
Figure BDA0003093778760000151
As can be seen from Table 6 and FIGS. 3-4, the soothing moisturizers of examples 1-2 improved the skin's tolerance to lactic acid irritation as compared to the comparative examples and the commercial offerings. This is probably because the skin barrier is repaired and the tolerance of the skin to lactic acid irritation is further improved when ceramide, lecithin, phytosterols, fructus kochiae extract, purslane extract, honeysuckle extract, duckweed extract, schizonepeta extract and plum fruit extract are compounded for use. Experimental data show that the soothing repair cream has the effect of improving the skin tolerance.
4. Comparison of Using feeling and after-Using skin feeling
20 volunteers (18-55 years old, male and female unlimited) were selected, and each volunteer used example 1, comparative example 8 and a commercial race and performed skin sensation test on 3 test sites on the inner forearm. The tester subjectively scores according to the trial experience. The scoring standard is divided into 10 grades, the scoring indexes and the scoring standards are shown in table 7, and the average results are shown in table 8.
TABLE 7 trial experience Scoring criteria
Figure BDA0003093778760000152
TABLE 8 evaluation results of test products (example 1, comparative example 8 and commercially available auction products)
Example 1 Comparative example 8 Competition product
Degree of stickiness in use 0.50 1.05 1.55
The absorption speed is high or low when in use 8.00 7.85 6.55
Moistening after use 8.70 8.15 6.65
Use ofFeeling of rear softness 7.80 7.25 6.85
As can be seen from Table 8, compared with comparative example 8 and the competitive products, the soothing and repairing cream in example 1 is not sticky and easy to absorb when used, and the skin is moist and soft after being used. Experiments prove that the soothing repair cream disclosed by the invention is good in skin feel after being used, non-sticky and easy to absorb.
The above examples are given for the purpose of illustrating the invention clearly and not for the purpose of limiting the same, and it will be apparent to those skilled in the art that, in light of the foregoing description, numerous modifications and variations can be made in the form and details of the embodiments of the invention described herein, and it is not intended to be exhaustive or to limit the invention to the precise forms disclosed.

Claims (7)

1. The soothing and repairing cream is characterized by comprising, by weight, 0.5-5.0% of broom cypress fruit extract, 0.5-5.0% of purslane extract, 0.3-3.0% of honeysuckle flower extract, 0.3-3.0% of duckweed extract, 0.05-2.0% of schizonepeta extract, 0.05-2.0% of plum fruit extract, 0.01-0.5% of ceramide, 0.01-2.0% of lecithin, 0.01-1.0% of phytosterol, 3.0-15.0% of polyhydric alcohol, 0.01-0.5% of chelating agent, 0-5.0% of thickening agent, 0.5-5.0% of emulsifying agent, 1.05-30.0% of skin moistening agent, 0.5-15.0% of fatty alcohol, 0.01-0.0% of skin conditioning agent, 0.01-0.1 wt% of antioxidant, 0-1.0wt% of preservative, 0-1.0wt% of essence and water to 100wt%, wherein the lecithin is selected from one or more of lecithin, hydrogenated lecithin and hydroxylated lecithin.
2. A soothing cream as claimed in claim 1, wherein the ceramide is one or more of ceramide NP and ceramide EOP, and the phytosterol is one or more of phytosterol and phytosterol ester.
3. A soothing cream as claimed in claim 1 wherein the polyhydric alcohol is selected from one or more of glycerol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, pentylene glycol; and/or the chelating agent is selected from one or more of disodium EDTA, trisodium EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA and sodium glucoheptonate; and/or the thickening agent is selected from one or more of polyacrylate cross-linked polymer-6, xanthan gum, carrageenan, hydroxyethyl cellulose, sodium polyacrylate grafted starch, polyvinyl alcohol, carbomer, acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer and acryloyl dimethyl ammonium taurate/VP copolymer; and/or the emulsifier is one or more selected from sucrose stearate, cetearyl glucoside, coco glucoside, glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate; and/or the emollient comprises one or more of shea butter, beeswax, polydimethylsiloxane, isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl alcohol isostearate, sunflower seed oil, jojoba esters, and jojoba seed oil; and/or the fatty alcohol comprises one or more of cetyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol; and/or the skin conditioning agent comprises one or more of trehalose, allantoin and tocopherol acetate; and/or the antioxidant is pentaerythritol tetrakis (bis-tert-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate).
4. A soothing cream as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 3 wherein the soothing cream is comprised of phases a, B and C;
the phase A is as follows: water, polyhydric alcohol, chelating agent, thickening agent, fructus Kochiae extract, herba Portulacae extract, flos Lonicerae extract, herba Spirodelae extract, herba Schizonepetae extract, mume fructus extract, skin conditioner; the phase B is as follows: emulsifiers, fatty alcohols, emollients, skin conditioners, lecithins, ceramides, phytosterols, pentaerythritol tetrakis (bis-tert-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate); the phase C is as follows: preservative and essence.
5. A soothing cream as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 3 wherein the soothing cream is prepared from the following raw materials:
phase A: water to 100wt%, polyhydric alcohol 3.0-15.0 wt%, EDTA disodium 0.01-0.5 wt%, thickener 0-5.0wt%, broom cypress fruit extract 0.5-5.0 wt%, purslane extract 0.5-5.0 wt%, honeysuckle flower extract 0.3-3.0 wt%, duckweed extract 0.3-3.0 wt%, Schizonepeta tenuifolia extract 0.05-2.0 wt%, Prunus mume fruit extract 0.05-2.0 wt%, trehalose 0-5.0wt%, and allantoin 0.01-1.0 wt%;
phase B: 0.5-5.0 wt% of emulsifier, 0-6.0wt% of isopropyl isostearate, 0-4.0wt% of isostearyl isostearate, 0.5-15.0 wt% of fatty alcohol, 0.5-10.0 wt% of shea butter, 0-4.0wt% of polydimethylsiloxane, 0.01-3.0 wt% of beeswax, 0-1.5wt% of sunflower seed oil, 0.01-1.5 wt% of jojoba seed oil, 0.01-2.0 wt% of jojoba esters, 0.01-1.0 wt% of phytosterols, 0-2.0wt% of tocopherol acetate, 0.01-2.0 wt% of lecithin, 0.01-0.5 wt% of ceramide, and 0.01-0.1 wt% of pentaerythritol tetra (di-tert-butyl hydroxyhydro) ester;
And C phase: 0-1.0wt% of preservative and 0-1.0wt% of essence.
6. A soothing cream as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 3 wherein the soothing cream is prepared from the following raw materials:
phase A: 100wt% of water, 2.0wt% -8.0wt% of glycerol, 0-2.0wt% of pentanediol, 0-1.0wt% of 1, 2-hexanediol, 0-4.0wt% of butanediol, 0.01wt% -0.5wt% of disodium EDTA, 0-3.5wt% of xanthan gum, 60-2.0 wt% of polyacrylate cross-linked polymer, 0.5wt% -5.0wt% of fructus kochiae extract, 0.5wt% -5.0wt% of purslane extract, 0.3wt% -3.0wt% of honeysuckle extract, 0.3wt% -3.0wt% of duckweed extract, 0.05wt% -2.0wt% of herba schizonepetae extract, 0.05wt% -2.0wt% of plum fruit extract, 0-5.0wt% of trehalose, and 0.01wt% -1.0wt% of allantoin;
phase B: 0 to 3.0wt% of cetyl alcohol/cetearyl glucoside/sucrose stearate, 0 to 3.0wt% of cetearyl alcohol/cocoyl glucoside, 0 to 6.0wt% of isopropyl isostearate, 0 to 4.0wt% of isostearyl isostearate, 0.5 to 15.0wt% of cetearyl alcohol, 0.5 to 10.0wt% of shea butter, 0 to 4.0wt% of polydimethylsiloxane, 0.01 to 3.0wt% of beeswax, 0.01-1.5wt% of sunflower seed oil, 0.01-1.5wt% of jojoba esters, 0.01-1.0 wt% of phytosterol, 0-2.0wt% of tocopherol acetate, 0.01-2.0 wt% of lecithin, 0.01-0.5 wt% of ceramide NP, and 0.01-0.1 wt% of pentaerythritol tetra (di-tert-butyl hydroxy hydrocinnamate);
And C phase: 0.01-0.8 wt% of phenoxyethanol/ethylhexyl glycerin.
7. A method of preparing a soothing cream as claimed in any one of claims 4 to 6, wherein the method of preparation comprises the steps of:
1) stirring the phase A until the phase A is completely dissolved, heating to 80-85 ℃, and preserving heat;
2) stirring phase B until completely dissolved, heating to 80-85 deg.C, and maintaining the temperature;
3) adding the phase B into the phase A raw material, and homogenizing at constant temperature for 3-5 min;
4) cooling to below 45 deg.C under stirring, adding phase C, and stirring;
5) stirring and cooling, cooling to below 38 ℃, filtering and discharging.
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