CN113529253A - 一种抗皱仿真丝面料及其加工工艺 - Google Patents

一种抗皱仿真丝面料及其加工工艺 Download PDF

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CN113529253A
CN113529253A CN202110776300.9A CN202110776300A CN113529253A CN 113529253 A CN113529253 A CN 113529253A CN 202110776300 A CN202110776300 A CN 202110776300A CN 113529253 A CN113529253 A CN 113529253A
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yarn
crease
fabric
resistant
core
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施能欣
刘艳瑜
施少郎
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Mingfeng Fujian Weaving Co ltd
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Mingfeng Fujian Weaving Co ltd
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Abstract

本发明公开了一种抗皱仿真丝面料及其加工工艺，所述面料以抗皱PET纤维长丝和氨纶包芯纱的复合丝、真丝纱线为原料，所述抗皱PET纤维长丝和氨纶包芯纱的复合丝位于面料的外侧，真丝纱线位于面料的内侧，所述抗皱PET纤维长丝和氨纶包芯纱的复合丝完全覆盖真丝纱线。本发明对PET纤维长丝的纺丝浆与抗皱整理液混合后制备抗皱PET纤维长丝，能够使得显著提高面料的抗皱性能，提高面料的耐水洗性和服用性能。本发明的抗皱仿真丝面料，尺寸稳定、质地如真丝，手感爽滑，柔软舒适，具有良好的透湿性、透气性、抗皱性等特性。

Description

一种抗皱仿真丝面料及其加工工艺
技术领域
本发明涉及面料技术领域，具体涉及一种抗皱仿真丝面料及其加工工艺。
背景技术
真丝被称为“纤维皇后”，面料光泽柔和，美丽轻盈、手感柔软且富有弹性，具有良好的透气性和吸湿性，但真丝面料价格昂贵，面料成本高，织物易老化发黄，保养困难，易起皱、易沾身。由于真丝面料价格昂贵，基本是由仿真丝面料代替真丝面料，仿真丝面料是采用多种化纤原料结合或通过织造、印染等工艺，制造出接近真丝的一种面料，市面上的仿真丝面料一般是由锦纶、涤纶、粘胶纤维的超细丝和异型丝等来织造轻薄织物，通过印染中的碱减量处理，将纤维表面腐蚀出凹凸不平的小坑穴，以此增强透气效果，弥补如涤纶纤维闷热不透气的缺点，然后再通过柔软整理和抗静电整理，使面料的吸水性增强，从而更加接近真丝绸的服用性能要求。但大多数仿真丝面料手感较硬，吸湿和导湿性差，易起皱，弹性不佳，衣着感不好，无法满足消费者的需求。
中国专利CN101270522A公开了一种抗皱仿真丝面料及其织造方法，面料采用超细涤纶DTY作表经，锦纶DTY作里经，爱用涤纶丝嵌织式组织结构的方法仿制真丝面料。但采用上述方法，面料可能存在易产生静电、吸湿性差等缺点。中国专利CN107541841A公开了一种聚乳酸长丝仿真丝绸面料的制备方法，面料用线密度为50～150dtex的聚乳酸长丝作为经纬纱，或者采用线密度为50～150dtex的聚乳酸长丝与桑蚕丝作为经纬纱交织，配置上机经密为540～720根/10cm，上机纬密为400～550根/10cm，并配置织物组织平纹、三上二下右斜纹或五枚三飞缎纹制成织物坯布，再经精炼、水洗和烘干定型制成面料成品。然而这种面料可能存在弹性差，易起皱等缺点。
发明内容
有鉴于此，本发明提供一种抗皱仿真丝面料及其加工工艺，以解决上述技术问题。
本发明提供如下技术方案：
一种抗皱仿真丝面料，所述面料以抗皱PET纤维长丝和氨纶包芯纱的复合丝、真丝纱线为原料，所述抗皱PET纤维长丝和氨纶包芯纱的复合丝位于面料的外侧，真丝纱线位于面料的内侧，所述抗皱PET纤维长丝和氨纶包芯纱的复合丝完全覆盖真丝纱线。
优选地，所述抗皱PET纤维长丝和氨纶包芯纱的复合丝中抗皱PET纤维长丝与氨纶包芯纱的质量比为2～4:1～3。
优选地，所述抗皱PET纤维长丝的制备包括以下步骤：将PET切片和粘胶纤维分别放入烘箱中干燥预处理；将干燥后的PET切片和粘胶纤维在反应釜中混合，熔融后得到混合浆料；将混合浆料与抗皱整理液混合，在反应釜中共混、熔融，再通过双螺杆挤出机的三叶型喷丝孔挤压得到PET纤维，然后经碱减量处理，烘干后制得抗皱PET纤维长丝。
更优选地，所述PET切片和粘胶纤维的质量比为2～5:1。
更优选地，所述抗皱整理液包括以下重量份的原料：柠檬酸30份～70份、蜜胺树脂5份～10份、氯化镁3份～5份、氢氧化钠2份～4份。
优选地，所述氨纶包芯纱包括芯层纱线和外层纱线，外层纱线包覆卷绕于芯层纱线外侧，所述芯层纱线由氨纶丝及丝光棉纤维组成，所述氨纶包芯纱中氨纶丝的含量≤15％；所述外层纱线为CoolMax长丝，所述CoolMax长丝的细度为70dtex～85dtex。
更优选地，所述氨纶包芯纱的制备方法包括以下步骤：将氨纶丝与光棉纤维进行加捻卷曲制成芯层纱线，控制芯层纱线的黏度为400捻/m～800捻/m，并将纱线置于整经架中，经浆纱机和烘干机对芯层纱线进行上浆处理，将浆料包覆后的芯层纱线经包芯纱装置与CoolMax长丝进行卷绕包覆。
更优选地，所述芯层纱线进行上浆处理过程中，浆纱机中的上浆浆料包括以下重量份的原料：磷酸酯淀粉浆25份～50份、柠檬酸3份～5份、1,2,3,4-丁烷四羧酸2份～5份、精氨酸1份～3份、聚丙烯3份～5份、聚乙烯3份～5份、马来酸酐接枝聚乙烯0.5份～1份、甘油5份～7份。
更优选地，所述氨纶包芯纱中芯层纱线的牵伸倍数为3倍～5倍，所述氨纶包芯纱的包覆度为600圈/m～660圈/m。
本发明另一目的在于提供一种上述抗皱仿真丝面料的加工工艺，包括以下步骤：
将抗皱PET纤维长丝和氨纶包芯纱通过纺纱工序加工成复合丝，与真丝纱线采用添纱工艺织造，制得面料坯布后，再经机上剖幅打卷整理、精炼、水洗和烘干定型，制得抗皱仿真丝面料。
从上述的技术方案可以看出，本发明的有益效果是：
本发明的抗皱仿真丝面料，尺寸稳定、质地如真丝，手感爽滑，柔软舒适，具有良好的透湿性、透气性、抗皱性等特性，解决了纯仿真丝PET面料易起皱易起球的缺陷，服用性能良好，可应用各种女士时装、丝巾等。本发明的抗皱仿真丝面料以抗皱PET纤维长丝和氨纶包芯纱的复合丝、真丝纱线为原料，能够实现本发明面料保持良好的尺寸稳定性，并使得面料具有较好的吸湿排汗功能，且相较于真丝面料，成本低。本发明对PET纤维长丝的纺丝浆与抗皱整理液混合后制备抗皱PET纤维长丝，能够使得显著提高面料的抗皱性能，提高面料的耐水洗性和服用性能。
具体实施方式
为使本发明的目的、技术方案和优点更加清楚明白，下面结合实施方式，对本发明做进一步详细说明。在此，本发明的示意性实施方式及其说明用于解释本发明，但并不作为对本发明的限定。
实施例1
一种抗皱仿真丝面料及其加工工艺
抗皱仿真丝面料，所述面料以抗皱PET纤维长丝和氨纶包芯纱的复合丝、真丝纱线为原料，所述抗皱PET纤维长丝和氨纶包芯纱的复合丝位于面料的外侧，真丝纱线位于面料的内侧，所述抗皱PET纤维长丝和氨纶包芯纱的复合丝完全覆盖真丝纱线。
上述抗皱PET纤维长丝和氨纶包芯纱的复合丝中抗皱PET纤维长丝与氨纶包芯纱的质量比为2:1。上述抗皱PET纤维长丝的制备包括以下步骤：将PET切片和粘胶纤维分别放入烘箱中干燥预处理；将干燥后的PET切片和粘胶纤维在反应釜中混合，熔融后得到混合浆料；将混合浆料与抗皱整理液混合，在反应釜中共混、熔融，再通过双螺杆挤出机的三叶型喷丝孔挤压得到PET纤维，然后经碱减量处理，烘干后制得抗皱PET纤维长丝。
上述PET切片和粘胶纤维的质量比为2:1。上述抗皱整理液包括以下重量份的原料：柠檬酸30份、蜜胺树脂5份、氯化镁3份、氢氧化钠2份。
上述氨纶包芯纱包括芯层纱线和外层纱线，外层纱线包覆卷绕于芯层纱线外侧，上述芯层纱线由氨纶丝及丝光棉纤维组成，上述氨纶包芯纱中氨纶丝的含量≤15％；上述外层纱线为CoolMax长丝，上述CoolMax长丝的细度为70dtex。
上述氨纶包芯纱的制备方法包括以下步骤：将氨纶丝与光棉纤维进行加捻卷曲制成芯层纱线，控制芯层纱线的黏度为400捻/m，并将纱线置于整经架中，经浆纱机和烘干机对芯层纱线进行上浆处理，将浆料包覆后的芯层纱线经包芯纱装置与CoolMax长丝进行卷绕包覆。
上述芯层纱线进行上浆处理过程中，浆纱机中的上浆浆料包括以下重量份的原料：磷酸酯淀粉浆25份、柠檬酸3份、1,2,3,4-丁烷四羧酸2份、精氨酸1份、聚丙烯3份、聚乙烯3份、马来酸酐接枝聚乙烯0.5份、甘油5份。上述氨纶包芯纱中芯层纱线的牵伸倍数为3倍，上述氨纶包芯纱的包覆度为600圈/m。
上述抗皱仿真丝面料的加工工艺，包括以下步骤：
将抗皱PET纤维长丝和氨纶包芯纱通过纺纱工序加工成复合丝，与真丝纱线采用添纱工艺织造，制得面料坯布后，再经机上剖幅打卷整理、精炼、水洗和烘干定型，制得抗皱仿真丝面料。
实施例2
一种抗皱仿真丝面料及其加工工艺
抗皱仿真丝面料，所述面料以抗皱PET纤维长丝和氨纶包芯纱的复合丝、真丝纱线为原料，所述抗皱PET纤维长丝和氨纶包芯纱的复合丝位于面料的外侧，真丝纱线位于面料的内侧，所述抗皱PET纤维长丝和氨纶包芯纱的复合丝完全覆盖真丝纱线。
上述抗皱PET纤维长丝和氨纶包芯纱的复合丝中抗皱PET纤维长丝与氨纶包芯纱的质量比为2.5:1.5。上述抗皱PET纤维长丝的制备包括以下步骤：将PET切片和粘胶纤维分别放入烘箱中干燥预处理；将干燥后的PET切片和粘胶纤维在反应釜中混合，熔融后得到混合浆料；将混合浆料与抗皱整理液混合，在反应釜中共混、熔融，再通过双螺杆挤出机的三叶型喷丝孔挤压得到PET纤维，然后经碱减量处理，烘干后制得抗皱PET纤维长丝。
上述PET切片和粘胶纤维的质量比为3:1。上述抗皱整理液包括以下重量份的原料：柠檬酸40份、蜜胺树脂6份、氯化镁3.5份、氢氧化钠2.5份。
上述氨纶包芯纱包括芯层纱线和外层纱线，外层纱线包覆卷绕于芯层纱线外侧，上述芯层纱线由氨纶丝及丝光棉纤维组成，上述氨纶包芯纱中氨纶丝的含量≤15％；上述外层纱线为CoolMax长丝，上述CoolMax长丝的细度为75dtex。
上述氨纶包芯纱的制备方法包括以下步骤：将氨纶丝与光棉纤维进行加捻卷曲制成芯层纱线，控制芯层纱线的黏度为500捻/m，并将纱线置于整经架中，经浆纱机和烘干机对芯层纱线进行上浆处理，将浆料包覆后的芯层纱线经包芯纱装置与CoolMax长丝进行卷绕包覆。
上述芯层纱线进行上浆处理过程中，浆纱机中的上浆浆料包括以下重量份的原料：磷酸酯淀粉浆30份、柠檬酸3.5份、1,2,3,4-丁烷四羧酸3份、精氨酸1.5份、聚丙烯3.5份、聚乙烯3份、马来酸酐接枝聚乙烯0.7份、甘油5.5份。
上述氨纶包芯纱中芯层纱线的牵伸倍数为3倍，上述氨纶包芯纱的包覆度为630圈/m。
上述抗皱仿真丝面料的加工工艺，包括以下步骤：
将抗皱PET纤维长丝和氨纶包芯纱通过纺纱工序加工成复合丝，与真丝纱线采用添纱工艺织造，制得面料坯布后，再经机上剖幅打卷整理、精炼、水洗和烘干定型，制得抗皱仿真丝面料。
实施例3
一种抗皱仿真丝面料及其加工工艺
抗皱仿真丝面料，所述面料以抗皱PET纤维长丝和氨纶包芯纱的复合丝、真丝纱线为原料，所述抗皱PET纤维长丝和氨纶包芯纱的复合丝位于面料的外侧，真丝纱线位于面料的内侧，所述抗皱PET纤维长丝和氨纶包芯纱的复合丝完全覆盖真丝纱线。
上述抗皱PET纤维长丝和氨纶包芯纱的复合丝中抗皱PET纤维长丝与氨纶包芯纱的质量比为3.5:2。上述抗皱PET纤维长丝的制备包括以下步骤：将PET切片和粘胶纤维分别放入烘箱中干燥预处理；将干燥后的PET切片和粘胶纤维在反应釜中混合，熔融后得到混合浆料；将混合浆料与抗皱整理液混合，在反应釜中共混、熔融，再通过双螺杆挤出机的三叶型喷丝孔挤压得到PET纤维，然后经碱减量处理，烘干后制得抗皱PET纤维长丝。
上述PET切片和粘胶纤维的质量比为4:1。上述抗皱整理液包括以下重量份的原料：柠檬酸60份、蜜胺树脂8份、氯化镁4份、氢氧化钠3份。
上述氨纶包芯纱包括芯层纱线和外层纱线，外层纱线包覆卷绕于芯层纱线外侧，上述芯层纱线由氨纶丝及丝光棉纤维组成，上述氨纶包芯纱中氨纶丝的含量≤15％；上述外层纱线为CoolMax长丝，上述CoolMax长丝的细度为80dtex。
上述氨纶包芯纱的制备方法包括以下步骤：将氨纶丝与光棉纤维进行加捻卷曲制成芯层纱线，控制芯层纱线的黏度为700捻/m，并将纱线置于整经架中，经浆纱机和烘干机对芯层纱线进行上浆处理，将浆料包覆后的芯层纱线经包芯纱装置与CoolMax长丝进行卷绕包覆。
上述芯层纱线进行上浆处理过程中，浆纱机中的上浆浆料包括以下重量份的原料：磷酸酯淀粉浆40份、柠檬酸4.5份、1,2,3,4-丁烷四羧酸4份、精氨酸2.5份、聚丙烯4份、聚乙烯4份、马来酸酐接枝聚乙烯0.8份、甘油6.5份。
上述氨纶包芯纱中芯层纱线的牵伸倍数为4倍，上述氨纶包芯纱的包覆度为650圈/m。
上述抗皱仿真丝面料的加工工艺，包括以下步骤：
将抗皱PET纤维长丝和氨纶包芯纱通过纺纱工序加工成复合丝，与真丝纱线采用添纱工艺织造，制得面料坯布后，再经机上剖幅打卷整理、精炼、水洗和烘干定型，制得抗皱仿真丝面料。
实施例4
一种抗皱仿真丝面料及其加工工艺
抗皱仿真丝面料，所述面料以抗皱PET纤维长丝和氨纶包芯纱的复合丝、真丝纱线为原料，所述抗皱PET纤维长丝和氨纶包芯纱的复合丝位于面料的外侧，真丝纱线位于面料的内侧，所述抗皱PET纤维长丝和氨纶包芯纱的复合丝完全覆盖真丝纱线。
上述抗皱PET纤维长丝和氨纶包芯纱的复合丝中抗皱PET纤维长丝与氨纶包芯纱的质量比为4:3。上述抗皱PET纤维长丝的制备包括以下步骤：将PET切片和粘胶纤维分别放入烘箱中干燥预处理；将干燥后的PET切片和粘胶纤维在反应釜中混合，熔融后得到混合浆料；将混合浆料与抗皱整理液混合，在反应釜中共混、熔融，再通过双螺杆挤出机的三叶型喷丝孔挤压得到PET纤维，然后经碱减量处理，烘干后制得抗皱PET纤维长丝。
上述PET切片和粘胶纤维的质量比为5:1。上述抗皱整理液包括以下重量份的原料：柠檬酸70份、蜜胺树脂10份、氯化镁5份、氢氧化钠4份。
上述氨纶包芯纱包括芯层纱线和外层纱线，外层纱线包覆卷绕于芯层纱线外侧，上述芯层纱线由氨纶丝及丝光棉纤维组成，上述氨纶包芯纱中氨纶丝的含量≤15％；上述外层纱线为CoolMax长丝，上述CoolMax长丝的细度为85dtex。
上述氨纶包芯纱的制备方法包括以下步骤：将氨纶丝与光棉纤维进行加捻卷曲制成芯层纱线，控制芯层纱线的黏度为800捻/m，并将纱线置于整经架中，经浆纱机和烘干机对芯层纱线进行上浆处理，将浆料包覆后的芯层纱线经包芯纱装置与CoolMax长丝进行卷绕包覆。
上述芯层纱线进行上浆处理过程中，浆纱机中的上浆浆料包括以下重量份的原料：磷酸酯淀粉浆50份、柠檬酸5份、1,2,3,4-丁烷四羧酸5份、精氨酸3份、聚丙烯5份、聚乙烯5份、马来酸酐接枝聚乙烯1份、甘油7份。
上述氨纶包芯纱中芯层纱线的牵伸倍数为5倍，上述氨纶包芯纱的包覆度为660圈/m。
上述抗皱仿真丝面料的加工工艺，包括以下步骤：
将抗皱PET纤维长丝和氨纶包芯纱通过纺纱工序加工成复合丝，与真丝纱线采用添纱工艺织造，制得面料坯布后，再经机上剖幅打卷整理、精炼、水洗和烘干定型，制得抗皱仿真丝面料。
试验例
为了确定本发明制备的抗皱仿真丝面料的性能，现对实施例1～4制备的抗皱仿真丝面料分别进行性能测试：
测试结果如表1所示：
表1
Figure BDA0003154938850000071
以上所述仅为本发明的优选实施例而已，并不用于限制本发明，对于本领域的技术人员来说，本发明实施例可以有各种更改和变化。凡在本发明的精神和原则之内，所作的任何修改、等同替换、改进等，均应包含在本发明的保护范围之内。

Claims (10)

1.一种抗皱仿真丝面料，其特征在于，所述面料以抗皱PET纤维长丝和氨纶包芯纱的复合丝、真丝纱线为原料，所述抗皱PET纤维长丝和氨纶包芯纱的复合丝位于面料的外侧，真丝纱线位于面料的内侧，所述抗皱PET纤维长丝和氨纶包芯纱的复合丝完全覆盖真丝纱线。
2.根据权利要求1所述的抗皱仿真丝面料，其特征在于，所述抗皱PET纤维长丝和氨纶包芯纱的复合丝中抗皱PET纤维长丝与氨纶包芯纱的质量比为2～4:1～3。
3.根据权利要求1所述的抗皱仿真丝面料，其特征在于，所述抗皱PET纤维长丝的制备包括以下步骤：将PET切片和粘胶纤维分别放入烘箱中干燥预处理；将干燥后的PET切片和粘胶纤维在反应釜中混合，熔融后得到混合浆料；将混合浆料与抗皱整理液混合，在反应釜中共混、熔融，再通过双螺杆挤出机的三叶型喷丝孔挤压得到PET纤维，然后经碱减量处理，烘干后制得抗皱PET纤维长丝。
4.根据权利要求3所述的抗皱仿真丝面料，其特征在于，所述PET切片和粘胶纤维的质量比为2～5:1。
5.根据权利要求3所述的抗皱仿真丝面料，其特征在于，所述抗皱整理液包括以下重量份的原料：柠檬酸30份～70份、蜜胺树脂5份～10份、氯化镁3份～5份、氢氧化钠2份～4份。
6.根据权利要求1所述的抗皱仿真丝面料，其特征在于，所述氨纶包芯纱包括芯层纱线和外层纱线，外层纱线包覆卷绕于芯层纱线外侧，所述芯层纱线由氨纶丝及丝光棉纤维组成，所述氨纶包芯纱中氨纶丝的含量≤15％；所述外层纱线为CoolMax长丝，所述CoolMax长丝的细度为70dtex～85dtex。
7.根据权利要求6所述的抗皱仿真丝面料，其特征在于，所述氨纶包芯纱的制备方法包括以下步骤：将氨纶丝与光棉纤维进行加捻卷曲制成芯层纱线，控制芯层纱线的黏度为400捻/m～800捻/m，并将纱线置于整经架中，经浆纱机和烘干机对芯层纱线进行上浆处理，将浆料包覆后的芯层纱线经包芯纱装置与CoolMax长丝进行卷绕包覆。
8.根据权利要求6所述的抗皱仿真丝面料，其特征在于，所述芯层纱线进行上浆处理过程中，浆纱机中的上浆浆料包括以下重量份的原料：磷酸酯淀粉浆25份～50份、柠檬酸3份～5份、1,2,3,4-丁烷四羧酸2份～5份、精氨酸1份～3份、聚丙烯3份～5份、聚乙烯3份～5份、马来酸酐接枝聚乙烯0.5份～1份、甘油5份～7份。
9.根据权利要求6所述的抗皱仿真丝面料，其特征在于，所述氨纶包芯纱中芯层纱线的牵伸倍数为3倍～5倍，所述氨纶包芯纱的包覆度为600圈/m～660圈/m。
10.根据权利要求1～9任意一项所述的抗皱仿真丝面料的加工工艺，其特征在于，包括以下步骤：将抗皱PET纤维长丝和氨纶包芯纱通过纺纱工序加工成复合丝，与真丝纱线采用添纱工艺织造，制得面料坯布后，再经机上剖幅打卷整理、精炼、水洗和烘干定型，制得抗皱仿真丝面料。
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