Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide a skin beautifying composition with whitening and moisturizing effects;
the second purpose of the invention is to provide a method for preparing the skin cosmetic composition into a proper cosmetic preparation;
the above object of the present invention is achieved by the following technical solutions:
a cosmetic composition with whitening and moisturizing effects comprises an active ingredient and an auxiliary material or a carrier acceptable by a cosmetic preparation, wherein the active ingredient comprises safe and effective amounts of phloretin and sophoricoside.
Phloretin (Phloretin) is a natural dihydrochalcone compound separated from root bark, fruit and leaves of apple trees. Pharmacological research shows that phloretin and its derivatives have antiviral, antibacterial, antitumor, antiinflammatory and estrogen-like effects. The phloretin in the invention is preferably prepared by extracting lithocarpus litseifolius with water, organic solvent or supercritical CO 2 Extracting phlorizin, and performing enzymolysis or chemical decomposition to obtain liquid or solid phlorizinAnd (3) preparing.
Sophoricoside (Sophorricoside), also known as Sophoricoside, sophoroside, and the like, is an important index component in sophora fruits, has various activities of increasing blood sugar, resisting fertility, coagulating blood, promoting lymphocyte transformation, resisting tumors, and the like, and has extremely high medicinal value.
Experiments show that the phloretin and sophoricoside are compounded, so that the skin beautifying effect is remarkable, the tyrosinase activity can be effectively inhibited under the synergistic effect particularly in the aspect of skin whitening, the dropping of melanin-containing keratinocytes is promoted, the spot color is lightened, and the skin color is brightened.
For those skilled in the art, the phloretin and sophoricoside can be used as active ingredients according to conventional preparation methods in the cosmetic field, and can be added with auxiliary materials or carriers acceptable in the cosmetic preparation field to prepare various cosmetic preparations, such as various conventional cosmetic preparations such as moisturizing essence, facial milk, facial cream, facial mask and the like, preferably moisturizing essence.
The adjuvant or carrier is readily determined by one of skill or knowledge in the art, e.g., the carrier or adjuvant may be a continuous oil phase and a discontinuous aqueous phase; for example, it may be any one or more of silicone oil, non-silicone oil, wetting agent, solubilizer, auxiliary acid, polyol ester, or softener.
As a preferred embodiment of the invention, the adjuvant or carrier consists of 1, 3-butanediol, glycerol, panthenol, carbomer 940, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, disodium EDTA, 1, 2-pentanediol, triethanolamine, lavender hydrosol and water.
As a more preferred embodiment of the present invention, the components are preferably used in amounts of: 0.5-2% of phloretin, 0.5-2% of sophoricoside, 3-8% of 1, 3-butanediol, 3-8% of glycerol, 0.1-1% of panthenol, 9400.1-1% of carbomer, 1-2% of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, 0.01-0.1% of EDTA disodium, 0.5-5% of 1, 2-pentanediol, 0.1-1% of triethanolamine, 3-10% of lavender hydrosol and the balance of water.
Most preferably, the components are used in the following amounts: phloretin 0.5%, sophoricoside 0.5%, 1, 3-butanediol 5%, glycerol 5%, panthenol 0.3%, carbomer 9400.5%, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 1.2%, EDTA disodium 0.05%, 1, 2-pentanediol 1%, triethanolamine 0.5%, lavender hydrosol 10%, and the balance of water.
Further, the invention provides a preparation method for preparing the cosmetic composition into whitening and moisturizing essence, and the preparation method comprises the following steps:
(1) adding water, 1, 3-butanediol, glycerol, carbomer 940, phloretin and sophoricoside into water phase pot, heating, stirring, and dispersing to obtain phase A;
(2) adding panthenol, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, EDTA disodium and 1, 2-pentanediol into an emulsifying pot, and heating and stirring until the panthenol, the PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, the EDTA disodium and the 1, 2-pentanediol are completely dissolved to be used as a phase B;
(3) pumping the phase A into an emulsifying pot, homogenizing, stirring, adding triethanolamine and Lavender hydrosol when cooling, stirring and dissolving completely;
(4) cooling again and discharging to obtain the product.
In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the heating and stirring in step (1) or step (2) is performed by heating to 75 to 80 ℃.
In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the homogenization time in step (3) is preferably 3-8min, most preferably 5 min.
In a preferred embodiment of the invention, triethanolamine and lavender hydrosol are added when the temperature in the step (3) is reduced to 40-45 ℃;
in a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the temperature reduction in step (4) is preferably carried out to a temperature of 38 ℃.
The whitening and moisturizing essence provided by the invention does not contain chemical essence, and the fragrance of the essence is adjusted by using natural lavender hydrosol, wherein the lavender hydrosol is prepared by performing water extraction, organic solvent extraction or supercritical CO extraction on lavender 2 Extracting to obtain the final product.
According to the results of physicochemical property evaluation tests, the whitening and moisturizing essence containing the phloretin has no layering phenomenon after centrifugal treatment and high-temperature and low-temperature storage, has good cold resistance and heat resistance, and can keep the pH value between 5 and 6 for a long time, so that the whitening and moisturizing essence containing the phloretin has excellent physicochemical properties.
According to sensory evaluation test results, the whitening and moisturizing essence containing phloretin has good appearance, fragrance, absorption effect, moisturizing effect and viscosity, and particularly has more excellent moisturizing effect compared with a comparative product.
The evaluation result of the moisturizing effect proves that the whitening and moisturizing essence containing phloretin has an exact moisturizing effect.
The whitening effect evaluation test result proves that the phloretin-containing whitening and moisturizing essence product has an inhibition rate of 92.3% on tyrosinase, has an exact whitening effect, and proves that the phloretin and sophoricoside are compounded to have an obvious effect of synergistically inhibiting tyrosinase, so that the skin can be moistened, smooth and moisturized, whitened and black-removed.
The term "safe and effective amount" as used herein means an amount which significantly induces a positive improvement under the conditions of use, but which is not so high as to prevent undue side effects (such as significant skin irritation or sensitization), within the scope of normal judgment of the skilled artisan.
Detailed Description
The invention is further described below in conjunction with specific embodiments, the advantages and features of which will become apparent from the description. These examples are illustrative only and do not limit the scope of the present invention in any way. It will be understood by those skilled in the art that various changes in form and details may be made therein without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention, and that such changes and modifications may be within the scope of the invention.
Example 1 preparation of whitening and moisturizing essence
1. Formulation composition
Phloretin 0.5%, sophoricoside 0.5%, 1, 3-butanediol 5%, glycerol 5%, panthenol 0.3%, carbomer 9400.5%, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 1.2%, EDTA disodium 0.05%, 1, 2-pentanediol 1%, triethanolamine 0.5%, lavender hydrosol 10%, and the balance of water.
2. Preparation method
(1) Adding water, 1, 3-butanediol, glycerol, carbomer 940, phloretin and sophoricoside into water phase pot, heating and stirring to 78 deg.C, stirring and dispersing uniformly to obtain phase A;
(2) adding panthenol, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, disodium EDTA, and 1, 2-pentanediol into an emulsifying pot, heating and stirring to 78 deg.C, and stirring to dissolve completely to obtain phase B;
(3) pumping the phase A into an emulsifying pot, homogenizing for 5min, starting cooling circulating water, stirring and cooling;
(4) cooling to 42 deg.C, adding triethanolamine and Lavender hydrosol, stirring to dissolve completely, cooling to 38 deg.C, sampling, inspecting, and discharging.
Example 2 preparation of whitening and moisturizing essence
1. Formulation composition
Phloretin 0.8%, sophoricoside 0.8%, 1, 3-butanediol 3%, glycerol 3%, panthenol 0.1%, carbomer 9400.1%, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 1%, EDTA disodium 0.01%, 1, 2-pentanediol 0.5%, triethanolamine 0.1%, lavender hydrosol 3%, and the balance of water.
2. Preparation method
(1) Adding water, 1, 3-butanediol, glycerol, carbomer 940, phloretin and sophoricoside into water phase pot, heating and stirring to 75 deg.C, stirring and dispersing uniformly to obtain phase A;
(2) adding panthenol, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, disodium EDTA, and 1, 2-pentanediol into an emulsifying pot, heating and stirring to 75 deg.C, and stirring to dissolve completely to obtain phase B;
(3) pumping the phase A into an emulsifying pot, homogenizing for 5min, starting cooling circulating water, stirring and cooling;
(4) cooling to 40 deg.C, adding triethanolamine and Lavender hydrosol, stirring to dissolve completely, cooling to 38 deg.C, sampling, inspecting, and discharging.
Example 3 preparation of whitening and moisturizing essence
1. Formulation composition
Phloretin 2%, sophoricoside 2%, 1, 3-butanediol 8%, glycerol 8%, panthenol 1%, carbomer 9401%, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 2%, EDTA disodium 0.1%, 1, 2-pentanediol 5%, triethanolamine 1%, lavender hydrosol 6%, and the balance of water.
2. Preparation method
(1) Adding water, 1, 3-butanediol, glycerol, carbomer 940, phloretin and sophoricoside into water phase pot, heating and stirring to 80 deg.C, stirring and dispersing uniformly to obtain phase A;
(2) adding panthenol, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, disodium EDTA and 1, 2-pentanediol into an emulsifying pot, heating and stirring to 80 ℃, and stirring until the panthenol is completely dissolved to be used as a phase B;
(3) pumping the phase A into an emulsifying pot, homogenizing for 5min, starting circulating cooling water, stirring and cooling;
(4) cooling to 45 deg.C, adding triethanolamine and Lavender hydrosol, stirring to dissolve completely, cooling to 38 deg.C, sampling, inspecting, and discharging.
Comparative example 1 preparation of whitening and moisturizing essence
The comparative example is different from the example 1 only in that the raw materials of the whitening and moisturizing essence do not contain phloretin and sophoricoside; the other components and the preparation method are exactly the same as those in example 1.
Comparative example 2 preparation of whitening and moisturizing essence
The comparative example is different from the example 1 only in that the whitening and moisturizing essence raw material does not contain sophoricoside, and the addition amount of phloretin is 1%; the other components and the preparation method are exactly the same as those in example 1.
Comparative example 3 preparation of whitening and moisturizing essence
The comparative example is different from the example 1 only in that the raw materials of the whitening and moisturizing essence do not contain phloretin, and the addition amount of the sophoricoside is 1%; the other components and the preparation method are exactly the same as those in example 1.
Test example 1 physicochemical evaluation test of whitening and moisturizing essence containing phloretin
The cold resistance, heat resistance, pH value and relative density of the products of the examples and the comparative example 3 are tested according to the skin care emulsion national standard GB/T29665-2013, and the results of physicochemical evaluation are shown in Table 1.
TABLE 1 results of physical and chemical evaluation tests
From the results of the physicochemical evaluations in table 1, it can be seen that: the whitening and moisturizing essence containing the phloretin provided by the invention has the advantages that the skin whitening and moisturizing essence is excellent in physicochemical properties because the skin whitening and moisturizing essence is free from layering after being subjected to centrifugal treatment and stored at high temperature and low temperature, is good in cold resistance and heat resistance, and can keep the pH value between 5 and 6 for a long time.
Test example 2 sensory evaluation test of whitening and moisturizing essence containing phloretin
The sensory evaluation was carried out according to the sensory evaluation table on the samples to be evaluated (example 1 and comparative examples 1 to 3) by giving the samples to volunteers as specified. The volunteers fill in corresponding feeling evaluation tables according to the feelings during and after use, all feelings are represented by numbers, the trial process adopts a double-blind method, namely, each volunteer does not know the real information of the sample and the feelings of other volunteers, and the research process is carried out independently. All data are summarized and subjected to statistical analysis to obtain the final evaluation of the tested sample.
The volunteer requires: the number of people is 12, the age is 20-50 years old, healthy people and the nature is not limited.
Appearance: whether the sample is a homogeneous liquid, free of impurities.
Fragrance: whether the fragrance of the sample is proper or not and whether the fragrance is pleasant or not.
Absorption effect: whether the oil, active ingredients and the like in the sample are easy to permeate into the skin during the use process.
Moistening effect: whether the sample has moist feeling to the skin.
Viscosity: consistency of the sample and viscosity feel after use.
The evaluation of each item was carried out with a scoring system: preferably 9 to 10 minutes; preferably 7 to 8 minutes; generally 5 to 6 points; worse 3-4 points; very poor 1-2 points.
The sensory evaluation results are shown in table 2:
TABLE 2 sensory evaluation test results
Group of
|
Appearance of the product
|
Fragrance
|
Absorption effect
|
Moistening effect
|
Consistency of viscosity
|
Example 1
|
9.08
|
8.75
|
8.83
|
9.16
|
8.75
|
Comparative example 1
|
8.91
|
8.58
|
8.75
|
8.83
|
8.16
|
Comparative example 2
|
8.83
|
8.67
|
8.41
|
9.08
|
8.41
|
Comparative example 3
|
9.00
|
8.83
|
8.58
|
8.67
|
8.08 |
As can be seen from the sensory evaluation results of table 2: the appearance, fragrance, absorption effect, moisturizing effect and viscosity of example 1 and comparative examples 1 to 3 were all good and did not differ much. The fragrance is mainly influenced by the lavender hydrolat, and the hydrolat addition amounts of different formulas are consistent, so that the fragrance is not greatly different. The absorption effect is mainly affected by the solvent and the humectant, and the effect of the whitening functional ingredient is less affected, while the basic formula in example 1 and comparative examples 1-3 is kept unchanged, so that the absorption effect is not greatly different. The example 1 and the comparative example 2 added with phloretin have slightly better moisturizing effect because the phloretin has very strong moisturizing effect and can absorb water 4-5 times of the weight of the phloretin.
Test example 3 evaluation test of moisturizing effect of phloretin-containing whitening and moisturizing essence
A sample to be tested: whitening and moisturizing essence prepared in example 1 and comparative examples 1 to 3.
Testing an instrument: the skin tester specially used for testing the moisture content, oil content and elasticity of the skin has the scoring range of 0-100 for each index, wherein the normal range of the moisture content of the cheek is 32-47, the oil content is 37-49 and the elasticity is 53-70.
The test method comprises the following steps: applying 0.5ml sample to the inner part of arm 2 times a day in the morning and evening with the applying area of 3 × 3cm 2 Skin moisture, oil and elasticity were tested every 3 hours, during which no additional make-up of other brands could be used.
The water content, oil content and elastic effect evaluation results are shown in Table 3.
TABLE 3 evaluation test results of Water content, oil content and elasticity Effect of test samples
According to the moisturizing effect evaluation in table 3, the whitening and moisturizing essence containing phloretin prepared by the invention has an exact moisturizing effect.
Test example 4 whitening effect evaluation test of whitening and moisturizing essence containing phloretin
Tyrosinase activity inhibition test
1 test sample
Whitening and moisturizing essence prepared in example 1 and comparative examples 1 to 3.
2 test method
According to the T/SHRH 015-2018 cosmetic-tyrosinase activity inhibition experimental method published by the Shanghai Committee for the industry of daily chemicals.
3 results of the test
The results of the tyrosinase inhibition assay for the experimental and comparative groups are shown in table 4:
TABLE 4 determination of tyrosinase inhibition efficiency of test samples
Group of
|
Example 1
|
Comparative example 1
|
Comparative example 2
|
Comparative example 3
|
Tyrosinase inhibition (%)
|
92.3
|
14.6
|
85.4
|
43.2 |
Second, testing the degree of whiteness of skin
1 test method
A sample to be tested: whitening and moisturizing essence prepared in example 1 and comparative examples 1 to 3.
Testing an instrument: the skin tester is specially used for testing the skin whiteness, and the index score range is 0-100.
The test method comprises the following steps: applying 0.5ml sample to the inner part of arm 2 times a day in the morning and evening with the applying area of 3 × 3cm 2 Every 6 days, the degree of whiteness of the skin was tested, during which no additional use of other brands of cosmetics was possible.
2 results of the test
The test results are shown in Table 5.
TABLE 5 test results of skin whiteness before and after use of test samples
Group of
|
Before use
|
6d
|
12d
|
18d
|
24d
|
30d
|
Example 1
|
42.8
|
48.1
|
51.3
|
56.7
|
60.2
|
64.6
|
Comparative example 1
|
41.6
|
41.8
|
42.1
|
42.3
|
42.6
|
42.8
|
Comparative example 2
|
40.1
|
44.1
|
47.4
|
50.9
|
52.8
|
55.4
|
Comparative example 3
|
42.7
|
43.9
|
44.7
|
45.9
|
46.6
|
47.1 |
The results of the whitening effect evaluation according to table 5 are shown: the prepared whitening and moisturizing essence containing the phloretin has an exact whitening effect, and the phloretin and sophoricoside are compounded to have an obvious effect of synergistically inhibiting tyrosinase, so that the skin can be made to be elastic, smooth and moist, and whiten and black.