CN112553760A - 一种多功能莫代尔/棉混纺针织面料及其加工工艺 - Google Patents

一种多功能莫代尔/棉混纺针织面料及其加工工艺 Download PDF

Info

Publication number
CN112553760A
CN112553760A CN202011370166.4A CN202011370166A CN112553760A CN 112553760 A CN112553760 A CN 112553760A CN 202011370166 A CN202011370166 A CN 202011370166A CN 112553760 A CN112553760 A CN 112553760A
Authority
CN
China
Prior art keywords
modal
temperature
multifunctional
cotton blended
knitted fabric
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
CN202011370166.4A
Other languages
English (en)
Other versions
CN112553760B (zh
Inventor
张鑫
陈慧
汪春吉
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Fujian Fynex Textile Science & Technology Co ltd
Original Assignee
Fujian Fynex Textile Science & Technology Co ltd
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Fujian Fynex Textile Science & Technology Co ltd filed Critical Fujian Fynex Textile Science & Technology Co ltd
Priority to CN202011370166.4A priority Critical patent/CN112553760B/zh
Publication of CN112553760A publication Critical patent/CN112553760A/zh
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of CN112553760B publication Critical patent/CN112553760B/zh
Active legal-status Critical Current
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical

Links

Images

Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
    • D02G3/04—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/32—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
    • D02G3/328—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic containing elastane
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/18—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials elastic threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C7/00—Heating or cooling textile fabrics
    • D06C7/02—Setting
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C9/00—Singeing
    • D06C9/02—Singeing by flame
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06L—DRY-CLEANING, WASHING OR BLEACHING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR MADE-UP FIBROUS GOODS; BLEACHING LEATHER OR FURS
    • D06L4/00—Bleaching fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods; Bleaching leather or furs
    • D06L4/10—Bleaching fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods; Bleaching leather or furs using agents which develop oxygen
    • D06L4/13—Bleaching fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods; Bleaching leather or furs using agents which develop oxygen using inorganic agents
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
    • D06M15/37—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M15/643—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds containing silicon in the main chain
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M16/00—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M16/00—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic
    • D06M16/003—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic with enzymes or microorganisms
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/0032—Determining dye recipes and dyeing parameters; Colour matching or monitoring
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/38—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using reactive dyes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
    • D06P1/445—Use of auxiliary substances before, during or after dyeing or printing
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
    • D06P1/673—Inorganic compounds
    • D06P1/67333—Salts or hydroxides
    • D06P1/6735—Salts or hydroxides of alkaline or alkaline-earth metals with anions different from those provided for in D06P1/67341
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/82—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres
    • D06P3/8204—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P5/00—Other features in dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form
    • D06P5/02—After-treatment
    • D06P5/10—After-treatment with compounds containing metal
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
    • D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
    • D06M2101/04—Vegetal fibres
    • D06M2101/06—Vegetal fibres cellulosic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
    • D06M2101/16—Synthetic fibres, other than mineral fibres
    • D06M2101/30—Synthetic polymers consisting of macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2200/00—Functionality of the treatment composition and/or properties imparted to the textile material
    • D06M2200/35—Abrasion, pilling or fibrillation resistance
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2200/00—Functionality of the treatment composition and/or properties imparted to the textile material
    • D06M2200/50—Modified hand or grip properties; Softening compositions
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/02—Cotton
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/20—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/10—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyurethanes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
    • D10B2401/02—Moisture-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/022—Moisture-responsive characteristics hydrophylic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
    • D10B2401/13—Physical properties anti-allergenic or anti-bacterial
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
    • D10B2401/16—Physical properties antistatic; conductive

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Microbiology (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Biochemistry (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
  • General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Coloring (AREA)

Abstract

本发明涉及一种多功能莫代尔/棉混纺针织面料及其加工工艺，采用莫代尔/棉混纺纱为原料，面料巧妙的结合了两种纤维的特性，具有优异的吸湿透气性、柔软舒适等功能，再经优化的染整工艺，包括低温低碱前处理煮漂工艺、M/C活性染料同浴上色不均匀工艺技术、M/C毛羽处理工艺技术、亲水奥代尔柔软整理技术、M/C后整理规格控制及功能整理工艺技术等生产关键工艺技术。在充分利用棉、莫代尔各自的特点的基础上，再通过抗菌、吸湿排汗、亲水奥代尔手感整理，赋予面料吸湿透气性好、抗静电、柔软滑爽、抗菌除臭、抗起毛起球等特点。

Description

一种多功能莫代尔/棉混纺针织面料及其加工工艺
技术领域
本发明属于面料加工技术领域，具体涉及一种多功能莫代尔/棉混纺针织面料及其加工工艺。
背景技术
莫代尔是一种新型再生纤维素纤维，它既有棉的舒适性，又有粘胶纤维的悬垂性和柔和的光泽，吸湿性好，易于染色，不易起静电，有较好的可纺性能。含氨纶的莫代尔/棉混纺织物，具有良好的光泽和悬垂感，柔软舒适，色泽鲜艳，同时具有良好的弹性，适合作高档面料。但是由于莫代尔和棉两种纤维对染料上色率的差异性，导致染色后布面颜色不均匀，出现白星、麻灰效果。另外，对于需要做奥代尔手感则对布面毛头效果要求非常严格，而莫代尔难以抛光，按照传统加工工艺制得的面料存在有易擦伤起毛和强力不佳等缺陷。
发明内容
鉴于现有技术的不足，本发明所要解决的技术问题是提供一种多功能莫代尔/棉混纺针织面料，它能够在保持好莫代尔/棉纤维的吸湿抗静电性能前提下赋予面料良好的抗菌除臭、亲水奥代尔手感并增强强力和抗起球性能。
为解决上述技术问题，本发明采用的技术方案是：
一种多功能莫代尔/棉混纺针织面料的加工工艺，包括如下步骤：
S1、织造：采用莫代尔/棉混纺纱与氨纶纱按用纱量比为95﹕5纬编织造成坯布；
S2、初定：对步骤S1的坯布先松布摆放8小时以上再进行蒸胚定型；
S3、烧毛：利用布身与绒毛升温速率不同的原理，达到只烧去坯布正反面毛羽达4级；
S4、前处理：将步骤S3烧毛后的坯布入缸依次进行低温低碱煮漂、溢流洗水、过酸中和以及除氧，充分去除洗净木质素、油份、蜡质及沾附的灰份杂质；
S5、高温匀染：将步骤S4前处理后的坯布进行高温匀染，具体为：加水升温至50℃-55℃，在15min-20min内加入活性染料sumifix HF和少量中性抛光酶后运行15min-20min，再分3次均量加入元明粉后运行5min-8min，然后升温至80℃-82℃，保温染色20min-25min后降温至60℃-62℃运行5min-8min，再分两次加入纯碱、分两次加入固色碱，然后运行50min-70min，排液；
S6、缸内抗菌处理：加入抗菌剂进行缸内抗菌处理15min-20min，温度50℃-55℃；
S7、脱水、烘干；
S8、定型整理：将步骤S7烘干后的面料放入定型机中进行定型处理，定型液中包含2％-5％吸湿排汗剂和12％-15％亲水硅油。
优选地，所述莫代尔/面混纺纱为JM/C40S.40/60，所述氨纶为20D，坯布为平针组织。
优选地，所述步骤S2的蒸胚定型工艺为温度为195℃-200℃，车速为25m/min-30m/min，上下超喂45％/6％。
优选地，所述步骤S3的烧毛工艺为机速为80m/min-100m/min，火力为18立方米每小时-20立方米每小时。
优选地，所述步骤S4前处理工艺具体为：坯布入缸后进45℃-50℃温水，加入1g/l-1.5g/l低泡精练除油剂SF-2和1g/l-1.5g/l低温炼漂剂TF-189，保温运行4min-6min后加入2g/l-3g/l精炼酶并保温运行8min-12min，然后升温至68℃-72℃，加入6g/l-8g/l双氧水和1g/l-1.5g/l精炼剂TF-129K，保温运行8min-12min后升温至82-87℃并保温运行25min-35min，然后降温至75℃-80℃，溢流水洗，排液；加45-50℃温水，保温运行5min-9min，排液；加45℃-50℃温水，加入中和酸、测pH至5.5-6.5，运行5min-9min后，加入除氧酶，运行10min-14min，排液。
优选地，所述步骤S6中抗菌剂的用量以坯布重量计的5％-8％。
优选地，所述步骤S7具体为将抗菌处理后的坯布取出通过脱水机脱水后，再通过松式烘干机烘干，烘干温度为130℃-135℃。
优选地，所述步骤S8的定型工艺为定型温度175℃-180℃，车速15m/min-20m/min，上下超喂45％/2％，一浸一轧，轧余率50％-60％，压力0.25-0.4MPa，定型后克重150g/m2-160g/m2。
本发明还提供一种由上述加工工艺制成的多功能莫代尔/棉混纺针织面料。
与现有技术相比，本发明具有以下有益效果：
本发明面料采用莫代尔/棉混纺纱为原料，面料巧妙的结合了两种纤维的特性，具有优异的吸湿透气性、柔软舒适等功能，再经优化的染整工艺，包括低温低碱前处理煮漂工艺、M/C活性染料同浴上色不均匀工艺技术、M/C毛羽处理工艺技术、亲水奥代尔柔软整理技术、M/C后整理规格控制及功能整理工艺技术等生产关键工艺技术。在充分利用棉、莫代尔各自的特点的基础上，再通过抗菌、吸湿排汗、亲水奥代尔手感整理，赋予面料吸湿透气性好、抗静电、柔软滑爽、抗菌除臭、抗起毛起球等特点。
附图说明
图1为本发明前处理工艺曲线图。
图2为本发明高温匀染工艺曲线图。
图3为对比例3的染色工艺曲线图。
具体实施方式
实施例1
本实施例提供一种多功能莫代尔/棉混纺针织面料的加工工艺，包括如下步骤：
S1、织造：采用莫代尔/棉混纺纱JM/C40S.40/60与氨纶纱20D通过迈耶单面机按用纱量比为95﹕5纬编织造成平针组织坯布，针数28，M/C混纺纱选用紧密赛罗纺。
S2、初定：对步骤S1的坯布先松布摆放8小时以上，使内应力得到释放，再进一步通过蒸胚定型改善坯布克重不稳定和确保缩水，蒸胚定型工艺为温度为195℃，车速为30m/min，上下超喂45％/6％。
S3、烧毛：利用布身与绒毛升温速率不同的原理，通过气体烧毛机采用对烧方式达到只烧去坯布正反面毛羽达4级再落缸，烧毛工艺为机速为100m/min，火力为18立方米每小时。
S4、前处理：将步骤S3烧毛后的坯布入缸依次进行低温低碱煮漂、溢流洗水、过酸中和以及除氧，充分去除洗净木质素、油份、蜡质及沾附的灰份杂质，同时减少对纤维的损伤，保证面料的强力。具体的：坯布入缸后进50℃温水，加入1g/l低泡精练除油剂SF-2和1g/l低温炼漂剂TF-189，保温运行5min后加入2g/l精炼酶并保温运行10min，然后升温至70℃，加入6g/l双氧水和1g/l精炼剂TF-129K，保温运行10min后升温至85℃并保温运行30min，然后降温至80℃，溢流水洗，排液；加50℃温水，保温运行7min，排液；加50℃温水，加入中和酸、测pH至5.5-6.5，运行5min后，加入除氧酶，运行12min，排液。
S5、高温匀染：将步骤S4前处理后的坯布进行高温匀染成紫色，确保活性染料在两种纤维表面上色均匀，避免白星、色花、布面不均等布面问题，提高产品质量，具体为：加水升温至55℃，在20min内加入活性染料sumifix HF和少量中性抛光酶后运行15min，再分3次均量加入元明粉后运行5min，然后升温至80℃，保温染色20min后降温至60℃运行5min，再分两次加入纯碱、分两次加入固色碱，然后运行60min，排液。抛光酶具体使用诺维信公司的抛光染色一浴中性酶59000，活性染料sumifix HF及中性抛光酶、元明粉、纯碱的用量具体参见表1。
S6、缸内抗菌处理：加入抗菌剂进行缸内抗菌处理20min，温度50℃，抗菌剂选用抗菌剂930，其用量以坯布重量计的6％。
S7、脱水、烘干：将抗菌处理后的坯布取出通过脱水机脱水后，再通过松式烘干机烘干，烘干温度为130℃-135℃。抗菌整理后先脱水烘干再做亲水整理，赋于面料同时具有抗菌防臭、吸湿排汗、亲水奥代尔等特殊功能，避免亲水硅油的阳离子与抗菌剂的阴离子反应产生沉淀而影响抗菌性能与亲水奥代尔手感。
S8、定型整理：将步骤S7烘干后的面料放入定型机中进行定型处理，定型液中包含2％吸湿排汗剂QH-13和12％亲水硅油T718，定型温度175℃，车速20m/min，上下超喂45％/2％，一浸一轧，轧余率55％，压力0.3MPa，定型后克重155g/m2。
实施例2
本实施例提供一种多功能莫代尔/棉混纺针织面料的加工工艺，包括如下步骤：
S1、织造：采用莫代尔/棉混纺纱JM/C40S.40/60与氨纶纱20D通过迈耶单面机按用纱量比为95﹕5纬编织造成平针组织坯布，针数28，M/C混纺纱选用紧密赛罗纺。
S2、初定：对步骤S1的坯布先松布摆放8小时以上，使内应力得到释放，再进一步通过蒸胚定型改善坯布克重不稳定和确保缩水，蒸胚定型工艺为温度为200℃，车速为25m/min，上下超喂45％/6％。
S3、烧毛：利用布身与绒毛升温速率不同的原理，通过气体烧毛机采用对烧方式达到只烧去坯布正反面毛羽达4级再落缸，烧毛工艺为机速为80m/min，火力为20立方米每小时。
S4、前处理：将步骤S3烧毛后的坯布入缸依次进行低温低碱煮漂、溢流洗水、过酸中和以及除氧，充分去除洗净木质素、油份、蜡质及沾附的灰份杂质，同时减少对纤维的损伤，保证面料的强力。具体的：坯布入缸后进45℃温水，加入1.5g/l低泡精练除油剂SF-2和1.5g/l低温炼漂剂TF-189，保温运行4min后加入3g/l精炼酶并保温运行8min，然后升温至68℃，加入8g/l双氧水和1.5g/l精炼剂TF-129K，保温运行8min后升温至82℃并保温运行35min，然后降温至75℃，溢流水洗，排液；加45温水，保温运行9min，排液；加45℃温水，加入中和酸、测pH至5.5-6.5，运行9min后，加入除氧酶，运行10min，排液。
S5、高温匀染：将步骤S4前处理后的坯布进行高温匀染成棕色，确保活性染料在两种纤维表面上色均匀，避免白星、色花、布面不均等布面问题，提高产品质量，具体为：加水升温至52℃，在18min内加入活性染料sumifix HF和少量中性抛光酶后运行20min，再分3次均量加入元明粉后运行6min，然后升温至80℃，保温染色22min后降温至60℃运行6min，再分两次加入纯碱、分两次加入固色碱，然后运行70min，排液。抛光酶具体使用诺维信公司的抛光染色一浴中性酶59000，活性染料sumifix HF及中性抛光酶、元明粉、纯碱的用量具体参见表1。
S6、缸内抗菌处理：加入抗菌剂进行缸内抗菌处理15min，温度55℃，抗菌剂选用抗菌剂930，其用量以坯布重量计的8％。
S7、脱水、烘干：将抗菌处理后的坯布取出通过脱水机脱水后，再通过松式烘干机烘干，烘干温度为130℃-135℃。抗菌整理后先脱水烘干再做亲水整理，赋于面料同时具有抗菌防臭、吸湿排汗、亲水奥代尔等特殊功能，避免亲水硅油的阳离子与抗菌剂的阴离子反应产生沉淀而影响抗菌性能与亲水奥代尔手感。
S8、定型整理：将步骤S7烘干后的面料放入定型机中进行定型处理，定型液中包含3％吸湿排汗剂QH-13和15％亲水硅油T718，定型温度180℃，车速15m/min，上下超喂45％/2％，一浸一轧，轧余率50％，压力0.4MPa，定型后克重160g/m2。
实施例3
本实施例提供一种多功能莫代尔/棉混纺针织面料的加工工艺，包括如下步骤：
S1、织造：采用莫代尔/棉混纺纱JM/C40S.40/60与氨纶纱20D通过迈耶单面机按用纱量比为95﹕5纬编织造成平针组织坯布，针数28，M/C混纺纱选用紧密赛罗纺。
S2、初定：对步骤S1的坯布先松布摆放8小时以上，使内应力得到释放，再进一步通过蒸胚定型改善坯布克重不稳定和确保缩水，蒸胚定型工艺为温度为198℃，车速为258m/min，上下超喂45％/6％。
S3、烧毛：利用布身与绒毛升温速率不同的原理，通过气体烧毛机采用对烧方式达到只烧去坯布正反面毛羽达4级再落缸，烧毛工艺为机速为90m/min，火力为18立方米每小时。
S4、前处理：将步骤S3烧毛后的坯布入缸依次进行低温低碱煮漂、溢流洗水、过酸中和以及除氧，充分去除洗净木质素、油份、蜡质及沾附的灰份杂质，同时减少对纤维的损伤，保证面料的强力。具体的：坯布入缸后进50℃温水，加入1.2g/l低泡精练除油剂SF-2和1.2g/l低温炼漂剂TF-189，保温运行4min后加入2g/l精炼酶并保温运行12min，然后升温至72℃，加入6g/l双氧水和1g/l精炼剂TF-129K，保温运行12min后升温至87℃并保温运行25min，然后降温至80℃，溢流水洗，排液；加50℃温水，保温运行5min，排液；加50℃温水，加入中和酸、测pH至5.5-6.5，运行5min后，加入除氧酶，运行14min，排液。
S5、高温匀染：将步骤S4前处理后的坯布进行高温匀染成粉红色，确保活性染料在两种纤维表面上色均匀，避免白星、色花、布面不均等布面问题，提高产品质量，具体为：加水升温至50℃，在15min内加入活性染料sumifix HF和少量中性抛光酶后运行20min，再分3次均量加入元明粉后运行8min，然后升温至82℃，保温染色20min后降温至62℃运行8min，再分两次加入纯碱、分两次加入固色碱，然后运行50min，排液。抛光酶具体使用诺维信公司的抛光染色一浴中性酶59000，活性染料sumifix HF及中性抛光酶、元明粉、纯碱的用量具体参见表1。
S6、缸内抗菌处理：加入抗菌剂进行缸内抗菌处理20min，温度52℃，抗菌剂选用抗菌剂930，其用量以坯布重量计的5％。
S7、脱水、烘干：将抗菌处理后的坯布取出通过脱水机脱水后，再通过松式烘干机烘干，烘干温度为130℃-135℃。抗菌整理后先脱水烘干再做亲水整理，赋于面料同时具有抗菌防臭、吸湿排汗、亲水奥代尔等特殊功能，避免亲水硅油的阳离子与抗菌剂的阴离子反应产生沉淀而影响抗菌性能与亲水奥代尔手感。
S8、定型整理：将步骤S7烘干后的面料放入定型机中进行定型处理，定型液中包含5％吸湿排汗剂QH-13和13％亲水硅油T718，定型温度180℃，车速18m/min，上下超喂45％/2％，一浸一轧，轧余率60％，压力0.25MPa，定型后克重150g/m2。
表1：本发明实施例1-3的步骤S5染液配方表
Figure BDA0002805820520000061
对比例1
该对比例1与上述实施例1的区别仅在于：取消步骤S3烧毛，并在步骤S4前处理之后和S5染色之前进行步骤S4-1抛光步骤。该步骤S4-1抛光工艺具体为：加入温度处于35～60℃的温水，调整PH值处于5.5～6，然后加入坯布重量0.2％～0.5％的中性抛光酶，持续反应15min～20min。抛光完成后进行实施例1所述的匀染工艺且取消使用S5染色中的中性抛光酶，中性抛光酶在匀染过程中持续抛光作用。
对比例2
该对比例2与上述实施例1的区别仅在于：取消使用S5染色中的中性抛光酶。
对比例3
该对比例3与上述实施例1的区别仅在于步骤S5染色不同，该对比例3的S5染色工艺具体为：如图3所示，采用60℃恒温染色工艺对莫代尔/棉混纺织物染色，将莫代尔/棉混纺织物置于染缸中，将莫代尔/棉混纺织物置于染缸中，进水保持浴比1:9，升温至55℃保持恒温，在15min内加入Avitera SE系列染料和中性抛光酶后运行15min，再分3次均量加入元明粉后运行20min，再分两次加入纯碱、分两次加入固色碱，运行5min后升温至60℃再运行60min，排液，完成染色。
取上述实施例1-3和对比例1-3的莫代尔/棉混纺针织面料进行试验检测，结果参见表2。
表2：本发明实施例1-3及对比例1-3的针织面料物性检测结果表
Figure BDA0002805820520000071
由此可见，本发明通过烧毛工序及染色中的轻抛光，不仅布面毛羽到达要求，布身强力损失也小，同时亲水奥代尔手感良好；本发明前处理采用低温低碱，既避免坯布因前处理高温高碱而使面料强力受损，确保面料弹性与性能，又达到煮炼漂白效果和染色匀染效果；本发明通过活性染料sumifix HF高温匀染莫代尔和棉，两种纤维同色性好，布面颜色饱满，色泽均匀靓丽，无白星现象。同时，本发明的耐皂洗牢度、耐水色牢度、耐汗渍牢度和耐光色牢度均可达到4级以上。本发明制得的莫代尔/棉针织面料手感柔软、光滑平整、悬垂性好、具有优异的吸湿、干爽、消臭抑菌、抗静电、抗起毛起球等多项特性及服用性能，适用于高档针织内衣面料，使人们在休闲或运动之余，得到更舒适爽悦、更卫生健康、更安全和体贴入微的体验与感受。
以上显示和描述了本发明创造的基本原理和主要特征及本发明的优点，本行业的技术人员应该了解，本发明不受上述实施例的限制，上述实施例和说明书中描述的只是说明本发明的原理，在不脱离本发明创造精神和范围的前提下，本发明还会有各种变化和改进，这些变化和改进都落入要求保护的本发明范围内，本发明要求保护范围由所附的权利要求书及其等效物界定。

Claims (9)

1.一种多功能莫代尔/棉混纺针织面料的加工工艺，其特征在于：具体包括如下步骤：
S1、织造：采用莫代尔/棉混纺纱与氨纶纱按用纱量比为95﹕5纬编织造成坯布；
S2、初定：对步骤S1的坯布先松布摆放8小时以上再进行蒸胚定型；
S3、烧毛：利用布身与绒毛升温速率不同的原理，达到只烧去坯布正反面毛羽达4级；
S4、前处理：将步骤S3烧毛后的坯布入缸依次进行低温低碱煮漂、溢流洗水、过酸中和以及除氧，充分去除洗净木质素、油份、蜡质及沾附的灰份杂质；
S5、高温匀染：将步骤S4前处理后的坯布进行高温匀染，具体为：加水升温至50℃-55℃，在15min-20min内加入活性染料sumifix HF和少量中性抛光酶后运行15min-20min，再分3次均量加入元明粉后运行5min-8min，然后升温至80℃-82℃，保温染色20min-25min后降温至60℃-62℃运行5min-8min，再分两次加入纯碱、分两次加入固色碱，然后运行50min-70min，排液；
S6、缸内抗菌处理：加入抗菌剂进行缸内抗菌处理15min-20min，温度50℃-55℃；
S7、脱水、烘干；
S8、定型整理：将步骤S7烘干后的面料放入定型机中进行定型处理，定型液中包含2％-5％吸湿排汗剂和12％-15％亲水硅油。
2.根据权利要求1所述的多功能莫代尔/棉混纺针织面料，其特征在于：所述莫代尔/面混纺纱为JM/C40S.40/60，所述氨纶为20D，坯布为平针组织。
3.根据权利要求1所述的多功能莫代尔/棉混纺针织面料，其特征在于：所述步骤S2的蒸胚定型工艺为温度为195℃-200℃，车速为25m/min-30m/min，上下超喂45％/6％。
4.根据权利要求1所述的多功能莫代尔/棉混纺针织面料，其特征在于：所述步骤S3的烧毛工艺为机速为80m/min-100m/min，火力为18立方米每小时-20立方米每小时。
5.根据权利要求1所述的多功能莫代尔/棉混纺针织面料，其特征在于：所述步骤S4前处理工艺具体为：坯布入缸后进45℃-50℃温水，加入1g/l-1.5g/l低泡精练除油剂SF-2和1g/l-1.5g/l低温炼漂剂TF-189，保温运行4min-6min后加入2g/l-3g/l精炼酶并保温运行8min-12min，然后升温至68℃-72℃，加入6g/l-8g/l双氧水和1g/l-1.5g/l精炼剂TF-129K，保温运行8min-12min后升温至82-87℃并保温运行25min-35min，然后降温至75℃-80℃，溢流水洗，排液；加45-50℃温水，保温运行5min-9min，排液；加45℃-50℃温水，加入中和酸、测pH至5.5-6.5，运行5min-9min后，加入除氧酶，运行10min-14min，排液。
6.根据权利要求1所述的多功能莫代尔/棉混纺针织面料，其特征在于：所述步骤S6中抗菌剂的用量以坯布重量计的5％-8％。
7.根据权利要求1所述的多功能莫代尔/棉混纺针织面料，其特征在于：所述步骤S7具体为将抗菌处理后的坯布取出通过脱水机脱水后，再通过松式烘干机烘干，烘干温度为130℃-135℃。
8.根据权利要求1所述的多功能莫代尔/棉混纺针织面料，其特征在于：所述步骤S8的定型工艺为定型温度175℃-180℃，车速15m/min-20m/min，上下超喂45％/2％，一浸一轧，轧余率50％-60％，压力0.25-0.4MPa，定型后克重150g/m2-160g/m2。
9.一种由权利要求1至8任一项所述的加工工艺制成的多功能莫代尔/棉混纺针织面料。
CN202011370166.4A 2020-11-30 2020-11-30 一种多功能莫代尔/棉混纺针织面料及其加工工艺 Active CN112553760B (zh)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CN202011370166.4A CN112553760B (zh) 2020-11-30 2020-11-30 一种多功能莫代尔/棉混纺针织面料及其加工工艺

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CN202011370166.4A CN112553760B (zh) 2020-11-30 2020-11-30 一种多功能莫代尔/棉混纺针织面料及其加工工艺

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
CN112553760A true CN112553760A (zh) 2021-03-26
CN112553760B CN112553760B (zh) 2022-05-10

Family

ID=75045243

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
CN202011370166.4A Active CN112553760B (zh) 2020-11-30 2020-11-30 一种多功能莫代尔/棉混纺针织面料及其加工工艺

Country Status (1)

Country Link
CN (1) CN112553760B (zh)

Cited By (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN113249848A (zh) * 2021-05-18 2021-08-13 泰安市丽源工贸有限公司 一种含艾维纤维针织提花面料及其制备方法
CN114438651A (zh) * 2022-01-25 2022-05-06 青岛佰耐尔进出口有限公司 一种丝光棉拉架针织面料及其加工方法
CN114836871A (zh) * 2022-05-10 2022-08-02 永昇品牌管理(广州)有限公司 单向排汗面料及其制备方法
CN115679529A (zh) * 2022-09-29 2023-02-03 宁波大千纺织品有限公司 一种超柔丝滑亲肤全棉针织面料及其制备方法
CN115874328A (zh) * 2022-12-31 2023-03-31 福建凤竹纺织科技股份有限公司 玻尿酸亲肤保湿针织面料及其生产工艺
CN115897263A (zh) * 2022-12-31 2023-04-04 福建凤竹纺织科技股份有限公司 深色莫代尔棉混纺面料染整工艺

Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP1788130A1 (de) * 2005-11-17 2007-05-23 Moll GmbH Textil und Verfahren zu dessen Herstellung
CN102330313A (zh) * 2011-07-07 2012-01-25 吴江二练亚氏印染有限责任公司 一种印染用烧毛装置
CN104420365A (zh) * 2013-09-09 2015-03-18 青岛三秀新科技复合面料有限公司 莫代尔/棉混纺织物染色工艺
CN106368014A (zh) * 2016-08-29 2017-02-01 浙江雅雪染整有限公司 一种莫代尔/棉混纺织物染色工艺
CN109505134A (zh) * 2018-10-12 2019-03-22 上海先拓精细化工有限公司 一种棉针织、纱线一浴低温低碱精练剂

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP1788130A1 (de) * 2005-11-17 2007-05-23 Moll GmbH Textil und Verfahren zu dessen Herstellung
CN102330313A (zh) * 2011-07-07 2012-01-25 吴江二练亚氏印染有限责任公司 一种印染用烧毛装置
CN104420365A (zh) * 2013-09-09 2015-03-18 青岛三秀新科技复合面料有限公司 莫代尔/棉混纺织物染色工艺
CN106368014A (zh) * 2016-08-29 2017-02-01 浙江雅雪染整有限公司 一种莫代尔/棉混纺织物染色工艺
CN109505134A (zh) * 2018-10-12 2019-03-22 上海先拓精细化工有限公司 一种棉针织、纱线一浴低温低碱精练剂

Cited By (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN113249848A (zh) * 2021-05-18 2021-08-13 泰安市丽源工贸有限公司 一种含艾维纤维针织提花面料及其制备方法
CN114438651A (zh) * 2022-01-25 2022-05-06 青岛佰耐尔进出口有限公司 一种丝光棉拉架针织面料及其加工方法
CN114836871A (zh) * 2022-05-10 2022-08-02 永昇品牌管理(广州)有限公司 单向排汗面料及其制备方法
CN115679529A (zh) * 2022-09-29 2023-02-03 宁波大千纺织品有限公司 一种超柔丝滑亲肤全棉针织面料及其制备方法
CN115874328A (zh) * 2022-12-31 2023-03-31 福建凤竹纺织科技股份有限公司 玻尿酸亲肤保湿针织面料及其生产工艺
CN115897263A (zh) * 2022-12-31 2023-04-04 福建凤竹纺织科技股份有限公司 深色莫代尔棉混纺面料染整工艺

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
CN112553760B (zh) 2022-05-10

Similar Documents

Publication Publication Date Title
CN112553760B (zh) 一种多功能莫代尔/棉混纺针织面料及其加工工艺
CN110029501B (zh) 一种深色免烫耐洗纯棉针织面料及其制作方法与应用
CN111172654B (zh) 具有节能减排效果的超软弹性针织面料生产工艺
JP7433332B2 (ja) 綿質地ポリエステル先染生地、その製造方法、及び使用
CN108396447B (zh) 一种高机号单面纬编针织物
CN112593331B (zh) 一种仿割绒效果蓬松柔软毛圈织物的生产方法
CN101082155A (zh) 一种包芯纱织物的染整方法
CN108442146A (zh) 一种莫代尔涤桃皮绒开纤染色工艺
CN112301771A (zh) 提高纯棉针织物染色品质的连续印染加工方法
CN111118718A (zh) 冰氧吧凉感抑菌拒水面料的生产工艺
CN113005614A (zh) 一种冰爽高保形棉锦面料及其制造方法
CN112301498B (zh) 一种手感柔软的面料及其生产工艺
CN115161843B (zh) 一种天然抗菌超柔汉麻真丝高支高密精细面料的加工方法
CN109629116B (zh) 一种牛奶蛋白亲肤面料及其制备方法
CN109371533A (zh) 毛涤弹力凡立丁及其制备方法
CN114892431A (zh) 一种胶原蛋白纤维与莫代尔纤维混纺的家纺面料及其染整工艺
CN113789673A (zh) 纯棉面料免烫成衣染色的加工方法
CN115874328B (zh) 玻尿酸亲肤保湿针织面料及其生产工艺
CN112323314A (zh) 一种锦棉织物后整理短流程工艺
CN105862433A (zh) 舒适型高品质pima棉/牦牛毛混纺纱一次全成型针织制品
CN112626675A (zh) Easemax色织面料及其生产方法
CN117822185B (zh) 一种轻质保暖面料及其制备方法
CN115928302A (zh) 一种变化结构粗针距超柔触感针织面料及其制备方法
CN114717865B (zh) 一种纤维面料及其制备工艺
CN115401961A (zh) 一种调温抗过敏的天然亚麻交织面料

Legal Events

Date Code Title Description
PB01 Publication
PB01 Publication
SE01 Entry into force of request for substantive examination
SE01 Entry into force of request for substantive examination
GR01 Patent grant
GR01 Patent grant