CN110820336A - 一种防水面料及其生产方法 - Google Patents

一种防水面料及其生产方法 Download PDF

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CN110820336A
CN110820336A CN201911052010.9A CN201911052010A CN110820336A CN 110820336 A CN110820336 A CN 110820336A CN 201911052010 A CN201911052010 A CN 201911052010A CN 110820336 A CN110820336 A CN 110820336A
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waterproof
fabric
production method
waterproof fabric
temperature
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刘伟
姜爱娟
陈敏
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Jiangsu Jianlu Worsted Co Ltd
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Jiangsu Jianlu Worsted Co Ltd
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Abstract

本发明公开了一种防水面料，按重量份计，包括40～45澳羊毛、50～55涤纶和1～3莱卡；面料紧度为85％～102％，纱支56/2*56/2Nm。本发明的防水面料的生产方法通过将澳羊毛、涤纶和莱卡通过合理配比纺织、织造、后整理，织造紧密的织物结构，大拈度纱线工艺配合后整理防水整体工艺进行超级防水整理，产品的沾水性、透水率、含水量指标均较好，达到优异的防水功能要求，在质感方面既保留了羊毛的柔软、挺括、弹性等特点，又赋予织物更优的超级防水性能，充分体现了功能性面料的高档、典雅风格，是高档制服、运动装的首选面料。

Description

一种防水面料及其生产方法
技术领域
本发明涉及面料及其生产方法技术领域，具体涉及的是一种防水面料及其生产方法。
背景技术
现有市场上的双面呢原料多数采用全羊毛纤维或者利用羊毛与其他纤维混纺，这种原料加工成的双面呢手感细腻、质地紧密,挺括而且有弹性，虽然羊毛纤维的弹性好，但是纤维过粗，织物不够细腻，双面呢过于厚重，质地不够柔软，保暖性欠缺，穿着过程容易起球，耐磨性弱，湿热条件下极其容易失去弹性。
澳毛是指澳大利亚的羊毛，澳大利亚牧羊中70％为美利奴羊(MERINO)。美利奴羊以其毛毛密度高、优良的毛质等成为世界羊毛皮中的珍品。现有的双面呢防水效果不佳。
发明内容
针对上述不足之处，本发明的目的在于提供一种防水面料及其制备方法，其具有防水效果好的优势。
本发明的技术方案概述如下：
一种防水面料，其中，按重量份计，包括40～45澳羊毛、50～55涤纶和1～3莱卡；所述面料紧度为85％～102％，纱支56/2*56/2Nm。
一种防水面料的生产方法，其中，包括如下工序：
1)原料选择：
选用细度、长度均匀的澳羊毛纤维、涤纶纤维和莱卡为原料；
2)染色工序
澳羊毛纤维：澳羊毛纤维使用活性染料和低温促染剂，在70℃～85℃条件下染色；
涤纶：使用分散染料在120℃～140℃染色；
3)纺纱工序
4)织造工序
织造时单纱张力控制在10CN～20CN，倒轴张力1.5公斤，在整经倒轴过程中加入6％～10％的经纱冷浆剂；
5)后整理工序
烧毛-平洗煮-第一次烘干-第一次热定型-高洗-双煮-第二次烘干-中检-熟修-第三次烘干-防水整理-第二次热定型-中检-KD—成品。
优选的是，所述的防水面料的生产方法，其中，所述烧毛采用2#火口，正反面烧毛，车速110～130m/min。
优选的是，所述的防水面料的生产方法，其中，所述第一次烘干温度为100℃*30m/min～130℃*30m/min；第一次热定型温度为190℃*20m/min～200℃*20m/min。
优选的是，所述的防水面料的生产方法，其中，所述双煮温度为70～90℃。
优选的是，所述的防水面料的生产方法，其中，所述第二次热定型温度为160℃～180℃。
优选的是，所述的防水面料的生产方法，其中，按重量份计，所述防水整理剂包括：
Figure BDA0002255559740000031
优选的是，所述的防水面料的生产方法，其中，所述渗透剂为烷基硫酸酯钠、仲烷基磺酸钠、烷基酚聚氧乙烯醚中的一种。
优选的是，所述的防水面料的生产方法，其中，所述增稠剂为聚丙烯酸钠、环糊精、海藻酸钠中的一种或多种。
优选的是，所述的防水面料的生产方法，其中，还包括0.5～1份的N-2-氨基甲基-3-氨基丙基三甲氧基硅烷。
本发明的有益效果是：
本发明的防水面料的生产方法通过将澳羊毛、涤纶和莱卡通过合理配比纺织、织造、后整理，织造紧密的织物结构，大拈度纱线工艺配合后整理防水整体工艺进行超级防水整理，产品的沾水性、透水率、含水量指标均较好，达到优异的防水功能要求，在质感方面既保留了羊毛的柔软、挺括、弹性等特点，又赋予织物更优的超级防水性能，充分体现了功能性面料的高档、典雅风格，是高档制服、运动装的首选面料。
具体实施方式
下面结合实施例对本发明做进一步的详细说明，以令本领域技术人员参照说明书文字能够据以实施。
本发明提供一种防水面料，其中，按重量份计，包括40～45澳羊毛、50～55涤纶和1～3莱卡；所述面料紧度为85％～102％，纱支56/2*56/2Nm。
一种防水面料的生产方法，其中，包括如下工序：
1)原料选择：
选用细度、长度均匀的澳羊毛纤维、涤纶纤维和莱卡为原料；
2)染色工序
澳羊毛纤维：澳羊毛纤维使用活性染料和低温促染剂，在低温70℃～85℃条件下染色；
涤纶：使用分散染料在120℃～140℃染色；
3)纺纱工序
纺纱工序生产过程中在混料工序加入少量的亲水型和毛油，以水为主提高回潮，减少静电，使纤维有较好的柔韧性和抱合力，减少飞花毛，降低断头率。克服毛条不够顺滑，梳理难度大的问题，和毛油所使用的原料都是精制提炼的油品和抑制细菌，所以使用后不会引起织物变色和气味产生；精梳采用轻喂入量，拔取隔距加大从而减少纤维中毛粒的数量，采用轻定量、小牵伸、大隔距、低车速的工艺配置，减少粗细节和毛羽的产生，提高成纱条干，使其光洁、均匀；细纱走紧密纺机台，提高纱线拈系数为92*147，让纱线纤维排列紧密抱合更好，提高成品面料呢面光洁度。
4)织造工序
织造时单纱张力控制在10CN～20CN，倒轴张力1.5公斤，在整经倒轴过程中加入6％～10％的经纱冷浆剂；整经时对单纱之间的张力差异和片纱之间的张力差异进行严格控制，经现场测试单纱张力控制在10CN～20CN，倒轴张力1.5公斤，织轴张力均匀弹性适中成形圆整，避免成品布面出现跳花，在整经倒轴过程中加入8％的HG-106C经纱冷浆剂，使纱线毛羽服帖、表面更光洁，增强抱合力，提高耐磨性，减少断头。整经车速采用280转/分，在织机上采用小张力，优选性能优越的意大利箭杆织机，保证织造顺利进行。生产过程中重点对小跳花、小弓纱、小自吊“三小”疵点进行巡查，保证纹路清晰呢面干净；
5)后整理工序
烧毛-平洗煮-第一次烘干-第一次热定型-高洗-双煮-第二次烘干-中检-熟修-第三次烘干-防水整理-第二次热定型-中检-KD—成品。
作为本案又一实施例，其中，烧毛采用2#火口，正反面烧毛，车速110～130m/min。
作为本案又一实施例，其中，第一次烘干温度为100℃*30m/min～130℃*30m/min；第一次热定型温度为190℃*20m/min～200℃*20m/min，中超喂4/2。高洗：初洗：280m/min×10′﹙单﹚门幅12CM毛能净2kg，风速60，压力1mbar，洗后排净重新加料复洗：280m/min×30′毛能净2kg洗后排净后冲净出布冲洗30′洗呢前注意缸内清洁到位，一定要冲洗干净；双煮温度为70～90℃；第二次烘干1：130℃～150℃，下机153-154CM中超喂-2；第三次烘干：过水烘干130℃～150℃，下机153-154CM中超喂-2；防水整理是在130℃～140℃，压力0.1mpar400m1HAC；
作为本案又一实施例，其中，第二次热定型温度为160℃～180℃。
作为本案又一实施例，其中，按重量份计，防水整理剂包括：
Figure BDA0002255559740000051
氟碳树脂以牢固的C-F键为骨架，同其他树脂相比，其耐热性、耐化学品性、耐寒性、低温柔韧性和防水防油性能；聚醋酸乙烯和聚乙烯蜡协同提高防水整理剂的防水性能；甲基硅油用于织物的柔软整理，增加织物的润滑性，增加织物的滑爽感、丰满度和弹性；氮化铝进一步提高其防油性能。
作为本案又一实施例，其中，渗透剂为烷基硫酸酯钠、仲烷基磺酸钠、烷基酚聚氧乙烯醚中的一种。渗透剂改善防水整理剂在面料中的渗透性能。
作为本案又一实施例，其中，增稠剂为聚丙烯酸钠、环糊精、海藻酸钠中的一种或多种。增稠剂可以提高防水整理剂粘度，使防水整理剂保持均匀的稳定的粘度，本案优选的增稠剂为聚丙烯酸钠、环糊精、海藻酸钠中的一种或多种。
作为本案又一实施例，其中，还包括0.5～1份的N-2-氨基甲基-3-氨基丙基三甲氧基硅烷。N-2-氨基甲基-3-氨基丙基三甲氧基硅烷改善氮化铝在防水整体剂体系的相容性能，从而提高防水整体剂的防水防油性能。
面料经过防水整理剂的处理，高温定型后毛鳞片处于闭合状态，降低了纤维对助剂的吸收，固将超级防水整理放在定型之前，使纤维能够充分的吸收和固着助剂，从而更好的达到防水、透水性能，因此其功能性更优于普通的防水面料，具有超级防水的效果，且各项牢度指标达4-5级，优于常规的特氟隆整理的牢度指标，产品通过邦迪斯门测试方法测试，透水量:<10ml，含水率：<15％，防水级别：≥4级。
下面列出具体的实施例和对比例：
实施例1：
方案一：规格：44羊毛/54涤纶/2莱卡，56Nm/2*56Nm/2,克重：280G/M，紧度：85％，拈系数：83*130。
一种防水面料的生产方法，包括如下工序：
1)原料选择：
选用细度、长度均匀的澳羊毛纤维、涤纶纤维和莱卡为原料；
2)染色工序
澳羊毛纤维：澳羊毛纤维使用活性染料和低温促染剂，在低温70℃～85℃条件下染色；
涤纶：使用分散染料在120℃染色；
3)纺纱工序
4)织造工序
织造时单纱张力控制在10CN，倒轴张力1.5公斤，在整经倒轴过程中加入6％％的经纱冷浆剂；
5)后整理工序
烧毛-平洗煮-第一次烘干-第一次热定型-高洗-双煮-第二次烘干-中检-熟修-第三次烘干-防水整理-第二次热定型-中检-KD—成品。
烧毛采用2#火口，正反面烧毛，车速110m/min；第一次烘干温度为100℃*30m/min；第一次热定型温度为190℃*20m/min；双煮温度为70℃；第二次热定型温度为160℃；
按重量份计，防水整理剂包括：
Figure BDA0002255559740000061
Figure BDA0002255559740000071
N-2-氨基甲基-3-氨基丙基三甲氧基硅烷0.5份；
渗透剂为烷基硫酸酯钠；增稠剂为聚丙烯酸钠
实施例2：
44羊毛/54涤纶/2莱卡，56Nm/2*56Nm/2,克重：280G/M，紧度：85％，拈系数：83*130。
一种防水面料的生产方法，包括如下工序：
1)原料选择：
选用细度、长度均匀的澳羊毛纤维、涤纶纤维和莱卡为原料；
2)染色工序
澳羊毛纤维：澳羊毛纤维使用活性染料和低温促染剂，在低温70℃～85℃条件下染色；
涤纶：使用分散染料在120℃～140℃染色；
3)纺纱工序
4)织造工序
织造时单纱张力控制在10CN～20CN，倒轴张力1.5公斤，在整经倒轴过程中加入6％～10％的经纱冷浆剂；
5)后整理工序
烧毛-平洗煮-第一次烘干-第一次热定型-高洗-双煮-第二次烘干-中检-熟修-第三次烘干-防水整理-第二次热定型-中检-KD—成品。
烧毛采用2#火口，正反面烧毛，车速120m/min；第一次烘干温度为120℃*30m/min；第一次热定型温度为195℃*20m/min；双煮温度为80℃；第二次热定型温度为170℃；按重量份计，防水整理剂包括：
Figure BDA0002255559740000072
Figure BDA0002255559740000081
N-2-氨基甲基-3-氨基丙基三甲氧基硅烷0.8份。
渗透剂为仲烷基磺酸钠；增稠剂为环糊精。
实施例3：
44羊毛/54涤纶/2莱卡，56Nm/2*56Nm/2,克重：314G/M，紧度：102％，拈系数：92*147。
一种防水面料的生产方法，包括如下工序：
1)原料选择：
选用细度、长度均匀的澳羊毛纤维、涤纶纤维和莱卡为原料；
2)染色工序
澳羊毛纤维：澳羊毛纤维使用活性染料和低温促染剂，在80℃条件下染色；
涤纶：使用分散染料在130℃染色；
3)纺纱工序
4)织造工序
织造时单纱张力控制在16CN，倒轴张力1.5公斤，在整经倒轴过程中加入8％的经纱冷浆剂；
5)后整理工序
烧毛-平洗煮-第一次烘干-第一次热定型-高洗-双煮-第二次烘干-中检-熟修-第三次烘干-防水整理-第二次热定型-中检-KD—成品。
烧毛采用2#火口，正反面烧毛，车速120m/min；第一次烘干温度为120℃*30m/min；第一次热定型温度为195℃*20m/min；双煮温度为80℃；第二次热定型温度为170℃；按重量份计，防水整理剂包括：
Figure BDA0002255559740000082
Figure BDA0002255559740000091
渗透剂为烷基硫酸酯钠；增稠剂为糊精。
实施例4：
44羊毛/54涤纶/2莱卡，56Nm/2*56Nm/2,克重：314G/M，紧度：102％，拈系数：92*147。
一种防水面料的生产方法，包括如下工序：
1)原料选择：
选用细度、长度均匀的澳羊毛纤维、涤纶纤维和莱卡为原料；
2)染色工序
澳羊毛纤维：澳羊毛纤维使用活性染料和低温促染剂，在85℃条件下染色；
涤纶：使用分散染料在140℃染色；
3)纺纱工序
4)织造工序
织造时单纱张力控制在20CN，倒轴张力1.5公斤，在整经倒轴过程中加入10％的经纱冷浆剂；
5)后整理工序
烧毛-平洗煮-第一次烘干-第一次热定型-高洗-双煮-第二次烘干-中检-熟修-第三次烘干-防水整理-第二次热定型-中检-KD—成品。
烧毛采用2#火口，正反面烧毛，车速130m/min；第一次烘干温度为130℃*30m/min；第一次热定型温度为200℃*20m/min；双煮温度为90℃；第二次热定型温度为180℃；按重量份计，防水整理剂包括：
N-2-氨基甲基-3-氨基丙基三甲氧基硅烷1份。
渗透剂为烷基酚聚氧乙烯醚；增稠剂为海藻酸钠。
实施例1～4的面料通过邦迪斯门法检测，面料经1min,5min,10min不同时间段测试沾水性、透水率、含水量指标：
实施例1～4的性能测试结果如表1：
表1
Figure BDA0002255559740000102
从表中可以看出，实施例1、实施例3沾水级别、色牢度、手感及颜色稳定性很好，但实施例1含水率和透水量指标不好；实施例2、实施例4沾水性、含水率、透水量、色牢度、手感均不理想，因而从四个方案指标数值对比可以看出实施例3最佳。
本产品通过设计紧密的织物结构，大拈度纱线工艺配合后整理科学的工艺流程，选用特殊助剂进行超级防水整理，产品通过邦迪斯门法检测，面料经1min，5min，10min不同时间段测试沾水性、透水率、含水量指标均较好，达到优异的防水功能要求，在质感方面既保留了羊毛的柔软、挺括、弹性等特点，又赋予织物更优的超级防水性能，充分体现了功能性面料的高档、典雅风格，是高档制服、运动装的首选面料。
超级防水功能呢面料的开发，赋予了羊毛织物更广的用途及特殊的功能特点，符合消费者对功能性的需求。经权威机构检测本产品透水量:<10ml，含水率：<15％，防水级别：≥4级。
尽管本发明的实施方案已公开如上，但其并不仅仅限于说明书和实施方式中所列运用，它完全可以被适用于各种适合本发明的领域，对于熟悉本领域的人员而言，可容易地实现另外的修改，因此在不背离权利要求及等同范围所限定的一般概念下，本发明并不限于特定的细节。

Claims (10)

1.一种防水面料，其特征在于，按重量份计，包括40～45澳羊毛、50～55涤纶和1～3莱卡；所述面料紧度为85％～102％，纱支56/2*56/2Nm。
2.一种防水面料的生产方法，其特征在于，包括如下工序：
1)原料选择
选用细度、长度均匀的澳羊毛纤维、涤纶纤维和莱卡为原料；
2)染色工序
澳羊毛纤维：澳羊毛纤维使用活性染料和低温促染剂，在70℃～85℃条件下染色；
涤纶：使用分散染料在120℃～140℃染色；
3)纺纱工序
4)织造工序
织造时单纱张力控制在10CN～20CN，倒轴张力1.5公斤，在整经倒轴过程中加入6％～10％的经纱冷浆剂；
5)后整理工序
烧毛-平洗煮-第一次烘干-第一次热定型-高洗-双煮-第二次烘干-中检-熟修-第三次烘干-防水整理-第二次热定型-中检-KD—成品。
3.根据权利要求2所述的防水面料的生产方法，其特征在于，所述烧毛采用2#火口，正反面烧毛，车速110～130m/min。
4.根据权利要求2所述的防水面料的生产方法，其特征在于，所述第一次烘干温度为100℃*30m/min～130℃*30m/min；第一次热定型温度为190℃*20m/min～200℃*20m/min。
5.根据权利要求2所述的防水面料的生产方法，其特征在于，所述双煮温度为70～90℃。
6.根据权利要求2所述的防水面料的生产方法，其特征在于，所述第二次热定型温度为160℃～180℃。
7.根据权利要求2所述的防水面料的生产方法，其特征在于，按重量份计，所述防水整理剂包括：
Figure FDA0002255559730000011
Figure FDA0002255559730000021
8.根据权利要求7所述的防水面料的生产方法，其特征在于，所述渗透剂为烷基硫酸酯钠、仲烷基磺酸钠、烷基酚聚氧乙烯醚中的一种。
9.根据权利要求7所述的防水面料的生产方法，其特征在于，所述增稠剂为聚丙烯酸钠、环糊精、海藻酸钠中的一种或多种。
10.根据权利要求7所述的防水面料的生产方法，其特征在于，还包括0.5～1份的N-2-氨基甲基-3-氨基丙基三甲氧基硅烷。
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