CN109306571A - 一种高保型高色牢度的针织螺纹袖口和领口的加工方法 - Google Patents

一种高保型高色牢度的针织螺纹袖口和领口的加工方法 Download PDF

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CN109306571A
CN109306571A CN201811159703.3A CN201811159703A CN109306571A CN 109306571 A CN109306571 A CN 109306571A CN 201811159703 A CN201811159703 A CN 201811159703A CN 109306571 A CN109306571 A CN 109306571A
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screw thread
knitting
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樊剑斌
徐京云
赵学朝
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Rimula Men (shanghai) Co Ltd
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Abstract

本发明涉及一种高保型高色牢度的针织螺纹袖口和领口的加工方法，取绢丝棉混纺纱依次经练漂、染色、烘干后，织造即得到针织螺纹袖口和领口，其中，练漂过程具体为：取绢丝棉混纺纱置入含有螯合剂、稳定剂、渗透剂、双氧水、烧碱和净洗剂的混合溶液中，升温练漂，冲洗，即完成。与现有技术相比，本发明制得的袖口和领口等织物结构保型性与色牢度高，织物表面均匀平坦、光泽好、优雅高贵，柔和亮丽等。

Description

一种高保型高色牢度的针织螺纹袖口和领口的加工方法
技术领域
本发明属于功能性面料制品技术领域，涉及一种高保型高色牢度的针织螺纹袖口和领口的加工方法。
背景技术
采用针织螺纹的袖口和领口的休闲服装，风格年轻时尚，而其富有弹性，让消费者颈部和腕部较少有束缚感，穿着随意舒适。而对于秋冬穿着，针织螺纹的袖口和领口，又有防风保暖的优点，越来越受到消费者的欢迎。
但是传统的针织螺纹袖口一般采用棉或毛腈成分，经过多次洗涤，容易出现褪色发白，螺纹袖口变形等问题，影响整件成衣的外观和使用寿命。此问题限制了针织螺纹袖口在一些需要经常洗涤服装上的应用，如夏季茄克等，亟待解决。
发明内容
本发明的目的就是为了克服上述现有技术存在的缺陷而提供一种高保型高色牢度的针织螺纹袖口和领口的加工方法。
本发明的目的可以通过以下技术方案来实现：
一种高保型高色牢度的针织螺纹袖口和领口的加工方法，取绢丝棉混纺纱依次经练漂、染色、烘干后，织造即得到针织螺纹袖口和领口，其中，
练漂过程具体为：取绢丝棉混纺纱置入含有螯合剂、稳定剂、渗透剂、双氧水、烧碱和净洗剂的混合溶液中，升温练漂，冲洗，即完成。
进一步的，混合溶液中，螯合剂的含量为0.5g/L，稳定剂的含量为1g/L，渗透剂的含量为1g/L，双氧水的含量为4g/L，烧碱的含量为1.5g/L，净洗剂的含量为5g/L；
浴比为1:20。
更进一步的，所述的螯合剂为飞灰螯合剂，所述的稳定剂为PVC复合稳定剂，所述的渗透剂为耐碱渗透剂OEP-70，所述的净洗剂为净洗剂209。
进一步的，练漂过程的工艺条件为：以1℃/min的速度升温至110℃，保温处理20min，再用45℃温度冲洗，即完成。
进一步的，染色过程具体为：
取练漂后绢丝棉混纺纱置于加入40℃染液中，15min后加入无明粉，再染20min后加入纯碱，升温至70℃，保温固色50min，降温排液，即完成。
更进一步的，所述的染液中含有质量含量3％的活性红b-3bf和1-2g/L的棉用匀染剂；
无明粉的加入量为60g/L，纯碱的加入量为20g/L。
更进一步的，染色过程的浴比为1:20。
进一步的，织造得到的针织螺纹袖口和领口采用16针“四平针”组织结构。
进一步的，绢丝棉混纺纱含有55wt％的绢丝与45wt％的棉。
本发明绢丝棉混纺纱在染色前，仍会有少量丝胶和助剂等杂质残留，必须要去除，否则会严重影响后续染色效果。本发明通过采用净洗剂、渗透剂、纯碱等除去残留杂质及绢纺时加入的助剂，螯合剂、稳定剂、渗透剂与净洗剂等助剂的复合加入，并同时利用较强碱性条件下过氧化氢漂白去除棉纤维中的杂质色素等，大大的提高了后续染色的均匀性、色光和耐洗牢度。本发明中螯合剂的加入有效的提高了绢丝棉混纺纱中各纤维之间的粘合紧固效果，使得纤维在练漂过程中不易脱丝分离，而稳定剂的加入则可以与螯合剂等配合提高后续染料的粘附性，使得混纺纱先不易掉色，有效保持产品新鲜度，此外，渗透剂的加入有助于提高染色效率，使得染色一步到位，而净洗剂则在螯合剂等助剂改性复合作用下，可以在混纺纱线表面形成一层高疏水性薄膜，有效提高产品耐脏程度。
与现有技术相比，本发明具有以下优点：
(1)本发明选用绢丝棉螺纹，使成衣领口、袖口和下摆处螺纹垂性好不容易皱，手感柔软爽滑。特别领口与袖口贴身处亲肤性好，光滑、凉爽、润肤穿着非常舒适，透气性与吸湿功能强，能迅速吸收并散发人体汗气。较好的抗菌性能好，防整滋生病菌，是最好的健康纤维。而桑蚕丝含18种氨基酸，可促进人体新陈代谢，安定精神。
(2)绢丝棉混纺纱采用合理的55％绢丝45％棉的成分配比，使织物保持桑蚕丝的特性同时，又能具有棉纤维的吸湿、透气，能迅速吸收并散发人体汗气。同时保证织物的强力性能，让织物经久耐穿而不变形。
(3)采用16针高密四平针组织结构，该组织结构纵向和横向伸长能力都很大，适合做茄克。该组织织物断裂强大、质地轻薄、透气性好。且织物表面均匀平坦、光泽好、优雅高贵，柔和亮丽。
(4)本发明在染色前，经过特殊的练漂工艺处理，大大提高了后续染色的均匀性、色光和耐洗牢度。此外，染色时，采用活性红b-3bf与棉用匀染剂(I-450)作为复合染料，可以保证对绢丝棉纤维有很好的同色性，色牢度高，绢丝棉纤维筒子内外层色差4-5级。
具体实施方式
下面结合具体实施例对本发明进行详细说明。本实施例以本发明技术方案为前提进行实施，给出了详细的实施方式和具体的操作过程，但本发明的保护范围不限于下述的实施例。
以下各实施例中如无特别说明，则说明所采用原料、试剂等均为本领域常用市售产品。
实施例
一种高保型高色牢度的针织螺纹袖口和领口的加工方法，取绢丝棉混纺纱依次经练漂、染色、烘干后，织造即得到针织螺纹袖口和领口，其中，
练漂过程具体为：取绢丝棉混纺纱置入含有螯合剂、稳定剂、渗透剂、双氧水、烧碱和净洗剂的混合溶液中，升温练漂，冲洗，即完成，混合溶液中，螯合剂的含量为0.5g/L，稳定剂的含量为1g/L，渗透剂的含量为1g/L，双氧水的含量为4g/L，烧碱的含量为1.5g/L，净洗剂的含量为5g/L，所述的螯合剂为飞灰螯合剂，所述的稳定剂为PVC复合稳定剂，所述的渗透剂为耐碱渗透剂OEP-70，所述的净洗剂为净洗剂209；
练漂过程的浴比为1:20，练漂的工艺条件为：以1℃/min的速度升温至110℃，保温处理20min，再用45℃温度冲洗，即完成。
染色过程具体为：
取练漂后绢丝棉混纺纱置于加入40℃染液中，15min后加入无明粉，再染20min后加入纯碱，升温至70℃，保温固色50min，降温排液，即完成，其中，所述的染液中含有质量含量3％的活性红b-3bf和1-2g/L的棉用匀染剂，无明粉的加入量为60g/L，纯碱的加入量为20g/L，染色过程的浴比为1:20。
织造得到的针织螺纹袖口和领口采用16针“四平针”组织结构，所用的绢丝棉混纺纱含有55wt％的绢丝与45wt％的棉。
将染色后的纱线按aatcc标准进行色牢度测试，所得结果如下表1所示。
表1
对比实施例1
与实施例1相比，除了本实施例未加入螯合剂与稳定剂外，其余均一样。
对比实施例2
与实施例1相比，除了本实施例未加入渗透剂外，其余均一样。
将对比例1与对比例2的纱线同样按照aatcc标准进行色牢度测试，所得结果如下表2所示。
表2
比较实施例1与对比例1、对比例2中的结果，可知，螯合剂、稳定剂与渗透剂等的加入大大提高了对绢丝棉混纺纱的残留杂质的去除效果，同时，也提高了后续染色的色牢度等。
对比例3
与实施例1相比，除了本实施例的绢丝棉混纺纱中，绢丝成分配比为70％，棉成分配比为30％外，其余均一样。
对比例4
与实施例1相比，除了本实施例的绢丝棉混纺纱中，绢丝成分配比为30％，棉成分配比为70％外，其余均一样。
比较实施例1与对比例3、对比例4所制得的织物，发现绢丝与棉的含量不论是过高还是过低，都会使得最后所制得的织物的抗皱性有着一定程度的减弱。
上述的对实施例的描述是为便于该技术领域的普通技术人员能理解和使用发明。熟悉本领域技术的人员显然可以容易地对这些实施例做出各种修改，并把在此说明的一般原理应用到其他实施例中而不必经过创造性的劳动。因此，本发明不限于上述实施例，本领域技术人员根据本发明的揭示，不脱离本发明范畴所做出的改进和修改都应该在本发明的保护范围之内。

Claims (8)

1.一种高保型高色牢度的针织螺纹袖口和领口的加工方法，其特征在于，取绢丝棉混纺纱依次经练漂、染色、烘干后，织造即得到针织螺纹袖口和领口，其中，
练漂过程具体为：取绢丝棉混纺纱置入含有螯合剂、稳定剂、渗透剂、双氧水、烧碱和净洗剂的混合溶液中，升温练漂，冲洗，即完成。
2.根据权利要求1所述的一种高保型高色牢度的针织螺纹袖口和领口的加工方法，其特征在于，混合溶液中，螯合剂的含量为0.5g/L，稳定剂的含量为1g/L，渗透剂的含量为1g/L，双氧水的含量为4g/L，烧碱的含量为1.5g/L，净洗剂的含量为5g/L；
浴比为1:20。
3.根据权利要求1所述的一种高保型高色牢度的针织螺纹袖口和领口的加工方法，其特征在于，练漂过程的工艺条件为：以1℃/min的速度升温至110℃，保温处理20min，再用45℃温度冲洗，即完成。
4.根据权利要求1所述的一种高保型高色牢度的针织螺纹袖口和领口的加工方法，其特征在于，染色过程具体为：
取练漂后绢丝棉混纺纱置于加入40℃染液中，15min后加入无明粉，再染20min后加入纯碱，升温至70℃，保温固色50min，降温排液，即完成。
5.根据权利要求4所述的一种高保型高色牢度的针织螺纹袖口和领口的加工方法，其特征在于，所述的染液中含有质量含量3％的活性红b-3bf和1-2g/L的棉用匀染剂；
无明粉的加入量为60g/L，纯碱的加入量为20g/L。
6.根据权利要求4所述的一种高保型高色牢度的针织螺纹袖口和领口的加工方法，其特征在于，染色过程的浴比为1:20。
7.根据权利要求1所述的一种高保型高色牢度的针织螺纹袖口和领口的加工方法，其特征在于，织造得到的针织螺纹袖口和领口采用16针“四平针”组织结构。
8.根据权利要求1所述的一种高保型高色牢度的针织螺纹袖口和领口的加工方法，其特征在于，绢丝棉混纺纱含有55wt％的绢丝与45wt％的棉。
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