CN109023642A - 仿牛仔面料的制造工艺及应用 - Google Patents

仿牛仔面料的制造工艺及应用 Download PDF

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CN109023642A
CN109023642A CN201810894974.7A CN201810894974A CN109023642A CN 109023642 A CN109023642 A CN 109023642A CN 201810894974 A CN201810894974 A CN 201810894974A CN 109023642 A CN109023642 A CN 109023642A
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denim fabric
fabric
substrate
manufacturing process
imitative
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卢红
周凯
杨明星
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Diya Kang (suzhou) Co Ltd High-Grade Fabrics
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B27/00—Layered products comprising a layer of synthetic resin
    • B32B27/12—Layered products comprising a layer of synthetic resin next to a fibrous or filamentary layer
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B27/00—Layered products comprising a layer of synthetic resin
    • B32B27/32—Layered products comprising a layer of synthetic resin comprising polyolefins
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B27/00—Layered products comprising a layer of synthetic resin
    • B32B27/40—Layered products comprising a layer of synthetic resin comprising polyurethanes
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B33/00—Layered products characterised by particular properties or particular surface features, e.g. particular surface coatings; Layered products designed for particular purposes not covered by another single class
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B37/00—Methods or apparatus for laminating, e.g. by curing or by ultrasonic bonding
    • B32B37/10—Methods or apparatus for laminating, e.g. by curing or by ultrasonic bonding characterised by the pressing technique, e.g. using action of vacuum or fluid pressure
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B37/00—Methods or apparatus for laminating, e.g. by curing or by ultrasonic bonding
    • B32B37/12—Methods or apparatus for laminating, e.g. by curing or by ultrasonic bonding characterised by using adhesives
    • B32B37/1284—Application of adhesive
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B7/00—Layered products characterised by the relation between layers; Layered products characterised by the relative orientation of features between layers, or by the relative values of a measurable parameter between layers, i.e. products comprising layers having different physical, chemical or physicochemical properties; Layered products characterised by the interconnection of layers
    • B32B7/04—Interconnection of layers
    • B32B7/12—Interconnection of layers using interposed adhesives or interposed materials with bonding properties
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/16—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials synthetic threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04C—BRAIDING OR MANUFACTURE OF LACE, INCLUDING BOBBIN-NET OR CARBONISED LACE; BRAIDING MACHINES; BRAID; LACE
    • D04C1/00—Braid or lace, e.g. pillow-lace; Processes for the manufacture thereof
    • D04C1/06—Braid or lace serving particular purposes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B15/00—Removing liquids, gases or vapours from textile materials in association with treatment of the materials by liquids, gases or vapours
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B3/00—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating
    • D06B3/10—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating of fabrics
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B2255/00—Coating on the layer surface
    • B32B2255/02—Coating on the layer surface on fibrous or filamentary layer
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B2262/00—Composition or structural features of fibres which form a fibrous or filamentary layer or are present as additives
    • B32B2262/02—Synthetic macromolecular fibres
    • B32B2262/0261—Polyamide fibres
    • B32B2262/0269—Aromatic polyamide fibres
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B2262/00—Composition or structural features of fibres which form a fibrous or filamentary layer or are present as additives
    • B32B2262/02—Synthetic macromolecular fibres
    • B32B2262/0276—Polyester fibres
    • B32B2262/0284—Polyethylene terephthalate [PET] or polybutylene terephthalate [PBT]
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B2307/00—Properties of the layers or laminate
    • B32B2307/70—Other properties
    • B32B2307/724—Permeability to gases, adsorption
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B2437/00—Clothing

Abstract

一种服装面料技术领域仿牛仔面料的制造工艺及应用，包括以下步骤：S1，将经织造、退浆的基材清水浸轧定型，保证基材布面平整；S2，将上述基材高温焙烘干燥，焙烘温度为160～170℃，焙烘时间为20～30S；S3，刮涂涂料色浆，再次高温焙烘将色浆固着在基材上，得到仿牛仔面料；所述高温焙烘温度为160～170℃，焙烘时间25～30S。本发明制造工艺简单，环境污染小，且选材广泛，能够提高穿着的舒适性。

Description

仿牛仔面料的制造工艺及应用
技术领域
本发明涉及的是一种服装面料领域的技术，具体是一种仿牛仔面料的制造工艺及应用。
背景技术
传统牛仔布是通过纱线多道染色达到靛蓝的效果，一方面投资费用高、染化料耗用多、操作难度大，且对环境污染严重，另一方面风格呆板单一、手感较硬、容易变形，只能用作单一面料，且不具备防水透湿功能。
发明内容
本发明针对现有技术存在的上述不足，提出了一种仿牛仔面料的制造工艺及应用，制造工艺简单，环境污染小，且选材广泛，能够提高穿着的舒适性。
本发明是通过以下技术方案实现的：
本发明涉及一种仿牛仔面料的制造工艺，包括：
S1，将经织造、退浆的基材清水浸轧定型，保证基材布面平整；
S2，将上述基材高温焙烘干燥，焙烘温度为160～170℃，焙烘时间为20～30S；
S3，刮涂涂料色浆，再次高温焙烘将色浆固着在基材上，得到仿牛仔面料；所述高温焙烘温度为160～170℃，焙烘时间为25～30S。
所述基材采用聚酯成分或尼龙成分的混纺面料、交织面料、梭织面料、针织面料、网眼布中的任意一种。
所述色浆为聚酯类涂料、颜料涂料中的任意一种；优选地，采用靛蓝色涂料。
本发明涉及一种防水保湿型仿牛仔面料，采用上述仿牛仔面料经防水处理并贴合有透湿膜和里布；所述防水保湿型仿牛仔面料可达到C6防水洗前4级，40℃机洗，烘干。
所述透湿膜透膜为低透膜、中透膜、高透膜中的任意一种。
优选地，所述高透膜的材质为PU、TPU、TPE、WPC、WPD中任意一种。
优选地，所述里布采用与面布成分相同或类似的布料，也可采用网布、摇粒绒。
所述防水处理采用带液率30％～50％的氟碳类丙烯酸酯类或者无氟类型的防水剂对仿牛仔面料浸轧、干燥再焙烘；干燥温度为100～120℃、时间为20～40S，焙烘温度为140～160℃、时间为1～3min。
所述贴合包括以下步骤：
a.通过导管将胶水导至料槽，通过雕花辊将胶水转移到仿牛仔面料一侧表面上；
b.然后通过橡胶压辊，将仿牛仔面料与透湿膜和里布层层贴合；
c.使整个布面保持平整，反应48h；反应室环境：温度23℃，65％湿度，而后打卷，检验。
所述胶水采用PU热熔胶。
所述橡胶轧辊的压力为2～5MPa，流水线车速为10～30m/min。
技术效果
与现有技术相比，本发明具有如下技术效果：
1)仿牛仔面料与不同膜、里布贴合，运用范围广，增加了设计选择的多样化；在制成成品后，通过不同的水洗方式，可以得到与牛仔面料等同的颜色效果；而面料无需染色，降低了环境污染；
2)成品面料的加工符合环保的要求，工艺简单、效率高；
3)成品具有防风、柔软、透气、弹性好等特点，能够满足运动强度设计以及穿着舒适度等需求。
具体实施方式
下面结合具体实施方式对本发明进行详细描述。
实施例1
本实施例涉及一种仿牛仔面料的制造工艺，包括：
S1，将经织造、退浆的基材清水浸轧定型，保证基材布面平整；
S2，将上述基材高温焙烘干燥，焙烘温度为170℃，焙烘时间为25S；
S3，刮涂涂料色浆，再次高温焙烘将色浆固着在基材上，得到仿牛仔面料；所述高温焙烘温度为160℃，时间为30S。
所述色浆采用靛蓝色涂料，该涂料搅拌时尽可能慢且温度不可超过35℃，否则涂料会分层且是不可逆的过程。
本实施例涉及一种防水保湿型仿牛仔面料，采用上述仿牛仔面料经防水处理并贴合有透湿膜和里布。
所述防水处理采用带液率30％～50％无氟类型的防水剂对仿牛仔面料浸轧、干燥再焙烘，干燥温度为110℃、时间为36S，焙烘温度为160℃、时间为2min。
所述贴合包括以下步骤：
a.通过导管将胶水导至料槽，通过雕花辊将胶水转移到仿牛仔面料一侧表面上；
b.然后通过橡胶压辊，将仿牛仔面料与低透，中透，高透膜和涤纶或尼龙里布。
c.使整个布面保持平整，反应48h，反应室环境：温度23℃，65％湿度，而后打卷，检验。
所述胶水采用PU热熔胶，粘度12000MPA，其具有防渗透能力，贴合后柔软，耐水洗性优良；贴合温度不可超过130℃，优选地采用100℃。
所述橡胶轧辊的压力为5MPa，流水线车速为10m/min。
本实施例可贴合不同的膜和里布，能够广泛用于服装、鞋材、床上用品、睡袋等产品中。
例如1，制成运动休闲外套面料；其面布材质及规格为65％涤纶&35％棉，21S*21S，密度166T，克重200g/m2；成品布克重205g/m2，C6防水4级，家庭洗衣机40℃条件下洗涤45min，40℃滚筒烘干。
例如2，制成运动套装面料；其面布材质及规格为65％涤纶&35％棉，21S*21S，密度166T，克重200g/m2，采用100％涤纶&12Daniel网眼布、克重28g/m2的里布，或者采用100％涤纶&75Daniel摇粒绒、克重145g/m2的里布；成品布克重分别为270g/m2、390g/m2，C6防水4级，家庭洗衣机40℃条件下洗涤45min，40℃滚筒烘干。
需要强调的是：以上仅是本发明的较佳实施例而已，并非对本发明作任何形式上的限制，凡是依据本发明的技术实质对以上实施例所作的任何简单修改、等同变化与修饰，均仍属于本发明技术方案的范围内。

Claims (10)

1.一种仿牛仔面料的制造工艺，其特征在于，包括：
S1，将经织造、退浆的基材清水浸轧定型，保证基材布面平整；
S2，将上述基材高温焙烘干燥，焙烘温度为160～170℃，焙烘时间为20～30S；
S3，刮涂涂料色浆，再次高温焙烘将色浆固着在基材上，得到仿牛仔面料；所述高温焙烘温度为160～170℃，焙烘时间为25～30S。
2.根据权利要求1所述仿牛仔面料的制造工艺，其特征是，所述基材采用聚酯成分或尼龙成分的混纺面料、交织面料、梭织面料、针织面料、网眼布中的任意一种。
3.根据权利要求1所述仿牛仔面料的制造工艺，其特征是，所述色浆为聚酯类涂料、颜料涂料中的任意一种。
4.根据权利要求3所述仿牛仔面料的制造工艺，其特征是，所述颜料涂料采用INDIGO涂料。
5.一种防水保湿型仿牛仔面料，其特征在于，包括采用权利要求1～4任一项所述制造工艺制得的仿牛仔面料经防水处理并贴合有透湿膜和里布。
6.根据权利要求5所述防水保湿型仿牛仔面料，其特征是，所述透湿膜为低透膜、中透膜、高透膜中的任意一种。
7.根据权利要求5所述防水保湿型仿牛仔面料，其特征是，所述里布采用涤纶或尼龙。
8.根据权利要求5所述防水保湿型仿牛仔面料，其特征是，所述防水处理采用带液率30％～50％的氟碳类丙烯酸酯类或者无氟类型的防水剂对仿牛仔面料浸轧、干燥再焙烘；干燥温度为100～120℃、时间为20～40S，焙烘温度为140～160℃、时间为1～3min。
9.根据权利要求5所述防水保湿型仿牛仔面料，其特征是，所述贴合包括以下步骤：
a.通过导管将胶水导至料槽，通过雕花辊将胶水转移到仿牛仔面料一侧表面上；
b.然后通过橡胶压辊，将仿牛仔面料与透湿膜和里布层层贴合；
c.使整个布面保持平整，反应48h；反应室环境：温度23℃，65％湿度，而后打卷，检验。
10.根据权利要求9所述防水保湿型仿牛仔面料，其特征是，所述橡胶轧辊的压力为2～5MPa，流水线车速为10～30m/min。
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Cited By (2)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN111705518A (zh) * 2020-06-04 2020-09-25 广东前进牛仔布有限公司 一种仿旧牛仔面料的制备方法及设备
CN114808322A (zh) * 2022-04-29 2022-07-29 康帝雅高档面料（苏州）有限公司 一种环保不染色面料及其制备工艺

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