CN108703911B - Composition with moisturizing and whitening effects and preparation method and application thereof - Google Patents

Composition with moisturizing and whitening effects and preparation method and application thereof Download PDF

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CN108703911B
CN108703911B CN201810907174.4A CN201810907174A CN108703911B CN 108703911 B CN108703911 B CN 108703911B CN 201810907174 A CN201810907174 A CN 201810907174A CN 108703911 B CN108703911 B CN 108703911B
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moisturizing
extraction
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CN108703911A (en
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黄倩
陈庆生
王银娘
郭宏霞
朱灿
龚盛昭
毛昭庆
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Foshan boshinio Biotechnology Co., Ltd
Guangdong Zhuo Ming Shi Biotechnology Co., Ltd.
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Guangdong Zhuomingshi Biotechnology Co ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67Vitamins
    • A61K8/673Vitamin B group
    • A61K8/675Vitamin B3 or vitamin B3 active, e.g. nicotinamide, nicotinic acid, nicotinyl aldehyde
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/735Mucopolysaccharides, e.g. hyaluronic acid; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61PSPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
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    • A61P17/10Anti-acne agents
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08Anti-ageing preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/74Biological properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/78Enzyme modulators, e.g. Enzyme agonists
    • A61K2800/782Enzyme inhibitors; Enzyme antagonists

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Abstract

The invention provides a composition with moisturizing and whitening effects, which is prepared from the following components in parts by weight: 50-80 parts of small molecular group magnetized water, 0.1-10 parts of nicotinamide, 0.1-10 parts of tranexamic acid, 1-10 parts of serissa serissoide extract, 1-10 parts of glycyrrhiza glabra extract, 0.01-1 part of sodium hyaluronate and other appropriate auxiliary agents. Experiments prove that the composition with the effects of moisturizing and whitening plays a remarkable synergistic role among the components, the active ingredients of the composition can be quickly permeated and absorbed, the skin moisture is effectively improved, the tyrosinase activity is inhibited, the pigmentation is reduced, and the composition also has the effects of inhibiting acne, smoothing fine lines and improving the gloss to a certain extent.

Description

Composition with moisturizing and whitening effects and preparation method and application thereof
Technical Field
The invention relates to the field of cosmetics, and mainly relates to a composition with moisturizing and whitening effects.
Background
Tender, fine, healthy and fair skin is a focus of attention of most Asian women, cosmetics with moisturizing and whitening functions are more and more favored by women, and research on components with moisturizing and whitening effects is one of key points of basic research on skin care.
At present, moisturizing cosmetics in the market mainly reduce evaporation loss of moisture by adding moisturizing components to form a film on the surface of skin, can play a moisturizing effect to a certain extent, cannot fundamentally solve the problem of water shortage of the skin, and can bring discomfort such as greasiness. The whitening cosmetics mainly contain arbutin, vitamin C and derivatives thereof and other components with whitening and antioxidant effects, but are gradually exposed to the problems of poor absorption, instability, strong stimulation, unobvious effect and the like in the use process. Therefore, the development of cosmetic raw materials with high safety level, good absorption effect, strong stability and mild property becomes a focus of attention of cosmetic research and development organizations and production enterprises in recent years.
Disclosure of Invention
Aiming at the vacancy and technical defects of the existing market, the invention provides the composition with the effects of moisturizing and whitening, through screening and reasonable proportioning of raw materials with the skin-care effect, the components play a remarkable synergistic effect, the active ingredients of the composition can be quickly permeated and absorbed, the skin moisture is effectively improved, the tyrosinase activity is inhibited, the pigmentation is reduced, and the effects of inhibiting acne, smoothing fine lines and improving the luster are achieved to a certain extent.
In a first aspect, the invention provides a composition with moisturizing and whitening effects, which is prepared from the following components in parts by weight: 30-90 parts of small molecular group magnetized water, 1-20 parts of nicotinamide, 1-20 parts of tranexamic acid, 1-10 parts of serissa serissoides extract, 1-10 parts of glycyrrhiza glabra extract, 1-10 parts of salvia miltiorrhiza extract, 0.01-1 part of sodium hyaluronate and other appropriate auxiliary agents. The small cluster magnetized Water (OH radial Water, Alkaline Water) is purchased from KunumulCorp., Korea, classification number (CASNO): Water 7732-18-5.
Preferably, the sodium hyaluronate is small-molecule sodium hyaluronate with the molecular weight ranging from 5000Da to 10000 Da.
In the invention, in the process of long-term production research, the inventor deeply knows that the cosmetic raw materials have effective components for moisturizing, whitening and brightening and promoting skin absorption, and achieves good synergy through reasonable compounding.
In the composition, the natural water is subjected to sufficient magnetic treatment to form small molecular group water consisting of 5-8 water molecules, and according to the description in the compendium of materia medica, the magnetic treatment water has the peculiar effects of 'removing sore phlegm and growing skin', has strong diffusion, strong permeation and strong dissolving capacity, is easily absorbed and utilized by human cells, improves the transmission and supply of nutrient substances of the whole body, promotes the elimination of metabolites and toxins, and improves the transportation capacity of oxygen of the whole body; niacinamide is a basic vitamin supplement in clinical dermatology treatment, is widely used for treating photosensitive dermatitis, acne and the like, has good curative effects on the aspects of melanin pigmentation inhibition, inflammation resistance and the like, and is used for reducing the generated and precipitated melanin, blocking the melanin from transferring to surface cells, accelerating cell metabolism, accelerating the shedding of melanin keratinocytes and the like besides the traditional whitening effect; tranexamic acid has the pharmacological effects of resisting plasmin, stopping bleeding, resisting allergy, resisting inflammation and the like, is widely used, and has a remarkable effect superior to that of vitamin C in clinical chloasma fading; the serissa serissoide is bitter in taste, slightly sweet and cool in nature, has the functions of dispelling wind and removing dampness, clearing heat and removing toxicity, relieving swelling and drawing out pus, relieving cough and reducing sputum, strengthening spleen and stopping bleeding, and has stronger effects of inhibiting tyrosinase activity and inhibiting melanoma proliferation; liquorice is listed as the top grade from Shen nong Ben Cao Jing, and has the functions of easing pain, relieving cough, resisting inflammation, ulcer and allergic reaction, enhancing the immune function of the organism, whitening skin, removing oxygen radicals and the like; the salvia miltiorrhiza is bitter in taste and slightly cold in property, has the effects of activating blood and cooling blood, and removing freckles and scars, is especially used for treating diseases with damage, and can be used for treating acne, rosacea, facial spots, scars and the like; the sodium hyaluronate can play a unique role in protecting skin, can keep the skin moist, smooth, fine, tender and elastic, has the functions of preventing wrinkles, resisting wrinkles, beautifying, protecting health and recovering the physiological function of the skin, and the small molecular hyaluronic acid can directly permeate into dermis to participate in skin metabolism.
The active ingredients can be quickly absorbed by penetration, effectively improve skin moisture, inhibit tyrosinase activity, reduce pigmentation, and have the effects of inhibiting acne, smoothing fine lines and improving luster.
Preferably, the composition with the moisturizing and whitening effects is prepared from the following components in parts by weight: 44.5 small molecular group magnetized water, 20 nicotinamide, 20 tranexamic acid, 5 serissa serissoides extract, 5 glycyrrhiza glabra extract, 5 salvia miltiorrhiza extract, 0.5 sodium hyaluronate, and other appropriate auxiliary agents such as EDAT-2Na, phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerin and the like.
Preferably, the composition with the moisturizing and whitening effects is prepared from the following components in parts by weight: small molecular group magnetized water 39, nicotinamide 15, tranexamic acid 15, serissa serissoides extract 10, glycyrrhiza glabra extract 10, salvia miltiorrhiza extract 10, sodium hyaluronate 1, and other appropriate auxiliary agents such as EDAT-2Na, phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerin and the like.
Preferably, the composition with the moisturizing and whitening effects is prepared from the following components in parts by weight: small molecular group magnetized water 39, nicotinamide 15, tranexamic acid 20, serissa serissoides extract 5, glycyrrhiza glabra extract 10, salvia miltiorrhiza extract 10, sodium hyaluronate 1, and other appropriate auxiliary agents such as EDAT-2Na, phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerin and the like.
In a second aspect, the invention provides a preparation method of a composition with moisturizing and whitening effects.
The preparation method of the serissa serissoide extract comprises the steps of removing impurities, cleaning, cutting into small sections of 1-3 cm, drying and crushing at 60 ℃, sieving with a 80-mesh sieve, adding small molecular group magnetized water to soak for 0.5-2 h, carrying out ultrasonic extraction for 20-60 min at the material-liquid ratio of 1: 5-1: 15, carrying out extraction for 1-3 times at the extraction temperature of 30-50 ℃ at the extraction power of 200-800W, and combining filtrates to obtain the serissa serissoide extract.
The preparation method of the glycyrrhiza glabra extract comprises the steps of removing impurities from liquorice, cleaning, moistening, cutting into uniform slices with the thickness of about 5mm, drying at 100 ℃ to balance weight, heating a honey solution with the mass fraction of 65% to boiling, pouring liquorice pieces into the honey solution, quickly stir-frying until honey juice is uniformly adhered, quickly stir-frying the liquorice pieces and the honey solution in a mass ratio of 3: 1-5: 1 until the liquorice is golden yellow, cooling, drying, crushing, sieving with a 100-mesh sieve, adding small molecular group magnetized water for extraction, extracting for 1-3 hours with ultrasonic extraction power of 200-800W at the extraction temperature of 25-45 ℃ for 1-3 times, and combining filtrates to obtain the glycyrrhiza glabra extract.
The preparation method of the salvia miltiorrhiza extract comprises the steps of removing impurities from salvia miltiorrhiza, cleaning, slicing, drying at 60 ℃ to constant weight, adding 10-30% ethanol solution, uniformly stirring, moistening until the mixture is thoroughly mixed, wherein the material-liquid ratio is 3: 1-7: 1, drying at 40-50 ℃, crushing after cooling, sieving with a 100-mesh sieve, adding small molecular group magnetized water for extraction, wherein the solid-liquid ratio is 1: 5-1: 15, carrying out ultrasonic extraction for 0.5-2 h, the extraction power is 200-800W, the extraction temperature is 30-50 ℃, extracting for 1-3 times, and combining filtrates to obtain the salvia miltiorrhiza extract.
The honey is any one of date honey, sophora flower honey and linden honey.
The preparation method of the composition comprises the steps of mixing the components according to the dosage, heating at 40-80 ℃ to dissolve the nicotinamide, the tranexamic acid and the sodium hyaluronate, adding the serissa serissoide extract, the glycyrrhiza glabra extract and the salvia miltiorrhiza extract at normal temperature, and stirring to be uniform.
The third object of the present invention is to apply the composition having moisturizing and whitening effects as described in the second object to cosmetics.
The application of the traditional Chinese medicine composition in preparation of cosmetics is characterized in that the cosmetics contain the traditional Chinese medicine composition, and the addition amount of the traditional Chinese medicine composition is 0.5-10% by mass.
Preferably, the traditional Chinese medicine composition is applied to preparation of cosmetics, and is characterized in that the cosmetics contain the traditional Chinese medicine composition, and the adding amount of the traditional Chinese medicine composition is 1-5% by mass.
The fourth purpose of the invention is to provide a cosmetic, which contains the traditional Chinese medicine composition as the second purpose;
preferably, the cosmetic is prepared into facial mask, essence, cream, lotion or BB cream, preferably essence.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following advantages:
(1) the raw materials in the composition are reasonably compounded and synergized, the moisturizing and whitening effects of the raw materials are exerted to the maximum extent, and the effects are more remarkable than those of a single component.
(2) The traditional Chinese medicine ingredients are processed and then extracted, so that the medicine property, the pharmacological action and the active ingredients of the traditional Chinese medicine are greatly improved, the extraction amount of the chemical active ingredients such as the flavonoids, the polysaccharides, the polyphenols, the alkaloids and the like in the raw materials is greatly improved, and the irritation is effectively reduced.
(3) According to the invention, the small molecular group magnetized water is used for replacing deionized water, so that the extracted substance is high in dissolution amount, the extraction rate is improved, the effective components in the product can be absorbed by skin more easily, and the effects of permeating intracellular participation and metabolism are achieved.
(4) The composition disclosed by the invention is simple in preparation process, convenient to use, short in production period and beneficial to popularization and application.
(5) Experiments prove that the composition can be quickly absorbed by penetration when being used in cosmetics, effectively improves skin moisture, inhibits tyrosinase activity, reduces pigmentation, and has certain effects of inhibiting acne, smoothing fine lines and improving luster.
Detailed Description
To further illustrate the technical means and effects of the present invention, the following further describes the technical solution of the present invention with reference to the preferred embodiments of the present invention, but the present invention is not limited to the scope of the embodiments.
Example 1A composition (I) having moisturizing and whitening effects
A composition with moisturizing and whitening effects is prepared from the following components in parts by weight: 44.5 small molecular group magnetized water, 20 nicotinamide, 20 tranexamic acid, 5 serissa serissoides extract, 5 glycyrrhiza glabra extract, 5 salvia miltiorrhiza extract, 0.5 sodium hyaluronate, and other appropriate auxiliary agents such as EDAT-2Na, phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerin and the like.
The small cluster magnetized Water (OH radial Water, Alkaline Water) was purchased from KunumulCorp, Korea, under the CAS No. Water 7732-18-5.
The sodium hyaluronate is small molecule sodium hyaluronate with molecular weight range of 5000 Da-10000 Da.
The preparation method of the serissa serissoide extract comprises the steps of removing impurities, cleaning, cutting into small segments of 1cm, drying at 60 ℃, crushing, sieving with a 80-mesh sieve, adding small molecular group magnetized water, soaking for 1h at a material-liquid ratio of 1:8, carrying out ultrasonic extraction for 30min at an extraction power of 250W and an extraction temperature of 35 ℃, extracting for 2 times, and combining filtrates to obtain the serissa serissoide extract.
The preparation method of the glycyrrhiza glabra extract comprises the steps of removing impurities from liquorice, cleaning, moistening, cutting into uniform slices with the thickness of about 5mm, drying at 100 ℃ to balance weight, heating a 65% linden honey solution by mass fraction to boil, pouring liquorice slices into the honey solution, quickly stir-frying until honey is uniformly adhered, enabling the liquorice and the honey solution to be in a mass ratio of 3:1, quickly stir-frying until the liquorice is golden yellow, cooling, drying, crushing, sieving by a 100-mesh sieve, adding small molecular group magnetized water for extraction, enabling the solid-to-liquid ratio to be 1:15, carrying out ultrasonic extraction for 2 hours, enabling the extraction power to be 400W, enabling the extraction temperature to be 40 ℃, extracting for 2 times, and combining filtrates to obtain the glycyrrhiza glabra extract.
The preparation method of the salvia miltiorrhiza extract comprises the steps of removing impurities from salvia miltiorrhiza, cleaning, slicing, drying at 60 ℃ to constant weight, adding 15% ethanol solution, uniformly stirring, moistening till the mixture is thoroughly mixed, wherein the material-liquid ratio is 5:1, drying at 40-50 ℃, cooling, crushing, sieving with a 100-mesh sieve, adding small molecular group magnetized water for extraction, wherein the solid-liquid ratio is 1:10, carrying out ultrasonic extraction for 1 hour, the extraction power is 400W, the extraction temperature is 35 ℃, extracting for 2 times, and combining filtrates to obtain the salvia miltiorrhiza extract.
The preparation method of the composition comprises mixing the above components at a certain dosage, heating at 60 deg.C to dissolve nicotinamide, tranexamic acid and sodium hyaluronate, adding Serissa serissoides extract, Glycyrrhiza glabra extract and Salvia miltiorrhiza extract at room temperature, and stirring to obtain a uniform phase.
Example 2A composition having moisturizing and whitening effects (II)
A composition with moisturizing and whitening effects is prepared from the following components in parts by weight: small molecular group magnetized water 39, nicotinamide 15, tranexamic acid 15, serissa serissoides extract 10, glycyrrhiza glabra extract 10, salvia miltiorrhiza extract 10, sodium hyaluronate 1, and other appropriate auxiliary agents such as EDAT-2Na, phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerin and the like.
The small cluster magnetized Water (OH radial Water, Alkaline Water) was purchased from KunumulCorp, Korea, under the CAS No. Water 7732-18-5.
The serissa serissoide extract, glycyrrhiza glabra extract and salviae miltiorrhizae extract are the same as in example 1.
The sodium hyaluronate is small molecule sodium hyaluronate with molecular weight range of 5000 Da-10000 Da.
The preparation method of the composition comprises mixing the above components at a certain dosage, heating at 45 deg.C to dissolve nicotinamide, tranexamic acid and sodium hyaluronate, adding Serissa serissoides extract, Glycyrrhiza glabra extract and Salvia miltiorrhiza extract at room temperature, and stirring to obtain a uniform phase.
Example 3A composition (III) having moisturizing and whitening effects
A composition with moisturizing and whitening effects is prepared from the following components in parts by weight: small molecular group magnetized water 39, nicotinamide 15, tranexamic acid 20, serissa serissoides extract 5, glycyrrhiza glabra extract 10, salvia miltiorrhiza extract 10, sodium hyaluronate 1, and other appropriate auxiliary agents such as EDAT-2Na, phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerin and the like.
The small cluster magnetized Water (OH radial Water, Alkaline Water) was purchased from KunumulCorp, Korea, under the CAS No. Water 7732-18-5.
The serissa serissoide extract, glycyrrhiza glabra extract and salviae miltiorrhizae extract are the same as in example 1.
The sodium hyaluronate is small molecule sodium hyaluronate with molecular weight range of 5000 Da-10000 Da.
The preparation method of the composition comprises mixing the above components at a certain dosage, heating at 50 deg.C to dissolve nicotinamide, tranexamic acid and sodium hyaluronate, adding Serissa serissoides extract, Glycyrrhiza glabra extract and Salvia miltiorrhiza extract at room temperature, and stirring to obtain a uniform phase.
Example 4A moisturizing and whitening essence (I)
An essence having moisturizing and whitening effects is shown in table 1.
TABLE 1
Figure BDA0001760919240000041
Figure BDA0001760919240000051
The preparation method comprises the following steps:
(1) and stirring and dispersing the component A uniformly at normal temperature to obtain an oil phase.
(2) And (3) putting the component B raw material into an emulsifying pot, and dissolving and dispersing uniformly at 60-80 ℃.
(3) And adding the oil phase into the water phase at a constant speed under the stirring condition, wherein the time is taken for 1.0-3.0 minutes. And after the addition is finished, emulsifying for 3-5 minutes at the homogenizing speed of 3000-6000 rpm. And starting stirring at 300-600 rpm after emulsification is finished.
(4) And cooling to 40 ℃, adding the component C into an emulsifying pot, and emulsifying for 1-3 minutes at a homogenizing speed of 3000-6000 rpm.
(5) Stirring, vacuumizing, cooling to 35 deg.C, testing color, pH, fragrance, appearance, etc., and filtering with 200 mesh filter.
Example 5A moisturizing and whitening essence (II)
An essence having moisturizing and whitening effects is shown in table 2.
TABLE 2
Figure BDA0001760919240000052
Figure BDA0001760919240000061
The preparation method comprises the following steps:
(1) stirring and dissolving the component A at the temperature of 60-80 ℃, and homogenizing and dispersing uniformly at the homogenizing speed of 3000-6000 rpm.
(2) And cooling to 40 ℃, putting the component B raw material into an emulsifying pot, and emulsifying for 1-3 minutes at a homogenizing speed of 3000-6000 rpm.
(3) Stirring, vacuumizing, cooling to 35 deg.C, testing color, pH, fragrance, appearance, etc., and filtering with 200 mesh filter.
Example 6A moisturizing and whitening essence (III)
An essence having moisturizing and whitening effects is shown in table 3.
TABLE 3
Figure BDA0001760919240000062
The preparation method comprises the following steps:
(1) and stirring and dispersing the component A uniformly at normal temperature to obtain an oil phase.
(2) And (3) putting the component B raw material into an emulsifying pot, and dissolving and dispersing uniformly at 60-80 ℃.
(3) And adding the oil phase into the water phase at a constant speed under the stirring condition, wherein the time is taken for 1.0-3.0 minutes. And after the addition is finished, emulsifying for 3-5 minutes at the homogenizing speed of 3000-6000 rpm. And starting stirring at 300-600 rpm after emulsification is finished.
(4) And cooling to 40 ℃, adding the component C into an emulsifying pot, and emulsifying for 1-3 minutes at a homogenizing speed of 3000-6000 rpm.
(5) Stirring, vacuumizing, cooling to 35 deg.C, testing color, pH, fragrance, appearance, etc., and filtering with 200 mesh filter.
Comparative examples 1 to 7 use of Single raw Material
Respectively taking single raw materials: small cluster magnetized water, nicotinamide, tranexamic acid, serissa serissoides extract, glycyrrhiza glabra extract, salvia miltiorrhiza extract, and sodium hyaluronate were used as comparative examples 1 to 7.
Comparative example 8 unprocessed Chinese medicinal Material
The preparation method of the serissa serissoide extract comprises the steps of removing impurities, cleaning, drying, crushing, sieving with a 80-mesh sieve, adding small molecular group magnetized water, soaking for 1h at a material-liquid ratio of 1:8, carrying out ultrasonic extraction for 30min at an extraction power of 250W and an extraction temperature of 35 ℃, extracting for 2 times, and combining filtrates to obtain the serissa serissoide extract.
The preparation method of the Glycyrrhiza glabra extract comprises the steps of removing impurities from Glycyrrhiza glabra, cleaning, drying, crushing, sieving with a 100-mesh sieve, adding into small molecular group magnetized water for extraction, wherein the solid-liquid ratio is 1:15, carrying out ultrasonic extraction for 2 hours, the extraction power is 400W, the extraction temperature is 40 ℃, extracting for 2 times, and combining filtrates to obtain the Glycyrrhiza glabra extract.
The preparation method of the radix Salviae Miltiorrhizae extract comprises removing impurities from radix Salviae Miltiorrhizae, cleaning, oven drying, pulverizing, sieving with 100 mesh sieve, extracting with small molecular group magnetized water at solid-to-liquid ratio of 1:10 under ultrasonic condition for 1 hr, extracting at 35 deg.C and power of 400W for 2 times, and mixing filtrates.
Compared to example 1, the conditions were the same as example 1 except that the three herbal extracts were extracted in the above manner.
Comparative example 9 composition prepared using deionized water
The conditions were the same as in example 1 except that the small cluster magnetized water was changed to deionized water, as compared with example 1.
Comparative examples 10 to 16 moisturizing and whitening essence using single raw material
The same conditions as in example 4 were used except that a composition (i) having moisturizing and whitening effects was changed to comparative examples 1 to 7, compared to example 4.
Comparative example 17 moisturizing and whitening essence prepared using deionized water
The same conditions as in example 4 were used, except that a composition (i) having moisturizing and whitening effects was changed to comparative example 9, compared to example 4.
Comparative example 18 general essence
The same conditions as in example 4 were used except that a composition (i) having moisturizing and whitening effects was not added, compared to example 4.
Test example 1 efficacy test for inhibiting tyrosinase and scavenging DPPH free radicals
1.1 test specimens
Solutions of examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 9 were prepared at a concentration of 1 g/L.
1.2 principle of the experiment
Tyrosinase is a key enzyme in melanin production, and controls the activity of melanin formation, and the degree of activity plays a major role in pigment deposition. Many whitening products sold in the market at present achieve the whitening effect by inhibiting tyrosinase, so the strength of the tyrosinase inhibition effect is a main index for evaluating whitening cosmetics.
The method for eliminating DPPH free radicals is adopted to evaluate the in-vitro antioxidant performance of the sample, and the ethanol solution of the sample has the maximum absorption at the wavelength of 517nm and is purple. When the free radical scavenger exists, the free radical scavenger is paired with electrons of the free radical scavenger, so that the ultraviolet absorption intensity is weakened or even disappears, and the fading degree is in direct proportion to the quantity of the accepted electrons. Therefore, the antioxidant activity of the sample can be evaluated by measuring the change in absorbance.
1.3 Experimental methods
(1) The specific experimental steps for inhibiting tyrosinase activity are as follows:
adding samples according to the table 4, and placing the solution in a water bath at 37 ℃ for constant temperature for 10 min; adding tyrosinase, keeping the solution in a water bath at 37 deg.C for 10min, and measuring absorbance at 475 nm.
TABLE 4
Components of reaction solution Blank control Blank space Sample controls Sample (I)
Sample solution/mL - - 1.0 1.0
PBS(pH=6.8)/mL 3.0 2.0 2.0 1.0
L-tyrosine/mL 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0
tyrosinase/mL - 1.0 - 1.0
Total volume/mL 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0
Calculating the formula: tyrosinase activity inhibition rate ═ 1- (A2/A1) ] × 100%
In the formula: a1 is the absorbance value of the blank; a2 is the absorbance value of the sample.
(2) The specific experimental steps of the DPPH free radical scavenging experiment are as follows:
taking three PE tubes, adding 2ml of deionized water into one PE tube, adding 2ml of to-be-detected liquid into the other two PE tubes respectively, marking the two PE tubes as i, j and k, sequentially adding 2ml of DPPH solution into the i tube and the j tube, adding 2ml of absolute ethyl alcohol into the k tube, uniformly mixing, keeping the mixture in the dark for 30min, and sequentially measuring the absorbance of the mixture at the wavelength of 517nm by using an ultraviolet spectrophotometer.
The clearance calculation formula is: the clearance (%) [1- (Aj-Ak)/Ai ]. times.100%
In the formula: ai is the absorbance of a DPPH ethanol solution; aj is the absorbance of the solution to be detected for removing free radicals; ak is the absorbance of the solution to be detected.
1.4 results of the experiment
TABLE 5
Test sample Tyrosinase inhibition% DPPH radical scavenging Rate%
Example 1 94.2% 83.9%
Example 2 89.1% 96.4%
Example 3 91.4% 92.2%
Comparative example 1 —— ——
Comparative example 2 26.6% 53.6%
Comparative example 3 76.8% 47.4%
Comparative example 4 34.7% 46.5%
Comparative example 5 44.3% 36.2%
Comparative example 6 49.1% 45.7%
Comparative example 7 87.4% 75.3%
Comparative example 8 84.7% 79.4%
Comparative example 9 —— ——
The experimental results show that: the embodiments 1 to 3 of the present invention have a significant tyrosinase activity inhibiting effect and a DPPH radical scavenging effect, which are significantly superior to other comparative examples, that is, the whitening and antioxidant effects of the composition of the present invention are superior to those of the composition prepared from a single raw material, a composition prepared from a Chinese medicinal material without being processed, and deionized water, which fully indicates that the synergistic effect between the raw materials of the composition of the present invention is significant.
Test example 2 percutaneous absorption Rate test
2.1 samples
Examples 1-3 were prepared with small cluster magnetized water and comparative example 9 was prepared with deionized water, respectively, and the following tests were performed.
2.2 principle of the experiment
Even though the effective components in the cosmetics have good efficacy in vitro experiments, the transdermal condition of each raw material is different due to the absorption effect of the skin, and whether the effective components can be absorbed by the skin to act on a target skin layer cannot be ensured, so the transdermal transmission capability of the active components needs to be paid great attention, and the transdermal transmission capability directly influences whether the cosmetics can act on the epidermis or even the dermis to exert the efficacy.
2.3 Experimental methods
The most common method of cosmetic in vitro transdermal test, the diffusion cell method, is used to investigate the transdermal penetration and absorption capability of the active ingredient from the penetration kinetics. And (3) carrying out a transdermal test by taking nicotinamide as a detection index, and measuring the accumulated transdermal quantity of the transdermal test for 8 hours after 0.5, 1, 2, 4, 6 and 8 hours of the transdermal test.
2.4 results of the experiment
TABLE 6 cumulative transdermal amounts of Nicotinamide (/ μ g/cm)2)
Time/h Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Comparative example 9
0.5 9.486 9.232 9.125 8.547
1 13.452 12.986 13.024 10.242
2 21.822 20.984 21.324 18.475
4 35.529 33.467 34.822 30.528
6 45.111 42.627 43.694 38.756
8 52.890 50.491 51.423 45.689
It can be seen from the experimental data that the cumulative skin numbers of the examples were greater than the comparative examples, i.e., the permeability of the same raw material prepared into a solution with small molecular group water was greater than the permeability of a solution prepared with ordinary distilled water. Since small molecular group water more easily enters cells and has better permeability, the small molecular group water can promote permeation and absorption of active ingredients.
Test example 3 evaluation of moisturizing Effect
3.1 preparation of the samples
Examples 4 to 6 and comparative examples 10 to 18 were prepared, respectively.
3.2 principle of the experiment
The moisture retention effect test adopts the accepted method in the world
Figure BDA0001760919240000091
The farad-capacitance method has gained wide acceptance internationally. The higher the moisture content of the skin, the lower the TEWL value of the skin moisture loss. The skin moisture test provides for the evaluation of the moisturizing efficacy of the product.
3.3 preparation of the earlier stage of the experiment
Selecting 60 dry skin people with the age of 20-45 years. Any product (cosmetics or external medicines or internal health care products) cannot be used for 15 days before the tested part. Before the test, the subject was asked to wash and cleanse the face and sit still for 30min in a constant temperature and humidity room at a temperature of 22 + -1 deg.C and a humidity of 50 + -5% 2 hours after the washing, and to maintain a relaxed state.
3.4 Experimental methods
The mixture is kept at a constant temperature (22 +/-1 ℃) and a relative humidity of 50 +/-5% for 1 hour after rest. According to (2.0 +/-0.1) mg/cm2Amount the examples and comparative examples were painted on the inside of the forearm (4 cm. times.4 cm) of the left hand and the inside of the right forearm (4 cm. times.4 cm) of the subject, and the blank (no paint) was tested simultaneously. The hydration status of the skin was tested at 2 hours, 4 hours, 6 hours, and 8 hours after application of the sample. The evaluation results are represented by the average value of degrees of hydration and are shown in Table 7.
TABLE 7 Experimental test results Change Rate (%)
Figure BDA0001760919240000101
The data in table 7 show that the results of skin hydration and TEWL clearly compare the efficacy of the examples to the comparative examples (comparative example 16 is a high concentration sodium hyaluronate sample with very strong moisture retention and is not in the scope of discussion). The embodiments 4 to 6 of the present invention have the effects of increasing the water content of the skin and moisturizing, and are significantly superior to other comparative examples, that is, the moisturizing effect of the composition of the present invention is superior to that of a composition prepared from a single raw material, a composition without processed traditional Chinese medicines, and deionized water, which fully shows that the synergistic effect among the raw materials of the composition of the present invention is significant.
Test example 4 human dermal melanocyte inhibition test
4.1 preparation of the samples
Solutions of examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 9 were prepared at a concentration of 1g/L and an arbutin solution of 0.1g/L, respectively. 4.2 principle of the experiment
The dendritic cells for synthesizing and secreting melanin have the function of producing and delivering the secreted melanin to nearby skin cells, and if the melanocytes are reasonably inhibited, the generation of the melanin and the regulation process of the melanin can be influenced, so that the effects of lightening color spots and whitening can be achieved.
4.3 Experimental methods
Culturing primary melanocyte in normal circumcision skin at 6 × 104Each/mL was inoculated in a 96-well plate at 100. mu.L per well. The solution was changed for 24h, 200. mu.L per well. When the cells are cultured to 70-80% confluence, 200. mu.L of culture solution containing the sample is added. Arbutin 0.1g/L is selected as a positive control. 6 replicates were taken for each concentration. Adding 15 mu L MTT into each well 20h after adding the medicine, continuing culturing for 4h, discarding the supernatant, adding 150 mu L DMSO into each well, oscillating for 10min, and measuring the absorbance value on an enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA) instrument, wherein the excitation wavelength is 490nm, and the reference wavelength is 630 nm. Cell viability was calculated as follows: cell viability was ═ (experimental OD value/control OD value) × 100%.
4.4 results of the experiment
TABLE 8 Effect of samples on human skin melanocyte proliferation Rate (%)
Experimental group 24h 48h 72h
Example 1 82.35 65.12 52.67
Example 2 85.72 67.98 57.15
Example 3 83.24 66.57 56.89
Comparative example 1 100.00 100.20 106.00
Comparative example 2 85.19 72.45 68.54
Comparative example 3 89.13 74.62 64.38
Comparative example 4 98.23 86.42 79.45
Comparative example 5 95.25 84.17 76.34
Comparative example 6 93.42 82.65 72.34
Comparative example 7 101.00 102.00 111.00
Comparative example 8 86.68 73.12 62.59
Comparative example 9 87.44 78.27 65.86
Arbutin 84.60 64.18 55.67
The examples and the comparative examples have certain effects on the proliferation of the melanocytes, but the examples have obvious inhibition effect on the melanocytes, so that the cells are in a division arrest state, the increase of the number of apoptotic cells is promoted, the DNA synthesis of the melanocytes is inhibited, and finally the melanin synthesis in the melanocytes is down-regulated. The embodiment of the present invention is significantly superior to other comparative examples in that the composition of the present invention has a superior melanocyte inhibitory effect to that of the single material, the composition of the chinese medicine without processing and the composition prepared using deionized water, which fully demonstrates that the synergistic effect between the materials of the composition of the present invention is significant.
Test example 5 human body sensory evaluation test
5.1 Experimental methods
The human body sensory trial evaluation is carried out by respectively preparing examples 4-6 and comparative examples 10-18, and 60 volunteers with dry skin, dark color, dull luster and color spots are selected, and the age is 30-50 years old. Continuously using for 12 weeks, evaluating the indexes of moisturizing, inhibiting acne, whitening and brightening, smoothing fine lines and fading speckle effects in the process of using the sample, and counting the percentage of people with skin improvement degrees at different using stages;
5.2 results of the experiment
Filling a trial evaluation table according to the sensory evaluation, collecting a half-face experiment trial evaluation table, and obtaining a statistical result shown in a table 9:
TABLE 9 human trial sensory evaluation index improvement statistics (%)
Figure BDA0001760919240000111
Figure BDA0001760919240000121
As can be seen from the results of table 9, after 12 weeks of use, the subjects using the examples and comparative examples evaluated some improvement in each index of the face (moisturizing, acne-inhibiting, whitening and brightening, fine line smoothing, and spot-fading effects), but the composition of the present invention had better skin-improving effects than the single material, the composition without the Chinese medicine processing, and the composition prepared using deionized water, which fully indicates that the synergistic effects among the materials of the composition of the present invention were significant.
Therefore, the composition with the effects of moisturizing and whitening plays a remarkable synergistic effect among the components, the active ingredients of the composition can be quickly absorbed by penetration, the skin moisture is effectively improved, the tyrosinase activity is inhibited, the pigmentation is reduced, and the composition also has the effects of inhibiting acne, smoothing fine lines and improving luster.
The embodiments of the present invention have been described in detail, but the embodiments are merely examples, and the present invention is not limited to the embodiments described above. Any equivalent modifications and substitutions to those skilled in the art are also within the scope of the present invention. Accordingly, equivalent changes and modifications made without departing from the spirit and scope of the present invention should be covered by the present invention.

Claims (5)

1. The composition with the effects of moisturizing and whitening is characterized by being prepared from the following components in parts by weight: 39-44.5 parts of small molecular group magnetized water, 15-20 parts of nicotinamide, 15-20 parts of tranexamic acid, 5-10 parts of serissa serissoides extract, 5-10 parts of glycyrrhiza glabra extract, 5-10 parts of salvia miltiorrhiza extract and 0.5-1 part of sodium hyaluronate;
the preparation method of the serissa serissoide extract comprises removing impurities, cleaning, cutting into 1cm small segments, drying at 60 deg.C, pulverizing, sieving with 80 mesh sieve, soaking in small molecular group magnetized water at a material-to-liquid ratio of 1:8 for 1h, ultrasonic extracting for 30min at an extraction power of 250W and an extraction temperature of 35 deg.C for 2 times, and mixing filtrates to obtain the final product;
the preparation method of the glycyrrhiza glabra extract comprises the steps of removing impurities from liquorice, cleaning, moistening, cutting into uniform slices with the thickness of 5mm, drying at 100 ℃ to balance weight, heating a Tilia Miqueliana honey solution with the mass fraction of 65% to boil, pouring liquorice slices into the Tilia Miqueliana honey solution, quickly stir-frying until honeydew is uniformly adhered, enabling the liquorice and the honey solution to be in a mass ratio of 3:1, quickly stir-frying until the liquorice is golden yellow, cooling, drying, crushing, sieving by a 100-mesh sieve, adding small molecular group magnetized water for extraction, enabling the solid-liquid ratio to be 1:15, carrying out ultrasonic extraction for 2 hours, enabling the extraction power to be 400W, enabling the extraction temperature to be 40 ℃, extracting for 2 times, and combining;
the preparation method of the salvia miltiorrhiza extract comprises the steps of removing impurities from salvia miltiorrhiza, cleaning, slicing, drying at 60 ℃ to constant weight, adding 15% ethanol solution, uniformly stirring, moistening till the mixture is thoroughly mixed, wherein the material-liquid ratio is 5:1, drying at 40-50 ℃, cooling, crushing, sieving with a 100-mesh sieve, adding small molecular group magnetized water for extraction, wherein the solid-liquid ratio is 1:10, carrying out ultrasonic extraction for 1 hour, the extraction power is 400W, the extraction temperature is 35 ℃, extracting for 2 times, and combining filtrates to obtain the salvia miltiorrhiza extract.
2. A method for preparing the composition with moisturizing and whitening effects according to claim 1, comprising the steps of: mixing the components according to the dosage, heating at 40-80 ℃ to dissolve nicotinamide, tranexamic acid and sodium hyaluronate, adding serissa serissoide extract, glycyrrhiza glabra extract and salvia miltiorrhiza extract at normal temperature, and stirring to be uniform.
3. The composition with moisturizing and whitening effects according to claim 1, characterized in that: the sodium hyaluronate is small molecule sodium hyaluronate with molecular weight range of 5000 Da-10000 Da.
4. The use of the composition with moisturizing and whitening effects as claimed in claim 1, wherein the composition comprises: it comprises preparing into facial mask, lotion, essence, cream, foundation solution, cosmetic water or BB cream.
5. Use according to claim 4, characterized in that: the prepared cosmetic contains the composition in an amount of 0.5-10 wt%.
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