CN108653137B

CN108653137B - Composition and application thereof in preparation of beauty cosmetics

Info

Publication number: CN108653137B
Application number: CN201810672721.5A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 戴跃锋; 康文术; 何广文; 颜少慰; 汤芬; 钱景如
Original assignee: Hunan Yujia Cosmetics Manufacturing Co ltd
Current assignee: Syoung Cosmetics Manufacturing Co Ltd
Priority date: 2018-06-26
Filing date: 2018-06-26
Publication date: 2020-11-20
Anticipated expiration: 2038-06-26
Also published as: CN108653137A

Abstract

The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to a composition (Flomiracle) and application thereof in preparing beauty cosmetics. The honeysuckle extract, the pale butterflybush flower extract, the elderberry flower extract, the rose extract, the lily extract, the magnolia sieboldii extract, the camellia extract, the snow lotus herb extract, the peony extract and the peach blossom extract are compounded, and the obtained composition is used for preparing essence of cosmetics. The essence can inhibit inflammatory factor, control oil, supplement water, keep moisture, inhibit tyrosinase activity, brighten skin color, resist oxidation, promote cell proliferation, and improve natural defense ability of skin.

Description

Composition and application thereof in preparation of beauty cosmetics

Technical Field

The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to a composition (Flomiracle) and application thereof in preparing beauty cosmetics.

Background

The beauty is good for people, and the pursuit of beauty for people is continuously improved along with the improvement of civilization. China has long-term beauty culture, can trace back to the age of the stone novelties at the earliest and is an indispensable component of human life. In the beauty culture of Chinese nation, besides the love of natural beauty, the beauty culture also love heart and beauty. Traditional Chinese medicine beauty treatment is based on the theory of traditional Chinese medicine, takes methods and medicines with traditional Chinese medicine characteristics as means, and achieves the purposes of cleaning face and beautifying skin by adjusting viscera functions and improving blood circulation. Looking up classic ancient books, a plurality of ancient mothers are deeply skilled in beautifying, and products with the function of beautifying are frequently used.

With the progress of society and the improvement of living standard of people, people are increasingly pursuing health consciousness, and as the plant active ingredients have small side effect and good efficacy, beauty products taking the plant active ingredients as main ingredients are more and more favored by consumers. The preparation of skin care products by extracting active ingredients from natural plants or Chinese medicaments attracts attention of the world.

The flower is a reproductive organ of a plant, is colorful, is in various postures, has fragrant smell and is loved by people. The expression of beauty of Chinese nationality is the appearance of beauty. According to the traditional Chinese medicine, the fresh flowers are light in texture and can easily reach the bottom layer of the skin, so that the blood circulation and the metabolism are promoted. Modern pharmacological research has provided scientific basis for the cosmetic skin care of flowers: the flowers contain various alkaloids, esters, organic acids, vitamins, trace elements and the like, and the substances have good effects of protecting skin, beautifying and beautifying. With the enhancement of the consciousness of healthy life of people, people are more and more interested in plant cosmetics and yellow hair with natural beauty, so that the people believe that flowers are used for beautifying, and the flowers are extracted and refined to beautify the face.

At present, cosmetics using plants as raw materials on the market are disordered in variety and have good and uneven quality. For analysis reasons, on the one hand, individual merchants pursue interest maximization, to be false-positive, to be inferior-positive. The more important reason is that the formula of the cosmetics is not verified further, and the components cannot play a synergistic effect well, so how to adopt plant raw materials, particularly flowers, as raw materials to develop cosmetics with good functions and improve the cosmetic effect of the cosmetics is still a hot point of current research.

Disclosure of Invention

In view of the above, the technical problem to be solved by the present invention is to provide a composition (floriracle) and its application in the preparation of cosmetic for skin care, wherein the composition has the effects of balancing water and oil, anti-inflammation, anti-oxidation, whitening and anti-aging.

The composition provided by the invention comprises the following components in percentage by mass:

in some embodiments, the composition consists of the following components in parts by mass:

in other embodiments, the composition consists of the following components in parts by mass:

the invention adopts honeysuckle, pale butterflybush flower, elderberry flower, rose, lily, magnolia sieboldii flower, camellia, snow lotus herb, peony and peach blossom as a formula of 'beautifying with flowers', and has the functions of protecting skin from light, inhibiting inflammatory factors, controlling oil, preserving moisture, inhibiting tyrosinase activity, brightening skin color, resisting oxidation, inhibiting metal protease, promoting collagen hyperplasia, accelerating blood circulation, promoting metabolism and improving natural defense capacity of skin.

The invention also provides essence which comprises glycerol, butanediol, propylene glycol, beta-glucan, oligomeric sodium hyaluronate, trehalose, nicotinamide, inositol, carnosine, arbutin and the composition.

The composition is prepared by compounding a flos lonicerae extract, a pale butterflybush flower extract, an elderberry flower extract, a rose extract, a lily extract, a magnolia sieboldii flower extract, a camellia extract, a snow lotus herb extract, a peony extract and a peach blossom extract, and the composition is used for preparing essence of cosmetics. Experiments show that the essence can have the oil content inhibition rate of 68.9%; the water loss is reduced by 6.63 to 11.9 percent; the water content of the skin is improved by 34.03 to 56.69 percent; inhibiting the release of 8.6 to 12.17 percent of inflammatory factors; compared with a blank control, the composition can improve the proliferation rate of the fibroblasts by 16.84-26.79%; and can inhibit the tyrosinase activity of 82.82% -91.29%, the free radical clearance can reach 54.19% -65.46%, and compared with a blank control 38.38%, the free radical clearance of the composition is improved by 15.81% -27.08%. The results show that the extracts are compounded with each other to jointly play a good synergistic effect, so that the effect of effectively caring the skin is realized.

The components such as glycerin, butanediol, propylene glycol and the like in the essence can be matched with the composition provided by the invention, so that the water-oil balance of the composition is further improved, the water loss is reduced, the water content of skin is improved, the expression of inflammatory factors is inhibited, the proliferation of fibroblasts is promoted, the activity of tyrosinase is reduced, and free radicals are eliminated.

Specifically, the essence provided by the invention comprises the following components in parts by mass:

in some embodiments, the essence provided by the invention comprises the following components in percentage by mass:

the essence provided by the invention also comprises water, a preservative and a thickening agent.

The preservative is PHL; the thickening agent is xanthan gum.

In the essence, the water accounts for 77.61-85.11% by weight.

Wherein the preservative is 1% by mass, and the thickener is 0.15% by mass.

The essence disclosed by the invention is applied to preparation of oil control cosmetics.

Experiments show that the essence provided by the invention can inhibit excessive production of skin grease.

The essence disclosed by the invention is applied to the preparation of moisturizing cosmetics.

Experiments show that the essence provided by the invention can inhibit the loss of skin moisture.

The essence disclosed by the invention is applied to preparation of moisturizing cosmetics.

Experiments show that the essence provided by the invention can improve the water content of skin.

The essence disclosed by the invention is applied to preparation of anti-inflammatory cosmetics.

Experiments show that the essence provided by the invention can inhibit the release of NO.

The essence disclosed by the invention is applied to preparation of anti-aging cosmetics.

Experiments show that the essence provided by the invention can improve the proliferation rate of fibroblasts.

The essence disclosed by the invention is applied to preparation of whitening cosmetics.

Experiments show that the essence provided by the invention can inhibit the activity of tyrosinase.

The essence disclosed by the invention is applied to preparation of antioxidant cosmetics.

Experiments show that the essence provided by the invention can remove free radicals.

The preparation method of the essence comprises the following steps:

mixing glycerol, butanediol, propylene glycol, oligomeric sodium hyaluronate, trehalose, beta-glucan, nicotinamide, inositol, a thickening agent and water at 75-80 ℃, and stirring for 30min at 500-600 r/min;

cooling to 55-60 ℃, adding carnosine, arbutin, a pale butterflybush flower extract, a peony flower extract, a honeysuckle flower extract, an elderberry flower extract, a magnolia sieboldii extract, a peach flower extract, a lily flower extract, a rose flower extract, a camellia flower extract, a snow lotus herb extract and stirring for 15min at the speed of 300-350 r/min;

cooling to 45-50 ℃, adding the preservative, and stirring for 10min at the speed of 150-200 r/min; and cooling to room temperature.

The room temperature is 18-30 ℃.

The invention also provides a cosmetic comprising the essence.

The cosmetic has water and oil balancing, antiinflammatory, antioxidant, skin whitening and/or antiaging effects.

The cosmetic comprises a face mask or an eye mask.

The cosmetic is facial mask, and also comprises facial mask matrix.

The honeysuckle extract, the pale butterflybush flower extract, the elderberry flower extract, the rose extract, the lily extract, the magnolia sieboldii extract, the camellia extract, the snow lotus herb extract, the peony extract and the peach blossom extract are compounded, and the obtained composition is used for preparing essence of cosmetics. The essence can inhibit inflammatory factor, control oil, supplement water, keep moisture, inhibit tyrosinase activity, brighten skin color, resist oxidation, promote cell proliferation, and improve natural defense ability of skin.

Drawings

FIG. 1 shows the effect of various samples on skin oil content;

FIG. 2 shows the effect of each sample on the amount of skin moisture loss;

FIG. 3 shows the effect of various samples on skin moisture content;

FIG. 4 shows the effect of samples on NO release;

FIG. 5 shows the effect of each sample on cell proliferation rate;

FIG. 6 shows the effect of each sample on tyrosinase activity;

FIG. 7 shows the radical scavenging rate for each sample.

Detailed Description

The invention provides a composition and application thereof in preparing beauty cosmetics, and a person skilled in the art can use the content for reference and appropriately improve the process parameters to realize the purpose. It is expressly intended that all such similar substitutes and modifications which would be obvious to one skilled in the art are deemed to be included in the invention. While the methods and applications of this invention have been described in terms of preferred embodiments, it will be apparent to those of ordinary skill in the art that variations and modifications in the methods and applications described herein, as well as other suitable variations and combinations, may be made to implement and use the techniques of this invention without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention.

The raw materials adopted by the invention are all common products sold in the market and can be purchased in the market.

Honeysuckle, also known as honeysuckle flower, is a semi-evergreen entwining shrub of the family Caprifoliaceae. The honeysuckle extract provided by the invention mainly contains chlorogenic acid, isochlorogenic acid, luteolin and saponin, can effectively inhibit staphylococcus aureus, escherichia coli, pseudomonas aeruginosa and the like, can improve the 1L-4 level, activate the nerve calpain, enhance the function of macrophages and protect collagen. The honeysuckle flower extract is prepared from honeysuckle flower in the Sanqing period of the Xiaoshajiang honeysuckle flower in the Hunan Longhui Huayao area, namely, the green buds, wherein the picking time is 9: 00-11: 00; the extract is prepared by water extraction. Through detection, the chlorogenic acid and isopropylchlorogenic acid in the extract have high active component content, and have excellent antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties.

Lilies are plants of the liliaceae family, and the petals of lilies albo-marginata are used by people due to the skin softening and healing effects of the lilies. The invention adopts flowers of white-flowered lily as raw materials, and extracts the flowers by a water extraction method to prepare a lily extract, wherein the main active ingredients in the lily extract are polysaccharide, tannin and saponin.

The flos Rosae Rugosae is the flower bud of Rosa rugosa Thunb of Rosaceae. The research shows that the rose contains the following nutrient components: flavones, organic acids, phenols, tannins, alkaloids, sugars, amino acids and proteins, and various mineral elements. The invention adopts rose flowers as raw materials, and extracts the rose flowers by a water extraction method to prepare a rose extract, wherein the extract mainly comprises the following components: rose polysaccharide, rose polyphenol and rose flavone.

Camellia (Camellia sp.) is also known as Camellia, and is a generic name for various plants and horticultural varieties of Camellia in the families of theaceae and the genus Camellia. The invention takes the flowers of the camellia as raw materials, and the camellia extract is extracted by a water extraction method, and the main components of the prepared camellia extract are tea saponin, tea polyphenol and catechin.

Flos Buddlejae, also known as semen Oroxyli, flos Buddlejae extract contains verbascoside and echinacoside as main ingredients. The invention takes the flowers of buddleja officinalis as raw materials, and the preparation of the extract adopts a water extraction method. The extract can comprehensively resist lipid oxidation, cell DNA damage, extracellular matrix collapse, pigmentation prevention and 360-degree sunlight protection caused by infrared light, ultraviolet light and blue light;

the peony flower is rich in various nutritional ingredients including polyphenols, proteins, amino acids and trace elements required by human body. The invention takes petals of peony as raw materials, the preparation of the extract adopts a water extraction method, and the main components of the extract are protein and vitamin Vb₂The extract promotes sugar metabolism and protein metabolism of the body by providing rich protein and amino acid, participates in various oxidase reactions through vitamin VB2, prevents dryness and keratinization hyperplasia through the carotenoid, and promotes synthesis of various coenzymes through the trace elements.

Magnolia sieboldii (Magnolia sieboldii) is also called flos Celosiae, flos Magnoliae, flos Celosiae or caulis et folium Paeoniae suffruticosae. The Magnolia sieboldii extract contains magnolol as main active component, has antioxidant effect, and can inhibit dopa autooxidation and pigmentation after inflammation. Melanosomes have melanosomes synthesized from tyrosine in melanocytes by the action of tyrosinase, which are then transferred to keratinocytes, where melanosomes are broken down and dispersed into the epidermis, and a large amount of melanin accumulates to form pigmentation. The preparation method of the magnolia sieboldii extract takes the flowers of the magnolia sieboldii as raw materials and adopts a water extraction method to extract.

Peach blossom is a flower of peach tree, a deciduous tree of the family rosaceae, and has widely applied beauty-maintaining, face-nourishing and health-care effects in traditional Chinese medical practice. The effective components of the peach blossom extract comprise peach blossom polysaccharide, rutin and ellagic acid, wherein the polysaccharide eliminates hydroxyl free radicals and super anion free radicals; rutin and ellagic acid, active oxygen is eliminated, copper ions are chelated, tyrosinase activity is inhibited, and skin is brightened and whitened. The peach blossom extract is prepared by taking peach blossom as a raw material and extracting by a water extraction method.

Elderberry (Sambucus nigra) is a plant of Caprifoliaceae, the flowering phase of the elderberry is 6-7 months per year, the flower color is yellow and white, and the elderberry has elegant sweet fragrance of muscadine. The invention adopts the flowers of elderberry as raw materials, and adopts a water extraction method to extract, and the active ingredients of the obtained extract mainly comprise anthocyanidin, tannin and flavone.

The snow lotus is also called snow lotus, belongs to saussurea of Compositae, and is like lotus flower in shape, so that the snow lotus has dense leaves, bud-shaped leaves at the uppermost part, membranous substance and light yellow color, surrounds the total inflorescence, and small flowers are purple. The snow lotus herb extract is prepared by extracting small purple flowers of snow lotus as a raw material by an alcohol extraction method, and the active ingredients of the obtained extract mainly comprise snow lotus lactone and flavonoid rutin.

Glycerol, also known as glycerol, has a water-absorbing effect and is used as a humectant.

Butanediol is one of polyhydric alcohols, is often used as a humectant or a solvent in cosmetics, and is 1, 3-butanediol

The propylene glycol has the functions of moisturizing and resisting bacteria, and the propylene glycol adopted by the invention is 1, 2-propylene glycol

Beta-glucan is also called dextran, and is mainly connected by D-glucopyranose with a bond of alpha, 1 → 6, and branched points are connected by 1 → 2, 1 → 3 and 1 → 4. The molecular weight of the beta-glucan adopted by the invention is 6-50 ten thousand.

The oligomeric sodium hyaluronate is hyaluronic acid molecules with extremely low molecular weight prepared by degrading hyaluronic acid, and has the function of moisturizing skin. The molecular weight of the oligomeric sodium hyaluronate adopted by the invention is 10000.

Trehalose is anhydrous trehalose, also known as rhaponticum uniflorum sugar, mycose, etc., and has cell protecting effect.

Nicotinamide, also known as nicotinamide, is an amide compound of nicotinic acid, used as a nutritional additive in cosmetics.

Inositol, also known as inositol, inositol or inositol (inositol), is involved in metabolic activities in the body.

Carnosine (L-Carnosine), known by the scientific name β -alanyl-L-histidine, is a dipeptide composed of two amino acids, β -alanine and L-histidine, which eliminates reactive oxygen Radicals (ROS) and α - β unsaturated aldehydes, which are formed by the over-oxidation of fatty acids in cell membranes during oxidative stress.

Arbutin, also known as arbutin, can reduce skin pigmentation, remove stains and freckles, and has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effects. It can be extracted from plant or synthesized by artificial chemistry.

The invention is further illustrated by the following examples:

examples 1 to 3

The formulation is shown in Table 1

TABLE 1 examples 1-3 formulations

1) Weighing glycerol, butanediol, propylene glycol, oligomeric sodium hyaluronate, trehalose, beta-glucan, nicotinamide, inositol, xanthan gum and deionized water according to the formula ratio, raising the temperature to 75-80 ℃, and stirring for 30min at 500-600 r/min until the components are completely dissolved;

2) reducing the temperature to 55-60 ℃, adding carnosine, arbutin, a honeysuckle extract, a pale butterflybush flower extract, an elderberry flower extract, a rose extract, a lily extract, a magnolia sieboldii extract, a camellia extract, a snow lotus herb extract, a peony extract and a peach blossom extract, and stirring for 15min at 300-350 r/min until all the components are uniformly mixed;

3) reducing the temperature by 45-50 ℃, adding a preservative PHL, stirring for 10min at a speed of 150-200 r/min, and cooling to room temperature.

Comparative examples 1 to 3

The formulation is shown in Table 2

TABLE 2 comparative examples 1-6 formulations

Efficacy evaluation

1 evaluation of oil control efficacy

1.1 test principle

The effect evaluation of the using effect of the oil absorption paper is carried out by adopting a skin oil tester Sebumeter SM815 of German CK. The oil content test adopts a world recognized SEBUMETER method, which is based on the principle of photometer, after a special extinction adhesive tape with the thickness of 0.1mm absorbs oil on human skin, the special extinction adhesive tape becomes a semitransparent adhesive tape, the light transmission quantity of the semitransparent adhesive tape changes, the more the absorbed oil, the greater the light transmission quantity, and thus, the content of the skin oil can be measured. The test probe has the greatest advantages of small volume and convenient use, and can test any part of the skin. This is an indirect measurement of the secretion of the oil glands, and the result can be used to distinguish between different skin types, making it possible to accurately understand the changes in oil caused by internal and external causes.

1.2 test methods

This patent test selects 30 test subjects, and 3 people divide into 10 groups in one group, draws 3 areas that the size is 3cm x 3cm respectively at the forehead, carries out skin oil content evaluation respectively to blank sample (do not wipe the sample), reference sample and patent sample, and every reference sample is got three average value and is calculated oil content increment percentage and carry out relevant judgement.

(1) The selected test subjects were aged 18 to 30 years and were informed and consented to the subjects, and after the subjects cleaned their faces for 15 minutes, the fat content in the forehead was determined as an initial value.

(2) The method comprises the following steps of (1) not coating a sample on the blank area of the forehead of a subject, weighing 0.5ml of essence in a control sample area and a patent sample area, soaking and covering the skin with 3cm × 3cm of non-woven fabric membrane cloth for 20min, taking down the non-woven fabric, standing for 10min, respectively carrying out oil content determination on three areas, testing once every 30min, and continuously evaluating for 2 h;

(3) and (3) testing environment: testing the environment temperature T of 25 ℃ and the humidity H of 50;

(4) and (3) testing time: cleaning face before testing, testing initial oil content in 15 minutes, and testing oil content data in 30min,60min,90min,150min and 180min respectively;

(5) testing parts: the test area of the blank, control sample, patent sample is marked on the forehead.

1.3 efficacy evaluation results are shown in FIG. 1 and Table 3:

table 3 increase in skin oil content (%)

As can be seen from fig. 1 and table 3: after 3-hour evaluation, the oil content of three tested groups using the formula disclosed by the invention is 230.30-297.06, and the oil content of the three tested groups is 447.37 relative to that of a blank sample. Of these, the oil-suppressing effect of examples 1 to 3 was significantly better than that of each comparative example (p <0.05), and compared to example 3, the oil-suppressing effect of 5 controls (controls 2 to 6) with the same amount of extract was statistically different from that of example 3 (p < 0.01). The oil-suppressing effect of example 3 is also significantly better than that of the other examples, and the effect has statistical significance, and p is less than 0.05. The results demonstrate that the compositions provided herein are significantly superior to samples lacking a portion of the extract or having an improper ratio of the components of the extract.

Evaluation of percutaneous Water loss

2.1 test principle

The measurement principle of the test instrument is derived from FICK Fick diffusion law: dm/dt ═ d.a.dp/dx. Two groups of temperature and humidity sensors are used for measuring the water vapor pressure gradient formed by the loss of moisture in the near epidermis (within about 1 cm) from the cuticle at different bright points, and the moisture content of the percutaneous emission is directly measured. The TEWL value is an important indicator of the quality of the skin barrier, and a lower TEWL value indicates a better barrier function of the skin, whereas a worse.

2.2 test conditions and volunteer requirements

And (3) testing environmental conditions: the testing environment temperature is 22 +/-1 ℃, the humidity is 50 +/-5%, and real-time dynamic detection is carried out;

the volunteer requires: at least 30 effective volunteers, aged between 16-65 years (except pregnant or lactating women): the base value of the capacitance skin moisture determination meaning of the forearm test area is between 15 and 100: patients without severe systemic disease, immunodeficiency or autoimmune disease; those with no active allergic disease; those who have not had a history of severe allergy to skin care cosmetics in the past; hormone drugs and immunosuppressants have not been used in the last month: for participating in other clinical trials; the tested drugs are used according to the regulations and the data is complete; all volunteers should fill out informed consent before testing;

2.3 preparation before testing

Any product (cosmetic or external medicine) cannot be used for 2-3 days before the tested part. Before the experiment, the subject should agree to clean the forearm of both hands, measure the forearm and wipe it clean with dry tissue. After cleaning, the measuring area mark is made on the inner side of the forearm of the test subject. Before formal test, sitting still in a room meeting the standard for at least 30min, no drinking water, exposing forearms, placing in a test state, and keeping relaxed.

2.4 test procedure

The inner side of the left and right arms in the experiment is marked with 3 multiplied by 3cm²In the test area, the same arm can mark a plurality of areas, and the areas are spaced by 1 cm. Both the test product and the placebo were randomly distributed on the left and right arms. The measurement of the test area and the control area was performed using a capacitance skin meter. Each area was assayed 15 times in parallel. The blank paper of each test area was measured and then measured at 2.0. + -. 0.1mg sample/cm²The test was evenly spread into the test area using a latex finger cot. The skin moisture content of the test area and the blank control area (measured at the time of verification) was measured for 1,2 and 4 hours, respectively, and the test was performed by the same measuring person for the same volunteer.

2.5 test results

The TEWL values at all time intervals are respectively measured according to the experimental design, and the skin moisture loss reduction calculation formula is as follows:

T％＝(T0-T1)/T0×100％

t% reduction of skin moisture loss;

t0: amount of skin moisture lost prior to use of the product;

t1: amount of skin moisture lost after application of the product;

the results are shown in table 4 and fig. 2:

table 4 skin moisture loss (%)

	0min	30min	60min	90min
					Comparative example 1	0.00	-5.59	-6.96	-7.01
Comparative example 2	0.00	-3.83	-4.74	-5.20
					Comparative example 3	0.00	-0.06	-2.46	-4.30
Comparative example 4	0.00	-0.44	-1.62	-2.68
					Comparative example 5	0.00	-0.44	-0.09	-0.31
Comparative example 6	0.00	-1.61	-4.30	-4.25
					Example 1	0.00	1.36	1.76	-0.38
Example 2	0.00	1.80	3.21	2.04
					Example 3	0.00	3.27	5.09	4.89

Note: negative values in the table represent increased skin water dispersion relative to T0;

positive values represent a decrease in skin water loss relative to T0.

The results show that: according to the formula disclosed by the invention, through evaluation of the skin moisture loss rate, the reduction amount of the moisture loss of the tested groups in the examples 1-3 is-0.38% -4.89%, and the effect of each example is better compared with the inhibition effect of-7.01% of a blank sample. Among them, the moisturizing effects of examples 1 to 3 were significantly better than those of the comparative examples (p <0.05), and the moisturizing effects of 5 controls (controls 2 to 6) with the same amount of extract as that of example 3 were statistically different (p <0.01) from those of example 3. The moisturizing effect of the embodiment 3 is also obviously better than that of other embodiments, the effect has statistical significance, and p is less than 0.05. The results demonstrate that the compositions provided herein provide significantly better moisturization than samples lacking a portion of the extract or having an improper ratio of the components of the extract.

3 MMV testing method for skin moisture content

3.1 test principle

The method adopts a capacitance method to test the moisture content of the horny layer of the human skin, the principle is that the capacitance value of the skin is different according to the difference of the water content of the skin based on the obvious difference of the dielectric constants of water and other substances, and the observation parameters can represent the moisture value of the skin.

3.2 test equipment:

a multifunctional skin tester, model CUTOMETER DUAL MPA 580, from CK, Germany, selects a skin moisture content test probe and a skin moisture loss TEWL test probe.

3.3 test conditions and volunteer requirements

3.4 preparation before testing

3.5 test procedure

The inner side of the left and right arms in the experiment is marked with 3 multiplied by 3cm²In the test area, the same arm can mark a plurality of areas, and the areas are spaced by 1 cm. Test product and blank controlAre randomly distributed on the left and right arms. The measurement of the test area and the control area was performed using a capacitance skin meter. Each area was assayed 15 times in parallel. The blank paper of each test area was measured and then measured at 2.0. + -. 0.1mg sample/cm²The test was evenly spread into the test area using a latex finger cot. The skin moisture content of the test area and the blank control area (measured at the time of verification) was measured for 1 hour, 2 hours and 4 hours, respectively, and the test was performed by the same measuring person for the same volunteer.

3.6 test results

And measuring the MMV value of each time period according to the design decibel of the experiment. The water content calculation formula is as follows:

W％＝(W1-W0)/W0×100％

w% is the percentage increase of the moisture content of the skin;

w0 moisture content of skin before use of the product;

w1 moisture content of skin after application of the product;

the results are shown in table 5 and fig. 3:

table 5 skin moisture content increase (%)

	0min	30min	60min	120min
					Comparative example 1	0.00	89.10	94.52	78.46
Comparative example 2	0.00	127.56	114.26	97.32
					Comparative example 3	0.00	147.21	131.02	102.68
Comparative example 4	0.00	152.50	121.36	104.92
					Comparative example 5	0.00	153.49	141.29	109.93
Comparative example 6	0.00	134.01	124.78	95.07
					Example 1	0.00	154.37	147.53	112.49
Example 2	0.00	176.33	159.95	135.05
					Example 3	0.00	174.74	163.76	147.60

The results show that: after 2-hour evaluation, the formula can improve the moisture content of the skin to 112.49% -147.60%, and is relatively blank (78.46%), and the example sample improves the moisture content to 34.03% -69.14% compared with the blank. Statistical analysis shows that the water replenishing effect of the examples 1-3 is remarkably superior to that of each comparison (p is less than 0.05), and compared with the example 3, the water replenishing effect of 5 controls (controls 2-6) with the same extract dosage is statistically different from that of the example 3 (p is less than 0.01). The water replenishing effect of the embodiment 3 is also obviously better than that of other embodiments, the effect has statistical significance, and p is less than 0.05. The results demonstrate that the compositions provided herein are significantly superior to samples lacking a portion of the extract or having an improper ratio of the components of the extract.

4LPS (LPS) -induced NO inhibition released by RAW264.7 cells

4.1 experimental principle:

LPS (lipopolysaccharide):

a thicker (8-10nm) layer of lipoidal polysaccharide material located on the outermost layer of the cell wall of gram-negative bacteria, consisting of lipoid A, core polysaccharide and O-specific side chain 3 moieties. Lipopolysaccharides are endotoxins and important group-specific antigens (O antigens). Lipopolysaccharide consists of three parts. Lipid a (lipid a) is a glycolipid that constitutes endotoxin activity, covalently linked to a heteropolysaccharide chain, with two parts: one is the core polysaccharide, which is constant within the strain concerned; the other O-specific chain (O-specific chain) is highly variable. Lipopolysaccharide of Escherichia coli is a commonly used B cell mitogen, polyclonal activator (polyclonal activator) in laboratory immunology. In the experiment, LPS is used for inducing RAW264.7 cells to generate anaphylactic reaction and release NO (nitric oxide).

Method for testing content of Griess assay-NO

NO is very easily oxidized to NO in vivo or in aqueous solution₂Under the acidic condition, NO and diazonium salt sulfanilamide have diazotization reaction, diazotization compounds are generated, the diazotization compounds further have coupling reaction with naphthyl ethylene diamine, the concentration of the generated products has linear relation with the concentration of NO, and the maximum absorption peak is at 540 nm.

4.2 Experimental materials and methods:

4.2.1 materials: DMEM, FBS, LPS, MTT, Griess reagent

4.2.2 Experimental methods:

RAW264.7 cell culture

Sucking DMEM culture medium from RAW264.7 cells with a pipette to blow out scattered cells, counting the cells with a Hemacytometer, and diluting the cells with DMEM to a concentration of 5X 10⁴cells/ml。

The diluted cell solutions were inoculated into 96 wells, each well containing 100. mu.l of 5X 10³cells/well。

At 37 ℃ 5% CO₂Was cultured in an incubator for 24 hours.

Preparing a sample to be tested and a blank sample: diluting a sample to be detected by using a DMEM culture medium, wherein the diluted concentrations are as follows: 1% (this concentration passes the previous MTT test and is non-toxic)

Name Control Sample (examples 1 to 3, comparative examples 1 to 6)

Sample composition LPS 10ppm + 1% sample cells were cultured for 24 hours before observing whether the cells were fully adherent and if so, removing the original medium and washing with DPBS.

After DPBS removal, the previously prepared samples were added separately. Solubility of the samples A safe concentration of 1% (20. mu.l/well) was chosen depending on the results of the toxicity test.

After the sample was added, the mixture was placed at 37 ℃ in 5% CO₂Was cultured in an incubator for 20 hours.

After 20 hours, 50ul of the medium was removed to a new 96Well, and 1% Griess reagent was added to the same volume, mixed Well and reacted in the dark for 10 minutes.

The samples were tested for absorbance at 540nm using an ELISA reader.

NO inhibition

NO Inhibition％＝((〖OD〗_Control-〖OD〗_Sample)/〖OD〗_Control)*100％

Wherein: absorbance luminance values of [ (OD ] or _ Control-blank

(OD) Sample as absorbance value

4.3 inhibition of inflammatory outcome

The result is shown in figure 4, and as shown in the figure, the formula of the invention reduces the NO release by 16.79-23.85%, reduces the NO release by 6.68% relative to the blank sample, and improves the inhibition rate by 10.11-17.17%. Statistical analysis shows that the anti-inflammatory effects of the samples 1-3 are significantly better than those of each comparative example (p <0.05), and compared with the sample 3, the anti-inflammatory effects of 5 controls (controls 2-6) with the same extract dosage are statistically different from the sample 3 (p < 0.01). The anti-inflammatory effect of example 3 is also significantly better than that of the other examples, and the effect has statistical significance, and p is less than 0.05. The results demonstrate that the compositions provided herein are significantly superior to samples lacking a portion of the extract or having an improper ratio of the components of the extract.

5 fibroblast proliferation Rate

5.1 experimental principle:

the cell counting method comprises the following steps: after cell suspension preparation, cells are stained with the vital dye trypan blue for cell counting. Trypan blue is unable to penetrate the normal intact cell membrane of living cells, so living cells are not stained. The cell membrane permeability of the dead cells is increased, and the dye enters the cells to stain the cells (blue).

5.2 Experimental materials and methods

Experimental materials DMEM, DPBS, Typsin-EDTA, Petri dish, 96well dish, 0.4% trypan blue solution, absolute ethyl alcohol or 95% ethyl alcohol solution, common microscope, cell counting plate, pipette, MTT, DMSO

5.3 Experimental methods:

5.3.1 fibroblast cell culture

1) Treating cultured fibroblast with Typsin-EDTA, collecting, suspending with DMEM, counting with a hemocytometer, and diluting to 5 × 10 cell concentration⁴cells/ml for use

2) The prepared cell suspension was aliquoted into 96well dish and 6well dish, respectively, and cultured, wherein the inoculation amount of 96well dish was 100. mu.L, and the inoculation amount of 6well dish was 2 ml.

3) At 37 ℃ 5% CO₂Was cultured in an incubator for 24 hours.

5.4. Sample addition

1) Diluting a sample to be detected by using a DMEM culture medium, wherein the diluted concentrations are as follows: 1% (this concentration passes the previous MTT test and is non-toxic)

2) After 24 hours of cell culture, the previous DMEM was removed and then carefully washed with DPBS

3) The DMEM medium to which the sample to be tested is added prepared in the first step is sequentially added.

4) At 37 ℃ 5% CO₂Was cultured in an incubator for 48 hours.

5.5 cell count

1) Counting plate treatment

Wiping the counting plate with absolute ethyl alcohol or 95% ethyl alcohol solution, wiping the counting plate with silk cloth, wiping another cover glass sheet, and covering the cover glass on the counting plate.

2) Dyeing process

The cells cultured in 6well dish were removed from the medium, digested with typsin-EDTA, collected and suspended in DMEM medium. mu.L of 0.4% trypan blue stain and 10. mu.L of cell suspension were pipetted using a pipette and mixed well. Slowly injecting from the edge of the counting plate to fill the gap between the counting plate and the cover plate. The counting plate was placed under a low power mirror (10X 10 times) to observe the counting.

3) Counting method

The number of cells in the four large squares (16 small squares per large square) of the counting plate was counted as shown. When counting, only intact cells are counted, and if cells are aggregated, the cells are counted as one cell. In a large square, if any cells are on-line, the off-line cells are generally counted without the on-line cells, and the left-line cells are counted without the right-line cells. Under the observation of the microscope, the cells with strong refractivity and no coloration are live cells, and the cells with blue coloration are dead cells.

4) Conversion of the count

After counting, the number of cells per ml of suspension was converted. Since the area of each square in the counting plate is 0.01cm²Height of 0.01cm, so that its volume is 0.0001cm³I.e. 0.1mm³. Since 1ml is 1000mm³Therefore, the number of cells in each large square × 10000 ═ cell number/ml, and thus can be calculated as follows:

cell suspension cell number/ml-4 big lattice cell total number/4 × 10000

If the sample is diluted before counting, the dilution factor can be multiplied. After counting the cells, the concentration of the cells in the cell suspension is calculated. The cell proliferation rate of each sample was calculated based on the blank.

5.6 fibroblast proliferation results

The results are shown in FIG. 5, as shown: the formula can promote the cell proliferation rate, the cell proliferation rate is improved to 24.79-34.74%, and the cell proliferation rate is improved by 16.84-26.79% compared with the proliferation rate of a blank sample of 7.95%, so that the formula has the advantages of better promoting the cell proliferation and delaying the aging. Statistical analysis showed that the cell proliferation-promoting effects of examples 1 to 3 were significantly better than those of the comparative examples (p <0.05), and the cell proliferation-promoting effects of 5 controls (controls 2 to 6) having the same amount of extract as that of example 3 were statistically different from those of example 3 (p < 0.01). Among them, the effect of example 3 in promoting cell proliferation was also significantly superior to that of the other examples, and the effect was statistically significant, with p < 0.05. The results demonstrate that the compositions provided herein are significantly superior to samples lacking a portion of the extract or having an improper ratio of the components of the extract.

6 tyrosinase activity inhibition effect test

6.1 reagent: 0.175mol/L PBS (pH 6.8),1.5mmol/L tyrosine, 2000unit/mL tyrosinase

6.2 Experimental sample preparation: the body was diluted with PBS at 5%, 10%, 50% respectively

6.3 test methods:

1) selecting 4 blanks on a 96well plate, and adding the blanks according to the addition amount of each substance in the table

2) Shaking, mixing thoroughly, placing in 37 deg.C incubator for reaction

3) Absorbance is measured after 25 minutes at 490nm using a microplate reader (Ab, Absorbance)

4.) the inhibitory effect of tyrosinase activity was calculated using the following formula:

6.4 results of the experiment

The results are shown in fig. 6, and as shown in the figure, the inhibition rate of the formula of the invention on tyrosinase is 82.82% -91.29%, and the inhibition rate of the blank sample is 69.25%, which shows that the formula of the invention has better tyrosinase activity inhibition, effectively inhibits melanin generation, and brightens and whitens the skin. Statistical analysis shows that the inhibitory activity of examples 1-3 is significantly better than that of each comparative example (p <0.05), and compared with example 3, the inhibitory activity of 5 controls (controls 2-6) with equivalent extract dosage is statistically different from that of example 3 (p < 0.01). The inhibitory activity of example 3 was also significantly better than that of the other examples, and the effect was statistically significant, with p < 0.05. The results demonstrate that the compositions provided herein are significantly superior to samples lacking a portion of the extract or having an improper ratio of the components of the extract.

Determination of radical scavenging ability by 7DPPH method

7.1 test preparation

(1) DPPH test solution preparation

Accurately weighing 1mgDPPH, 95% ethanol to constant volume and 50ml volumetric flask, and performing ultrasonic treatment for 3min to completely dissolve. Measuring 1ml of solution to measure the absorbance A at 519nm, wherein the value of A can be used between 0.6 and 0.8.

(2) Vc Standard Curve measurement

Vc is prepared into five different concentrations of 0.1,0.2,0.3,0.4 and 0.5mmol/L by deionized water. 2ml of DPPH solution, 100ul of Vc solution and 400ul of 95% ethanol are added into a small test tube, mixed and shaken evenly, and then kept stand for 5min, and the A value (519nm) is measured. Blank control was 100ul deionized water. A concentration-absorbance standard curve is plotted as-1.

Vc clearance rate (A0-AX)/A0

A0: deionized water blank, Ax: vc absorbance

(3) Sample assay

And (3) detecting the sample solution with the step (2), setting a DPPH (non-denaturing high-pH) control group for avoiding the influence of the solution color, and calculating the absorbance as the absorbance of the sample minus the absorbance of the control group. Three replicates were measured for each dose. And a0 was retested after each dose of three replicates was measured. The absorbance, clearance rate, comparative Vc oxidation resistance and total oxidation resistance of the sample are measured and shown in the table-1.

7.2 the experimental results are shown in fig. 7, and it can be seen from the figure that the clearance rate of the formula of the invention on free radicals can reach 57.34% -85.46%, compared with the clearance rate of the blank sample 38.38%, the clearance rate of the formula of the invention is improved by 18.96% -47.08%, which shows that the formula of the invention has better clearance rate of free radicals, effectively reduces inflammatory factors and tyrosinase, and delays cell aging. Statistical analysis shows that the water replenishing effect of the examples 1-3 is remarkably superior to that of each comparison (p is less than 0.05), and compared with the example 3, the water replenishing effect of 5 controls (controls 2-6) with the same extract dosage is statistically different from that of the example 3 (p is less than 0.01). The water replenishing effect of the embodiment 3 is also obviously better than that of other embodiments, the effect has statistical significance, and p is less than 0.05. The results demonstrate that the compositions provided herein are significantly superior to samples lacking a portion of the extract or having an improper ratio of the components of the extract.

The foregoing is only a preferred embodiment of the present invention, and it should be noted that it is obvious to those skilled in the art that various modifications and improvements can be made without departing from the principle of the present invention, and these modifications and improvements should also be considered as the protection scope of the present invention.

Claims

1. The composition is characterized by comprising the following components in parts by mass:

the honeysuckle extract, the buddleja officinalis extract and the peony extract are prepared by a water extraction method;

the preparation method of the lily extract, the rose extract, the camellia extract, the magnolia sieboldii extract, the peach blossom extract and the elderberry extract is a water extraction method;

the preparation method of the snow lotus herb extract is an alcohol extraction method.

2. The composition according to claim 1, which is characterized by comprising the following components in parts by mass:

3. an essence consisting of glycerin, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, β -glucan, oligomeric sodium hyaluronate, trehalose, niacinamide, inositol, carnosine, arbutin and the composition of claim 1 or 2.

4. The essence of claim 3, which is characterized by comprising the following components in parts by mass:

5. the essence of claim 3 or 4, further comprising water, preservatives and thickeners.

6. The essence of claim 5, wherein the water is present in an amount of 77.61-85.11% by weight.

7. The application of the essence of any one of claims 3 to 6 in the preparation of cosmetics; the cosmetic has water and oil balancing, antiinflammatory, antioxidant, skin whitening and/or antiaging effects.

8. The method for preparing the essence of claim 5 or 6, comprising:

9. A cosmetic comprising the essence according to any one of claims 3 to 6.

10. The cosmetic according to claim 9, which is a mask pack, further comprising a mask pack base.