CN107938112A - 少水环保高弹经纬机织裤装面料加工工艺 - Google Patents

少水环保高弹经纬机织裤装面料加工工艺 Download PDF

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CN107938112A
CN107938112A CN201711407714.4A CN201711407714A CN107938112A CN 107938112 A CN107938112 A CN 107938112A CN 201711407714 A CN201711407714 A CN 201711407714A CN 107938112 A CN107938112 A CN 107938112A
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张战旗
许秋生
邵珠珍
刘桂杰
仲伟浩
杨玲玲
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Lufeng Weaving and Dyeing Co Ltd
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Abstract

本发明属于纺织加工技术领域，具体涉及一种少水环保高弹经纬机织裤装面料加工工艺。经纱和纬纱均采用以莱卡为纱芯的棉包芯纱线，棉包芯纱线单纱为20英支包70D或105D莱卡，面料组织为3/1S斜纹或3/1Z斜纹，加工工艺如下：坯布水洗→预定型→水洗碱洗→氧漂→干定型→丝光→染色或增白→拉幅柔软→预缩。本发明生产方式具有连续性，可以实现大货的连续化生产,采用本发明丝光工艺为制作高弹经纬机织裤装面料提供基础。采用本发明工艺，面料经纬向弹性达到20％以上，缩水控制在0～‑5％，手感柔软，穿着舒适。

Description

少水环保高弹经纬机织裤装面料加工工艺
技术领域
本发明属于纺织加工技术领域，具体涉及一种少水环保高弹经纬机织裤装面料加工工艺。
背景技术
随着人们消费水平的提高和消费观念的改变，人们对服装面料舒适性的追求越来越高，弹力面料以其自然和谐与不受约束的特点越来越受到人们的青睐，目前市场上弹力机织裤装面料大多数为纬向弹力面料，高品质经纬双弹机织裤装面料非常少，经纬双弹机织面料相对于针织面料形态与尺寸稳定性更佳，外观更加怡然大方，同时兼具针织面料的舒适性。
发明内容
针对现有技术的不足，本发明的目的是提供一种少水环保高弹经纬机织裤装面料加工工艺，生产的面料经纬向弹性达到20％以上，缩水控制在0～-5％以内，手感柔软，穿着舒适。
本发明所述的少水环保高弹经纬机织裤装面料加工工艺，经纱和纬纱均采用以莱卡为纱芯的棉包芯纱线，加工工艺如下：坯布水洗→预定型→水洗碱洗→氧漂→干定型→丝光→染色或增白→拉幅柔软→预缩。
其中：
棉包芯纱线单纱为20英支包70D或105D莱卡，面料组织为3/1S斜纹或3/1Z斜纹。
坯布水洗：退浆酶DS-HT:3g/L、渗透剂MRZ:6g/L、精炼酶601L:5g/L、萃取剂4g/L，其余为水；蒸箱温度98℃，水洗槽温度：95℃，车速50m/min。
坯布水洗中萃取剂为RED:EX按质量比为1:3混合，RED、EX为市售萃取剂。
预定型工艺：温度为180℃，车速为30m/min，上超喂25～35％，下超喂-0.5％，后超喂1％，上风量60、下风量50，张力架张力0～0.2kg，走轧车。
水洗碱洗：步骤一：退浆酶3ml/kg、渗透剂5ml/kg、精炼酶1ml/kg、萃取剂4ml/kg，蒸箱汽蒸100℃*0min；料槽温度50℃；
步骤二：NaOH 58g/L、精炼剂CRC 4g/L、精炼剂SA-U 2g/L、渗透剂6g/L、螯合剂4g/L，其余为水；蒸箱汽蒸100℃；车速：60m/min，料槽温度50±3℃。
优选地，水洗碱洗：步骤一：上轧车3bar，下轧车3bar；退浆酶DS-HT 3ml/kg、渗透剂(WA-M)5ml/kg、精炼酶601-L1ml/kg、萃取剂(RED:EX＝1:3)4ml/kg、4#水洗槽溢流水量：4L/Kg；8#水洗槽溢流量3L/Kg；1#水洗槽溢流水2L/Kg，1#-8#水洗槽温度均为95℃；蒸箱汽蒸温度100℃；料槽温度50℃；
步骤二：NaOH 58g/L、精炼剂CRC 4g/L、精炼剂SA-U 2g/L、渗透剂6g/L、螯合剂4g/L，其余为水；蒸箱汽蒸100℃；12#水洗槽溢流水4L/Kg；刮刀压力0.25bar，8#水洗槽三辊轧车压力：上轧车3.2bar，下轧车3.2bar；车速：60m/min，退浆蒸箱水槽液位7-10cm；料槽温度50±3℃，煮练蒸箱水槽液位7-10cm。
氧漂：NaOH 2.5g/L、27.5％双氧水10g/L、螯合剂10g/L、稳定剂6g/L、渗透剂6g/L，其余为水；蒸箱汽蒸100℃*25min。
优选地，氧漂：刮刀0.25bar，预洗槽三辊轧车压力：上轧车3.0bar，下轧车3.0bar；NaOH2.5g/L，双氧水(H2O2)10g/L(27.5％)，螯合剂(SQ-A：：254＝1:3)10g/L，稳定剂(OUR-266)6g/L，渗透剂6g/L，其余为水；蒸箱汽蒸100℃*25min；水洗槽温度分别为95℃、95℃、95℃、90℃；预洗槽溢流水0.5L/kg；4#水洗槽溢流水量4L/kg；车速60m/min。
干定型：温度205℃，车速24m/min、上超喂22～32％、下超喂-0.5％、后超喂1％、上风量70％、下风量60％，张力架张力0～0.3kg，走轧车。
丝光工艺：NaOH浓度：256g/L；张力250N；张力架0.5kg以下，出布铗张力300N；超喂5％，浓碱温度：50℃；超喂辊：2bar；出布铗轧车：3bar；稳定区轧车：3bar；pH值：5.5；水洗槽温度1-3#均为95℃、4#为90℃、5-6#均为55℃、7-8#均为70℃；含潮率5％；车速：80m/min。
拉幅柔软工艺：温度100℃～130℃、车速30m/min～45m/min、上超喂10～15％、下超喂-0.5％、后超喂1.5％、上风量80％、下风量75％、张架张力0～0.3kg，走轧车；柔软剂选用线性多元聚硅氧烷或亲水聚醚改性硅油柔软剂，浓度为5～15g/L，将配制好的柔软剂水溶液加入轧槽内，浸轧织物，带液率控制在55％～75％，然后进入升温到100℃～130℃的烘箱中，烘干落布。
预缩工艺：胶毯高温100℃～110℃、压距16～19mm、张力架张力0～0.2kg、车速：30～40m/min。
与现有技术相比，本发明具有以下优点：
(1)本发明生产方式具有连续性，可以实现大货的连续化生产。
(2)采用本发明丝光工艺为制作高弹经纬机织裤装面料提供基础。
(3)预定型：温度：180℃车速30m/min、上超喂25～35％、下超喂-0.5％、后超喂1％、上风量60％、下风量50％、张力架张力0～0.2kg走轧车；使用该工艺条件保证该规格后续加工不卷边，经向弹性损失小。
(4)干定型：205℃车速24m/min、上超喂22～32％、下超喂-0.5％、后超喂1％、上风量70％、下风量60％、张力架张力0～0.3kg走轧车；使用该工艺条件保证经向弹性，稳定幅宽达到客户要求
(5)拉幅：温度100℃～130℃、车速30m/min～45m/min、上超喂10～15％、下超喂-0.5％、后超喂1.5％，使用该工艺条件保证手感柔软，滑爽，经向弹性损失小。
(6)预缩：胶毯高温100℃～110℃、压距16～19mm大压距、张力0～0.2kg、车速：30～40m/min；使用该工艺条件保证成品经纬向弹性达到客户要求，保证缩水，稳定幅宽。
(7)通过以上工序面料经纬向弹性达到20％以上，缩水控制在0～-5％，手感柔软，穿着舒适。
具体实施方式
下面结合实施例对本发明做进一步说明。
实施例中所用原料除特殊说明外，均为市售产品。
实施例1
织物：LYCRA20(105D)*LYCRA20(105D)*100*72*50/52，组织3/1S斜纹。
1)面料经过坯布水洗、预定型、水洗碱洗、氧漂、干定型、丝光、染色或增白、拉幅柔软、预缩处理；
2)坯布水洗：DS-HT退浆酶:3g/L、MRZ渗透剂:6g/L、601L精练酶:5g/L、萃取剂：RED+EX(1:3质量):4g/L、蒸箱温度98℃水洗槽温度：95℃，车速50m/min。
3)预定型：温度：180℃，车速30m/min、上超喂25％、下超喂-0.5％、后超喂1％、上风量60、下风量50，张力架张力0～0.2kg，走轧车。
4)水洗碱洗：步骤一：上轧车3bar，下轧车3bar；退浆酶DS-HT 3ml/kg、渗透剂(WA-M)5ml/kg、精炼酶601-L1ml/kg，4#水洗槽溢流水量：4L/Kg；8#水洗槽溢流量3L/Kg；1#水洗槽溢流水2L/Kg 1#-8#水洗槽温度分别为95、95、95、95℃；蒸箱汽蒸100℃*0min；料槽温度50℃
步骤二：NaOH 58g/L；精炼剂(CRC)4g/L，精炼剂(SA-U)2g/L；渗透剂(ZFC)6g/L；螯合剂(SQ-A)4g/L；蒸箱汽蒸100℃*0min；12#水洗槽溢流水4L/Kg；刮刀压力0.25bar，8#水洗槽三辊轧车压力：上轧车3.2bar，下轧车3.2bar；9#-12#水洗槽温度95、95、95、95℃；车速6060m/min退浆蒸箱水槽液位7-10cm；料槽温度50±3℃，煮练蒸箱水槽液位7-10cm。
5)氧漂：刮刀0.25bar预洗槽三辊轧车压力：上轧车3.0bar下轧车3.0bar；NaOH2.5g/L；双氧水(H2O2)10g/L(27.5％)；螯合剂(SQ-A：：254＝1:3)10g/L；稳定剂(OUR-266)6g/L；渗透剂6g/L；蒸箱汽蒸100℃*25min；水洗槽温度95、95、95、90℃；预洗槽溢流水0.5L/kg；4#水洗槽溢流水量4l/kg；车速60m/min；
6)干定型：205℃，车速24m/min、上超喂25％、下超喂-0.5％、后超喂1％、上风量70、下风量60张力架0～0.3kg走轧车。
7)丝光工艺：NaOH浓度：256g/L；张力250N,张力架0.5kg以下，出布铗张力300N超喂5％浓碱温度：50℃；超喂辊：2bar；出布铗轧车：3bar；稳定区轧车：3bar；PH值：5.5；水洗槽温度1-3#95℃；4#90℃5-6#：55℃；7-8#：70℃；含潮率5％；车速80m/min.
8)拉幅柔软：温度120℃车速30m/min、上超喂10％、下超喂-0.5％、后超喂1.5％、上风量70、下风量65张力架张力0～0.2kg走轧车、柔软剂选用线性多元聚硅氧烷或亲水聚醚改性硅油柔软剂，浓度为5～15g/L，将配制好的柔软剂溶液加入容积为30～50L的轧槽内，浸轧经纬双弹织物，带液率控制55％～75％，然后进入升温到100℃～130℃、的烘箱中，烘干落布。
9)预缩：胶毯高温100℃、压距17mm大压距、张力架张力0～0.2kg、车速：35m/min、保证经向弹性。
使用上述工艺处理后成品经纬向弹性可以达到22％，缩水控制在-5％以内；使用传统工艺高弹经纬机织裤装面料经向弹性只有3％左右，该发明工艺明显要优于传统工艺。
实施例2
织物：LYCRA20(105D)*LYCRA20(105D)*100*65*50/52，组织3/1Z斜纹。
1)面料经过坯布水洗、预定型、水洗碱洗、氧漂、干定型、丝光、染色或增白、拉幅柔软、预缩处理；
2)坯布水洗：DS-HT退浆酶:3g/L、MRZ渗透剂:6g/L、601L精练酶:5g/L、萃取剂：RED+EX(1:3质量):4g/L、蒸箱温度98℃水洗槽温度：95℃，车速50m/min。
3)预定型：温度：180℃，车速30m/min、上超喂35％、下超喂-0.5％、后超喂1％、上风量60、下风量50张力架张力0～0.2kg走轧车。
4)水洗碱洗：步骤一：上轧车3bar、下轧车3bar；退浆酶DS-HT 3ml/kg、渗透剂(WA-M)5ml/kg、精炼酶601-L1ml/kg、萃取剂(RED:EX＝1:3)4ml/kg、4#水洗槽溢流水量：4L/Kg；8#水洗槽溢流量3L/Kg；1#水洗槽溢流水2L/Kg 1#-8#水洗槽温度分别为95、95、95、95℃；蒸箱汽蒸100℃*0min；料槽温度50℃
步骤二：NaOH 58g/L；精炼剂(CRC)4g/L，精炼剂(SA-U)2g/L；渗透剂(ZFC)6g/L；螯合剂(SQ-A)4g/L；蒸箱汽蒸100℃*0min；12#水洗槽溢流水4L/Kg；刮刀压力0.25bar 8#水洗槽三辊轧车压力：上轧车3.2bar下轧车3.2bar；9#-12#水洗槽温度95、95、95、95℃；车速60m/min退浆蒸箱水槽液位7-10cm；料槽温度50±3℃煮练蒸箱水槽液位7-10cm。
5)氧漂：刮刀0.25bar预洗槽三辊轧车压力：上轧车3.0bar下轧车3.0bar；；NaOH2.5g/L；双氧水(H2O2)10g/L(27.5％)；螯合剂(SQ-A：254＝1:3)10g/L；稳定剂(OUR-266)6g/L；渗透剂6g/L；蒸箱汽蒸100℃*25min；水洗槽温度95、95、95、90℃；预洗槽溢流水0.5L/kg；4#水洗槽溢流水量4l/kg；车速60m/min。
6)干定型：205℃车速24m/min、上超喂32％、下超喂-0.5％、后超喂1％、上风量70、下风量60，张力架张力0～0.3kg，走轧车。
7)丝光工艺：NaOH浓度：256g/L；张力250N，张力架0.5kg以下，出布铗张力300N超喂5％，浓碱温度：50℃；超喂辊：2bar；出布铗轧车：3bar；稳定区轧车：3bar；PH值：5.5；水洗槽温度1-3#95℃；4#90℃5-6#：55℃；7-8#：70℃；含潮率5％；车速80m/min。
8)拉幅柔软：温度130℃车速35m/min、上超喂15％、下超喂-0.5％、后超喂1.5％、上风量70、下风量65张力0～0.2kg走轧车、柔软剂选用线性多元聚硅氧烷或亲水聚醚改性硅油柔软剂，浓度为5～15g/L，将配制好的柔软剂溶液加入容积为30～50L的轧槽内，浸轧经纬双弹织物，带液率控制55％～75％，然后进入升温到100℃～130℃、的烘箱中，烘干落布。
9)预缩：胶毯高温108℃、压距19mm大压距、张力0～0.2kg、车速：40m/min、保证经向弹性。
使用上述工艺处理后成品经纬向弹性可以达到28％，缩水控制在-5％以内；使用传统工艺高弹经纬机织裤装面料经向弹性只有3％左右，该发明工艺明显要优于传统工艺。

Claims (10)

1.一种少水环保高弹经纬机织裤装面料加工工艺，其特征在于：经纱和纬纱均采用以莱卡为纱芯的棉包芯纱线，加工工艺如下：坯布水洗→预定型→水洗碱洗→氧漂→干定型→丝光→染色或增白→拉幅柔软→预缩。
2.根据权利要求1所述的少水环保高弹经纬机织裤装面料加工工艺，其特征在于：棉包芯纱线单纱为20英支包70D或105D莱卡，面料组织为3/1S斜纹或3/1Z斜纹。
3.根据权利要求1所述的少水环保高弹经纬机织裤装面料加工工艺，其特征在于：坯布水洗：退浆酶DS-HT:3g/L、渗透剂MRZ:6g/L、精炼酶601L:5g/L、萃取剂4g/L，其余为水；蒸箱温度98℃，水洗槽温度：95℃，车速50m/min。
4.根据权利要求1所述的少水环保高弹经纬机织裤装面料加工工艺，其特征在于：预定型工艺：温度为180℃，车速为30m/min，上超喂25～35％，下超喂-0.5％，后超喂1％，上风量60％、下风量50％，张力架张力0～0.2kg，走轧车。
5.根据权利要求1所述的少水环保高弹经纬机织裤装面料加工工艺，其特征在于：
水洗碱洗：步骤一：退浆酶3ml/kg、渗透剂5ml/kg、精炼酶1ml/kg、萃取剂4ml/kg，蒸箱汽蒸100℃；料槽温度50℃；
步骤二：NaOH 58g/L、精炼剂CRC 4g/L、精炼剂SA-U 2g/L、渗透剂6g/L、螯合剂4g/L，其余为水；蒸箱汽蒸100℃；车速：60m/min，料槽温度50±3℃。
6.根据权利要求1所述的少水环保高弹经纬机织裤装面料加工工艺，其特征在于：氧漂：NaOH 2.5g/L、27.5％双氧水10g/L、螯合剂10g/L、稳定剂6g/L、渗透剂，6g/L其余为水；蒸箱汽蒸100℃*25min。
7.根据权利要求1所述的少水环保高弹经纬机织裤装面料加工工艺，其特征在于：干定型：温度205℃，车速24m/min、上超喂22～32％、下超喂-0.5％、后超喂1％、上风量70％、下风量60％，张力架张力0～0.3kg，走轧车。
8.根据权利要求1所述的少水环保高弹经纬机织裤装面料加工工艺，其特征在于：丝光工艺：NaOH浓度：256g/L；张力250N；张力架0.5kg以下，出布铗张力300N；超喂5％，浓碱温度：50℃；超喂辊：2bar；出布铗轧车：3bar；稳定区轧车：3bar；pH值：5.5；水洗槽温度1-3#均为95℃、4#为90℃、5-6#均为55℃、7-8#均为70℃；含潮率5％；车速：80m/min。
9.根据权利要求1所述的少水环保高弹经纬机织裤装面料加工工艺，其特征在于：拉幅柔软工艺：温度100℃～130℃、车速30m/min～45m/min、上超喂10～15％、下超喂-0.5％、后超喂1.5％、上风量80％、下风量75％、张架张力0～0.3kg，走轧车；柔软剂选用线性多元聚硅氧烷或亲水聚醚改性硅油柔软剂，浓度为5～15g/L，将配制好的柔软剂水溶液加入轧槽内，浸轧织物，带液率控制在55％～75％，然后进入升温到100℃～130℃的烘箱中，烘干落布。
10.根据权利要求1所述的少水环保高弹经纬机织裤装面料加工工艺，其特征在于：预缩工艺：胶毯高温100℃～110℃、压距16～19mm、张力架张力0～0.2kg、车速：30～40m/min。
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