The small-micelle water cosmetics for promoting water-soluble substances rapid transdermal to absorb
Technical field
The invention belongs to field of cosmetic manufacture, it is related to a kind of subset for promoting water-soluble substances rapid transdermal to absorb
Aquation cosmetic and its preparation.
Background technology
The active skull cap components for coming from plant, animal and marine algae at present are widely used in cosmetics, to new
The exploitation of cosmetics provides favourable condition, has boundless market application foreground.Some of them water-soluble active ingredient
Advantageous advantage is shown at aspects such as anti-oxidant, anti-aging, whitening, sun-proof, moisturizing, anti-inflammatory Shu Min, such as:1. marine alga
Composition enriches, and in addition to rich in vitamin, mineral matter, amino acid and carbohydrate, also contains polysaccharide, protein, unrighted acid, steroid
The various active material such as class and polyterpene.Research for many years shows that marine alga has cosmetology, anti-inflammation, antitumor, antiviral, anti-
Aging, a series of specific functions such as fat and enhancing body immunity that disappear of losing weight.At present, marine alga is widely used to food, medicine
And the aspect such as daily chemical industry;2. extract of magnolia sieboldii has and suppresses tyrosinase activity and reduce dermal melanin synthesis
Effect, and to the excitatory very small of skin;3. the main active Tea Polyphenols in green-tea extract, with powerful
Ability that is anti-oxidant and removing free radical, Tea Polyphenols can also absorb the ultraviolet of 200-400nm, there is light to protect to skin and make
With in addition, having to study confirms that green-tea extract also has certain skin whitening efficacy and anti-inflammation function;4. tinder
Certainly imperial ability of grass tool height, can resist atrocious weather and other growing environments, and its essential ingredient contains abundant mineral matter,
Have to skin it is crease-resistant, releive, calm, whitening and nourish protective effect.In addition, such as vitamin C, niacinamide, reproducibility
After the increasing water-soluble active ingredient such as glutathione is revealed, important work is played in skin nursing and beauty
With, and gradually penetrate into daily life in diversified form.
But because the outermost layer of human body skin is made up of dead keratinocyte and fibrosis albumen, water miscible work
Property nutritional ingredient transdermal penetration performance it is often poor, it is difficult to through cuticula reach skin corium, this turn into restriction its can send out
Wave the key factor of effect.Dividing for water-soluble substances can be improved with Thief zone, high diffusivity, solvent small-micelle water high
Sub- vigor, and promote horn cell to absorb more moisture, the aquation of skin is improved, bring it about and expand and change its cause
Close degree, reduces the osmotic resistance to water-soluble active ingredient, finally becomes the Transdermal absorption of active nutrient component in cosmetics
Must be more prone to.Research shows, when the water content of cuticula is up to more than 50%, the transmitance of function nutrition material in cosmetics
5-10 times can be increased, and absorption enhancement effect of the cuticula aquation to water-soluble substances is notable compared with liposoluble substance.
The content of the invention
Present invention aim at small-micelle water and water-soluble active ingredient preparing cosmetics are used, small-micelle water can be with
Strengthen the aquation of skin, improve the molecular activity of active component, and finally promote its rapid transdermal to absorb.
The product form of described cosmetics is the cosmetics such as thin skin water, moisture surge treatment formula, facial mask.Preferably, it is described
Cosmetics are thin skin water, and it includes small-micelle water, water-soluble active component, moisturizing active factors and other thin skin water
Matrix.
Small-micelle water containing active component of the invention is carried out into dermal penetration rate measure, using deionized water as
Control, uses the content of active component in ultraviolet specrophotometer determination sample.It was found that with subset water dissolves activity into
Percutaneous rate is divided to be significantly higher than deionized water group.
The thin skin water of small-micelle water containing sea lettuce active component of the invention is carried out into 3D skin models melanin to determine,
Using deionized water as control, as a result content and distribution using melanin in confocal fluorescent measurement microscope model find,
Relative to the thin skin water that deionized water makes, the water-treated skin of thin skin that small-micelle water makes, its melanin content and
Distribution is substantially reduced.
It follows that subset water energy improves water content of stratum corneum, strengthen the aquation of skin, improve sea lettuce activity
The molecular activity of composition, and finally promote its rapid transdermal to absorb.
Small-micelle water cosmetics physicochemical property containing water-soluble active ingredient of the invention is significantly better than with commonly going
Cosmetics obtained in ionized water, due to equally containing small-micelle water, small-micelle water cosmetics of the invention in tissue
The acid-base value of energy active balance skin, the sufficient active water of quick supplement makes the lasting water profit of skin, delicacy;Small-micelle water is high
Infiltration, high diffusivity, solvent property high, the molecular activity that can significantly improve water-soluble active ingredient in cosmetics are saturating with quick
Skin absorbs, for the nursing and maintenance of skin provide a kind of good environment.
Brief description of the drawings
The thin skin water that Fig. 1 is prepared with small-micelle water and deionized water respectively, different time points sea lettuce active component it is saturating
Skin absorptance compared with
The comparing figure of Fig. 2 series active component percutaneous rates in deionized water and small-micelle water
The thin skin water containing sea lettuce active component that Fig. 3 is prepared with small-micelle water and deionized water respectively, to 3D skin moulds
The influence of type melanin expression is compared.
Specific embodiment
Technical scheme is further illustrated below by way of specific embodiment, specific embodiment is not represented to this hair
The limitation of bright protection domain.Other people still fall within this hair according to some nonessential modifications and adjustment that theory of the present invention is made
Bright protection domain.
The a width of 50-100Hz of small-micelle water 17ONMR half-peaks used in embodiment.
Embodiment 1:Different water-soluble actives transdermal evaluation test methods and result
1st, sample preparation, weighs appropriate water-soluble active ingredient respectively, and small-micelle water and deionized water are dissolved in respectively
Table 1
Composition |
% concentration (by weight) |
Sea lettuce extract |
3 |
Extract of magnolia sieboldii |
3 |
Green-tea extract |
3 |
Edelweiss extract |
3 |
Bulk kelp extract |
3 |
Bladder-wrack extract |
3 |
2nd, water-soluble actives transdermal evaluation test method
The Sprague Dawley male rats 6 of body weight 200g or so are taken, after death electricity consumption palpus knife shaves mouse hair at cervical vertebra,
Skin of abdomen is cut, subcutaneous layer of fat, blood vessel and residue is removed, is cleaned with physiological saline, and check its integrality, use physiology
After saline rinse, freezen protective is standby in putting -20 DEG C of refrigerators.Transdermal test in vitro is carried out using improved horizontal Franz dispersers
Experiment.Rat skin is clipped between supply chamber and receiving chamber, towards supply chamber, effective infiltrating area is keratoderma
1.14cm2.4.5mL samples, receiving chamber 4.5mL phosphate buffers (PBS), and supply chamber and receiving chamber are added in supply chamber
Liquid level did not had the most upper limb of skin completely, and constant speed 300r/min is kept under constant temperature (32 ± 1 DEG C), was stirred continuously, in the 120th point
Clock pipettor draws the solution 0.1mL of receiving chamber as test fluid, determines water-soluble active thing with ultraviolet specrophotometer and contains
Amount.The transdermal experiment of each sample is repeated 3 times.
3rd, result of the test
Result with the active component percutaneous rate of subset water dissolves as shown in figure 1, in 120 minutes, be significantly higher than
Deionized water group.
Embodiment 2:Water-soluble active material and small-micelle water are used for thin skin water
Based on mass fraction 100%, thin skin water formula composition is as shown in table 2:
Table 2:Thin skin water formula (%)
Marine alga sea lettuce extract |
3.0 |
Small-micelle water |
Surplus |
Sodium Hyaluronate |
0.1 |
Glycerine |
10.0 |
1,3 butylene glycol |
5.0 |
Preservative |
In right amount |
Embodiment 3:Small-micelle water promotes the absorption of marine alga sea lettuce extract
Using the thin skin water of embodiment 2 as sample, the small-micelle water in embodiment 2 is replaced according to identical with deionized water
The thin skin water for preparing of method as control, test method with embodiment 1, respectively at the 5th, 10,20,30,45,60,80,100,
The solution 0.1mL of receiving chamber is drawn as test fluid with pipettor within 120 minutes, while adding the PBS of equivalent, use ultraviolet spectrometry light
Degree meter determines water-soluble active thing content.The accumulation infiltration capacity Q of skin unit area is calculated as follows according to assay result:
Wherein, Q:Accumulation infiltration capacity;S:Effective diffusion area;V:Reception liquid volume in receiving chamber;Ci:1st time to last time
Sample concentration in reception liquid during sampling;Cn:Sample concentration in reception liquid during the sub-sampling.
Result is as shown in Fig. 2 the marine alga sea lettuce extract made of small-micelle water and the marine alga for spending ionized water making
The percutaneous rate of sea lettuce extract is respectively 6.01 μ g/ (cm2) and 4.91 μ g/ (cm min2·min)。
Embodiment 4:The thin skin water of marine alga sea lettuce extract and small-micelle water preparation is determined to black using 3D skin models
The influence of pigment.
The 3D skin models containing melanocyte are taken, the thin skin water containing sea lettuce extract is smeared in skin surface, to skin
Skin model carries out UVB irradiation, and treatment fixes the model for crossing sample treatment with 4% paraformaldehyde, carries out immuning tissue after terminating
Chemical analysis methods.With PBS 3 times, 5min/ times;0.2%TritonX-100 changes 5min thoroughly;PBS 3 times, using donkey
37 DEG C of incubator closings of serum;Primary antibody, slide is added to be put into wet box, 4 DEG C of overnight incubations.Next day PBS 3 times, adds life
The secondary antibody of thing elementization;37 DEG C of incubators are incubated 2h;Carry out PBS 3 times, 5min/ times after chromogenic reaction;Core is contaminated using DAPI
10min;PBS 3 times, 4 DEG C keep in dark place, and carry out Laser Scanning Confocal Microscope and take pictures, and analyze.
Using the thin skin water of embodiment 2 as sample, the small-micelle water in embodiment 2 is replaced according to identical with deionized water
The thin skin water for preparing of method as control, as a result as shown in figure 3, compared with deionized water group, what small-micelle water made contains
The thin skin water of marine alga sea lettuce extract can substantially reduce the melanin generation and distribution that UVB causes, it follows that, it is of the invention
Small-micelle water cosmetics containing sea lettuce active component are Thief zone, high diffusivity, solvent active water high, compared to commonly going
Ionized water, it can improve water content of stratum corneum, strengthen the aquation of skin and the molecular activity of active component, so as to promote
Sea lettuce active nutrient component fast strikethrough skin is absorbed.
Embodiment 5:Water-soluble active material and small-micelle water are used for moisture surge treatment formula
Based on mass fraction 100%, moisture surge treatment formula formula composition is as shown in table 3:
Table 3:Moisture surge treatment formula is formulated (%)