CN106924057B

CN106924057B - Small micelle water cosmetic for promoting rapid transdermal absorption of water-soluble substances

Info

Publication number: CN106924057B
Application number: CN201611255157.4A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 杨登亮; 丛琳; 刘德海; 林盛杰; 张伟杰; 张楚标
Original assignee: GUANGZHOU BAIYUN LIANJIA FINE CHEMICAL FACTORY; Guangdong Danz Group Co Ltd; Guangzhou Keneng Cosmetic Research Co Ltd
Current assignee: Guangdong Danz Group Co Ltd; Guangzhou Keneng Cosmetic Research Co Ltd
Priority date: 2016-12-30
Filing date: 2016-12-30
Publication date: 2020-09-11
Anticipated expiration: 2036-12-30
Also published as: CN106924057A

Abstract

The invention relates to the field of daily cosmetics and discloses a small micelle water-based cosmetic for promoting rapid transdermal absorption of water-soluble substances. The natural active substances contain a large amount of natural active substances, and have special effects on antioxidation, anti-aging, sun protection, whitening, sterilization, inflammation diminishing and the like when being applied to cosmetics, but due to the special structure of the skin, water-soluble substances are difficult to permeate through the horny layer to be quickly and sufficiently absorbed by the skin. The small cluster water increases the hydration of the stratum corneum of the skin, reducing its barrier effect to water-soluble substances, and in small cluster water, the active substance retains a higher molecular activity and readily penetrates the skin. In addition, the human tissues also contain small molecular group water, and the cosmetics prepared from the small molecular group water can effectively balance the pH value of the skin, quickly supplement active water and moisten the skin. Experiments show that compared with common deionized water, the cosmetics prepared from the small molecular group water can promote the rapid transdermal absorption of natural water-soluble substances.

Description

Small micelle water cosmetic for promoting rapid transdermal absorption of water-soluble substances

Technical Field

The invention belongs to the field of cosmetic manufacture, and relates to a small molecular group water cosmetic for promoting rapid transdermal absorption of water-soluble substances and a preparation method thereof.

Background

At present, natural active ingredients from plants, animals and marine algae are widely applied to cosmetics, provide favorable conditions for the development of novel cosmetics, and have very wide market application prospects. Some of the water-soluble active ingredients have unique advantages in the aspects of antioxidation, anti-aging, whitening, sun protection, moisture retention, anti-inflammation, allergy relief and the like, such as: 1. the seaweed is rich in vitamins, minerals, amino acids, saccharides, polysaccharides, proteins, unsaturated fatty acids, steroids, polyterpenes, and other active substances. The research for many years shows that the seaweed has a series of special functions of skin care, beauty treatment, antibiosis, antiphlogosis, tumor resistance, antivirus, anti-aging, weight reduction, fat elimination, body immunity enhancement and the like. At present, seaweed is widely applied to the fields of food, medicine, daily chemical industry and the like; 2. the Magnolia sieboldii extract has effects of inhibiting tyrosinase activity and reducing skin melanin synthesis, and has very little irritation to skin; 3. the main active component tea polyphenol in the green tea extract has strong oxidation resistance and free radical scavenging capacity, and can absorb 200-400nm ultraviolet rays to have a light protection effect on skin; 4. the edelweiss have high self-defense capability, can resist severe weather and other growth environments, contain rich mineral substances in essential components, and have the effects of resisting wrinkles, relieving, calming, whitening and nourishing and protecting skin. In addition, more and more water-soluble active ingredients such as vitamin C, niacinamide, reduced glutathione, etc. have been disclosed to play an important role in skin care and beauty and are gradually permeated into the daily life of people in various forms.

However, since the outermost layer of human skin is composed of dead keratinocytes and fibrin, the water-soluble active nutrients have poor transdermal permeability and are difficult to penetrate through the stratum corneum to reach the dermis, which is a key factor that restricts the efficacy of the composition. The small molecular group water with high permeability, high diffusion and high dissolving power can improve the molecular activity of water-soluble substances, promote keratinocytes to absorb more water, improve the hydration of skin, enable the skin to swell and change the compactness of the skin, reduce the permeation resistance to water-soluble active ingredients and finally enable the transdermal absorption of active nutritional ingredients in cosmetics to be easier. Research shows that when the water content of the stratum corneum reaches more than 50%, the permeability of functional nutrient substances in cosmetics can be increased by 5-10 times, and the absorption promoting effect of stratum corneum hydration on water-soluble substances is more remarkable than that of fat-soluble substances.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to prepare cosmetics by using small molecular group water and water-soluble active ingredients, wherein the small molecular group water can enhance the hydration of skin, improve the molecular activity of the active ingredients and finally promote the rapid transdermal absorption of the active ingredients.

The product form of the cosmetic is cosmetics such as skin water, moisturizing cream, facial mask and the like. Preferably, the cosmetic is a skin water, which comprises small molecular group water, natural water-soluble active ingredients, moisturizing active factors and other skin water matrixes.

The micro-cluster water containing the active ingredients is subjected to in-vitro transdermal rate measurement, deionized water is used as a control, and an ultraviolet spectrophotometer is used for measuring the content of the active ingredients in a sample. The transdermal rate of the active ingredient dissolved with small micelle water was found to be significantly higher than the deionized water group.

The method comprises the steps of carrying out 3D skin model melanin measurement on the small molecular group water skin toner containing the active ingredients of ulva, taking deionized water as a reference, and measuring the content and distribution of melanin in a model by using a confocal fluorescence microscope.

The obtained small molecular group water can improve the water content of the stratum corneum, enhance the hydration of the skin, improve the molecular activity of the active ingredients of the ulva, and finally promote the rapid transdermal absorption of the active ingredients.

The small molecular group water cosmetic containing the water-soluble active ingredients is remarkably superior to cosmetics prepared by common deionized water in physical and chemical properties, and because human tissues also contain small molecular group water, the small molecular group water cosmetic can effectively balance the pH value of skin, quickly supplement sufficient active water and enable the skin to be permanently moist and tender; the small molecular group water has the properties of high permeability, high diffusion and high dissolving power, can obviously improve the molecular activity and the rapid transdermal absorption of water-soluble active ingredients in cosmetics, and provides a good environment for the nursing and repairing of skin.

Drawings

FIG. 1 shows comparison of percutaneous absorption of active ingredients of Ulva lactuca at different time points in skin-thinning lotion prepared with small micelle water and deionized water

FIG. 2 is a graph comparing the transdermal rates of active ingredients in deionized water and small cluster water

Fig. 3 is a comparison of the effect of ulva active ingredient-containing skin water prepared with small cluster water and deionized water on melanin expression in 3D skin models.

Detailed Description

The technical solutions of the present invention are further illustrated by the following specific examples, which do not represent limitations to the scope of the present invention. Insubstantial modifications and adaptations of the present invention by others of the concepts fall within the scope of the invention.

The half-peak width of the small molecular group water 17ONMR used in the examples is 50-100 Hz.

Example 1: test method and result for transdermal evaluation of different water-soluble active substances

1. Sample preparation, respectively weighing appropriate amount of water soluble active ingredients, respectively dissolving in small molecular group water and deionized water

TABLE 1

Composition (I)	% concentration (by weight)
		Ulva lactuca extract	3
Magnolia sieboldii extract	3
		Green tea extract	3
Extract of Leontopodium alpinum	3
		Macrocystis extract	3
Fucus vesiculosus extract	3

2. Water-soluble active substance transdermal evaluation test method

6 Sprague Dawley male rats weighing about 200g were sacrificed at the cervical vertebrae, and then the rat hairs were shaved off with an electric shaver, the abdominal skin was cut off, the subcutaneous fat layer, blood vessels and residues were removed, washed with physiological saline, and checked for integrity, rinsed with physiological saline, and then stored in a refrigerator at-20 ℃ for freezing and use. In vitro transdermal experiments were performed using a modified horizontal Franz diffusion device. The rat skin was sandwiched between the delivery and receiving chambers with the stratum corneum facing the delivery chamber and an effective permeation area of 1.14cm². 4.5mL of the sample was added to the feeding chamber, 4.5mL of Phosphate Buffered Saline (PBS) was added to the receiving chamber, and the liquid levels of the feeding chamber and the receiving chamber were completely submerged in the uppermost edge of the skin, and the solution was pipetted at a constant temperature (32. + -. 1 ℃) for 0.1mL of the solution in the receiving chamber as a test solution at 120 minutes with continuous stirring, and the content of the water-soluble active substance was measured by an ultraviolet spectrophotometer. The transdermal experiment was repeated 3 times for each sample.

3. Test results

The results are shown in figure 1, where the transdermal rate of the active ingredient dissolved in water with small micelles is significantly higher than in the deionized water group within 120 minutes.

Example 2: water soluble active substance and small molecular group water for skin care water

The composition of the formula of the toner is shown in the following table 2, calculated by the mass fraction of 100%:

table 2: skin toner formulation (%)

Seaweed ulva extract	3.0	Small molecular group water	Balance of
				Hyaluronic acid sodium salt	0.1	Glycerol	10.0
1, 3-butanediol	5.0	Preservative	Proper amount of

Example 3: small molecular group water promotes absorption of seaweed ulva extract

The test method was the same as example 1 except that the skin toner of example 2 was used as a sample and deionized water was used instead of the small cluster water of example 2 to prepare a skin toner in the same manner as in example 2, and 0.1mL of the solution in the receiving chamber was pipetted as a test solution at 5 th, 10 th, 20 th, 30 th, 45 th, 60 th, 80 th, 100 th, and 120 th minutes, and the content of the water-soluble active substance was measured by an ultraviolet spectrophotometer by adding an equal amount of PBS. The cumulative permeation quantity Q per unit area of the skin was calculated from the content measurement results according to the following formula:

wherein, Q: accumulating the permeation amount; s: an effective diffusion area; v: a receiving liquid volume in the receiving chamber; ci: the concentration of the sample in the receiving solution from the 1 st to the last sampling; cn: the concentration of the sample in the receiving fluid at this time.

As a result, as shown in FIG. 2, the skin penetration rate of the algal ulva extract prepared with the small molecular group water and the skin penetration rate of the algal ulva extract prepared with the deionized water were 6.01. mu.g/(cm)²Min) and 4.91. mu.g/(cm)²·min)。

Example 4: and (3) determining the influence of the skin toner prepared from the alga ulva extract and the small molecular group water on melanin by using a 3D skin model.

Taking a 3D skin model containing melanocytes, smearing fine toner containing ulva extract on the surface of the skin, carrying out UVB irradiation on the skin model, fixing the model treated by the sample by using 4% paraformaldehyde after the treatment is finished, and carrying out immunohistochemical method analysis. Washing with PBS for 3 times and 5 min/time; permeabilizing 0.2% TritonX-100 for 5 min; washing with PBS for 3 times, and sealing with donkey serum at 37 deg.C; primary antibody was added and the slide was placed in a wet box and incubated overnight at 4 ℃. Washing with PBS for 3 times the next day, and adding biotinylated secondary antibody; incubating in an incubator at 37 ℃ for 2 h; washing with PBS for 3 times (5 min/time) after color development reaction; staining the nucleus for 10min by using DAPI; PBS was washed 3 times, stored at 4 ℃ in the dark, photographed by confocal microscope and analyzed.

The skin water of example 2 was used as a sample, and deionized water was used to replace the skin water of example 2, and the skin water containing the extract of ulva algae was prepared in the same manner as the control, and as a result, as shown in fig. 3, compared with the deionized water group, the skin water containing the extract of ulva algae prepared from the skin water of small molecular group was able to significantly reduce the generation and distribution of melanin caused by UVB, and thus it was found that the cosmetic of small molecular group water containing active ingredients of ulva according to the present invention is highly permeable, highly diffusive, and highly soluble active water, and compared with ordinary deionized water, it is able to increase the water content of stratum corneum, enhance the hydration of skin and the molecular activity of active ingredients, thereby promoting the active nutritional ingredients of ulva to be rapidly absorbed through the skin.

Example 5: moisturizing cream using water-soluble active substance and small molecular group water

The formula composition of the moisturizing cream is shown in table 3 according to the mass fraction of 100%:

table 3: moisture skin cream formulation (%)

Claims

1. Use of a cosmetic composition comprising an ulva extract and small cluster water for reducing UVB-induced melanin production.

2. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the small cluster water¹⁷The half-peak width of ONMR is 50-100 Hz.

3. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that said composition is used in a skin-care lotion, cream or mask.

4. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the composition is an antioxidant composition.

5. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that said composition is an anti-ageing composition.

6. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the composition is a composition for lightening, screening out sunlight or inhibiting skin pigmentation.

7. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the composition is a moisturizing composition.

8. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the composition is an anti-inflammatory and soothing composition.

9. Use according to claims 1-3, characterized in that the composition is intended to increase the hydration of the stratum corneum of the skin and the molecular vitality of the water-soluble active principle and eventually promote the rapid transdermal absorption of the active principle.

10. The cosmetic composition for use according to claim 1.