CN103767972B - A kind of ternary moisturizing lock water composition and the application in cosmetics thereof - Google Patents
A kind of ternary moisturizing lock water composition and the application in cosmetics thereof Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
The invention discloses a kind of ternary moisturizing lock water composition, comprise the following composition by mass percent: grass green salicornia europaeal extract 0.01-10%; Extracellular polysaccharide 0.01-20%; And beta glucan 0.01 ~ 20%.Ternary moisturizing of the present invention lock water composition has the effect of efficient moisture-retention, lasting lock water, can continue the moisture keeping keratodermatitis, ensure the moist degree of skin, make skin-tightening, be rich in elasticity, gloss.Invention further provides the application of described ternary moisturizing lock water composition for the preparation of cosmetics.
Description
Technical field
The invention belongs to cosmetic field, relate to a kind of cosmetics containing three kinds of lock water moisturizing ingredient.
Background technology
Water is Source of life, is the source of all things on earth, and the existence of water makes nature all things on earth be able to life, samsara, metabolism, is also the basis that the mankind maintain vital movement.Skin be the water storage storehouse that body weight for humans is wanted, research shows, the moisture of nearly 75% is stored in skin, cuticular water content generally between 10 ~ 20%, when moisture of skin abundance time, inner all cells and organelle are all immersed in body fluid, carry out normal substance metabolism, transmission of information, thus maintain normal organizational structure and physiological function, guarantee skin barrier function is normal, resists invasion and attack and the stimulation of extraneous undesirable element; Skin beauty water profit, smooth, fine and smooth, high resilience and gloss is just shown as in outside.And when the water content in keratodermatitis is less than 10% due to a variety of causes, skin then there will be dry and astringent, tight sense, surface has tiny desquamation, even produces tiny wrinkle.The skin of long-term hydropenia also can be dry and cracked, lax, obscure, and be very easy to irritated.Oily skin can cause water oil unbalance because of hydropenia, controls more oily and more oily the problems such as initiation small pox, corse sweat pore.Therefore, will focus on replenishing water and preserving moisture in operational maintenance, help keratodermatitis to maintain in best water content environment, therefore all skin problems all can improve.
Although the skin-protection product kind of replenishing water and preserving moisture is a lot of on the market, its effect majority can not be satisfactory.First, most products only can supplement the moisture of skin surface, deeply cannot improve the moisture of cortex, fails fundamentally to solve xerosis cutis problem.Secondly, existing market upper part replenishing water and preserving moisture product uses natural plants, Chinese herbal medicine extract, mostly adopts organic solvent extraction, partial solvent more or less all can be had to remain in cosmetics, and this brings hidden danger to the safety of user.
Summary of the invention
The object of the invention is to solve the deficiencies in the prior art, provide a kind of ternary moisturizing to lock water composition, the effect such as deep water supplement, lasting lock water can be provided.Invention further provides the application of described ternary moisturizing lock water composition for the preparation of cosmetics.
Above-mentioned purpose of the present invention is achieved by the following technical programs:
A kind of ternary moisturizing lock water composition of the present invention, comprises the following composition by mass percent: grass green salicornia europaeal extract 0.01-10%; Extracellular polysaccharide 0.01-20%; And beta glucan 0.01 ~ 20%; Surplus is water.
According to the further feature of ternary moisturizing of the present invention lock water composition, described grass green salicornia europaeal extract is prepared by the following method: grass green salicornia europaeal is dry and pulverize, and filters for subsequent use through 100 eye mesh screens.Adopt ethanol water as Extraction medium, be placed on ultrasonic cell disruptor, carry out supersound extraction 1.5h.Shifted out by extract after supersound extraction, filter, residue ethanol water washs, and filter, merging filtrate, carries out concentrating under reduced pressure by filtrate, filters and obtains grass green salicornia europaeal extract.
Preferably, in the preparation method of described grass green salicornia europaeal extract, the mass fraction of ethanol water is 60%; The grass green salicornia europaeal of every a weight adds the ethanol water of 4-9 part weight.
Grass green salicornia europaeal is that a kind of geavy salt matter soil being born in salt-soda soil, salt lakeside and seabeach, river valley humidity has stalk without the green plants of leaf, and be rich in vitamin C, also containing 18 seed amino acids, is the green health care food of useful human body.It is that fat-soluble Salicornia Bigelovii Torr. belongs to medicinal herbs, adapts to the soil of less salt to high content of salt, and can store moisture and transmission ammonium ion, a kind of bionical active component, by stimulating carbamide passage (comprising the conveying of ammonium ion, the synthesis of carbamide and storage), increase synthesis and the storage of carbamide; The cohesiveness and the healing power that improve skin avoid carbamide to run off.
According to the further feature of ternary moisturizing lock water composition of the present invention; described extracellular polysaccharide is the extracellular polysaccharide secreted by the halomereid that the promise of French Brittany Abel shellfish is marine, and it forms the mixture be made up of galactose, N-acetyl glucosamine.Such as, can adopt the product purchased from French CODIF company, it is a kind of concentrate obtained by bioreactor culture, is rich in natural and has the galactose of novel molecular and the N-acetyl glucosamine of special construction.This extract has the hyaluronic synthesis of promotion, strengthens the inherent moisturizing of skin, storage capacity, promotion Keratinocyte differentiation, promotes cell turnover, activates the effects such as the natural immune system of skin.
According to the further feature of ternary moisturizing lock water composition of the present invention, described beta glucan is mushroom beta glucan.Described beta glucan, also known as dextran, is a kind of polysaccharide, is present in the mucus that certain micro-organisms secretes in growth course, has higher molecular weight.Mushroom glucosan is a kind of polysaccharide of natural extract, mushroom glucosan is that the mushroom being called " Schizophyllum commune Franch． " from one extracts the pure beta glucan obtained in aquatic year cultivation silk, it is the polymer of a kind of height water-soluble " β-1,6-branched-β-1,3-glucan ".Beta glucan is because of the existence of its special key connected mode and intramolecular hydrogen bond, and cause the molecular structure of spiral, the structure of this uniqueness can make the moisture of absorption better maintain, and reaches the effect of lock water.Mushroom glucosan also has promotion fibroblast and Keratinocytic migration reaches reparation loss skin, cicatrize a wound, the immunity of the activation enhancing body of stimulating expression of macrophage, also has the effect such as antiinflammatory, UV resistance simultaneously, especially high moistening effect, containing a large amount of hydroxyls in its structure of mushroom glucosan, can form hydrogen bond with the hydroxyl of halomereid extracellular polysaccharide, collaborative water suction, makes skin reach deeper moisturizing, lock water effect.
The preparation method of ternary moisturizing lock water composition of the present invention is: at normal temperatures, by grass green salicornia europaeal extract, extracellular polysaccharide, mushroom beta glucan are fully uniformly mixed by above-mentioned formula.
The usage of ternary moisturizing of the present invention lock water composition is: can as replenishing water and preserving moisture functional component, in the middle of the formula directly adding basic skin protection to.Except these components above-mentioned, component common in emulsifying agent, antiseptic and other skin care item when preparing skin care item, can also be added, skin care item that the concrete material basis added will configure and determining.The skin care item type that can be used for configuring is extensive, comprises emollient cream, skin lotion, moisturizer, moisture retention water, facial cleaning cream etc.
Compared with prior art, ternary moisturizing of the present invention lock water composition has the effect of efficient moisture-retention, lasting lock water, can continue the moisture keeping keratodermatitis, ensure the moist degree of skin, make skin-tightening, be rich in elasticity, gloss.Specifically, following several respects are comprised:
First, water is caught in the external world, Deep storage water; Utilize in extracellular polysaccharide and its molecular structure of mushroom beta glucan and work in coordination with containing a large amount of hydroxyls the moisture caught in external environment, be stored in horny layer by the mode forming hydrogen bond in conjunction with a large amount of moisture content, reach collaborative preferably and catch water moisturizing effect.Meanwhile, utilize grass green salicornia europaeal extract, increase the expression of carbamide passage, promote synthesis and the storage of carbamide, thus reduce carbamide loss, reach the effect of Deep storage water.In addition, extracellular polysaccharide main component N-acetyl glucosamine can synthesize glucosaminoglycan (GAGS), and GAGS has skin corium water storage function, improves its water storage effect further.
Secondly, top layer lock water; Extracellular polysaccharide and mushroom beta glucan catch the ability of moisture except having from the external world, and its strand can also be interweaved and reticulate, and in addition with the hydrogen bonded of water, play superpower water conservation, lock water effect; And polysaccharide has good filming performance, the uniform natural lock water thin film of one deck can be formed at skin surface, reduce the evaporation of skin surface moisture, keep skin surface to lock water effect lastingly, make the lasting water of skin tender.
In sum, ternary moisturizing lock water composition of the present invention can be used to prepare the cosmetics with the effect such as efficient moisture-retention, lasting lock water.
Accompanying drawing explanation
Fig. 1 is the curve chart of skin moisture content change.
Fig. 2 is skin percutaneous water loss rate change curve.
Fig. 3 is the change curve of ternary composition Different adding amount to skin moisture content.
Fig. 4 is the change curve of ternary composition Different adding amount to the water loss of skin percutaneous.
Detailed description of the invention
(1) ternary composition performance of keeping humidity is evaluated
1. the raw material of compositions:
Choose following three kinds of one-tenth to be grouped into " ternary composition ", by experiment the performance of keeping humidity of this ternary composition average.
Grass green salicornia europaeal extract: extract voluntarily, prepare by the following method:
Grass green salicornia europaeal is dry and pulverize, filter for subsequent use through 100 eye mesh screens.Adopt ethanol water as Extraction medium, be placed on ultrasonic cell disruptor, carry out supersound extraction 1.5h.Shifted out by extract after supersound extraction, filter, residue ethanol water washs, and filter, merging filtrate, carries out concentrating under reduced pressure by filtrate, filters and obtains grass green salicornia europaeal extract.
Preferably, in the preparation method of described grass green salicornia europaeal extract, the mass fraction of ethanol water is 60%; The grass green salicornia europaeal of every a weight adds the ethanol water of 4-9 part weight.
Extracellular polysaccharide: commercially available prod, international specialty name cosmetic material (INCI) name is called plankton extractions.Preferably, adopt the extracellular polysaccharide secreted by the halomereid in Abel shellfish promise (France-Brittany), it forms the mixture be made up of galactose, N-acetyl glucosamine.Such as, purchased from the product of French CODIF company.
Mushroom beta glucan: commercially available prod, international specialty name cosmetic material (INCI) name is called beta glucan, such as, buys the product from Korea S hundred bright moral (BIOLAND) company.
2. experimental technique and result
A. hygroscopic assay method
Unsaturated carbonate potassium solution and saturated ammonium sulfate solution are placed in two exsiccators respectively, deposit in 20 DEG C of constant temperature ovens, make the environment that relative humidity (R.H.) is 43% and 81%, measure for moisture absorption.Accurately take sample, put into two exsiccators, after certain hour, take its quality again, calculate hydroscopicity by following formula:
B. the assay method of moisture retention
Sample after dry constant weight is added the water that mass fraction is 10%, is placed in and is equipped with in the exsiccator of discolour silica gel, under capable and experienced dry condition, record water content over time, calculate moisturizing rate by following formula:
C. moisture absorption, moisturizing test result analysis
Moisture absorption, the good glycerol of moistening effect, hyaluronic acid (HA) is selected to test in contrast, by the moisture absorption under several raw material moisture absorption separately under test certain condition, moisturizing rate and 1:1:1 ratio, moisturizing rate.Respectively each 1.5g of Measurement accuracy sample, is placed in plate, and test each sample relative humidity (R.H.) is water absorption rate under 43% and 81% environment and each relative humidity (R.H.) is moisturizing rate under 43% condition.Its result is as follows: table 1. sample at 20 DEG C, the hydroscopicity (Ra) of R.H.43%, R.H.81% and moisturizing rate (Rr) (24h)
Glycerol is the more common good wetting agent of moistening effect, is often used as the adjuvant of moisturizer.Hyaluronic acid is then the splendid wetting agent of a kind of performance of keeping humidity, with glycerol, hyaluronic acid as experiment contrast group, can verify moisture absorption, the moistening effect of this moisture-keeping composition preferably.By above experimental data, can find out, preferred grass green salicornia europaeal extract, extracellular polysaccharide and mushroom beta glucan, all there is certain moisture absorption, moistening effect, but moisture absorption, the moistening effect of its effect and glycerol are similar, larger gap is had with hyaluronic moisture absorption, moistening effect, but after composite in 1:1:1 ratio, its moisture absorption, moisture-retaining capacity significantly improve, suitable with hyaluronic moisture absorption, moistening effect, this illustrates that three kinds of raw materials have certain collaborative moisture-absorbing moisture-keeping effect.There is excellent moisture absorption and moisture-retaining capacity, alternative expensive hyaluronic acid.
(2) application of ternary moisturizing of the present invention lock water composition in cosmetics and performance evaluation
According to the above-mentioned ternary composition determined, be prepared into ternary moisturizing with the common reagent of cosmetic field and lock aquation cosmetic.
As shown in table 2, prepare the protective skin cream of 7 different formulations.
The protective skin cream (unit: percetage by weight) of table 2. different formulations
By above-mentioned formula, component A, B component are heated to 75 DEG C respectively, under agitation the mixture of B component are slowly added in component A, make its emulsifying, continue to stir, add component C and component D when temperature is down to 50 DEG C, stir and be cooled to room temperature.
Above-mentioned 7 cosmetics provided are carried out to the detection of following moistening effect.
1. the moisture test of skin: adopt CorneometerCM825, by measuring the change using the change of keratodermatitis capacitance before and after product to weigh water content of stratum corneum, thus evaluate the moisture-keeping efficacy of cosmetics, this method carries out quantification to the moisture of keratodermatitis, can sensitive situation of change of reacting skin moisture content intuitively, be one of common method of current moisture-keeping cosmetics efficacy assessments.
Experimental technique: randomly draw 15 tested volunteers, wherein, male 7, women 8.Testee needs first wash hands forearm, and sit quietly 30min under the humidity environment of setting, then marks 3*3cm in forearm side, tester left and right
2the square Experimental Area of size, using left arm as the test zone of moisturizer, the corresponding symmetrical region of right arm is blank, detect the moisture of each Test sites again with CorneometerCM825 test, repeat 5 times respectively, draw the meansigma methods of each test, record data, again by calculating the average hydration rate of 15 volunteers in different time spaced points, by following formula calculated hydration rate, result is as shown in the table:
The mean skin hydration rate (%) of table 3. different time spaced points 15 tested volunteers
According to above test data, the curve chart of skin moisture content change and the change of percutaneous water loss amount can be drawn, as shown in Figures 1 to 4.
According to test data and curve chart 1 and Fig. 2, can draw, the replenishing water and preserving moisture lock water effect of the protective skin cream that embodiment 1,2,3,4 provides all is better than embodiment 5 protective skin cream not adding any extract.And the moisturizing lock water effect of adding composite embodiment 1 protective skin cream of three kinds of extracts is best, can obviously find out from figure, other several groups of protective skin cream are in use after 1 hour, its subjects skin's water content in always reduce, the continuous increase tendency of percutaneous moisture flow vector, and use embodiment 1 protective skin cream subjects skin water content in progressively rising, the progressively downward trend of percutaneous moisture flow vector, which illustrate, adopt the compositions of ternary built to have collaborative moisturizing preferably, lock water effect, it is far better that its composite effect is used alone effect than wherein any one.According to test data and curve chart 3 and Fig. 4, can draw, along with the increase of compositions consumption in formula of ternary built, subjects skin's water content in progressively rising, the progressively downward trend of percutaneous moisture flow vector, its moisturizing lock water effect is become better and better.But consider Cost Problems, can require to select suitable ratio according to different-effect.
By above embodiment, can draw: ternary moisturizing lock water constituent extracellular polysaccharide of the present invention, mushroom beta glucan, grass green salicornia europaeal extract, have good collaborative moisture absorption, moisture-retaining capacity.Replenishing water and preserving moisture skin care item prepared by this ternary composition, have the moistening effect of good deep water supplement, lasting lock water, even if under dehumidifier, dry environment, skin still can be made to keep good moisture for a long time, make the lasting water of skin tender.
Claims (4)
1. a ternary moisturizing lock water composition, is characterized in that, comprise the following composition by mass percent:
Grass green salicornia europaeal extract 0.01-10%;
Extracellular polysaccharide 0.01-20%; And
Mushroom beta glucan 0.01 ~ 20%; Surplus is water;
Described extracellular polysaccharide is the extracellular polysaccharide secreted by the halomereid that the promise of French Brittany Abel shellfish is marine, and it forms the mixture be made up of galactose, N-acetyl glucosamine.
2. ternary moisturizing according to claim 1 lock water composition, it is characterized in that, described grass green salicornia europaeal extract is prepared by the following method: grass green salicornia europaeal is dry and pulverize, and filters for subsequent use through 100 eye mesh screens.Adopt ethanol water as Extraction medium, be placed on ultrasonic cell disruptor, carry out supersound extraction 1.5h.Shifted out by extract after supersound extraction, filter, residue ethanol water washs, and filter, merging filtrate, carries out concentrating under reduced pressure by filtrate, filters and obtains grass green salicornia europaeal extract.
3. compositions according to claim 2, is characterized in that: in the preparation method of described grass green salicornia europaeal extract, and the mass fraction of ethanol water is 60%; The grass green salicornia europaeal of every a weight adds the ethanol water of 4-9 part weight.
4. ternary moisturizing lock water composition according to claim 1 is for the preparation of the application of cosmetics.
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| CN104306318B (en) * | 2014-10-29 | 2017-01-11 | 珀莱雅化妆品股份有限公司 | Moisturizing composition granule and preparation method thereof |
| CN105030629A (en) * | 2014-12-11 | 2015-11-11 | 黄宗堂 | Salicornia herbacea cell eye cream and preparation method thereof |
| CN105030628A (en) * | 2014-12-11 | 2015-11-11 | 黄宗堂 | Salicornia herbacea cell essence and preparation method thereof |
| CN105030632A (en) * | 2014-12-25 | 2015-11-11 | 黄宗堂 | Salicornia herbacea cell hair-growing essence and preparation method thereof |
| EP3156793B1 (en) * | 2015-10-16 | 2019-01-16 | Unilever PLC | Testing method for specific ingredients in antiperspirant and humectant cosmetic compositions |
| CN104887609B (en) * | 2015-06-19 | 2017-09-12 | 广州科玛生物科技股份有限公司 | A kind of moisture saver mask liquid and preparation method thereof |
| CN106667856A (en) * | 2017-03-08 | 2017-05-17 | 国东启 | Calming anti-allergy skin care composition and skin care product |
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| CN108969400A (en) * | 2018-09-28 | 2018-12-11 | 巴中职业技术学院 | A kind of pectin facial mask that leaf extracts |
| CN110101618A (en) * | 2019-05-29 | 2019-08-09 | 尚赫（天津）科技开发有限公司 | Using the moisture-keeping composition of 4XMoisLock quadruple molecular layer water lock technology |
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