CN103767972A - Ternary moistening and hydrating composition and application thereof in cosmetics - Google Patents
Ternary moistening and hydrating composition and application thereof in cosmetics Download PDFInfo
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- CN103767972A CN103767972A CN201410035756.XA CN201410035756A CN103767972A CN 103767972 A CN103767972 A CN 103767972A CN 201410035756 A CN201410035756 A CN 201410035756A CN 103767972 A CN103767972 A CN 103767972A
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Abstract
The invention discloses a ternary moistening and hydrating composition. The composition is prepared from the following components in percentage by mass: 0.01-10 percent of salicornia herbacea extract, 0.01-20 percent of exopolysaccharides and 0.01-20 percent of beta-glucan. The ternary moistening and hydrating composition has the effects of effectively moistening and durably hydrating, can constantly maintain moisture of skin corneum, guarantees the wetness of skin, and enables skin to be firm, elastic and glossy. The invention further provides application of the ternary moistening and hydrating composition in preparing cosmetics.
Description
Technical field
The invention belongs to cosmetic field, relate to a kind of cosmetics that contain three kinds of lock water moisturizing compositions.
Background technology
Water is Source of life, is the source of all things on earth, and the existence of water makes nature all things on earth be able to life, samsara, metabolism, is also the basis that the mankind maintain vital movement.Skin be the water storage storehouse that body weight for humans is wanted, research shows, nearly 75% moisture is stored in skin, and cuticular water content is generally between 10～20%, in the time of moisture of skin abundance, inner all cell and organelles are all immersed in body fluid, carry out normal substance metabolism, transmission of information, thus maintain normal organizational structure and physiological function, assurance skin barrier function is normal, resists invasion and attack and the stimulation of extraneous undesirable element; Just show as skin beauty water profit, smooth, fine and smooth, high resilience and gloss in outside.And in the time that the water content in keratodermatitis is less than 10% due to a variety of causes, skin there will be dry and astringent, tight sense, surface has tiny desquamation, even produces tiny wrinkle.The skin of long-term hydropenia also can be dry and cracked, lax, obscure, and be very easy to irritated.Oily skin can cause water oil unbalance because of hydropenia, more control the problems such as more oily initiation small pox, corse sweat pore.Therefore, in operational maintenance, will focus on replenishing water and preserving moisture, help keratodermatitis to maintain in best water content environment, therefore all skin problems all can improve.
Although the skin-protection product kind of replenishing water and preserving moisture is a lot of on the market, its effect majority can not be satisfactory.First, the moisture that large multi-product only can supplement skin surface, cannot deeply improve the moisture of cortex, fails fundamentally to solve xerosis cutis problem.Secondly, part replenishing water and preserving moisture product uses natural plants, Chinese herbal medicine extract in the market, mostly adopts organic solvent extraction, more or less all can have partial solvent to remain in cosmetics, and this has brought hidden danger to user's safety.
Summary of the invention
The object of the invention is to solve the deficiencies in the prior art, a kind of ternary moisturizing lock water composition is provided, deep layer moisturizing can be provided, lock water texts lastingly.The present invention further provides the application of described ternary moisturizing lock water composition for the preparation of cosmetics.
Above-mentioned purpose of the present invention is achieved by the following technical programs:
A kind of ternary moisturizing lock water composition of the present invention, comprises the following composition by mass percent: grass green salicornia europaeal extract 0.01-10%; Extracellular polysaccharide 0.01-20%; And beta glucan 0.01～20%; Surplus is water.
According to the further feature of ternary moisturizing lock water composition of the present invention, described grass green salicornia europaeal extract is prepared by the following method: grass green salicornia europaeal is dried and is pulverized, filter for subsequent use through 100 eye mesh screens.Adopt ethanol water as extracting medium, be placed on ultrasonic cell disruptor, carry out supersound extraction 1.5h.After supersound extraction, extract is shifted out, filter, residue washs with ethanol water, filters, and merging filtrate, carries out concentrating under reduced pressure by filtrate, filters and obtains grass green salicornia europaeal extract.
Preferably, in the preparation method of described grass green salicornia europaeal extract, the mass fraction of ethanol water is 60%; The grass green salicornia europaeal of every a weight adds the ethanol water of 4-9 part weight.
Grass green salicornia europaeal is on a kind of geavy salt matter soil of being born in salt-soda soil, salt lakeside and seabeach, river valley humidity, to have the green plants of stalk without leaf, is rich in vitamin C, also contains 18 seed amino acids, is the green health care food of useful human body.It is that fat-soluble Salicornia Bigelovii Torr. belongs to medicinal herbs, adapts to the soil of less salt to high content of salt, and can store moisture and transmission ammonium ion, a kind of bionical active component, by stimulating carbamide passage (conveying that comprises ammonium ion, the synthetic and storage of carbamide), increase the synthetic of carbamide and store; Improving cohesiveness and the healing power of skin avoids carbamide to run off.
According to the further feature of ternary moisturizing lock water composition of the present invention; described extracellular polysaccharide is the extracellular polysaccharide of being secreted by the marine halomereid of French Brittany Abel shellfish promise, the mixture that its composition is made up of galactose, N-acetyl glucosamine.For example, can adopt the product purchased from French CODIF company, it is a kind of concentrate being obtained by bioreactor culture, is rich in natural and has galactose and a N-acetyl glucosamine of the novel molecular of special construction.This extract has the effects such as promotion is hyaluronic synthesizes, the natural immune system of the inherent moisturizing of reinforcement skin, storage capacity, the differentiation of promotion keratinocyte, promotion cell turnover, activation skin.
According to the further feature of ternary moisturizing lock water composition of the present invention, described beta glucan is mushroom beta glucan.Described beta glucan claims again dextran, is a kind of polysaccharide, is present in the mucus that certain micro-organisms secretes in growth course, has higher molecular weight.Mushroom glucosan is a kind of polysaccharide of natural extract, mushroom glucosan is to be called and the aquatic year cultivation silk of mushroom of " Schizophyllum commune Franch． ", to extract the pure beta glucan obtaining from one, it is the polymer of a kind of height water-soluble " β-1,6-branched-β-1,3-glucan ".Beta glucan, because of its special key connected mode and the existence of intramolecular hydrogen bond, causes the molecular structure of spiral, and the structure of this uniqueness can make the moisture absorbing better maintain, and reaches the effect of lock water.Mushroom glucosan also has the fibroblast of promotion and Keratinocytic migration reaches reparation loss skin, cicatrize a wound, the immunity of the activation enhancing body of stimulating expression of macrophage, also have the effects such as antiinflammatory, anti-ultraviolet simultaneously, especially high moistening effect, contains a large amount of hydroxyls in its structure of mushroom glucosan, can form hydrogen bond with the hydroxyl of halomereid extracellular polysaccharide, collaborative water suction, makes skin reach deeper moisturizing, lock water effect.
The preparation method of ternary moisturizing lock water composition of the present invention is: at normal temperatures, by grass green salicornia europaeal extract, extracellular polysaccharide, mushroom beta glucan are fully uniformly mixed by above-mentioned formula.
The usage of ternary moisturizing lock water composition of the present invention is: can be used as replenishing water and preserving moisture functional component, directly add in the middle of the formula of basic skin protection.Except above-mentioned these components, while preparing skin care item, can also add common component in emulsifying agent, antiseptic and other skin care item, skin care item that the concrete material basis adding will configure and determining.The skin care item type that can be used for configuration is extensive, comprises emollient cream, skin lotion, moisturizer, moisture retention water, facial cleaning cream etc.
Compared with prior art, the effect that ternary moisturizing of the present invention lock water composition has efficient moisture-retention, locks lastingly water, can continue to keep the moisture of keratodermatitis, guarantees the moist degree of skin, makes skin-tightening, is rich in elasticity, gloss.Specifically, comprise following several respects:
First, water is caught in the external world, deep layer water storage; Utilize in extracellular polysaccharide and its molecular structure of mushroom beta glucan and contain the collaborative moisture catching in external environment of a large amount of hydroxyls, be stored in horny layer in conjunction with a large amount of moisture content by the mode that forms hydrogen bond, reach the collaborative water moisturizing effect of catching preferably.Meanwhile, utilize grass green salicornia europaeal extract, increase the expression of carbamide passage, promote the synthetic and storage of carbamide, run off thereby reduce carbamide, reach the effect of deep layer water storage.In addition, extracellular polysaccharide main component N-acetyl glucosamine can synthesize glucosaminoglycan (GAGS), and GAGS has skin corium water storage function, further improves its water storage effect.
Secondly, top layer lock water; Extracellular polysaccharide and mushroom beta glucan are except having from the external world catches the ability of moisture, and its strand can also be interweaved and reticulate, and with the hydrogen bonded of water, play superpower water conservation, lock water effect in addition; And polysaccharide has good filming performance, can form the uniform natural lock water thin film of one deck at skin surface, reduce the evaporation of skin surface moisture, keep skin surface to lock lastingly water effect, make the lasting water of skin tender.
In sum, ternary moisturizing lock water composition of the present invention can be used to the cosmetics that preparation has efficient moisture-retention, locks lastingly water texts.
Accompanying drawing explanation
Fig. 1 is the curve chart that skin moisture content changes.
Fig. 2 is skin percutaneous water loss rate change curve.
Fig. 3 is the change curve of ternary composition Different adding amount to skin moisture content.
Fig. 4 is the change curve of ternary composition Different adding amount to the water loss of skin percutaneous.
The specific embodiment
(1) ternary composition performance of keeping humidity is evaluated
1. the raw material of compositions:
Choose following three kinds of one-tenth and be grouped into " ternary composition ", by experiment the performance of keeping humidity of average this ternary composition.
Grass green salicornia europaeal extract: extract voluntarily, prepare by the following method:
Grass green salicornia europaeal is dried and is pulverized, filter for subsequent use through 100 eye mesh screens.Adopt ethanol water as extracting medium, be placed on ultrasonic cell disruptor, carry out supersound extraction 1.5h.After supersound extraction, extract is shifted out, filter, residue washs with ethanol water, filters, and merging filtrate, carries out concentrating under reduced pressure by filtrate, filters and obtains grass green salicornia europaeal extract.
Preferably, in the preparation method of described grass green salicornia europaeal extract, the mass fraction of ethanol water is 60%; The grass green salicornia europaeal of every a weight adds the ethanol water of 4-9 part weight.
Extracellular polysaccharide: commercially available prod, international specialty name cosmetic material (INCI) name is called plankton extractions.Preferably, adopt the extracellular polysaccharide by the halomereid secretion in Abel shellfish promise (France-Brittany), the mixture that its composition is made up of galactose, N-acetyl glucosamine.For example,, purchased from the product of French CODIF company.
Mushroom beta glucan: commercially available prod, international specialty name cosmetic material (INCI) name is called beta glucan, for example, buys the product from company of Korea S hundred bright moral (BIOLAND).
2. experimental technique and result
A. hygroscopic assay method
Unsaturated carbonate potassium solution and saturated ammonium sulfate solution are placed in respectively in two exsiccators, deposit in 20 ℃ of constant temperature ovens, make relative humidity (R.H.) and be 43% and 81% environment, measure for moisture absorption.Accurately take sample, put into two exsiccators, after certain hour, take again its quality, calculate hydroscopicity by following formula:
B. the assay method of moisture retention
It is 10% water that sample after dry constant weight is added to mass fraction, is placed in the exsiccator that discolour silica gel is housed, and under capable and experienced dry condition, records water content over time, calculates moisturizing rate by following formula:
C. moisture absorption, moisturizing test result analysis
Select moisture absorption, the good glycerol of moistening effect, hyaluronic acid (HA) to test in contrast, by moisture absorption, moisturizing rate under several raw materials moisture absorption, moisturizing rate and 1:1:1 ratio separately under test certain condition.Respectively the each 1.5g of Measurement accuracy sample, is placed in plate, and water absorption rate and the each relative humidity (R.H.) testing each sample relative humidity (R.H.) and be under 43% and 81% environment are moisturizing rate under 43% condition.Its result is as follows: table 1. sample is at 20 ℃, R.H.43%, and the hydroscopicity (Ra) of R.H.81% and moisturizing rate (Rr) are (24h)
Glycerol is the more common good wetting agent of moistening effect, is often used as the adjuvant of moisturizer.Hyaluronic acid is the splendid wetting agent of a kind of performance of keeping humidity, as experiment contrast group, can verify preferably moisture absorption, the moistening effect of this moisture-keeping composition with glycerol, hyaluronic acid.By above experimental data, can find out, preferred grass green salicornia europaeal extract, extracellular polysaccharide and mushroom beta glucan, all there is certain moisture absorption, moistening effect, but moisture absorption, the moistening effect of its effect and glycerol are similar, there is larger gap with hyaluronic moisture absorption, moistening effect, but by after composite in 1:1:1 ratio, its moisture absorption, moisture-retaining capacity significantly improve, suitable with hyaluronic moisture absorption, moistening effect, three kinds of raw materials of this explanation have certain collaborative moisture-absorbing moisture-keeping effect.There is excellent moisture absorption and moisture-retaining capacity, alternative expensive hyaluronic acid.
(2) application and the performance evaluation of ternary moisturizing lock water composition of the present invention in cosmetics
According to above-mentioned definite ternary composition, be prepared into ternary moisturizing lock water cosmetics with the common reagent of cosmetic field.
As shown in table 2, prepare the protective skin cream of 7 different formulations.
The protective skin cream (unit: percetage by weight) of table 2. different formulations
By above-mentioned formula, component A, B component are heated to respectively to 75 ℃, under agitation the mixture of B component is slowly added in component A, make its emulsifying, continue to stir, in the time that being down to 50 ℃, temperature adds component C and component D, and stir and be cooled to room temperature.
Above-mentioned 7 cosmetics that provide are carried out to the detection of following moistening effect.
1. the moisture test of skin: adopt Corneometer CM825, use the variation of product front and back keratodermatitis capacitance to weigh the variation of water content of stratum corneum by measurement, thereby evaluate the moisture-keeping efficacy of cosmetics, this method is carried out quantification to the moisture of keratodermatitis, can sensitive situation of change of reacting intuitively skin moisture content, be one of common method of evaluating of current moisture-keeping cosmetics effect.
Experimental technique: randomly draw 15 tested volunteers, wherein, 7 of male, 8 of women.Testee needs first wash hands forearm, and the 30min that sits quietly under the humidity environment of setting, then marks 3*3cm in tester left and right forearm side
2the square Experimental Area of size, test zone using left arm as moisturizer, the corresponding symmetrical region of right arm is blank, the moisture that detects again each experiment position with Corneometer CM825 test, repeats respectively 5 times, draws the meansigma methods of each test, record data, by calculating the average hydration rate of 15 volunteers in different time spaced points, by following formula calculated hydration rate, result is as shown in the table again:
15 tested volunteers' of table 3. different time spaced points mean skin hydration rate (%)
According to above test data, can show that skin moisture content changes and the curve chart of percutaneous water loss quantitative change, as shown in Figures 1 to 4.
According to test data and curve chart 1 and Fig. 2, can draw, the replenishing water and preserving moisture lock water effect of the protective skin cream that embodiment 1,2,3,4 provides is all better than not adding embodiment 5 protective skin cream of any extract.And the moisturizing lock water effect of adding composite embodiment 1 protective skin cream of three kinds of extracts is best, from figure, can obviously find out, other several groups of protective skin cream are after using 1 hour, its experimenter's moisture content of skin is reduction, the continuous increase tendency of percutaneous moisture flow vector always, and use embodiment 1 protective skin cream experimenter moisture content of skin to be progressively rising, the progressively downward trend of percutaneous moisture flow vector, this has illustrated, adopt the compositions of ternary built to have preferably collaborative moisturizing, lock water effect, its composite effect is than wherein any independent result of use is far better.According to test data and curve chart 3 and Fig. 4, can draw, along with the increase of compositions consumption in formula of ternary built, experimenter's moisture content of skin be progressively rise, the progressively downward trend of percutaneous moisture flow vector, its moisturizing lock water effect is become better and better.But consider Cost Problems, can require to select suitable ratio according to different-effect.
By above embodiment, can draw: ternary moisturizing lock water constituent extracellular polysaccharide of the present invention, mushroom beta glucan, grass green salicornia europaeal extract, have good collaborative moisture absorption, moisture-retaining capacity.The replenishing water and preserving moisture skin care item that this ternary composition is prepared, have good deep layer moisturizing, lock lastingly the moistening effect of water, even under dehumidifier, dry environment, still can make skin keep for a long time good moisture, make the lasting water of skin tender.
Claims (6)
1. a ternary moisturizing lock water composition, is characterized in that, comprises the following composition by mass percent:
Grass green salicornia europaeal extract 0.01-10%;
Extracellular polysaccharide 0.01-20%; And
Beta glucan 0.01～20%; Surplus is water.
2. ternary moisturizing lock water composition according to claim 1, is characterized in that, described grass green salicornia europaeal extract is prepared by the following method: grass green salicornia europaeal is dried and is pulverized, filter for subsequent use through 100 eye mesh screens.Adopt ethanol water as extracting medium, be placed on ultrasonic cell disruptor, carry out supersound extraction 1.5h.After supersound extraction, extract is shifted out, filter, residue washs with ethanol water, filters, and merging filtrate, carries out concentrating under reduced pressure by filtrate, filters and obtains grass green salicornia europaeal extract.
3. compositions according to claim 2, is characterized in that: in the preparation method of described grass green salicornia europaeal extract, the mass fraction of ethanol water is 60%; The grass green salicornia europaeal of every a weight adds the ethanol water of 4-9 part weight.
4. ternary moisturizing lock water composition according to claim 1; it is characterized in that: described extracellular polysaccharide is the extracellular polysaccharide of being secreted by the marine halomereid of French Brittany Abel shellfish promise, the mixture that its composition is made up of galactose, N-acetyl glucosamine.
5. ternary moisturizing lock water composition according to claim 1, is characterized in that, described beta glucan is mushroom beta glucan.
6. ternary moisturizing lock water composition according to claim 1 is for the preparation of the application of cosmetics.
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| CN105030629A (en) * | 2014-12-11 | 2015-11-11 | 黄宗堂 | Salicornia herbacea cell eye cream and preparation method thereof |
| CN105030632A (en) * | 2014-12-25 | 2015-11-11 | 黄宗堂 | Salicornia herbacea cell hair-growing essence and preparation method thereof |
| CN105030628A (en) * | 2014-12-11 | 2015-11-11 | 黄宗堂 | Salicornia herbacea cell essence and preparation method thereof |
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| CN110101618A (en) * | 2019-05-29 | 2019-08-09 | 尚赫（天津）科技开发有限公司 | Using the moisture-keeping composition of 4XMoisLock quadruple molecular layer water lock technology |
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| CN105078811A (en) * | 2014-05-23 | 2015-11-25 | 广州市白云联佳精细化工厂 | COF plant hydrophile-lipophile balance factor |
| CN104306318B (en) * | 2014-10-29 | 2017-01-11 | 珀莱雅化妆品股份有限公司 | Moisturizing composition granule and preparation method thereof |
| CN104306318A (en) * | 2014-10-29 | 2015-01-28 | 珀莱雅化妆品股份有限公司 | Moisturizing composition granule and preparation method thereof |
| CN105030629A (en) * | 2014-12-11 | 2015-11-11 | 黄宗堂 | Salicornia herbacea cell eye cream and preparation method thereof |
| CN105030628A (en) * | 2014-12-11 | 2015-11-11 | 黄宗堂 | Salicornia herbacea cell essence and preparation method thereof |
| CN105030632A (en) * | 2014-12-25 | 2015-11-11 | 黄宗堂 | Salicornia herbacea cell hair-growing essence and preparation method thereof |
| CN107690577A (en) * | 2015-06-05 | 2018-02-13 | 荷兰联合利华有限公司 | Method of testing for the specific composition in antiperspirant and wetting agent cosmetic composition |
| CN104887609B (en) * | 2015-06-19 | 2017-09-12 | 广州科玛生物科技股份有限公司 | A kind of moisture saver mask liquid and preparation method thereof |
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| CN106667856A (en) * | 2017-03-08 | 2017-05-17 | 国东启 | Calming anti-allergy skin care composition and skin care product |
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