CN106567240B - 一种靛蓝牛仔织物生产方法 - Google Patents

一种靛蓝牛仔织物生产方法 Download PDF

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CN106567240B
CN106567240B CN201610944963.6A CN201610944963A CN106567240B CN 106567240 B CN106567240 B CN 106567240B CN 201610944963 A CN201610944963 A CN 201610944963A CN 106567240 B CN106567240 B CN 106567240B
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陈美玉
来侃
来悦
孙润军
刘呈坤
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Xian Polytechnic University
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Abstract

本发明公开了一种靛蓝牛仔织物生产方法，具体按照以下步骤实施：步骤1，将原棉开松、除杂并分梳去除短纤维；步骤2，将步骤1所获得棉纤维进行高温碱‑氧液煮练；步骤3，制备得到靛蓝染色棉条；步骤4，将步骤3中所制得染色棉条依次进行多道并条、粗纱、细纱生产加工，获得靛蓝棉纱；步骤5，将步骤4所得的靛蓝棉纱作为经纱进行织造。解决了现有牛仔织物采用散纤维染色存在的染色过程中堆积结块致使染色过程繁琐，染色不均匀等问题，实现靛蓝牛仔高效短流程生产。

Description

一种靛蓝牛仔织物生产方法
技术领域
本发明属于纺织技术领域，涉及一种靛蓝牛仔织物生产方法。
背景技术
牛仔织物因承载特殊的文化含义而深受消费者喜爱。牛仔布的染色包括靛蓝、硫化黑、黑宝蓝、蓝包黑、彩篮等各种色彩和对应的染色方法，其中，牛仔布靛蓝染料染色是上百年来的传统工艺，在牛仔织物中占主导地位。靛蓝，化学名称3,3′-二氧-2,2′-联吲哚基-5,5′-二磺酸二钠盐，分子式C16H8N2Na2O8S2，又名食品蓝1号、食用青色2号、食用蓝、酸性靛蓝、硬化靛蓝，为水溶性非偶氮类着色剂。靛蓝不能直接溶于水，因此靛蓝染料对棉纱的染色，其前提是靛蓝必须首先可溶于水，最常用的方法是采用在还原剂(保险粉)的作用下，将靛蓝染料中的羰基转化成羟基，形成隐色酸状态，调整染液中还原电位达到－760mV，且具有足量的还原剂和碱剂时，隐色酸被还原成水溶性的单酚钠离子型的色体，对纱线进行上色，再通过空气中的氧气将纱线上的钠盐染料氧化成靛蓝而坚固地吸附在纱线或织物上，完成靛蓝染色过程。
靛蓝牛仔织物制备有经纱染色交织、织物染色、和散纤维染色等三种方法，其中传统靛蓝牛仔织物工艺技术通常采用经纱染色、浆纱织造、水洗以及各种后整理的工艺，经纱染色方法包括经轴多染槽染浆联合工艺、经轴单染槽环状染色工艺(或卷染上浆工艺)、球经整经绳状染色工艺。上述方法中各存在优缺点，其中织物染色可以采用多种染色设备，效率高，成本低，但由于该方法为经纬纱同时染色，无法形成牛仔织物的色织效果。散纤维染色可以实现最大的灵活加工方式，但由于靛蓝染料染色的原理限制，染色过程中需要多次进行还原-氧化作用，因此散纤维染色过程中由于散纤维堆积结块等原因，致使染色过程繁琐，染色不均匀等问题；经纱染色工艺流程较长，设备和工艺控制要求较高，成本较高。
与传统的经纱染色相比，散纤维靛蓝染色可以较低成本的实现靛蓝染色的单纱，这样可以大大提高牛仔织物设计、生产加工的灵活性和产品花色品种种类，特别实现轻薄型牛仔织物和针织牛仔织物用纱线品种，但散纤维染色存在上述技术难题。本专利提出通过棉条靛蓝染色的技术原理，实现散纤维连续的靛蓝染色，制备出牛仔织物用单纱，特别高支靛蓝牛仔单纱。从基础理论上讲，靛蓝染料染色需要还原-氧化过程，相对应具体生产过程，需要将棉纤维(或纱线)经过多次在染料中浸渍，在空气中氧化固色的过程。
发明内容
本发明的目的是提供一种靛蓝牛仔织物生产方法，解决了现有牛仔织物采用散纤维染色存在的染色过程中堆积结块致使染色过程繁琐，染色不均匀等问题，实现靛蓝牛仔高效短流程生产。
本发明所采用的技术方案是，一种靛蓝牛仔织物生产方法，具体按照以下步骤实施：
步骤1，将原棉开松、除杂并分梳去除短纤维；
步骤2，将步骤1所获得棉纤维进行高温碱-氧液煮练；
步骤3，制备得到靛蓝染色棉条；
步骤4，将步骤3中所制得染色棉条依次进行多道并条、粗纱、细纱生产加工，获得靛蓝棉纱；
步骤5，将步骤4所得的靛蓝棉纱作为经纱进行织造。
本发明的特点还在于，
步骤2具体按照以下步骤实施：
将步骤1所获得棉纤维浸没于煮练剂中，在温度90～100℃的条件下进行煮练，煮练时间为30～60分钟。
步骤2中的煮练剂的成分及含量为，氢氧化钠6～12g/L、双氧水5～10g/L、亚硫酸钠2～5g/L、磷酸三钠3～4g/L、硅酸钠2～4g/L、精练剂0.5～1g/L，其中，精炼剂为GC-120。
步骤3具体按照以下步骤实施：
步骤3.1，制条，将步骤2所获得的煮练后的棉纤维依次连续进行制备成条，制条方法为梳棉制条、精梳制条、针梳制条中的一种；制成的棉条的线密度为5～20g/m；
步骤3.2，将步骤3.1制成的棉条进行螺旋式循环染色-氧化，具体为：将棉条以间距1～5cm进行螺旋状排列，并以一定的移动速度向前螺旋移动，螺旋排列的棉条下半部分浸没于靛蓝染液中，上半部分暴露于空气中，浸没于靛蓝染液下半部分棉条的长度与暴露于空气中上半部分棉条长度的比例为1︰3～6；其中所述的移动速度为1～100m/min；
步骤3.3，经过水洗、烘干、圈条收集等步骤获得到靛蓝染色棉条。
步骤3.2中，所述靛蓝染液的成分及用量为靛蓝8～12g/L、烧碱10～20g/L及保险粉10～20g/L。
步骤5中织造的具体方法为：对于牛仔机织物，按照织造所需要求进行整经、浆纱、织造，及作为纬纱直接进行织造获得机织牛仔织物；对于针织物，利用步骤4制备的纱线直接进行针织加工获得针织牛仔织物。
本发明的有益效果是，与散纤维靛蓝染色相比，本发明开发的棉条靛蓝染色，具有相同的生产灵活性，同时实现了连续靛蓝染色，突破散纤维只能间歇难题，大幅度提高了生产效率。与经纱靛蓝染色相比，本发明的生产方式，不仅可以用于机织牛仔织物，而且可以用于针织牛仔织物，生产灵活；同时本发明生产工艺技术和设备简单，生产控制容易，产品质量高，占地面积和长度小，生产成本低。
具体实施方式
下面结合具体实施方式对本发明进行详细说明。
一种靛蓝牛仔织物生产方法，具体按照以下步骤实施：
步骤1，将原棉开松、除杂并分梳去除短纤维；
步骤2，将步骤1所获得棉纤维进行高温碱-氧液煮练；
具体为：将步骤1所获得棉纤维浸没于煮练剂中。其中所述煮练剂的成分及用量为氢氧化钠6～12g/L、双氧水5～10g/L、亚硫酸钠2～5g/L、磷酸三钠3～4g/L、硅酸钠2～4g/L、精练剂0.5～1g/L，所述煮练温度为90～100℃，煮练时间为30～60分钟，精炼剂为GC-120；
即每升煮练剂中加入氢氧化钠6～12g、双氧水5～10g、亚硫酸钠2～5g、磷酸三钠3～4g、硅酸钠2～4g、精练剂0.5～1g。
步骤3，制备得到靛蓝染色棉条；
具体的步骤为：
步骤3.1制条，将步骤2所获得的煮练后的棉纤维依次连续进行制备成条，制条方法为梳棉制条、精梳制条、针梳制条中的一种；制成的棉条的线密度为5-20g/m；
步骤3.2，将步骤3.1制成的棉条进行螺旋式循环染色-氧化，具体为：
将棉条以间距1～5cm进行螺旋状排列，并以一定的移动速度向前螺旋移动，螺旋排列的棉条下半部分浸没于靛蓝染液中，上半部分暴露于空气中，浸没于靛蓝染液下半部分棉条的长度与暴露于空气中上半部分棉条长度的比例为1︰3～6。其中移动速度为1～100m/min。
所述靛蓝染液的成分及用量为：靛蓝8～12g/L、烧碱10～20g/L及保险粉10～20g/L，即，每升染液中含有靛蓝8～12g，烧碱10～20g，保险粉10～20g。
步骤3.3，经过水洗、烘干、圈条收集等步骤获得到靛蓝染色棉条；
步骤4，将步骤3中所制得染色棉条依次进行多道并条、粗纱、细纱生产加工，获得靛蓝棉纱；制备过程中，根据最终需要的棉纱产品的细度要求，采用常规的生产工艺参数进行；
步骤5，将步骤4所得的靛蓝棉纱作为经纱按照织造所需要求进行整经、浆纱(或不浆纱)、织造，或作为纬纱直接进行织造获得机织牛仔织物；或直接进行针织加工获得针织牛仔织物。
实施例1
步骤(1)采用棉纺清花设备对原棉进行开松、除杂并分梳去除短纤维。
步骤(2)将步骤(1)所获得棉纤维置于不锈钢煮练装置中进行煮练，煮练剂的组成为：NaOH：6g/L、双氧水：5g/L、亚硫酸钠3g/L、磷酸三钠3.5g/L、硅酸钠3g/L、精练剂(GC-120)0.8g/L；煮练温度为100℃，煮练时间为30分钟。
步骤(3)采用梳棉-染色联合设备依次对步骤(2)所获得原棉进行加工，通过梳棉装置进行分梳去除短纤维并制备成线密度为5g/m的棉条；通过螺旋靛蓝染色装置对棉条进行靛蓝还原-氧化染色，靛蓝染色液的组成为靛蓝染料8g/L、NaOH：12g/L、保险粉10g/L。染色温度25℃；通过水洗装置进行两道水洗，洗去棉条上的浮色，第一道水洗温度为80-90℃，第二道水洗温度为常温；通过烘干装置进行烘干处理，烘干温度为105℃；最后由圈条装置收集染色棉条。上述过程中，将棉条以间距1cm进行螺旋状排列，棉条的运行速度为50m/min，浸没于靛蓝染液下半部分棉条的长度与暴露于空气中上半部分棉条长度的比例为1︰6。
步骤(4)按棉纺生产加工工艺过程中并条、粗纱、细纱常规工艺参数进行生产加工出靛蓝染色纱线。
步骤(5)将上述步骤生产加工获得的靛蓝棉纱，利用针织大圆机进行织造加工获得针织牛仔织物。
经测定上述方法制备的机织牛仔织物的K/S值(即织物表面得色深度，K/S值越大,试样表面颜色越深,即有色物质浓度越高。)为14.9668，干摩擦牢度3-4级，湿摩擦牢度为3级。
实施例2
(1)采用棉纺清花设备对原棉进行开松、除杂并分梳去除短纤维。
(2)将步骤(1)所获得棉纤维置于不锈钢煮练装置中进行煮练，煮练剂的组成为：NaOH 10g/L、双氧水8g/L、亚硫酸钠5g/L、磷酸三钠3g/L、硅酸钠2g/L，精练剂(GC-120)1g/L；煮练温度为96℃，煮练时间为50分钟。
(3)采用梳棉-染色联合设备依次对步骤(2)所获得原棉进行加工，通过梳棉装置进行分梳去除短纤维并制备成线密度为10g/m的棉条；通过螺旋靛蓝染色装置对棉条进行靛蓝还原-氧化染色，靛蓝染色液的组成为靛蓝染料10g/L、NaOH：13g/L、保险粉15.0g/L。染色温度25℃；通过水洗装置进行两道水洗，洗去棉条上的浮色，第一道水洗温度为80-90℃，第二道水洗温度为常温；通过烘干装置进行烘干处理，烘干温度为105℃；最后由圈条装置收集染色棉条。上述过程中，将棉条以间距5cm进行螺旋状排列，棉条的运行速度为100m/min，浸没于靛蓝染液下半部分棉条的长度与暴露于空气中上半部分棉条长度的比例为1︰3。
(4)按棉纺生产加工工艺过程中并条、粗纱、细纱常规工艺参数进行生产加工出靛蓝染色纱线。
(5)将上述步骤生产加工获得的靛蓝棉纱，经过整经、浆纱或不浆纱，织造加工获得机织牛仔织物。
经测定上述方法制备的机织牛仔织物的K/S值为16.8016，干摩擦牢度3-4级，湿摩擦牢度为3级。
实施例3
(1)采用棉纺清花设备对原棉进行开松、除杂并分梳去除短纤维。
(2)将步骤(1)所获得棉纤维置于不锈钢煮练装置中进行煮练，煮练剂的组成为：NaOH 12g/L、双氧水10g/L、亚硫酸钠4.5g/L、磷酸三钠4g/L、硅酸钠4g/L，精练剂(GC-120)0.9g/L；煮练温度为90℃，煮练时间为60分钟。
(3)采用梳棉-染色联合设备依次对步骤(2)所获得原棉进行加工，通过梳棉装置进行分梳去除短纤维并制备成线密度为20g/m的棉条；通过螺旋靛蓝染色装置对棉条进行靛蓝还原-氧化染色，靛蓝染色液的组成为靛蓝染料12g/L、NaOH：20g/L、保险粉20g/L。染色温度25℃；通过水洗装置进行两道水洗，洗去棉条上的浮色，第一道水洗温度为80-90℃，第二道水洗温度为常温；通过烘干装置进行烘干处理，烘干温度为105℃；最后由圈条装置收集染色棉条。上述过程中，将棉条以间距3cm进行螺旋状排列，棉条的运行速度为1m/min，浸没于靛蓝染液下半部分棉条的长度与暴露于空气中上半部分棉条长度的比例为1︰4。
(4)按棉纺生产加工工艺过程中并条、粗纱、细纱常规工艺参数进行生产加工出靛蓝染色纱线。
(5)将上述步骤生产加工获得的靛蓝棉纱，经过整经、浆纱或不浆纱，织造加工获得机织牛仔织物。
针对已有的散纤维染色所采用的缸染方式无法实现连续生产加工技术难题，本专利采用的核心技术原理是先将原棉通过开松、除杂、煮练、分梳加工制备成棉条，将棉条附着在一个可主动转动带有网眼的尘笼表面，通过尘笼转动使棉条在尘笼表面形成具有螺旋形状缠绕，在尘笼表面的支撑下，实现在极小的拉伸张力下连续向前运动，通过在尘笼下端浸渍染液，在尘笼上端进行空气氧化实现纤维的靛蓝染色，解决了散纤维连续染色技术难题。

Claims (5)

1.一种靛蓝牛仔织物生产方法，其特征在于，具体按照以下步骤实施：
步骤1，将原棉开松、除杂并分梳去除短纤维；
步骤2，将步骤1所获得棉纤维进行高温碱-氧液煮练；
步骤3，制备得到靛蓝染色棉条；具体按照以下步骤实施：
步骤3.1，制条，将步骤2所获得的煮练后的棉纤维依次连续进行制备成条，制条方法为梳棉制条、精梳制条、针梳制条中的一种；制成的棉条的线密度为5～20g/m；
步骤3.2，将步骤3.1制成的棉条进行螺旋式循环染色-氧化，具体为：将棉条以间距1～5cm进行螺旋状排列，并以一定的移动速度向前螺旋移动，螺旋排列的棉条下半部分浸没于靛蓝染液中，上半部分暴露于空气中，浸没于靛蓝染液下半部分棉条的长度与暴露于空气中上半部分棉条长度的比例为1︰3～6；其中所述的移动速度为1～100m/min；
步骤3.3，经过水洗、烘干、圈条收集步骤获得到靛蓝染色棉条；
步骤4，将步骤3中所制得染色棉条依次进行多道并条、粗纱、细纱生产加工，获得靛蓝棉纱；
步骤5，将步骤4所得的靛蓝棉纱作为经纱进行织造。
2.根据权利要求1所述的靛蓝牛仔织物生产方法，其特征在于，所述的步骤2具体按照以下步骤实施：
将步骤1所获得棉纤维浸没于煮练剂中，在温度90～100℃的条件下进行煮练，煮练时间为30～60分钟。
3.根据权利要求2所述的靛蓝牛仔织物生产方法，其特征在于，所述的步骤2中的煮练剂的成分及含量为，氢氧化钠6～12g/L、双氧水5～10g/L、亚硫酸钠2～5g/L、磷酸三钠3～4g/L、硅酸钠2～4g/L、精练剂0.5～1g/L，其中，精炼剂为GC-120。
4.根据权利要求1所述的靛蓝牛仔织物生产方法，其特征在于，所述的步骤3.2中，所述靛蓝染液的成分及用量为靛蓝8～12g/L、烧碱10～20g/L及保险粉10～20g/L。
5.根据权利要求1所述的靛蓝牛仔织物生产方法，其特征在于，所述的步骤5中织造的具体方法为：对于牛仔机织物，按照织造所需要求进行整经、浆纱、织造，及作为经纱直接进行织造获得机织牛仔织物；
对于针织物，利用步骤4制备的纱线直接进行针织加工获得针织牛仔织物。
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