CN106436106B - 一种全棉水洗皱布的起皱工艺 - Google Patents

一种全棉水洗皱布的起皱工艺 Download PDF

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CN106436106B
CN106436106B CN201610881705.8A CN201610881705A CN106436106B CN 106436106 B CN106436106 B CN 106436106B CN 201610881705 A CN201610881705 A CN 201610881705A CN 106436106 B CN106436106 B CN 106436106B
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季丛明
官书春
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FUJIAN CO-PROSPERITY HOLDINGS Ltd
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Abstract

本发明公开一种全棉水洗皱布的起皱工艺,包括以下步骤:摊布缝头、平幅退浆—分布、对缝包边—装网袋—起皱处理—水洗脱氧—脱水、人工理布—溢流机酵洗去毛—溢流机染色—脱水、开幅、松式烘干—分匹转烘烘干—成品。本发明一种全棉水洗皱布的起皱工艺,采用组织结构简单的平纹棉坯布,依次经过起皱处理、去毛处理、染色及后整理加工方式生产出来的服装面料具有永久的轻微皱感,且手感舒适,面料吸湿透气,舒适度高。

Description

一种全棉水洗皱布的起皱工艺
技术领域
本发明涉及织物制造技术领域,具体涉及的是一种全棉水洗皱布的起皱工艺。
背景技术
近年来,人们对衣物鞋帽穿着的舒适性和怀旧感的要求日趋渐长,国际、国内市场上流行面料的选材逐渐转移到棉麻等天然纤维面料上,组织结构上则喜欢立体感更强的皱纹织物,而常见的使全棉织物起皱的织造方法有:如利用两种不同经纱张力而起皱,也可利用经纬纱浮长的不同而得到起皱效应,也可利用强捻起皱原理,再经过染整加工使纯棉织物表面出现有规则的条纹或皱纹。利用强捻纱织造起皱织物,高捻度会使纱线成本增加。而且纱线必须经过定捻处理。这些方法对纱线的工艺技术和织造的工艺参数制定要求都很高,难度大,坯布成本也相对较高。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于提供一种全棉水洗皱布的起皱工艺,工艺简单,加工成本低,加工出来的全棉面料是一类具有轻微皱感的产品,且产品吸湿透气,手感好,舒适度高。
为了达成上述目的,本发明的解决方案是:
一种全棉水洗皱布的起皱工艺,包括以下步骤:
(1)摊布缝头、平幅退浆;
(2)分布、对缝包边;
(3)装网袋,将装袋后的布匹放入工业洗衣机内;
(4)起皱处理:在装有布匹和水的工业洗衣机中加入氢氧化钠13~17g/L、双氧水4~6g/L、分散剂0.5~1.5g/L以及双氧水稳定0.1~0.5g/L,充分溶解后,于95~100℃下以正反运转的状态运转90~120min,放水;
(5)水洗脱氧:对经步骤(4)处理的布匹连续进行两道水洗,第一道水洗时放入清水,第二道水洗时放入清水和去氧酶,每道水洗于40~45℃下以正反交替运转的状态水洗10~30min,放水;
(6)脱水、人工理布;
(7)酵洗去毛:经过整理的布匹经过缝头连接后进入装有水的溢流机在松式状态下去毛,加入酵素2.5~3.5%owf,并加入冰醋酸调节洗液的pH值至4~5,于50~60℃下处理20~40min,换水洗净布匹;
(8)染色:溢流机保持在松式状态下,采用活性染料0.1-5%owf,于50~60℃下对经步骤(7)处理后的布匹染色90~120min;
(9)对经步骤(8)染色的布匹依次进行脱水、开幅、松式烘干;
(10)将经步骤(9)处理后的布匹进行分匹转烘烘干。
步骤(1)中,所述平幅退浆为:在平幅状态下将坯布用90~95℃的水水洗去除布身的浆料,使得坯布变软,退浆的车速50m/min,退浆完毕后烘干。
步骤(2)中,所述分布为:将坯布分成多匹50~60米/匹的布匹,防止装网袋后布匹在工业洗衣机内搅缠在一起,所述对缝包边的目的在于减少布面擦伤引起的染色白痕。
步骤(3)中,所述装网袋为:将每8~10匹布装进一个网袋内。
步骤(4)中,加入的氢氧化钠的作用在于:去除布身剩余的浆料,并在松式加工状态下让布匹的棉纤维自然收缩,产生微皱效应,松式加工时织物本身没有张力存在,可以充分地收缩,产生自然的皱纹,;
步骤(5)中,所述去氧酶的用量为0.15~0.25g/L。
步骤(6)中,所述人工理布为:多人配合将网袋内的布匹整理开,平幅摊好以便布匹经过缝头连接后进入溢流机。
步骤(7)中,加入的所述酵素为纤维素酶,加入的酵素的作用在于使得布匹的布面光洁。
步骤(9)中,所述脱水为绳状脱水,所述松式烘干为:将染色后的布匹平幅摊好,在松式烘干机上加柔软剂烘至布匹的含水率为50%;
步骤(10)中,所述分匹转烘烘干为:将含水率为50%的布匹再次分成50~60米/匹的布匹,每一50~60米/匹的布匹转移到转烘机中烘干,使得布匹自然永久地定型、回缩。
采用上述技术方案后,本发明一种全棉水洗皱布的起皱工艺,采用组织结构简单的平纹棉坯布,依次经过织物松式加工状态下的起皱处理、去毛处理、染色及后整理加工方式生产出来的服装面料具有永久的轻微皱感,且手感舒适,面料吸湿透气,舒适度高。
具体实施方式
为了进一步解释本发明的技术方案,下面通过具体实施例来对本发明进行详细阐述。
实施例一
一种全棉水洗皱布的起皱工艺,包括以下步骤:
(1)摊布缝头、将全棉坯布在平幅状态下用90℃的水水洗去除布身的浆料,使得全棉坯布变软,退浆的车速50m/min,退浆完毕后烘干;
(2)将退浆后的全棉坯布分成多匹60米/匹的布匹,防止装网袋后布匹在工业洗衣机内搅缠在一起,对缝包边;
(3)将每10匹布装进一个网袋内,装袋后的布匹放入工业洗衣机内;
(4)起皱处理:在装有布匹和水的工业洗衣机中加入氢氧化钠15g/L、双氧水5g/L、分散剂CP100 1g/L以及双氧水稳定剂DM14030.2g/L,充分溶解后,于100℃下以正反交替运转的状态运转100min,放水;
(5)水洗脱氧:对经步骤(4)处理的布匹连续进行两道水洗,第一道水洗时放入清水,第二道水洗时放入清水和去氧酶,去氧酶的用量为0.2g/L,每道水洗于45℃下以正反交替运转的状态水洗10min,放水;
(6)脱水,多人配合将网袋内的布匹整理开,平幅摊好以便布匹经过缝头连接后进入溢流机;
(7)酵洗去毛:经过整理的布匹经过缝头连接后进入装有水的溢流机在松式状态下去毛,加入纤维素酶3.0%owf,并加入冰醋酸调节洗液的pH值至4~5,于55℃下处理30min,换水洗净布匹;
(8)染色:溢流机保持在松式状态下,采用活性染料5%owf,于60℃下对经步骤(7)处理后的布匹染色90min;
(9)对步骤(8)染色后的布匹经过绳状脱水、开幅,平幅摊好,在松式烘干机上加柔软剂8002烘至布匹的含水率为50%;
(10)将含水率为50%的布匹再次分成60米/匹的布匹,每一60米/匹的布匹转移到转烘机中烘干,使得布匹自然永久地定型、回缩,即加工得到全棉水洗皱布。
本实施例中,分散剂CP100由福建三明天富化工公司购买得到,双氧水稳定剂DM1403由广东德美化工公司购买得到,柔软剂8002由福建协盛协丰印染实业有限公司供应。
实施例二
一种全棉水洗皱布的起皱工艺,包括以下步骤:
(1)摊布缝头、将全棉坯布在平幅状态下用95℃的水水洗去除布身的浆料,使得全棉坯布变软,退浆的车速50m/min,退浆完毕后烘干;
(2)将退浆后的全棉坯布分成多匹60米/匹的布匹,防止装网袋后布匹在工业洗衣机内搅缠在一起,对缝包边;
(3)将每10匹布装进一个网袋内,装袋后的布匹放入工业洗衣机内;
(4)起皱处理:在装有布匹和水的工业洗衣机中加入氢氧化钠13g/L、双氧水4g/L、分散剂CP100 0.5g/L以及双氧水稳定剂DM1403 0.1g/L,充分溶解后,于100℃下以正反交替运转的状态运转90min,放水;
(5)水洗脱氧:对经步骤(4)处理的布匹连续进行两道水洗,第一道水洗时放入清水,第二道水洗时放入清水和去氧酶,去氧酶的用量为0.15g/L,每道水洗于40℃下以正反交替运转的状态水洗20min,放水;
(6)脱水,多人配合将网袋内的布匹整理开,平幅摊好以便布匹经过缝头连接后进入溢流机;
(7)酵洗去毛:经过整理的布匹经过缝头连接后进入装有水的溢流机在松式状态下去毛,加入纤维素酶2.5%owf,并加入冰醋酸调节洗液的pH值至4~5,于50℃下处理40min,换水洗净布匹;
(8)染色:溢流机保持在松式状态下,采用活性染料0.5%owf,于50℃下对经步骤(7)处理后的布匹染色120min;
(9)对步骤(8)染色后的布匹经过绳状脱水、开幅,平幅摊好,在松式烘干机上加柔软剂8002烘至布匹的含水率为50%;
(10)将含水率为50%的布匹再次分成60米/匹的布匹,每一60米/匹的布匹转移到转烘机中烘干,使得布匹自然永久地定型、回缩,即加工得到全棉水洗皱布。
本实施例中,分散剂CP100由福建三明天富化工公司购买得到,双氧水稳定剂DM1403由广东德美化工公司购买得到,柔软剂8002由福建协盛协丰印染实业有限公司供应。
实施例三
一种全棉水洗皱布的起皱工艺,包括以下步骤:
(1)摊布缝头、将全棉坯布在平幅状态下用90℃的水水洗去除布身的浆料,使得全棉坯布变软,退浆的车速50m/min,退浆完毕后烘干;
(2)将退浆后的全棉坯布分成多匹60米/匹的布匹,防止装网袋后布匹在工业洗衣机内搅缠在一起,对缝包边;
(3)将每10匹布装进一个网袋内,装袋后的布匹放入工业洗衣机内;
(4)起皱处理:在装有布匹和水的工业洗衣机中加入氢氧化钠17g/L、双氧水6g/L、分散剂CP100 1.5g/L以及双氧水稳定剂DM1403 0.5g/L,充分溶解后,于95℃下以正反交替运转的状态运转120min,放水;
(5)水洗脱氧:对经步骤(4)处理的布匹连续进行两道水洗,第一道水洗时放入清水,第二道水洗时放入清水和去氧酶,去氧酶的用量为0.25g/L,每道水洗于40℃下以正反交替运转的状态水洗30min,放水;
(6)脱水,多人配合将网袋内的布匹整理开,平幅摊好以便布匹经过缝头连接后进入溢流机;
(7)酵洗去毛:经过整理的布匹经过缝头连接后进入装有水的溢流机在松式状态下去毛,,加入纤维素酶3.5%owf,并加入冰醋酸调节洗液的pH值至4~5,于60℃下处理20min,换水洗净布匹;
(8)染色:溢流机保持在松式状态下,采用活性染料2%owf,于60℃下对经步骤(7)处理后的布匹染色100min;
(9)对步骤(8)染色后的布匹经过绳状脱水、开幅,平幅摊好,在松式烘干机上加柔软剂8002烘至布匹的含水率为50%;
(10)将含水率为50%的布匹再次分成60米/匹的布匹,每一60米/匹的布匹转移到转烘机中烘干,使得布匹自然永久地定型、回缩,即加工得到全棉水洗皱布。
本实施例中,分散剂CP100由福建三明天富化工公司购买得到,双氧水稳定剂DM1403由广东德美化工公司购买得到,柔软剂8002由福建协盛协丰印染实业有限公司供应。
上述实施例并非限定本发明的产品形态和式样,任何所属技术领域的普通技术人员对其所做的适当变化或修饰,皆应视为不脱离本发明的专利范畴。

Claims (9)

1.一种全棉水洗皱布的起皱工艺,其特征在于:包括以下步骤:
(1)摊布缝头、平幅退浆;
(2)分布、对缝包边;
(3)装网袋,将装袋后的布匹放入工业洗衣机内;
(4)起皱处理:在装有布匹和水的工业洗衣机中加入氢氧化钠13~17g/L、双氧水4~6g/L、分散剂0.5~1.5g/L以及双氧水稳定剂0.1~0.5g/L,充分溶解后,于95~100℃下以正反交替运转的状态运转90~120min,放水;
(5)水洗脱氧:对经步骤(4)处理的布匹连续进行两道水洗,第一道水洗时放入清水,第二道水洗时放入清水和去氧酶,每道水洗于40~45℃下以正反交替运转的状态水洗10~30min,放水;
(6)脱水、人工理布;
(7)酵洗去毛:经过整理的布匹经过缝头连接后进入装有水的溢流机在松式状态下去毛,加入酵素2.5~3.5%owf,并加入冰醋酸调节洗液的pH值至4~5,于50~60℃下处理20~40min,换水洗净布匹;
(8)染色:溢流机保持在松式状态下,采用活性染料0.1-5%owf,于50~60℃下对经步骤(7)处理后的布匹染色90~120min;
(9)对经步骤(8)染色的布匹依次进行脱水、开幅、松式烘干;
(10)将经步骤(9)处理后的布匹进行分匹转烘烘干。
2.根据权利要求1所述的一种全棉水洗皱布的起皱工艺,其特征在于:步骤(1)中,所述平幅退浆为:在平幅状态下将坯布用90~95℃的水水洗去除布身的浆料,使得坯布变软,退浆的车速50m/min,退浆完毕后烘干。
3.根据权利要求1所述的一种全棉水洗皱布的起皱工艺,其特征在于:步骤(2)中,所述分布为:将坯布分成多匹50~60米/匹的布匹,防止装网袋后布匹在工业洗衣机内搅缠在一起。
4.根据权利要求1所述的一种全棉水洗皱布的起皱工艺,其特征在于:步骤(3)中,所述装网袋为:将每8~10匹布装进一个网袋内。
5.根据权利要求1所述的一种全棉水洗皱布的起皱工艺,其特征在于:步骤(5)中,所述去氧酶的用量为0.15~0.25g/L。
6.根据权利要求1所述的一种全棉水洗皱布的起皱工艺,其特征在于:步骤(6)中,所述人工理布为:将网袋内的布匹整理开,平幅摊好以便布匹经过缝头连接后进入溢流机。
7.根据权利要求1所述的一种全棉水洗皱布的起皱工艺,其特征在于:步骤(7)中,加入的所述酵素为纤维素酶。
8.根据权利要求1所述的一种全棉水洗皱布的起皱工艺,其特征在于:步骤(9)中,所述脱水为绳状脱水,所述松式烘干为:将染色后的布匹平幅摊好,在松式烘干机上加柔软剂烘至布匹的含水率为50%。
9.根据权利要求1所述的一种全棉水洗皱布的起皱工艺,其特征在于:步骤(10)中,所述分匹转烘烘干为:将含水率为50%的布匹再次分成50~60米/匹的布匹,每一50~60米/匹的布匹转移到转烘机中烘干,使得布匹自然永久地定型、回缩,即得到所述全棉水洗皱布。
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