CN106223003B - 一种涤棉混纺纤维织物的染整工艺 - Google Patents
一种涤棉混纺纤维织物的染整工艺 Download PDFInfo
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- CN106223003B CN106223003B CN201610616699.3A CN201610616699A CN106223003B CN 106223003 B CN106223003 B CN 106223003B CN 201610616699 A CN201610616699 A CN 201610616699A CN 106223003 B CN106223003 B CN 106223003B
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- fabric
- dyeing
- polyester
- mixed fiber
- cotton blend
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- OYINQIKIQCNQOX-UHFFFAOYSA-M 2-hydroxybutyl(trimethyl)azanium;chloride Chemical compound [Cl-].CCC(O)C[N+](C)(C)C OYINQIKIQCNQOX-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种涤棉混纺纤维织物的染整工艺,包括如下步骤:S1、前处理,将涤棉混纺纤维织物依次进行煮漂、酶洗处理;S2、丝光定型,将织物在室温下浸轧碱液后进行预定型;S3、染色,将织物浸入分散染料形成的染液中,30‑40℃入染,以0.8‑1℃/min的升温速率升温至90‑110℃,温水冲洗,红外线预烘后热风烘干;室温下再浸轧还原染料形成的悬浮体染液,浸轧还原液,汽蒸还原,氧化,温水冲洗,皂洗,再水洗烘干;S4、后整理,将依次进行柔软、阻燃整理。本发明所述涤棉混纺纤维织物的染整工艺,其不仅显著改善了织物的手感、弹性等性能,而且染色均匀,色牢度高,还色泽丰满。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及染整加工技术领域,尤其涉及一种涤棉混纺纤维织物的染整工艺。
背景技术
纤维分为化学纤维和天然纤维,天然纤维是指自然界存在和生长的、具有纺织价值的纤维,化学纤维是用天然高分子化合物或人工合成的高分子化合物为原料,经过制备纺丝原液、纺丝和后处理等工序制得的具有纺织性能的纤维,化学纤维具有耐光、耐磨、易洗易干、不霉烂、不被虫蛀等优点,广泛用于制造衣着织物、滤布、运输带、水龙带、绳索、渔网、电绝缘线、医疗缝线、轮胎帘子布和降落伞等。涤棉是一种复合纤维,包括化学纤维涤纶和天然纤维棉,同时具有涤纶和棉的特性,因此可广泛应用于纺织品领域的生产。
随着印染加工技术的进步及新型助剂的开发,对涤棉混纺纤维织物的染整加工虽然有了较大的发展,但是经过一般染整处理的涤棉混纺纤维织物的手感往往还是较硬,弹性和延展性较差,样式单调,人们在穿着这种面料制作的服装过程中,会有紧巴、伸缩不自由的感觉,而且一般的涤棉混纺纤维织物的印染性能较差,主要是由于涤棉混纺纤维织物中棉和涤两种纤维的属性差异,使其前处理及染整工艺较为复杂,尤其是棉涤两种纤维的染色均匀性难度较大,技术要求也相对较高,因此经染整处理后的涤棉混纺纤维织物的穿着性能较差,美感不足。随着传统的涤棉混纺纤维织物已经不能满足市场的需求,大力发展高质量产品是目前涤棉混纺纤维织物甚至服装生产企业面临的关键问题。
发明内容
基于背景技术中存在的问题,本发明提出了一种涤棉混纺纤维织物的染整工艺,其不仅显著改善了织物的手感、弹性等性能,而且染色均匀,色牢度高,还色泽丰满。
本发明提出了一种涤棉混纺纤维织物的染整工艺,包括如下步骤:
S1、前处理,将涤棉混纺纤维织物浸入煮漂液中,在105-115℃下处理15-30min,所述煮漂液包括:精炼剂1-3g/L、烧碱2-5g/L、双氧水6-10g/L、双氧水稳定剂0.5-1g/L,水洗后再浸入酶处理液中,在70-80℃下处理30-60min,所述酶处理液包括:果胶酶0.5-1g/L、纤维素酶1-3g/L、冰醋酸0.5-1g/L、渗透剂1-2g/L;
S2、丝光定型,将经S1前处理后的织物在室温下浸轧碱液,碱液浓度为180-200g/L,施加张力,伸幅,淋洗,100-110℃下汽蒸去碱,80-90℃水洗,加入用量为3-6g/L的醋酸溶液中和,轧水,烘干后进行预定型,预定型的温度为150-160℃,车速为20-30m/min;
S3、染色,将经S2丝光定型后的织物浸入分散染料形成的染液中,浴比为1:15-30,所述染液包括:分散染料1-3%(owf)、pH缓冲剂1-2g/L、匀染剂1-2g/L,30-40℃入染,以0.8-1℃/min的升温速率升温至90-110℃,保温25-35min,30-40℃温水冲洗5-15min,红外线预烘后,60-90℃下热风烘干;室温下再浸轧还原染料形成的悬浮体染液,浴比为1:5-20,悬浮体染液包括:还原染料0.5-5%(owf)、扩散剂1-2g/L、海藻酸钠1-2g/L,再在35-55℃下浸轧还原液,还原液包括:烧碱5-25g/L、保险粉1-10g/L、二氧化硫脲1-5g/L,102-105℃下汽蒸还原0.3-0.5min,用1-1.5g/L的双氧水在40-60℃下氧化5-10min,30-40℃温水冲洗10-20min,90-98℃下皂洗1-5min,再水洗烘干;
S4、后整理,将经S3染色后的织物依次进行柔软、阻燃整理。
优选地,S3中,所述分散染料为微胶囊化分散染料,其制备方法包括:将分散染料和壳聚糖加入到浓度为0.5-3wt%的醋酸溶液中搅拌均匀,加入液体石蜡和吐温-80,室温搅拌30-50min,再加入浓度为1.5-5wt%的戊二醛溶液,5-15℃下固化反应1.5-2.5h,离心,水洗,烘干,得到所述微胶囊化分散染料。
优选地,所述分散染料、壳聚糖、吐温-80、戊二醛溶液的重量比为1:1-3:0.3-0.6:0.1-0.3。
优选地,所述分散染料为Dyster型分散染料。
优选地,S3中,所述还原染料为蒽醌、苯并蒽醌、吖啶稠环系列、苯醌衍生物或苯系衍生物结构的还原染料。
优选地,S4中,柔软整理采用的柔软处理液包括:聚醚氨基改性硅油50-70g/L、抗滑移剂5-15g/L、抗静电剂5-10g/L,柔软整理中,调节pH值为5.5-6,工作温度为100-120℃,车速为40-60m/min。
优选地,S4中,阻燃整理采用的阻燃整理液包括:2,3-环氧丙基三甲基氯化铵20-30g/L、蒙脱土3-5g/L、异丙醇15-20g/L,阻燃整理中,在50-70℃水浴中处理40-60min,浴比为1:20-30。
优选地,所述后整理后还包括预缩,整纬;预缩时,将织物置于预缩整理机内进行预缩处理,预缩整理机的车速为30-70m/min,预缩率为8-14%;整纬时,车速为90-120m/min,通过光电方式来检测纬纱纬移状态,通过电脑计算传给自动纬纱整理器对面料纬纱给予纬纱整理,然后进行矫正和显示,控制所述织物的纬斜≤2%。
本发明中提出的一种涤棉混纺纤维织物的染整工艺,首先在对织物进行前处理中,由于混纺纤维织物中含有的涤纶组分结晶度高,多孔结构对碱的膨润作用较敏感,不宜在浓碱和高温下长时间蒸煮,因此在前处理中采用碱/氧煮漂液进行处理,对织物的色素、麻皮的去除效果较为明显,使得布面的光洁度、白度明显提高,并且织物整体手感较碱处理更柔软,同时考虑到涤棉混纺纤维织物的特性和需要的效果,在退浆操作中,选用酶退浆代替碱退浆进行处理,由于选用的酶处理液只对淀粉浆进行分解,经热洗后,涤纶纤维强力不受影响,并且可以对面料进行了充分润湿,有利于提高织物的吸水性能和后续处理过程,使最终得到的面料清晰飘逸,且手感柔软,穿着舒服;然后,在对织物进行丝光定型中,通过采用高碱丝光,中温定形,可以使棉纤维溶胀,无定形区变大,纤维大分子变得圆润,获得耐久性光泽,提高织物吸收染料的能力,增加成品的尺寸稳定性,降低缩水率,明显改善织物强力和外观平整度;接着,在对织物进行染色过程中,为了解决涤棉混纺纤维织物中棉涤两种纤维染色均匀性难度大的缺陷,通过用分散染料和还原染料的分散浴法进行染色,由于还原染料的后续染色过程较为苛刻,因此先将织物进行分散染料处理,为了避免分散染料对布面性能产生较大影响,不利于后续还原染料的染色处理,同时在所述分散染料处理过程中,选择相对较低的温度下对织物进行染色处理,并且为了能在低温下还能获得较高的色牢度,选择利用微胶囊化分散染料配置的染液进行上染,所述微胶囊化分散染料采用利用壳聚糖作为载体,采用化学交联剂戊二醛对壳聚糖上的氨基进行交联形成共价键,形成一种具有包囊作用的膜,制成了一种以壳聚糖为载体材料(壁材)、复配分散染料(核体)的微胶囊分散染料,该微胶囊化分散染料具有优良的缓释功能,可以对上染速度进行控制,从而具有良好的匀染效果,同时利用其隔离性能,防止分散染料对棉纤维的沾染而形成斑渍,并且在较高浓度的电解质存在时仍能保持良好的染色性能,因此有效避免了后续还原染料对分散染料染色效果的破坏,其中在分散染料处理过程工艺中,还对分散染料染色时严格控制升温速率,使分散染料上染的敏感区域升温速较慢,同时染色后进行了充分的清洗,由此获得了较好的染色效果,整个布面染色均匀度、重现性且色牢度都极好;此后在对所述织物进行还原染料处理工艺中,采用还原染料的湿短蒸轧染染色工艺,不经打底烘干,就直接将织物液封口浸渍还原液,并经汽蒸还原上染,由此不仅大大减少了打底烘干造成的色差、泳移布面发花等疵病,而且可以降低能源消耗,从而可以获得较高的色牢度;最后,在对织物进行后整理中,先对面料进行柔软整理,赋予面料良好的弹性效果以及丰满度和持久性,再进行阻燃整理,通过选用蒙脱土作为阻燃剂,同时加入季铵盐对蒙脱土进行改性,使得织物阻燃效果更好,且无环境污染。
综合上述,本发明所述的涤棉混纺纤维织物的染整工艺,无论是前处理还是后续染色,都避免了对织物纤维造成损伤,因此,不仅显著改善了织物的手感、弹性等性能,而且染色均匀,色牢度高,色泽丰满。
具体实施方式
实施例1
本实施例中,一种涤棉混纺纤维织物的染整工艺,包括如下工艺:
S1、前处理,将涤棉混纺纤维织物浸入煮漂液中,在105℃下处理30min,所述煮漂液包括:精炼剂1g/L、烧碱5g/L、双氧水6g/L、双氧水稳定剂1g/L,水洗后再浸入酶处理液中,在70℃下处理60min,所述酶处理液包括:果胶酶0.5g/L、纤维素酶3g/L、冰醋酸0.5g/L、渗透剂2g/L,热洗后烘干;
S2、丝光定型,将经S1前处理后的织物在室温下浸轧碱液,碱液浓度为180g/L,施加张力,伸幅,淋洗,110℃下汽蒸去碱,80℃水洗,加入用量为6g/L的醋酸溶液中和,轧水,烘干后进行预定型,预定型的温度为110℃,车速为30m/min;
S3、染色,将经S2丝光定型后的织物浸入分散染料形成的染液中,浴比为1:15,所述染液包括:分散染料3%(owf)、pH缓冲剂1g/L、匀染剂2g/L,30℃入染,以1℃/min的升温速率升温至90℃,保温35min,30℃温水冲洗15min,红外线预烘后,60℃下热风烘干;室温下再浸轧还原染料形成的悬浮体染液,浴比为1:20,悬浮体染液包括:还原染料0.5%(owf)、扩散剂2g/L、海藻酸钠1g/L,再在55℃下浸轧还原液,还原液包括:烧碱5g/L、保险粉10g/L、二氧化硫脲1g/L,105℃下汽蒸还原0.3min,用1.5g/L的双氧水在40℃下氧化10min,30℃温水冲洗20min,90℃下皂洗5min,再水洗烘干;所述分散染料为微胶囊化分散染料,其制备方法包括:将分散染料和壳聚糖加入到浓度为0.5wt%的醋酸溶液中搅拌均匀,加入液体石蜡和吐温-80,室温搅拌50min,再加入浓度为1.5wt%的戊二醛溶液,15℃下固化反应1.5h,离心,水洗,烘干,得到所述微胶囊化分散染料,其中所述分散染料、壳聚糖、吐温-80、戊二醛溶液的重量比为1:3:0.3:0.3;
S4、后整理,将经S3染色后的织物进行柔软整理,柔软整理中,采用的柔软处理液包括:聚醚氨基改性硅油50g/L、抗滑移剂15g/L、抗静电剂5g/L,调节pH值为6,工作温度为100℃,车速为60m/min,再进行阻燃整理,阻燃整理中,采用的阻燃整理液包括:2,3-环氧丙基三甲基氯化铵20g/L、蒙脱土5g/L、异丙醇15g/L,在70℃水浴中处理40min,浴比为1:30。
实施例2
本实施例中,一种涤棉混纺纤维织物的染整工艺,包括如下工艺:
S1、前处理,将涤棉混纺纤维织物浸入煮漂液中,在115℃下处理15min,所述煮漂液包括:精炼剂3g/L、烧碱2g/L、双氧水10g/L、双氧水稳定剂0.5g/L,水洗后再浸入酶处理液中,在80℃下处理30min,所述酶处理液包括:果胶酶1g/L、纤维素酶1g/L、冰醋酸1g/L、渗透剂1g/L,热洗后烘干;
S2、丝光定型,将经S1前处理后的织物在室温下浸轧碱液,碱液浓度为200g/L,施加张力,伸幅,淋洗,100℃下汽蒸去碱,90℃水洗,加入用量为3g/L的醋酸溶液中和,轧水,烘干后进行预定型,预定型的温度为130℃,车速为20m/min;
S3、染色,将经S2丝光定型后的织物浸入分散染料形成的染液中,浴比为1:30,所述染液包括:分散染料1%(owf)、pH缓冲剂2g/L、匀染剂1g/L,40℃入染,以0.8℃/min的升温速率升温至110℃,保温25min,40℃温水冲洗5min,红外线预烘后,90℃下热风烘干;室温下再浸轧还原染料形成的悬浮体染液,浴比为1:5,悬浮体染液包括:还原染料5%(owf)、扩散剂1g/L、海藻酸钠2g/L,再在35℃下浸轧还原液,还原液包括:烧碱25g/L、保险粉1g/L、二氧化硫脲5g/L,102℃下汽蒸还原0.5min,用1g/L的双氧水在60℃下氧化5min,40℃温水冲洗10min,98℃下皂洗1min,再水洗烘干;所述分散染料为微胶囊化分散染料,其制备方法包括:将分散染料和壳聚糖加入到浓度为3wt%的醋酸溶液中搅拌均匀,加入液体石蜡和吐温-80,室温搅拌30min,再加入浓度为5wt%的戊二醛溶液,5℃下固化反应2.5h,离心,水洗,烘干,得到所述微胶囊化分散染料,其中所述分散染料、壳聚糖、吐温-80、戊二醛溶液的重量比为1:1:0.6:0.1;
S4、后整理,将经S3染色后的织物进行柔软整理,柔软整理中,采用的柔软处理液包括:聚醚氨基改性硅油70g/L、抗滑移剂5g/L、抗静电剂10g/L,调节pH值为5.5,工作温度为120℃,车速为40m/min,再进行阻燃整理,阻燃整理中,采用的阻燃整理液包括:2,3-环氧丙基三甲基氯化铵30g/L、蒙脱土3g/L、异丙醇20g/L,在50℃水浴中处理60min,浴比为1:20。
实施例3
本实施例中,一种涤棉混纺纤维织物的染整工艺,包括如下工艺:
S1、前处理,将涤棉混纺纤维织物浸入煮漂液中,在110℃下处理20min,所述煮漂液包括:精炼剂2g/L、烧碱3g/L、双氧水8g/L、双氧水稳定剂0.7g/L,水洗后再浸入酶处理液中,在75℃下处理45min,所述酶处理液包括:果胶酶0.7g/L、纤维素酶2g/L、冰醋酸0.7g/L、渗透剂1.5g/L,热洗后烘干;
S2、丝光定型,将经S1前处理后的织物在室温下浸轧碱液,碱液浓度为190g/L,施加张力,伸幅,淋洗,105℃下汽蒸去碱,85℃水洗,加入用量为4.5g/L的醋酸溶液中和,轧水,烘干后进行预定型,预定型的温度为120℃,车速为25m/min;
S3、染色,将经S2丝光定型后的织物浸入分散染料形成的染液中,浴比为1:20,所述染液包括:分散染料2%(owf)、pH缓冲剂1.5g/L、匀染剂1.5g/L,35℃入染,以0.9℃/min的升温速率升温至100℃,保温30min,35℃温水冲洗10min,红外线预烘后,75℃下热风烘干;室温下再浸轧还原染料形成的悬浮体染液,浴比为1:12,悬浮体染液包括:还原染料2%(owf)、扩散剂1.5g/L、海藻酸钠1.5g/L,再在45℃下浸轧还原液,还原液包括:烧碱15g/L、保险粉5g/L、二氧化硫脲3g/L,103℃下汽蒸还原0.4min,用1.2g/L的双氧水在50℃下氧化7min,35℃温水冲洗15min,94℃下皂洗3min,再水洗烘干;所述分散染料为微胶囊化分散染料,其制备方法包括:将分散染料和壳聚糖加入到浓度为1.5wt%的醋酸溶液中搅拌均匀,加入液体石蜡和吐温-80,室温搅拌40min,再加入浓度为3wt%的戊二醛溶液,10℃下固化反应2h,离心,水洗,烘干,得到所述微胶囊化分散染料,其中所述分散染料、壳聚糖、吐温-80、戊二醛溶液的重量比为1:2:0.4:0.2;
S4、后整理,将经S3染色后的织物进行柔软整理,柔软整理中,采用的柔软处理液包括:聚醚氨基改性硅油60g/L、抗滑移剂10g/L、抗静电剂7g/L,调节pH值为5.5-6,工作温度为110℃,车速为50m/min,再进行阻燃整理,阻燃整理中,采用的阻燃整理液包括:2,3-环氧丙基三甲基氯化铵25g/L、蒙脱土4g/L、异丙醇17g/L,在60℃水浴中处理50min,浴比为1:25。
实施例4
本实施例中,一种涤棉混纺纤维织物的染整工艺,包括如下工艺:
S1、前处理,将涤棉混纺纤维织物浸入煮漂液中,在109℃下处理25min,所述煮漂液包括:精炼剂1.5g/L、烧碱4g/L、双氧水7g/L、双氧水稳定剂0.8g/L,水洗后再浸入酶处理液中,在78℃下处理50min,所述酶处理液包括:果胶酶0.8g/L、纤维素酶1.5g/L、冰醋酸0.8g/L、渗透剂1.6g/L,热洗后烘干;
S2、丝光定型,将经S1前处理后的织物在室温下浸轧碱液,碱液浓度为195g/L,施加张力,伸幅,淋洗,106℃下汽蒸去碱,88℃水洗,加入用量为5g/L的醋酸溶液中和,轧水,烘干后进行预定型,预定型的温度为115℃,车速为26m/min;
S3、染色,将经S2丝光定型后的织物浸入分散染料形成的染液中,浴比为1:25,所述染液包括:分散染料1.5%(owf)、pH缓冲剂1.6g/L、匀染剂1.8g/L,36℃入染,以0.9℃/min的升温速率升温至95℃,保温32min,33℃温水冲洗12min,红外线预烘后,80℃下热风烘干;室温下再浸轧还原染料形成的悬浮体染液,浴比为1:15,悬浮体染液包括:还原染料3%(owf)、扩散剂1.6g/L、海藻酸钠1.3g/L,再在50℃下浸轧还原液,还原液包括:烧碱10g/L、保险粉6g/L、二氧化硫脲2g/L,104℃下汽蒸还原0.4min,用1.3g/L的双氧水在55℃下氧化8min,36℃温水冲洗16min,95℃下皂洗2min,再水洗烘干;所述分散染料为微胶囊化分散染料,其制备方法包括:将分散染料和壳聚糖加入到浓度为2wt%的醋酸溶液中搅拌均匀,加入液体石蜡和吐温-80,室温搅拌35min,再加入浓度为2wt%的戊二醛溶液,10℃下固化反应2h,离心,水洗,烘干,得到所述微胶囊化分散染料,其中所述分散染料、壳聚糖、吐温-80、戊二醛溶液的重量比为1:1.5:0.5:0.2;
S4、后整理,将经S3染色后的织物进行柔软整理,柔软整理中,采用的柔软处理液包括:聚醚氨基改性硅油65g/L、抗滑移剂10g/L、抗静电剂8g/L,调节pH值为5.5-6,工作温度为115℃,车速为45m/min,再进行阻燃整理,阻燃整理中,采用的阻燃整理液包括:2,3-环氧丙基三甲基氯化铵24g/L、蒙脱土4g/L、异丙醇18g/L,在55℃水浴中处理45min,浴比为1:26。
本发明中的各项指标的测试方法如下:
(1)使用Hunter3Lab测色仪对染色下棉涤织物前后色差△E进行检测;
(2)色牢度
耐皂洗色牢度按照GB/T 3921-2008《纺织品色牢度试验耐皂洗色牢度》方法D(4)测定。
耐汗渍色牢度按照GB/T 3922-1995《纺织品耐汗渍色牢度试验方法》测定。
耐摩擦色牢度按照GB/T 3920-2008《织品色牢度试验耐摩擦色牢度》测定。
耐人造光色牢度按照GB/T 8426-1998《织品色牢度试验耐光色牢度:日光》氙灯方法2测定。
上述实施例1-4所述涤棉混纺纤维织物的染整工艺的测试结果如下表所示:
本发明中提出的一种涤棉混纺纤维织物的染整工艺,首先在对织物进行前处理中,由于混纺纤维织物中含有的涤纶组分结晶度高,多孔结构对碱的膨润作用较敏感,不宜在浓碱和高温下长时间蒸煮,因此在前处理中采用碱/氧煮漂液进行处理,对织物的色素、麻皮的去除效果较为明显,使得布面的光洁度、白度明显提高,并且织物整体手感较碱处理更柔软,同时考虑到涤棉混纺纤维织物的特性和需要的效果,在退浆操作中,选用酶退浆代替碱退浆进行处理,由于选用的酶处理液只对淀粉浆进行分解,经热洗后,涤纶纤维强力不受影响,并且可以对面料进行了充分润湿,有利于提高织物的吸水性能和后续处理过程,使最终得到的面料清晰飘逸,且手感柔软,穿着舒服;然后,在对织物进行丝光定型中,通过采用高碱丝光,中温定形,可以使棉纤维溶胀,无定形区变大,纤维大分子变得圆润,获得耐久性光泽,提高织物吸收染料的能力,增加成品的尺寸稳定性,降低缩水率,明显改善织物强力和外观平整度;接着,在对织物进行染色过程中,为了解决涤棉混纺纤维织物中棉涤两种纤维染色均匀性难度大的缺陷,通过用分散染料和还原染料的分散浴法进行染色,由于还原染料的后续染色过程较为苛刻,因此先将织物进行分散染料处理,为了避免分散染料对布面性能产生较大影响,不利于后续还原染料的染色处理,同时在所述分散染料处理过程中,选择相对较低的温度下对织物进行染色处理,并且为了能在低温下还能获得较高的色牢度,选择利用微胶囊化分散染料配置的染液进行上染,所述微胶囊化分散染料采用利用壳聚糖作为载体,采用化学交联剂戊二醛对壳聚糖上的氨基进行交联形成共价键,形成一种具有包囊作用的膜,制成了一种以壳聚糖为载体材料(壁材)、复配分散染料(核体)的微胶囊分散染料,该微胶囊化分散染料具有优良的缓释功能,可以对上染速度进行控制,从而具有良好的匀染效果,同时利用其隔离性能,防止分散染料对棉纤维的沾染而形成斑渍,并且在较高浓度的电解质存在时仍能保持良好的染色性能,因此有效避免了后续还原染料对分散染料染色效果的破坏,其中在分散染料处理过程工艺中,还对分散染料染色时严格控制升温速率,使分散染料上染的敏感区域升温速较慢,同时染色后进行了充分的清洗,由此获得了较好的染色效果,整个布面染色均匀度、重现性且色牢度都极好;此后在对所述织物进行还原染料处理工艺中,采用还原染料的湿短蒸轧染染色工艺,不经打底烘干,就直接将织物液封口浸渍还原液,并经汽蒸还原上染,由此不仅大大减少了打底烘干造成的色差、泳移布面发花等疵病,而且可以降低能源消耗,从而可以获得较高的色牢度;最后,在对织物进行后整理中,先对面料进行柔软整理,赋予面料良好的弹性效果以及丰满度和持久性,再进行阻燃整理,通过选用蒙脱土作为阻燃剂,同时加入季铵盐对蒙脱土进行改性,使得织物阻燃效果更好,且无环境污染。
综合上述,本发明所述的涤棉混纺纤维织物的染整工艺,无论是前处理还是后续染色,都避免了对织物纤维造成损伤,因此,不仅显著改善了织物的手感、弹性等性能,而且染色均匀,色牢度高,色泽丰满。
以上所述,仅为本发明较佳的具体实施方式,但本发明的保护范围并不局限于此,任何熟悉本技术领域的技术人员在本发明揭露的技术范围内,根据本发明的技术方案及其发明构思加以等同替换或改变,都应涵盖在本发明的保护范围之内。
Claims (5)
1.一种涤棉混纺纤维织物的染整工艺,其特征在于,包括如下步骤:
S1、前处理,将涤棉混纺纤维织物浸入煮漂液中,在105-115℃下处理15-30min,所述煮漂液包括:精炼剂1-3g/L、烧碱2-5g/L、双氧水6-10g/L、双氧水稳定剂0.5-1g/L,水洗后再浸入酶处理液中,在70-80℃下处理30-60min,所述酶处理液包括:果胶酶0.5-1g/L、纤维素酶1-3g/L、冰醋酸0.5-1g/L、渗透剂1-2g/L,热洗后烘干;
S2、丝光定型,将经S1前处理后的织物在室温下浸轧碱液,碱液浓度为180-200g/L,施加张力,伸幅,淋洗,100-110℃下汽蒸去碱,80-90℃水洗,加入用量为3-6g/L的醋酸溶液中和,轧水,烘干后进行预定型,预定型的温度为110-130℃,车速为20-30m/min;
S3、染色,将经S2丝光定型后的织物浸入微胶囊化分散染料形成的染液中,浴比为1:15-30,所述染液包括:微胶囊化分散染料1-3%(owf)、pH缓冲剂1-2g/L、匀染剂1-2g/L,30-40℃入染,以0.8-1℃/min的升温速率升温至90-110℃,保温25-35min,30-40℃温水冲洗5-15min,红外线预烘后,60-90℃下热风烘干;室温下再浸轧还原染料形成的悬浮体染液,浴比为1:5-20,悬浮体染液包括:还原染料0.5-5%(owf)、扩散剂1-2g/L、海藻酸钠1-2g/L,再在35-55℃下浸轧还原液,还原液包括:烧碱5-25g/L、保险粉1-10g/L、二氧化硫脲1-5g/L,102-105℃下汽蒸还原0.3-0.5min,用1-1.5g/L的双氧水在40-60℃下氧化5-10min,30-40℃温水冲洗10-20min,90-98℃下皂洗1-5min,再水洗烘干;
S4、后整理,将经S3染色后的织物依次进行柔软、阻燃整理;
S3中,微胶囊化分散染料制备方法包括:将分散染料和壳聚糖加入到浓度为0.5-3wt%的醋酸溶液中搅拌均匀,加入液体石蜡和吐温-80,室温搅拌30-50min,再加入浓度为1.5-5wt%的戊二醛溶液,5-15℃下固化反应1.5-2.5h,离心,水洗,烘干,得到所述微胶囊化分散染料;所述分散染料、壳聚糖、吐温-80、戊二醛溶液的重量比为1:1-3:0.3-0.6:0.1-0.3。
2.根据权利要求1所述的涤棉混纺纤维织物的染整工艺,其特征在于,S3中,所述还原染料为蒽醌、苯并蒽醌、吖啶稠环系列、苯醌衍生物或苯系衍生物结构的还原染料。
3.根据权利要求1或2所述的涤棉混纺纤维织物的染整工艺,其特征在于,S4中,柔软整理采用的柔软处理液包括:聚醚氨基改性硅油50-70g/L、抗滑移剂5-15g/L、抗静电剂5-10g/L,柔软整理中,调节pH值为5.5-6,工作温度为100-120℃,车速为40-60m/min。
4.根据权利要求1或2所述的涤棉混纺纤维织物的染整工艺,其特征在于,S4中,阻燃整理采用的阻燃整理液包括:2,3-环氧丙基三甲基氯化铵20-30g/L、蒙脱土3-5g/L、异丙醇15-20g/L,阻燃整理中,在50-70℃水浴中处理40-60min,浴比为1:20-30。
5.根据权利要求1或2所述的涤棉混纺纤维织物的染整工艺,其特征在于,所述后整理后还包括预缩,整纬;预缩时,将织物置于预缩整理机内进行预缩处理,预缩整理机的车速为30-70m/min,预缩率为8-14%;整纬时,车速为90-120m/min,通过光电方式来检测纬纱纬移状态,通过电脑计算传给自动纬纱整理器对面料纬纱给予纬纱整理,然后进行矫正和显示,控制所述织物的纬斜≤2%。
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