CN104644511A - Sunscreen cosmetic composition and method for preparing seaweed sunscreen components of composition - Google Patents
Sunscreen cosmetic composition and method for preparing seaweed sunscreen components of composition Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
The invention discloses a sunscreen cosmetic composition and a method for preparing seaweed sunscreen components of the composition. The sunscreen cosmetic composition comprises the following components in percentage by weight based on the total weight of the composition: 0.01-10 percent of a porphyra umbilicalis extract, preferably 5 percent, 0.01-10 percent of a dunaliella salina extract, preferably 5 percent, 0.0001-1 percent of a haematococcus pluvialis extract, preferably 0.001 percent, 0.01-10 percent of seawater pearl powder, preferably 1 percent, and 0.01-10 percent of codium tomentosum extract, preferably 10 percent. According to the composition disclosed by the invention, the irritation and allergic reactions of organic sun-screening agents brought to the human body can be effectively reduced, the injured skin can be repaired during sun protection, and water is replenished to the skin. According to the preparation method disclosed by the invention, a wetting agent propylene glycol for cosmetics serves as an extraction solvent, the porphyra umbilicalis extract, dunaliella salina extract and haematococcus pluvialis extract are obtained under specific preparation conditions, and hazards of organic solvents for conventional extraction are avoided.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to the preparation method of cosmetic composition and Sargassum sun-prevention component thereof.The invention belongs to personal care field, the preparation method especially with the algae component of remarkable anti-sunlight function and the application be combined in sun care preparations thereof.
Background technology
Ultraviolet is the main research focus of present stage photoaging.Ultraviolet is divided into three wave bands UVA, UVB, UVC.Wherein UVC is almost absorbed completely by ozone layer, can not reach earth surface.The ultraviolet of UVB to be wavelength be 280-320nm, UVB major part is absorbed by epiderm skin, can not cause the change of horn cell DNA, but because of its energy higher, strong photic damage can be produced to skin, even cause skin carcinoma.The size of usual employing SPF (sun protection factor) SPF (Sun Protection Factor) value evaluates the defensive ability/resistance ability of sun care preparations to UVB.The ultraviolet of UVA to be wavelength be 320-400nm, has very strong penetration power, can arrive dermal layer of the skin, destroy skin collagen and elastin laminin, cause the generation of wrinkle, its damage is cumulative, be photoaging main inducing, stimulation melanin generates simultaneously, causes the colour of skin uneven.Usual SPF (sun protection factor) PA (Protection UVA) evaluates the defensive ability/resistance ability of sun care preparations to UVA.
Skin, by after ultraviolet radiation damage, becomes dry coarse immediately, follows the string and gloss.Therefore, sun-proof and be that skin keeps the skin wet while repairing also be vital.
Modern sun-proof technology is under the prerequisite ensureing sun-proof result, make every effort to find the skin care ingredient Synergistic of some gentlenesses to improve sun-proof result, thus reduce sunscreen consumption, the zest that reduction sunscreen may bring and security risks, develop more gentle effective high-tech sun care preparations.Oceanic shellfish active peptide, marine collagen protein peptide, Sargassum polysaccharides and sunscreen combine by patent documentation CN102302417A, while minimizing sunscreen consumption, improve its sun-proof ability and Product Safety.Patent documentation CN101161231A provides a kind of sunscreen cream safely and efficiently containing Rhizophora apiculata Blume extract, oyster shell powder.But, prior art had not been reported and has been adopted the composite of algae component, sea water pearls powder and sunscreen to make for improving SPF (sun protection factor), and increase Haematocoocus Pluvialls extract and Codium Tomentosum extract, repair injured skin sun-proof simultaneously, deep moisturizing lock water, the water realizing " outer (layer) is sun-proof, interior (layer) moisturizing " moistens sun-proof Creative Science and Technology Co. Ltd, does not also provide the improvement to Sargassum extract preparation technology.
Summary of the invention
the problem that invention will solve
The object of the invention is to use gentle Sargassum skin care ingredient Synergistic to improve sun-proof result, thus reduce sunscreen consumption, the zest that reduction sunscreen may bring and security risks, develop more gentle effective high-tech sun care preparations.
Scientific research personnel of the present invention is through studying discovery for a long period of time, the composite of umbilicus shape Thallus Porphyrae extract, Dunaliella salina extract and sea water pearls powder can improve sun-proof result by Synergistic, the consumption of common sunscreen agent obviously can be reduced when reaching identical SPF (sun protection factor), thus effectively reduce the stimulation and anaphylaxis that sunscreen may bring to part human body, and add the material such as Haematocoocus Pluvialls extract and Codium Tomentosum extract further, repair injured skin sun-proof simultaneously, for replenish water for skin, prevent skin sunburn, water moistens to allow skin remain.
The present invention uses Moisturizing Agent Used in Cosmetic propylene glycol as Extraction solvent innovatively, and under specific preparation condition, obtain umbilicus shape Thallus Porphyrae extract, Dunaliella salina extract and Haematocoocus Pluvialls extract, avoid the harm that traditional extraction organic solvent used may bring, guarantee safety and the effectiveness of extract.
The object of the present invention is to provide a kind of cosmetic composition, effectively can reduce the consumption of sunscreen, reduce the stimulation and anaphylaxis that bring to part human body, repair injured skin sun-proof simultaneously, is replenish water for skin.And purposes said composition is applied in sun care preparations.
Another object of the present invention is to provide three kinds of Sargassum sun-prevention components, the i.e. preparation method of umbilicus shape Thallus Porphyrae extract, Dunaliella salina extract and Haematocoocus Pluvialls extract, use Moisturizing Agent Used in Cosmetic propylene glycol as Extraction solvent, avoid the harm that traditional extraction organic solvent used may bring, guarantee safety and the effectiveness of extract.
for the scheme of dealing with problems
Cosmetic composition of the present invention, relative to the gross weight of described cosmetic composition, comprises the component of following percentage by weight: umbilicus shape Thallus Porphyrae extract 0.01-10%, and most preferably 5%; Dunaliella salina extract 0.01-10%, most preferably 5%; Haematocoocus Pluvialls extract 0.0001-1%, most preferably 0.001%; Sea water pearls powder 0.01-10%, most preferably 1%; Codium Tomentosum extract 0.01-10%, most preferably 10%.
Described compositions also containing high stability organic uv absorbers, comprises one or more in the own ester of diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl benzoylbenzoic acid, Uvinul T 150, ethylhexyl methoxy cinnamate, BEMT.The percentage by weight of described high stability organic uv absorbers relative to the gross weight of described cosmetic composition is: the own ester 0.1-10% of diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl benzoylbenzoic acid, Uvinul T 150 0.1-5%, ethylhexyl methoxy cinnamate 0.1-10%, BEMT 0.1-10%.
Described compositions is also containing inorganic UV barrier, described inorganic UV barrier comprises zinc oxide, one or both in titanium dioxide, the percentage by weight of described inorganic UV barrier, be zinc oxide 0.05-20% relative to described cosmetic composition gross weight, titanium dioxide 0.05-20%.
Described compositions also containing moisturizing ingredient, comprises one or more in Sargassum extract, hyaluronate sodium, Aloe extract, Lubrajel Oil, polyethylene/polypropylene glycol-14/7 dimethyl ether, xylitol.
Described compositions also repairs composition containing damaged skin, comprises one or more in vitamin E, ceramide, glucosan, vitamin B5.
The preparation method of umbilicus shape Thallus Porphyrae extract, comprise after umbilicus shape Thallus Porphyrae Sargassum is ground, get and put into steeping tank in right amount and add a certain proportion of aqueous solution of propylene glycol, the solid-liquid ratio of described Sargassum and aqueous solution of propylene glycol is 1:5-1:60, in aqueous solution of propylene glycol, water and propylene glycol mass ratio are 2 ~ 1:1 ~ 4, stir and soak 8-24 hour, then treatment fluid is proceeded in extractor and carry out microwave extracting, extraction time is 5-40 minute, Extracting temperature is 25-125 DEG C, microwave power is 300-1500W, filters extract and obtain umbilicus shape Thallus Porphyrae extract.
The preparation method of Dunaliella salina extract, comprise and utilize ultrasound wave to carry out broken wall treatment to Dunaliella salina, breaking cellular wall Sargassum liquid carries out supercritical carbon dioxide extraction after vacuum drying, extraction kettle supercritical carbon dioxide temperature is 20-50 DEG C, pressure is 10-40MPa, and carbon dioxide flow is 5-20kg/h, and extraction time is 2-8h, resolution temperature is 20-35 DEG C, namely obtains Dunaliella salina extract after extraction terminates.
The preparation method of Haematocoocus Pluvialls extract, comprise and adopt aqueous solution of propylene glycol as solvent, homogenizing broken wall treatment is carried out to Haematocoocus Pluvialls, then treatment fluid is carried out ultrasonic extraction, solid-liquid ratio 1:5 ~ 60 of described Haematocoocus Pluvialls and solvent, in aqueous solution of propylene glycol, water and propylene glycol mass ratio are 2 ~ 1:1 ~ 4, ultrasonic temperature 20-40 DEG C, time 3-15min, power 500-900W, supernatant is got after crude extract frozen centrifugation, cosmetics-stage ethanol is added after reply room temperature, stable standing 2-10 hour, centrifugal, namely supernatant vacuum drying removing ethanol obtain extract.
Cosmetic composition of the present invention is used for the purposes in sun care preparations, and described sun care preparations comprises sunscreen, sunlight lotion, sunscreen cream, suntan lotion, sunscreen spray, sun-proof gel, sun screen, isolation breast, isolation dew, BB frost, shampoo, hair conditioner, cosmetic water.
beneficial effect of the present invention
Compared with prior art, the present invention makes to apply some make up conventional moisturizing ingredient as Extraction solvent in the preparation process of Sargassum sun-prevention component, and make extract safe and effective, skin affinity is better.Natural seaweed sun-prevention component and sun-proof obstruct factor sea water pearls powder are re-dubbed compositions by the present invention innovatively simultaneously, the sun care preparations prepared by said composition has multiple sun-proof result, add Sargassum Moisture factor Codium Tomentosum extract to reach skin moisturizing, prevent from shining rear skin water loss, the water realizing " outer sun-proof, interior moisturizing " moistens sun-proof science and technology simultaneously.
Detailed description of the invention
Below further describe the present invention.
Cosmetic composition of the present invention mainly through mixing oil phase and aqueous phase, and adds other compositions and obtains.
Oil phase is formed primarily of having emulsifying agent, coemulsifier, emollient, sunscreen, but also can as required containing other composition.
As emulsifying agent, as long as the emulsifying agent of Water-In-Oil (W/O) type, oil-in-water (O/W) type emulsifying cosmetic composition can be formed, just be not particularly limited, such as, can use cetearyl alcohol, cetearyl glucoside, polysorbate-60, Phosphoric acid monohexadecyl ester potassium, cetyl polyethylene/polypropylene glycol-10/1 polydimethylsiloxane, lauryl polyethylene/polypropylene glycol-18/18-dimethyl siloxane, Polyethylene Glycol-10 polydimethylsiloxane, polyglycereol-3 diisopstearate etc.
As coemulsifier, such as, can use glyceryl stearate, PEG-60 castor oil hydrogenated, hydrolecithin etc.
As emollient, normally used emollient in cosmetic field can be used in, be not particularly limited.Specifically, C12-15 alcohol benzoate, polydimethylsiloxane, caprylyl methicone, Dermol DIPS, Fancol ID, ring five polydimethylsiloxane, C16-18 alkanol, phenyl trimethicone polysiloxanes etc. can be used.
As sunscreen, normally used organic uv absorbers and inorganic UV barrier in cosmetic field can be used in, be not particularly limited.Specifically, the own ester of organic uv absorbers diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl benzoylbenzoic acid, ethylhexyl methoxy cinnamate, OXYBENZONE, Uvinul T 150, BEMT, PAROSOL 1789, ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-methyl benzylidene camphor, octocrilene etc. can be used.Inorganic UV barrier titanium dioxide and zinc oxide can be used.
Aqueous phase comprises wetting agent, thickening agent, pH adjusting agent, also can as required containing other composition.
As wetting agent, as long as the wetting agent that cosmetic field is conventional just has no particular limits, include, for example out glycerol, propylene glycol, Sargassum extract, hyaluronate sodium, Aloe extract, Lubrajel Oil, polyethylene/polypropylene glycol-14/7 dimethyl ether, xylitol, sorbitol etc.
As thickening agent, acrylic acid (ester) class/C10-30 alkylol acrylamide acid esters cross linked polymer, carbomer, xanthan gum, distearyl dimethyl amine hectorite etc. can be listed.
As pH adjusting agent, arginine, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, triethanolamine, aminomethyl propanol etc. can be listed.
One or more having in the vitamin E of damaged skin repair, ceramide, glucosan, vitamin B5 also can be added in cosmetic composition.
The combination of three kinds of Sargassum sun-prevention component umbilicus shape Thallus Porphyrae extracts, Dunaliella salina extract, Haematocoocus Pluvialls extract and sea water pearls powder, Codium Tomentosum extract is used for cosmetic composition by the present invention.Wherein said extract is safe and effective, and skin affinity is better.In addition, by combinations thereof of the present invention, the present invention repairs after solving the sun-proof and anti-light aging of sun care preparations mildness, wide spectrum, solarization simultaneously, skin moisturizing, prevent from shining the series of problems such as rear skin water loss, for Sargassum opens a new method at the applied research in sun care preparations field.The present invention significantly can reduce traditional sunscreen consumption after using the compositions containing Sargassum sun-prevention component, reaches gentle efficient sun-proof result, and repairs and moisturizing effect after taking into account solarization, remain that skin health water moistens.
As the umbilicus shape Porphyra marine red alga of one of natural sun-prevention algae component, its extract contains active substance-class mycetocyte element aminoacid (MAAs) compound that can absorb UVA, and the energy absorbed discharges with form of heat, do not form oxidation reaction product, having anti-oxidation function, is natural safe biological sun-prevention component.
Based on cosmetic composition, the addition of umbilicus shape Thallus Porphyrae extract is 0.01-10%.Addition as areola shape Thallus Porphyrae extract is less than 0.01%, does not obviously promote the SPF (sun protection factor) PA of UVA; Addition as areola shape Thallus Porphyrae extract is greater than 10%, and the sun-proof result of compositions is better, but high cost, do not utilize enforcement.The addition of umbilicus shape Thallus Porphyrae extract most preferably 5%, sun-proof result and cost performance best.
Umbilicus shape Thallus Porphyrae extract is prepared by the method comprised the following steps: after being ground by umbilicus shape Thallus Porphyrae Sargassum, get the Sargassum processed in right amount put into steeping tank and add a certain proportion of aqueous solution of propylene glycol, the solid-liquid ratio of Sargassum and aqueous solution of propylene glycol is 1:5-1:60, in aqueous solution of propylene glycol, water and propylene glycol mass ratio are 2:1 ~ 1:4, stir and soak 8-24 hour, then treatment fluid is proceeded in extractor and carry out microwave extracting, extraction process takes temperature programming, extraction time is 5-40 minute, Extracting temperature is 25-125 DEG C, microwave power is 300-1500W, namely extract is obtained umbilicus shape Thallus Porphyrae extract by membrane filtration.Described extract dispersibles in cosmetics-stage glycerol, propylene glycol or butanediol for subsequent use after Rotary Evaporators is concentrated, can add appropriate cosmetics Common Preservatives as phenoxyethanol, Sensiva SC50, caprylyl glycol etc.
Preferred preparation condition is after umbilicus shape Thallus Porphyrae Sargassum grinds 30 minutes, get the Sargassum processed in right amount put into 100 liters of steeping tanks and add aqueous solution of propylene glycol, wherein the solid-liquid ratio of Sargassum and aqueous solution of propylene glycol is 1:20, in aqueous solution of propylene glycol, water and propylene glycol mass ratio are 1:2, low rate mixing soaks 24 hours, extraction time is 10min, and Extracting temperature is 100 DEG C, and microwave power is 300W.The umbilicus shape Thallus Porphyrae extract sun-proof result prepared by this optimum condition is best, and after test formulations adds 10% umbilicus shape Thallus Porphyrae extract, PA value brings up to 10.5 from 5.6.
Dunaliella salina as one of natural sun-prevention algae component is a kind of green microalgae addicted to salt, the phytofluene that its extract contains and phytoene have unique absorption characteristic ultraviolet, there is very strong uv absorption at UVB wave band, effectively can reduce the damage that UVB causes.
Based on cosmetic composition, the addition of Dunaliella salina extract is 0.01-10%.If the addition of Dunaliella salina extract is less than 0.01%, the SPF (sun protection factor) SPF of UVB is not obviously promoted; If the addition of Dunaliella salina extract is greater than 10%, the sun-proof result of compositions is better, but high cost, do not utilize enforcement.The addition of Dunaliella salina extract most preferably 5%, sun-proof result and cost performance best.
Dunaliella salina extract is prepared by the preparation method comprised the following steps: utilize ultrasound wave to carry out broken wall treatment to the Dunaliella salina cleaned up, supercritical carbon dioxide extraction is carried out by after breaking cellular wall Sargassum liquid vacuum drying, extraction kettle supercritical carbon dioxide temperature is 20-50 DEG C, pressure 10-40MPa, carbon dioxide flow 5-20kg/h, extraction time 2-8h, resolves pressure 0.8-2MPa, temperature 20-35 DEG C.From separator, take out extract after extraction terminates, extract dispersibles in the emollient such as cosmetics-stage Jojoba oil, hydrogenated polydecene or squalane for subsequent use.
Preferred preparation condition is breaking cellular wall Dunaliella salina liquid, after 45 DEG C of vacuum drying 24h, carry out supercritical carbon dioxide extraction, and extraction kettle supercritical carbon dioxide temperature is 40 DEG C, pressure 20MPa, carbon dioxide flow 20kg/h, extraction time 6h, resolve pressure 2MPa, temperature 20 DEG C.The Dunaliella salina extract sun-proof result prepared by this optimum condition is best, and after test formulations adds 10% Dunaliella salina extract, spf value brings up to 25.8 from 15.2, improves 69.74%.
The Haematocoocus Pluvialls repairing composition as natural sun-prevention is a kind of green microalgae; its active component astaxanthin HaCaT cell (Human keratinocytes) oxidativestress damage radiation-induced to long wave ultraviolet UVA has protective effect; effectively can stop skin photoage; protect and stimulate skin self-regeneration, reducing ultraviolet to the injury of skin.
Based on cosmetic composition, the addition of Haematocoocus Pluvialls extract is 0.0001-1%.If the addition of Haematocoocus Pluvialls extract is less than 0.0001%, not obvious to the repair of damaged skin; If the addition of Haematocoocus Pluvialls extract is greater than 1%, causes material body color comparatively dark, affect outward appearance.The addition of Haematocoocus Pluvialls extract most preferably 0.001%, to the repairing effect of damaged skin and prepared cosmetic appearance best.
Haematocoocus Pluvialls extract (astaxanthin) is prepared by the preparation method comprised the following steps: adopt aqueous solution of propylene glycol as solvent, homogenizing broken wall treatment is carried out to Haematocoocus Pluvialls, homogenizing speed 3000-12000rpm, time 1-20min, then treatment fluid is carried out ultrasonic extraction, solid-liquid ratio 1:5 ~ 60 of extraction, in aqueous solution of propylene glycol, water and propylene glycol mass ratio are 2 ~ 1:1 ~ 4, ultrasonic temperature 20-40 DEG C, time 3-15min, power 500-900W, supernatant is got by after crude extract frozen centrifugation, cosmetics-stage ethanol is added after reply room temperature, stable standing 2-10 hour, centrifugal, namely supernatant vacuum drying removing ethanol is obtained extract.Extract dispersibles in heronsbill seed oil used for cosmetic, white Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil or Jojoba wet goods emollient for subsequent use.
Preferred preparation condition is the solid-liquid ratio 1:10 of Haematocoocus Pluvialls and solvent, in aqueous solution of propylene glycol, water and propylene glycol mass ratio are 1:2, ultrasonic temperature 35 DEG C, time 15min, power 500W, after crude extract frozen centrifugation, gets supernatant, after reply room temperature, add cosmetics-stage ethanol stable leave standstill 4 hours, after centrifugal, namely supernatant vacuum drying removing ethanol is obtained extract.Haematocoocus Pluvialls extract (astaxanthin) content prepared by this optimum condition is the highest.
Sun-proof Margarita powder as one of natural sun-prevention algae component can by reflection and scatters ultraviolet, effectively isolation UVA and UVB.Present composition Margarita powder used is derived from sea water pearls, obtains through alkaline protease enzymolysis, preparation method safety, and gained Margarita powder has no side effect to skin.
Based on cosmetic composition, the addition of sea water pearls powder is 0.01-10%.If the addition of sea water pearls powder is less than 0.01%, shielding ultraviolet rays DeGrain; If the addition of sea water pearls powder is greater than 10%, Margarita powder is difficult to dissolve completely, the use sense of the prepared cosmetics of impact.The addition of sea water pearls powder most preferably 1%, on ultraviolet shielding action and best on use sense impact.
As the Codium Tomentosum extract of natural moisture preserving composition as Sargassum Moisture factor, the sulfonation heteropolysaccharide containing anion can be combined with protein and mineral, regulates osmotic pressure, reaches the even moisturizing of deep layer.In conjunction with trehalose, hyaluronate sodium and Aloe quintessence, the efficient replenishing water and preserving moisture of deep layer, water loss after preventing skin to shine.
Based on cosmetic composition, the addition of Codium Tomentosum extract is 0.01-10%.If the addition of Codium Tomentosum extract is less than 0.01%, not obvious to the moistening effect of skin; If the addition of Codium Tomentosum extract is greater than 10%, the moistening effect of compositions is better, but high cost, do not utilize enforcement.The addition of Codium Tomentosum extract most preferably 10%, moistening effect and cost performance best.
Solution of the present invention is triple sun-proof mechanism:
Umbilicus shape Thallus Porphyrae extract can absorb UVA band ultraviolet; Dunaliella salina extract can absorb UVB band ultraviolet, and form wide spectrum sun-proof, the anti-solarization elite of Sargassum can inspire UV stress protective function automatically; resist the damage of ultraviolet ground floor, this is that the first weight is sun-proof.
Sea water pearls powder from ocean passes through reflection and scatters ultraviolet, isolation UVA and UVB, and initiation second is heavy sun-proof;
The oxidation resistance of astaxanthin (Haematocoocus Pluvialls extract) is more than 500 times of vitamin E, effectively repairs remaining ultraviolet to the damage of skin, opposing photoaging, thus reaches the triple sun-proof; Triple sun-proof while add Sargassum Moisture factor (Codium Tomentosum extract) deep moisturizing lock water constituent especially, really accomplish that the water of " outer (layer) sun-proof, interior (layer) moisturizing " moistens sun-proof Creative Science and Technology Co. Ltd.
The own ester of organic uv absorbers of the present invention preferred diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl benzoylbenzoic acid, Uvinul T 150, ethylhexyl methoxy cinnamate and BEMT.The wherein ultraviolet of ethylhexyl methoxy cinnamate and Uvinul T 150 dominant absorption UVB wave band, red in order to prevent skin to shine; The ultraviolet of Uvinul A Plus dominant absorption UVA wave band, in order to prevent tanned and induced skin cancer; BEMT is the most effective broad spectrum UV absorbers, and especially absorbing in very weak 330-350nm region in other three kinds of UV absorbent has larger absorption, in order to make up the deficiency of other three kinds of sunscreen.In four kinds of sunscreen, ethylhexyl methoxy cinnamate is the fine solvent of other three kinds of sunscreen, and they have the effect of Synergistic each other, can obtain the sun-proof result of more stability and high efficiency.
The consumption of the preferred organic uv absorbers of the present invention is preferably the own ester 0.1-10% of diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl benzoylbenzoic acid relative to cosmetic composition gross weight, Uvinul T 150 0.1-5%, ethylhexyl methoxy cinnamate 0.1-10%, BEMT 0.1-10%.
The present invention comprises inorganic UV barrier further, preferential oxidation zinc and titanium dioxide, and zinc oxide mainly intercepts UVA, and titanium dioxide mainly intercepts UVB.
The consumption of inorganic UV barrier is preferably zinc oxide 0.05-20% relative to cosmetic composition gross weight, titanium dioxide 0.05-20%.
embodiment
One, the selection of preparation condition
(1) preparation of Sunscreen Base Formula
Table 1. Sunscreen Base Formula
Preparation technology: 1) oil phase is mixed and heated to 75-85 DEG C, till dissolving completely; 2) aqueous phase is mixed and heated to 75-85 DEG C, till dissolving completely; 3) oil phase is added aqueous phase, 2000r/min homogenizing 10 minutes.Then cool while stirring; 4) be cooled to 40 DEG C, add other raw materials, stir and be cooled to less than 30 DEG C, terminate.The SPF=15.2 of the sunscreen composition obtained, PA=5.6.
(2) preparation of umbilicus shape Thallus Porphyrae extract and sun-proof result thereof
According to the umbilicus shape Thallus Porphyrae extract that preparation condition different shown in table 2 obtains, add together with content with 10% other raw materials in the basic components of (one) part, investigate the sun-proof result that with the addition of the umbilicus shape Thallus Porphyrae extract that different preparation condition obtains, its result is as shown in table 2:
The sun-proof result of the umbilicus shape Thallus Porphyrae extract that the different preparation condition of table 2. obtains
As shown in Table 2, according to the umbilicus shape Thallus Porphyrae extract that the above-mentioned different preparation condition of the present invention obtains, addition with 10% adds in the Sunscreen Base Formula of table 1, SPF, PA value all has raising in various degree, and the sun-proof result of product that preparation condition wherein shown in embodiment 13 obtains is best, namely spf value is brought up to 17.6, PA value from 15.2 and is brought up to 10.5 from 5.6, is the preferred preparation condition of the present invention.And the umbilicus shape Thallus Porphyrae extract not adopting preparation condition of the present invention to obtain, sun-proof result is poor.
(3) preparation of Dunaliella salina extract and sun-proof result thereof
According to the Dunaliella salina extract that preparation condition different shown in table 3 obtains, add together with content with 10% other raw materials in the basic components of (one) part, investigate the sun-proof result that with the addition of the Dunaliella salina extract that different preparation condition obtains, its result is as shown in table 3:
The sun-proof result of the Dunaliella salina extract that the different preparation condition of table 3. obtains
As shown in Table 3, according to the Dunaliella salina extract that the above-mentioned different preparation condition of the present invention obtains, addition with 10% adds in the Sunscreen Base Formula of table 1, SPF, PA value all has raising in various degree, and the sun-proof result of product that preparation condition wherein shown in embodiment 35 obtains is best, namely spf value is brought up to 25.8, PA value from 15.2 and is brought up to 7.4 from 5.6, is the preferred preparation condition of the present invention.And the Dunaliella salina extract not adopting preparation condition of the present invention to obtain, sun-proof result is poor.
(4) Haematocoocus Pluvialls extract (astaxanthin) prepare extraction effect
The content of the Haematocoocus Pluvialls extract (astaxanthin) that the different preparation condition of table 4. obtains
As shown in Table 4, the Haematocoocus Pluvialls extract (astaxanthin) prepared according to the different preparation condition of the present invention all can obtain higher content astaxanthin.And wherein Haematocoocus Pluvialls extract (astaxanthin) content prepared of the preparation condition shown in embodiment 49 is the highest, being 0.92mg/g, is the preferred preparation condition of the present invention.And Haematocoocus Pluvialls extract (astaxanthin) content not adopting preparation condition of the present invention to obtain is low.
(5) with the addition of the sun-proof result after natural sun-prevention component
Prepare umbilicus shape Thallus Porphyrae extract according to above-mentioned preferred embodiment 13, prepare Dunaliella salina extract according to above-mentioned preferred embodiment 35, prepare Haematocoocus Pluvialls extract (astaxanthin) according to above-mentioned preferred embodiment 49.And the Sargassum sun-prevention component prepared is added together with other raw materials in the basic components of (one) part of the different ratio shown in table 6, investigate Sargassum sun-prevention component to the impact of sun-proof result, its result is as shown in table 6:
The sun-proof result of the different sunscreen composition of table 5. compares
As shown in Table 5, meet the sunscreen composition of instant component proportioning, all can obtain good sun-proof result, the proportioning of these compositionss all belongs to the preferred scope of the present invention.Wherein sun-proof result optimum is compositions 22.Consider that Haematocoocus Pluvialls extract (astaxanthin) is natural pigment, considerable influence is had to the outward appearance of prepared cosmetics, therefore, for stricter visual appearance, preferred composition 16, its proportioning is umbilicus shape Thallus Porphyrae extract 5%, Dunaliella salina extract 5% and Haematocoocus Pluvialls extract (astaxanthin) 0.001%, Codium Tomentosum extract 10%, sea water pearls powder 1%, adds this composition to basic components SPF=15.2; In PA=5.6, formula SPF brings up to 26.2; PA brings up to 10.6.
Inventor also compares research further and finds, when on the formula basis of compositions 16, further increase umbilicus shape Thallus Porphyrae extract, the content to 11% of Dunaliella salina extract (namely total consumption of natural sun-screening agents in compositions 16, is shown in comparative composition 1 and 2), result shows, although SPF (sun protection factor) is improved, but increasing more by a small margin relative to SPF (sun protection factor), the significantly raising of production cost is that the present invention is not preferred.Same, increase the content to 11% (comparative composition 3) of sea water pearls powder further, although SPF (sun protection factor) is improved, Margarita powder is difficult to dissolve completely, and therefore the use sense of the prepared cosmetics of impact, is also that the present invention is not preferred.
(6) natural sun-prevention component is on the impact of Orangic sunscreen consumption
In Sunscreen Base Formula, adding the preferred addition of the certified algae component of above-mentioned experiment, investigating when reaching identical SPF (sun protection factor), the consumption that Orangic sunscreen reduces.Its result is as shown in table 6:
Table 6. compares the consumption that when reaching identical SPF (sun protection factor), Orangic sunscreen reduces
| Sunscreen Base Formula | Formula of the present invention | |
| Ethylhexyl methoxy cinnamate | 5％ | 1.2％ |
| Uvinul T 150 | 1％ | 0.5％ |
| BEMT | 1.5％ | 0.4％ |
| Uvinul A Plus | 1％ | 0.05％ |
| Umbilicus shape Thallus Porphyrae extract | -- | 5％ |
| Dunaliella salina extract | -- | 5％ |
| Sea water pearls powder | -- | 1％ |
| Experimental result | SPF＝15.2，PA＝5.6 | SPF＝15.2，PA＝5.6 |
As shown in Table 6, when reaching identical SPF (sun protection factor), adding the formula of the present invention of Sargassum sun-prevention component, obviously can reduce the consumption of Orangic sunscreen, thus reduce the stimulation and anaphylaxis that Orangic sunscreen brings to human body.
industry utilizes probability
The preparation method of umbilicus shape Thallus Porphyrae extract of the present invention, Dunaliella salina extract and Haematocoocus Pluvialls extract (astaxanthin) adopts non-organic solvent to extract, and guarantees safety and the effectiveness of extract.Natural seaweed sun-prevention component and chemical sun are re-dubbed compositions, the stimulation that effective reduction Orangic sunscreen brings to part human body and anaphylaxis, and add the material such as Haematocoocus Pluvialls extract and Codium Tomentosum extract further, repair injured skin sun-proof simultaneously, for replenish water for skin, prevent skin sunburn, water moistens to allow skin remain, extensively can utilize in cosmetic field.
Claims (10)
1. a cosmetic composition, is characterized in that, relative to the gross weight of described cosmetic composition, comprises the component of following percentage by weight: umbilicus shape Thallus Porphyrae extract 0.01-10%, most preferably 5%; Dunaliella salina extract 0.01-10%, most preferably 5%; Haematocoocus Pluvialls extract 0.0001-1%, most preferably 0.001%; Sea water pearls powder 0.01-10%, most preferably 1%; Codium Tomentosum extract 0.01-10%, most preferably 10%.
2. compositions according to claim 1, it is characterized in that, described compositions is also containing high stability organic uv absorbers, and described high stability organic uv absorbers comprises one or more in the own ester of diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl benzoylbenzoic acid, Uvinul T 150, ethylhexyl methoxy cinnamate, BEMT.
3. compositions according to claim 2, it is characterized in that, relative to the gross weight of described cosmetic composition, described high stability organic uv absorbers forms containing, for example the material of lower percentage by weight: the own ester 0.1-10% of diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl benzoylbenzoic acid, Uvinul T 150 0.1-5%, ethylhexyl methoxy cinnamate 0.1-10%, BEMT 0.1-10%.
4. the compositions according to any one of claim 1-3, it is characterized in that, described compositions is also containing inorganic UV barrier, described inorganic UV barrier comprises zinc oxide, one or both in titanium dioxide, the percentage by weight of described inorganic UV barrier is zinc oxide 0.05-20% relative to described cosmetic composition gross weight, titanium dioxide 0.05-20%.
5. compositions according to claim 1, it is characterized in that: described compositions is also containing moisturizing ingredient, and described moisturizing ingredient comprises one or more in Sargassum extract, hyaluronate sodium, Aloe extract, Lubrajel Oil, polyethylene/polypropylene glycol-14/7 dimethyl ether, xylitol.
6. compositions according to claim 1, is characterized in that: described compositions also repairs composition containing damaged skin, and described damaged skin reparation composition comprises one or more in vitamin E, ceramide, glucosan, vitamin B5.
7. the preparation method of umbilicus shape Thallus Porphyrae extract, it is characterized in that, comprise after umbilicus shape Thallus Porphyrae Sargassum is ground, get and put into steeping tank in right amount and add a certain proportion of aqueous solution of propylene glycol, the solid-liquid ratio of described Sargassum and aqueous solution of propylene glycol is 1:5-1:60, in aqueous solution of propylene glycol, water and propylene glycol mass ratio are 2 ~ 1:1 ~ 4, stir and soak 8-24 hour, then treatment fluid is proceeded in extractor and carry out microwave extracting, extraction time is 5-40 minute, Extracting temperature is 25-125 DEG C, and microwave power is 300-1500W, filters extract and obtain umbilicus shape Thallus Porphyrae extract.
8. the preparation method of Dunaliella salina extract, it is characterized in that, comprise and utilize ultrasound wave to carry out broken wall treatment to Dunaliella salina, breaking cellular wall Sargassum liquid carries out supercritical carbon dioxide extraction after vacuum drying, and extraction kettle supercritical carbon dioxide temperature is 20-50 DEG C, and pressure is 10-40MPa, carbon dioxide flow is 5-20kg/h, extraction time is 2-8h, and resolution temperature is 20-35 DEG C, namely obtains Dunaliella salina extract after extraction terminates.
9. the preparation method of Haematocoocus Pluvialls extract, it is characterized in that, comprise and adopt aqueous solution of propylene glycol as solvent, homogenizing broken wall treatment is carried out to Haematocoocus Pluvialls, then treatment fluid is carried out ultrasonic extraction, solid-liquid ratio 1:5 ~ 60 of described Haematocoocus Pluvialls and aqueous solution of propylene glycol, in aqueous solution of propylene glycol, water and propylene glycol mass ratio are 2 ~ 1:1 ~ 4, ultrasonic temperature 20-40 DEG C, time 3-15min, power 500-900W, supernatant is got after crude extract frozen centrifugation, cosmetics-stage ethanol is added after reply room temperature, stable standing 2-10 hour, centrifugal, namely supernatant vacuum drying removing ethanol obtain extract.
10. the compositions according to any one in claim 1-5 is for the purposes in sun care preparations, it is characterized in that, described sun care preparations comprises sunscreen, sunlight lotion, sunscreen cream, suntan lotion, sunscreen spray, sun-proof gel, sun screen, isolation breast, isolation dew, BB frost, shampoo, hair conditioner, cosmetic water.
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Effective date of registration: 20201012 Address after: 510800 No. two, No. 23, SAST Road, Huadu Town, Huadu District, Guangdong, Guangzhou Patentee after: GUANGZHOU KENENG COSMETIC RESEARCH Co.,Ltd. Patentee after: GUANGDONG DANZ GROUP Co.,Ltd. Address before: Anson road Yongxing Industrial Zone Baiyun District of Guangzhou City, Guangdong Province, No. 510445 6-1 Patentee before: GUANGZHOU BAIYUN LIANJIA FINE CHEMICAL FACTORY |