Disclosure of Invention
Problems to be solved by the invention
The invention aims to provide a sunscreen repair cosmetic composition, a preparation method and application thereof. The sunscreen repair cosmetic composition contains natural repair components, and can repair skin damage caused by ultraviolet rays and infrared rays.
Further, the sunscreen and repair cosmetic composition of the present invention can realize sunscreen and repair of skin by protecting keratinocytes and DNA in cells and resisting glycation. In addition, the sunscreen repairing cosmetic composition of the invention is a water-moist sunscreen repairing cosmetic composition with 'outer (layer) sunscreen and inner (layer) repairing'.
Means for solving the problems
The invention provides a sunscreen repairing cosmetic composition, which comprises the following components in percentage by weight:
coral algae extract: 0.01-6%, preferably 2-3%;
watermelon fruit extract: 0.01-11%, preferably 4-6%;
sunflower seed extract: 0.01-11%, preferably 4-6%;
the Prinsepia utilis Royle extract: 0.01-11%, preferably 4-6%;
rosemary extract: 0.01-6%, preferably 2-3%;
extract of bearberry leaves: 0.01-6%, preferably 2-3%.
The sunscreen repairing cosmetic composition according to the present invention further comprises an organic ultraviolet absorber; preferably, the organic ultraviolet absorber is added in an amount of 0.1 to 30% by weight of the sunscreen cosmetic composition.
The sunscreen repairing cosmetic composition according to the present invention, the organic ultraviolet absorber includes: one or more of diethyl amino hydroxy benzoyl benzoic acid hexyl ester, ethylhexyl triazone, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, and bis-ethyl hexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine;
preferably, the addition amount of the diethylamino hydroxyl benzoyl benzoic acid hexyl ester is 0.1-10%, the addition amount of the ethylhexyl triazone is 0.1-5%, the addition amount of the ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate is 0.1-10%, and the addition amount of the bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine is 0.1-10% in percentage by weight of the sunscreen repair cosmetic composition.
The sunscreen repair cosmetic composition according to the present invention further includes an inorganic ultraviolet blocking agent; preferably, the inorganic ultraviolet blocker is added in an amount of 0.05-30% by weight of the sunscreen repairing cosmetic composition;
more preferably, the inorganic ultraviolet blocking agent includes: one or two of zinc oxide and titanium dioxide; further preferably, the addition amount of the zinc oxide is 0.05-20% and the addition amount of the titanium dioxide is 0.05-20% in percentage by weight of the sunscreen repairing cosmetic composition.
The sunscreen repairing cosmetic composition further comprises a damaged skin repairing component, wherein the damaged skin repairing component comprises one or more of vitamin E, ceramide, glucan and vitamin B5;
preferably, the sunscreen repairing cosmetic composition further comprises a whitening component, wherein the whitening component comprises one or a combination of more than two of niacinamide, glabridin, tranexamic acid, resveratrol and undecylenoyl phenylalanine;
more preferably, the sunscreen repairing cosmetic composition further comprises a moisturizing component, wherein the moisturizing component comprises one or more of seaweed extract, sodium hyaluronate, aloe extract, luba gum oil, polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol-14/7 dimethyl ether, xylitol, sorbitol and trehalose.
According to the sunscreen repair cosmetic composition, the preparation method of the coral algae extract comprises the following steps:
soaking the crushed coral algae in propylene glycol water solution to obtain a soaking solution;
performing microwave extraction on the soaking solution to obtain a liquid coral algae extract;
preferably, in the propylene glycol aqueous solution, the mass ratio of water to propylene glycol is 2:1-1:4, and the material-liquid ratio of the coral algae crushed material to the propylene glycol aqueous solution is 1:5-1: 60;
more preferably, the soaking time is 4-20 hours, the microwave extraction time is 5-40 minutes, the microwave extraction temperature is 20-100 ℃, and the microwave extraction power is 200-;
preferably, the coral algae crushed material is obtained by degreasing through ethanol and then grinding;
further preferably, the preparation method further comprises the steps of: and filtering the liquid coral algae extract, and then carrying out vacuum drying to obtain a solid coral algae extract.
According to the sunscreen repair cosmetic composition, the preparation method of the watermelon fruit extract comprises the following steps:
soaking the crushed watermelon fruit in a propylene glycol aqueous solution to obtain a soaking solution;
carrying out ultrasonic extraction on the soak solution to obtain a crude extract;
adding ethanol into the crude extract, standing, and removing the ethanol in the crude extract to obtain a watermelon fruit extract;
preferably, in the propylene glycol aqueous solution, the mass ratio of water to propylene glycol is 2:1-1:4, and the material-liquid ratio of the watermelon fruit crushed material to the propylene glycol aqueous solution is 1:5-1: 60;
more preferably, the time of the ultrasonic extraction is 3-15 minutes, the temperature of the ultrasonic extraction is 20-40 ℃, the power of the ultrasonic extraction is 200-1000W, and the time of the standing is 2-10 hours.
The preparation method of the sunflower seed extract according to the sunscreen repair cosmetic composition comprises the following steps:
soaking the crushed sunflower seeds in a propylene glycol aqueous solution to obtain a soaking solution;
carrying out ultrasonic extraction on the soak solution to obtain a crude extract;
adding ethanol into the crude extract, standing, and removing ethanol from the crude extract to obtain sunflower seed extract;
preferably, in the propylene glycol aqueous solution, the mass ratio of water to propylene glycol is 2:1-1:4, and the material-liquid ratio of the sunflower seed crushed material to the propylene glycol aqueous solution is 1:5-1: 60;
more preferably, the time of the ultrasonic extraction is 3-15 minutes, the temperature of the ultrasonic extraction is 20-40 ℃, the power of the ultrasonic extraction is 500-900W, and the time of the standing is 2-10 hours.
The invention also provides the use of the sunscreen repair cosmetic composition according to the invention in sunscreen repair cosmetics comprising sunscreen milk, sunscreen lotion, sunscreen cream, sunscreen liquid, sunscreen powder, sunscreen spray, sunscreen gel, sun screen cream, sun screen lotion, BB cream, shampoo, hair conditioner, skin toner.
The invention also provides a process for the preparation of a sunscreen cosmetic composition according to the invention, characterized in that it comprises a step of mixing the components of the sunscreen cosmetic composition.
ADVANTAGEOUS EFFECTS OF INVENTION
The natural repairing components including the corallinum japonicum extract, the watermelon fruit extract, the sunflower seed extract, the prinsepia utilis royle extract, the bearberry leaf extract and the rosemary extract in the sunscreen repairing cosmetic composition can generate a synergistic effect by compounding, so that sunscreen is realized, the skin sunburn caused by ultraviolet rays and infrared rays is helped to be repaired, the skin elasticity is kept, the skin photoaging is resisted, and the sunscreen repairing cosmetic composition can also lock water, preserve moisture and prevent melanin deposition.
Detailed Description
The invention provides a sunscreen repair cosmetic composition, which comprises the following natural repair components: coral algae extract, watermelon fruit extract, sunflower seed extract, prinsepia utilis royle extract, rosemary extract and bearberry leaf extract.
The coral algae extract is derived from marine red algae, is 'coral seaweed' (red algolites) rich in calcium carbonate and magnesium carbonate, is distributed at the lower layer of rocks of the sea, is rich in collagen and water-soluble dietary fibers, and is easy to be absorbed by human bodies. The coral algae extract can fully absorb infrared rays, can prevent heat from penetrating through a thermal protective agent of skin, and can effectively prevent photoaging caused by ultraviolet rays and infrared rays.
The addition amount of the coral algae extract is 0.01-6%, preferably 2-3%, more preferably 2.5% by weight of the sunscreen and repair cosmetic composition. In the present invention, if the coral algal extract is added in an amount of less than 0.01%, the sunscreen cosmetic composition does not have an obvious barrier effect against infrared rays and heat; if the addition amount of the coral algae extract is more than 6%, the sunscreen and repairing effect of the sunscreen and repairing cosmetic composition is better, but the cost is too high to be implemented. The addition amount of the coral algae extract is 2-3%, especially 2.5%, the sun-proof repair effect and the cost performance are optimal.
In a specific embodiment, the coral algae extract can be prepared by,
step 1), soaking the crushed coral seaweed in a propylene glycol aqueous solution to obtain a soaking solution;
step 2), performing microwave extraction on the soak solution to obtain a liquid coral seaweed extract;
specifically, the mass ratio of water to propylene glycol in the propylene glycol aqueous solution is 2:1-1:4, and the material-liquid ratio of the coral algae crushed material to the propylene glycol aqueous solution is 1:5-1: 60. Preferably, the soaking time is 4-20 hours, the microwave extraction time is 5-40 minutes, the microwave extraction temperature is 20-100 ℃, and the microwave extraction power is 200-1500W. When the coral algae extract is prepared under the above-mentioned preparation conditions, the coral algae extract obtained by the preparation can be applied to a sunscreen cosmetic composition for the purpose of further improving the protective effect on keratinocytes.
More preferably, the crushed coral algae is obtained by degreasing with ethanol and grinding.
Further preferably, the preparation method further comprises the steps of: and filtering the liquid coral algae extract, and then carrying out vacuum drying to obtain a solid coral algae extract.
Specifically, grinding coralline algae degreased by ethanol, placing a proper amount of the coralline algae in a soaking tank, and adding a propylene glycol aqueous solution, wherein the material-liquid ratio of the coralline algae to the propylene glycol aqueous solution is 1:5-1:60, the mass ratio of water to propylene glycol in the propylene glycol aqueous solution is 2-1:1-4, and soaking for 4-20 hours (proper stirring can be carried out in the soaking process) to obtain a soaking solution; then transferring the soak solution into an extraction tank for microwave extraction, wherein the microwave extraction time is 5-40 minutes, the microwave extraction temperature is 20-100 ℃, and the microwave extraction power is 300-1500W, so as to obtain a liquid coral algae extract; filtering the liquid coral algae extract, and vacuum drying to obtain solid coral algae extract.
The watermelon fruit extract is derived from watermelon fruit, and can protect DNA in cells of human skin so as to help the skin resist photoaging. The addition amount of the watermelon fruit extract is 0.01-11%, preferably 4-6%, more preferably 5% by weight of the sunscreen repairing cosmetic composition; if the amount of the watermelon fruit extract added is less than 0.01%, the protective effect on DNA in cells is insufficient; if the addition amount of the watermelon fruit extract is more than 11 percent, the sun-screening and repairing effect of the composition is better, but the cost is too high, which is not beneficial to implementation. When the addition amount of the watermelon fruit extract is within the range of 4-6%, particularly 5%, the sun-screening repair effect and the cost performance are optimal.
In a specific embodiment, the watermelon fruit extract can be prepared by,
step 1), soaking crushed watermelon fruits in a propylene glycol aqueous solution to obtain a soaking solution;
step 2), carrying out ultrasonic extraction on the soak solution to obtain a crude extract;
step 3), adding ethanol into the crude extract, standing, and removing the ethanol in the crude extract to obtain a watermelon fruit extract;
specifically, in the propylene glycol aqueous solution, the mass ratio of water to propylene glycol is 2:1-1:4, and the material-liquid ratio of the watermelon fruit crushed material to the propylene glycol aqueous solution is 1:5-1: 60. Preferably, the soaking time is 14-18 hours, such as 16 hours; the time of the ultrasonic extraction is 3-15 minutes, the temperature of the ultrasonic extraction is 20-40 ℃, and the power of the ultrasonic extraction is 200-1000W; the standing time is 2-10 hours. When the watermelon fruit extract is prepared under the preparation conditions, the prepared watermelon fruit extract is applied to the sunscreen repair cosmetic composition, so that the protection effect on DNA in cells can be further improved.
Preferably, in step 2), the crude extract may be subjected to a purification treatment, such as filtration and then refrigerated centrifugation, to obtain a supernatant of the crude extract, and then ethanol is added to the supernatant of the crude extract, followed by standing, and then ethanol in the supernatant of the crude extract is removed (e.g., by rotary evaporation) to obtain a purified watermelon fruit extract.
Further preferably, the watermelon fruit crushed material is obtained by grinding.
Specifically, grinding watermelon fruits, placing a proper amount of ground watermelon fruits into a soaking tank, and adding a certain proportion of propylene glycol aqueous solution for soaking to obtain a soaking solution; then the soaking solution is subjected to ultrasonic extraction. Specifically, the feed-liquid ratio of the watermelon fruit to the propylene glycol aqueous solution is 1:5-1: 60; in the propylene glycol aqueous solution, the mass ratio of water to propylene glycol is 2-1:1-4, the ultrasonic extraction temperature is 20-40 ℃, the ultrasonic extraction time is 3-15 minutes, the ultrasonic extraction power is 200-1000W, the crude extract is frozen and centrifuged to obtain the supernatant of the crude extract, ethanol (the ethanol is cosmetic grade ethanol) is added after the temperature is recovered to room temperature, the mixture is stably kept stand for 2-10 hours, centrifuged, and the supernatant of the crude extract is subjected to rotary evaporation to remove the ethanol, thus obtaining the watermelon fruit extract.
Preferably, the watermelon fruit extract can be added with a proper amount of preservative, such as phenoxyethanol, ethylhexyl glycerol, caprylyl glycol and the like.
The sunflower seed extract of the present invention is derived from sunflower seeds, and can be used as a component for preventing skin aging, scavenging free radicals, and having antioxidant activity. The sunflower seed extract is rich in various phenolic acids, and can inhibit protein saccharification reaction and reduce the influence of free radicals as an essential component; glycopeptide fragments may reduce the crosslinking reaction that causes collagen fibril hardening.
The sunflower seed extract is added in an amount of 0.01-11%, preferably 4-6%, more preferably 5% by weight of the sunscreen repairing cosmetic composition; if the addition amount of the sunflower seed extract is less than 0.01%, the anti-glycation effect is not obvious; if the amount of the sunflower seed extract added is more than 11%, the cost is too high, which is not suitable for large-scale application. When the addition amount of sunflower seed extract is in the range of 4-6%, especially 5%, the repairing effect on damaged skin and the cost performance of the prepared cosmetic are optimal.
In a particular embodiment, the sunflower seed extract can be prepared by:
soaking the crushed sunflower seeds in a propylene glycol aqueous solution to obtain a soaking solution;
carrying out ultrasonic extraction on the soak solution to obtain a crude extract;
and adding ethanol into the crude extract, standing, and removing the ethanol in the crude extract to obtain the sunflower seed extract.
Specifically, in the propylene glycol aqueous solution, the mass ratio of water to propylene glycol is 2:1-1:4, and the material-liquid ratio of the sunflower seed crushed product to the propylene glycol aqueous solution is 1:5-1: 60; preferably, the soaking time is 14-18 hours, such as 16 hours; the time of the ultrasonic extraction is 3-15 minutes, the temperature of the ultrasonic extraction is 20-40 ℃, and the power of the ultrasonic extraction is 500-900W; the standing time is 2-10 hours. When the sunflower seed extract is prepared under the preparation conditions, the prepared sunflower seed extract is applied to a sunscreen repair cosmetic composition, and the inhibition effect on AGEs (advanced glycation end products) can be further improved.
Specifically, grinding sunflower seeds, placing a proper amount of the ground sunflower seeds in a soaking tank, and adding a certain proportion of propylene glycol aqueous solution for soaking to obtain a soaking solution; then carrying out ultrasonic extraction on the soaking solution, wherein the material-liquid ratio of the sunflower seeds to the propylene glycol aqueous solution is 1:5-1: 60; in the propylene glycol aqueous solution, the mass ratio of water to propylene glycol is 2-1:1-4, the ultrasonic extraction temperature is 20-40 ℃, the ultrasonic extraction time is 3-15 minutes, the ultrasonic extraction power is 200-1000W, the crude extract is frozen and centrifuged to obtain the supernatant of the crude extract, ethanol (the ethanol is cosmetic grade ethanol) is added after the temperature is recovered to room temperature, the mixture is stably kept stand for 2-10 hours, centrifuged, and the supernatant of the crude extract is subjected to rotary evaporation to remove the ethanol, thus obtaining the sunflower seed extract.
According to the preparation method of the coralline algae extract, the watermelon fruit extract and the sunflower seed extract, propylene glycol is used as an extraction solvent, and possible harm caused by a conventional organic solvent is avoided, so that the safety and effectiveness of the coralline algae extract, the watermelon fruit extract and the sunflower seed extract are ensured.
The Prinsepia utilis Royle extract has the oil proportion very close to that of human stratum corneum intercellular substance, is compatible and easy to absorb, and can repair the stratum corneum when being used in the Prinsepia utilis Royle extract, thereby achieving good moisturizing and repairing effects. The prinsepia utilis royle extract can be extracted by adopting a conventional extraction method.
For example, supercritical CO may be employed2Extracting to obtain Prinsepia utilis Royle extract. Specifically, the preparation method of the prinsepia utilis royle extract comprises the following steps:
placing the crushed prinsepia utilis royle in a reaction kettle, and introducing CO2And performing circulating extraction to obtain the prinsepia utilis royle extract.
Wherein, reation kettle includes the extraction cauldron with the separation cauldron that the extraction cauldron is connected.
Specifically, the extraction temperature is 30-60 ℃, and the extraction pressure isIs 20-50 MPa; the separation temperature is 20-50 ℃, and the separation pressure is 2.5-10 MPa. The extraction pressure and the separation pressure are regulated by high-pressure pumps. When the pressure reaches the extraction pressure and the separation pressure respectively, the circulation extraction is started, and CO is adjusted2Dynamic flow, and extracting for 1-4 hours after the system is stable to obtain the prinsepia utilis royle extract.
Specifically, the prinsepia utilis royle is crushed and then is sieved by a 40-mesh sieve, and the crushed prinsepia utilis royle is obtained; placing the prinsepia utilis royle crushed material in an extraction kettle, and heating the extraction kettle and a separation kettle. And when the temperature reaches the set temperature, opening the high-pressure pump to pressurize the extraction kettle and the separation kettle, wherein the extraction temperature is 30-60 ℃, the extraction pressure is 20-50MPa, the separation temperature is 20-50 ℃, and the separation pressure is 2.5-10 MPa. When the pressure reaches the extraction pressure and the separation pressure respectively, the circulation extraction is started, and CO is adjusted2Dynamic flow, and extracting for 1-4 hours after the system is stable to obtain the prinsepia utilis royle extract.
The Prinsepia utilis royle extract is added in an amount of 0.01-11%, preferably 4-6%, more preferably 5% by weight of the sunscreen repair cosmetic composition. If the addition amount of the prinsepia utilis royle extract is less than 0.01%, the moisturizing and repairing effects are not obvious; if the amount of the Prinsepia utilis Royle extract added is more than 11%, the cost is too high.
The rosemary extract contains various effective components such as carnosic acid, rosmarinic acid, carnosol and the like, can play a role in clearing free radicals of a human body, quenching singlet oxygen and maintaining normal physiological functions of the human body, and has the effects of delaying senility and resisting oxidation. The rosemary extract of the present invention can be extracted by a conventional extraction method.
For example, supercritical CO may be employed2Extracting to obtain herba Rosmarini officinalis extract. Specifically, the preparation method of the rosemary extract comprises the following steps:
placing the rosemary crushed material into a reaction kettle, and introducing CO2And performing circulating extraction to obtain the prinsepia utilis royle extract.
Wherein, reation kettle includes the extraction cauldron with the separation cauldron that the extraction cauldron is connected.
Specifically, the extraction temperature is 25-55 ℃, and the extraction pressure is 20-50 MPa; the separation temperature is 25-55 ℃, and the separation pressure is 2-8 MPa. The extraction pressure and the separation pressure are regulated by high-pressure pumps. When the pressure reaches the extraction pressure and the separation pressure respectively, the circulation extraction is started, and CO is adjusted2Dynamic flow, and extracting for 1-4 hr after the system is stabilized to obtain rosemary extract.
Specifically, the rosemary leaves are taken and crushed, and then are sieved by a 40-mesh sieve to obtain a rosemary crushed matter; placing the rosemary crushed matter in an extraction kettle, and heating the extraction kettle and a separation kettle. And when the temperature reaches the set temperature, opening the high-pressure pump to pressurize the extraction kettle and the separation kettle, wherein the extraction temperature is 25-55 ℃, the extraction pressure is 20-50MPa, the separation temperature is 25-55 ℃, and the separation pressure is 2-8 MPa. When the pressure reaches the extraction pressure and the separation pressure respectively, the circulation extraction is started, and CO is adjusted2Dynamic flow, and extracting for 1-4 hr after the system is stabilized to obtain rosemary extract.
The addition amount of the rosemary extract is 0.01 to 6 percent, preferably 2 to 3 percent, calculated by the weight percentage of the sunscreen repair cosmetic composition; if the addition amount of the rosemary extract is less than 0.01 percent, the antioxidant effect is not obvious; if the addition amount of rosemary extract is more than 6%, the antioxidant effect of the composition is better, but the cost is too high, which is not beneficial to implementation. When the addition amount of the rosemary extract is within the range of 2-3%, especially when the addition amount is 2.5%, the antioxidant effect and the cost performance are optimal.
The bearberry leaf extract can prevent melanin deposition, fade color spots and delay skin aging. The bearberry leaf extract can be extracted by adopting a conventional extraction method.
For example, the bearberry leaf extract can be prepared by an ultrasonic extraction method. Specifically, the preparation method of the bearberry leaf extract comprises the following steps:
soaking the crushed folium Vaccinii Vitis-idaeae in water to obtain soaking solution;
carrying out ultrasonic extraction on the soak solution to obtain a crude extract;
and adding ethanol into the crude extract, standing, and removing the ethanol in the crude extract to obtain the bearberry leaf extract.
Specifically, the material-liquid ratio of the bearberry leaves to the deionized water is 1:10-1: 60; the temperature of ultrasonic extraction is 20-50 ℃; the ultrasonic extraction time is 5-20 minutes; the power of ultrasonic extraction is 200-800W.
Specifically, grinding the bearberry leaves, placing the ground bearberry leaves in a soaking tank, adding deionized water for soaking to obtain a soaking solution, and then carrying out ultrasonic extraction on the soaking solution. Wherein the material-liquid ratio of the bearberry leaves to the deionized water is 1:10-1: 60; the temperature of ultrasonic extraction is 20-50 ℃; the ultrasonic extraction time is 5-20 minutes; the power of ultrasonic extraction is 200-800W; then, the crude extract was subjected to refrigerated centrifugation to obtain a supernatant of the crude extract. Adding ethanol (cosmetic grade ethanol) after room temperature is recovered, standing for 4-8 hr, centrifuging, and rotary evaporating the supernatant to remove ethanol to obtain folium Vaccinii Vitis-idaeae extract.
The addition amount of the bearberry leaf extract is 0.01-6%, preferably 2-3% by weight of the sunscreen repair cosmetic composition. If the addition amount of the bearberry leaf extract is less than 0.01%, the whitening and spot-lightening effects are not obvious; if the addition amount of the bearberry leaf extract is more than 6%, the effect of the composition is better, but the cost is too high, which is not beneficial to implementation. When the addition amount of the bearberry leaf extract is within the range of 2-3%, particularly 2.5%, the spot-fading effect and the cost performance are optimal.
The preparation method of the prinsepia utilis royle extract, the rosemary extract and the bearberry leaf extract can also be free of conventional organic solvents, so that the damage caused by the organic solvents is avoided, and the safety and the effectiveness of the prinsepia utilis royle extract, the rosemary extract and the bearberry leaf extract are ensured.
Further, the sunscreen repairing cosmetic composition of the present invention is obtained mainly by mixing an oil phase and an aqueous phase, and adding other ingredients.
The oil phase mainly comprises emulsifier, auxiliary emulsifier, emollient, and sunscreen agent, but can also comprise other components according to requirement.
The emulsifier is not particularly limited as long as it can form a water-in-oil (W/O) type or oil-in-water (O/W) type emulsified sunscreen cosmetic composition, and examples thereof include cetearyl alcohol, cetearyl glucoside, polysorbate-60, potassium cetyl phosphate, cetyl polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol-10/1 dimethicone, lauryl polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol-18/18-dimethicone, polyethylene glycol-10 dimethicone, and polyglycerin-3 diisostearate.
As the co-emulsifier, for example, glyceryl stearate, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated lecithin and the like can be used.
The emollient may be any emollient commonly used in the cosmetic field, and is not particularly limited. Specifically, C12-15 alcohol benzoate, polydimethylsiloxane, octyl methicone, diisopropyl sebacate, isododecane, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, C16-18 alkanol, phenyltrimethicone, and the like can be used.
As the sunscreen agent, an organic ultraviolet absorber and an inorganic ultraviolet blocking agent which are generally used in the field of cosmetics can be used, and there is no particular limitation. Specifically, organic ultraviolet absorbers such as hexyl diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl benzoate, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, benzophenone-3, ethylhexyl triazone, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, octyl salicylate, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, octocrylene, and the like can be used.
The sunscreen repairing cosmetic composition provided by the invention is characterized in that the organic ultraviolet absorbent is added in an amount of 0.1-30% by weight of the sunscreen repairing cosmetic composition. Preferably, the organic uv absorber comprises a combination of diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, ethylhexyl triazone, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine.
In the present invention, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate may be used to absorb ultraviolet rays of the UVA band, thereby preventing tanning and inducing skin cancer; the ethylhexyl triazone and the ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate can absorb ultraviolet rays in UVB band, thereby preventing skin from being sunburned; the bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine can be used as a broad-spectrum UVA absorbent, and particularly has larger absorption in the 330-350nm region where the other three ultraviolet absorbers absorb very weakly so as to make up the defects of the other three sunscreens. In addition, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate can be used as a solvent of other organic ultraviolet absorbers, and the four organic ultraviolet absorbers have a synergistic effect, so that a more stable and efficient sunscreen effect can be obtained.
Preferably, the addition amount of the diethylamino hydroxyl benzoyl benzoic acid hexyl ester is 0.1-10%, the addition amount of the ethylhexyl triazone is 0.1-5%, the addition amount of the ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate is 0.1-10%, and the addition amount of the bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine is 0.1-10% in percentage by weight of the sunscreen repair cosmetic composition.
Inorganic ultraviolet ray blocking agents such as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide may also be used according to the sunscreen repairing cosmetic composition of the present invention. Among them, zinc oxide may be used to block ultraviolet rays in the UVA band, and titanium dioxide may be used to block ultraviolet rays in the UVB band.
The addition amount of the inorganic ultraviolet blocking agent is 0.05 to 30 percent in percentage by weight of the sunscreen repair cosmetic composition; preferably, the addition amount of the zinc oxide is 0.05-20% and the addition amount of the titanium dioxide is 0.05-20% in percentage by weight of the sunscreen repairing cosmetic composition.
The water phase comprises humectant, thickener, pH regulator, and optionally other components.
The humectant is not particularly limited as long as it is a humectant commonly used in the cosmetic field, and examples thereof include glycerin, propylene glycol, seaweed extract, sodium hyaluronate, aloe vera extract, luba gum oil, polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol-14/7 dimethyl ether, xylitol, sorbitol, and trehalose.
Examples of the thickener include acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosslinked polymers, carbomer, xanthan gum, distearyldimethylamine hectorite, and the like.
Examples of the pH adjuster include arginine, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, triethanolamine, and aminomethyl propanol.
Damaged skin repair ingredients having a damaged skin repair effect, for example: one or more of vitamin E, ceramide, dextran, and vitamin B5 can also be added into sunscreen cosmetic composition.
Whitening ingredients having whitening and spot-lightening effects, for example: one or more of nicotinamide, glabridin, tranexamic acid, resveratrol, and undecylenoyl phenylalanine, and can also be added into sunscreen cosmetic composition.
The invention also provides the application of the sunscreen repair cosmetic composition in sunscreen repair cosmetics, wherein the sunscreen repair cosmetics comprise sunscreen emulsion, sunscreen lotion, sunscreen cream, sunscreen liquid, sunscreen powder, sunscreen spray, sunscreen gel, sun-block cream, sun-block emulsion, sun-block lotion, BB cream, shampoo, hair conditioner and toner.
In addition, the present invention also provides a method for preparing the sunscreen repairing cosmetic composition according to the present invention, comprising the step of mixing the components of the sunscreen repairing cosmetic composition.
Examples
Embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail below with reference to examples, but those skilled in the art will appreciate that the following examples are only illustrative of the present invention and should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. The examples, in which specific conditions are not specified, were conducted under conventional conditions or conditions recommended by the manufacturer. The reagents or instruments used are not indicated by the manufacturer, and are all conventional products commercially available.
Examples 1 to 31
The preparation method of the coral algae extract comprises the following steps:
step 1), soaking the crushed coral seaweed in a propylene glycol aqueous solution to obtain a soaking solution;
and 2) performing microwave extraction on the soak solution to obtain the coral algae extract according to different preparation conditions shown in the table 1. The protective effect of the obtained coral algae extract on keratinocytes was then determined, and the results are shown in table 1.
The test method for the keratinocyte survival rate comprises the following steps: the cell activity was measured by MTT assay. Subjecting keratinocyte to treatment at 5 × 103The culture medium is inoculated in a 96-well plate at a density of/mL, the cells are cultured into A, B groups when being fused with 60-70%, the cells of the group A are routinely cultured for 24 hours after being irradiated by infrared rays, and the cells of the group B are cultured for 24 hours after coral algae extracts obtained under different preparation conditions are added. Then, 15. mu.L of MTT (tetrazolium salt) was added to each well at a concentration of 5mg/mL and 5% CO at 37 ℃ to each well2Saturated steam CO2Culturing for 4 hr, collecting supernatant, adding 150 μ L of dimethyl sulfoxide into each well, shaking at room temperature for 10 min, and measuring absorbance OD at 490nm with microplate reader. The keratinocyte survival rate was calculated for different treatment groups based on the normal control cells as 100%.
TABLE 1
As can be seen from Table 1, the coral algal extract prepared by the present invention has an excellent protective effect on keratinocytes.
Examples 32 to 62
The preparation method of the watermelon fruit extract comprises the following steps:
step 1), soaking crushed watermelon fruits in a propylene glycol aqueous solution to obtain a soaking solution;
step 2), carrying out ultrasonic extraction on the soak solution to obtain a crude extract;
and 3) adding ethanol into the crude extract, standing, removing the ethanol in the crude extract, obtaining the watermelon fruit extract according to different preparation conditions shown in the table 2, and measuring the protection effect of the obtained watermelon fruit extract on DNA in cells, wherein the protection effect is shown in the following table 2.
Test methods for DNA protection: culturing fibroblast in vitro, adding watermelon fruit extract, culturing for 2 hr, irradiating with ultraviolet, and detecting the protection of the extract on DNA in the cell by single cell gel electrophoresis (comet assay).
The specific detection steps are as follows:
cell preparation: diluting fibroblast, inoculating to culture dish, culturing at 37 deg.C with 5% CO2Culturing in the environment of (1). After 24 hours of inoculation, the watermelon fruit extract was added, and a control group was set. After 2 hours of culture, the culture medium was aspirated, 3mL of phenol red-free Hank's solution was added, and ultraviolet irradiation was performed. Absorbing Hank's solution, washing twice with D-Hank's solution, adding trypsin for digestion for 5-10 min, discarding the trypsin, adding 0.1mLPBS buffer solution, eluting the cells from the wall, centrifuging at 1000r/min for 8 min, collecting the cells, discarding the supernatant, adding a proper amount of 0.1mLPBS buffer solution, and mixing the cells uniformly to prepare cell suspension.
Single cell gel electrophoresis experiment: (1) taking 20 mu L of cell suspension and 80 mu L of low-melting-point glue, uniformly mixing, preheating, flatly paving on a glass slide with the size of 30mm multiplied by 20mm, covering a cover glass, and waiting for coagulation; (2) removing the cover glass, and immersing the glass slide with the gel in cell lysis solution at 4 ℃ for 2 hours; (3) transferring the cracked slide into a fresh electrophoresis solution, and carrying out temperature control at 4 ℃ for 30 minutes; (4) electrophoresis is carried out for 1 hour at 25V and 160 mA; (5) taking out the glass slide, rinsing and neutralizing the glass slide for 3 times by using PBS buffer solution, and 5 minutes for each time; (6) staining with ethidium bromide for 15 min, wherein the dosage of each tablet is 40-50 mu L; (7) coverslips were covered and observed under a fluorescent microscope and 100 cells were recorded per group.
TABLE 2
Repair As can be seen from Table 2, the prepared watermelon fruit extract has a very good protective effect on DNA in cells.
Examples 63 to 93
The preparation method of the sunflower seed extract comprises the following steps:
step 1), soaking the crushed sunflower seeds in a propylene glycol aqueous solution to obtain a soaking solution;
step 2), carrying out ultrasonic extraction on the soak solution to obtain a crude extract;
and 3), adding ethanol into the crude extract, standing, removing the ethanol in the crude extract, and obtaining the sunflower seed extract according to different preparation conditions shown in Table 3.
The obtained sunflower seed extract was then assayed for anti-glycation as shown in table 3 below.
The specific operation is as follows:
establishing a saccharification reaction system: bovine serum albumin and glucose are used to form a saccharification reaction system. Dissolving bovine serum albumin and glucose with 0.1mol/L phosphate buffer solution, respectively, adding 0.02% sodium azide and sunflower seed extract to make the concentrations of glucose and bovine serum albumin in the system respectively 500mmol/L and 40g/L, and culturing in an incubator at 37 deg.C. A control group was set up: a is not added with sunflower seed extract, only has a saccharification reaction system; b is bovine serum albumin control; c is a control added with sunflower seed extract and glucose; and D is a control added with sunflower seed extract and bovine serum albumin.
Measurement of inhibitory Effect on the production of AGEs, glycosylation end products: after the saccharification reaction system is cultured in an incubator at 37 ℃, fluorescence values F of all groups of reaction liquid are measured by a fluorescence spectrophotometer under the conditions of excitation wavelength of 370nm, emission wavelength of 440nm and slit of 1nm, and the inhibition rate of the sunflower seed extract on AGEs (advanced glycation end products) is obtained. Inhibition rate ═ 1- (F)Sunflower seed extract-FControl C-FControl D)/(FControl A-FControl B)]×100%。
TABLE 3
As can be seen from table 3, the saccharification reaction can be effectively inhibited by using the sunflower seed extract of the present invention.
Examples 94 to 142
In examples 94 to 142 of the present invention, the preparation method of the prinsepia utilis royle extract comprises: crushing the prinsepia utilis royle, and screening the crushed prinsepia utilis royle through a 40-mesh sieve to obtain a prinsepia utilis royle crushed object; weighing 50g of sieved prinsepia utilis royle crushed material, placing the weighed crushed prinsepia utilis royle crushed material into an extraction kettle, and heating the extraction kettle and a separation kettle. And when the temperature reaches the set temperature, opening the high-pressure pump to pressurize the extraction kettle and the separation kettle, wherein the extraction temperature is 50 ℃, the extraction pressure is 30MPa, the separation temperature is 40 ℃, and the separation pressure is 5 MPa. When the pressure reaches the extraction pressure and the separation pressure respectively, the circulation extraction is started, and CO is adjusted2After the system is stable, extracting for 2 hours to obtain the prinsepia utilis royle extract.
The preparation method of the rosemary extract comprises the following steps: pulverizing rosemary leaves, and sieving with a 40-mesh sieve to obtain a rosemary pulverized matter; weighing 50g of the rosemary crushed matter, placing the rosemary crushed matter into an extraction kettle, and heating the extraction kettle and a separation kettle. And when the temperature reaches the set temperature, opening the high-pressure pump to pressurize the extraction kettle and the separation kettle, wherein the extraction temperature is 35 ℃, the extraction pressure is 30MPa, the separation temperature is 35 ℃, and the separation pressure is 6 MPa. When the pressure reaches the extraction pressure and the separation pressure respectively, the circulation extraction is started, and CO is adjusted2Dynamic flow, and extracting for 2h after the system is stable to obtain rosemary extract.
The preparation method of the bearberry leaf extract comprises the following steps: grinding 50g of bearberry leaves, placing the grinded leaves in a soaking tank, adding deionized water for soaking to obtain a soaking solution, and then carrying out ultrasonic extraction on the soaking solution. Wherein the material-liquid ratio of the bearberry leaves to the deionized water is 1: 40; the temperature of ultrasonic extraction is 30 ℃; the ultrasonic extraction time is 10 minutes; the power of ultrasonic extraction is 600W; the crude extract was subjected to refrigerated centrifugation to obtain a supernatant of the crude extract. After the temperature is recovered to room temperature, adding ethanol (the ethanol is cosmetic grade ethanol), standing for 6 hours stably, and centrifuging. And (4) performing rotary evaporation on the supernatant of the crude extract to remove ethanol to obtain the bearberry leaf extract.
The sunscreen repair cosmetic was prepared according to the contents (parts by weight) of the components in the sunscreen cosmetic formulation in table 4 below, and according to the following procedure.
The preparation method of the sunscreen repair cosmetic comprises the following steps:
1) mixing the oil phases, heating to 80 deg.C, and dissolving completely.
2) Mixing the water phases, heating to 80 ℃, and completely dissolving until the water phases are dissolved, wherein the adding amount of the deionized water is determined according to each component of the sunscreen repair cosmetic, so that the weight part of the sunscreen repair cosmetic is 100.
3) Adding the oil phase into the water phase, homogenizing at 2000r/min for 10 min, and cooling under stirring.
4) Then cooling to 40 ℃, adding sun-screening repair components (specifically added according to the content in table 5, including coral algae extract, watermelon fruit extract, sunflower seed extract, prinsepia utilis royle extract, rosemary extract and bearberry leaf extract) and other raw materials (specifically added according to the content in table 4, and other raw materials including preservative and essence), stirring and cooling to below 30 ℃ to obtain the sun-screening repair cosmetic.
TABLE 4
The coral algae extract prepared in example 13, the watermelon fruit extract prepared in example 41, the sunflower seed extract prepared in example 76, and the prinsepia utilis royle extract, the rosemary extract and the bearberry leaf extract were used according to the different addition amounts shown in table 5 and the basic formula of the sunscreen care cosmetic shown in table 4, and were prepared according to the preparation method of the sunscreen care cosmetic.
Comparative examples 1 to 7
The coral algae extract prepared in example 13, the watermelon fruit extract prepared in example 41, the sunflower seed extract prepared in example 76, and the prinsepia utilis royle extract, the rosemary extract and the bearberry leaf extract were used, and were prepared according to the different addition amounts shown in table 6 and the basic formula of the sunscreen care cosmetic shown in table 4, and according to the preparation method of the sunscreen care cosmetic.
Evaluation of sunscreen repair Effect
(1) Skin elasticity test
Skin elasticity test was performed on 10 female testers who were healthy, using the sunscreen cosmetics prepared in examples 94 to 142 and the sunscreen cosmetics prepared in comparative examples 1 to 7, respectively, and the skin elasticity increase rate was calculated. The composition was administered twice daily for 7 consecutive days, and the results are shown in tables 5 and 6 below.
Skin elasticity increase rate test method: the skin elasticity was measured by a skin elasticity measuring instrument, and the elasticity increase rate was (detection value-basic value)/basic value.
(2) Human use effect scoring
The sunscreen cosmetics prepared in examples 94 to 142 and the sunscreen cosmetics prepared in comparative examples 1 to 7 were used to select 10 healthy female testers for evaluation of sunscreen repair effect, and 10 points were used, with 10 points being the best sunscreen repair effect, 9 points being the worst sunscreen repair effect, and 1 point being the worst sunscreen repair effect. The composition was administered twice daily for 7 consecutive days, and the results are shown in tables 5 and 6 below.
TABLE 5
TABLE 6
As can be seen from tables 5 and 6, the sunscreen repair cosmetic composition of the present application can increase skin elasticity, having sunscreen repair effect. Moreover, when the content of the sunscreen repair cosmetic composition is within a certain range, the skin elasticity increasing rate is higher, and the sunscreen repair effect is better.