CN104611873B - 一种改善涤棉自然弹斜纹织物扭曲的染整加工方法 - Google Patents
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种改善涤棉自然弹斜纹织物扭曲的染整加工方法,其步骤包括:烧毛→退浆→丝光→一次定型→二次定型→预缩→码布。其中,丝光工序采用的碱浓为350‑400g/L,调整布铗链的速度,保证织物一边的行程大于另外一边,使织物带碱时的反斜程度在15‑25%,水洗后去碱后调节整纬器,保证织物正常落布;一次定型采用160‑175℃,轧水,调节整纬器将织物反斜拉斜15‑25%,时间在30‑45s;二次定型温度在100‑130℃,浸轧聚氨酯弹性整理剂,正常落布。采用该染整加工方法生产的涤棉自然弹斜纹织物的扭曲能达到纺织行业标准及客户要求。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及一种改善涤棉自然弹斜纹织物扭曲的染整加工方法,属于印染行业合成纤维染整技术领域。
背景技术
涤棉自然弹斜纹织物具有挺括不皱,易洗易干,外形稳定,手感柔软,穿着舒适等特点,是制作衬衫面料的首选,深受广大消费者的喜爱。本身斜纹织物的交织点不如平纹织物多,在水洗过程中,由于纤维发生溶胀,内应力松弛,容易产生扭曲问题。加之,为了获得更佳的自然弹性,纬向采用的是强捻纱,加剧了织物的扭曲程度。常规整理后该品种织物的扭曲在10%以上,并呈现不稳定性。目前,对于扭曲问题的解决方法有以下四种:1)利用S、Z捻纱作隔口交替织入,但会影响布面效果;2)采用反向丝光的方法,对于全棉织物效果显著,但对于涤棉织物改善不大;3)采用反向树脂整理,增加了生产成本,整理后面料存在甲醛释放的问题,同时对织物的强力、手感等物理机械性能造成不良影响;4)服装裁片前根据织物的扭曲程度进行预拉斜处理,缺点是斜度难以准确控制,且对于有纬向条纹的织物不适用。
发明内容
本发明所要解决的技术问题是:提供一种改善涤棉自然弹斜纹织物扭曲、保证织物的外观不受影响、且无需施加树脂的染整加工方法。
为解决上述技术问题,本发明所采用的技术方案为:一种改善涤棉自然弹斜纹织物扭曲的染整加工方法,其步骤包括:烧毛→退浆→丝光→一次定型→二次定型→预缩→码布。
所述烧毛工序采用一正一反气体烧毛,车速为110-130米/分,油量为10-14kg/h。
所述退浆工序,采用淀粉酶退浆,淀粉酶用量为2-5g/L,渗透剂3-5g/L,车速为60-80m/min,温度保持在50-60℃堆置25-35min,然后80-90℃水洗2格,50-60℃水洗3格。
所述的丝光工序使用的烧碱浓度为350-400g/L,(车速为30-50米/分)调整布铗链的速度,保证织物一边的行程大于另外一边,织物带碱时的反斜程度在15-25%,水洗后去碱后调整整纬器,保证织物正常落布。
所述一次定型:温度为160-175℃,轧水,调整整纬器将织物反斜拉斜15-25%,时间为30-45s;所述二次定型:温度为100-130℃,浸轧聚氨酯弹性整理剂,用量为30-50g/L,烘干,车速在30-50m/min,保证落布时织物的纬弧、纬斜达到规定的要求。
采用上述技术方案后,本发明的效果是:通过设备改造,调整布铗链的速度,使得织物在丝光过程中,一边的行程快于另一边,保证织物带碱时的反斜程度在15-25%,水洗去碱后调节整纬器,正常落布,所述反斜向是指织物的倾斜方向与织物本身的斜纹方向相反。然后定型两遍,第一遍定型,调节整纬器,将织物进行反向拉斜15-25%,高温条件下涤纶纤维进行反斜向定型,以抵消纱线退捻产生的内应力,有效降低了整理后织物的扭曲程度;第二遍定型,将纬纱调节至与经纱垂直的状态,同时浸轧聚氨酯弹性整理剂,提高织物的弹性,赋予织物柔软、滑爽、丰满的手感风格。采用此法,保证织物的外观不受影响,且无需施加树脂,水洗后织物的扭曲控制在3.0%以内。完全可以达到行业标准及客户要求。
具体实施方式
实施例1
材料:120*9045(55%T45%C)*45(55%T45%C),成布门幅57/58”,右斜2/2;
步骤包括烧毛→退浆→丝光→定型→预缩→码布,其中烧毛:一正一反气体烧毛,车速120m/min,油量12kg/h;
退浆工序,采用淀粉酶退浆,车速为80m/min,堆置55℃35min,水洗85℃2格,55℃水洗3格。
丝光工序,采用碱浓370g/L,正常落布。
定型工序,120℃,聚氨酯弹性整理剂50g/L,车速为40m/min,正常落布。
实施例2
材料:120*9045(55%T45%C)*45(55%T45%C),成布门幅57/58”,右斜2/2;
步骤包括烧毛→退浆→丝光→定型→预缩→码布,其中烧毛:一正一反气体烧毛,车速120m/min,油量12kg/h;
退浆工序,采用淀粉酶退浆,车速为80m/min,堆置55℃35min,水洗85℃2格,55℃水洗3格。
丝光工序,采用碱浓370g/L,调整布铗链速度,保证织物一边的行程大于另外一边,织物带碱时反斜25cm,落布时保证经纱与纬纱垂直;
定型工序,120℃,聚氨酯弹性整理剂50g/L,车速为45m/min,正常落布。
实施例3
材料:120*9045(55%T45%C)*45(55%T45%C),成布门幅57/58”,右斜2/2;
其步骤包括:烧毛→退浆→丝光→一次定型→二次定型→预缩→码布,其中烧毛:一正一反气体烧毛,车速120m/min,油量12kg/h;
退浆工序,采用淀粉酶退浆,车速为80m/min,堆置55℃35min,水洗85℃2格,55℃水洗3格。
丝光工序,采用碱浓370g/L,调整布铗链速度,织物带碱时反斜25cm,水洗后去碱后调整整纬器,保证织物正常落布;
一次定型,温度170℃,轧水,车速为30m/min,调节整纬器保证织物反斜25cm。
二次定型,温度120℃,聚氨酯弹性整理剂50g/L,车速为45m/min,保证落布时织物的纬弧、纬斜达到规定的要求。
经过实例1、2、3的染整加工方法后所得到的结果为:
该法通过结合反斜向丝光与反斜向定型的方式,分别作用于棉纤维与涤纶纤维,最大限度地释放织物的内应力,有效降低了水洗后织物的扭曲程度。
Claims (1)
1.一种改善涤棉自然弹斜纹织物扭曲的染整加工方法,其工序包括:烧毛→退浆→丝光→一次定型→二次定型→预缩→码布:
所述烧毛工序采用一正一反气体烧毛,车速为110-130米/分,油量为10-14kg/h;
所述退浆工序,采用淀粉酶退浆,淀粉酶用量为2-5g/L,渗透剂3-5g/L,车速为60-80m/min,温度保持在50-60℃堆置25-35min,然后80-90℃水洗2格,50-60℃水洗3格;
所述的丝光工序使用的烧碱浓度为350-400g/L,工艺过程中调整布铗链的速度,保证织物一边的行程大于另外一边,织物带碱时的反斜程度在15-25%,水洗、去碱后调整整纬器,保证织物正常落布;
所述一次定型:温度为160-175℃,轧水,调整整纬器将织物反斜拉斜15-25%,时间为30-45s;所述二次定型:温度为100-130℃,浸轧聚氨酯弹性整理剂,用量为30-50g/L,烘干,车速在30-50m/min保证落布时织物的纬弧、纬斜达到规定的要求。
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