CN104372599B - 一种使牛仔布呈现陈旧视觉效果的加工方法 - Google Patents

一种使牛仔布呈现陈旧视觉效果的加工方法 Download PDF

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CN104372599B
CN104372599B CN201410703238.0A CN201410703238A CN104372599B CN 104372599 B CN104372599 B CN 104372599B CN 201410703238 A CN201410703238 A CN 201410703238A CN 104372599 B CN104372599 B CN 104372599B
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denim
desizing
carried out
softening
rinsing machine
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CN104372599A (zh
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章诚
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ZHEJIANG TENGMA TEXTILE CO., LTD.
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Zhejiang Tengma Textile Co Ltd
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Abstract

一种使牛仔布呈现陈旧视觉效果的加工方法，其特征在于包括以下步骤：（１）将牛仔布进行退浆软化处理；（2）将牛仔布脱水取出，然后置于水洗机中；（3）对牛仔布进行水洗酵素处理；（3）水洗酵素处理后对牛仔布进行清洗；（4）清洗处理后对牛仔布进行猫须处理；（5）猫须处理后对牛仔布进行订针处理和磨破处理；（6）磨破处理后对牛仔布依序进行清洗、脱水、烘干、整烫定型、挂架烘焙即得成品牛仔布。所得牛仔布陈旧感真实，对整体面料损伤小。

Description

一种使牛仔布呈现陈旧视觉效果的加工方法
技术领域
本发明涉及一种使牛仔布呈现陈旧视觉效果的加工方法。
背景技术
牛仔面料在19世纪即被制成具有布深厚重、硬挺、坚韧耐磨的牛仔裤，从而深受蓝领阶层的喜爱，随后经历了服装款式设计时尚化、面料品质组织结构多样化、加工工艺多元组合化、布面效果功能系列化、成衣洗水工艺艺术化等方面的演变与技术创新，牛仔面料日益满足率人们各种个性化需求，成为老少皆宜的全球性服装商品。
20世纪70年代以来，牛仔布在我国以相当快的速度向前发展，据不完全统计，中国每年生产的牛仔布已达到20多亿米，占世界1/4，牛仔服装也在27亿件以上，可以说，我过已成为国际上牛仔布重要的生产国。随着市场的发展，以前常规牛仔布一统天下的时代早已过去，现在各种颜色的牛仔布竞相争宠，传统的牛仔是由靛蓝染色，颜色较为深厚，为了迎合各方面的需求，做旧型牛仔也受到了越来越多人的喜爱，通常采取特定的洗水工艺即可达到一定的做旧效果，但是目前各种做旧洗水工艺参差不齐，各种工艺条件选择不当，容易造成做旧效果不均匀或者降低牛仔布面料强度或容易褪色等问题。市场上呈现陈旧视觉效果的牛仔布褪色不均匀，并且只是牛仔布表层褪色，还能看到牛仔布纤维的物理损伤，价格高。
发明内容
发明目的：本发明的目的是为了解决现有技术的不足，提供一种使牛仔布呈现陈旧视觉效果的加工方法，使牛仔布呈现一种长年穿着下来的陈旧的风格、时尚的感觉，该工艺方法使牛仔布褪色均匀，牛仔布的纤维不受到物理损伤，并且成本低。
技术方案：为了实现以上目的，本发明所述的一种使牛仔布呈现陈旧视觉效果的加工方法，它包括以下几个步骤：
一种使牛仔布呈现陈旧视觉效果的加工方法，其特征在于包括以下步骤：（１）将牛仔布进行退浆软化处理；（2）将牛仔布脱水取出，然后置于水洗机中；（3）对牛仔布进行水洗酵素处理；（3）水洗酵素处理后对牛仔布进行清洗；（4）清洗处理后对牛仔布进行猫须处理；（5）猫须处理后对牛仔布进行订针处理和磨破处理；（6）磨破处理后对牛仔布依序进行清洗、脱水、烘干、整烫定型、挂架烘焙即得成品牛仔布。
所述牛仔布是采用70-80%棉，5-10%的聚氨酯弹性纤维以及10-25%的涤纶作为经纱，7.5Ｓ的棉毛混纺纱作纬纱，织成斜纹牛仔坯布，织物规格：140×90根/寸，1/3斜纹，经纱和纬纱都经过淀粉上浆处理，浆料中各组分的重量百分比为淀粉50-60%、PVA 20-30%，柔软剂2-5%、聚丙烯酸25-40%、蜡片1-3%，上浆的工艺条件为上浆槽温度为90-98℃，上浆率10-12%，压浆辊压力位25-30kN，车速20-30m/min。
步骤（1）采用软化退浆液进行软化退浆处理，所述软化退浆液包括淀粉酶、纤维素酶，非离子表面活性剂、磷酸二氢铵、氯化钠、硅油、丝肽粉，按照重量百分比组成为淀粉酶、纤维素酶，非离子表面活性剂、磷酸二氢铵、氯化钠、硅油、丝肽粉分别为20-30%，30-40%，1-5%，1-5%，2-8%，10-20%，5-10%，将牛仔布放入退浆设备中，加入牛仔布重量25-30倍的水，然后加入软化退浆液，缓慢升温至50-60℃，处理30-40min，然后加入3-5g/L蛋白酶，在50-60℃下处理30-40min，再用清水清洗5-10min。
步骤（2）将牛仔布脱水后置于水洗机中，水洗机中的液量为牛仔布重量的20-25倍，其中加入1-2g/L粗粒酶制剂、3-8wt%十甲基环五硅氧烷和5-10wt%活性炭，水洗机中水洗30-60min。
步骤（3）所述水洗酵素处理是采用0.5-1g/L的绿光漆酶，0.5-1g/L的中性纤维素酶，冰醋酸0.1-0.2g/L，0.2-0.5g/L十甲基环五硅氧烷和0.5-1g/L活性炭，将牛仔布置于水洗机中，开蒸汽升温至50-60℃，然后关闭蒸汽，加入绿光漆酶，中性纤维素酶，冰醋酸十甲基环五硅氧烷和活性炭，然后加入牛仔布重量20-25倍的水，搅拌20-30min，然后脱水，升温至85-90℃，40min，然后冷却至室温。
所述步骤（3）的清洗是将牛仔布置于水洗机中，水洗机中的液量为牛仔布重量的20-25倍，升温至50-60℃，水洗10min，然后脱水，放入室温清水，再洗涤10min。
所述猫须处理包括捏摺、树脂定型和喷砂喷药三道工序，首先在室温浸渍10-12wt%的改性2D树脂、3-5wt%的氯化镁、1-5wt%的氨基硅油和2-4%三乙醇胺，浴比1：10，室温浸渍10min，然后脱水烘干，带液率为70%，然后进一步烘燥至带液率为10-15%，然后手工捏摺，放入焙烘箱中120-180℃下焙烘1-5分钟，冷却后在捏摺处喷金刚砂，然后摩擦褪色，再喷2-3%高锰酸钾进一步剥色，形成立体猫须，然后中和处理。
本发明的有益效果：
1、对牛仔面料进行退浆软化水洗，使牛仔面料在后续做旧工艺中受力均匀，不至于出现做旧不均匀的情况，而且采取生物酶退浆，并在其中配合使用硅油、丝肽粉，提高了面料的软化程度并意外发现丝肽粉的加入降低了面料的损伤；
2、水洗采用粗粒酶制剂，十甲基环五硅氧烷和活性炭，后二者可以吸附包容洗涤下来的纤维碎屑等，提高水洗效果；
3、水洗酵素处理中绿光漆酶和中性纤维素酶，同时十甲基环五硅氧烷和活性炭配合生物酶进行处理，十甲基环五硅氧烷和活性炭的特殊结构，使其将洗涤下来的杂质尽快吸附和分散，不返沾，效果非常明显。
加工处理后，牛仔面料表面柔和、细腻，面料磨损效果真实，且整个操作工艺不降低面料的强度，在柔化的情况下进行做旧，做旧效果均匀。
本申请说明书、说明书摘要、权利要求书中出现的浓度，比值，wt%为相对于织物的重量百分比，如无特殊说明，其余为质量浓度，百分比为重量百分比。
具体实施方式
以下结合具体实施例对本发明的技术方案进行更详尽的介绍，但是本发明的保护范围并不局限于此。
实施例1：
牛仔布是采用70-80%棉，5-10%的聚氨酯弹性纤维以及10-25%的涤纶作为经纱，7.5Ｓ的棉毛混纺纱作纬纱，织成斜纹牛仔坯布，织物规格：140×90根/寸，1/3斜纹，经纱和纬纱都经过淀粉上浆处理，浆料中各组分的重量百分比为淀粉60%、PVA 20%，柔软剂2%、聚丙烯酸25%、蜡片3%，上浆的工艺条件为上浆槽温度为90℃，上浆率10%，压浆辊压力位25kN，车速20m/min。
采用软化退浆液进行软化退浆处理，所述软化退浆液包括淀粉酶、纤维素酶，非离子表面活性剂、磷酸二氢铵、氯化钠、硅油、丝肽粉，按照重量百分比组成为淀粉酶、纤维素酶，非离子表面活性剂、磷酸二氢铵、氯化钠、硅油、丝肽粉分别为20%，40%，2%，5%，8%，15%，10%，将牛仔布放入退浆设备中，加入牛仔布重量30倍的水，然后加入软化退浆液，缓慢升温至50℃，处理40min，然后加入5g/L蛋白酶，在50℃下处理40min，再用清水清洗10min。
将牛仔布脱水后置于水洗机中，水洗机中的液量为牛仔布重量的20倍，其中加入2g/L粗粒酶制剂、8wt%十甲基环五硅氧烷和10wt%活性炭，水洗机中水洗30min。
采用1g/L的绿光漆酶，0.5g/L的中性纤维素酶，冰醋酸0.1g/L， 0.5g/L十甲基环五硅氧烷和1g/L活性炭，将牛仔布置于水洗机中，开蒸汽升温至50℃，然后关闭蒸汽，加入绿光漆酶，中性纤维素酶，冰醋酸十甲基环五硅氧烷和活性炭，然后加入牛仔布重量20倍的水，搅拌20min，然后脱水，升温至85℃，40min，然后冷却至室温。
清洗是将牛仔布置于水洗机中，水洗机中的液量为牛仔布重量的20倍，升温至50℃，水洗10min，然后脱水，放入室温清水，再洗涤10min。
所述猫须处理包括捏摺、树脂定型和喷砂喷药三道工序，首先在室温浸渍12wt%的改性2D树脂、3wt%的氯化镁、1wt%的氨基硅油和4%三乙醇胺，浴比1：10，室温浸渍10min，然后脱水烘干，带液率为70%，然后进一步烘燥至带液率为15%，然后手工捏摺，放入焙烘箱中180℃下焙烘1分钟，冷却后在捏摺处喷金刚砂，然后摩擦褪色，再喷2%高锰酸钾进一步剥色，形成立体猫须，然后中和处理。
实施例2：
牛仔布是采用70-80%棉，5-10%的聚氨酯弹性纤维以及10-25%的涤纶作为经纱，7.5Ｓ的棉毛混纺纱作纬纱，织成斜纹牛仔坯布，织物规格：140×90根/寸，1/3斜纹，经纱和纬纱都经过淀粉上浆处理，浆料中各组分的重量百分比为淀粉50%、PVA 20%，柔软剂2%、聚丙烯酸27%、蜡片1%，上浆的工艺条件为上浆槽温度为98℃，上浆率12%，压浆辊压力位25kN，车速20m/min。
步骤（1）采用软化退浆液进行软化退浆处理，所述软化退浆液包括淀粉酶、纤维素酶，非离子表面活性剂、磷酸二氢铵、氯化钠、硅油、丝肽粉，按照重量百分比组成为淀粉酶、纤维素酶，非离子表面活性剂、磷酸二氢铵、氯化钠、硅油、丝肽粉分别为30%，40%，5%，5%，5%，10%，5%，将牛仔布放入退浆设备中，加入牛仔布重量30倍的水，然后加入软化退浆液，缓慢升温至50℃，处理40min，然后加入5g/L蛋白酶，在60℃下处理30min，再用清水清洗5min。
步骤（2）将牛仔布脱水后置于水洗机中，水洗机中的液量为牛仔布重量的25倍，其中加入2g/L粗粒酶制剂、3wt%十甲基环五硅氧烷和5wt%活性炭，水洗机中水洗60min。
步骤（3）所述水洗酵素处理是采用0.5-1g/L的绿光漆酶，0.5-1g/L的中性纤维素酶，冰醋酸0.2g/L，0.2g/L十甲基环五硅氧烷和0.5g/L活性炭，将牛仔布置于水洗机中，开蒸汽升温至50℃，然后关闭蒸汽，加入绿光漆酶，中性纤维素酶，冰醋酸十甲基环五硅氧烷和活性炭，然后加入牛仔布重量20倍的水，搅拌20min，然后脱水，升温至85℃，40min，然后冷却至室温。
所述步骤（3）的清洗是将牛仔布置于水洗机中，水洗机中的液量为牛仔布重量的20倍，升温至60℃，水洗10min，然后脱水，放入室温清水，再洗涤10min。
所述猫须处理包括捏摺、树脂定型和喷砂喷药三道工序，首先在室温浸渍10wt%的改性2D树脂、3wt%的氯化镁、5wt%的氨基硅油和4%三乙醇胺，浴比1：10，室温浸渍10min，然后脱水烘干，带液率为70%，然后进一步烘燥至带液率为15%，然后手工捏摺，放入焙烘箱中120℃下焙烘5分钟，冷却后在捏摺处喷金刚砂，然后摩擦褪色，再喷2-3%高锰酸钾进一步剥色，形成立体猫须，然后中和处理。
以上所述为本发明的优选实施方式，应当指出，对于本技术领域的普技术人员来说，在不脱离本发明原理的前提下，还可以做出改进和变型，这些改进和变型也应视为本发明的保护范围。

Claims (1)

1.一种使牛仔布呈现陈旧视觉效果的加工方法，其特征在于包括以下步骤：（１）将牛仔布进行软化退浆处理；（2）将牛仔布脱水取出，然后置于水洗机中；（3）对牛仔布进行水洗酵素处理；（4）水洗酵素处理后对牛仔布进行清洗；（5）清洗处理后对牛仔布进行猫须处理；（6）猫须处理后对牛仔布进行订针处理和磨破处理；（7）磨破处理后对牛仔布依序进行清洗、脱水、烘干、整烫定型、挂架烘焙即得成品牛仔布；
所述牛仔布是采用70-80%棉，5-10%的聚氨酯弹性纤维以及10-25%的涤纶作为经纱，7.5Ｓ的棉毛混纺纱作纬纱，织成斜纹牛仔坯布，织物规格：140×90根/寸，1/3斜纹，经纱和纬纱都经过淀粉上浆处理，浆料中各组分的重量百分比为淀粉50-60%、PVA 20-30%，柔软剂2-5%、聚丙烯酸25-40%、蜡片1-3%，上浆的工艺条件为上浆槽温度为90-98℃，上浆率10-12%，压浆辊压力位25-30kN，车速20-30m/min；
步骤（1）采用软化退浆液进行软化退浆处理，所述软化退浆液包括淀粉酶、纤维素酶、非离子表面活性剂、磷酸二氢铵、氯化钠、硅油、丝肽粉，按照重量百分比组成为淀粉酶、纤维素酶，非离子表面活性剂、磷酸二氢铵、氯化钠、硅油、丝肽粉分别为20-30%，30-40%，1-5%，1-5%，2-8%，10-20%，5-10%，将牛仔布放入退浆设备中，加入牛仔布重量25-30倍的水，然后加入软化退浆液，缓慢升温至50-60℃，处理30-40min，然后加入3-5g/L蛋白酶，在50-60℃下处理30-40min，再用清水清洗5-10min；
步骤（2）将牛仔布脱水后置于水洗机中，水洗机中的液量为牛仔布重量的20-25倍，其中加入1-2g/L粗粒酶制剂、3-8wt%十甲基环五硅氧烷和5-10wt%活性炭，水洗机中水洗30-60min。
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CN102808329A (zh) * 2011-06-02 2012-12-05 上海欧迪芬内衣精品股份有限公司 彩棉纤维的制备方法
CN102605583A (zh) * 2012-03-27 2012-07-25 太仓棨淂服装有限公司 一种使牛仔布呈现陈旧视觉效果的加工方法
CN103126143A (zh) * 2013-03-14 2013-06-05 江苏悦达纺织集团有限公司 珍珠纤维衬衫面料及其制备方法
CN104131390A (zh) * 2014-06-06 2014-11-05 南通纺科纺织科技有限公司 一种竹节效果牛仔面料

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