CN105568658B - 陈旧视觉效果牛仔布 - Google Patents

陈旧视觉效果牛仔布 Download PDF

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CN105568658B
CN105568658B CN201610139055.XA CN201610139055A CN105568658B CN 105568658 B CN105568658 B CN 105568658B CN 201610139055 A CN201610139055 A CN 201610139055A CN 105568658 B CN105568658 B CN 105568658B
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denim
processing
desizing
softening
rinsing machine
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CN105568658A (zh
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马汉生
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Foshan jade Textile Co. Ltd.
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Abstract

一种陈旧视觉效果牛仔布,其特征在于:其加工方法包括以下几个步骤:(1)将牛仔布进行退浆软化处理;(2)将牛仔布脱水取出,然后置于水洗机中;(3)对牛仔布进行水洗酵素处理;(4)水洗酵素处理后对牛仔布进行清洗;(5)清洗处理后对牛仔布进行猫须处理;(6)猫须处理后对牛仔布进行订针处理和磨破处理;(7)磨破处理后对牛仔布依序进行清洗、脱水、烘干、整烫定型、挂架烘焙即得成品牛仔布。

Description

陈旧视觉效果牛仔布
[0001]本申请是申请号为2014107032380,发明名称为一种使牛仔布呈现陈旧视觉效果 的加工方法,申请日为2014年11月29日的发明专利申请的分案申请。
技术领域
[0002]本发明涉及一种陈旧视觉效果牛仔布及其制造方法。
背景技术
[0003]牛仔面料在19世纪即被制成具有布深厚重、硬挺、坚軔耐磨的牛仔裤,从而深受蓝 领阶层的喜爱,随后经历了服装款式设计时尚化、面料品质组织结构多样化、加工工艺多元 组合化、布面效果功能系列化、成衣洗水工艺艺术化等方面的演变与技术创新,牛仔面料日 益满足率人们各种个性化需求,成为老少皆宜的全球性服装商品。
[0004] 2〇世纪70年代以来,牛仔布在我国以相当快的速度向前发展,据不完全统计,中国 每年生产的牛仔布已达到20多亿米,占世界1/4,牛仔服装也在27亿件以上,可以说,我过已 成为国际上牛仔布重要的生产国。随着市场的发展,以前常规牛仔布一统天下的时代早己 过去,现在各种颜色的牛仔布竞相争宠,传统的牛仔是由靛蓝染色,颜色较为深厚,为了迎 合各方面的需求,做旧型牛仔也受到了越来越多人的喜爱,通常采取特定的洗水工艺即可 达到一定的做旧效果,但是目前各种做旧洗水工艺参差不齐,各种工艺条件选择不当,容易 造成做旧效果不均匀或者降低牛仔布面料强度或容易褪色等问题。市场上呈现陈旧视觉效 果的牛仔布褪色不均匀,并且只是牛仔布表层褪色,还能看到牛仔布纤维的物理损伤,价格 尚。
发明内容
[0005]发明目的:本发明的目的是为了解决现有技术的不足,提供一种陈旧视觉牛仔布 及使牛仔布呈现陈旧视觉效果的加工方法,使牛仔布呈现一种长年穿着下来的陈旧的风 格、时尚的感觉,该工艺方法使牛仔布褪色均匀,牛仔布的纤维不受到物理损伤,并且成本 低。
[0006]技术方案:为了实现以上目的,本发明所述的一种陈旧视觉效果牛仔布,其加工方 法包括以下几个步骤::(1)将牛仔布进行退浆软化处理;(2)将牛仔布脱水取出,然后置于 水洗机中;(3)对牛仔布进行水洗酵素处理;(4)水洗酵素处理后对牛仔布进行清洗;(5)清 洗处理后对牛仔布进行猫须处理;(6)猫须处理后对牛仔布进行订针处理和磨破处理;(7) 磨破处理后对牛仔布依序进行清洗、脱水、烘干、整烫定型、挂架烘焙即得成品牛仔布。
[0007]所述牛仔布是采用70-80%棉,5-10%的聚氨酯弹性纤维以及10-25%的涤纶作为经 纱,7 • 5 S的棉毛混纺纱作纬纱,织成斜纹牛仔坯布,织物规格:140 X 90根/寸,1/3斜纹,经 纱和纬纱都经过淀粉上浆处理,浆料中各组分的重量百分比为淀粉50-60%、PVA 20-30%,柔 软剂2-5%、聚丙烯酸25-40%、蜡片1-3%,上浆的工艺条件为上浆槽温度为90-98。(3,上浆率 10-12%,压浆辊压力位25-30kN,车速20-30m/min。
[0008]步骤(1)米用软化退衆液进行软化退衆处理,所述软化退衆液包括淀粉酶、纤维素 酶,非离子表面活性剂、磷酸二氢铵、氯化钠、硅油、丝肽粉,按照重量百分比组成为淀粉酶、 纤维素酶,非离子表面活性剂、磷酸二氢铵、氯化钠、硅油、丝肽粉分别为20-30%,30-40%,1-5%,1-5%,2-8%,10-20%,5-10%,将牛仔布放入退菜设备中,加入牛仔布重量25-30倍的水,然 后加入软化退浆液,缓慢升温至50-60°C,处理30-40min,然后加入3-5g/L蛋白酶,在50-60 °C下处理3〇_4〇min,再用清水清洗5-10min。
[0009]步骤(2)将牛仔布脱水后置于水洗机中,水洗机中的液量为牛仔布重量的20一25 倍,其中加入1-2g/L粗粒酶制剂、3-8wt%十甲基环五硅氧烷和5-10wt%活性炭,水洗机中水 洗30-60min。
[0010]步骤(3)所述水洗酵素处理是采用0 • 5-lg/L的绿光漆酶,0.5-lg/L的中性纤维素 酶,冰醋酸0 • 1-0 • 2g/L,0 • 2-0 • 5g/L十甲基环五硅氧烷和0 • 5-lg/L活性炭,将牛仔布置于水 洗机中,开蒸汽升温至5〇-eo°c,然后关闭蒸汽,加入绿光漆酶,中性纤维素酶,冰醋酸十甲 基环五硅氧烷和活性炭,然后加入牛仔布重量20-25倍的水,搅拌20-30min,然后脱水,升温 至85-90°C,40min,然后冷却至室温。
[0011]所述步骤(3)的清洗是将牛仔布置于水洗机中,水洗机中的液量为牛仔布重量的 20-25倍,升温至50-60°C,水洗lOmin,然后脱水,放入室温清水,再洗涤1 〇min。
[0012]所述猫须处理包括捏摺、树脂定型和喷砂喷药三道工序,首先在室温浸渍10-12wt%的改性2D树脂、3-5wt%的氯化镁、:L-5wt%的氨基硅油和2-4%三乙醇胺,浴比1: 1〇,室温 浸渍lOmin,然后脱水烘干,带液率为70%,然后进一步烘燥至带液率为1〇-15%,然后手工捏 摺,放入焙烘箱中120-180°C下焙烘1-5分钟,冷却后在捏摺处喷金刚砂,然后摩擦褪色,再 喷2-3%高锰酸钾进一步剥色,形成立体猫须,然后中和处理。
[0013]本发明的有益效果:
[0014] 1、对牛仔面料进行退浆软化水洗,使牛仔面料在后续做旧工艺中受力均匀,不至 于出现做旧不均匀的情况,而且采取生物酶退浆,并在其中配合使用硅油、丝肽粉,提高了 面料的软化程度并意外发现丝肽粉的加入降低了面料的损伤;
[0015] 2、水洗采用粗粒酶制剂,十甲基环五硅氧烷和活性炭,后二者可以吸附包容洗涤 下来的纤维碎屑等,提高水洗效果;
[0016] 3、水洗酵素处理中绿光漆酶和中性纤维素酶,同时十甲基环五硅氧烷和活性炭配 合生物酶进行处理,十甲基环五硅氧烷和活性炭的特殊结构,使其将洗涤下来的杂质尽快 吸附和分散,不返沾,效果非常明显。
[0017]加工处理后,牛仔面料表面柔和、细腻,面料磨损效果真实,且整个操作工艺不降 低面料的强度,在柔化的情况下进行做旧,做旧效果均匀。
[0018] 本申请说明书、说明书摘要、权利要求书中出现的浓度,比值,wt%为相对于织物的 重量百分比,如无特殊说明,其余为质量浓度,百分比为重量百分比。
具体实施方式
[0019]以下结合具体实施例对本发明的技术方案进行更详尽的介绍,但是本发明的保护 范围并不局限于此。
[0020] 实施例1: 10021]牛仔布是采用7〇_8〇%棉,5_1〇%的聚氨酯弹性纤维以及10-25%的涤纶作为经纱, 7 • 5 S的棉毛混纺纱作纬纱,织成斜纹牛仔坯布,织物规格:14〇 x 90根/寸,1/3斜纹,经纱和 炜纱都经过淀粉上浆处理,浆料中各组分的重量百分比为淀粉60%、PVA 20%,柔软剂2%、聚 丙烯酸25%、蜡片3%,上浆的工艺条件为上浆槽温度为9(TC,上浆率10%,压浆辊压力位25kN, 车速 20m/tnin。
[0022]采用软化退浆液进行软化退浆处理,所述软化退浆液包括淀粉酶、纤维素酶,非离 子表面活性剂、磷酸二氢铵、氯化钠、硅油、丝肽粉,按照重量百分比组成为淀粉酶、纤维素 酶,非离子表面活性剂、磷酸二氢铵、氯化钠、硅油、丝肽粉分别为20%,40%,2%,5%,8%,15%, 10%,将牛仔布放入退浆设备中,加入牛仔布重量30倍的水,然后加入软化退浆液,缓慢升温 至50°C,处理40min,然后加入5g/L蛋白酶,在50X:下处理40min,再用清水清洗lOmin。
[0023] 将牛仔布脱水后置于水洗机中,水洗机中的液量为牛仔布重量的20倍,其中加入 2g/L粗粒酶制剂、8wt%十甲基环五娃氧烧和1 〇wt%活性炭,水洗机中水洗30mi n。
[0024] 采用lg/L的绿光漆酶,0.5g/L的中性纤维素酶,冰醋酸〇.lg/L,0.5g/L十甲基环 五硅氧烷和lg/L活性炭,将牛仔布置于水洗机中,开蒸汽升温至5(TC,然后关闭蒸汽,加入 绿光漆酶,中性纤维素酶,冰醋酸十甲基环五硅氧烷和活性炭,然后加入牛仔布重量20倍的 水,搅拌20min,然后脱水,升温至85°C,40min,然后冷却至室温。
[0025] 清洗是将牛仔布置于水洗机中,水洗机中的液量为牛仔布重量的20倍,升温至50 °C,水洗lOmin,然后脱水,放入室温清水,再洗涤i〇min。
[0026] 所述猫须处理包括捏摺、树脂定型和喷砂喷药三道工序,首先在室温浸溃12wt%的 改性2D树脂、3wt%的氯化镁、lwt%的氨基硅油和4%三乙醇胺,浴比1:10,室温浸渍l〇min,然 后脱水烘干,带液率为70%,然后进一步烘燥至带液率为15%,然后手工捏摺,放入焙烘箱中 180°C下焙烘1分钟,冷却后在捏摺处喷金刚砂,然后摩擦褪色,再喷2%高锰酸钾进一步剥 色,形成立体猫须,然后中和处理。 _7]实施例2:
[0028] 牛仔布是采用70-80%棉,5-10%的聚氨酯弹性纤维以及10-25%的涤纶作为经纱, 7 • 5 S的棉毛混纺纱作纬纱,织成斜纹牛仔坯布,织物规格:14〇 x 9〇根/寸,丨/3斜纹,经纱和 讳纱都经过淀粉上浆处理,浆料中各组分的重量百分比为淀粉50%、PVA 20%,柔软剂2%、聚 丙烯酸27%、蜡片1%,上浆的工艺条件为上浆槽温度为98。〇,上浆率12%,压浆辊压力位25kN, 车速 20m/miru
[0029] 步骤(1)采用软化退浆液进行软化退浆处理,所述软化退浆液包括淀粉酶、纤维素 酶,非离子表面活性剂、磷酸二氢铵、氯化钠、硅油、丝肽粉,按照重量百分比组成为淀粉酶、 纤维素酶,非离子表面活性剂、磷酸二氢铵、氯化钠、娃油、丝肽粉分别为30%,40%,5%,5%, 5%,10%,5%,将牛仔布放入退浆设备中,加入牛仔布重量30倍的水,然后加入软化退浆液,缓 慢升温至50°C,处理40min,然后加入5g/L蛋白酶,在60。(:下处理30min,再用清水清洗5min。 [0030]步骤(2)将牛仔布脱水后置于水洗机中,水洗机中的液量为牛仔布重量的25倍,其 中加入2g/L粗粒酶制剂、3wt%十甲基环五娃氧焼和5wt%活性炭,水洗机中水洗60min。
[0031]步骤(3)所述水洗酵素处理是采用〇 •5-lg/L的绿光漆酶,0 • 5-lg/L的中性纤维素 ^,冰醋酸0 • 2g/L,0 • 2g/L十甲基环五硅氧烷和〇 • 5g/L活性炭,将牛仔布置于水洗机中,开 蒸汽升温至50。(:,然后关闭蒸汽,加入绿光漆酶,中性纤维素酶,冰醋酸十甲基环五硅氧烷 和活性炭,然后加入牛仔布重量20倍的水,搅拌20min,然后脱水,升温至85°C,4〇min姨后 冷却至室温。
[0M2]所述步骤(3)的清洗是将牛仔布置于水洗机中,水洗机中的液量为牛仔布重量的 20倍,升温至60°C,水洗lOmin,然后脱水,放入室温清水,再洗.10min。
[OO33]所述猫须处理包括捏摺、树脂定型和喷砂喷药三道工序,首先在室温浸溃1〇的%的 改性2D树脂、3wt%的氯化镁、5wt%的氨基硅油和4%三乙醇胺,浴比1:10,室温浸渍1〇111111,然 后脱水烘干,带液率为70%,然后进一步烘燥至带液率为15%,然后手工捏摺,放入焙烘箱中' 120 °C下焙烘5分钟,冷却后在捏摺处喷金刚砂,然后摩擦褪色,再喷2-3%高锰酸钾进一步剥 色,形成立体猫须,然后中和处理。
[0034]以上所述为本发明的优选实施方式,应当指出,对于本技术领域的普技术人员来 说,在不脱离本发明原理的前提下,还可以做出改进和变型,这些改进和变型也应视为本发 明的保护范围。

Claims (1)

1.一种陈旧视觉效果牛仔布,所述牛仔布是采用70-80%棉,5-10%的聚氨酯弹性纤维以 及10-25%的涤给作为经纱,7.5 S的棉毛混纺纱作纬纱,织成斜纹牛仔坯布,织物规格:140 X90根/寸,1/3斜纹,经纱和纬纱都经过淀粉上浆处理,浆料中各组分的重量百分比为淀粉 5〇-6〇%、PVA 2〇_3〇%,柔软剂2-5%、聚丙烯酸25_4〇%、蜡片丨-3%,上浆的工艺条件为上浆槽温 度为90-98°C,上浆率10-12%,压浆辊压力位25-30kN,车速2〇_30m/min;其特征在于: 其加工方法包括以下几个步骤:(1)将牛仔布进行退浆软化处理;(2)将牛仔布脱水取 出,然后置于水洗机中;(3)对牛仔布进行水洗酵素处理;(4)水洗酵素处理后对牛仔布进行 清洗;(5)清洗处理后对牛仔布进行猫须处理;(6)猫须处理后对牛仔布进行订针处理和磨 破处理;(7)磨破处理后对牛仔布依序进行清洗、脱水、烘千、整烫定型、挂架烘焙即得成品 牛仔布; ^步骤(1)采用软化退浆液进行软化退浆处理,所述软化退浆液包括淀粉酶、纤维素酶, 非离子表面活性剂、磷酸二氢铵、氯化钠、硅油、丝肽粉,按照重量百分比组成为淀粉酶、纤 维素酶,非离子表面活性剂、磷酸二氢铵、氯化钠、硅油、丝肽粉分别为20-30%,30-40%,1-5%,1 -5%,2-8%,10-20%,5-10%,将牛仔布放入退楽设备中,加入牛仔布重量25-30倍的水,然 后加入软化退衆液,缓慢升温至50-60°C,处理3〇-40min,然后加入3-5g/L蛋白酶,在50-60 °C下处理30-40min,再用清水清洗5-10min; 步骤(2)将牛仔布脱水后置于水洗机中,水洗机中的液量为牛仔布重量的2〇—25倍,其 中加入l-2g/L粗粒酶制剂、3-8wt%十甲基环五娃氧烧和5-10wt%活性炭,7jC洗机中水洗30- 60min〇
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