CN101922069B - Weaving process of heating fiber raw material-containing sweater - Google Patents

Weaving process of heating fiber raw material-containing sweater Download PDF

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Publication number
CN101922069B
CN101922069B CN2010102215762A CN201010221576A CN101922069B CN 101922069 B CN101922069 B CN 101922069B CN 2010102215762 A CN2010102215762 A CN 2010102215762A CN 201010221576 A CN201010221576 A CN 201010221576A CN 101922069 B CN101922069 B CN 101922069B
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sweater
raw material
fiber
yarn
blended
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CN101922069A (en
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陈建强
周婉
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Jiangyin Xiangfei Textile Technology Co., Ltd
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Jiangyin Xiangfei Fashion Co Ltd
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Abstract

The invention discloses a weaving process for a sweater containing a heating fiber-containing raw material, comprising: weaving two A blended yarns and three B blended yarns into the sweater raw material by using a double-yarn double-shuttle feeding method, wherein the A blended yarns are used for weaving an inner layer of the sweater, the B blended yarns are used for weaving a surface layer of the sweater, the A blended yarns are blended by heating fiber, viscose fiber and anti-pilling acrylic fiber, the B blended yarns are blended by modal fiber and tencel fiber. The A blended yarns comprise 3%-8% of heating fiber, 30%-50% of viscose fiber and 50%-60% of anti-pilling acrylic fiber. The use of the raw material can increase the textile variety containing the heating fiber and the application range, simplify the weaving process of the heating fiber and reduce the product cost, and make the application of the textile with the heat function more popular.

Description

A kind of sweater weaving that contains the heat generating fiber raw material
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of basketry that is used to weave sweater, be specifically related to a kind of sweater weaving that contains the heat generating fiber raw material.
Background technology
Warming is the important indicator of water clothes comfortableness; Traditional heating method is normally controlled the heat leakage that conduction, convection current, radiation caused of heat; Promptly use thick fabric or add the heat insulating material formed of cotton-wool class to be incubated the also employing metal coating raw material that has.It is increasingly high that yet people in modern requires the comfortableness of clothes, functional and aesthetic property, and traditional heat insulating material formed general volume ratio is more too fat to move, is not easy to motion and lacks aesthetic feeling again; For the people of operation under the extreme low temperature environment, the passive warming functional requirement that can not satisfy clothes well, therefore actively the heat insulating material formed exploitation of heat production formula is significant.Heat generating fiber (EKS) is with its granular, softnessization, and multi-functional characteristic such as heating effect is good has caused the concern of textile limit, and the warming effect of its peculiar heating makes it become the pith of following fashion trend.Therefore research and develop heat generating fiber and the correlation function product has good prospect.The raw material that contains heat generating fiber in the prior art is main with knitting weft-knitted product mainly; Be not exploited as yet as sweater knitted product, therefore, heat generating fiber be applied to sweater knitted; Realizing its functionalization, is that those skilled in the art have a problem to be solved.
Summary of the invention
The objective of the invention is to overcome defective of the prior art; A kind of weaving that contains the heat generating fiber sweater raw material is provided; This raw material can increase the kind and the range of application of the fabric that contains heat generating fiber; Thereby the weaving that makes heat generating fiber is simplified the cost that reduces product, makes the application with heating function textiles more popular.
For realizing above-mentioned purpose, the technical scheme that the present invention adopts is a kind of sweater weaving that contains the heat generating fiber raw material, it is characterized in that said weaving is: adopt the two shuttle feeding method braidings of two yarns to form sweater raw material two A blended yarns and three B blended yarns; Wherein the A blending is used for the internal layer of yarn weaving sweater, and the B blended yarn is used to weave the superficial layer of sweater, and said A blended yarn is formed by heat generating fiber, viscose and anti-pilling acrylic fiber blending, and said B blended yarn is by Modal fibre and silk fiber blended forming.
In order to control the cost of sweater raw material effectively; Make simultaneously heat generating fiber give play to maximum efficient again, the people is worn feel comfortable, preferable technical scheme is; In said A blended yarn, contain 3%~8% heat generating fiber; Contain 30%~50% viscose, contain 50%~60% anti-pilling acrylic fiber, above-mentioned % is the % of fiber number.
In order to control the cost of sweater raw material effectively; Simultaneously be that heat generating fiber has been given play to maximum efficient, the people worn feel comfortable that preferable technical scheme also has again; The horizontal density of said sweater raw material is 78 stringers/10cm, and the vertical density of said sweater raw material is 59 lines/10cm.
For the cost of control control sweater raw material effectively, be again simultaneously that heat generating fiber has been given play to maximum efficient, the people is worn feel comfortable, preferable technical scheme also has, and the grammes per square metre of said sweater raw material is: 280 grams/square metre.
In order to make sweater raw material should demonstrate fully the excellent thermal property of final products; Make product have comfortableness and skin-friendly etc. preferably again; Preferable technical scheme also has; The fineness index of said A blended yarn and B blended yarn is 18.5 Tekes, and wherein the fineness index of anti-pilling acrylic fiber in the A blended yarn and viscose is 0.1 Tekes.
In order to make sweater raw material should demonstrate fully the excellent thermal property of final products; Make product have comfortableness and skin-friendly etc. preferably again; Preferable technical scheme also has, and the strand twist of said A blended yarn is 410 sth. made by twisting/rice, and the strand twist of said B blended yarn is 320 sth. made by twisting/rice.
In order to make sweater raw material should demonstrate fully the excellent thermal property of final products; Make product have comfortableness and skin-friendly etc. preferably again; Preferable technical scheme also has; In the two shuttle feeding methods of described pair of yarn, adopted the straight-bar machines of 12 pins to weave, selected Yarn feed device for use in the described pair of two shuttle feeding methods of yarn, said Yarn feed device is provided with the folder spring.
Advantage of the present invention and beneficial effect are: the product that adopts this sweater weaving that contains heat generating fiber blending raw material to be compiled into has light weight, heat-preserving function; The steam that this raw material distributes through the absorption human body reaches warming effect thereby the underwear material temperature is raise; After simultaneously material temperature raise, having accelerated the people that distribute of steam again, to wear after sensation dry and comfortable more comfortable.Continue and stronger moisture pick-up properties because heat generating fiber itself has, so the heating heat-preserving function that utilizes its underwear raw material of processing to have durability, raw material is through washing more than 50 times, and its thermal property does not obviously descend.Have permanently effective heating simultaneously, do not have that specific (special) requirements is not affected by environment, color and luster is complete, quality is firm, sweat proof corrosion-resistant characteristic, comfortable and easy to wear, the function admirable of such sweater washing the Ji condition.
The specific embodiment
Below in conjunction with embodiment, specific embodiments of the invention further describes.Following examples only are used for technical scheme of the present invention more clearly is described, and can not limit protection scope of the present invention with this.
Embodiment 1
A kind of sweater weaving that contains the heat generating fiber raw material, this weaving is: adopt the two shuttle feeding method braidings of two yarns to form sweater raw material two A blended yarns and three B blended yarns; Wherein the A blending is used for the internal layer of yarn weaving sweater, and the B blended yarn is used to weave the superficial layer of sweater, and said A blended yarn is formed by heat generating fiber, viscose and anti-pilling acrylic fiber blending, and said B blended yarn is by Modal fibre and silk fiber blended forming.
Embodiment 2
On the basis of embodiment 1,, make heat generating fiber give play to maximum efficient simultaneously again in order to control the cost of sweater raw material effectively; The people is worn feel comfortable, preferred embodiment is in the A blended yarn, to contain 5% heat generating fiber; Contain 40% viscose; Contain 55% anti-pilling acrylic fiber, above-mentioned % is the % of fiber number (radical), and all the other and embodiment 1 are identical.
Embodiment 3
On the basis of embodiment 2; In order to control the cost of sweater raw material effectively, be again simultaneously that heat generating fiber has been given play to maximum efficient, the people is worn feel comfortable; Preferred embodiment also has; The horizontal density of said sweater raw material is 78 stringers/10cm, and the vertical density of said sweater raw material is 59 lines/10cm, and all the other and embodiment 2 are identical.
Embodiment 4
On the basis of embodiment 3; In order to control the cost of sweater raw material effectively; Simultaneously be that heat generating fiber has been given play to maximum efficient, the people worn feel comfortable that preferred embodiment also has again; The grammes per square metre of said sweater raw material is: 280 grams/square metre, all the other and embodiment 2 are identical.
Embodiment 5
On the basis of embodiment 1; In order to make sweater raw material should demonstrate fully the excellent thermal property of final products; Make product have comfortableness and skin-friendly etc. preferably again; The fineness index of said A blended yarn and B blended yarn is 18.5 Tekes, and wherein the fineness index of anti-pilling acrylic fiber in the A blended yarn and viscose is 0.1 Tekes.In order to make sweater raw material should demonstrate fully the excellent thermal property of final products, make product have comfortableness and skin-friendly etc. preferably again, the strand twist of said A blended yarn is 410 sth. made by twisting/rice, the strand twist of said B blended yarn is 320 sth. made by twisting/rice.In order to make sweater raw material should demonstrate fully the excellent thermal property of final products; Make product have comfortableness and skin-friendly etc. preferably again; In the two shuttle feeding methods of described pair of yarn, adopted the straight-bar machines of 12 pins to weave; Selected Yarn feed device for use in the described pair of two shuttle feeding methods of yarn, said Yarn feed device is provided with the folder spring.
The technological process of production of this sweater raw material:
Openpore yarn → dyeing → rewinding → knit sheet → running-on → flatcar → hand seam → washing → oven dry → whole scalding → packing → warehouse-in
The development process of this invention comprises
1, the selection of the selection of fiber and yarn blending ratio
The selection of raw material and proportioning have been passed through a large amount of contrast experiments, its objective is that should demonstrate fully the excellent thermal property of final products makes product have comfortableness and skin-friendly etc. preferably again.
Select heat generating fiber, anti-pilling acrylic fiber, 3 kinds of fiber blend yarns of common viscose glue and model/tencel blended yarn for use; Wherein with the three 18.5tex quality that fiber had of 1000 meters length (gram numbers) model/tencel blended yarn, with 320 sth. made by twisting/rice and twist with the fingers resultant yarn, two 18.5tex55% acrylic fibers/40% viscose glue/5% heat generating fiber blended yarns; With 410 sth. made by twisting/rice and twist with the fingers resultant yarn; Use raw material as sweater, these two kinds of yarns carry out ready-made clothes and weave with the two organization methods that tat of two yarns on loom, and it is 0.2tex (2.0D) that its purpose has the line density of the heat generating fiber that following 3 aspect: a. select for use; General fiber is thick; But its brute force is lower, is Antipilling nitrilon and the common viscose glue collocation of 0.1tex (1.0D) so select line density for use, and the bar that had so both guaranteed to spin the ramuscule yarn is dried and powerful; Solved the ANTIPILLING problem of raw material again, the raw material of producing simultaneously also has the feel as the wool fabric.B. with model/tencel blended yarn doubling, do the surface of sweater and use yarn, improved the feel and the skin-friendly of raw material greatly.C. the blending technology of many kinds of fibers itself has higher scientific and technological content, can reduce production cost to a certain extent again.
Each component fibre content: because the molecular structure decision; The dyeing ability of heat generating fiber own is relatively poor; Therefore and brute force is lower, and fiber can not purely spin, and when blending, needs better powerful or other less fibers of line density are arranged in pairs or groups with it; The content of heat generating fiber can not surpass certain proportion simultaneously, otherwise can can't weave because of the yarn strength deficiency causes.Too high like the ratio of heat generating fiber in raw material in addition, can cause that heating effect is very good and cause heating up higher, reduce the comfort of raw material on the contrary.The price of considering heat generating fiber simultaneously is higher, and the increase along with its ratio in the raw material can increase product cost significantly.Select proper raw material institutional framework and weaving for use, under the prerequisite that can satisfy raw material comfort (certain the degree of heat), also help suitably to reduce the ratio of heat generating fiber in the raw material.
2, the fabric tissue parameter is confirmed
With two 18.5tex 55% acrylic fibers, 40% viscose glue and 5% heat generating fiber blended yarn; With 410 sth. made by twisting/rice and twist with the fingers resultant yarn, with three 18.5tex models/tencel blended yarn, with 320 sth. made by twisting/rice and twist with the fingers resultant yarn; Adopt the two shuttle feeding of two yarns braid method, the sweater knitted raw material of weaving.
(1) fabric tissue: single face plain weave.
(2) horizontal close: 78 stringers/10cm; Vertical close: 59 lines/10cm.
(3) pin number: 12G
(4) grammes per square metre: 280 grams/square metre.
The present invention is crucial in the major technique that development process solves
1, it is inhomogeneous and the look flower that causes is used new prescription post processing again to have overcome the plurality of raw materials yarn dyeing, makes yarn soft and do not lose elasticity, and sweater is beautiful in colour and be rich in gloss.Dyeing and finishing technology selects for use active environmental protection dyestuff to dye.In dyeing course, note quality problems such as control look flower and aberration.
2, raw material and yarn texture are selected: to material choice and a large amount of contrast experiment of proportioning process, purpose is should demonstrate fully the excellent thermal property of final products to make product have comfortableness and skin-friendly etc. preferably again.The one, select heat generating fiber, anti-pilling acrylic fiber, 3 kinds of fiber blend yarns of common viscose glue for use, the 2nd, select model/tencel blended yarn, adopt the two shuttle feeding methods of two yarns.Because the line density of heat generating fiber is 0.2tex, general fiber is thick, but its brute force is lower; So selecting line density for use is the Antipilling nitrilon collocation of 0.1tex; The bar that had so both guaranteed to spin the ramuscule yarn is done and is powerful, has solved the ANTIPILLING problem of raw material again, but has added the moisture pick-up properties of common viscose glue raw material; Improve comfortableness, can reduce cost simultaneously; Select Lenzin Modal fibre/tencel blended yarn,, embody the feel and the comfortableness of Modal fibre and tencel fiber, improved the feel and the skin-friendly of sweater greatly as the surperficial yarn of this sweater.
3, the heat generating fiber ratio is selected: because the heat generating fiber cost is high, dyeing ability is poor, brute force is lower; So fiber can not purely spin; Therefore when blending, need better powerful or other less fibers of line density are arranged in pairs or groups with it; The content of heat generating fiber can not surpass certain proportion simultaneously, otherwise can can't weave because of the yarn strength deficiency causes.The ratio of heat generating fiber in raw material is too high, can cause that heating effect is very good to cause heating up higher, reduces the comfort of raw material on the contrary.The price of heat generating fiber is higher simultaneously, and the increase along with its ratio in the raw material can increase product cost significantly, and finally selecting EKS heat generating fiber ratio is 5%.
5, to 18.5tex 55% acrylic fibers/40% viscose glue/5%EKS heat generating fiber blended yarn, should suitably increase the single yarn twist, generally exceed 5%-8%, to improve yarn strength than the conventional needle brocade blended yarn twist.The broken yarn phenomenon that minimizing occurs in the braiding process; Adopt the form of three strands of yarns to merge twisting to 18.5tex model/tencel blended yarn, make yarn texture more even, to improve fabric quality.
4, select proper raw material institutional framework and weaving for use---the two organization methods that tat of two yarns; Heat generating fiber is woven in the sweater internal layer; Other fibers are at skin; Embody the heating storage hot merit ability of model/sky silk fabrics style and heat generating fiber to greatest extent, the while also under the prerequisite that can satisfy the raw material comfort, also helps suitably to reduce the ratio of heat generating fiber in the raw material.
5, when sweater is weaved, adopt the straight-bar machines of 12 pins to weave after the test of many times, increase by a folder spring in the Yarn feed device, promptly adopt the setting of double fastener spring, yarn tension when weaving to control better guarantees that grey cloth is density stabilized.
This product characteristic is:
1, since EKS moisture absorption heating fiber in dyeing course itself can not on dye color; But can regulate dye liquor pH value within the specific limits automatically; This phenomenon is easy to cause raw material look flower fault in dyeing course, to occur; Therefore in dyeing course, the pH value of dye liquor is controlled at reasonable range as far as possible, so that reduce of the influence of moisture absorption heating fiber to dye liquor pH value.
2, sweater raw material will reasonably be formulated and screen in back arrangement process softener technology and auxiliary agent, and purpose is to avoid influencing the absorption of anion and the performance of effect thereof, also will give raw material ultra gentle feel simultaneously.
3, raw material will be formulated rational stoving process in back arrangement process, adopts the rolling type dryer, its objective is to let raw material be in relaxed state, with the fluffy sense and the pliability of further raising raw material always.
4, select proper raw material institutional framework and weaving for use---two yarns are two to tat organization method, and heat generating fiber is woven in the sweater internal layer, and other fibers embody the heating storage hot merit ability of model/sky silk fabrics style and heat generating fiber to greatest extent at skin.
5, in Yarn feed device, increase by a folder spring, promptly adopt the setting of double fastener spring, yarn tension when weaving to control better guarantees that grey cloth is density stabilized.
6, with the made product of the present invention, color fastness to washing can reach: 4-5 level (3 grades of specification requirements); Color fastness to water can reach: 4-5 level (3 grades of specification requirements); Acidproof sweat juice COLOR FASTNESS can reach: 4-5 level (3 grades of specification requirements); Alkaline-resisting sweat juice COLOR FASTNESS can reach: 4-5 level (3 grades of specification requirements).Fastness to rubbing can reach: dry friction: 4-5 level (3 grades of specification requirements); Wet friction: 4-5 level (specification requirement 2-3 level); Color fastness to light is better than 4 grades.Content of formaldehyde is less than 20mg/kg (specification requirement is less than 75mg/kg).
The above only is a preferred implementation of the present invention; Should be pointed out that for those skilled in the art, under the prerequisite that does not break away from know-why of the present invention; Can also make some improvement and retouching, these improvement and retouching also should be regarded as protection scope of the present invention.

Claims (2)

1. a sweater weaving that contains the heat generating fiber raw material is characterized in that said weaving is: adopt the two shuttle feeding method braidings of two yarns to form sweater raw material two A blended yarns and three B blended yarns; Wherein the A blended yarn is used to weave the internal layer of sweater, and the B blended yarn is used to weave the superficial layer of sweater, and said A blended yarn is formed by heat generating fiber, viscose and anti-pilling acrylic fiber blending, and said B blended yarn is by Modal fibre and silk fiber blended forming; In said A blended yarn, contain 3%~8% heat generating fiber, contain 30%~50% viscose, contain 50%~60% anti-pilling acrylic fiber, above-mentioned % is the % of fiber number; The horizontal density of said sweater raw material is 78 stringers/10cm, and the vertical density of said sweater raw material is 59 lines/10cm; The grammes per square metre of said sweater raw material is: 280 grams/square metre.
2. the sweater weaving that contains the heat generating fiber raw material according to claim 1; It is characterized in that; The fineness index of said A blended yarn and B blended yarn is 18.5 Tekes, and wherein the fineness index of anti-pilling acrylic fiber in the A blended yarn and viscose is 0.1 Tekes; The strand twist of said A blended yarn is 410 sth. made by twisting/rice, and the strand twist of said B blended yarn is 320 sth. made by twisting/rice; In the two shuttle feeding methods of described pair of yarn, adopted the straight-bar machines of 12 pins to weave, selected Yarn feed device for use in the described pair of two shuttle feeding methods of yarn, said Yarn feed device is provided with the folder spring.
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