CN100404741C - Method for producing balling resistant cashmere sweater - Google Patents

Method for producing balling resistant cashmere sweater Download PDF

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Publication number
CN100404741C
CN100404741C CNB2005100430956A CN200510043095A CN100404741C CN 100404741 C CN100404741 C CN 100404741C CN B2005100430956 A CNB2005100430956 A CN B2005100430956A CN 200510043095 A CN200510043095 A CN 200510043095A CN 100404741 C CN100404741 C CN 100404741C
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cashmere
twisting
twist
minutes
cashmere sweater
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CN1730757A (en
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孟家光
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Xian Polytechnic University
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Xian Polytechnic University
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Abstract

The present invention relates to a method for producing balling resistant cashmere sweaters. The method comprises the following steps: 1. selecting cashmere raw fibers: cashmere raw fibers with the cashmere fineness of 14 to 16 mu m and the cashmere length of 28 to 34mm are selected; 2. spinning: in the twisting step, for common cashmere yarn with the fineness of 35.7*2 to 41.7*2 tex, the twist number is 450 to 500 twists/m and the twisting direction is Z twist for cashmere single yarn, and the twist number is 248 to 340 twists/m and the twisting direction is S twist for stranded yarn; the twist number ratio of the stranded yarn to the single yarn is 0.55 to 0.68; 3. knitting: garment pieces for cashmere sweaters satisfying the requirements are knitted on a flat knitting machine according to the requirements for the style, the tissue and the density for the cashmere sweaters; 4. sweater making: according to the requirement for the style of the cashmere sweaters, the garment pieces of the cashmere sweaters are sutured into cashmere sweaters by a sewing machine; 5. finishing. The present invention solves the technical problems of easy fluffing and easy balling existing in the method for producing cashmere sweaters in the prior art.

Description

A kind of method of producing balling resistant cashmere sweater
One, technical field
The present invention relates to field of textiles, especially a kind of method of producing balling resistant cashmere sweater.
Two, background technology
Existing common cashmere sweater, because the cashmere fiber surface has scale and fiber is short, thin, soft, smooth, characteristics such as cohesive force difference between fiber, in dress and washing, exist serious fluffing, pilling effect, influence the presentation quality and the service life of cashmere sweater.
And the technological process of production of present common cashmere sweater is:
Cashmere fiber raw material → spinning → knitting → ready-made clothes → back arrangement → finished product inspection → packing warehouse-in.
In this production technology, what its plying and single twist adopted than parameter in the twisting in spinning process twisting stage is 0.4~0.55, make the suffered tension force of outer cashmere fiber in the yarn less like this, external force such as rubbed is done the time spent, is easy to skid off from yarn and then fluffing and balling-up; In the fulling milling operation of back arrangement, employing be traditional technology and auxiliary agent, limit moving of fiber not yet in effectly, make finished product cashmere sweater easily fluffing and balling-up.
Three, summary of the invention
The present invention solves the easy fluffing of the production method existence of the cashmere sweater in the background technology, the technical problem of balling-up.
Technical solution of the present invention is: the present invention is a kind of method of production ANTIPILLING knitted cashmere sweater, and this method may further comprise the steps:
1) cashmere fiber material choice: select cashmere fineness 14~16 μ m, the cashmere fiber raw material of length 28~34mm;
2) spinning: with spun fineness is the cashmere yarn of 35.7 * 2~41.7 * 2tex, in the twisting step, makes its cashmere yarn single twist: 450~500 sth. made by twisting/m, twist with the fingers to twisting with the fingers for Z; In the double twisting step, make its cashmere yarn plying twist: 248~340 sth. made by twisting/m, twist with the fingers to twisting with the fingers for s; Its plying is 0.55~0.68 with the single twist ratio;
3) braiding: on horizontal loom, weave satisfactory cashmere sweater garment piece by style, tissue and the density requirements of cashmere sweater;
4) ready-made clothes:, adopt sewing machine that each garment piece of cashmere sweater is stitched into cashmere sweater by the style requirement of cashmere sweater;
5) arrangement.
Above-mentioned steps 5) Zheng Li step is as follows:
51) soak:, soaked under the condition that temperature is 25 ℃ 20~30 minutes bath raio 1: 30;
52) fulling milling: bath raio 1: 30, under the condition that temperature is 40 ℃, add detergent, consumption is with respect to 5% of fabric weight, 8~10 minutes time; Dehydration then;
53) soak the nano zine oxide finishing agent: in bath raio: 1: 15, under the condition that temperature is 40 ℃, add the nano zine oxide finishing agent, its consumption be with respect to 4% of fabric weight, soak time is 30~40 minutes, dewaters then;
54) soak softener: bath raio 1: 15, under the condition that temperature is 40 ℃, adopt SRA-1 type softener, consumption is with respect to 6% of fabric weight, and soak time is 30~40 minutes;
55) dehydration: dewatered 15 minutes, dehydration back moisture is 30~40%;
56) oven dry: bake out temperature: 70 ℃, drying time: 30~40 minutes;
57) steam boiling hot typing: steam by the style requirement of cashmere sweater and scald typing.
Above-mentioned steps 52) detergent is selected JXA-1 type detergent.
Above-mentioned steps 53) containing the nano zine oxide amount in the nano zine oxide finishing agent is 10%, and the nano zine oxide granularity is 30~50nm.
The present invention optimizes rational plying and single twist ratio in spinning process, be 0.4~0.5 with traditional plying with the single twist ratio, brings up to 0.55~0.68.At fineness commonly used is the cashmere yarn of 35.7 * 2~41.7 * 2tex, its sub-thread twist is got 450~500 sth. made by twisting/m, the plying twist is got 248~340 sth. made by twisting/m, its plying is 0.55~0.68 with the single twist ratio, can make the whole softness, sliding glutinous that keeps of yarn like this, and the suffered binding force of fiber in the yarn is strengthened, skid off from yarn than difficult when being subjected to rubbing; And in the fulling milling operation of back arrangement, adopt the silicone softening agent SRA-1 of special modification, form one deck not only softness but also whippy film at fiber surface, can make yarn keep soft, sliding glutinous, limited the one-way movement of cashmere fiber again, thereby made clothes when being subjected to rubbing, be difficult for pilling; When the soft treatment of fulling milling operation back, introduce nano zinc oxide material, it is inhaled in the fabric, it will be adsorbed in the space of cashmere fiber, the superelevation adsorption capacity of nano zinc oxide material, adjacent fiber can be adsorbed onto together, and then the mutual motility of restriction cashmere fiber, make difficult fluffing of cashmere yarn and balling-up.The technology of other operation in the cashmere sweater spinning step is identical with the production technology of present cashmere sweater.Therefore the cashmere sweater made of the inventive method has overcome the shortcoming of the easy balling-up of original knitted cashmere sweater, has improved 1 grade than the cashmere sweater ANTIPILLING grade of traditional handicraft, and the good hand of cashmere sweater and appearance style all not have change.
Four, the specific embodiment
The present invention specifically may further comprise the steps:
1, cashmere fiber material choice: cashmere fineness 14~16 μ m of cashmere fiber, length 28~34mm;
2, spinning:
The cashmere fiber spinning mainly contains and steps such as hair, carding, pre-drawing, drafting, rove, spun yarn, winder, doubling, twisting, double twisting;
The fineness of institute's wool cashmere yarn is: 35.7 * 2~41.7 * 2tex, wherein twist in the step cashmere single twist: and 450~500 sth. made by twisting/m, twist with the fingers to twisting with the fingers for Z; In the double twisting step, the cashmere plying twist: 248~340 sth. made by twisting/m, to twist with the fingers to being the s sth. made by twisting, except that twisting, double twisting step, other step is identical with the spinning process of existing cashmere yarn in each step of spinning;
3, braiding: on horizontal knitting, weave satisfactory cashmere sweater garment piece by style, tissue and the density requirements of cashmere sweater;
4, ready-made clothes:, adopt sewing machine that each garment piece of cashmere sweater is stitched into cashmere sweater by the style requirement of cashmere sweater;
5, arrangement:
51) soak:, soaked under the condition that temperature is 25 ℃ 20~30 minutes bath raio 1: 30;
52) fulling milling: bath raio 1: 30, temperature: 40 ℃, add auxiliary agent: JXA-1 type detergent, consumption were with respect to 5% of fabric weight, 8~10 minutes time; Dehydration then;
53) soak the nano zine oxide finishing agent: bath raio: 1: 15, temperature: 40 ℃.Nano zine oxide finishing agent, its consumption are with respect to 4% of fabric weight, and the nano zine oxide amount that contains of nano zine oxide finishing agent is 10%, and the nano zine oxide granularity is 30~50nm, and soak time is 30~40 minutes; Dehydration then;
54) soak softener: bath raio 1: 15, temperature: 40 ℃.Adopt SRA-1 type softener, consumption is with respect to 6% of fabric weight, and soak time is 30~40 minutes;
55) dehydration: dewatered 15 minutes, dehydration back moisture is about 30~40%;
56) oven dry: bake out temperature: 70 ℃, drying time: 30~40 minutes;
57) steam boiling hot typing: steam by the style requirement of cashmere sweater and scald typing.
Below in conjunction with specific embodiment the present invention is done further detailed description:
Embodiment 1, is the ANTIPILLING cashmere cardigan of the cashmere yarn production latitude plain stitch of 35.7 * 2tex with fineness.Its production technology is as follows:
1, cashmere fiber material choice: selecting cashmere fiber content is 100%, cashmere fineness 15 μ m, length 33mm;
2, spinning: the fineness of institute's wool cashmere yarn is: 35.7 * 2tex, and the cashmere single twist: 490 sth. made by twisting/m, twist with the fingers to twisting with the fingers for Z; The plying twist: 320 sth. made by twisting/m, twist with the fingers to being the s sth. made by twisting, spinning process spins routinely;
3, braiding: knit in that 12 pins are horizontal, the garment piece with the ANTIPILLING cashmere cardigan of the cashmere yarn braiding latitude plain stitch of 35.7 * 2tex comprises: anter, rear panel, sleeve sheet, lead sheet and left front etc.;
4, ready-made clothes:, adopt sewing machine that each garment piece of cashmere cardigan is stitched into the cashmere cardigan by the style requirement of cashmere cardigan;
5, back arrangement:
51) soak:, soaked 20 minutes under the condition that temperature is 25 ℃ bath raio 1: 30;
52) fulling milling: in bath raio 1: 30,40 ℃ of temperature, add auxiliary agent: JXA-1 type detergent, consumption be with respect to 5% of fabric weight, 8 minutes time, dehydration then;
53) soak the nano zine oxide finishing agent: bath raio: 1: 15,40 ℃ of temperature.Nano zine oxide finishing agent, its consumption are with respect to 4% of fabric weight, and soak time is 30 minutes, then dehydration;
54) soak softener: bath raio 1: 15,40 ℃ of temperature adopt SRA-1 type softener, and consumption is with respect to 6% of fabric weight, and soak time is 30 minutes;
55) dehydration: dewatered 15 minutes, dehydration back moisture is 35%;
56) oven dry: bake out temperature: 70 ℃, drying time: 30 minutes;
57) steam boiling hot typing: steam by the style requirement of cashmere sweater and scald typing.
Embodiment 2, are that the cashmere yarn of 38.5 * 2tex is produced the rib-loop ANTIPILLING cashmere blouse of gas-bearing formation tissue in midair with fineness.Its production technology is as follows:
1, cashmere fiber material choice: selecting cashmere fiber content is 100%, cashmere fineness 15.5 μ m, length 31mm;
2, spinning: the fineness of institute's wool cashmere yarn is: 38.5 * 2tex, and the cashmere single twist: 470 sth. made by twisting/m, twist with the fingers to twisting with the fingers for Z; The plying twist: 280 sth. made by twisting/m, twist with the fingers to being the s sth. made by twisting, spinning process spins routinely;
3, braiding: knit in that 11 pins are horizontal,, comprising: anter, rear panel, sleeve sheet, lead sheet etc. with the cashmere yarn braiding rib-loop of the 38.5 * 2tex garment piece of the ANTIPILLING cashmere blouse of gas-bearing formation tissue in midair;
4, ready-made clothes:, adopt sewing machine that each garment piece of cashmere blouse is stitched into the cashmere blouse by the style requirement of cashmere blouse;
5, back arrangement:
51) soak:, soaked 25 minutes under the condition that temperature is 25 ℃ bath raio 1: 30;
52) fulling milling: in bath raio 1: 30,40 ℃ of temperature, add auxiliary agent: JXA-1 type detergent, consumption be with respect to 5% of fabric weight, 9 minutes time, dehydration then;
53) soak the nano zine oxide finishing agent: bath raio: 1: 15,40 ℃ of temperature, nano zine oxide finishing agent, its consumption are with respect to 4% of fabric weight, soak time is 35 minutes, then dehydration;
54) soak softener: bath raio 1: 15,40 ℃ of temperature adopt SRA-1 type softener, and consumption is with respect to 6% of fabric weight, and soak time is 35 minutes;
55) dehydration: dewatered 15 minutes, dehydration back moisture is 30%;
56) oven dry: bake out temperature: 70 ℃, drying time: 35 minutes;
57) steam boiling hot typing: steam by the style requirement of cashmere sweater and scald typing.
Embodiment 3, are the ANTIPILLING cashmere vest of the cashmere yarn production full cardigan tissue of 41.7 * 2tex with fineness.Its production technology is as follows:
1, cashmere fiber material choice: selecting cashmere fiber content is 100%, cashmere fineness 16 μ m, length 29mm;
2, spinning: the fineness of institute's wool cashmere yarn is: 41.7 * 2tex, and the cashmere single twist: 460 sth. made by twisting/m, twist with the fingers to twisting with the fingers for Z; The plying twist: 260 sth. made by twisting/m, twist with the fingers to being the s sth. made by twisting, spinning process spins routinely;
3, braiding: knit in that 10 pins are horizontal, with the garment piece of the ANTIPILLING cashmere vest of the cashmere yarn braiding full cardigan tissue of 41.7 * 2tex, comprising: anter, rear panel, neck sheet and extension are takeed on ribbed border etc.;
4, ready-made clothes:, adopt sewing machine that each garment piece of cashmere vest is stitched into the cashmere vest by the style requirement of cashmere vest;
5, arrangement:
1) soaks:, soaked 30 minutes under the condition that temperature is 25 ℃ bath raio 1: 30;
2) fulling milling: bath raio 1: 30, temperature: 40 ℃, auxiliary agent: JXA-1 type detergent, consumption be with respect to 5% of fabric weight, 10 minutes time, dehydration then;
3) soak the nano zine oxide finishing agent: bath raio: 1: 15,40 ℃ of temperature.Nano zine oxide finishing agent, its consumption are with respect to 4% of fabric weight, and soak time is 40 minutes, then dehydration;
4) soak softener: bath raio 1: 15,40 ℃ of temperature adopt SRA-1 type softener, and consumption is with respect to 6% of fabric weight, and soak time is 40 minutes;
5) dehydration: dewatered 15 minutes, dehydration back moisture is 40%;
6) oven dry: bake out temperature: 70 ℃, drying time: 40 minutes;
7) steam boiling hot typing: steam by the style requirement of cashmere sweater and scald typing.

Claims (4)

1. method of producing the ANTIPILLING knitted cashmere sweater, this method may further comprise the steps:
1) cashmere fiber material choice: select cashmere fineness 14~16 μ m, the cashmere fiber raw material of length 28~34mm;
2) spinning: with spun fineness is the cashmere yarn of 35.7 * 2~41.7 * 2tex, in the twisting step, makes its cashmere yarn single twist: 450~500 sth. made by twisting/m, twist with the fingers to twisting with the fingers for Z; In the double twisting step, make its cashmere yarn plying twist: 248~340 sth. made by twisting/m, twist with the fingers to twisting with the fingers for s; Its plying is 0.55~0.68 with the single twist ratio;
3) braiding: on horizontal loom, weave satisfactory cashmere sweater garment piece by style, tissue and the density requirements of cashmere sweater;
4) ready-made clothes:, adopt sewing machine that each garment piece of cashmere sweater is stitched into cashmere sweater by the style requirement of cashmere sweater;
5) arrangement.
2. the method for production ANTIPILLING knitted cashmere sweater according to claim 1 is characterized in that: the step of described step 5) arrangement is as follows:
51) soak:, soaked under the condition that temperature is 25 ℃ 20~30 minutes bath raio 1: 30;
52) fulling milling: bath raio 1: 30, under the condition that temperature is 40 ℃, add detergent, consumption is with respect to 5% of fabric weight, 8~10 minutes time; Dehydration then;
53) soak the nano zine oxide finishing agent: in bath raio: 1: 15, under the condition that temperature is 40 ℃, dose the nano zine oxide finishing agent, its consumption be with respect to 4% of fabric weight, soak time is 30~40 minutes, dewaters then;
54) soak softener: bath raio 1: 15, under the condition that temperature is 40 ℃, adopt SRA-1 type softener, consumption is with respect to 6% of fabric weight, and soak time is 30~40 minutes;
55) dehydration: dewatered 15 minutes, dehydration back moisture is 30 40%;
56) oven dry: bake out temperature: 70 ℃, drying time: 30~40 minutes;
57) steam boiling hot typing: steam by the style requirement of cashmere sweater and scald typing.
3. the method for production ANTIPILLING knitted cashmere sweater according to claim 2 is characterized in that: detergent described step 52) is selected JXA-1 type detergent.
4. the method for production ANTIPILLING knitted cashmere sweater according to claim 2 is characterized in that: containing the nano zine oxide amount in the nano zine oxide finishing agent described step 53) is 10%, and the nano zine oxide granularity is 30~50nm.
CNB2005100430956A 2005-08-12 2005-08-12 Method for producing balling resistant cashmere sweater Expired - Fee Related CN100404741C (en)

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CN106801338A (en) * 2017-01-17 2017-06-06 常熟市新光毛条处理有限公司 A kind of wool tops is without the shrinkproof Anti-Pilling Finishes technique of chlorine
CN107245799A (en) * 2017-04-28 2017-10-13 嵊州市瑞林羊绒纺织厂 A kind of production method of balling resistant cashmere sweater
CN107287747B (en) * 2017-05-19 2019-02-19 杭州琪利琪羊绒服饰有限公司 The technique of knitted cashmere sweater machine washable anti pilling
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CN109222258A (en) * 2018-10-11 2019-01-18 浙江浅秋针织服饰有限公司 Multipurpose cashmere sweater and its production technology
CN110037364A (en) * 2019-05-18 2019-07-23 北京金鹰羊绒制衣有限公司 A kind of cashmere sweater clothing technique
CN110184767A (en) * 2019-05-18 2019-08-30 北京金鹰羊绒制衣有限公司 A kind of cashmere sweater washes contracting technique
CN110820149B (en) * 2019-10-23 2021-03-12 北京东土复兴服饰有限公司 Manufacturing process of velvet sweater
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CN113235199A (en) * 2021-04-09 2021-08-10 桐乡市穿发服饰有限公司 Cashmere fancy yarn and manufacturing method of knitwear thereof
CN113308891A (en) * 2021-06-21 2021-08-27 安徽弋尚纺织科技有限公司 Cashmere warm-keeping composite suit fabric and production process thereof
CN113403740B (en) * 2021-07-07 2022-08-30 上海嘉芮实业有限公司 Wool knitted fabric with locally strong fulling and preparation method thereof

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Assignee: Goodwide (Chinese) Co. Ltd.

Assignor: Xi'an Engineering Univ.

Contract fulfillment period: 2008.11.8 to 2013.11.8 contract change

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Denomination of invention: Method for producing balling resistant cashmere sweater

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