CN113403740B - Wool knitted fabric with locally strong fulling and preparation method thereof - Google Patents
Wool knitted fabric with locally strong fulling and preparation method thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN113403740B CN113403740B CN202110766454.XA CN202110766454A CN113403740B CN 113403740 B CN113403740 B CN 113403740B CN 202110766454 A CN202110766454 A CN 202110766454A CN 113403740 B CN113403740 B CN 113403740B
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
- D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
- D04B1/243—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel upper parts of panties; pants
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
- D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
- D04B1/246—Upper torso garments, e.g. sweaters, shirts, leotards
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
- D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
- D10B2211/02—Wool
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Abstract
The invention provides a wool knitted fabric with local strong fulling and a preparation method thereof. The wool knitted fabric comprises at least two weave structures, wherein the first weave structure is a tri-planar weave which accounts for more than 50% of the total area of the wool knitted fabric. The wool knitted fabric has diversity of the texture structure and attractive appearance, and has good heat retention property due to the fact that the wool knitted fabric has local strong fulling.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the field of textiles, in particular to a wool knitted fabric with local strong felting and a preparation method thereof.
Background
Wool is an important raw material in the textile industry, and the most widely used is sheep wool, commonly called wool or wool fiber, which has high water absorption, is comfortable to wear, can form a plurality of non-flowing air spaces as barriers due to natural curling, has good heat retention, and has very good stretchability and elastic recovery, and has durability.
Meanwhile, under the condition of damp heat, the fiber assemblies can be gradually contracted and compacted under the repeated action of mechanical external force, and are mutually interpenetrated and entangled and interwoven into felting. This property is called the felting (also called felting) of the wool fibres. The felting property is caused by the poor micro-friction effect that the friction coefficient of the positive scale of the wool fibers is smaller than that of the negative scale.
The felting property is the biggest characteristic of the wool fabric, when the wool fabric is repeatedly rubbed by mechanical external force, the wool fabric generates the trend of unidirectional movement pointing to the root end of the fiber, and in addition, the wool has excellent extensibility, rebound resilience and space curling, so that the wool fiber is easy to move, the wool fiber is subjected to cross knitting and felting, the wool end is gradually exposed on the surface of the fabric, the fabric becomes excellent in appearance, thick in hand feeling, soft in texture and good in heat preservation effect. However, the existence of the fulling property also causes the size instability of the fabric (which is common in life, the woolen sweater is easy to shrink and the size of the woolen sweater is reduced after being washed).
In order to improve and enhance the inherent quality and appearance effect of wool fabric, generally, a felting treatment is often required in the wool fabric manufacturing process to ensure that the fabric has compact texture, shortened length, increased square meter weight and thickness, enhanced strength and enhanced elasticity and heat retention, and a layer of fluff is exposed on the surface of the felted wool fabric to ensure that the appearance is beautiful, the hand feeling is thick and soft, and the color is soft.
The conventional fulling method comprises spinning wool, weaving or weaving into a piece or cloth, fulling and then making into garment, and also comprises fulling wool directly. In the prior art, few reports are related to direct fulling of ready-made clothes. The prior patent document 1 of the applicant discloses a fulling method of wool knitted garment, namely washing the wool knitted garment by using heat treatment liquid, wherein the washing temperature is 68-75 ℃, and the bath ratio is controlled to be 1: 20-30; through the accurate regulation and control of the washing temperature and the washing time, the wool strong-shrinkage knitted fabric which has high shrinkage rate, can realize stable shrinkage simultaneously in the transverse direction and the longitudinal direction and in each accessory can be obtained, the product quality is good, the format size accuracy is high, the specification size deviation is +/-1.0 cm, and the product yield can reach more than 99%.
Consumers demand not only good patterns and warmth but also beautiful and various patterns of externally worn knitted fabrics, for example, knitted fabrics having different textures are more and more favored by many people. However, the wool fabric pieces with different tissue structures have different external forces on wool, the fabric structures have different felting degrees (or felting effects) under the same temperature and other felting conditions, the fabric piece retraction rate of part of the tissue structures is small, the fabric piece retraction rate of part of the component structures is large, when the finished garment is directly subjected to fulling, how to realize that the fabric pieces with different tissue structures can still ensure the smoothness of the sleeve opening sewing part after fulling, ensure the accuracy of the size version and simultaneously keep the heat retention property, and is a great challenge.
Patent document 1: CN108149417A
Disclosure of Invention
Problems to be solved by the invention
In order to solve the problems in the prior art, the invention provides a wool knitted fabric with local strong fulling, which has both aesthetic property and heat retention property and accuracy of size and shape, and a preparation method of the wool knitted fabric with local strong fulling.
Means for solving the problems
The invention provides the following technical scheme:
[1] a partially veloped wool knit fabric, wherein:
the wool knitted fabric comprises at least two weave structures, wherein the first weave structure is a tri-planar weave which accounts for more than 50% of the total area of the wool knitted fabric, and the rest is other weave structures.
[2] The wool knitted fabric according to [1], wherein:
the other tissue structure is selected from rib tissue, twisted tissue, ribbed tissue, jacquard tissue and/or single-sided tissue; furthermore, before the garment fulling process, the looping density in the length direction of the tri-planar tissue is 20-80 turns/needle of other tissue structures corresponding to every 104 turns of the tri-planar tissue.
[3] The wool knitted fabric according to [2], wherein:
the other tissue structures are selected from rib textures, and the sleeve opening density in the length direction of the three-dimensional tissues before the garment fulling process is 30-39-turn rib textures corresponding to every 104 turns of the three-dimensional tissues; or the other tissue structure is selected from rib tissue, and the pocket mouth density before the garment fulling process is that the length of per 104 turns of the three-flat tissue corresponds to the width of 65-80 needles of rib tissue.
[4] The wool knitted fabric according to [2], wherein:
the other tissue structures are selected from single-sided tissues or twisted tissues, and the looping density in the length direction of the three-dimensional tissues before the garment fulling process is 20-32 turns of the single-sided tissues or the twisted tissues corresponding to every 104 turns of the three-dimensional tissues.
[5] A method for producing a wool knitted fabric having a locally strong fulling according to any one of claims 1 to 4, comprising a spinning step, a weaving step, and a garment fulling step, wherein:
the weaving process comprises the step of preparing a tri-planar tissue sheet, wherein the front surface of the tri-planar tissue sheet is subjected to densification of 2.2-2.8cm/8, and the back surface of the tri-planar tissue sheet is subjected to densification of 2.1-2.5cm/10 meshes.
[6] The method for producing a partially strongly felted wool knitted fabric according to [5], wherein: the three-dimensional tissue piece is 280-350 turns and 180-250 needles.
[7] The method for producing a partially strongly-felted wool knitted fabric according to [5] or [6], wherein:
the garment fulling process comprises the steps of washing wool knitted garments obtained by sewing knitted pieces with different tissue structures through a looping by using heat treatment liquid, controlling the washing temperature to be 50-75 ℃, controlling the bath ratio to be 1:20-30, washing for 10-30 minutes, dewatering and drying after washing to obtain the wool knitted fabrics with locally strong fulling.
[8] The method of producing a partially strongly-felted wool knitted fabric according to [7], wherein:
the average area shrinkage rate of the three-plain weave piece in the wool knitted garment after the garment milling process is more than 30%, and further is 30% -45%.
[9] The method for producing a wool knitted fabric with locally strong felting according to any one of the technical aspects of [5] to [8], wherein:
the three-plain weave part of the wool knitted garment is obtained by weaving 25-44 metric single yarn yarns into a weaving piece and sewing, and the wool adopted by the weaving piece is thin wool with the diameter of less than 24 mu m and the length of a wool cluster of 5.5-12 cm.
[10] The method for producing a wool knitted fabric which is locally strongly felted according to any one of claims [5] to [9], wherein:
the fine wool is selected from Australian merino wool.
ADVANTAGEOUS EFFECTS OF INVENTION
The invention provides a wool knitted fabric with local strong fulling, which has the advantages of diversity of tissue structures, attractive appearance, local strong fulling and good heat retention, the three-plane tissue part can generate strong fulling, the area ratio of the local strong fulling is not less than 50%, light of the part is not easy to transmit, cold air is not easy to blow through, the heat retention effect can be improved, the bone feeling of the fabric is enhanced, the prepared fabric is suitable for being worn outside, and other tissue structures with relatively small shrinkage can be adopted at the positions of a collar/cuffs/front piece and the like, so that the attractive appearance is improved. The invention also provides a preparation method of the wool knitted fabric with the local strong fulling, and by using the method, even under the condition of large difference of the fulling effect of the tissue structure, the smooth cloth surface of the product can be ensured, the size accuracy of the pattern is high, the deviation of the specification size is +/-1.0 cm, and the product yield can reach more than 99%. In addition, the invention adopts the knitting process to completely keep the characteristics of comfortable and skin-friendly knitted products, and the prepared ready-made clothes have good inclusion and extensibility and are obviously different from the constraint feeling of woven clothes or cut and sewn clothes.
Drawings
FIG. 1: the present application uses the look control chart before and after fulling of the pants obtained in example 1 (the left side is the ready-made pants before fulling, and the right side is the finished pants after fulling).
FIG. 2: the knit pants obtained in application example 1 of the present application had a partially enlarged view of the tri-flat stitch and rib stitch cuff stitches before and after fulling (before fulling on the left side and after fulling on the right side).
FIG. 3: this application compares the tri-planar and rib stitch cuff stitches of application example 1 to a close-up view before and after fulling (before fulling on the left and after fulling on the right).
FIG. 4: the present application compares the partial enlarged view of the tri-planar and rib stitch cuff stitches of application example 2 before and after fulling (before fulling on the left, after fulling on the right).
FIG. 5: and (5) a twisted weaving piece needle arrangement diagram.
Detailed Description
The following describes embodiments of the present invention, but the present invention is not limited to these embodiments. The present invention is not limited to the configurations described below, and various modifications are possible within the scope of the claims, and embodiments and examples obtained by appropriately combining the technical means disclosed in the respective embodiments and examples are also included in the technical scope of the present invention. All documents described in this specification are incorporated herein by reference.
Unless defined otherwise, technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention belongs.
The use of the terms "a" and "an" and "the" and similar referents in the context of describing the invention (especially in the context of the following claims) are to be construed to cover both the singular and the plural, unless otherwise indicated herein or clearly contradicted by context.
In the present specification, a numerical range represented by "a value to B value" or "a value to B value" means a range including the end point value A, B.
In the present specification, the meaning of "may" includes both the meaning of performing a certain process and the meaning of not performing a certain process. In this specification, "optional" or "optionally" means that the subsequently described event or circumstance may or may not occur, and that the description includes instances where the event occurs and instances where it does not.
Reference throughout this specification to "some particular/preferred embodiments," "other particular/preferred embodiments," "some particular/preferred aspects," "other particular/preferred aspects," or the like, means that a particular element (e.g., feature, structure, property, and/or characteristic) described in connection with the embodiment is included in at least one embodiment described herein, and may or may not be present in other embodiments. In addition, it is to be understood that the described elements may be combined in any suitable manner in the various embodiments.
The term "comprises" and any variations thereof in the description and claims of the invention are intended to cover non-exclusive inclusions. For example, a process, method, or system, article, or apparatus that comprises a list of steps or elements is not limited to only those steps or elements listed, but may alternatively include other steps or elements not listed, or inherent to such process, method, article, or apparatus.
In the present invention, the "widthwise shrinkage ratio" mainly refers to the dimensional shrinkage ratios of 1/2 chest circumference, 1/2 waist circumference, and shoulder width, and the "lengthwise shrinkage ratio" mainly refers to the dimensional shrinkage ratios of garment length, sleeve length, pant length, and skirt length.
In the present invention, the "gauge size deviation" refers to the size deviation of the actually produced knitted wool fabric from the design gauge in the longitudinal direction (garment length, sleeve length, pants length, skirt length) and the width direction (1/2 bust, 1/2 waist circumference, shoulder width).
In the present invention, "yield" is also referred to as yield, and means the number of knitted wool fabrics which meet the dimensional standard after fulling/the total number of finished clothes before fulling.
In the present invention, "bath ratio" means the weight ratio of the textile to the heat treatment liquid, for example, if 100 kg of the textile is treated with 1000 kg of the heat treatment liquid, the bath ratio is 1: 10.
In the present invention, the "knitted fabric" refers to a fabric formed by knitting a yarn into a loop by a knitting needle and interlooping the yarn.
In the present invention, the "three-planar-tissue length direction" refers to the column direction of the three planar tissues.
< wool knitted Fabric with locally Strong fulling >
In the invention, "local strong fulling" means that the area shrinkage of part of the weave structure of the wool knitted fabric after fulling treatment is not less than 30%. In some embodiments of the present invention, a "partially-shrunk wool knitted fabric" refers to a knitted fabric having two or more weave structures in a garment, wherein the area shrinkage of the three-flat weave part after the shrinking treatment is not less than 30% to achieve the effect of strong shrinkage, and the area shrinkage of other weave parts is not more than 10%, so that the phenomenon of partial strong shrinkage of a garment is achieved, and the rest parts basically keep the original state. In other embodiments of the present invention, a "partially veloped" wool knit also includes a wool knit in which all of the weave structures forming the wool knit have an area shrinkage of no less than 30%, but the difference in area shrinkage of different weave structures exists.
The wool knitted fabric of the invention comprises at least two weave structures. In some embodiments of the invention, the wool knit fabric of the invention comprises a total of two weave structures, such as tri-planar and twisted weave or tri-planar and rib weave. In other embodiments of the present invention, the wool knitted fabric of the present invention comprises three weave structures.
Generally, the knitted fabric has a wide variety of structures, and can be generally divided into a basic structure and a pattern structure, where the basic structure includes a weft plain structure (also referred to as a plain structure, such as a single-side weft plain structure (hereinafter referred to as a single-side structure), a cylinder (double-side plain) structure), a rib structure (such as a 1+1 rib, i.e., a full stitch rib, and also referred to as a quad structure), and a reversible structure, and the pattern structure includes a jacquard structure, a tuck structure, a transfer structure (such as a picking structure and a twisting structure), a loop structure, a wave structure, a weft-added structure, an air layer structure (such as a quad idle structure, and a triple-flat structure), and the like.
In order to obtain a locally strong fulling effect and ensure warmth retention, the present invention wherein the first tissue structure is a tri-planar tissue. The tri-planar histology is named as a rib semi-air layer and consists of four flat lines in a transverse row and a flat needle in the transverse row. The three-plane weave fabric has different densities and appearances on two sides, has larger extensibility than the four-plane weave fabric, soft hand feeling and thicker gray fabric.
The inventor finds that the shrinkage rate of the three-dimensional flat tissue and the single-sided tissue is relatively large, but the shrinkage rate of the three-dimensional flat tissue is larger and the stability is better, in addition, the three-dimensional flat tissue can form an air layer in the fabric after the front needle bed surface and the back needle bed surface are alternately knitted and compounded, and compared with the single-sided tissue fabric, the fabric piece of the weave structure has the advantages of compact and thick structure and good heat retention. The first weave structure of the present invention is therefore a tri-planar weave, which is the key weave structure of the partially fulling wool knit fabric of the present invention, and in some embodiments of the present invention, the "partial fulling" of the present invention refers primarily or substantially to the location after the tri-planar weave is fulled. In the present invention, in order to ensure better warmth retention, the tri-planar weave occupies 50% or more, more preferably 70% or more, and still more preferably 80% or more of the total area of the knitted wool fabric of the present invention, and other weave structures having a relatively small shrinkage ratio may be employed at the neckline, cuffs, front panel, and the like, to enhance the aesthetic property.
In order to ensure the smoothness of the collar part after the fulling of different tissue structures, the invention also carries out deep research on the fulling effect of the fabric pieces with different tissue structures, relatively speaking, the shrinkage of rib weave, four-flat weave, shrinkproof yarn fabric, jacquard weave and the like is relatively small, while the shrinkage of three-flat weave is large. In the invention, before the garment fulling process, the looping density in the length direction of the three-flat tissue is 20-80 turns/needle of other tissue structures corresponding to every 104 turns of the three-flat tissue, and further 25-75 turns/needle of other tissue structures. The pocket density in the length direction of the tri-planar tissue of the present invention refers to the ratio of the number of turns of the tri-planar tissue before fulling to the number of turns of the other tissue in the case where the finished products have the same length. For convenience of use, the number of rotations before milling is quantified as 104 for milling the other tissue corresponding to the three-phase tissue before milling. Because the knitting structure has certain elasticity, the matching range of the knitting structure and the knitting structure can float up and down, but if the matching revolution number is too large, the finished product after fulling is not smooth. When the sewing machine is used, whether the two tissues are easy to penetrate through the needle of the disc machine according to the matching density when the covering machine is used for covering the opening is also considered.
The other structures of the present invention are not particularly limited. In some embodiments of the invention, the other tissue structures of the invention have different retractions than the tri-planar tissue, and further, the other tissue structures of the invention are selected from rib, twisted, ribbed, jacquard and/or single sided tissue. Still further, other tissue structures of the present invention have a relatively low retraction rate compared to tri-planar tissue. Considering different texture structures with different felting degrees, when other texture structures are selected from rib textures, the sleeve opening density in the length direction of the three-flat textures is 30-39 turns before a garment felting process, and furthermore, the rib textures are 32-38 turns corresponding to every 104 turns of the three-flat textures. The other weave structure is selected from a convex strip weave, the pocket mouth density before the garment fulling process corresponds to the width of 65-80 needle convex strip weaves for every length of 104 turns of three-flat weaves, and further corresponds to the width of 68-75 needle convex strip weaves for every length of 104 turns of three-flat weaves. When other tissue structures are selected from single-sided tissues or twisted tissues, the sleeve opening density in the length direction of the three-dimensional tissues is 20-32 turns before the garment milling process, and furthermore, the three-dimensional tissues correspond to 25-30 turns of rib tissues every 104 turns.
< method for producing wool knitted fabric having strong localized fulling >
The preparation method of the wool knitted fabric with the local strong fulling comprises a spinning process, a weaving process and a garment fulling process. The procedures can adopt the conventional method in the field, but in order to ensure the effect of the final product, the key parameters of each procedure need to be controlled.
For the spinning process involving the tri-planar structure, it is preferable to use thin wool with wool fineness (i.e. the size of the cross section diameter of the wool fiber) below 24 μm and with a natural length of 5.5-12cm, such as Australian merino wool, domestic thin wool, e.g. Xinjiang thin wool. From the viewpoint of the stability of fulling, the Australian merino wool is more preferable. Australian Meilinu wool (merino wool), also known as Meilino or merino wool, is a broad name of wool produced by Meilino fine wool sheep, preferably with an average number of fineness in the range of 18.1-21.5 μm, more preferably with 80 wool tops in the present invention, with an average number of fineness of about 18.5 μm. Further, the Australian merino wool with the fiber fineness of 18.5 +/-0.3 mu m and the tuft length of more than 85mm is preferably adopted for spinning to obtain the yarn, and the yarn is dyed according to needs. The thickness of the yarn has a certain influence on the fulling effect. Further preferably, the ready-made clothes woven and sewn by single yarn yarns with 25 and 44 metric counts are more stable in shrinkage rate by the fulling method, higher in plate size accuracy and +/-1.0 cm in specification size deviation, wherein the size deviation in the length direction (clothes length, sleeve length, skirt length and trouser length) of 60cm or more is not more than 1.0cm, and the size deviation in the width direction (1/2 chest circumference, 1/2 waist circumference and shoulder width) of 60cm or less is not more than 0.5 cm. Furthermore, the inventor finds that the shrinkage rate of the three-phase weave piece woven by the single yarn with 44 metric counts is more stable.
For other weave structures involving spinning processes, wool with a low shrinkage, such as shrink-proof wool, may be used.
The weaving process of the present invention refers to a process of weaving yarns to obtain a fabric sheet, and the weaving process of the present invention includes preparing a triplanar fabric sheet. Considering that the density of the weaving piece is a key factor for ensuring the design conformity of the specification and the size of the finished product and the weight of the product, the size control of the machine unloading is mainly carried out by the pulling density and the gross length, and the pulling density is usually measured after being pulled apart by hand. In order to obtain the tri-planar tissue piece with more stable retraction rate, the invention preferably weaves the obtained tri-planar tissue piece to have 2.2-2.8cm/8 pieces of front surface densification and 2.1-2.5cm/10 meshes of back surface densification, furthermore, the tri-planar tissue piece has 2.4-2.8cm/8 pieces of front surface densification and 2.2-2.4cm/10 meshes of back surface densification. "front side draw-down of 2.2-2.8cm/8 counts" means that the fabric is pulled off in the cross direction, measuring the length of 8 knitted fabric to be 2.2-2.8 cm. "reverse bulk 2.1-2.5cm/10 mesh" means that the reverse side of the fabric is pulled apart longitudinally and the length of 10 rows of fabric is measured.
In some embodiments of the present invention, the size of the three-dimensional flat tissue piece obtained by weaving is (280-350) x (180-250) needle, and further (280-320) x (180-220) needle. The density of the fabric pieces of other weave structures is not particularly limited.
Further, in order to control the fulling effect more accurately, the invention carries out preshrinking experiments on the fabric slices made of each batch of yarns so as to determine the specific washing temperature and washing time when the wool knitted garment is fulled. The preshrinking experiment refers to the process of selecting an experimental fabric piece (the size is preferably 500mm multiplied by 500mm) to be put into an industrial washing machine for washing and fulling, and the invention determines proper washing temperature and time by measuring the sizes of the experimental fabric piece before and after fulling and calculating the area shrinkage rate. The area shrinkage of the tri-planar-structure fabric piece is preferably controlled to be 30-50%, preferably 30-48%, and more preferably the area shrinkage reaches about 45% to determine the optimal washing temperature and washing time, so as to guide the subsequent wool knitting garment felting process under the condition of the same bath ratio.
The invention utilizes the weaving process to obtain the knitted piece, and then the knitted piece is sleeved and sewed to obtain the ready-made clothes. The sewing of the weaving piece (or the cloth piece) mainly adopts a disc sewing machine. Different from the common sewing by a sewing machine, the looping sewing enables the splicing part of the fabric pieces to have certain elasticity, and the manufactured ready-made clothes have good compatibility and extensibility. The invention has certain requirements on the cuff density (the ratio of the cuff circumference before fulling) so as to more easily obtain the wool knitted fabric with smooth cloth surface, particularly the cuff seam.
And starting the garment fulling process to further obtain the wool knitted fabric with locally strong fulling. The garment fulling process comprises the steps of washing wool knitted garments obtained by sewing knitted pieces with different tissue structures through a looping by using heat treatment liquid, controlling the washing temperature to be 50-75 ℃, controlling the bath ratio to be 1:20-30, washing for 10-30 minutes, dewatering after washing, and drying to obtain the wool knitted fabrics with local strong fulling. In order to further reduce the energy consumption, the inventor researches the fulling condition of different textures, and further finds that for wool knitted garments with different textures, the washing temperature can be properly reduced on the basis of patent document 1, but the washing temperature is not too low, otherwise the fulling is incomplete, and the thickness of the garment is not uniform, and the washing temperature is 50-75 ℃, preferably 52-70 ℃. The temperature of the heat treatment liquid of the invention determines the washing temperature, the heat treatment liquid mainly takes hot water as main material, therefore, the temperature of the hot water, namely the washing temperature, can be selectively added with 2 to 3 small amounts of washing aids, such as smoothing agent, softening agent and the like, and the addition of the washing aids is mainly used for improving the hand feeling of fabrics. Smoothing agents, softeners, which may be amino silicone smoothing agents, collagen softeners, and the like, are commonly available commercially. In one embodiment of the present invention, the smoothing agent and the softening agent are added in an amount of 1 to 3:1000, preferably 1 to 2:1000, more preferably 1:1000, relative to the total weight of the hot water, without limitation. The washing temperature and the washing time of the invention are mainly determined by the preshrinking experiment of the woven piece obtained in the weaving process, and the washing time also comprehensively considers the weight of the ready-made clothes in the industrial automatic washing machine, and the washing time is usually 10-30 minutes, and further 15-25 minutes. The bath ratio is controlled to be 1:20-30, and the non-uniform fulling is easy to occur when the bath ratio is too large, the material consumption is too much, and the bath ratio is too small. In the invention, the processes of dehydration, drying and the like after washing have little influence on the retraction rate, the dehydration and the drying are both carried out by adopting the conventional method in the field, the dehydration is generally carried out for 5 to 10 minutes, the drying temperature is controlled to be 70 to 80 ℃, the temperature is too low, the drying is incomplete, the temperature is too high, and the ready-made clothes can be coked. After drying, simple high temperature ironing can be carried out as appropriate to ensure the plate shape. After the fulling process of the ready-made garment, the average area shrinkage of the three-flat-structure fabric piece in the wool knitted ready-made garment is more than 30%, and in some specific embodiments of the invention, more than 45% can be achieved.
In addition, the invention also provides the wool knitted fabric with local strong fulling prepared by the preparation process. The wool knitted fabric with the locally strong fulling comprises wool overcoat, trousers, a skirt, a woolen sweater, a scarf and the like which are suitable for being worn outside.
The invention is further illustrated, but not limited, by the following examples.
Examples
The present invention is described below by way of examples, which are not exhaustive, as those skilled in the art will appreciate that the examples are illustrative only.
The shrinkage is measured according to GB8628-88 test standard and method, because the size or area of the fabric or garment is reduced after the shrinkage, the absolute value of the size change percentage in the standard is taken as the shrinkage of the invention, and the reduction value is divided by the original value to obtain the shrinkage.
Research on milling condition of one-time and different-tissue-structure weaving pieces
Tri-planar tissue structure
Australian merino wool with the fiber fineness of 18.5 +/-0.3 mu m and the hair bundle length of more than 85mm is used as a raw material. 2/44NM (2 ply 44 metric count) wool is adopted to weave a three-flat weaving piece with 2.5cm/8 count on the front surface, 2.3cm/10 mesh on the back surface and 300 turns multiplied by 200 needles on a 12-needle flat knitting machine by 1 yarn. The prepared three-dimensional woven piece is 41cm long in lower machine size and 41cm wide, is placed in an industrial washing machine and washed by hot water at 55 ℃ for 15 minutes at a bath ratio of 1:25, is taken out on time, is dehydrated for 5 minutes, is placed in a 75 ℃ oven for drying, is placed on a platform, is observed in appearance, is measured in finished product length and width, and is calculated in area retraction rate.
The 20 weaves were tested repeatedly and the area retraction rate was calculated as shown in table 1.
TABLE 1 milling of Tri-planar tissue
1+1 rib weave structure
Australian merino wool with the fiber fineness of 18.5 +/-0.3 mu m and the hair bundle length of more than 85mm is used as a raw material. 2/44NM wool is used for weaving a 1+1 rib weave structure with the size of 100 turns multiplied by 150 needles on a 12-needle flat knitting machine, and the rib weave structure is drawn densely to 3cm/6 (6 rows of wale stitches, the drawn width is 3cm under the action of certain drawing force). The prepared 1+1 rib weave structure fabric piece is 20cm long in the lower machine size and 12cm wide, the fabric piece is placed in an industrial washing machine and washed by hot water at 55 ℃ for 15 minutes at a bath ratio of 1:25, the fabric piece is taken out on time, the fabric piece is dehydrated for 5 minutes, then the fabric piece is placed in an oven at 75 ℃ for drying, then the dried fabric piece is placed on a platform, the appearance of the dried fabric piece is observed, the length and the width of a finished product are measured, and the area retraction rate is calculated.
The 20 weaves were tested repeatedly and the area retraction rate was calculated as shown in table 2. The negative area retraction in table 2 is due to the finished width of the weave structure being rather stretched after fulling.
TABLE 21 +1 study of the fulling behavior of the rib weave Structure
Single face tissue
Australian merino wool with the fiber fineness of 18.5 +/-0.3 mu m and the hair bundle length of more than 85mm is used as a raw material. A single-side weave structure with the size of 150 turns multiplied by 200 needles is knitted by 2/44NM wool on a 12-needle flat knitting machine with 1 yarn, wherein the density of the single-side weave structure is 20, the height of the single-side weave structure is 3.2cm (the length of the knitted fabric is 3.2cm under the action of certain tensile force along the longitudinal direction of the knitted fabric and the number of 20 courses). The prepared single-side weave structure fabric piece is 32cm long in the lower machine size and 30cm wide, is placed in an industrial washing machine, is washed by hot water at 55 ℃ for 15 minutes at a bath ratio of 1:25, is taken out on time, is dehydrated for 5 minutes, is placed in a 75 ℃ oven to be dried, is placed on a platform, is observed in appearance, is measured in the length and width of a finished product, and is calculated in the area retraction rate.
Repeat 20 weaves and calculate the area retraction rate, see table 3.
TABLE 3 fulling behavior study of Single-sided texture
Second, study of the looper Density
Tri-planar tissue and twisted tissue collocation
Australian merino wool with the fiber fineness of 18.5 +/-0.3 mu m and the hair bundle length of more than 85mm is used as a raw material. 2/44NM wool is used to weave a three-piece fabric with 1 yarn on a 12-needle flat knitting machine, wherein the front surface of the fabric is drawn densely for 2.5cm/8, the back surface of the fabric is drawn densely for 2.3cm/10 meshes, and the size of the fabric is 300 turns and is multiplied by 200 needles. Another twisted piece is prepared, a piece of 2/48NM shrink-proof wool is used for weaving a piece of 34 needles by 58 turns on 6 yarns on a 7-needle flat knitting machine, the row needles are shown in a row needle diagram of fig. 5, and the outer edge of 4 drawn and dense drawn needles is drawn by 5cm (the width of a column between the 2 nd row needle and the 5 th row needle of an upper needle bed on the row needle diagram is drawn by a certain tensile force to be 5 cm).
The prepared three-woven piece had a lower machine size of 47cm in length and 34.7cm in width, and had a lower machine vertical density of 6.38K/cm (lower machine vertical density: number of woven piece revolutions/lower machine length) and a lateral density of 5.76N/cm (lower machine lateral density: number of woven piece needles/lower machine width). The matched twisted pieces (with the lower machine length of 21.8cm and the width of 9.4cm) are put together for fulling. The washing temperature was 70 ℃ and the washing time was 12 minutes, 1 to 20 bath ratio. The three-woven piece is felted until the size of the finished product reaches 30cm in length and 30cm in width, the vertical density of the finished product is 10K/cm, and the transverse density of the finished product is 6.67N/cm. When the tri-planar tissue piece is shrunk to the above size, the finished product of the twisted-pair tissue piece has the length of 20.1cm and the width of 9.4cm, the vertical density of the finished product is 2.89K/cm, and the transverse density of the finished product is 3.62N/cm.
The optimal matching pocket density in the three-plane length direction can be obtained according to the density, and the optimal matching pocket density is 30-turn stranded ropes corresponding to every 104-turn three-plane (104K/three-plane finished product vertical density multiplied by stranded rope finished product vertical density, namely the number of turns of stranded rope tissues under the same finished product length).
Tri-planar tissue and ribbing tissue collocation
Australian merino wool with the fiber fineness of 18.5 +/-0.3 mu m and the hair bundle length of more than 85mm is used as a raw material. 2/44NM wool is used to weave a three-flat fabric sheet with 8 pieces on the front surface and 2.5cm on the back surface, 10 meshes on the back surface and 2.3cm on a 12-needle flat knitting machine, and the size of the three-flat fabric sheet is 300 turns multiplied by 200 needles. Another piece of rib fabric is prepared, and a piece of 1+1 rib fabric with 40 stitches multiplied by 100 turns is woven on 4 yarns by a 7-stitch flat knitting machine by adopting 2/44NM wool, the drawn density is 4, the vertical column is drawn for 5cm, the lower machine length is 32cm, and the width is 8.9 cm.
The prepared three-textile piece has the length of 47cm and the width of 34.7cm, the vertical density of 6.38K/cm and the transverse density of 5.76N/cm. And putting the matched rib-weave pieces together for fulling. The washing temperature was 70 ℃ and the washing time was 12 minutes at a bath ratio of 1 to 20. The three-woven piece is felted until the size of the finished product reaches 30cm in length and 30cm in width, the vertical density of the finished product is 10K/cm, and the transverse density of the finished product is 6.67N/cm. When the three-dimensional tissue piece is shrunk to the size, the finished dimension of the rib tissue piece is 28cm in length and 8.5cm in width, the vertical density of the finished product is 3.57K/cm, and the transverse density of the finished product is 4.71N/cm.
The optimal matching cuff density in the length direction of the three planes can be obtained according to the density, and the optimal matching cuff density corresponds to 1+1 rib thread in 37 turns per 104 turns of the three planes.
Application example 1
Calculating a technology of a knitted pants designed by adopting the density of matching the three-flat and rib stitch (the cuff density is that three-flat per 104 turns corresponds to 1+1 rib stitches per 37 turns), weaving a fabric piece on a machine, and sewing according to the technology and a drawing to obtain a knitted pants garment, wherein the ratio of the three-flat stitch is 86%. Placing 500-600 g of knitted trouser ready-made clothes into an industrial washing machine to be washed by heat treatment liquid, wherein the washing temperature is 72 ℃, and the bath ratio is controlled to be 1: 25; the heat treatment liquid comprises hot water containing a smoothing agent and a softening agent at 72 ℃, and the addition amount of the smoothing agent and the softening agent relative to the total weight of the hot water is 1: 1000. The washing time was 15 minutes. Stirring for several times in the midway, and then putting the mixture into a dehydrator for dehydration for 5 minutes; and then, adjusting the temperature of the oven to 75 ℃, and putting the ready-made clothes into the oven for drying to obtain the wool knitted pants with local strong fulling.
Fig. 1 is a comparison of the appearance of a knitted pant before and after fulling (the left side is a garment of the knitted pant before fulling, and the right side is a finished knitted pant after fulling), and fig. 2 is a partial enlarged view of a three-flat-stitch and rib-stitch cuff seam before and after fulling (the left side is before fulling, and the right side is after fulling). As can be seen from FIG. 1, the ready-made garment has significant shrinkage before and after washing, and as can be seen from FIG. 2, the looper stitching becomes very flat after fulling.
Comparative application example 1
Changing the cuff density to correspond to 40-turn rib stitch tissue per 104-turn three-flat stitch tissue, sewing the three-flat stitch tissue and the rib stitch tissue adopted in the application example 1 together, and washing and drying the sewn fabric piece by adopting the washing and drying conditions of the application example 1. FIG. 3 is an enlarged partial view of tri-planar and rib stitch cuff stitches before and after fulling. It can be seen that there was a few wrinkles at the cuff seam.
Comparative application example 2
Changing the cuff density to correspond to 18-turn rib tissues every 104 turns of the tri-planar tissues, sewing the tri-planar tissues and the rib tissues adopted in the application example 1 together, and washing and drying the sewn fabric piece by adopting the washing and drying conditions of the application example 1. FIG. 4 is an enlarged partial view of tri-planar and rib stitch cuff stitches before and after fulling. It can be seen that the cuff seam appears significantly wrinkled.
The above examples are intended only to illustrate several embodiments of the present invention, which are described in more detail and detail, but are not to be construed as imposing any limitation on the scope of the present invention. It should be clear that a person skilled in the art can make several variations and modifications without departing from the inventive concept, which fall within the scope of protection of the present invention.
Claims (4)
1. The wool knitted fabric with the locally strong fulling is characterized in that:
the wool knitted fabric comprises at least two weave structures, wherein the first weave structure is a tri-planar weave which accounts for more than 50% of the total area of the wool knitted fabric; the area shrinkage rate of the tri-planar tissue after fulling treatment is not lower than 30%;
the three-dimensional plain weave is obtained by weaving 25-44 metric single yarn with 1 yarn on a 12-needle flat knitting machine, the adopted wool is thin wool with the diameter below 24 mu m and the tuft length of 5.5-12cm, the front surface of a weaving piece of the three-dimensional plain weave is densely drawn by 2.2-2.8cm/8, and the back surface of the weaving piece of the three-dimensional plain weave is densely drawn by 2.1-2.5cm/10 meshes;
the other tissue structure except the tri-planar tissue is selected from rib tissue or twisted tissue;
when the other tissue structures are selected from rib tissues, the sleeve opening density in the length direction of the tri-planar tissues before the garment fulling process is that 30-39 turns of rib tissues correspond to every 104 turns of tri-planar tissues; the rib stitch is a 1+1 rib stitch woven by adopting 2/44NM wool on 4 yarns of a 7-needle flat knitting machine;
when the other tissue structures are selected from the twisted flower tissues, the looping density in the length direction of the three-flat tissues before the garment fulling process is 20-32 turns of twisted flower tissues corresponding to every 104 turns of the three-flat tissues; the hank weave is a hank weave which is weaved by adopting 2/48NM shrink-proof wool on a 7-needle flat knitting machine by using 6 yarns.
2. A method for preparing a partially fulling wool knitted fabric according to claim 1, which comprises a spinning process, a weaving process, and a garment fulling process.
3. The method of producing a partially fulling wool knitted fabric according to claim 2, characterized in that:
the three-dimensional tissue piece is 280-350 turns x 180-250 needles.
4. The method of producing a partially fulling wool knitted fabric according to claim 2 or 3, characterized in that:
the garment fulling process comprises the steps of washing wool knitted garments obtained by sewing knitted pieces with different tissue structures through a looping by using heat treatment liquid, controlling the washing temperature to be 50-75 ℃, controlling the bath ratio to be 1:20-30, washing for 10-30 minutes, dewatering and drying after washing to obtain the wool knitted fabrics with local strong fulling.
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