CN113089172A - Knitted shirt fabric with mesh structure and manufacturing method thereof - Google Patents
Knitted shirt fabric with mesh structure and manufacturing method thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN113089172A CN113089172A CN202110223926.7A CN202110223926A CN113089172A CN 113089172 A CN113089172 A CN 113089172A CN 202110223926 A CN202110223926 A CN 202110223926A CN 113089172 A CN113089172 A CN 113089172A
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
- D04B1/102—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
- D04B1/104—Openwork fabric, e.g. pelerine fabrics
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
- D01D—MECHANICAL METHODS OR APPARATUS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS
- D01D5/00—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like
- D01D5/24—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like with a hollow structure; Spinnerette packs therefor
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
- D02G3/32—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
- D02G3/328—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic containing elastane
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
- D04B1/12—Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
- D04B1/18—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials elastic threads
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/20—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
- D10B2201/22—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres made from cellulose solutions
- D10B2201/24—Viscose
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/02—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyamides
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/10—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyurethanes
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2401/00—Physical properties
- D10B2401/06—Load-responsive characteristics
- D10B2401/061—Load-responsive characteristics elastic
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
- Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
Abstract
The invention discloses a knitted mesh structure shirt fabric and a manufacturing method thereof, wherein a fabric body of the shirt fabric is formed by interweaving viscose covered yarns and polyamide monofilament yarns, the viscose covered yarns are viscose filament yarn-covered spandex yarns, and the fabric body comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 50-55% of viscose, 10-16% of spandex and 30-35% of chinlon; the preparation method of the shirt fabric comprises the steps of yarn count raw material selection, a weaving process, dyeing pretreatment, a dyeing process and a post setting process. The shirt fabric is elegant and glossy, stiff and smooth in hand feeling, comfortable and elastic, crease-resistant and environment-friendly, and compact and stable in texture. The preparation method of the knitted mesh structure shirt fabric can effectively solve the technical problems that the shrinkage stability, the pilling resistance, the appearance luster, the stiff and smooth hand feeling and the like of the common knitted shirt fabric cannot be compatible. The fabric of the invention is not limited to shirt fabric, and can be used for knitted T-shirts, POLO shirts, knitted trousers, knitted skirts and the like.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of knitted fabric production, in particular to knitted mesh structure shirt fabric and a manufacturing method thereof.
Background
With the rapid development of social economy and the increasing improvement of the living standard of people, people have higher and higher requirements on the comfort and the functionality of daily clothes, in addition to the basic cold-proof and warm-keeping functions, especially for shirts worn next to the skin. Most shirt products are usually made of woven (woven) fabrics, but in practice knitted fabrics are more prominent than woven fabrics in terms of softness and comfort, especially on shirt goods. The fabrics commonly adopted by knitted shirts in the current market are mainly as follows: chemical fiber filament warp-knitted cloth, cotton high-count high-density needle-pitch knitted double-sided cloth, viscose nylon or viscose terylene elastic Roman cloth and the like, and partial advantages of the fabrics are suitable for making shirts, but the performances are still not comprehensive and comprehensive enough, and various defects and deficiencies exist in wearing, production and processing, and are mainly reflected in that:
(1) the chemical fiber filament warp-knitted fabric has good texture and luster, dry, comfortable and stiff hand feeling, is suitable for being used as a shirt, has good air permeability of a mesh structure, but the chemical fiber basically has no hydrophile and moisture absorption, is easy to generate static electricity and absorb dust when being worn, and is basically a non-environment-friendly regenerated raw material;
(2) the cotton knitted fabric is skin-friendly and soft, and is good in wearing comfort performance, but when the cotton knitted fabric is used for making shirts, high count yarns and high density needle pitches are needed to improve stiffness and smoothness, and the appearance luster is needed to be improved through after-finishing mercerization, but in production practice, high count and high density cloth varieties are easy to generate risks such as mercerization holes and scratches;
(3) conventional viscose nylon elasticity roman cloth feels compliance moderate, and the moisture absorption gas permeability can be better, and is closely knit stiff than ordinary cotton class knitting two-sided cloth kind, more is fit for doing the shirt, generally adopts 28G gauge needle circular knitting machine production, but the surface fabric texture is thicker and heavier, and easy fluff balling-up in addition, latent shrinkage rate risk is also great, and it is more difficult that the shrinkage rate control is within 5%, and the whole frameless of surface fabric lacks the stiff and smooth of tatting surface fabric and feels.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to solve the technical problem of providing a knitted shirt fabric with a mesh structure and a manufacturing method thereof, wherein the knitted shirt fabric has the advantages of elegant luster, stiff and smooth hand feeling, comfortable elasticity, crease resistance, shape retention and compact and stable texture.
The viscose material belongs to regenerated cellulose fiber, has good moisture absorption and skin affinity, is softer than cotton, is easy to pill, has low wet strength and is not wear-resistant; the wear resistance and the moisture absorption performance of the nylon are better than those of the polyester, but the hydrophilicity is much poorer than that of the cellulose fiber, the common viscose nylon Roman cloth adopts two fiber materials of viscose staple fiber and nylon filament to match, the wearing comfort performance requirements of common clothes can be basically met, but when the nylon Roman cloth is used for knitting shirts, the appearance stiffness and smoothness have certain difference, the high-count viscose staple fiber yarn strength is lower, and the fabric stability is poorer, so the invention adopts the following improved fabric yarn count combination and the manufacturing method.
The technical scheme adopted by the invention for solving the technical problems is as follows: the knitted shirt fabric with the mesh structure comprises a fabric body, wherein the fabric body is formed by interweaving viscose covered yarns and nylon monofilament yarns, the viscose covered yarns are viscose filament yarn-covered spandex yarns, and the fabric body comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 50-55% of viscose, 10-16% of spandex and 30-35% of chinlon.
According to the knitted shirt fabric with the mesh structure, elasticity is obtained by wrapping spandex filaments with the viscose filaments, the viscose-coated yarns are knitted on the surface in the knitting process, and the loops can be contracted more tightly.
Preferably, the viscose coated yarns are 50-120D viscose filament yarns wrapped with 30-50D spandex yarns, the nylon single-hole yarns are 20-50D/1F nylon single-hole yarns, and the gram weight of the fabric body is 180-200 g/m-2. The viscose filament yarn of 50-120D has moderate thickness, has more advantages in appearance gloss and stability than a structure of common Roman cloth in which viscose staple fiber and nylon filament yarn are used in a matching way, can meet the performance requirements of knitted shirt fabric such as hand feeling gloss by replacing the viscose staple fiber with the viscose filament yarn, and realizes the elasticity, stable strength, wear resistance and crease resistance of the fabric by matching with differentiated functional fibers such as spandex yarn and nylon monofilament yarn. And the viscose filament yarn of 150D needs a 24G needle cylinder, the texture and the texture of the fabric are not fine enough, and the raw material strength of the viscose filament yarn of less than 50D and the bursting strength of the finished fabric are risky.
The manufacturing method of the knitted mesh structure shirt fabric comprises the steps of yarn count raw material selection, a knitting process, dyeing pretreatment, a dyeing process and post setting and shaping process.
Preferably, in the knitting step, the fabric body is knitted by a 36G circular knitting machine, the knitting needles are arranged to knit the interlock stitch at 1F and 2F, the dial needle at 3F is not operated, the cylinder stitch and the tuck stitch are alternately knitted, the cylinder at 4F is not knitted, and the dial stitch and the tuck stitch are alternately knitted. Different from the structure of common Roman cloth, the invention forms a regular honeycomb mesh texture structure on the cloth surface through the weaving process, and the air permeability of the fabric is better than that of the fabric of common Roman cloth.
Preferably, in the dyeing pretreatment, the fabric obtained by weaving is subjected to pre-setting treatment, and then is cleaned, refined and bleached, so that oil stains and impurities on the polyamide monofilament yarns are removed, and the dyeing process is facilitated.
Preferably, the temperature of the pre-setting treatment is 180-190 ℃, the vehicle speed is 15-20m/min, the overfeed amount is 20-25%, and the expansion rate is 4-6%. Because the viscose coated yarn is viscose filament yarn coated spandex yarn, the shrinkage internal stress is large, the overfeed amount needs to be increased to 20-25%, and the temperature of the pre-setting treatment cannot exceed 190 ℃.
Preferably, the dyeing process adopts a two-step dyeing method, namely: coloring the viscose components, dyeing the chinlon, and soaping.
Preferably, before the post-setting molding process, the fabric is pre-dried, and the moisture content is controlled to be 20-30%; then, the post-setting molding process is carried out, the molding temperature is 110-. The moisture content of the fabric is controlled to be 20-30% through pre-drying treatment, at the moment, the chinlon single-hole yarns basically do not contain moisture, and the fabric can be ensured to achieve the optimal balance between the hand feeling, appearance and physical properties by shaping under the moisture content condition. The reason is that if the fabric is shaped under the wet state with the moisture content of more than 30 percent, the chinlon becomes soft and can not play the rigid characteristic of the single-hole filament, so that the integral hand feeling of the fabric loses stiffness and smoothness, the viscose filament is directly shaped when the moisture content is too much, water mark is easy to generate on the cloth surface, and under the dry-state shaping condition with the moisture content of less than 20 percent, the viscose filament is easy to abrade and raise the fuzz, so that the smooth and clean effect of the cloth surface is influenced, and the moisture content of the fabric is finally controlled to be 20-30 percent through the pre-drying treatment. In addition, because the shrinkage of the fabric is basically controlled in the pre-setting treatment stage, and the problems of crease marks and the like on the fabric surface are eliminated, the temperature of the post-setting procedure is not required to be too high, and the problem of color fastness such as dyeing is caused by too high temperature, so the setting temperature of the post-setting procedure is preferably controlled at 110-120 ℃ and cannot exceed 120 ℃.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following advantages:
1. the knitted shirt fabric with the mesh structure can obtain the following effects through specific yarn count combination: firstly, the strength of the fabric is improved: the viscose filament yarn can obtain higher elongation at break and breaking strength by coating spandex yarn, so that the production and weaving of grey cloth are facilitated, the strength of the nylon monofilament yarn is high, and the qualification of the overall strength performance of the fabric can be ensured; secondly, improving shrinkage and pilling of the fabric: the nylon monofilament has good wear resistance, the viscose filament yarn has smooth appearance, the pilling risk can be reduced compared with viscose staple fiber, the gloss sense is stronger, and meanwhile, the fabric has compact texture and good dimensional stability; thirdly, the stiffness of the fabric is improved: the selected nylon monofilament yarns have strong bending resistance, dry, comfortable and stiff fabric hand feeling, obvious skeleton, flexibility and rigidity, and can effectively improve the overall stiffness, smoothness, crease resistance and shape retention of the fabric; fourthly, improving the elasticity and shape retention of the fabric: by adding high proportion of spandex, the specific gravity content is higher than 10%, the fabric obtains good elasticity, and simultaneously, the hand feeling compactness and the elasticity resilience can be improved, so that the wearing and the moving are ensured to be free. The knitted shirt fabric with the mesh structure is a fabric which has elegant luster, stiff and smooth hand feeling, comfortable elasticity, crease resistance, shape retention and compact and stable texture.
2. The preparation method of the knitted mesh structure shirt fabric can effectively solve the technical problems that the shrinkage stability, the pilling resistance, the appearance luster, the stiff and smooth hand feeling and the like of the common knitted shirt fabric cannot be compatible.
3. The fabric of the invention is not limited to shirt fabric, and can be used for knitted T-shirts, POLO shirts, knitted trousers, knitted skirts and the like.
Drawings
Fig. 1 is a view of a knitted loop of a knitted shirt fabric with a mesh structure according to the present invention.
Detailed Description
The invention is described in further detail below with reference to the accompanying examples.
Example 1: a knitted shirt fabric with mesh structure comprises a shirt fabric with a gram weight of 190g/m2The fabric body is formed by interweaving viscose covered yarns and nylon monofilament yarns, the viscose covered yarns are 75D viscose filament yarns and 30D spandex yarns, the nylon monofilament yarns are 30D/1F nylon monofilament yarns, and the fabric body comprises the following components in percentage by mass: adhesive glue53 percent, 14 percent of spandex and 33 percent of chinlon.
Example 2: the method for producing a knitted mesh-structured shirt fabric according to example 1 includes a yarn count raw material selection step, a knitting step, a pre-dyeing treatment step, a dyeing step, and a finishing and sizing step, wherein:
in the knitting process, a 36G double-sided circular knitting machine is used for knitting the fabric body, knitting needles are arranged to knit a 1F-th and a 2F-th rib texture, a 3F-th dial knitting needle does not work, needle cylinder looping and tucking are alternately knitted, a 4F-th needle cylinder is not knitted, needle cylinder looping and tucking are alternately knitted, and a knitting coil diagram is shown in figure 1;
in the dyeing pretreatment, the gray fabric obtained by weaving is pre-shaped at 190 ℃, the speed is 20m/min, the overfeed amount is 25 percent, the spreading rate is 5 percent, and the gray fabric is cleaned, refined and bleached after the pre-shaped treatment and is rinsed to remove oil;
the dyeing procedure adopts a two-step dyeing method to dye black, namely: coloring the viscose component, dyeing the chinlon, and soaping;
before the post-setting shaping process, pre-drying and shaping the fabric, and controlling the moisture content to be 25%; and then carrying out post-setting molding process, wherein the molding temperature is 115 ℃, the vehicle speed is 25m/min, and the overfeeding amount is 30%.
The knitted mesh-structured shirt fabric of example 1 was a black shirt fabric, and the data of the detection results thereof are shown in table 1.
Table 1 data of the test results of the knitted mesh structure shirt fabric of example 1
Claims (8)
1. The knitted shirt fabric with the mesh structure comprises a fabric body and is characterized in that the fabric body is formed by interweaving viscose covered yarns and polyamide monofilament yarns, the viscose covered yarns are viscose filament yarn-covered spandex yarns, and the fabric body comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 50-55% of viscose, 10-16% of spandex and 30-35% of chinlon.
2. The knitted mesh shirt fabric according to claim 1, wherein the viscose covered yarns are 50-120D viscose filament yarns wrapped with 30-50D spandex yarns, the nylon monofilament yarns are 20-50D/1F nylon monofilament yarns, and the fabric body has a gram weight of 180-2。
3. The method of producing a knitted mesh-structured shirt fabric according to claim 1 or 2, characterized by comprising selection of yarn count raw material, knitting step, pre-dyeing treatment, dyeing step, and post-setting step.
4. The method of manufacturing a knitted mesh-structured shirt fabric according to claim 3, wherein in the knitting step, the fabric body is knitted by a 36G double-sided circular knitting machine, knitting needles are arranged so that the 1F and 2F knitted interlock stitches, the 3F dial knitting needle does not operate, needle cylinder knitting and tuck knitting are alternately performed, the 4F needle cylinder is not knitted, and needle dial knitting and tuck knitting are alternately performed.
5. The method of manufacturing a shirt fabric with a knitted mesh structure according to claim 3, wherein the pre-dyeing treatment comprises a pre-setting treatment of the knitted fabric, followed by washing, scouring and bleaching.
6. The method for preparing a knitted mesh shirt fabric according to claim 5, wherein the temperature of the pre-setting treatment is 180-.
7. A method of manufacturing a knitted mesh shirt fabric according to claim 3, characterized in that the dyeing process employs a two-step dyeing method, namely: coloring the viscose components, dyeing the chinlon, and soaping.
8. The method for preparing a knitted shirt fabric with a mesh structure according to claim 3, wherein the fabric is subjected to pre-baking and shaping treatment before the post-setting shaping process, and the moisture content is controlled to be 20-30%; then, the post-setting molding process is carried out, the molding temperature is 110-.
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Cited By (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN114990768A (en) * | 2022-06-28 | 2022-09-02 | 广东溢达纺织有限公司 | High-needle double-sided mesh jacquard fabric and manufacturing method thereof |
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| 马秀凤等: "粘胶/氨纶包覆纱的纺制及其成纱性能分析", 《第十三届全国新型纺纱学术会论文集》 * |
Cited By (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN114990768A (en) * | 2022-06-28 | 2022-09-02 | 广东溢达纺织有限公司 | High-needle double-sided mesh jacquard fabric and manufacturing method thereof |
| CN114990768B (en) * | 2022-06-28 | 2023-05-02 | 广东溢达纺织有限公司 | High-needle double-sided mesh jacquard fabric and manufacturing method thereof |
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