CN106012214B - Jacquard weave cellulose acetate filament man textile fabric and its production method - Google Patents

Abstract

A kind of jacquard weave cellulose acetate filament man's textile fabric, warp thread is semi-dull polyester filament, 50D/72F, through it is close be 200 pieces/inch；Weft yarn is cellulose acetate filament, and 75D, filling density is 96.5 pieces/inch；It is organized as big Developing of Jacquard Weave.Fabric width is 160cm.The fabric plus material producing method, step includes：1) weave：The silk machine starching → of warping machine warping → slurry and gait through machine and axle → splitting machine leasing → → rapier jacquard loom weaves；2) dye：Debatching → desizing → dyeing → dehydration → open-width → setting.This fabric is smooth fine and closely woven, and cloth cover is smooth, soft, frivolous and have cool feeling, quick-drying washable, and color fastness is strong, good permeability, soft elegant.Trial-produceing successfully for the product will further meet the demand that people comfortably feel nice and cool to home textile summer cool quilt fabric, and with higher added value and wide market prospects, economic and social benefit is notable.

Description

Jacquard weave cellulose acetate filament man textile fabric and its production method

Technical field

The invention belongs to textile technology field, specifically a kind of jacquard weave cellulose acetate filament man textile fabric and its production method.

Background technology

More than the 85% of world's cellulose acetate filament output is given birth to by the major company of the U.S., Italy, Britain, Japan and other countries Production.Asia cellulose acetate filament production company is concentrated mainly on Japan and South Korea.The yield of cellulose acetate filament is 2.53 ten thousand at most with North America Ton/year, account for the 34.7% of the world；Next to that 1.43 ten thousand tons/year of Japan, accounts for the 19.6% of the world；In recent years, South Korea's cellulose acetate filament Production capacity greatly improve.SK groups of South Korea are on the basis of existing 0.8 ten thousand tons/year of cellulose acetate filament production capacities, 2010 and the U.S. Eastman cooperates, in the cellulose acetate filament processing factory that South Korea's construction scale is 2.7 ten thousand tons/year.And such as Pakistan of other countries, The states such as Lithuania, Argentina also produce acetate fiber, but underproduce 0.5 ten thousand tons/year.

The absolute market share of traditional acetate fiber in occupation of high-quality suit and fashionable dress lining.20 end of the centurys, by acetic acid The high-grade fabric of long filament manufacture is shown up prominently in field of textiles.In the Italy that clothing industry is flourishing, its weaving acetic acid In the consumption of long filament, high-grade fabric occupies 31.1%, and lining accounts for 35.2%, and ornamental textile accounts for 27%.In recent years, vinegar Sour long filament new product, the research and development of new technology are by extensive concern in the industry, for example:Italian Novaceta companies The mould proof cellulose acetate filaments of 84dtex/23F and 167dtex/38F " silfresh " have been put on market；The spinning of Eastman companies of the U.S. Preceding coloring cellulose acetate filament has the series of products such as 84dtex/19F and 330dtex/76F；" Ventcoal " two-component of Mitsubishi Fiber is to select secondary cellulose acetate sheets and three vinegar sheets to be raw material, is made through composite spinning, the bulkiness of its crimpness and fabric has The function of being adjusted with the change of ambient humidity；The nanometer acetate fiber in the U.S. has resistance to fungi, is preferable protective clothes Fabric；Chulalongkorn universities of Thailand are by the nanometer acetate fiber net of electrostatic spinning, available for tissue engineering bracket material Material, decoction control induction system and wound wrapping.

Just because of the emergence of cellulose acetate filament new varieties, the application of cellulose acetate filament also constantly expands.Acetate fiber Birth is trial-produceed successfully by Britain in early 1920s and realizes industrialized production, is to be only second to glue in cellulose fibre at present The second largest kind of glue fiber.It using acetic acid and cellulose is raw material through staple fibre made from esterification that acetate fiber, which is,.

Cellulose acetate filament most exactly likes silk in chemical fibre, with good drapability, thermoplasticity, dimensional stability.Vinegar Although sour fiber derives from cellulose, in esterification process, the polar hydroxyl groups on cellulose glucose ring are greatly Ester is replaced to by acetyl group, therefore, the conventional dyestuff Dichlorodiphenyl Acetate fiber of cellulose dyeing is almost without affinity, it is difficult on Dye, moreover, acetate fiber strength is at a fairly low, does only 1.1-1.2cN/dtex by force, warp thread is used as in weaving certain difficulty Degree.For many years, acetate fiber material fabric is confined always is used in lining.

The producing scientific research unit of China also carried out lab scale and the pilot scale of cellulose acetate and cellulose acetate filament, but was due to one A little technical problems, make this research work fail to continue deeper into progress.Weaving for a long time still all relied on cellulose acetate filament into Mouthful, Celanese companies, this safe company of Britain, La Nisi companies of Canada and Mitsubishi vinegar mainly from the U.S. is fine public Take charge of import.

The content of the invention

Problems present in family's textile fabric are applied in order to solve cellulose acetate filament in the prior art, the present invention proposes one The new jacquard weave cellulose acetate filament man textile fabric of kind and its production method, it is specific as follows：

A kind of jacquard weave cellulose acetate filament man's textile fabric, warp thread is semi-dull polyester filament, 50D/72F, through it is close be 200/English It is very little；Weft yarn is cellulose acetate filament, and 75D, filling density is 96.5 pieces/inch；It is organized as big Developing of Jacquard Weave.Fabric width is 160cm.

A kind of production method of the fabric, step includes：

1) weave：The silk machine starching → of warping machine warping → slurry is simultaneously gaited → arrow shaft jacquard weave through machine and axle → splitting machine leasing → Loom is weaved；

2) dye：Debatching → desizing → dyeing → dehydration → open-width → setting；

The step 1) in,

The step 1) in,

Warping machine warping is required to include：Total warping radical is 24520, wherein Side End Number 60 × 2；Warping radical It is 1680；Speed is 280m/min；Coiling tension is 10/16kg；Bobbin cradle tension force is 7g；

Slurry silk machine starches requiring to include for silk：Unwinding tension is 18kg；Coiling tension is 23kg；Soaking paste roller pressure is 3.5kg； Squeezing roller pressure is 3.0kg/2.5kg/3.0kg；53 DEG C of slurry groove temperature；Drying room tension force is 15g；Drying room temperature is 155 DEG C/150 ℃；Cylinder temperature is 140 DEG C/135 DEG C/130 DEG C/125 DEG C/120 DEG C；

Recipe requirements of sizing mixing are：SHH-3020 type polyester filament special sizing agents (consumption is according to product description)；It is antistatic Agent (no particular requirement, using conventional product, consumption is according to product description)；Anti-friction agent (no particular requirement, using conventional Product, consumption is according to product description)；Slurry temperature is 98~100 DEG C；Concentration of slurry is 10%；

And requiring to include through machine and axle：Speed is 60m/min；It is 15kg × 14 to move back solution tension force；Winding tension is 200kg；Taper is 3%；And the axle number of axle is 14；

What drawing-in machine was gaited requires to include：Porter is that (tooth/2 inch) are 96#；Reed width is 128 inches；Ground tissue is comprehensive to wear method It is suitable wear；The comprehensive method of wearing of Selvage Stitch is suitable wears；Ground tissue it is comprehensive enter number be 1；Selvage Stitch it is comprehensive enter number be 2；It is 4 that ground tissue reed, which enters number,；Side It is 4 that tissue reed, which enters number,；The menopause tablet method of wearing is 1,2,3,4,5,6；Using plastic heddle；

Rapier jacquard loom is woven to be required to include：Speed is 200rpm；Upper machine filling density is 96 pieces/inch；Be open pattern It is electronic jacquard；Opening time is 312 degree；The main jet time is 70 degree；Back beam height is -5mm；Warp stop frame height is 1 lattice；In advance Plus tension force is 315kg；Temple pad is 4mm；Main jet pressure is 4MP；The auxiliary power of spraying is 4.5MP；Temperature and relative humidity difference It is 23 DEG C~27 DEG C and 68%~74%；

The step 2) in,

Desizing is required to include：Chelating agent, sodium dihydrogen phosphate and anionic, net lotion are added in desizing liquid, and is used HS-211A type desizing refining agent, abundant desizing is carried out at 98 DEG C of temperature；Use detergent 209 as bleeding agent in temperature again 90 DEG C~80 DEG C are fully soaped；Then through 70 DEG C~50 DEG C hot water wash；Last cold water is washed；

That dyes requires to include：Dye liquor pH value is 5~6, and progressively heating is dyed；Dye temperature is played since 40 DEG C, so 1 DEG C per minute of speed is progressively warming up to 85 DEG C afterwards, renews dye 50 minutes；

The dyestuff of dye liquor is disperse dyes；Dispersant NNO, N,N-dimethylformamide, glacial acetic acid, ammonia are added in dye liquor Water, anhydrous sodium sulfate, sodium carbonate and levelling agent, it is ensured that the pH value of dye liquor is 5~6；

Qualitatively require to include：Shaped using hot blast stentering boarding machine, setting temperature is 140 DEG C, and fixing time is 60s.

High-grade jacquard weave cellulose acetate filament man's textile fabric of the present invention, is intended to consider for health of people, from the terylene of high-quality Long filament makees warp thread, and cellulose acetate filament is as weft yarn, through weaving, and dyeing Final finishing is processed.Acetate fiber it both had it is natural fine The speciality of dimension, while having the function of synthetic fibers again, have good color forming property, good feel, the gloss as superior silk With graceful pendency sense.Additionally there are the easy-care properties of synthetic fibers.Interweaved with acetate fibre filament and terylene semi-dull long filament The fabric being made into has gloss naturally luxurious as silk, soft smooth.Acetate fiber is the comfortable of non-polluting renewable Its abundance of property fiber, can be with rapid regeneration, and production procedure is short, will not produce " three wastes " of environmental pollution.Acetic acid The development prospect of fiber worldwide is wide, is the following environmental protection fiber for being possible to replace viscose rayon.The present invention High-grade jacquard weave cellulose acetate filament man's textile fabric, the fabric is smooth fine and closely woven, and cloth cover is smooth, soft, frivolous and have cool feeling, washable Quick-drying, color fastness is strong, good permeability, soft elegant.Trial-produceing successfully for the product will further meet people to home textile summer cool quilt The demand that fabric is comfortably felt nice and cool, with higher added value and wide market prospects, economic and social benefit is notable.

The present invention principle be：

The main research and key problem in technology of the present invention

1st, weaving process parameter is studied, it is ensured that functional fiber performance is not lost.Study and how to reduce in weaving process The small and uniform and certain weaving efficiency of broken end, guarantee warp tension.

2nd, dyeing fabric technology is studied.Select suitable desizing process and dyeing, it is ensured that while dye-uptake, Ensure uniform and color the vividness of cloth cover colouring.

3rd, fabric postfinishing process technology is studied.Select suitable setting temperature and auxiliary agent, it is ensured that the feel and work(of fabric Energy.

After testing, fabric quality of the invention：Meet GB18401-2010《National textile product basic security technology rule Model》B category alignment requests, top-quality product rate is up to 100%.

Acetate fiber is that spinning is formed after acetylation by cellulose pulp.It is currently only secondary in regenerated celulose fibre In the second largest kind of viscose rayon, also known as acetate fiber.The acetate fiber of early stage is difficult with dyestuff due to common natural fiber Make it somewhat limited in the application of field of textiles to be dyed to it, and the filter tip as cigarette, plastic products, medical system more Product, chemical industry tow etc..

Acetate fiber function admirable itself, soft, the soft elegance of gloss, drapability is good, there is certain hygroscopicity, tool There is the speciality of similar silk；Meanwhile, have that synthetic fibers are stiffening, the smooth, characteristic of anti-mould and anti-moth again.With textile process technology Make rapid progress, fabric that cellulose acetate filament interweaves with terylene, quality are frivolous, with good feel and gas permeability.

The density ratio viscose rayon of acetate fiber it is small, and terylene is closer to, and intensity is minimum in three kinds of fibers 's.Loss of strength under hygrometric state is larger, and residual intensity is about to do strong 70%, and the wet strength of viscose glue is similar.Therefore, exist Gentle mode must be taken when the stretching of acetate fiber and wet-milling product, but the extension at break of acetate fiber is compared with viscose glue It is high, extended under hygrometric state bigger.Therefore, the elasticity of acetate fiber is relatively preferable, similar to silk, wool.Boiling water shrinkage compared with It is low, but high-temperature process can be impacted to performances such as the strengths and gloss of fiber, therefore temperature is no more than 85 DEG C.Regain To be less than viscose rayon, but significantly larger than polyester fiber, between viscose glue and polyester, that is to say, that acetate fiber both had Certain water imbibition, has the performance quickly sloughed after water suction again.The softening temperature and fusing point of acetate fiber are compared with polyester It is that dry heat treatment under close, the hot property with similar synthetic fibers, relaxation condition will not be impacted to the performance of fiber.

In the prior art, because the regain of cellulose acetate filament is low and silk pulp grinder technology is unqualified, the quality of its silk product can not It is satisfactory, along with people at that time be to the consumption concept of textile based on durable, and the intensity of cellulose acetate filament compared with Low, fabric does not reach the use requirement of consumer.

Because acetate fiber has a series of premium properties, it is widely used in people's lives and each neck of social economy Domain.Acetate fiber moisture pick-up properties is good, and regain is 6%, can use disperse dyeing, and have good wears performance.Acetic acid The chopped fiber of fiber filament is used for and cotton, wool or synthetic fibers blending, but intensity decreases 40%~50%, fiber under hygrometric state Start deformation at 140~150 DEG C, 176 DEG C bond.

High-grade jacquard weave cellulose acetate filament man's textile fabric of the present invention, its warp thread selects polyester filament, and weft yarn selects cellulose acetate filament, Weaved by rapier jacquard loom, dyeing and Final finishing are processed.The raw materials for production of trial-production are：Polyester filament, cellulose acetate filament； The production equipment of trial-production：The warping machine of Tianjin field coltfoal 500, warp sizing machine, warp rebeaming machine, GA177 drawing-in machines, the special arrow shaft of ZAX9100 Russia and the U.S.s carry Flower loom etc..

Product weave specification

The warp thread of this fabric be semi-dull gently net low bullet polyester filament 50D/72F, through it is close be 200 pieces/inch, weft yarn is vinegar Sour long filament 75D, filling density is 96.5 pieces/inch, big Developing of Jacquard Weave is organized as, by through weft yarn raw material, yarn count, weft density and group Mutual cooperation is knitted, cloth cover is maximized favourable factors and minimized unfavourable ones, Fabric width is 160cm.

Weaving process

Because warp thread is light net dacron thread, preceding production technology of knitting is using whole slurry and process route, and warping process is using in batches Warping method, each axle distinguishes sizing, carries out again afterwards and axle, strict technology is all taken in each operation prepared beam of a loom Measure.The uniformity of the good piece yarn tension of priority control during warping；Starching is carried out from suitable slurry when starching silk, starching is suitably heightened Rate；Occur in addition to reduce electrostatic in production with lousiness, should strictly control the humiture of preparation house, it is ensured that end-and-end lease is clear Chu, fabric causes the fabric to be rubbed in weaving process, drawing numbers is significantly greater than generally conventional kind through close larger, And then cause to occur warp thread fluffing in weaving process, play the phenomenons such as electrostatic, fracture.

Dyeing and finishing process

Due to high-grade jacquard weave cellulose acetate filament man's textile fabric, suitable desizing agent is selected, can thoroughly remove and decomposed on fabric Various slurries, and prevent its time to be stained with fabric and equipment, can effectively prevent and reduce slime spots, color dot etc. because of the unnet institute of desizing The generation of caused various defects, provides safeguard to improve product quality.Dyeing and finishing process should take related technical measures, such as Select suitable desizing agent；Select the disperse dyes of enhancing, compatibility, reappearance and good color fastness；Add and close in dye liquor Suitable levelling agent is to improve level-dyeing property；Using overflow dyeing machine, process conditions are strictly controlled, to ensure dyeing quality.

Embodiment

The energy consumptions such as water, electricity, the steam of acetate fiber are significantly lower than viscose rayon, and environmental pollution is again smaller than viscose rayon. See from this point on, exploitation cellulose acetate filament is to improving China's textile exports competitiveness and having in face of world's Green Trade Barrier There is especially real meaning.

Acetate fiber is the one kind for refining out from a kind of wood pulp cellulose of chemical molecular composition is belonged to together with cotton fiber Natural materials and vinegar ester acid anhydride etc. are raw material, and a series of cellulose acetate filament available for spinning and weaving being made through chemical processes is fine Dimension, it possesses the essential characteristic of cellulose fibre using cellulose as basic framework；But its performance and regenerated celulose fibre are again It is different, some characteristics with synthetic fibers.

The feature of acetate fiber：

1. good thermoplasticity：Acetate fiber softens at 200 DEG C -230 DEG C, is melted at 260 DEG C, and this feature makes vinegar ester Fiber has thermoplasticity similar with synthetic fibers, produces shape after plastic deformation and no longer replys, permanent with deformation.

2. excellent dyeability：Acetate fiber generally can use disperse dyeing, and dye uptake is good, bright in luster, its Dye uptake is better than other cellulose fibres.

3. outward appearance is like mulberry silk：The outward appearance of acetate fiber, gloss are similar to mulberry silk, it is soft it is smooth also with mulberry silk Similar, its proportion is as mulberry silk, thus pendency sense and mulberry silk are without difference.The acetic acid fabric that acetate silk is made into is washable easily Dry, not mould not eat into, its elasticity is better than viscose rayon.

4. performance is close to mulberry silk：Compared with the physical and mechanical properties of viscose rayon and mulberry silk, the intensity of acetate fiber Relatively low, extension at break is larger, though it is wet relatively low with dry strong ratio by force, it is higher than viscose, initial modulus is small, and regain compares viscose glue Fiber and mulberry silk are low, but higher than synthetic fibers, and its is wet by force with doing the ratio between strong, extensive with respect to hook strength and knot strength, elasticity Multiple rate etc. is more or less the same with mulberry silk.Thus acetate fiber in chemical fibre performance closest to mulberry silk.

Acetic acid fabric, which has, surmounts cotton, the multiple performance of linen fabric, and such as moisture absorption is breathed freely, washable easily dry, not mould not eat into, Paste skin comfortable, absolute environmental protection etc..Acetic acid fabric is not charged；It is difficult to adsorb the dust in air；Dry-cleaning, washing and less than 40 DEG C machines Hand washing；It is easy to arrange collection, and acetic acid fabric has good resilience and smooth feel.

Acetate fiber dyeability is good, and fabric is bright in luster, bright in appearance, and property is soft and smooth, comfortable, but intensity is relatively low, opens Sending out vinegar ester fabric needs " maximizing favourable factors and minimizing unfavourable ones ".Acetate filament is widely used in clothes, household articles fabric.

This fabric specification is light net semi-dull DTY50D/72F × cellulose acetate filament 75D 200 × 96.5

First, weaving process technical requirements

Warping be weaving production the first procedure, to be carried out before production each Xelminator, each reed, each deflector roll it is clear Clean sanitary work, the processing of filoplume is the most important thing, improves the sensitivity of filoplume detection, and size filoplume will be handled.Warping Power is uniform, and pressure roller pressurization is moderate, it is ensured that warp beam winding is smooth, it is ensured that at regular intervals between yarn.

It is crucial that how warping process, which makes the uniform warp beam winding of tension in Warping smooth,.By the warp thread of process stipulation during warping Radical 23520, need to share in 14 warp beams of winding, 280 ms/min of speed, using relatively low speed of beaming, between control resultant yarn Tension difference, it is ensured that piece yarn tension as far as possible uniformity, preferably appropriate increase, control warping elongation 0.4% or so, To reduce end breakage；Winding is uniform, and yarn and yarn arrangement are uniform, while ensureing that yarn path cleaning is smooth, to improve weaving Efficiency lays the first stone.Using creeling mode by the gross, make the uniform tension in order of whole warp beam, flatness is good.To make in warp beam Yarn surface keep flatness and the pressure roll that uses, flexible contact can be carried out to yarn, and in order to prevent due to jerk machine Caused fluffiness, Tianjin field coltfoal TWN-E type beam warpers are also equipped with the inversion set that in moment pressure roll can retreat. These can ensure higher warp quality, be that the smooth implementation of subsequent handling lays the foundation.

Sizing operation is crucial, and weavability is improved by sizing, make yarn sheet by sizing tension force, arrange, wind it is close Uniformity is spent, good beam of a loom is made, light net semi-dull DTY50D/72F long filaments are hydrophobic fibre, and electrostatic is serious, long filament Easily loose, torsion, so requiring that convergence is good, will focus on the obvolvent between reinforcing fibre, the adhesive force of slurries in starching It is eager to excel.The permeability of slurries will get well simultaneously, if permeability is bad, slurries are difficult to penetrate between strand in a short time, easily Form surface size, it is impossible to which that realizes between fiber good coheres.

Taken during polyester filament starching in order to prevent from mutually sticking, to maintain a certain distance, typically adopt between long filament and long filament With whole, slurry and three-step approach starching, i.e., warp thread is made into the diluter warp beam of density, each warp beam difference starching, will be several into slurry axle Only slurry axle is merged into beam of a loom.Due to three step starchings, warp thread passes through warping, has been wound into the preferable warp beam of package, can guarantee that starching When stop less, so as to avoid such shortcoming.

The high-grade jacquard weave cellulose acetate filament man textile fabric reaches 787/10cm through close, considers from the flatness for improving fabric, Larger warp tension is preferably used, fabric can be made well-pressed, strong.It is easy as the polyester filament of warp thread because warp count is big Fluffing causes opening unclear, so back beam height can be more lower slightly, is not to cause opening unclear because top line tension force is too small, Cause the float such as skips, also not reason lower layer warp yarns overtension and cause a large amount of broken ends.

Weaved using Russia and the U.S.'s spy's ALPHA rapier looms, correct setting and adjusting process parameter are that rapier loom is high Effect operating and the guarantee of good quality.

2nd, dyeing and finishing technology technical requirements

Desizing refining agent HS-211A rapidly can thoroughly remove decomposed various slurries on fabric, and prevent its time to be stained with Onto fabric and equipment, it can effectively prevent and reduce the generation of the various defects caused by desizing is not net such as slime spots, color dot, be Product quality is improved to provide safeguard.Dyeing and finishing process should take related technical measures, such as select suitable desizing agent；Selection is carried The disperse dyes of liter property, compatibility, reappearance and good color fastness；Suitable levelling agent is added in dye liquor to improve level-dyeing property； Using overflow dyeing machine, process conditions are strictly controlled, to ensure dyeing quality.

Due to the fabric have the higher rate of sizing and thread count, its fabric dyeing and finishing processing easily occur desizing not to the utmost, The problems such as upper dye irregular, poor color fastness.Dyeing and finishing process should take related technical measures, such as select suitable desizing agent；Choosing Select the acid dyes of enhancing, compatibility, reappearance and good color fastness；Suitable levelling agent is added in dye liquor to improve level dyeing Property；Using overflow dyeing machine, process conditions are strictly controlled, normal temperature and pressure dyeing, appropriate reduction is begun to contaminate temperature and delays heating and cooling Speed, to ensure dyeing quality.

Dyeing and finishing technology flow is：Openpore inspection-debatching-desizing-dyeing-dehydration-open-width-setting-is into product examine Test.

Fabric and production technology formulate as follows：

First, product specification

63 " the high-grade jacquard weave cellulose acetate filament home textile faces of semi-dull polyester DTY 50D/72F × cellulose acetate filament 75D 200 × 96.5 Material

2nd, the technological process of production

1st, weaving process flow

The Japanese Tianjin of Japanese Tianjin field coltfoal warping machine TWN-E warpings --- Japanese Tianjin field coltfoal slurry silk machine KSH500-E starchings --- --- the Japanese rattan hall splitting machine leasings of TC-700-95 --- are gaited --- arrow shaft ALPHA for field coltfoal and through 30-E of machine KB and axle Jacquard --- fabric inspection --- is into wrapping into storehouse

2nd, postfinishing process flow is dyed

--- debatching --- desizing --- dyeing --- dehydration --- setting --- inspection --- packaging that fabric is examined.

3rd, technological parameter and key problem in technology

1st, weaving process parameter and key point

Starch silk, make one layer of smooth, flexible and firm serous coat of strand Surface coating, with strengthen polyester filament cohesive force and Wearability, enables to bear various frictional force and the tension force in weaving process, makes to be woven under the requirement of good quality and high output smoothly Carry out.Slurry will select the performances such as good tackness, convergence, flatness, water resistance, antistatic.Silk is starched, makes strand table Bread covers one layer of smooth, flexible and firm serous coat, in the modulation of slurry and the use of slurries, the slurries that polyester filament is used Low temperature is taken to size mixing and low temperature starching technique.The temperature of water is no more than 60 DEG C when sizing mixing, for slurry temperature degree between 40-45 DEG C, Concentration of slurry is determined by rate of sizing size, and the sugared instrument of consumption is tested and controlled, and is had after moisture absorption and is sticked phenomenon again, easily makes slurry silk Produce and glued simultaneously between slurry silk, be difficult to weaving.

Select the slurry used in polyester filament starching, slurry there will be good tackness, convergence, flatness, water-fast The performances such as property, antistatic.It is mainly acrylic acid plasmoid suitable for the slurry of polyester filament starching at present perverse production practices, is Acquisition excellent starch finishing effect, formulates in the selection of slurry and formula of size, answers concrete condition specifically to treat.Production practices Show, on the basis of from acrylic compounds for main slurry, can also be added according to precursor performance in formula of size on various Slurry auxiliary agent, such as smooth agent, antistatic additive, defoamer optimization formula of size, improve grind slurries quality, and then promote slurry yarn quality to carry Height, uses mixing slurry starching, and slurry silk feel is more well-pressed, and convergence preferably, adapts to weave life of the relative humidity 70%~74% Produce environment.

In the modulation of slurry and the use of slurries, the slurries that polyester filament is used will take low temperature to size mixing and low temperature starching Technique.The temperature of water is no more than 60 DEG C when sizing mixing, and slurry groove temperature is between 53 DEG C, and concentration of slurry is determined by rate of sizing size, and Consumption sugar instrument is tested and controlled.Starching form is using the single pressure of single leaching, and the pressure of squeezing roller is depending on the denier of polyester filament. The size of the polyester filament rate of sizing, should have according to the difference of the density size of dacron thread number of fiber, fiber number, the twist and fabric Institute is different.But the rate of sizing is unsuitable excessive, and the rate of sizing is big, and not only the surface serous coat of silk is blocked up, easily cause slurry, and slurry silk hair Hair, is difficult weaving.The suitable rate of sizing of polyester filament starching, is selected as 5%.Because polyester filament starching is used with acrylic compounds Slurry be main somaplasm material, and one, this slurry it is topmost have the disadvantage to have after moisture absorption again stick phenomenon, easily make slurry silk with slurry silk Between produce it is viscous simultaneously, be difficult to weaving.Therefore polyester filament sizing moisture rate should be controlled below 3%.Polyester filament system Thermoplastic fibre, can produce different thermal contraction phenomenons, so selecting rational elongation critically important after being heated.This time low bullet is washed Synthetic fibre long filament processed filament is controlled 3%~4%.Rational drying room temperature, it is most important for polyester filament, because polyester filament Starching is difficult drying using domestic slurry because viscosity is higher, so in the first drying chamber, it is warm in the range of no more than the limit The rise that should try one's best is spent, the drying temperature of other each rooms should be slightly below the first drying room temperature.The submitting of strict control slurry silk machine, volume Around tension force, the advantage that silk machine low-tension is starched in import is given full play to.Warp sizing drying after, then upper 1% finish or prevent it is quiet Electric agent, so can both make the surface of slurry silk smooth, and reduce coefficient of friction, can play a part of antistatic again.

Using axle to axle starching mode, starching will be carried out and axle after silk, and use hightension, and the slurry axle starched should have sufficiently The shrinkage shaping time, it is usually that slurry axle is placed more than 48h, then carries out again and axle.

To improve loom efficiency, improve product quality, the present invention uses plastic heddle, reduce damage of the heald to warp thread, The speed of appropriate reduction loom, slows down because opening, beating motion are to the impact forces of warp thread；By the position for adjusting the back rest Put, the mode of the weight of the active length of tension spring and tension weight, the appropriate warp tension for reducing warp thread；Reduce opening dynamic Journey, makes warp thread reduce the changing value of warp tension in opening process；Install rear oiling device additional, beam of a loom is wrapped up, increase The humidity in workshop；When handling heald frame to back rest cracked ends, warp thread is avoided mutually to be wound with warp thread., can be with by these behaves It is effectively reduced cracked ends and lousiness phenomenon.

This example demonstrates that as follows：

(1) warping

(2) silk is starched

Size mixing formula

And axle (3)

(4) gait

(5) weaving process technical parameter

(6) arranging process

2nd, dyeing and finishing technology：

2.1 desizing

Because the rate of sizing is larger, desizing difficulty is increased, and selecting has good infiltration, emulsification, the desizing agent of dispersive property, tool Body technology is as follows：

Technological process：Enter cloth-desizing-soap-hot water wash-cold water washes.

Auxiliary agent：Chelating agent 0.33g/L at 27 DEG C, sodium dihydrogen phosphate 0.08g/L, anionic, net lotion 0.07g/L；

Desizing agent：5g/L,

Bleeding agent：1~2g/L.

Process conditions：

Desizing temperature：98 DEG C,

Soap temperature：90 DEG C -80 DEG C,

Hot water wash temperature： 70℃—50℃.

2.2 dyeing

Because the hydroxyl in acetate fiber has pith to be acetylation, free hydroxyl group is less, causes its water absorbing properties to drop It is low, so water-soluble dye is improper, dyed from disperse dyes, but the structure of acetate fiber is more loose than terylene, because Dye condition relaxes than terylene on this, in dyeing course, and disperse dyes with dye granule or micro- gather by the effect of dispersant The form of body is present in dye liquor, by adsorbing and spreading and had an effect with fabric, is combined with hydrogen bond and Van der Waals force.Dye Color temperature is 85 DEG C, can influence dye uptake higher than 85 DEG C, and causes that feel is poor, gloss is bad.PH value is in 5-6, and temperature is higher, on Contaminate speed faster, but easily produce dyeing defect, be to obtain uniform Color as far as possible, using the dyer progressively heated up Skill, plays dye temperature since 40 DEG C, is then progressively warming up to 85 DEG C, continues dye 50 minutes.

Dispersing agent NNO, glacial acetic acid, N, dinethylformamide, ammoniacal liquor, anhydrous sodium sulfate, sodium carbonate,

Technology preparation is：

2.3 color fixing process

In order that fabric has higher color fastness, technique is as follows：

Technology preparation is color fixing agent N-SG：2.0g/L,

Glacial acetic acid：0.5g/L,

2.4 setting

Process equipment：Hot blast stentering boarding machine；

Technological process：Enter the weft straightener one of one auxiliary groove of cloth one dry/3~4 casees cylinders of one tentering one cooling one go out cloth a dozen Volume；

Process conditions：140 DEG C of setting temperature, fixing time 60s.

The quality measurements of embodiment product：

Breadth：160cm

Through close：787/10cm

Filling density：380/10cm

Gram Mass：85g/m²

Content of formaldehyde (unit：mg/kg)：Technical requirements are≤75, survey not detect；

PH value：Technical requirements are 4.0~4.8, are surveyed as 6.0；

Decomposable asymmetric choice net carcinogenic aromatic amine dyestuff (unit：mg/kg)：Technical requirements are disabling, survey not detect；

Peculiar smell：Technical requirements are nothing, are surveyed as nothing；

Color fastness to water (unit：Level) --- change colour as former state, technical requirements are >=3, are surveyed as 4~5；

--- staining, technical requirements are >=3, are surveyed as 3；

Acidproof PERSPIRATION COLOR FASTNESS (unit：Level) --- change colour as former state, technical requirements are >=3, are surveyed as 4~5；

--- staining, technical requirements are >=3, are surveyed as 3；

Alkaline-resisting PERSPIRATION COLOR FASTNESS (unit：Level) --- change colour as former state, technical requirements are >=3, are surveyed as 4~5；

--- staining, technical requirements are >=3, are surveyed as 3；

The color fastness of resistance to dry friction (unit：Level), technical requirements are >=3, are surveyed as 3.

Claims (2)

1. a kind of production method of jacquard weave cellulose acetate filament man's textile fabric, it is characterized in that

In jacquard weave cellulose acetate filament man's textile fabric, warp thread is semi-dull polyester filament, 50D/72F, through it is close be 200 pieces/inch； Weft yarn is cellulose acetate filament, and 75D, filling density is 96.5 pieces/inch；It is organized as big Developing of Jacquard Weave；

The production stage of the fabric includes：

1) weave：The silk machine starching → of warping machine warping → slurry is simultaneously gaited → rapier jacquard loom through machine and axle → splitting machine leasing → Weaving；

2) dyeing and finishing：Debatching → desizing → dyeing → dehydration → open-width → setting；

The step 1) in,

Warping machine warping is required to include：Total warping radical is 24520, wherein Side End Number 60 × 2；Warping radical is 1680；Speed is 280m/min；Coiling tension is 10/16kg；Bobbin cradle tension force is 7g；

Slurry silk machine starches requiring to include for silk：Unwinding tension is 18kg；Coiling tension is 23kg；Soaking paste roller pressure is 3.5kg；Mud jacking Roller pressure is 3.0kg/2.5kg/3.0kg；53 DEG C of slurry groove temperature；Drying room tension force is 15g；Drying room temperature is 155 DEG C/150 DEG C；Tin Woods temperature is 140 DEG C/135 DEG C/130 DEG C/125 DEG C/120 DEG C；

Recipe requirements of sizing mixing are：SHH-3020 type polyester filament special sizing agents；Antistatic additive；Anti-friction agent；Slurry temperature is 98~ 100℃；Concentration of slurry is 10%；

And requiring to include through machine and axle：Speed is 60m/min；It is 15kg × 14 to move back solution tension force；Winding tension is 200kg；Cone Degree is 3%；And the axle number of axle is 14；

What drawing-in machine was gaited requires to include：Porter made in Great Britain is 96#；Reed width is 128 inches；The tissue comprehensive method of wearing in ground is suitable wears；Side group It is suitable wear to knit the comprehensive method of wearing；Ground tissue it is comprehensive enter number be 1；Selvage Stitch it is comprehensive enter number be 2；It is 4 that ground tissue reed, which enters number,；Selvage Stitch reed enters number 4；The menopause tablet method of wearing is 1,2,3,4,5,6；Using plastic heddle；

Rapier jacquard loom is woven to be required to include：Speed is 200rpm；Upper machine filling density is 96 pieces/inch；Opening pattern is electricity Sub big jacquard weave；Opening time is 312 degree；The main jet time is 70 degree；Back beam height is -5mm；Warp stop frame height is 1 lattice；Pre-add Power is 315kg；Temple pad is 4mm；Main jet pressure is 4MP；The auxiliary power of spraying is 4.5MP；Temperature and relative humidity are 23 respectively DEG C~27 DEG C and 68%~74%；

The step 2) in,

Desizing is required to include：Chelating agent, sodium dihydrogen phosphate and anionic, net lotion are added in desizing liquid, and uses HS- 211A type desizing refining agent, abundant desizing is carried out at 98 DEG C of temperature；Again using detergent 209 as bleeding agent in 90 DEG C of temperature ~80 DEG C are fully soaped；Then through 70 DEG C~50 DEG C hot water wash；Last cold water is washed；

That dyes requires to include：Dye liquor pH value is 5~6, and progressively heating is dyed；Dye temperature is played since 40 DEG C, then often The speed of 1 DEG C of minute is progressively warming up to 85 DEG C, renews dye 50 minutes；

The dyestuff of dye liquor is disperse dyes；Dispersant NNO, N,N-dimethylformamide, glacial acetic acid, ammoniacal liquor, nothing are added in dye liquor Aqueous sodium persulfate, sodium carbonate and levelling agent, it is ensured that the pH value of dye liquor is 5~6；

What is shaped requires to include：Shaped using hot blast stentering boarding machine, setting temperature is 140 DEG C, and fixing time is 60s.

2. production method according to claim 1, it is characterized in that the Fabric width of fabric is 160cm.