CN111304811B - Worsted machine washable cashmere knitted product and preparation process thereof - Google Patents
Worsted machine washable cashmere knitted product and preparation process thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN111304811B CN111304811B CN202010195333.XA CN202010195333A CN111304811B CN 111304811 B CN111304811 B CN 111304811B CN 202010195333 A CN202010195333 A CN 202010195333A CN 111304811 B CN111304811 B CN 111304811B
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
- D04B1/12—Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material
- D04B1/126—Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material with colour pattern, e.g. intarsia fabrics
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
- D06P1/0032—Determining dye recipes and dyeing parameters; Colour matching or monitoring
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
- D06P3/02—Material containing basic nitrogen
- D06P3/04—Material containing basic nitrogen containing amide groups
- D06P3/14—Wool
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
- D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
- D10B2211/02—Wool
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
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- Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
Abstract
The invention relates to a worsted machine washable cashmere knitted product and a preparation process thereof, which comprises the steps of selecting fiber raw materials, pretreating the fiber raw materials, spinning worsted yarns, weaving ready-made clothes and post-treating ready-made clothes.
Description
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of knitting processing, and particularly relates to a worsted machine washable cashmere knitted product and a preparation process thereof.
Background
In the field of clothing, the clothing is light, thin, fashionable, high-quality and organic, and becomes a main selection mark of mainstream consumer groups, and in order to save time, people now hope that high-grade clothing not only can be washed by hands and dry-cleaned, but also can be washed freely in a household washing machine without affecting the appearance retentivity and the size stability of the high-grade clothing. Cashmere as high-grade animal fiber is fine, soft and warm-keeping, has the reputation of 'soft gold', the fineness of the cashmere is generally between 14 and 18.5 mu m, the natural crimpness is high, and the cashmere is fiercely tight in the spinning and weaving, has good cohesive force, so the warm-keeping performance is excellent.
Cashmere products have always presented a significant problem: the fabric has poor wet elasticity and poor resilience (the breaking elongation of the cashmere yarn is generally only 10-15%), so that the size stability of the product is low, and the product is easy to deform after being washed for many times and cannot be washed by a machine particularly. In addition, cashmere has fulling property, namely, scales are arranged on the surfaces of cashmere fibers, and under the action of mechanical force in water, the scales can be tilted and rubbed to promote the fibers to be drilled out from bound yarns, so that a layer of suede is formed on the surface of clothes. The proper suede can improve the quality of clothes, so that the cashmere sweater has soft hand feeling and full suede, but the clothes are felted due to excessive fulling, and therefore, after fulling treatment is carried out in the production process of the cashmere sweater, a customer takes the cashmere sweater out of a machine for washing and felting can be caused.
For example, CN105124816A discloses a method for manufacturing a machine washable wool cashmere sweater by woolen spinning, which can produce products meeting the standard of machine washing, but the process only removes the scale layer and then adds a smoothing agent to the cashmere, so that the quality of the manufactured products is not uniform and the quality of the cashmere itself is affected.
Disclosure of Invention
Aiming at the problems, the invention aims to provide a worsted machine washable cashmere knitted product and a preparation process thereof, wherein high-quality long cashmere is selected and matched with cashmere knitting treatment and post-treatment processes to obtain the worsted fabric which is not easy to pilling, good in uniformity, low in felting rate and good in smooth and glutinous feeling, and the requirements of producers and consumers are met.
In order to achieve the purpose, the technical scheme of the invention is as follows:
a process for preparing the knitting cashmere products able to be washed by machine includes such steps as choosing raw fibre material, pretreating, spinning fine-spinning knitting yarn, weaving clothes, and finishing after clothes,
a preparation process of a machine washable cashmere knitted product is characterized by comprising the following preparation processes:
(1) selecting fiber raw materials: long pile with length over 40 mm; (2) carding: carrying out single-pass carding for 6-8 times by using a cashmere combined carding machine, and taking cashmere with the length of 39-45 mm, the thickness of less than 0.15% and the impurity content of less than 0.2%; (3) dyeing: light color: controlling the initial temperature of dyeing to be 30-35 ℃, keeping the temperature for 10-15 min, then heating to 1.0 ℃/min, controlling the temperature to be 80-90 ℃, and then keeping the temperature for 50-65 min; dark color: controlling the initial temperature of dyeing to be 30-35 ℃, keeping the temperature for 10-15 min, then heating to 1.0 ℃/min, controlling the temperature to be 90-100 ℃, and then keeping the temperature for 80-100 min; (4) spinning and weaving: the knitting density coefficient is: 1.3-1.5; (5) and (5) post-treatment.
In the scheme, the cashmere knitting method is mainly improved aiming at the selection and knitting process of cashmere: the method adopts a mode of pretreating raw materials, precisely screens the long-staple fibers, and the length, the fineness and the strength of the long-staple fibers are superior to those of the fine-staple fibers, and the inventor researches that the long-staple fibers are more uniform in arrangement, large in spacing and small in warping angle (the average value is 19.5 degrees and the average value of the short-staple fibers is 20.8 degrees) in the process of weaving and other processes, so that the long-staple fibers are felted under the condition that the breaking elongation is higher and the wear and the warping of the scales are less likely to be caused during the process treatment, and therefore the long-staple fibers are preliminarily screened for the treatment of the subsequent process; in the design of the scheme, an 18-needle flat knitting machine is adopted, the knitting density coefficient is 1.3-1.5, the knitting efficiency is greatly improved, the obtained knitted fabric has better smoothness and better heat retention coefficient, is suitable for long-staple fibers, and is not easy to excessively rise and felte; in the design of the scheme, respective process parameters are adjusted according to different dyeing conditions of the dark and light color dyes on the long-staple fibers, so that the dyeing effect is good and the coloring degree is high under the condition of not losing the excellent quality of the fibers.
Preferably, in the dyeing process in the step (3), the pH of the dye liquor is adjusted by adopting acetic acid for the light color, and the pH of the dye liquor is adjusted by adopting alkali treatment for the dark color.
In the design of the scheme, the pH is adjusted according to different shades of the dye to adjust the optimal coloring parameters, and the pH of the dye liquor is adjusted to be weakly acidic or neutral, so that the treatment and the discharge of the waste dye liquor in the subsequent treatment process are facilitated.
Further, wool processing is adopted before the spinning step: the oil filling rate is controlled within 3-4% and the oil-water ratio is 1: 4-1: 5.
Furthermore, the single yarn twist in the spinning process reaches 1100-1200 twists/m.
Preferably, the post-treatment step comprises a fulling treatment comprising the steps of: the method comprises the following steps: soaking the woven ready-made clothes in a 35-45 ℃ soaking solution (containing the lanojingjing of 1.5-3.0%) and then washing and dehydrating with clear water; step two: soaking the ready-made clothes treated in the step one in a 35-45 ℃ soaking solution b (containing the lanojingjing of 1.5-3.0%) for soaking, then washing with 35-45 ℃ clear water, dehydrating and drying.
Further, the ready-made clothes in the first step comprise 68 worsted fabrics and 72 worsted fabrics; further preferably, the soaking time of the 68 spinning fabrics is 50-120 min; and the soaking time of the 72-count worsted fabric is 120-180 min.
Further, the drying temperature in the second step is 45-60 ℃.
Further, the moisture regain of the dried ready-made clothes is controlled within the range of 14-16%.
And the worsted machine washable cashmere knitted product is obtained according to the preparation process.
The invention has the following beneficial effects:
the invention sets up a set of fine spinning cashmere products of composite long cashmere fiber by the optimization and adjustment of the cashmere screening, dyeing and weaving processes, the process is simple and easy to operate, the damage to the fiber in the production process is effectively reduced, and the obtained finished product has the advantages of difficult pilling, good uniformity, low felting rate, good smooth feeling and uniform and rich color.
Detailed Description
Example 1
A preparation process of a machine washable cashmere knitted product comprises the following steps:
(1) washing cashmere with the average length of 45cm and the average fineness of 15 mu m with water, and then carding the washed cashmere once for 6 times by using a cashmere combined carding machine to obtain cashmere fibers with the carding length of 39-45 mm, the coarseness of less than 0.15 percent and the impurity content of less than 0.2 percent;
(2) adding dye into a material barrel, adding water, stirring uniformly, adjusting pH to meet the process requirement, heating to 30 ℃, conveying to a dye vat, adding cashmere fiber, operating for 10min, heating to 1 ℃ every 1.0min, controlling the dyeing temperature to be 80 ℃, keeping the temperature for 65min, washing, neutralizing with acetic acid, draining water when the pH is about 6, and dehydrating and drying the cashmere fiber;
(3) feeding dyed loose velvet into a wool bin, controlling the oiling rate of wool blending oil to be within 3-4% after unbundling by a wool blending machine, and adjusting the oil-water ratio according to the moisture regain, wherein the oil-water ratio is generally within the range of 1: 4-1: 5;
(4) spinning: spinning twist: the single twist of the three-ply yarn was 1200 twists/m.
(5) Knitting by a flat knitting machine: the German STOLL full-automatic 18-needle computerized flat knitting machine is adopted, and the knitting density coefficient is 1.3.
(6) Looping and collar sleeving: the parameters are as follows: 68 pieces of 3-ply cashmere sweater can be washed by a machine: sewing by a 22-needle machine; machine washable 72 count 3-ply cashmere sweater: the neckline was sewn with a 24-needle machine, and the other portions were sewn with a 22-needle machine.
(7) Fulling: placing the worsted sweater in an aqueous solution containing 1.5% of energy for cleaning, heating to 35 ℃, soaking for 60min, then placing the worsted sweater in clear water for washing, taking out and drying, then placing the worsted sweater in an aqueous solution containing 3.0% of energy for cleaning, keeping the temperature constant, soaking for 20min, then washing for 3 times with warm water (within the range of 35-45 ℃), then drying (at the temperature of 45 ℃), then raising the temperature to 55 ℃ for curing for 10min, and controlling the moisture regain within the range of 14-16%;
(8) ironing: the cashmere sweater is ironed and shaped to obtain the finished product of the washable cashmere knitted product of the spinning frame.
Example 2
A preparation process of a machine washable cashmere knitted product comprises the following steps:
(1) washing cashmere with the average length of 45cm and the average fineness of 15 mu m with water, and then carding the washed cashmere once for 6 times by using a cashmere combined carding machine to obtain cashmere fibers with the carding length of 39-45 mm, the coarseness of less than 0.15 percent and the impurity content of less than 0.2 percent;
(2) adding dye into a material barrel, adding water, stirring uniformly, adjusting pH to meet the process requirement, heating to 30 ℃, conveying to a dye vat, adding cashmere fiber, operating for 10min, heating to 1 ℃ every 1.0min, controlling the dyeing temperature to be 90 ℃, keeping the temperature for 100min, adding ammonia water for alkali treatment, washing, neutralizing with acetic acid, draining water when the pH is about 6, dehydrating and drying the cashmere fiber;
(3) feeding dyed loose velvet into a wool bin, controlling the oiling rate of wool blending oil to be within 3-4% after unbundling by a wool blending machine, and adjusting the oil-water ratio according to the moisture regain, wherein the oil-water ratio is generally within the range of 1: 4-1: 5;
(4) spinning: spinning twist: the single twist of the three-ply yarn was 1200 twists/m.
(5) Knitting by a flat knitting machine: a German STOLL full-automatic 18-needle computerized flat knitting machine is adopted, and the knitting density coefficient is 1.4.
(6) Looping and collar sleeving: the parameters are as follows: 68 pieces of 3-ply cashmere sweater can be washed by a machine: sewing by a 22-needle machine; machine washable 72 count 3-ply cashmere sweater: the neckline was sewn with a 24-needle machine, and the other portions were sewn with a 22-needle machine.
(7) Fulling: placing the worsted sweater in an aqueous solution containing 1.5% of energy for cleaning, heating to 40 ℃, soaking for 120min, then placing the worsted sweater in clear water for washing, taking out and drying, then placing the worsted sweater in an aqueous solution containing 3.0% of energy for cleaning, keeping the temperature constant, soaking for 50min, then washing for 3 times with warm water (within the range of 35-45 ℃), then drying (at the temperature of 45 ℃), then raising the temperature to 60 ℃ for curing for 10min, and controlling the moisture regain within the range of 14-16%;
(8) ironing: the cashmere sweater is ironed and shaped to obtain the finished product of the washable cashmere knitted product of the spinning frame.
Example 3
A preparation process of a machine washable cashmere knitted product comprises the following steps:
(1) washing cashmere with the average length of 45cm and the average fineness of 15 mu m with water, and then carding the washed cashmere once for 6 times by using a cashmere combined carding machine to obtain cashmere fibers with the carding length of 39-45 mm, the coarseness of less than 0.15 percent and the impurity content of less than 0.2 percent;
(2) adding dye into a material barrel, adding water, stirring uniformly, adjusting pH to meet the process requirement, heating to 30 ℃, conveying to a dye vat, adding cashmere fiber, operating for 10min, heating to 1 ℃ every 1.0min, controlling the dyeing temperature to be 100 ℃, keeping the temperature for 80min, adding ammonia water for alkali treatment, washing, neutralizing with acetic acid, draining water when the pH is about 6, dehydrating and drying the cashmere fiber;
(3) feeding dyed loose velvet into a wool bin, controlling the oiling rate of wool blending oil to be within 3-4% after unbundling by a wool blending machine, and adjusting the oil-water ratio according to the moisture regain, wherein the oil-water ratio is generally within the range of 1: 4-1: 5;
(4) spinning: spinning twist: the single twist of the three-ply yarn was 1200 twists/m.
(5) Knitting by a flat knitting machine: the German STOLL full-automatic 18-needle computerized flat knitting machine is adopted, and the knitting density coefficient is 1.5.
(6) Looping and collar sleeving: the parameters are as follows: 68 pieces of 3-ply cashmere sweater can be washed by a machine: sewing by a 22-needle machine; machine washable 72 count 3-ply cashmere sweater: the neckline was sewn with a 24-needle machine, and the other portions were sewn with a 22-needle machine.
(7) Fulling: placing the worsted sweater in an aqueous solution containing 1.5% of energy for cleaning, heating to 40 ℃, soaking for 60min, then placing the worsted sweater in clear water for washing, taking out and drying, then placing the worsted sweater in an aqueous solution containing 3.0% of energy for cleaning, controlling the temperature to be 30 ℃, soaking for 20-40 min according to actual requirements of the suede, then cleaning for 3 times by warm water (within the range of 35-45 ℃), then drying (at the temperature of 55 ℃), then raising the temperature to 60 ℃ and curing for 10min, and controlling the moisture regain to be within the range of 14-16%;
(8) ironing: the cashmere sweater is ironed and shaped to obtain the finished product of the washable cashmere knitted product of the spinning frame.
The examples 1-3 were tested according to the national textile FZ-T70009-2012 machine washable test standard and the test results are shown in the following table:
as can be seen from the above table, the embodiments of the present invention can all reach the national standards of machine washable products.
The difference between the arrangement of the comparative example 1 and the example 1 is that the carded cashmere with impurity content of 0.2 percent, coarse content of 0.2 percent and average length of 30-38 mm is selected.
Comparative example 2 was set up, which differs from example 1 in that the yarn was knitted using a conventional 14-needle flat knitting machine.
The difference between the arrangement of a comparative example 3 and the arrangement of the comparative example 1 is that the carding cashmere with the impurity content of 0.2 percent, the thickness content of 0.2 percent and the average length of 30-38 mm is selected and woven by a traditional 14-needle flat knitting machine.
The results of the above comparative examples 1 to 3 were tested according to the national textile FZ-T70009-2012 machine washable test standard and are shown in the following table:
from the above table, it can be seen that the felting rate of the spinning sweater prepared by the cashmere of comparative example 3, which is knitted by the conventional 14-needle flat knitting machine and has the impurity content of 0.2%, the coarseness of 0.2% and the average length of 30-38 mm, is very serious, and the results of comparative example 1 and comparative example 2 show that the felting shrinkage can be improved to a certain extent by the knitting treatment and carding treatment processes of 18-needle knitting, but the machine-washable standard cannot be achieved, and the comparison of example 1 shows that the felting rate of the worsted sweater obtained by the improvement of the invention is extremely low, which proves that the pretreatment and the after-finishing processes have a certain synergistic promoting effect and can achieve the effect.
The breaking strength and elongation at break of examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 3 were compared, and the results are shown in the following table:
from the above table, the process of the present invention is effective in improving the warp breaking strength of the worsted sweater without significantly improving the elongation at break.
Example 4
A preparation process of a machine washable cashmere knitted product comprises the following steps:
(1) washing cashmere with the average length of 45cm and the average fineness of 15 mu m with water, and then carding the washed cashmere once for 6 times by using a cashmere combined carding machine to obtain cashmere fibers with the carding length of 39-45 mm, the coarseness of less than 0.15 percent and the impurity content of less than 0.2 percent;
(2) adding dye into a material barrel, adding water, stirring uniformly, adjusting pH to meet the process requirement, heating to 30 ℃, conveying to a dye vat, adding cashmere fiber, operating for 10min, heating to 1 ℃ every 1.0min, controlling the dyeing temperature to be 90 ℃, keeping the temperature for 55min, washing, neutralizing with acetic acid, draining water when the pH is about 6, and dehydrating and drying the cashmere fiber;
(3) feeding dyed loose velvet into a wool bin, controlling the oiling rate of wool blending oil to be within 3-4% after unbundling by a wool blending machine, and adjusting the oil-water ratio according to the moisture regain, wherein the oil-water ratio is generally within the range of 1: 4-1: 5;
(4) spinning: spinning twist: the single twist of the three-ply yarn was 1200 twists/m.
(5) Knitting by a flat knitting machine: the German STOLL full-automatic 18-needle computerized flat knitting machine is adopted, and the knitting density coefficient is 1.3.
(6) Looping and collar sleeving: the parameters are as follows: 68 pieces of 3-ply cashmere sweater can be washed by a machine: sewing by a 22-needle machine; machine washable 72 count 3-ply cashmere sweater: the neckline was sewn with a 24-needle machine, and the other portions were sewn with a 22-needle machine.
(7) Fulling: placing the worsted sweater in an aqueous solution containing 1.5% of energy for cleaning, heating to 35 ℃, soaking for 60min, then placing the worsted sweater in clear water for washing, taking out and drying, then placing the worsted sweater in an aqueous solution containing 3.0% of energy for cleaning, keeping the temperature constant, soaking for 20min, then washing for 3 times with warm water (within the range of 35-45 ℃), then drying (at the temperature of 45 ℃), then raising the temperature to 55 ℃ for curing for 10min, and controlling the moisture regain within the range of 14-16%;
(8) ironing: the cashmere sweater is ironed and shaped to obtain the finished product of the washable cashmere knitted product of the spinning frame.
Through standard tests, the test results of the embodiment are not greatly different from those of the embodiment 1, and it is proved that the change of the parameters (temperature and time) in the parameter range (temperature and time) defined by the inventor does not have great influence on the test results.
The specific embodiments described herein are merely illustrative of the spirit of the invention. Various modifications or additions may be made to the described embodiments or alternatives may be employed by those skilled in the art without departing from the spirit or ambit of the invention as defined in the appended claims.
Claims (5)
1. A preparation process of a machine washable cashmere knitted product is characterized by comprising the following preparation processes:
(1) selecting fiber raw materials: long pile with length over 40 mm; (2) carding: carding for 6-8 times in a single pass, and taking cashmere with the length of 39-45 mm, the thickness of less than 0.15 percent and the impurity content of less than 0.2 percent; (3) dyeing: light color: controlling the initial temperature of dyeing to be 30-35 ℃, keeping the temperature for 10-15 min, then heating to 1.0 ℃/min, controlling the temperature to be 80-90 ℃, and then keeping the temperature for 50-65 min; dark color: controlling the initial temperature of dyeing to be 30-35 ℃, keeping the temperature for 10-15 min, then heating to 1.0 ℃/min, controlling the temperature to be 90-100 ℃, and then keeping the temperature for 80-100 min; (4) spinning and weaving: the knitting density coefficient is: 1.3-1.5; (5) after-treatment is carried out, and the obtained product is treated,
wool blending treatment is adopted before the spinning step: the oil filling rate is controlled within 3-4% and the oil-water ratio is 1: 4-1: 5,
the single yarn twist in the spinning process reaches 1100-1200 twists/m,
the post-treatment in the step (5) comprises fulling treatment, and specifically comprises the following steps: the method comprises the following steps: soaking the woven ready-made clothes in a 35-45 ℃ soaking solution, and then washing and dehydrating with clear water; step two: soaking the ready-made clothes treated in the first step into a 35-45 ℃ soaking solution, then washing with 35-45 ℃ clear water, dehydrating, drying,
and in the second step, the drying temperature is 45-60 ℃.
2. The process for preparing knitted products of machine washable cashmere according to claim 1, wherein in the dyeing process of step (3), the pH of the dye liquor is adjusted by acetic acid for light color, and the pH of the dye liquor is adjusted by ammonia water for dark color.
3. The process for preparing machine washable cashmere knitted products according to claim 1, wherein the soaking time of the knitted ready-made clothes in the first step is 50-180 min.
4. The preparation process of the machine washable cashmere knitted product according to claim 1, wherein the moisture regain of the dried ready-made clothes is controlled within a range of 14-16%.
5. A worsted machine washable cashmere knitted product, prepared according to the preparation process of the machine washable cashmere knitted product of any one of claims 1 to 4.
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