CN113235199A

CN113235199A - Cashmere fancy yarn and manufacturing method of knitwear thereof

Info

Publication number: CN113235199A
Application number: CN202110383883.9A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 严春泉
Original assignee: Tongxiang Chuanfa Clothing Co ltd
Current assignee: Tongxiang Chuanfa Clothing Co ltd
Priority date: 2021-04-09
Filing date: 2021-04-09
Publication date: 2021-08-10

Abstract

The invention relates to the technical field of spinning, in particular to cashmere fancy yarn and a manufacturing method of knitwear thereof. The method comprises the following steps: s1: preparing cashmere single yarns; s2: preparing cooked silk; s3: and (4) manufacturing cashmere fancy yarns, namely using the cashmere single yarns prepared in the step S1 as core yarns of a fancy twisting machine, using the boiled silks prepared in the step S2 as pressing lines of the fancy twisting machine, wrapping and twisting the boiled silks around the cashmere single yarns, and producing the cashmere fancy yarns by a hollow spindle twisting principle of the fancy twisting machine. In the technical scheme, the procedures of doubling and double twisting are omitted in the preparation of the cashmere single yarn, raw silk is produced by silk reeling from silkworm cocoons, the production time of making short fibers from spun silk is omitted, and the process flow is greatly shortened in the aspect of raw material acquisition. And moreover, the cashmere single yarn coated by the boiled yarns is twisted by a fancy twisting machine, which is obviously different from the prior doubling twisting technology, the obtained cashmere fancy yarn has uniform twist, and the surface of the yarn is smooth and clean, thereby effectively solving the quality problem of the prior cashmere spun yarn.

Description

Cashmere fancy yarn and manufacturing method of knitwear thereof

Technical Field

The invention relates to the technical field of spinning, in particular to cashmere fancy yarn and a manufacturing method of knitwear thereof.

Background

The cashmere textile is a product deeply loved by consumers, and cashmere fiber is light in texture, soft in hand feeling, high in price and called soft gold; and the mulberry silk fiber has good moisture absorption and air permeability, is soft, glutinous and smooth, is praised as fiber queen, is used as two scarce textile raw material resources, and has rapid technical development for improving and increasing the added value of the products.

The silk and cashmere are blended according to a certain proportion, so that the fabric functionality of the knitted fashionable dress can be greatly improved, the product not only keeps the due soft and high-grade essence of the cashmere, but also overcomes the defects of easy shrinkage, easy wrinkle and the like of the cashmere product, and the fashionable dress is more comfortable to wear.

The existing silk and cashmere mixed spinning is distinguished according to spinning processes, and three spinning process flows of carded silk and cashmere spinning, semi-worsted silk and cashmere spinning and worsted silk and cashmere spinning exist, and the three spinning process flows have the following defects:

spun silk raw materials used in the three spinning processes are short fibers, the spun silk short fibers are formed by re-spinning leftovers and waste silk after silkworm cocoon spinning, and due to the fact that silk bundles and wool particles exist in the spun silk short fibers, yarns produced by the three spinning processes cannot completely solve the quality problems of poor wool particles and evenness and the like, the attractiveness of clothes is affected, and if wool burning and mercerization treatment is added subsequently, the elasticity of the yarns is poor, the color of the yarns is changed to be yellow, and the wearing comfort is affected.

Secondly, the three spinning processes have the problems of long spinning process flow and high processing cost:

the fine spinning process comprises the working procedures of strip making → multiple drawing → roving → spun yarn → doubling → twisting and the like;

the semi-worsted technology is to pass through the working procedures of the opening of the silk cotton ball → the stretch breaking → the wool making → the cotton carding → a plurality of times of drawing → the roving → the spun yarn → the doubling → the twisting, etc.;

the carding spinning process also passes through the procedures of silk cotton ball opening → snapping → wool → carding → spun yarn → doubling → twisting, etc.;

the three spinning processes have the quality problems that the quality is obvious and difficult to overcome:

the worsted fabric has cotton grain wool and big belly yarn defects;

semi-worsted has the quality problems of easy fluffing, pilling, easy hair falling and the like;

the quality problems of the woolen yarn such as easy fluffing and pilling exist.

With the continuous improvement of the wearing performance requirements of consumers on silk and cashmere products, the requirements on the silk and cashmere products suitable for being worn in four seasons are increased, and the consumption requirements of the special cashmere yarns and knitwear thereof, which are compatible with bright and beautiful silk fibers, soft luster, moisture absorption, ventilation, lightness, smoothness, light and light cashmere texture, soft hand feeling, high elasticity and good heat retention, in the current industry are not realized.

Disclosure of Invention

In order to solve the above problems, an object of the present invention is to provide a cashmere fancy yarn and a method for manufacturing a knitted fabric thereof. The cashmere fancy yarn is produced by adopting the carded cashmere single yarn with excellent characteristics and the boiled yarn after the degumming of a plurality of raw silks through the fancy twisting machine, the produced cashmere fancy yarn has uniform twist, smooth and clean surface and good glossiness, and can effectively solve the quality problems of easy fluffing, pilling, easy hair falling and the like of a spinning product; moreover, the preparation of the two materials saves a lot of time and solves the problem of longer processing flow; a second object of the present invention is to provide a method for producing a knitted fabric using cashmere design yarn as a raw material.

In order to achieve the purpose, the invention adopts the following technical scheme: the method comprises the following steps:

s1: the preparation method of the cashmere single yarn comprises the steps of preparing cashmere single yarn,

the cashmere fiber adopts the preparation process of wool, carding and spun yarn;

s2: preparing the cooked silk by the method of the first step,

selecting silkworm cocoons, preparing raw silk by the procedures of cocoon mixing, cocoon peeling, cocoon selection, cocoon cooking, silk reeling, re-shaking, finishing, inspection and the like, twisting a plurality of raw silk into thicker raw silk, and degumming the thicker raw silk to obtain cooked silk;

s3: and (4) manufacturing cashmere fancy yarns, namely using the cashmere single yarns prepared in the step S1 as core yarns of a fancy twisting machine, using the boiled silks prepared in the step S2 as pressing lines of the fancy twisting machine, wrapping and twisting the boiled silks around the cashmere single yarns, and producing the cashmere fancy yarns by a hollow spindle twisting principle of the fancy twisting machine.

In the technical scheme, the procedures of doubling and double twisting are omitted in the preparation of the cashmere single yarn, raw silk is produced by silk reeling from silkworm cocoons, the production time of making short fibers from spun silk is omitted, and the process flow is greatly shortened in the aspect of raw material acquisition. And moreover, the silk-covered cashmere single yarn is twisted by a fancy twisting machine, which is obviously different from the prior doubling twisting technology, the obtained cashmere fancy yarn has uniform twist, smooth surface and soft texture, and the quality problem generated by the prior cashmere spinning is effectively solved.

Preferably, in step S1, the cashmere fibers have a fineness of 15 to 16 microns and a length of 32 to 34 mm; when the cashmere fiber is twisted in a spinning machine after carding, the twisting direction is Z twist, the yarn count of the cashmere single yarn is 26NM, and the twist is 480 twist/meter. In the technical scheme, in order to meet the characteristics of good pilling resistance, uniform yarn evenness and good strength of cashmere single yarns, the length of cashmere fibers is increased to 32-34 mm from the conventional 29-30 mm, and the twist of 26NM cashmere single yarns is increased to 480 twist/m from the conventional 440 twist/m; the scheme is not only exquisite in raw materials, but also innovated in process, so that the cashmere single yarn as a core wire is not easy to break.

Preferably, in step S2, the raw silk is 20D raw silk, and is twisted into 20D × 2 raw silk in a one-step twisting machine, the twisting direction is Z twist, the yarn count of the 20D × 2 raw silk is 143NM, the twist is 450 twist/m, and the prepared 20D × 2 raw silk is degummed to obtain 20D × 2 raw silk. In the technical scheme, the 20D raw silk is twisted into 20D 2 by 2 raw silk in a one-step twisting machine, and then the 20D 2 by 2 raw silk is subjected to degumming treatment to obtain 20D 2 by 2 boiled silk.

Preferably, in step S3, when the 20D × 2 rips are twisted around the cashmere single yarn, the twisting direction is S twist, the yarn count of the resulting cashmere fancy yarn is 22NM, the twist is 520 twists/m, and the tension of the covered cashmere single yarn is 1.03. In the technical scheme, the cashmere fancy yarn produced by the two materials through the hollow spindle twisting principle of the fancy twisting machine has the characteristics of uniform twist, smooth yarn surface and good glossiness. In addition, in order to make the tension of the cashmere single yarn proper, the tension of 1.03 is applied to the cashmere single yarn in the twisting and winding process, and the purpose is that if the tension is too high, the cashmere single yarn is easy to break as a core yarn, and if the tension is too loose, the twist of the cashmere fancy yarn is uneven. Finally, the twist is designed during twisting so that the yarn has certain physical and mechanical properties such as strength, elasticity, elongation, gloss, hand feeling and the like, the twist is designed to be 520 twists/m and is moderate, the twist is high, the hand feeling of the formed fancy yarn is hard, the gloss is poor, and the fancy yarn is oblique; if the twist is too low, the sheet is inclined, and the anti-pilling performance of the formed fancy yarn is poor, so that the long-term use is influenced.

Preferably, the 22NM cashmere fancy yarn needs to be subjected to electronic yarn cleaning treatment by a full-automatic winder; and after yarn clearing, winding into 3-degree 30-minute conical cheese to finish the preparation of the cashmere fancy yarn. In the technical scheme, the electronic yarn cleaning treatment is to remove yarn defects which affect the product quality.

The method for manufacturing the knitwear is characterized in that the knitwear is a ready-made garment woven by the cashmere fancy yarn through a knitting computerized flat knitting machine; the ready-made clothes are made of a single-side weft plain stitch structure of a 14-needle computerized flat knitting machine: the transverse needle density is 64.5 needle loops/10 cm, and the longitudinal needle density is 41 needle loops/10 cm. The technical scheme is that the conventional computer woven garment takes cashmere fancy yarn as a material.

Preferably, the ready-made clothes woven by the 14-needle computerized flat knitting machine needs to be washed and softened: soaking in water at 30-40 deg.C, adding nonionic detergent 1% of the weight of the ready-made clothes, soaking for more than 30 min, and stirring the ready-made clothes in the soaking solution every 3-5 min. The technical scheme is that the woven ready-made clothes need to be washed and softened.

Preferably, the ready-made clothes after the water softening treatment needs to be washed and shrunk in a washing and shrinking machine: applying a fulling agent accounting for 2 percent of the weight of the ready-made clothes, at a bath ratio of 1:30 and a temperature of 40-50 ℃, and adjusting the washing shrinkage time according to the line condition of the ready-made clothes. The technical scheme is that the ready-made clothes are washed and shrunk in a washing and shrinking machine after being washed and softened.

Preferably, the washed and shrunk ready-made clothes are subjected to softening treatment after dehydration: applying a smoothing agent and a cashmere softening agent which account for 6 percent of the weight of the ready-made clothes in a treatment solution with the temperature of 45-50 ℃ and the bath ratio of 1:10, and soaking the ready-made clothes in the softening treatment solution for 20-30 minutes. The technical scheme is that the ready-made clothes are soaked in softening treatment liquid for softening treatment after being washed and shrunk.

Preferably, the knitted garment is dehydrated after being soaked in the softening treatment solution and then is subjected to steam ironing and pre-shaping, then the knitted garment is dried by a dryer, and the dried garment is subjected to size shaping and ironing to complete the preparation of the knitted fabric.

Through detection, the product quality indexes of the silk cashmere fancy yarn and the product thereof reach the national industry standard requirements of FZ/T71006 cashmere knitting wool and FZ/T73009 cashmere knitwear. The manufactured silk cashmere product not only keeps the characteristics of bright and beautiful real silk fibers, soft luster, moisture absorption, ventilation, lightness and smoothness, but also keeps the characteristics of lightness, soft hand feeling, high elasticity and good heat retention of cashmere, and the anti-pilling performance of the product reaches level 4. Compared with the prior silk cashmere fiber yarn production technology, the invention improves the quality of silk cashmere products, enriches the styles of the silk cashmere products, greatly improves the wearability of knitwear and improves the added values of two precious raw materials.

Detailed Description

Embodiments of the invention are described in detail below, with the terms "first" and "second" used for descriptive purposes only and not to be construed as indicating or implying relative importance or implying any number of technical features indicated. Thus, a feature defined as "first" or "second" may explicitly or implicitly include one or more of that feature. In the description of the present invention, unless otherwise specified, "a plurality" means two or more unless explicitly defined otherwise.

In the present invention, unless otherwise expressly specified or limited, the terms "mounted," "connected," "secured," and the like are to be construed broadly and can, for example, be fixedly connected, detachably connected, or integrally connected; can be mechanically or electrically connected; they may be connected directly or indirectly through intervening media, or they may be interconnected between two elements. The specific meanings of the above terms in the present invention can be understood by those skilled in the art according to specific situations.

In the present invention, unless otherwise expressly stated or limited, "above" or "below" a first feature means that the first and second features are in direct contact, or that the first and second features are not in direct contact but are in contact with each other via another feature therebetween. Also, the first feature being "on," "above" and "over" the second feature includes the first feature being directly on and obliquely above the second feature, or merely indicating that the first feature is at a higher level than the second feature. A first feature being "under," "below," and "beneath" a second feature includes the first feature being directly under and obliquely below the second feature, or simply meaning that the first feature is at a lesser elevation than the second feature.

The first embodiment is as follows:

the invention provides a method for manufacturing cashmere fancy yarn, which comprises the following steps:

in the step, the procedures of doubling and double twisting are omitted in the preparation of the cashmere single yarn, so that the process time is shortened; cashmere fiber with fineness of 15-16 microns and length of 32-34 mm is adopted as raw materials; in the process, when the cashmere fiber is twisted in a spinning frame after carding, the twist degree is 480 twists/meter, the twisting direction is Z twist, and the yarn count is 26 NM. It should be noted here that the conventional length of cashmere fibres is 29-30 mm, while the conventional twist of 26NM cashmere single yarn is 440 twists/m. The raw materials are selected carefully and the process is innovative, so that the twisted cashmere single yarn meets the characteristics of softness, lightness, good pilling resistance, evenness and good strength, and the cashmere single yarn is difficult to break when used as a core wire.

S2: preparing the cooked silk by the method of the first step,

in the step, raw silk is only produced by silk reeling of silkworm cocoons, so that the production time for manufacturing short fibers by spun silk on the market at present is saved, and the process flow is greatly shortened in raw material acquisition. Here, it should be noted that, in the production of the boiled silk, 20D raw silk is required, the twist number is designed to be 450 twists/m, the yarn count is 143NM, the twisting direction is Z twist, the raw silk is twisted into 20D × 2 in a one-step twisting machine, and the boiled silk of 20D × 2 is obtained after the raw silk of 20D × 2 is degummed.

S3: and (3) producing cashmere fancy yarns, namely using the cashmere single yarns prepared in the step S1 as core yarns of a fancy twisting machine, using the 20D x 2 boiled yarns prepared in the step S2 as pressing yarns of the fancy twisting machine, wrapping and twisting the boiled yarns around the cashmere single yarns, and producing the cashmere fancy yarns by a hollow spindle twisting principle of the fancy twisting machine.

It is important to note here that the cashmere single yarn cannot be combined with the filaments by conventional doubling twisting, since the filaments are smooth in character and cannot form cohesive forces with the cashmere single yarn. In addition, the cashmere single yarn with the count of 26NM is different from the silk count of 143NM, so that the cashmere single yarn and the silk count are not normally combined together.

Therefore, the silk-covered cashmere single yarn is twisted by the fancy twisting machine, which is obviously different from the prior doubling twisting technology, the obtained cashmere fancy yarn has uniform twist, smooth surface and soft texture, and the quality problem generated by the prior cashmere spinning is effectively solved.

When the 20D 2 is twisted around the cashmere single yarn, the twisting direction is S twist, the yarn number is 22NM, the twist is 520 twist/m, and the tension of the cashmere single yarn is 1.03. With such arrangement, if the tension of the cashmere single yarn is too high in the twisting and winding process, the cashmere single yarn is easy to break as a core wire, and if the tension is too loose, the twist of the cashmere fancy yarn is uneven. Finally, the twist is designed during twisting so that the yarn has certain physical and mechanical properties such as strength, elasticity, elongation, gloss, hand feeling and the like, the twist is designed to be 520 twists/m and is moderate, the twist is high, the hand feeling of the formed fancy yarn is hard, the gloss is poor, and the fancy yarn is oblique; if the twist is too low, the sheet is inclined, and the anti-pilling performance of the formed fancy yarn is poor, so that the long-term use is influenced.

The 22NM cashmere fancy yarn is required to be subjected to electronic yarn cleaning treatment by a full-automatic winder; and after yarn clearing, winding into 3-degree 30-minute conical cheese to finish the preparation of the cashmere fancy yarn. The electronic yarn clearing treatment is to clear yarn defects influencing the yarn quality, and the following yarn clearing parameters are set in each channel of the electronic yarn clearer to complete the yarn clearing process:

the amplitude of the hair grains is as follows: + 150%, length: 1.8 cm of the total weight of the rubber,

short and thick amplitude: + 180%, length: 2.5 cm of the total weight of the rubber,

length and thickness: + 40%, length: the length of the groove is 15 cm,

length and breadth: -40%, length: 15 cm.

Example two:

the invention provides a method for manufacturing knitwear, which is manufactured by cashmere fancy yarn obtained in the first embodiment;

weaving cashmere fancy yarns into ready-made clothes by using a computerized flat knitting machine:

the single-side weft plain stitch structure of the 14-needle computerized flat knitting machine has a transverse needle density of 64.5 needle loops/10 cm and a longitudinal needle density of 41 needle loops/10 cm.

Secondly, the ready-made clothes woven by the 14-pin computerized flat knitting machine need to be washed and softened:

soaking in water at 30-40 deg.C, adding nonionic detergent 1% of the weight of the ready-made clothes, soaking for more than 30 min, and stirring the ready-made clothes in the soaking solution every 3-5 min.

Thirdly, the ready-made clothes after the water softening and washing treatment need to be washed and shrunk in a washing and shrinking machine:

applying a fulling agent accounting for 2 percent of the weight of the ready-made clothes, at a bath ratio of 1:30 and a temperature of 40-50 ℃, and adjusting the washing shrinkage time according to the line condition of the ready-made clothes.

Fourthly, the washed and shrunk ready-made clothes are dehydrated and then are subjected to softening treatment:

applying a smoothing agent and a cashmere softening agent which account for 6 percent of the weight of the ready-made clothes in a treatment solution with the temperature of 45-50 ℃ and the bath ratio of 1:10, and soaking the ready-made clothes in the softening treatment solution for 20-30 minutes.

Fifthly, dewatering the knitted garment after soaking in the softening treatment solution, then performing steam ironing presetting, then drying by using a dryer, and then performing size setting ironing on the dried garment to finish the preparation of the knitwear.

The knitwear manufactured by the method not only keeps the characteristics of bright and beautiful real silk fibers, soft luster, moisture absorption, ventilation, lightness and smoothness, but also keeps the characteristics of lightness, soft hand feeling, high elasticity and good heat retention of cashmere, and has obvious improvement on the quality and the process of the existing cashmere spinning products.

In the description herein, references to the description of the term "one embodiment," "some embodiments," "an example," "a specific example," or "some examples," etc., mean that a particular feature, structure, material, or characteristic described in connection with the embodiment or example is included in at least one embodiment or example of the invention. In this specification, the schematic representations of the terms used above do not necessarily refer to the same embodiment or example. Furthermore, the particular features, structures, materials, or characteristics described may be combined in any suitable manner in any one or more embodiments or examples.

Although embodiments of the present invention have been shown and described above, it is understood that the above embodiments are exemplary and should not be construed as limiting the present invention, and that variations, modifications, substitutions and alterations can be made in the above embodiments by those of ordinary skill in the art without departing from the principle and spirit of the present invention.

Claims

1. A method for manufacturing cashmere fancy yarn is characterized in that: the method comprises the following steps:

s2: preparing the cooked silk by the method of the first step,

2. The method for manufacturing cashmere fancy yarn according to claim 1, wherein the method comprises the following steps: in step S1, the cashmere fibers have a fineness of 15 to 16 microns and a length of 32 to 34 millimeters; when the cashmere fiber is twisted in a spinning machine after carding, the twisting direction is Z twist, the yarn count of the cashmere single yarn is 26NM, and the twist is 480 twist/meter.

3. The method for manufacturing cashmere fancy yarn according to claim 1, wherein the method comprises the following steps: in step S2, the raw silks are 20D raw silks, and are twisted into 20D × 2 raw silks in a one-step twisting machine, the twisting direction is Z twist, the yarn count of the 20D × 2 raw silks is 143NM, the twist is 450 twist/m, and the prepared 20D × 2 raw silks are degummed to obtain 20D × 2 boiled silks.

4. The method for manufacturing cashmere fancy yarn according to claim 1, wherein the method comprises the following steps: in step S3, when the 20D × 2 rips are wrapped and twisted around the cashmere single yarn, the twisting direction is S twist, the yarn count of the resulting cashmere fancy yarn is 22NM, the twist is 520 twist/m, and the tension of the wrapped cashmere single yarn is 1.03.

5. The method for manufacturing cashmere fancy yarn according to claim 4, wherein the method comprises the following steps: the 22NM cashmere fancy yarn needs to be subjected to electronic yarn cleaning treatment by a full-automatic winder; and after yarn clearing, winding into 3-degree 30-minute conical cheese to finish the preparation of the cashmere fancy yarn.

6. A method for manufacturing knitwear is characterized in that: the knitwear is a ready-made garment woven by the cashmere fancy yarn of claim 5 through a computerized flat knitting machine; the ready-made clothes are made of a single-side weft plain stitch structure of a 14-needle computerized flat knitting machine: the transverse needle density is 64.5 needle loops/10 cm, and the longitudinal needle density is 41 needle loops/10 cm.

7. A method of producing knitwear as claimed in claim 6, characterized in that: the ready-made clothes woven by the 14-needle computerized flat knitting machine need to be washed and softened: soaking in water at 30-40 deg.C, adding nonionic detergent 1% of the weight of the ready-made clothes, soaking for more than 30 min, and stirring the ready-made clothes in the soaking solution every 3-5 min.

8. A method of producing knitwear as claimed in claim 7, wherein: the ready-made clothes after the water softening treatment need to be put into a washing and shrinking machine for washing and shrinking: applying a fulling agent accounting for 2 percent of the weight of the ready-made clothes, at a bath ratio of 1:30 and a temperature of 40-50 ℃, and adjusting the washing shrinkage time according to the line condition of the ready-made clothes.

9. A method of producing knitwear as claimed in claim 8, characterized in that: and (3) softening the washed and shrunk ready-made clothes after dehydration: applying a smoothing agent and a cashmere softening agent which account for 6 percent of the weight of the ready-made clothes in a treatment solution with the temperature of 45-50 ℃ and the bath ratio of 1:10, and soaking the ready-made clothes in the softening treatment solution for 20-30 minutes.

10. A method of producing knitwear as claimed in claim 9, characterized in that: and (3) dehydrating the knitted garment after soaking in the softening treatment solution, then performing steam ironing and pre-shaping, drying by using a dryer, and performing size shaping and ironing on the dried garment to finish the preparation of the knitwear.