The preparation method of a kind of pure cashmere plucking yarn and hosiery item thereof
Technical field
The invention belongs to textile technology field, relate in particular to a kind of preparation method of cashmere yarn.
Background technology
Cashmere fibres belongs to rare special animal fiber, not only output rareness (Jin Zhan world animal origin total output0.2%), and best in quality, in transaction, gram to determine the price, be it is believed that it is " fiber jewel ", " fiber queen ", be currentAll textile raw materials that the mankind can utilize are all incomparable. As high-grade cashmere product, it is very tender and lovely, its featureThe true skin as " baby ", soft, fine and smooth, smooth, but short due to its fiber finer, therefore the intensity of product, wear-resisting, pilling tendencyThe indices such as energy are all not as wool, improve cashmere produce wearability, to promote its surcharge imperative.Cashmere fibres adopts still occuping market leading position of slubbing Spinning process, although slubbing cashmere produce outward appearance exquisiteness is richFull, soft glutinous cunning, wears merrily and lightheartedly comfortablely, and warmth retention property is good, but fine hair length is restricted, and finished product elasticity is poor; Matte height,The smooth degree of feel is subject to wash water technogenic influence, is difficult to keep style consistent, and elasticity is poor.
Summary of the invention
The present invention is directed to deficiency of the prior art, the making of a kind of pure cashmere plucking yarn and hosiery item thereof is providedMethod, this cashmere galled yarn and hosiery item quality softness thereof, exquisiteness, smooth. When matte is short and thin, fabric elasticity is splendid, tableFace is slim and graceful, soft, glutinous cunning, can make thermal protection coat and scarf. When matte is long and plentiful, fabric is warming, slim and graceful, is applicable toThe making of cashmere overcoat.
In order to solve the problems of the technologies described above, the present invention is solved by following technical proposals, a kind of pure cashmere galled yarnThe preparation method of line and hosiery item thereof, mainly comprises following step: steps A): select fineness at 15.8 μ m ~ 16.7 μM, length be at the cashmere fibres of 36mm ~ 38mm, by and hair-carding-reason bar-combing-silver mixing-recombing-pinComb-rove-spun yarn-winder-yarn steaming process prepare yarn count 45Nm ~ 50Nm, the twist 850 twists/m ~ 900 twists/m,Twist with the fingers the cashmere single thread to Z-direction; Step B): select fineness at 15.8 μ m ~ 16.7 μ m, length the cashmere fibre at 36mm ~ 38mmDimension, by and hair-carding-reason bar-combing-silver mixing-recombing-grilling-rove process prepare cashmere rove; StepRapid C): by Novelty twisters by described cashmere single thread or spun silk single thread or nylon yarn or wrap yarn as heart yearn, solidus, willDescribed cashmere rove is made yarn count at 5.8Nm ~ 14Nm as ornamental thread, the interior sth. made by twisting twist 650 twists/m ~ 920 twists/m, twist with the fingers to" Z ", the outer sth. made by twisting twist 410 twists/m ~ 500 twists/m, twist with the fingers to " S ", overfeeding is than 2.8 ~ 1.8, heart yearn tension force is 5% ~ 11.5%Circle circle Cashmere Yarn Series, the quantity of described circle circle Cashmere Yarn Series centre circle circle be every 20 centimetres containing 37 ~ 53 circle circles; Step D): described in inciting somebody to actionCircle circle Cashmere Yarn Series carries out plucking processing with reeled yarn napper or cylinder yarn galling machine, and the circle circle on described circle circle Cashmere Yarn Series is drawn to loose systemBecome plucking Cashmere Yarn Series, step e): described plucking Cashmere Yarn Series is carried out to yarn steaming processing, and described plucking Cashmere Yarn Series is put into after Yarn steaming boxFirst vacuumize, then Yarn steaming box is warmed up to 80 DEG C, and Yarn steaming box keeps 80 DEG C to carry out after at least 30 minutes cooling; StepF): the cashmere galled yarn after yarn steaming is carried out to rewinding processing, and rewinding speed is at 250 ms/min ~ 350 ms/min, after rewinding finishesCarry out clearing processing, clearing finishes rear described cashmere galled yarn to be waxed; Step G): plucking Cashmere Yarn Series is made to knitting systemProduct, then described hosiery item put into temperature between 45 DEG C ~ 50 DEG C, the bath raio treatment fluid that is 1:10, with described knittingProduct weight percentage meter, comprises the smooth agent, leavening agent and the cashmere softening agent that amount to 6%, after handling in described treatment fluidDescribed hosiery item carries out dewatered drying, finally to the hosiery item flatiron of shaping.
In technique scheme, preferred, in described step C, choose two of cashmere single thread as heart yearn, chooseOne of cashmere single thread is as solidus, chooses two of cashmere rove as ornamental thread, and making yarn count is 5.8Nm, the interior sth. made by twisting twist 650Twist/m, twist with the fingers to " Z ", the outer sth. made by twisting twist 410 twists/m, twist with the fingers to " S ", overfeeding is than 2.8, the circle corralling flock suede of heart yearn tension force 11.5%Yarn, the quantity of described circle circle Cashmere Yarn Series centre circle circle is every 20 centimetres and encloses containing 53 circles.
In technique scheme, preferred, in described step C, choose two of 120Nm spun silk single thread as heart yearn,Making yarn count is 14Nm as ornamental thread to choose two of cashmere rove as solidus to choose one of 20Nm spun silk single thread, and interior sth. made by twisting is twisted with the fingersSpend 720 twists/m, twist with the fingers to " Z ", the outer sth. made by twisting twist 410 twists/m, twist with the fingers to " S ", overfeeding is than 2.5, the circle corralling flock of heart yearn tension force 5%Suede yarn, the quantity of described circle circle Cashmere Yarn Series centre circle circle is every 20 centimetres and encloses containing 50 circles.
In technique scheme, preferred, in described step C, choose wrap yarn, the each conduct of 70D nylon yarnHeart yearn, chooses one, 70D nylon yarn as solidus, chooses two of cashmere rove as ornamental thread, and making yarn count is 8Nm, interior sth. made by twisting920 twists/m of the twists, twist with the fingers to " Z ", the outer sth. made by twisting twist 500 twists/m, twist with the fingers to " S ", overfeeding is than 1.8, the circle of heart yearn tension force 9.5%Circle Cashmere Yarn Series, the quantity of described circle circle Cashmere Yarn Series centre circle circle is every 20 centimetres and encloses containing 37 circles.
In technique scheme, preferred, in described step F, described in the amount of waxing be 0.8 gram of wax ~ 2.2 gram wax/thousandGram cashmere galled yarn.
Compare in conventional woven and mostly use mohair yarn to make cashmere galled yarn, cashmere galled yarn of the present invention is to enclose by circleCashmere Yarn Series carries out obtaining after plucking processing. Because cashmere galled yarn belongs to fancy wool yarn, there is certain specificity, now onlyThere are mohair yarn and similar hair product can directly produce satisfactory cashmere galled yarn. The present invention can be by commonCashmere yarn is first made circle circle Cashmere Yarn Series, and then draws and fall apart into cashmere galled yarn, makes common cashmere also can make cashmere and drawsWool yarn, makes raw-material source more extensive, and cashmere galled yarn output increases, cost. Because circle circle Cashmere Yarn Series shape spyVery, there is several circles, in the time manufacturing cashmere galled yarn, only circle circle need to be drawn and falls apart with regard to self-assembling formation galled yarn, compare Ma HaiThe galled yarn that hair is directly made, strong by the produced cashmere galled yarn of this Loop Yarns transformation of ownership method surface feel of wool, its pinFabric products surface is smooth, and workprint is evenly distributed, and the cashmere galled yarn producing compared with traditional handicraft is more good.
Compared with prior art, cashmere galled yarn and the hosiery item thereof produced by the present invention, not only soft, fine and smooth,Smooth, and fine hair length, elasticity size, sharpness of lines can like design according to consumer, greatly promotes wearability, timeStill and attractive in appearance.
Detailed description of the invention
Below in conjunction with detailed description of the invention, the present invention is described in further detail.
In literary composition, overfeeding is than being ornamental thread and heart yearn feeding speed ratio.
Embodiment 1, the preparation method of a kind of pure cashmere plucking yarn and hosiery item thereof, mainly comprises following stepSuddenly. Steps A): select fineness at 15.8 μ m μ m, length the cashmere fibres at 36mm, by and hair-carding-reason bar-essenceComb-silver mixing-recombing-grilling-rove-spun yarn-winder-yarn steaming process prepare yarn count in 45Nm, the twist 850Twist/m, twist with the fingers to the cashmere single thread of Z-direction. Step B): select fineness at 15.8 μ m, length the cashmere fibres at 36mm, pass throughAnd hair-carding-reason bar-combing-silver mixing-recombing-grilling-rove process is prepared cashmere rove. Pure cashmere fibreHaving relatively high expectations with hair of dimension, first must select solubility high and crude oil, there is the antistatic additive of moisture absorption and conductive characteristic, reduceThe gathering of electrostatic charge, makes fiber softening level and smooth; Secondly require and crude oil consumption is wanted suitably, spray and want evenly, sprinkling is not too much orEvenly all can cause tangling of wool and carding roller card clothing, hinder normal combing, increase card nailing neps content, and cause fibre damage.Step C): choose two of 45Nm cashmere single thread as heart yearn, choose one of 45Nm cashmere single thread as solidus, choose 2NmAs ornamental thread, then make yarn count by Novelty twisters is 5.8Nm to two of cashmere rove, 650 twists/m of the interior sth. made by twisting twists, sth. made by twistingTo " Z ", the outer sth. made by twisting twist 410 twists/m, twist with the fingers to " S ", overfeeding is than 2.8, the circle circle Cashmere Yarn Series of heart yearn tension force 11.5%, described inThe quantity of circle circle Cashmere Yarn Series centre circle circle is every 20 centimetres and encloses containing 53 circles. Step D): by described circle circle Cashmere Yarn Series reeled yarn pluckingMachine or cylinder yarn galling machine carry out plucking processing, and the circle circle on described circle circle Cashmere Yarn Series is drawn to the loose plucking Cashmere Yarn Series of making. Step e):Described plucking Cashmere Yarn Series is carried out to yarn steaming processing, after described plucking Cashmere Yarn Series is put into Yarn steaming box, first vacuumize, then steamYarn case is warmed up to 80 DEG C, and Yarn steaming box keeps 80 DEG C to carry out after at least 30 minutes cooling. Step F): by the cashmere plucking after yarn steamingYarn carries out rewinding processing, and rewinding speed, at 250 ms/min, is carried out clearing processing after rewinding finishes, and yarn clearing parameter can be set to: hairGrain: 3.5, short and thick amplitude: 2.6, short and thick length: 2.5 centimetres, long thick length: 20 centimetres, long thick amplitude: 55%, long flexibility: 20Centimetre, long thin amplitude :-50%. Clearing finishes rear described cashmere galled yarn to be waxed, and the amount of waxing is 0.8 gram of wax/kilogram sheepSuede galled yarn. Step G): plucking Cashmere Yarn Series is made to hosiery item, then described hosiery item is put into temperature 45 DEG C ~ 50Between DEG C, in the bath raio treatment fluid that is 1:10, with described hosiery item weight percent meter, comprise total in described treatment fluid6% smooth agent, leavening agent and cashmere softening agent, handle rear described hosiery item and carry out dewatered drying, finally to hosiery itemThe flatiron of shaping.
Embodiment 2, the preparation method of a kind of pure cashmere plucking yarn and hosiery item thereof, mainly comprises following stepSuddenly. Steps A): select fineness at 16.7 μ m μ m, length the cashmere fibres at 38mm, by and hair-carding-reason bar-essenceComb-silver mixing-recombing-grilling-rove-spun yarn-winder-yarn steaming process prepare yarn count in 50Nm, the twist 850Twist/m, twist with the fingers to the cashmere single thread of Z-direction. Step B): select fineness at 16.7 μ m, length the cashmere fibres at 38mm, pass throughAnd hair-carding-reason bar-combing-silver mixing-recombing-grilling-rove process is prepared cashmere rove. Pure cashmere fibreHaving relatively high expectations with hair of dimension, first must select solubility high and crude oil, there is the antistatic additive of moisture absorption and conductive characteristic, reduceThe gathering of electrostatic charge, makes fiber softening level and smooth; Secondly require and crude oil consumption is wanted suitably, spray and want evenly, sprinkling is not too much orEvenly all can cause tangling of wool and carding roller card clothing, hinder normal combing, increase card nailing neps content, and cause fibre damage.Step C): choose two of 48Nm cashmere single thread as heart yearn, choose one of 48Nm cashmere single thread as solidus, choose 2NmAs ornamental thread, then make yarn count by Novelty twisters is 8Nm to two of cashmere rove, 800 twists/m of the interior sth. made by twisting twists, twist with the fingers to" Z ", the outer sth. made by twisting twist 450 twists/m, twist with the fingers to " S ", overfeeding is than 2.4, the circle circle Cashmere Yarn Series of heart yearn tension force 8%, described circle corralling flockThe quantity of suede yarn centre circle circle is every 20 centimetres and encloses containing 53 circles. Step D): by reeled yarn napper or cylinder for described circle circle Cashmere Yarn SeriesYarn galling machine carries out plucking processing, and the circle circle on described circle circle Cashmere Yarn Series is drawn to the loose plucking Cashmere Yarn Series of making. Step e): described in inciting somebody to actionPlucking Cashmere Yarn Series carries out yarn steaming processing, first vacuumizes then Yarn steaming box liter after described plucking Cashmere Yarn Series is put into Yarn steaming boxTemperature is to 80 DEG C, and Yarn steaming box keeps 80 DEG C to carry out after at least 30 minutes cooling. Step F): the cashmere galled yarn after yarn steaming is carried outRewinding processing, rewinding speed, at 300 ms/min, is carried out clearing processing after rewinding finishes, and yarn clearing parameter can be set to: card nailing neps: 3.5,Short and thick amplitude: 2.6, short and thick length: 2.5 centimetres, long thick length: 20 centimetres, long thick amplitude: 55%, long flexibility: 20 centimetres, longThin amplitude :-50%. Clearing finishes rear described cashmere galled yarn to be waxed, and the amount of waxing is 1.4 grams of waxes/kilogram cashmere pluckingYarn. Step G): plucking Cashmere Yarn Series is made to hosiery item, then described hosiery item put into temperature between 45 DEG C ~ 50 DEG C,Bath raio is in the treatment fluid of 1:10, with described hosiery item weight percent meter, comprises the flat of total 6% in described treatment fluidLubrication prescription, leavening agent and cashmere softening agent, handle rear described hosiery item and carry out dewatered drying, finally hosiery item determinedType flatiron.
Embodiment 3, the preparation method of a kind of pure cashmere plucking yarn and hosiery item thereof, mainly comprises following stepSuddenly. Steps A): select fineness at 16.3 μ m μ m, length the cashmere fibres at 37mm, by and hair-carding-reason bar-essenceComb-silver mixing-recombing-grilling-rove-spun yarn-winder-yarn steaming process prepare yarn count in 48Nm, the twist 870Twist/m, twist with the fingers to the cashmere single thread of Z-direction. Step B): select fineness at 16.3 μ m, length the cashmere fibres at 37mm, logicalCross and hair-carding-reason bar-combing-silver mixing-recombing-grilling-rove process is prepared cashmere rove. Pure cashmereHaving relatively high expectations with hair of fiber, first must select solubility high and crude oil, there is the antistatic additive of moisture absorption and conductive characteristic, subtractThe gathering of few electrostatic charge, makes fiber softening level and smooth; Secondly require and crude oil consumption is wanted suitably, spray and want evenly, spray too much orInhomogeneously all can cause tangling of wool and carding roller card clothing, hinder normal combing, increase card nailing neps content, and cause fiber to damageWound. Step C): choose two of 50Nm cashmere single thread as heart yearn, choose one of 50Nm cashmere single thread as solidus, chooseAs ornamental thread, then make yarn count by Novelty twisters is 14Nm to two of 2Nm cashmere rove, 920 twists/m of the interior sth. made by twisting twists,Twist with the fingers to " Z ", the outer sth. made by twisting twist 500 twists/m, twist with the fingers to " S ", overfeeding is than 1.8, the circle circle Cashmere Yarn Series of heart yearn tension force 5%, described circleThe quantity of circle Cashmere Yarn Series centre circle circle is every 20 centimetres and encloses containing 53 circles. Step D): by described circle circle Cashmere Yarn Series reeled yarn napperOr a cylinder yarn galling machine carries out plucking processing, the circle circle on described circle circle Cashmere Yarn Series is drawn to the loose plucking Cashmere Yarn Series of making. Step e): willDescribed plucking Cashmere Yarn Series carries out yarn steaming processing, first vacuumizes then yarn steaming after described plucking Cashmere Yarn Series is put into Yarn steaming boxCase is warmed up to 80 DEG C, and Yarn steaming box keeps 80 DEG C to carry out after at least 30 minutes cooling. Step F): by the cashmere galled yarn after yarn steamingCarry out rewinding processing, rewinding speed, at 350 ms/min, is carried out clearing processing after rewinding finishes, and yarn clearing parameter can be set to: card nailing neps:3.5, short and thick amplitude: 2.6, short and thick length: 2.5 centimetres, long thick length: 20 centimetres, long thick amplitude: 55%, long flexibility: 20 lisRice, long thin amplitude :-50%. Clearing finishes rear described cashmere galled yarn to be waxed, and the amount of waxing is 2.2 grams of waxes/kilogram cashmereGalled yarn. Step G): plucking Cashmere Yarn Series is made to hosiery item, then described hosiery item is put into temperature at 45 DEG C ~ 50 DEG CBetween, in the bath raio treatment fluid that is 1:10, with described hosiery item weight percent meter, in described treatment fluid, comprise and amount to 6%Smooth agent, leavening agent and cashmere softening agent, handle rear described hosiery item and carry out dewatered drying, finally hosiery item is enteredRow sizing flatiron.
Embodiment 4, the preparation method of a kind of pure cashmere plucking yarn and hosiery item thereof, mainly comprises following stepSuddenly. Steps A): select fineness at 15.8 μ m, length the cashmere fibres at 36mm, by and hair-carding-reason bar-essenceComb-silver mixing-recombing-grilling-rove process is prepared cashmere rove. Having relatively high expectations with hair of pure cashmere fibres, headFirst must select solubility high and crude oil, there is the antistatic additive of moisture absorption and conductive characteristic, reduce the gathering of electrostatic charge, make fiberFlexible smooth; Secondly requirement and crude oil consumption are wanted suitably, spray and want even, spray too much or inhomogeneous wool and the comb of all can causingTangling of reason roller card clothing, hinders normal combing, increases card nailing neps content, and causes fibre damage. Step B): choose 120Nm spun silkTwo of single thread are as heart yearn, choose one of 20Nm spun silk single thread as solidus, choose two of cashmere rove as ornamental thread, makeYarn count is 14Nm, 720 twists/m of the interior sth. made by twisting twists, twist with the fingers to " Z ", the outer sth. made by twisting twist 410 twists/m, twist with the fingers to " S ", overfeeding is than 2.5,The circle circle Cashmere Yarn Series of heart yearn tension force 5%, the quantity of described circle circle Cashmere Yarn Series centre circle circle is every 20 centimetres and encloses containing 50 circles. Step C):Described circle circle Cashmere Yarn Series is carried out to plucking processing with reeled yarn napper or cylinder yarn galling machine, by the circle circle on described circle circle Cashmere Yarn SeriesDraw the loose plucking Cashmere Yarn Series of making. Step D): described plucking Cashmere Yarn Series is carried out to yarn steaming processing, and described plucking Cashmere Yarn Series is put into yarn steamingAfter case, first vacuumize, then Yarn steaming box is warmed up to 80 DEG C, and Yarn steaming box keeps 80 DEG C to carry out after at least 30 minutes cooling. StepRapid E): the cashmere galled yarn after yarn steaming is carried out to rewinding processing, and rewinding speed, at 250 ms/min, is carried out clearing after rewinding finishesProcess, yarn clearing parameter can be set to: card nailing neps: 3.5, and short and thick amplitude: 2.6, short and thick length: 2.5 centimetres, long thick length: 20 centimetres,Long thick amplitude: 55%, long flexibility: 20 centimetres, long thin amplitude :-50%. Clearing finish rear described cashmere galled yarn is carried out onWax, the amount of waxing is 1.6 grams of waxes/kilogram cashmere galled yarn. Step F): plucking Cashmere Yarn Series is made to hosiery item, then describedHosiery item put into temperature between 45 DEG C ~ 50 DEG C, the bath raio treatment fluid that is 1:10, with described hosiery item percentage by weightMeter, comprises the smooth agent, leavening agent and the cashmere softening agent that amount to 6% in described treatment fluid, handle rear described hosiery item and enterRow dewatered drying, finally to the hosiery item flatiron of shaping. The knitting system of weaving out by the present embodiment plucking Cashmere Yarn SeriesProduct softness, lines is clear, elasticity is good.
Embodiment 5, the preparation method of a kind of pure cashmere plucking yarn and hosiery item thereof, mainly comprises following stepSuddenly. Steps A): select fineness at 15.8 μ m, length the cashmere fibres at 36mm, by and hair-carding-reason bar-essenceComb-silver mixing-recombing-grilling-rove process is prepared cashmere rove. Having relatively high expectations with hair of pure cashmere fibres, headFirst must select solubility high and crude oil, there is the antistatic additive of moisture absorption and conductive characteristic, reduce the gathering of electrostatic charge, make fiberFlexible smooth; Secondly requirement and crude oil consumption are wanted suitably, spray and want even, spray too much or inhomogeneous wool and the comb of all can causingTangling of reason roller card clothing, hinders normal combing, increases card nailing neps content, and causes fibre damage. Step B): choose wrap yarn, 70DEach one of nylon yarn is chosen one, 70D nylon yarn as solidus as heart yearn, chooses two of cashmere rove as ornamental thread, systemOne-tenth yarn count is 8Nm, 920 twists/m of the interior sth. made by twisting twists, twist with the fingers to " Z ", the outer sth. made by twisting twist 500 twists/m, twist with the fingers to " S ", overfeeding is than 1.8,The circle circle Cashmere Yarn Series of heart yearn tension force 9.5%, the quantity of described circle circle Cashmere Yarn Series centre circle circle is every 20 centimetres and encloses containing 37 circles. StepC): described circle circle Cashmere Yarn Series carried out to plucking processing with reeled yarn napper or a cylinder yarn galling machine, by described circle circle Cashmere Yarn SeriesCircle circle draws the loose plucking Cashmere Yarn Series of making. Step D): described plucking Cashmere Yarn Series is carried out to yarn steaming processing, and described plucking Cashmere Yarn Series is put intoAfter Yarn steaming box, first vacuumize, then Yarn steaming box is warmed up to 80 DEG C, and Yarn steaming box keeps 80 DEG C to carry out after at least 30 minutes coldBut. Step e): the cashmere galled yarn after yarn steaming is carried out to rewinding processing, and rewinding speed is at 250 ms/min, and rewinding finishes laggardThe processing of row clearing, yarn clearing parameter can be set to: card nailing neps: 3.5, short and thick amplitude: 2.6, short and thick length: 2.5 centimetres, long thick length:20 centimetres, long thick amplitude: 55%, long flexibility: 20 centimetres, long thin amplitude :-50%. Clearing finishes rear to described cashmere galled yarnWax, the amount of waxing is 1.6 grams of waxes/kilogram cashmere galled yarn. Step F): plucking Cashmere Yarn Series is made to hosiery item, thenDescribed hosiery item put into temperature between 45 DEG C ~ 50 DEG C, the bath raio treatment fluid that is 1:10, with described hosiery item weightPercentage meter, comprises the smooth agent, leavening agent and the cashmere softening agent that amount to 6% in described treatment fluid, handle rear described knittingGoods carry out dewatered drying, finally to the hosiery item flatiron of shaping. Weave out by the present embodiment plucking Cashmere Yarn SeriesHosiery item elasticity is very high, and matte is tight and fine and smooth, warming, fashion.