CN101586278B - Cashmere yarn with high tensile stretch and production technology thereof - Google Patents

Cashmere yarn with high tensile stretch and production technology thereof Download PDF

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Publication number
CN101586278B
CN101586278B CN2009100996469A CN200910099646A CN101586278B CN 101586278 B CN101586278 B CN 101586278B CN 2009100996469 A CN2009100996469 A CN 2009100996469A CN 200910099646 A CN200910099646 A CN 200910099646A CN 101586278 B CN101586278 B CN 101586278B
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cashmere
yarn
production technology
tensile stretch
suede
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CN101586278A (en
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龚熠
丘金元
姬树人
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ZHENBEI CASHMERE PRODUCT CO Ltd HUZHOU CITY
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ZHENBEI CASHMERE PRODUCT CO Ltd HUZHOU CITY
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Abstract

The invention belongs to the technical field of knitting yarns and production technology thereof, in particular relates to a cashmere yarn with high tensile stretch and production technology thereof. The production technology of the cashmere yarn with high tensile stretch includes the followings: in cashmere washing step, drying is carried out at the low temperature of 40 DEG C to 50 DEG C so as to reduce the power damage of cashmere single fiber; in carding step, the card clothing angle of cubing rolls of a carding machine is adjusted between 130 DEG and 150 DEG so that the striking point direction of cubing rolls is changed and the length damage of cashmere is reduced; in dying step, drying is carried out at the low temperature of 50 DEG C to 70 DEG C so as to further reduce the power damage of cashmere single fiber; in spinning step, the twist factor of the single yarn used is 90% to 98%. In the invention, drying is carried out at the low temperature of 40 DEG C to 50 DEG C both in cashmere washing step and in dying step, and the card clothing angle of cubing rolls of a carding machine is adjusted between 130 DEG and 150 DEG in carding step, thereby reducing the damage of cashmere to the maximum and guaranteeing high breaking elongation, rebound degree and force of cashmere.

Description

Cashmere yarn with high tensile stretch and production technology thereof
Technical field
The invention belongs to knitting yarn and technical field of producing thereof, be specifically related to a kind of cashmere yarn with high tensile stretch and production technology thereof.
Background technology
Along with science and technology and development of productivity, the improving constantly of people's living standard, also increasingly high to the requirement of clothes dress, health care, comfortable, attractive in appearance, washing are saved trouble and are become the pursuit of clothing products.Knit goods is because its high resilience, characteristics such as comfortable and easy to wear, meets that people are comfortable to dress ornament, the needs of leisure, and therefore, the demand of domestic market knitted apparel is growth trend year by year.
The Chinese hosiery industry of certificate association statistics, over nearly 5 years, the average growth rate per annum of knitting industry corporate sales volume reaches 15%.Wherein, As middle and high shelves knitted apparel product; With natural cashmere is the knit product of raw material, because of it has soft gloss, good hygroscopicity, drapability, graceful outward appearance and good comfortableness, has become and receives most one of high-quality textile fabrics that people favor.But; The cashmere knit product exists distinct issues always: the fabric wet elasticity is relatively poor; Rebound performance poor (elongation at break of cashmere yarn generally has only 10%~15%) makes that the dimensional stability of product is lower, especially repeatedly washing back easy deformation.According to national textile industry standard and International Wool Secretariat's standard, the carded cashmere yarn belongs to hand washing type knitwear aspect scourability.At present, domestic wool spinning knitting industry adopt usually the shrinkproof processing of auxiliary agent (one, slubbing knitwear that treated wool fibre is processed, two, to the carded woollen knitwear processed through methods such as the shrinkproof processing of row) to improve the DIMENSIONAL STABILITY of product.And cashmere fibres is unfit to do shrinkproof processing because shrinkproof processing can reduce to a certain extent goat cashmere intrinsic good characteristic.
Summary of the invention
The purpose of this invention is to provide a kind of high elongation at tear, rebound degree and powerful cashmere yarn and make the production technology of this kind yarn.
Technical purpose of the present invention realizes through following technical scheme:
The cashmere yarn with high tensile stretch production technology: it comprises: wash suede, branch comb, dyeing and hair, carding, spun yarn, winder, doubling, double twisting step; In washing the suede step, adopt 40 ℃~50 ℃ low temperature drying, to reduce the filamentary strength damage of cashmere; In minute comb step is 130 °~150 ° with carding machine taker-in clothing angle adjustment, thereby changes thorn rod striking point direction, reduces the length damage of cashmere; In staining procedure, adopt 50 ℃~70 ℃ low temperature drying, further reduce the filamentary strength damage of cashmere; In the spun yarn step, adopting single twist multiplier is 90%~98%.
In washing the suede step, adopt three roads to relax shredding, decompose the former suede of bulk during one shredding, remove part grass bits, silt in the former suede during two road shreddings, emphasis is removed the part skin skin in the former suede during three road shreddings.Three roads relax shredding make former suede loosen fully and fibre damage little, the part of impurity is removed and is alleviated the road, back and wash suede and the pressure that divides comb.Select for use neutral lotion and low temperature to wash suede, lower temperature oven dry all lack fibre damage and felting, obtains cleaning and loose clean suede helps branch to comb, and fiber strength and extension at break have just obtained effective protection washing suede first procedure.
As preferably, in minute comb step, two groups of working rolls and epilation roller are set on carding machine, strengthened shredding and combing effect.
As preferably, in minute comb step, two dirt catchers and two carding machines are set, increase the shredding effect carding capacity is improved, thereby when improving each item index, improved the environmental aspect in workshop greatly.The temperature in workshop, humidity, pure and fresh degree not only can improve fibre property, improve the quality of products, and also are the measures that guarantees that the producer is healthy.
As preferably, in staining procedure, add the wool protective agent.Because fiber through the high temperature long time treatment, receives the effect of dye liquor effect and chemical reagent more than light color, coarse, flexibility decrease that handle of fibre becomes, powerful decline for reducing the damage of cashmere in dyeing course, adds an amount of wool protective agent.
As preferably, in the carding step, the short flannel below the 15mm is removed.Fiber is short more; The chance of exposing yarn and surface fiber of the fabric end is also just many more; In addition, frictional force between the staple fibre and cohesive force are much also little relatively, and fiber is easy to generate slippage in the yarn; Balling-up is tangled in the end that makes fiber expose fabric face, and the removal of short flannel has improved the anti-pilling of ready-made clothes significantly.
In the spun yarn step, single twist is 460 sth. made by twisting/m~520 sth. made by twisting/m.
In the double twisting step, two twist per units are 210 sth. made by twisting/m~250 sth. made by twisting/m.
By the cashmere yarn with high tensile stretch production technology, the cashmere yarn with high tensile stretch that makes.
In sum, the present invention has following beneficial effect:
1, the present invention has all adopted 40 ℃~50 ℃ low temperature drying in washing suede and staining procedure; And in minute comb step; With carding machine taker-in clothing angle adjustment is 130 °~150 °, has reduced the damage of cashmere to greatest extent, has guaranteed high elongation at tear, rebound degree and the brute force of cashmere;
2, the present invention is in washing the suede step, adopts three roads to relax shredding, decomposes the former suede of bulk during one shredding, removes part grass bits, silt in the former suede during two road shreddings, and emphasis is removed the part skin skin in the former suede during three road shreddings; Three roads relax shredding make former suede loosen fully and fibre damage little, the part of impurity is removed and is alleviated the road, back and wash suede and the pressure that divides comb; Select for use neutral lotion and low temperature to wash suede, lower temperature oven dry all lack fibre damage and felting, obtains cleaning and loose clean suede helps branch to comb, and fiber strength and extension at break have just obtained effective protection washing suede first procedure;
3, the present invention is in minute comb step; Two groups of working rolls and epilation roller are set on carding machine; Two dirt catchers and two carding machines are set, have increased the shredding effect carding capacity is improved, thereby when improving each item index, improved the environmental aspect in workshop greatly; The temperature in workshop, humidity, pure and fresh degree not only can improve fibre property, improve the quality of products, and also are the measures that guarantees that the producer is healthy;
4, the present invention is in staining procedure; Add the wool protective agent, because fiber through the high temperature long time treatment, receives the effect of dye liquor effect and chemical reagent more than light color; Coarse, flexibility decrease that handle of fibre becomes; Powerful decline for reducing the damage of cashmere in dyeing course, adds an amount of wool protective agent;
5, the present invention removes the short flannel below the 15mm in the carding step, makes fiber short more; The chance of exposing yarn and surface fiber of the fabric end is also just many more; In addition, frictional force between the staple fibre and cohesive force are much also little relatively, and fiber is easy to generate slippage in the yarn; Balling-up is tangled in the end that makes fiber expose fabric face, and the removal of short flannel has improved the anti-pilling of ready-made clothes significantly.
The specific embodiment
This specific embodiment only is to explanation of the present invention; It is not a limitation of the present invention; Those skilled in the art can make the modification that does not have creative contribution to present embodiment as required after reading this specification, but as long as in claim scope of the present invention, all receive the protection of Patent Law.
Embodiment 1:
1, select materials: it is raw material that the medium fineness of preferred 15.0um is divided the comb goat cashmere.
2, wash suede: adopt three roads to relax shredding before washing, former suede bulk is decomposed during one shredding, during two road shreddings in the former suede part grass bits, silt remove, emphasis is removed the part skin skin in the former suede during three road shreddings; Three roads relax shredding make former suede loosen fully and fibre damage little, the part of impurity is removed and is alleviated the road, back and wash suede and the pressure that divides comb.Select for use neutral lotion and low temperature to wash suede, the lower temperature oven dry
3, branch comb: increase junk dust arrester on two groups of working rolls and the epilation roller tradition carding technology is being set on the carding machine, and increasing the twice carding machine is 130 ° with carding machine taker-in clothing angle adjustment.
4, dyeing: select for use reactive dye for wool to the cashmere processing of dyeing, the auxiliary agent of use is: glauber salt, ammonium sulfate, levelling agent, bleeding agent.
Dyeing recipe:
Dyestuff (o.w.f) x%
Glauber salt 5%
Ammonium sulfate 3%
Levelling agent 2%
Bleeding agent 1%
Wool protective agent 1.6%
pH 5~5.5
Bath raio 1: 16
Bake out temperature is 45 ℃, and the time is 8min
5 and hair: adopt Britain AMB3 S type hair shutting machine.Horizontal shop gets into the nutriment storehouse through automatic oiling water after erecting and getting the secondary mixing, and through 20 hours nutriment, it was subsequent use to squeeze into wool bin.Through the test of different process comparison of project and crude oil water ratio by original 1: (3~3.5) change 1 into: (4.5~5.5), refueling water speed changes 20~25 minutes/100Kg into by 10~15 minutes original/100Kg.
6, carding: adopt Britain TATHAM 15507 type combing machine for furs.Mainly between 30~35mm, different process has different requirement to fibre length to the average length of cashmere fibres, and this project is in raw material, to get rid of the unfavorable factor that influences the cashmere sweater wearability, thereby improves the wearability of yarn quality and ready-made clothes.In the carding process, through regulating modes such as carding isolation distance the short flannel below the 15mm is removed, take out fiber thin and short in the raw material; And thoroughly remove impurity, improve the regularity and the purity of raw material, usually; Fiber is short more, and the chance of exposing yarn and surface fiber of the fabric end is also just many more, in addition; Frictional force between the staple fibre and cohesive force are much also little relatively; Fiber is easy to generate slippage in the yarn, and balling-up is tangled in the end that makes fiber expose fabric face, and the removal of short flannel has improved the anti-pilling of ready-made clothes significantly.
For the slubbing system, short because of work flow, the machine bar directly arrives the spun yarn spinning under the combing machine for fur, fiber alignment and fleece situation in the combing machine for fur sliver, and dried very big with brute force and percentage elongation influence to the bar of yarn, the technical study of combing machine for fur is particularly important.Through the test of different process comparison of project, adopt projecting apparatus to observe the various morphological Study methods of fiber alignment in the yarn, come preferred carding and spinning process, the combing machine for fur shaping weighs/5 meters of 0.25 grams; Carding shaping speed changes 15 meters/minute into by 17 meters/minute.Recording the dried CV% value of rove bar is 11%~13%.
7, spun yarn: adopt the upright ingot of Britain TATHAM REIVIN type to walk the frame spinning machine; It is the best spinning system of production slubbing cashmere yarn that upright ingot is walked the frame spinning; Upright ingot is walked the frame spinning machine and is organically combined electronic technology, spinning process and mechanical technique, walks relevant technical parameters such as frame, feeding roller, rove unwinding cylinder with spindle, feeding, directly acts on the control panel of machine; Accurate and very accurate, accurately hold the spinning overall process.Adopt projecting apparatus to observe the various morphological Study methods of fiber alignment in the yarn, come preferred spinning process.
The twist of goat cashmere yarn is the main technique condition that influences cashmere sweater style and wearability, the conventional scope of application of traditional stocking yarn twist factor, and the single twist multiplier in the double strand yarn is 70~80%; Because too high single twist can influence the feel of cashmere sweater, surpass this scope and be regarded as the forbidden zone, the new product of two project trial-productions has been broken this forbidden zone; Under the prerequisite that keeps the cashmere fiber feel,, surmounted this normal ranges through research of technique and innovation; Adopt high single twist multiplier; Scope is 92~98%, obtaining the cohesive force that the optimised process effect has strengthened yarn, has improved brute force and elasticity; Make the elongation at break and the rebound degree of cashmere yarn reach desirable level, thereby improve wearability such as carded cashmere sweater DIMENSIONAL STABILITY and balling-up.
Can know from statistics, the spun yarn slubbing details that the dried tester of bar is tested, the details number is obviously greater than the slubbing number usually, and details is caused by unexpected stretching oneself and yawn in the spinning process mostly.
Spin number: Nm24.1/1 in fact; Spin weight 1.48~1.52g/30m, always stretch oneself and yawn 1.18~1.22 times, twist 460T/m, Z to; Utilize the dried tester test of YG136M bar contrast, preferred spinning process parameter.Make the spun yarn bar do the CV% value and reached 11%~12.5% better level.The single thread elongation at break brings up to 22%~28% by original 17~21%.
8, winder: adopt automatic winder (Italian SAVIO ESPERO), automatic winder adopts the condenser type yarn clearer to remove the yarn defect, adopts air splicing, and it is better more stable to tie a knot.Speed of a motor vehicle 500m/min, electronic clearing scope: N5.2, DS1.9, LS2.0, DL1.3, LL30 ,~D30 ,~L35.
9, doubling: adopt doubling frame AES, and close 2, speed of a motor vehicle 300m/min, tension piece: 1.
10, double twisting: adopt (Italian SAVIO GEMINIS) type two-for-one twister, speed of a motor vehicle 6000r/m, twists with the fingers to be S to, thigh yarn CV% value 8% ± 0.5% twist 230T/m.Two yarn elongation at breaks bring up to 20%~25% by original 15~18%.
The yarn quality index

Claims (9)

1. cashmere yarn with high tensile stretch production technology, it comprises: wash suede, divide comb, dyeing and hair, carding, spun yarn, winder, doubling, double twisting step, it is characterized in that: in washing the suede step, adopt 40 ℃~50 ℃ low temperature drying; In minute comb step, it is 130 °~150 ° with carding machine taker-in clothing angle adjustment; In staining procedure, adopt 40 ℃~50 ℃ low temperature drying; In the spun yarn step, single twist multiplier is 90%~98%.
2. cashmere yarn with high tensile stretch production technology according to claim 1; It is characterized in that: in washing the suede step, adopt three roads to relax shredding, decompose the former suede of bulk during one shredding; Remove part grass bits, silt in the former suede during two road shreddings, remove the part skin skin in the former suede during three road shreddings.
3. cashmere yarn with high tensile stretch production technology according to claim 1 is characterized in that: in minute comb step, two groups of working rolls and epilation roller are set on carding machine.
4. cashmere yarn with high tensile stretch production technology according to claim 1 is characterized in that: in minute comb step, two dirt catchers and two carding machines are set.
5. cashmere yarn with high tensile stretch production technology according to claim 1 is characterized in that: in staining procedure, add the wool protective agent.
6. cashmere yarn with high tensile stretch production technology according to claim 1 is characterized in that: in the carding step, the short flannel below the 15mm is removed.
7. cashmere yarn with high tensile stretch production technology according to claim 1 is characterized in that: in the spun yarn step, single twist is 460 sth. made by twisting/m~520 sth. made by twisting/m.
8. cashmere yarn with high tensile stretch production technology according to claim 1 is characterized in that: in the double twisting step, two twist per units are 210 sth. made by twisting/m~250 sth. made by twisting/m.
9. cashmere yarn with high tensile stretch production technology according to claim 1, the cashmere yarn with high tensile stretch that makes.
CN2009100996469A 2009-06-06 2009-06-06 Cashmere yarn with high tensile stretch and production technology thereof Active CN101586278B (en)

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CN101586278B true CN101586278B (en) 2012-03-28

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Families Citing this family (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN103305993B (en) * 2013-06-24 2016-08-31 中原工学院 Semi-worsted bamboo charcoal polyester fiber blending health-care yarn
CN103526373A (en) * 2013-10-17 2014-01-22 江苏联宏纺织有限公司 Method for solving fluffing and pilling problems of cashmere
CN104451994A (en) * 2014-09-25 2015-03-25 山东德信羊绒科技有限公司 Spinning and roving production technology and production line thereof
CN104372476A (en) * 2014-12-09 2015-02-25 河北浩丽羊绒科技有限公司 Long cashmere yarn manufacture method
CN106012143A (en) * 2016-08-03 2016-10-12 新疆天山纺织服装有限公司 Cashmere imitated tape yarn and production technology thereof
CN108085809A (en) * 2018-02-05 2018-05-29 康赛妮集团有限公司 A kind of machine washable cashmere fiber product method for weaving
CN108085817A (en) * 2018-02-05 2018-05-29 康赛妮集团有限公司 A kind of method for weaving of bumps cashmere fiber

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