CN110846761B - Luoma-cong-wool-spun silk blended wool yarn and preparation method thereof - Google Patents

Luoma-cong-wool-spun silk blended wool yarn and preparation method thereof Download PDF

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CN110846761B
CN110846761B CN201911133154.7A CN201911133154A CN110846761B CN 110846761 B CN110846761 B CN 110846761B CN 201911133154 A CN201911133154 A CN 201911133154A CN 110846761 B CN110846761 B CN 110846761B
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yarn
controlled
blended
wool
fiber
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CN110846761A (en
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李瑞峰
贺春生
秦保新
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Consinee Group Co ltd
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Consinee Group Co ltd
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/02Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
    • D02G3/04Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
    • D02G3/042Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials all components being made from natural material
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01GPRELIMINARY TREATMENT OF FIBRES, e.g. FOR SPINNING
    • D01G13/00Mixing, e.g. blending, fibres; Mixing non-fibrous materials with fibres
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01GPRELIMINARY TREATMENT OF FIBRES, e.g. FOR SPINNING
    • D01G15/00Carding machines or accessories; Card clothing; Burr-crushing or removing arrangements associated with carding or other preliminary-treatment machines
    • D01G15/02Carding machines
    • D01G15/04Carding machines with worker and stripper or like rollers operating in association with a main cylinder
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01GPRELIMINARY TREATMENT OF FIBRES, e.g. FOR SPINNING
    • D01G21/00Combinations of machines, apparatus, or processes, e.g. for continuous processing
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/34Yarns or threads having slubs, knops, spirals, loops, tufts, or other irregular or decorative effects, i.e. effect yarns
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06BTREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B3/00Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating
    • D06B3/04Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating of yarns, threads or filaments
    • D06B3/06Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating of yarns, threads or filaments individually handled
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06CFINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C11/00Teasing, napping or otherwise roughening or raising pile of textile fabrics
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • D10B2211/02Wool
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • D10B2211/04Silk

Abstract

The invention discloses a preparation method of luoma villi, cashmere and spun silk blended napped yarn, relates to the technical field of spinning, and prepares the blended napped yarn through 10 main steps. Compared with the prior art, the preparation method of the luoma villi, cashmere and spun silk blended napped yarn provided by the invention has the advantages that the luoma villi and spun silk blended napped yarn integrates the advantages of the luoma villi, the luoma villi and the wool, the characteristics of softness and lightness of the luoma villi, softness and smoothness of the spun silk and stiff and smooth wool of the luoma villi are fully embodied, and the touch feeling and the look feeling of the fabric woven by the blended yarn are better superior to those of the cashmere.

Description

Luoma-cong-wool-spun silk blended wool yarn and preparation method thereof
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of spinning, in particular to a technology for blending luoma mansion hair.
Background
Luoma hair is the top fiber in the world and has the name of fiber in the spirit of Fibre of the Gods. Vicuna has a wild population in south america and indian mountainous areas, and is more prevalent in both peru and borivia. The camel horse lives in a severe cold alpine zone with an altitude of 13000-19000 feet, only about 160000 hairs exist all over the world, and one camel horse can only produce about 250 grams of hairs every two years. The camel hair is light, soft and smooth, and has better visual and tactile properties than wool fibers. The use of the luoma is less at home and abroad, the luoma is more in use in other countries except peru and italy, and the luoma is less in use in domestic enterprises. Vicuna hair is also less well known than alpaca hair, but vicuna hair is the finest and rarest natural fiber in the world. Luoma villi are silky, soft, extremely durable, soft in hand feeling, high in elasticity, good in ductility, good in gloss, and incomprehensible light and soft in touch feeling, and are completely like a cloud with temperature, so that the luoma villi product is luxurious and dreamlike, and the luoma villi product is superior to wool in touch feeling by matching with a perfect process of a twisting machine and the smoothness and the softness of spun silk. Luoma villus spun silk mixes advantage of spinning luoma yarn aggregation spun silk, luoma villus and wool, fully embodies the soft and graceful of luoma villus, the gentle glutinous smooth of spun silk, the stiff and smooth body bone of wool to its gold quality that can compare wool goods, will step up on the array line of fancy yarn higher end. But for the production of luoma's down, spun silk and with the mohair blending product, there is a certain degree of difficulty and restriction in traditional spinning.
Disclosure of Invention
Aiming at the defects in the prior art, the invention provides the preparation method of the luoma villi, wool and spun silk blended napped yarn, the luoma villi spun silk blended napped yarn integrates the advantages of the spun silk, the luoma villi and the wool, the characteristics of softness and lightness of the luoma villi, softness and glutinous smoothness of the spun silk and stiff and smooth wool are fully embodied, and the touch feeling and the look of the fabric woven by the blended yarn are better than those of the wool.
In order to solve the technical problem, the invention is solved by the following technical scheme: a preparation method of a luoma villi, wool and spun silk blended napped yarn is characterized by further comprising the following steps: step A: according to the mass percentage, 40% -60% of luoma villi fiber and 60% -40% of bayonan wool fiber are mixed to form blended fiber, wherein the average fineness of the luoma villi fiber is 12-13 mu m, the crimp length is 22-53 mm, the average fineness of the bayonan wool fiber is 20-24 mu m, and the average length is 75-85 mm; and B: mixing the blended fibers, adding the blending agent during mixing for at least 8 hours, and controlling the separation distance of the mixed fibers between 50mm and 55mm to avoid the friction between the fibers; and C: carrying out needle combing on the blended fiber, wherein the raising type feeding is used in the needle combing operation process, so that the friction between the slivers is avoided; step D: performing compound combing on the blended fibers, wherein the gauge distance is 25-28 mm during compound combing, so that the blended fibers are parallel and straight; step E: performing secondary needle combing on the blended fiber, wherein the yarn evenness of the two needles is controlled to be below 2.8 percent, the yarn unevenness rate is controlled to be below 0.8 percent, the yarn evenness rate of the four needles is controlled to be below 3.5 percent, and the yarn unevenness rate is controlled to be below 1.0 percent during secondary needle combing; step F: performing rough spinning on the blended fiber to obtain blended roving, wherein the yarn evenness requirement of the blended roving is controlled to be below 6.0%, and the yarn unevenness rate is controlled to be below 1.1%; step G: spun silk is used as a core wire and a fixed wire through a fancy twisting machine, the blended roving is used as a decorative wire to be made into a napped yarn with the yarn count of 4.5 Nm-25 Nm, the inner twist number of 700 twist/m-800 twist/m, the twist direction 'Z', the outer twist number of 400 twist/m-450 twist/m, the twist direction 'S', the overfeed ratio of 2.2-2.8 and the drafting multiple of 30-40; step H: napping the napped yarns, wherein the speed ratio is 6-8 during napping, the vehicle speed is controlled to be 60-100 m/min, the number of napping tracks is at least 8, and the gauge is 25 mm; step I: steaming the napped yarn, putting the napped yarn into a double-circulation yarn steaming box, heating the double-circulation yarn steaming box to 80 ℃, keeping the temperature of the double-circulation yarn steaming box at 80 ℃ for at least 30 minutes, and then cooling, wherein the step J: and (3) rewinding the napped yarns at a rewinding speed of 250-350 m/min.
In the technical scheme, in the step B, the wool agent comprises wool oil which is not more than 1.0 percent in percentage by mass of the blended fiber.
In the above technical scheme, in the step a, 50% of vicuna fiber and 50% of bayonlan wool fiber are selected and mixed to form the blend fiber by mass percentage.
In the technical scheme, the addition amount of the wool agent is controlled to be less than 1.0 percent and the moisture regain is controlled to be between 16 and 18 percent in step B in terms of the mass percentage of the blended fiber, and the addition amount of the wool agent is controlled to be less than 0.5 percent after the compound combing in step D.
In the technical scheme, in the step F, the gram weight of the yarn is controlled to be between 0.5 and 0.6 g/m, and the twist is controlled to be between 36 and 40 twists/m.
In the above technical solution, in the step G, the spun silk gauge is 120 Nm.
In the above technical scheme, in the step G, the yarn count of the napped yarn is 16 Nm.
The vicuna villus and common spun silk wool spinning blending difficulty is great, and the production process silk grain is difficult to control, chooses for use 120Nm spun silk to be used for heart yearn and solidus, and vicuna villus roving is the ornamental yarn, carries out fancy blending, full play vicuna villus product characteristics and the good quality of spun silk. The specific process flow is as follows: dyeing wool tops, mixing the wool tops, gilling (2-3), combing again, gilling (3-4), roving, twisting, napping, steaming yarn and rewinding.
The luoma and spun silk blended product is prepared by mixing 22.5um lubrian wool and luoma and 50/50 according to the difference of fiber fineness, and spinning loops or napped yarns with the core thread of 120Nm by combining the core thread and the spun silk with the length of 4.5 Nm. The vicuna wool has fine fineness, and the friction between wool strips is easy to be disorderly hung in the operation process of mixing the vicuna wool with wool, so that wool particle and wool pieces are easy to appear in subsequent production, and therefore the vicuna wool needs to be subjected to complex combing. The distance control of each process of pre-spinning is based on the length of the luoma villus and the length of the wool fiber, the distance of each process is not too large, the distance is controlled to be smaller than the wool according to the conditions of different devices, and the complex combing distance is controlled to be the minimum, so that the loss of the luoma villus is avoided as much as possible. For the oil-water adding amount, the oil adding before the re-combing is controlled below 1.0 percent, the moisture regain is controlled between 16 percent and 18 percent, the fiber damage is avoided as much as possible, the pilling of the finished product is reduced to the maximum extent, and the oil-water adding after the re-combing is controlled below 0.5 percent so as to be operated smoothly. The friction between the slivers is required to be reduced or avoided as much as possible in the mixing process of the mixed slivers, the mixture is tightly placed for more than 8 hours after oiling, oil and water are ensured to be uniformly infiltrated, the spacing is not required to be overlarge, the spacing of the domestic mixed slivers is controlled to be 50-55, and the number of needle plates is easily 4-5. For the lap of the hair return, the lap strips take a small amount of continuity as a criterion, and the joints mainly take lap. After the wool and the luoma villus are mixed in the combed front comb, the luoma villus is short and thin, and after the luoma villus is rubbed with the wool, the luoma villus is easily hung in disorder, so that the fiber is hooked to form wool particles or combed short hair, so that in the operation process of the comb, the friction between the sliver and the sliver needs to be avoided as much as possible, and the picking type feeding is used as much as possible. Meanwhile, in the complex combing process, the minimum distance, the light weight and the heavy weight are taken as references, the loss of the luoma villi is reduced, and the fibers are parallel and straight. The wool and the luoma wool strips in the gill after the compound combing are completely and uniformly mixed, the sliver is gradually thinned, the yarn evenness and the sliver weight unevenness need to be strictly controlled, and the two-needle control index is as follows: the Uster evenness requirement is below 2.8%, the strip weight unevenness rate is below 0.8%, the four-needle control index is that the Uster evenness requirement is below 3.5%, and the strip weight unevenness rate is below 1.0%.
The conventional wool spinning route is adopted in the production of the rough yarn, the rough yarn of the luoma manshu fancy yarn is manufactured, and the running state of yarn evenness and the production process after the complex combing is technically and critically controlled. The key point of the roving is to control feeding tension and yarn discharging tension, the BF roving tension is preferably slightly controlled, the Uster evenness of the roving is required to be controlled below 6.0%, and the unevenness of the yarn weight is controlled below 1.1%.
The twist number of the flower is based on the principle of slightly warm and soft glutinous with bones, the twist number of the inner twist is determined between 700 and 800 (twist/m), the twist number of the outer twist is determined between 400 and 450 (twist/m), the bone twisting and elasticity are ensured to be avoided, and the advantages of all components are exerted to the maximum extent. The flower twisting overfeeding is to ensure the finished product to be napped and fluffy, the soft touch of luoma villi is fully reflected, the smoothness of spun silk and the stiffness and smoothness of wool are reflected, and the overfeeding is controlled to be about 2.5. In the drafting of each working procedure of the twisting, the front spinning drafting mainly ensures the evenness of the yarn, the drafting is between 6 and 8 by matching with the production requirement of equipment, and the roving drafting is controlled within the range of 8 to 10. The twisting draft is controlled between 25 and 35, and the optimal running state and uniform yarn evenness of the equipment are ensured. Flower twisting equipment is adopted during fancy compounding, and the fancy twisting equipment is compounded with spun silk, so that the defects of traditional blending of the luoma villus and the spun silk are reduced, and the softness, warmth retention, smoothness and softness of the luoma villus and the softness and softness of spun silk products are integrally exerted. In the production process, the indexes of looping, twist, overfeeding and the like need to be controlled in a unified way. In the production process, the control of the internal twist is very critical, the style of finished yarn is directly influenced, the higher the internal twist degree is, the denser the looping is, the advantages of the vicuna villi are fully embodied, the silk presents the concealed internal style, the smaller the internal twist is, the bigger the looping is, and the smooth and glutinous style of the silk can be highlighted. In addition, the determination of the twisted yarn count is also related to the determination of the product style.
During napping, the napping gauge and the napping degree are determined according to the yarn count, the loop is required to be just broken, good fiber fixation is ensured, and the pile surface on the fabric is full, soft and unbreakable. Yarn breakage is easy to occur due to over-large napping, the speed ratio is not suitable to be over-large, soft napping is achieved, damage to fibers and pilling are benefited, the speed ratio is determined to be 6-8, tension control is preferably small, the vehicle speed is controlled to be 80m/min, the number of napping tracks is 10, and the gauge length is 25. And (3) during yarn steaming and rewinding, performing double-circulation yarn steaming and sizing at 80 ℃ for 30 minutes, and rewinding at a low speed, wherein the speed is controlled below 300 m/min.
The invention provides a preparation method of a vicuna villus, wool and spun silk blended wool yarn, which is characterized in that the vicuna villus and spun silk blended wool yarn integrates the advantages of the vicuna villus, the vicuna villus and the wool, the characteristics of softness and lightness of the vicuna villus, softness and smoothness of the spun silk and stiff and smooth of the wool are fully embodied, and the touch feeling and the impression of a fabric woven by the blended yarn are better superior to those of the wool.
Detailed Description
Example 1: a preparation method of a luoma villi, wool and spun silk blended napped yarn comprises the following steps: step A: according to the mass percentage, 40% of vicuna fiber and 60% of scotch wool fiber are mixed to form blended fiber, wherein the average fineness of the vicuna fiber is 12 mu m, the crimp length is 22 mm, the average fineness of the scotch wool fiber is 20 mu m, and the average length is 75 mm. And B: mixing the blended fibers, adding the blending agent during mixing, tightly releasing for at least 8 hours, and controlling the separation distance of the mixed fibers to be 50mm to avoid friction among the fibers; the addition amount of the wool blending agent is controlled below 1.0 percent and the moisture regain is controlled between 16 and 18 percent in percentage by mass of the blended fiber.
And C: carrying out needle combing on the blended fiber, wherein the raising type feeding is used in the needle combing operation process, so that the friction between the slivers is avoided; step D: carrying out compound combing on the blended fibers, wherein the gauge length is 25mm during compound combing, so that the blended fibers are parallel and straight; step E: performing secondary needle combing on the blended fiber, wherein the yarn evenness of the two needles is controlled to be below 2.8 percent, the yarn unevenness rate is controlled to be below 0.8 percent, the yarn evenness rate of the four needles is controlled to be below 3.5 percent, and the yarn unevenness rate is controlled to be below 1.0 percent during secondary needle combing; step F: performing rough spinning on the blended fiber to obtain blended roving, wherein the yarn evenness requirement of the blended roving is controlled to be below 6.0%, and the yarn unevenness rate is controlled to be below 1.1%; in step D, the addition amount of the additional fearnaught after the combing is controlled to be less than 0.5%. In step F, the gram weight of the yarn is controlled to be 0.5 g/m, and the twist is controlled to be 36 twists/m.
Step G: spun silk is used as core yarn and fixed yarn by a fancy twisting machine, the blended roving is used as decorative yarn to prepare drawn yarn with yarn count of 4.5Nm, internal twist number of 700 twist/m, twist direction 'Z', external twist number of 400 twist/m, twist direction 'S', overfeed ratio of 2.2 and draft multiple controlled at 30; in step G, the spun silk gauge is 120 Nm. Step H: napping the napped yarn, wherein the speed ratio is 6 during napping, the vehicle speed is controlled at 60m/min, the number of napping tracks is at least 8, and the gauge is 25 mm; step I: steaming the napped yarn, putting the napped yarn into a double-circulation yarn steaming box, heating the double-circulation yarn steaming box to 80 ℃, keeping the temperature of the double-circulation yarn steaming box at 80 ℃ for at least 30 minutes, and then cooling, wherein the step J: and (4) rewinding the napped yarns at a rewinding speed of 250 m/min. The blended drawn yarn is obtained through the steps.
Example 2: a preparation method of a luoma villi, wool and spun silk blended napped yarn comprises the following steps: step A: according to the mass percentage, 60% of vicuna fiber and 40% of scotch wool fiber are mixed to form the blended fiber, wherein the average fineness of the vicuna fiber is 13 mu m, the crimp length is 53mm, the average fineness of the scotch wool fiber is 24um, and the average length is 85 mm. And B: mixing the blended fibers, adding the blending agent during mixing, tightly releasing for at least 8 hours, and controlling the separation distance of the mixed fibers to be 55mm to avoid friction among the fibers; the addition amount of the wool blending agent is controlled below 1.0 percent and the moisture regain is controlled between 16 and 18 percent in percentage by mass of the blended fiber.
And C: carrying out needle combing on the blended fiber, wherein the raising type feeding is used in the needle combing operation process, so that the friction between the slivers is avoided; step D: carrying out compound combing on the blended fibers, wherein the gauge length is 28mm during compound combing, so that the blended fibers are parallel and straight; step E: performing secondary needle combing on the blended fiber, wherein the yarn evenness of the two needles is controlled to be below 2.8 percent, the yarn unevenness rate is controlled to be below 0.8 percent, the yarn evenness rate of the four needles is controlled to be below 3.5 percent, and the yarn unevenness rate is controlled to be below 1.0 percent during secondary needle combing; step F: performing rough spinning on the blended fiber to obtain blended roving, wherein the yarn evenness requirement of the blended roving is controlled to be below 6.0%, and the yarn unevenness rate is controlled to be below 1.1%; in step D, the addition amount of the additional fearnaught after the combing is controlled to be less than 0.5%. In step F, the gram weight of the yarn is controlled to be 0.6 g/m, and the twist is controlled to be 40 twists/m.
Step G: spun silk is used as a core wire and a fixed wire through a fancy twisting machine, the blended roving is used as a decorative wire to prepare the napped yarn with the yarn count of 25Nm, the internal twist number of 800 twists/m and the twist direction 'Z', the external twist number of 450 twists/m and the twist direction 'S', the overfeed ratio of 2.8 and the draft multiple controlled between 40. Step H: napping the napped yarns, wherein the speed ratio is 8 during napping, the vehicle speed is controlled at 100m/min, the number of napping tracks is at least 8, and the gauge is 25 mm; step I: steaming the napped yarn, putting the napped yarn into a double-circulation yarn steaming box, heating the double-circulation yarn steaming box to 80 ℃, keeping the temperature of the double-circulation yarn steaming box at 80 ℃ for at least 30 minutes, and then cooling, wherein the step J: and (4) rewinding the napped yarns at a rewinding speed of 350 m/min. The blended drawn yarn is obtained through the steps.
Example 3: a preparation method of a luoma villi, wool and spun silk blended napped yarn comprises the following steps: step A: according to the mass percentage, 50% of vicuna wool fiber and 50% of bayonan wool fiber are mixed to form the blended fiber. Wherein the average fineness of the luoma villi fiber is 12.5 mu m, the crimp length is 36mm, the average fineness of the Palman wool fiber is between um, and the average length is 80 mm; and B: mixing the blended fibers, adding the blending agent during mixing for at least 8 hours, and controlling the separation distance of the mixed fibers between 50mm and 55mm to avoid the friction between the fibers; the addition amount of the wool blending agent is controlled below 1.0 percent and the moisture regain is controlled between 16 and 18 percent in percentage by mass of the blended fiber.
And C: carrying out needle combing on the blended fiber, wherein the raising type feeding is used in the needle combing operation process, so that the friction between the slivers is avoided; step D: performing compound combing on the blended fibers, wherein the gauge distance is 25-28 mm during compound combing, so that the blended fibers are parallel and straight; step E: performing secondary needle combing on the blended fiber, wherein the yarn evenness of the two needles is controlled to be below 2.8 percent, the yarn unevenness rate is controlled to be below 0.8 percent, the yarn evenness rate of the four needles is controlled to be below 3.5 percent, and the yarn unevenness rate is controlled to be below 1.0 percent during secondary needle combing; step F: performing rough spinning on the blended fiber to obtain blended roving, wherein the yarn evenness requirement of the blended roving is controlled to be below 6.0%, and the yarn unevenness rate is controlled to be below 1.1%; in step D, the addition amount of the additional fearnaught after the combing is controlled to be less than 0.5%. In step F, the gram weight of the yarn is controlled to be 0.55g/m, and the twist is controlled to be 38 twists/m.
Step G: spun silk is used as a core wire and a fixed wire by an fancy twisting machine, the blended roving is used as a decorative wire to prepare a napped yarn with the yarn count of 16Nm, the inner twist number of 750 twists/m and the twist direction 'Z', the outer twist number of 425 twists/m and the twist direction 'S', the overfeed ratio of 2.5 and the draft multiple of 38; spun silk gauge is 120 Nm. Step H: napping the napped yarn, wherein the speed ratio is 7 during napping, the vehicle speed is controlled at 80m/min, the number of napping tracks is at least 8, and the gauge is 25 mm. Step I: steaming the napped yarn, putting the napped yarn into a double-circulation yarn steaming box, heating the double-circulation yarn steaming box to 80 ℃, keeping the temperature of the double-circulation yarn steaming box at 80 ℃ for at least 30 minutes, and then cooling, wherein the step J: and (4) rewinding the napped yarn at a rewinding speed of 300 m/min. The blended drawn yarn is obtained through the steps.

Claims (1)

1. A preparation method of a luoma villi, wool and spun silk blended napped yarn is characterized by further comprising the following steps:
step A: according to the mass percentage, 50% of vicuna fiber and 50% of bayonan wool fiber are mixed to form blended fiber, wherein the average fineness of the vicuna fiber is 12-13 μm, the crimp length is 22-53 mm, the average fineness of the bayonan wool fiber is 20-24 um, and the average length is 75-85 mm;
and B: mixing the blended fibers, wherein a blending agent is added during mixing for at least 8 hours, the separation distance of the mixed fibers is controlled between 50mm and 55mm to avoid the friction between the fibers, the blending agent comprises wool oil which is not more than 1.0 percent in percentage by mass of the blended fibers, the addition amount of the blending agent is controlled below 1.0 percent, and the moisture regain is controlled between 16 and 18 percent;
and C: carrying out needle combing on the blended fiber, wherein the raising type feeding is used in the needle combing operation process, so that the friction between the slivers is avoided;
step D: carrying out compound combing on the blended fibers, wherein the gauge length is 25-28 mm during compound combing, so that the blended fibers are parallel and straight, and adding a wool blending agent after compound combing, wherein the adding amount is controlled to be below 0.5%;
step E: performing secondary needle combing on the blended fiber, wherein the yarn evenness of the two needles is controlled to be below 2.8 percent, the yarn unevenness rate is controlled to be below 0.8 percent, the yarn evenness rate of the four needles is controlled to be below 3.5 percent, and the yarn unevenness rate is controlled to be below 1.0 percent during secondary needle combing;
step F: the blended roving is obtained by carrying out roving on the blended fiber, the yarn evenness of the blended roving is controlled to be below 6.0%, the yarn unevenness is controlled to be below 1.1%, the gram weight of the yarn is controlled to be between 0.5 and 0.6 g/m, and the twist is controlled to be between 36 and 40 twists/m;
step G: spun silk is used as a core wire and a fixed wire through a fancy twisting machine, the specification of the spun silk is 120Nm, the blended roving is used as a decorative wire to prepare a napped yarn with the yarn count of 4.5 Nm-25 Nm, the internal twist number of 700 twist/m-800 twist/m and the twist direction of Z, the external twist number of 400 twist/m-450 twist/m and the twist direction of S, the overfeed ratio of 2.2-2.8, the draft multiple of 30-40 and the yarn count of the napped yarn of 16 Nm;
step H: napping the napped yarns, wherein the speed ratio is 6-8 during napping, the vehicle speed is controlled to be 60-100 m/min, the number of napping tracks is at least 8, and the gauge is 25 mm;
step I: steaming the napped yarn, putting the napped yarn into a double-circulation yarn steaming box, heating the double-circulation yarn steaming box to 80 ℃, keeping the temperature of the double-circulation yarn steaming box at 80 ℃ for at least 30 minutes, and then cooling;
step J: and (3) rewinding the napped yarns at a rewinding speed of 250-350 m/min.
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