CN112981643B - Preparation method of high-count composite yarn - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention provides a preparation method of high count composite yarn, relating to the technical field of textile, comprising wool top dyeing → mixed bar → needle comb → roving → one-time flower twisting → napping → second-time flower twisting → inverted tube → finished product packaging, and the specific steps are as follows: providing 1# cashmere fiber and 2# cashmere fiber, and respectively preparing 1# roving and 2# roving through the steps of top dyeing → sliver mixing → gilling → roving; two spun silks are used as core wires, the 1# roving is used as a decorative wire, and a napped yarn is prepared through a one-time twisting step; after the napping treatment is carried out on the napped yarn, the napped yarn is used as a core yarn, the No. 2 roving is used as a non-overfeeding decorative yarn, the PVA filament is used as a fixed yarn, and secondary twisting is carried out to prepare a covered yarn; and rewinding the coated yarn to obtain the high-count composite yarn. According to the preparation method provided by the invention, the components of the twisting machine are improved, and spun silk and cashmere are combined to prepare the composite yarn with the count of more than 100 by using a mode of combining the napping yarn and the covering yarn.

Description

Preparation method of high-count composite yarn

Technical Field

The invention belongs to the technical field of spinning, and particularly relates to a preparation method of high-count composite yarn.

Background

The textile industry, which is originally a traditional industry with a long history, has experienced continuous innovation and improvement for many years, and the challenges facing these days are very difficult. The textile industry has experienced large shuffling for a whole year in 2019, and the global spread of new coronavirus in the early 2020 causes all textile people worldwide to tighten nerves, so that the textile industry at home and abroad experiences 'big economic delight'. China is the textile and clothing producing country, the consumer country and the export country with the largest scale in the world, is the country with the most complete textile industry chain and the most complete door types, and has a solid foundation and obvious advantages for advancing the strong country formation of world textile. With the development of science and technology and the coming of the internet + era, a new pattern is developed in the future of the textile industry.

Spun silk is a well-known and luxurious natural protein fiber all over the world, mainly consists of two proteins of fibroin and sericin, belongs to a high-grade textile raw material, has higher strength and elongation, is fine, soft, smooth and elastic, has good moisture absorption, glossy fabric, soft hand feeling and unique 'silk twill' feeling, is smooth and comfortable when being worn on the body, and is elegant and luxurious.

The cashmere fabric has the advantages of soft hand feeling, plump suede, good heat retention, strong hygroscopicity, comfortable wearing and the like, and is widely applied to various high-grade textile garment fabrics. The cashmere yarns widely used in the market at present mainly comprise thick cashmere yarns with Nm below 60. Cashmere products have been used as the preferred material for high-grade clothing because of their excellent hand feel and wearing comfort as well as good warmth retention properties. The cashmere fiber fineness is fine, so that the handfeel of cashmere products is fine, smooth, comfortable and non-itching, and the fibers of cashmere are generally short, so that the fiber ends of cashmere are easy to shed to form hairiness after the cashmere is formed, so that the cashmere products can form suede, and the handfeel is further improved. Currently, thinning is a future trend toward higher-end cashmere products. The quality of the yarn determines the grade of the garment material, in the spinning of the high-count wool yarn, the linear density and the length of the fiber are important factors influencing the quality of the yarn, the thickness of the fiber directly influences the number of the fibers in the yarn section, and the increase of the fiber length can improve the spinnability.

Therefore, the composite yarn prepared by blending the spun silk and the cashmere improves the spinnability, makes up for the defects of each other, and provides enough wearing experiences of warmth retention property, glossiness, skin-friendly feeling and the like for fabrics and clothes woven by the composite yarn, so that the development and production of the composite yarn of the spun silk and the cashmere are imperative. However, during the weaving of the composite yarn, the two fibers each have defects which restrict the development of the weaving process: the single fiber strength of the cashmere fiber is low, the length of the main body is short, and the development of yarns with high counts is difficult, so that the pure cashmere high count yarn fabric cannot effectively enable the fabric to develop towards the light and thin direction; the fine cashmere fibers are inevitably poor in strength, and the too short fiber length can also influence the cohesion degree of the fibers during yarn forming; spun silk fibers are easy to generate static electricity, and are easy to generate hair particles and winding phenomena in the carding process, so that the weaving difficulty is seriously increased, and the appearance quality of the fabric is also influenced. Therefore, how to choose between hand feeling, velvet feeling, strength and spinnability becomes a key problem to be overcome in the method for preparing the spun silk and cashmere composite yarn.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to provide a preparation method for preparing high-count composite yarns with counts of more than 100 by modifying the parts of a twisting machine and combining spun silk and cashmere by using a way of combining napped yarns and covering yarns, which can reduce the vinylon shrinkage rate and the deformation degree of the yarns, and ensure that the strength retention rate of finished yarns can reach more than 90%.

The technical scheme adopted by the invention for realizing the purpose is as follows:

a method of making a high count composite yarn comprising: dyeing wool top → mixing sliver → gilling → roving → first-time flower twisting → wool drawing → second-time flower twisting → rewinding → finished product packaging, the concrete steps are as follows:

providing 1# cashmere fibers and 2# cashmere fibers, and respectively carrying out wool top dyeing → sliver mixing → gilling → roving steps to prepare 1# roving and 2# roving;

using two spun silks as core yarns, using the 1# roving yarn as a decorative yarn, and performing a twisting step to prepare a napped yarn; the production count of the napping yarn is Nm35-Nm 38;

after the napping treatment is carried out on the napped yarn, the napped yarn is used as a core yarn, the No. 2 roving is used as a non-overfeeding decorative yarn, the PVA filament is used as a fixed yarn, and secondary twisting is carried out to prepare a covered yarn;

-rewinding said covered yarn to obtain said high count composite yarn; the number of the composite yarns is not less than 100.

The technical scheme aims at the problem of poor cohesive force of protein fibers such as spun silk and the like, the equipment parts of the twisting machine are modified, a mode of combining napped yarn and covering yarn is used, soluble PVA filament is added in the covering yarn process to enhance weaving strength, meanwhile, cashmere fibers with two different specifications are used, the purpose of preparing the high-count spun silk and cashmere composite yarn by combining the spun silk and the cashmere is achieved, the number of the spun silk and cashmere composite yarn can reach more than 100, high-count yarn with good velvet feeling, soft and fluffy hand feeling, high internal cohesion, high yarn strength is woven, the degree of vinylon shrinkage and deformation of the yarn is low, the strength retention rate of finished yarn can reach more than 90%, and the finished yarn has excellent quality and high spinnability.

In some embodiments, the spun silk in the composite yarn raw material has a count of Nm120, the 1# cashmere fiber has a count of 80S, and the 2# cashmere fiber has a count of 48S. Preferably, the length of the cashmere fiber in the raw material is 38-100mm, wherein the length of the 2# cashmere fiber is not less than 50 mm.

In some embodiments, the raw materials of the composite yarn include: the cashmere wool fabric comprises, by weight, 10-30 parts of 1# cashmere fiber, 10-40 parts of 2# cashmere fiber, 10-40 parts of spun silk and 10-50 parts of soluble PVA filament.

In some embodiments, in the step of the secondary twisting, the twisting machine is modified, and the process flow specifically comprises: a group of small rollers with threads are added before 2# roving enters a leather roller, a traversing device is added on the group of small rollers, a flat buncher is added before the roving passes through the leather roller, the situation that the roving is excessively dispersed to cause fiber scattering is avoided, the 2# roving is dispersed into a flat yarn layer, and the flat yarn layer is uniformly coated on the surface of the napped yarn without exposing bottom yarn.

In some embodiments, the above 1# and 2# cashmere fibers further include the following pretreatment steps before the top dyeing is performed: respectively adding a wool finishing agent into raw materials of the 1# cashmere fiber and the 2# cashmere fiber, then mixing in a wool finishing machine to obtain wool fibers, then sealing the wool fibers, and placing the wool fibers in a moisture regain room with the temperature of 50-70 ℃ and the relative humidity of 80-95% for not less than 24 hours to finally obtain the pretreated 1# cashmere fiber and the pretreated 2# cashmere fiber. Preferably, the standing time in the dampening room is 24-30h, so that the fiber can fully absorb the antistatic oil agent and the moisture.

Preferably, the wool finishing agent comprises the following raw materials in parts by weight: 0.2-0.8 part of antistatic agent, 0.3-1 part of wool oil, 0.1-0.5 part of organic silicone oil, 0.3-0.6 part of penetrating agent JFC and 8-10 parts of water; the weight ratio of the wool finishing agent to the 1# and 2# cashmere fibers is 1-2: 5. After pretreatment, the static electricity generated by friction and accumulated charges of the fiber and machine parts in the spinning process can be effectively reduced, the spinnability of the fiber is improved, preparation is made for the subsequent spinning production, and the yarn quality is ensured.

In some embodiments, the specific pre-spinning production steps of the above # 1 roving are as follows: carrying out wool top dyeing, strip mixing, first needle, second needle and third needle on the 1# cashmere fiber, and finally preparing 1# rough yarn with Nm4 through a roving machine; the specific pre-spinning production steps of the 2# roving are as follows: and (3) carrying out wool top dyeing, strip mixing, first needle, second needle, third needle and fourth needle on the 2# cashmere fiber, and finally preparing the 2# rough yarn with Nm4 by a roving machine. The gill adopts the technology of small drafting, small gauge, light weight and low speed, the carding process must ensure the reduction of fiber damage, the reduction of fiber deposition and mutual entanglement so as to realize the smooth carding and slivering of the fibers and solve the problems of easy generation of static electricity and easy breakage of yarns in the spinning process. The needle carding process needs to control the gauge according to the length of cashmere fibers, and the density of needles controlled by a machine is selected according to the strength of the cashmere fibers, so that the fiber damage condition is reduced as much as possible.

Preferably, in the pre-spinning production steps of the 1# and 2# roves, the on-machine moisture regain of the cashmere fiber is 17-25%, the workshop temperature is 19-26 ℃, the relative humidity is 65-80%, the gauge of the roving machine is 20-30mm, and the draft multiple is less than or equal to 8.5 times; the unevenness of the yarn levelness of the 1# roving is less than or equal to 3.5 percent. Preferably, the twist of the 1# roving is controlled to be 50-80T/m, and the twist of the 2# roving is controlled to be 30-60T/m.

In some embodiments, in the primary twisting step, the overfeed of the twisting machine is 1.6, the draft ratio is 26-28, and the vehicle speed is controlled to be not higher than 6000 r/s. Preferably, the inner twist is controlled to be 500-900T/m, and the outer twist is controlled to be 300-500T/m. In the step, under the condition of ensuring yarn count and evenness, the drafting and overfeeding are increased as much as possible, the loop is ensured to be large enough, and the speed of the whole machine is required to be paid attention to during production so as to maintain the long-term normal production of the yarn, and the yarn is easy to break when the speed is too fast.

In some embodiments, the second twisting comprises the following specific steps: using napped yarns after napping treatment as core wires, using Nm4 # 2 roving as a no-overfeed decorative wire, and using PVA filaments as a fixed wire; the core wire is positioned in the middle, but the drafting zone directly enters the leather collar, the 2# roving is respectively positioned at the left and right sides, after passing through the drafting zone, the 2# roving is clamped by a small traversing roller to form a flat yarn layer and then enters the leather collar, and the 2# roving is positioned at the two sides of the core wire and finally reinforced by PVA filaments to form a covering yarn with an outer layer of cashmere yarn layer and an inner core of spun silk cashmere drawn wool yarn; the distance between the core wire in the leather collar and the left and right yarn layers is 5-8mm, the frequency of the small transverse moving roller is adjusted according to the yarn outlet speed, the control frequency is 1350 times/min and 1600 times/min, the moving distance does not exceed 6mm, and the width of the yarn layers is ensured to be 8-10 mm. The stroke is determined according to the number of the thick yarn. Preferably, the inner twist is controlled to be 650-1200T/m, and the outer twist is controlled to be 400-600T/m.

In some embodiments, the rewinding step further comprises a step of removing the fiber of the covering yarn, which is as follows: and (2) placing the coated yarn in a vinylon removing treatment solution with a bath ratio of 1:30-50, heating to 100 ℃ from room temperature at a speed of 1-5 ℃/min, performing constant-temperature bath decomposition for 20-45min, then respectively washing with clear water at 80 ℃ and 60 ℃ for 3-5min in sequence, washing with cold water, and drying to obtain the high-count spun silk and cashmere composite yarn. The PVA filaments are dissolved by the wrapping yarns after the vinylon is removed, and because certain pores are formed between the outer cashmere yarn layer and the inner cashmere wool yarn of the wrapping yarns, the bending of the weaving structure enables the cohesive strength of the outer cashmere roving of the yarns to be improved, the formed composite yarns are wholly soft and fluffy, and the spun silk of the core layer further improves the strength of the composite yarns, so that the composite yarn products can meet higher requirements in hand feeling and strength.

Preferably, the de-vitalizing treatment fluid comprises: 1-3g/L of penetrant DJ-1399, 4-8g/L of NaOH, 0.01-0.2g/L of diphenyl phosphoric acid and 0.03-0.15g/L of dextro-quinic acid, and the solvent is water. When the PVA companion spinning filament is dissolved, the PVA molecules are detached from the yarn to easily cause yarn shrinkage and strong damage, diphenyl phosphoric acid and dextro-quinic acid enter the yarn along with a penetrant in the solvation process of PVA heated dissolution, the anti-adhesion effect of the PVA molecules on fibers during outward diffusion can be weakened, the shrinkage stress of the PVA molecules on surrounding fibers is reduced, the shrinkage and deformation of the yarn caused by the anti-adhesion effect are weakened, and the shrinkage rate and the deformation degree of the yarn are reduced; meanwhile, the weakening of the anti-adhesion function can protect and enable the retention rate of the yarn strength to reach more than 90 percent, and the purpose of effectively retaining the strength of the high-count yarn without reducing the spinnability of the high-count yarn is achieved, so that the yarn has enough strength to deal with the tension generated in the subsequent weaving process and improve the weaving efficiency.

In the invention, in order to obtain good yarn forming quality, process parameters are reasonably selected according to the characteristics of fibers, and strict and complete preparation methods and processes are established by taking reduction of fiber damage, reduction of neps, improvement of yarn evenness and reduction of yarn hairiness as key points of attack. Unless otherwise specified herein, the methods and procedures for making the soluble PVA fibers and spun silk described herein above refer to methods well known to those skilled in the art, such as spooling and doubling. And, all process parameters herein are determined according to methods commonly used as understood by those skilled in the art.

The invention combines the spun silk and the cashmere by adopting the mode of combining the napping yarn and the covering yarn to obtain the high-count spun silk and cashmere composite yarn, thereby having the following beneficial effects: 1) the spun silk and cashmere composite yarn combines spun silk and cashmere, and uses cashmere fibers with two different specifications at the same time, the yarn count of the spun silk and cashmere composite yarn can reach more than 100, the yarn quality is stable, and the semi-finished product quality, the production efficiency and the finished product quality all obtain ideal effects; 2) the high count composite yarn is fluffy cashmere yarn, and has an internal and external double-layer structure, while the internal layer napping yarn provides strength, fluff can be in an irregular scattering state, so that a fluffy pore layer is arranged between the external cashmere yarn layer and the internal core layer, the fluffy degree of hand feeling is improved, and the strength is good; after the yarns are brushed, the outer cashmere yarn layer can form a cashmere layer, and meanwhile, the cashmere fibers of the inner core layer can be brought out to generate cohesion with the outer cashmere fibers, so that the outer cashmere fibers are not easy to fall off, and the hand feeling and the cashmere feeling of the yarns can be improved; 3) the preparation method aims at the problem of poor cohesive force of protein fibers such as spun silk and the like, the high-count spun silk and cashmere composite yarn is prepared by modifying equipment parts of a twisting machine, using a mode of combining napping yarn and covering yarn, and adding soluble PVA filament yarn in a covering yarn process to enhance weaving strength.

Therefore, the invention is a preparation method of high-count composite yarn which combines spun silk and cashmere of two specifications, the production count can reach more than 100, the detumescence shrinkage rate and the deformation degree of the yarn are low, the strength retention rate of the finished yarn can reach more than 90%, and the finished yarn has excellent quality and high spinnability.

Drawings

FIG. 1 shows the results of the determination of the shrinkage of yarn after the yarn is drawn by different processes;

FIG. 2 shows the results of measurements of single yarn strength and strength retention of yarns after different vinylon treatments.

Detailed Description

The technical solution of the present invention is further described in detail below with reference to the following detailed description and the accompanying drawings:

here, overfeed is the ratio of the speed at which the cords are fed to the speed at which the cords are fed.

In a specific implementation scene, in the napping step, napping yarns produced by 1# roving and spun silk are put on a napping machine, the gauge is controlled to be not higher than 15, the number of napping tracks is at least 40, and loops of the napping yarns are pulled apart. The phenomenon of smooth yarn is noticed during napping, and the phenomenon of slippage and broken ends easily caused by no cohesive force during plying is avoided.

In a specific implementation scenario, in the rewinding step, the coated yarn twisted by the secondary twisting is discharged from the machine, and the rewinding speed is 200-400 m/min.

As an improvement of the above scheme, in the step of pretreating cashmere fibers, the wool treating agent further comprises: 0.01-0.1 weight portion of o-nitrobenzoic acid and 0.05-0.1 weight portion of aminoacetic acid. The wool oil and the wool oil can be cooperated to moisten and soften the hairiness of cashmere fibers, so that the hairiness amount of the fibers can be obviously reduced, the spinnability and the finished product quality of the fibers are improved, the surface friction force of the fibers and yarns can be reduced and smoother, the wear resistance of the fibers and the yarns is improved, and the yarns and fabrics show excellent fuzzing and pilling resistance; in addition, the functional groups can be attached to the surface of the fiber, and the adsorption and fixation of the fiber to dye can be facilitated in the subsequent dyeing process, so that the effect of enhancing the color fastness of the fiber is provided, and the dyeing quality, the color durability and the wear-resistant and washing-resistant performance of the fiber are obviously improved.

The present invention and the conventional techniques in the embodiments are known to those skilled in the art and will not be described in detail herein.

It is to be understood that the foregoing description is intended to be illustrative or exemplary and not limiting, and that changes and modifications may be made by those skilled in the art within the scope and spirit of the appended claims. In particular, the present invention covers other embodiments having any combination of features from the different embodiments described above and below, without the scope of the invention being limited to the specific examples below. The use of numerical ranges by endpoints includes all numbers within that range and any range within that range, for example, 1 to 5 includes 1, 1.1, 1.3, 1.5, 2, 2.75, 3, 3.80, 4, and 5, and the like.

Example 1:

a preparation method of high-count composite yarn comprises the following specific steps:

1) respectively selecting 25 parts by weight of 1# cashmere fiber with the count of 80S and the average length of 45mm, 15 parts by weight of 2# cashmere fiber with the count of 48S and the average length of 80mm, respectively adding a wool finishing agent into the raw materials of the 1# cashmere fiber and the 2# cashmere fiber, then mixing in a wool making machine to obtain wool fibers, then sealing the wool fibers, placing the wool fibers in a moisture regain room with the temperature of 60 ℃ and the relative humidity of 85% for 30 hours to enable the fibers to fully absorb antistatic oil and moisture, and finally obtaining the preprocessed 1# cashmere fiber and the preprocessed 2# cashmere fiber; the wool finishing agent comprises the following raw materials in parts by weight: 0.6 part of antistatic agent, 0.7 part of wool oil, 0.3 part of organic silicone oil, 0.5 part of penetrating agent JFC and 10 parts of water; the weight ratio of the wool finishing agent to the 1# and 2# cashmere fibers is 1.5: 5;

2) carrying out wool top dyeing, strip mixing, first needle, second needle and third needle on the 1# cashmere fiber, and finally preparing 1# rough yarn with Nm4 through a roving machine; the on-machine moisture regain of the cashmere fiber is 22%, the workshop temperature is 25 ℃, the relative humidity is 70%, the gauge of the roving frame is 28mm, and the drafting multiple is 7 times; the unevenness of the yarn of the No. 1 roving is less than or equal to 3.5 percent, and the twist of the No. 1 roving is 58T/m;

3) carrying out wool top dyeing, strip mixing, first needle, second needle, third needle and fourth needle on the 2# cashmere fiber, and finally preparing 2# rough yarn with Nm4 through a roving machine; the on-machine moisture regain of the cashmere fiber is 22%, the workshop temperature is 25 ℃, the relative humidity is 70%, the gauge of a roving frame is 28mm, and the drafting multiple is 7 times; the twist of the 2# roving is 50T/m;

4) taking 25 parts by weight of spun silk, then taking two spun silks as core wires on a twisting machine, taking the No. 1 roving as a decorative wire, and preparing into napped yarn with the count of Nm36 through a twisting step; the inner twist number is 650T/m, and the outer twist number is 380T/m; under the condition of ensuring the yarn count is dry, the drafting and overfeeding are increased as much as possible, the overfeeding of the twisting machine is 1.6, the drafting multiple is 26-28, and the large circle can be ensured; during production, attention is paid to the speed of the whole vehicle, the speed is 5000r/s, and the phenomenon that the vehicle is too fast and easy to break is prevented;

5) putting the napped yarns produced by the 1# roving and the spun silk on a napping machine, wherein the gauge is 13, the number of napping tracks is 44, and pulling loops of the napped yarns apart; the smooth yarn phenomenon is noticed during napping, so that the phenomenon of slippage and broken ends easily caused by no cohesive force during plying is avoided;

6) using napped yarns after napping treatment as core wires, using Nm4 # 2 roving as over-feed-free decorative wires, and using 40 parts by weight of soluble PVA filaments as fixed wires; the core wire is positioned in the middle, but the drafting zone directly enters the leather collar, the 2# roving is respectively positioned at the left and the right, the flat yarn layer is formed by clamping the 2# roving through a small traversing roller after passing through the drafting zone and then enters the leather collar, and the 2# roving is positioned at the two sides of the core wire and finally reinforced by PVA filaments to form the covering yarn with an outer layer being a cashmere yarn layer and an inner core being spun silk cashmere wool drawn yarn; the distance between the core wire in the leather collar and the left and right yarn layers is 7mm, the frequency of the small transverse roller is adjusted according to the yarn outlet speed, the control frequency is 1500 times/min, the stroke is determined according to the number of the thick yarns, the stroke is 4.5mm, and the width of the yarn layers is ensured to be 9 mm; the inner twist number is 880T/m, and the outer twist number is 430T/m;

7) putting the secondary twisted covered yarn off the machine, and rewinding at the speed of 300 m/min;

8) after rewinding is finished, the wrap yarn is subjected to the vinylon removal treatment as follows: placing the coated yarn in a vinylon removing treatment solution, heating to 100 ℃ at a bath ratio of 1:35 at 3 ℃/min from room temperature, performing constant-temperature bath for 30min, then respectively performing oscillation washing for 3min by using clear water at 80 ℃ and 60 ℃ in sequence, washing with cold water, drying to obtain the high-count spun silk and cashmere composite yarn, and packaging the finished product; the above-mentioned treatment fluid for removing vitamins includes: 2.5g/L of penetrant DJ-1399, 5g/L of NaOH, 0.08g/L of diphenyl phosphate and 0.1g/L of dextro-quinic acid, and the solvent is water.

In the above-mentioned secondary flower twists step, the machine is twisted to the flower, and its process flow specifically is: a group of small rollers with threads are added before 2# roving enters a leather roller, a traversing device is added on the group of small rollers, a flat buncher is added before the roving passes through the leather roller, the situation that the roving is excessively dispersed to cause fiber scattering is avoided, the 2# roving is dispersed into a flat yarn layer, and the flat yarn layer is uniformly coated on the surface of the napped yarn without exposing bottom yarn. The number of the produced composite yarns is 140 according to the detection of the industry standard FZ/T71006-2009.

Example 2:

a method of making a high count composite yarn which in operation differs from example 1 only in that: in the step of pretreating cashmere fibers, the wool treating agent also comprises 0.05 part by weight of o-nitrobenzoic acid and 0.08 part by weight of aminoacetic acid.

Example 3:

a method of making a high count composite yarn which in operation differs from example 1 only in that: in the dimension removing treatment of the step 8), the dimension removing treatment liquid comprises: 2.5g/L of penetrant DJ-1399, 5g/L of NaOH and 0.08g/L of diphenylphosphoric acid, and the solvent is water; d-quinic acid was not added.

Example 4:

a method of making a high count composite yarn which in operation differs from example 1 only in that: in the dimension removing treatment of the step 8), the dimension removing treatment liquid comprises: 2.5g/L of penetrant DJ-1399, 5g/L of NaOH and 0.1g/L of dextro-quinic acid, and the solvent is water; diphenylphosphoric acid was not added.

Example 5:

a method of making a high count composite yarn which in operation differs from example 1 only in that: in the dimension removing treatment of the step 8), the dimension removing treatment liquid comprises: 2.5g/L of penetrant DJ-1399 and 5g/L of NaOH, and the solvent is water; diphenylphosphoric acid and D-quinic acid were not added.

Example 6:

a method of making a high count composite yarn which in operation differs from example 2 only in that: in the step of pretreating cashmere fibers, the wool treating agent also comprises 0.05 part by weight of o-nitrobenzoic acid, and no aminoacetic acid is added.

Example 7:

a method of making a high count composite yarn which in operation differs from example 2 only in that: in the pretreatment step of the cashmere fiber, the wool treatment agent also comprises 0.08 weight part of aminoacetic acid, and no o-nitrobenzoic acid is added.

Experimental example 1:

determination of the Retention shrinkage of high count composite yarn

The experimental method comprises the following steps: the covering yarn yarns produced by the secondary twist of the yarns produced in examples 1 and 3 to 5 were used as experimental samples, and 10 yarns were used as one strand in each example, and each strand was 50cm long. The yarn was suspended vertically, a pre-tension (1g weight) was applied to one end of the yarn, and the pre-processed length L0 of the yarn was measured and recorded. Then treated according to the step of removing vitamins in examples 1 and 3-5 respectively, and dried at 60 ℃. The yarn-treated length L1 was then measured in the same manner. The yarns were equilibrated in a standard atmospheric equilibration chamber for 12h before measurement. The experimental results were averaged over three measurements. A control composite yarn was prepared in the manner described in example 1, and the vinylon-removing treatment liquid included 2.5g/L of the penetrant DJ-1399 and solvent water. The yarn shrinkage to draw down was calculated as follows: shrinkage rate is (L0-L1)/L0 × 100%. The results are shown in FIG. 1.

FIG. 1 shows the results of the determination of the shrinkage of the yarn after the yarn is drawn by different processes. The results show that the de-dimensional shrinkage of example 1 is only 4.7%, while examples 3-5 are 8.3%, 10.2% and 9.4%, respectively; the control had a vinylon reduction of 13.4%. It can be seen that, through the fiber removing treatment of example 1, the fiber removing shrinkage of the yarn can be reduced to less than 5%, the shrinkage and deformation of the yarn caused by the reverse adhesion when the PVA molecules are released from the yarn can be weakened, the yarn shrinkage and deformation degree can be reduced, the finished yarn is fluffy, the length change is small, and the finished yarn can show the advantages of low shrinkage and good dimensional stability.

Experimental example 2:

strength and strength retention test of high count composite yarn

The experimental method comprises the following steps: the two-ply twist-twisted covered yarn prepared in examples 1 and 3-5, respectively, were used as test samples for single yarn strength measurement P0 on a universal strength tester according to astm d2256 single yarn strength test standard. The clamping distance is 250mm, the speed is 100mm/min, the measurement times are 20 times, and the average value of the experimental results is obtained. Then treated according to the step of removing vitamins in examples 1 and 3-5 respectively, and dried at 60 ℃. The single yarn strength P1 of the yarn was then measured in the same manner. And calculating the strength retention rate by the following method: the retention of strength was P1/P0X 100%. And (3) before the yarn strength is measured, the yarn is placed in a standard textile atmosphere balancing box for balancing for 12 hours. The test conditions are as follows: an atmosphere environment with a temperature of 25 ℃ and a humidity of 40 percent. A control composite yarn was prepared in the manner described in example 1, and the vinylon-removing treatment liquid included 2.5g/L of the penetrant DJ-1399 and solvent water. The results are shown in FIG. 2.

FIG. 2 shows the results of measurements of single yarn strength and strength retention of yarns after different vinylon treatments. The results show that after the step of the vinylon reduction treatment of example 1, the strength of the yarn is 327.6cN, the retention is 93.4%, and can be maintained at 90% or more; whereas the yarns of examples 3-5 had tenacity of 284.8cN, 300.9cN and 288.7cN, respectively, and retention of 81.2%, 85.8% and 82.3%, respectively; the control had a potency of 258.9cN and a retention of only 73.8%. That is, the method of the embodiment 1 can effectively maintain the strength of the high count yarn without reducing the spinnability thereof, so that the yarn has sufficient strength to cope with the tension generated in the subsequent weaving process and improve the weaving efficiency.

Experimental example 3:

color fastness determination of high count composite yarn

The experimental method comprises the following steps: the high count composite yarns were prepared according to the methods of examples 1, 2, 6, and 7, with the same steps and parameters of the top dyeing process in each method, as follows: the dye dosage is 4% owf, the bath ratio is 1:50, and 10% H concentration is used₂SO₄Adjusting pH of the dye bath to 5-6 with the solution, adding cashmere fiber into the dye bath at 25 deg.C, maintaining the temperature for 10min, heating to 80 deg.C at 2 deg.C/min, maintaining the temperature for 10min, adding anhydrous Na 2% of the dye bath₂SO₄Accelerating dyeing, keeping the temperature for 40min, draining, and washing with hot water and cold water at 40 ℃ in sequence. The dye is lanosol lanoline blue 3G. And detecting the color fastness performance of the finally prepared composite yarn. (2) And (3) fastness detection: the color fastness to rubbing is determined according to the color fastness test of GB/T3920-2008 textile; the soaping color fastness is determined according to the standard GB/T3921-2008 textile color fastness test; and (3) measuring the color fastness to perspiration in a color fastness to perspiration GB/T3922-2013 textile color fastness test. The results are shown in table 1 below.

TABLE 1 measurement results of color fastness of high count composite yarn

The result shows that the yarn of the example 2 has the highest comprehensive color fastness level, the dry-wet rubbing fastness of the yarn reaches 5 grades, the soaping fastness reaches 5 grades, the acid perspiration fastness reaches 4 grades, and the alkali perspiration fastness reaches 5 grades; the color fastness indexes of the example 2 are obviously improved compared with those of the example 1, and the example 2 shows a synergistic effect compared with the examples 6 and 7. The method of example 2 is demonstrated to be beneficial to the adsorption and fixation of the fiber to the dye, and provide the function of enhancing the color fastness of the fiber, so that the dyeing quality, the color durability and the wear and washing resistance of the fiber are obviously improved.

Example 4:

determination of pilling resistance of high count composite yarn

The experimental method comprises the following steps: the high count composite yarns prepared by the methods of examples 1, 2, 6 and 7 were used as experimental samples to weave rib-weave knitted pieces, and the anti-pilling performance of the fabrics was tested according to GB/T4802.3-2008, determination of pilling performance of textile fabrics, part 3, pilling Box method. The experimental method comprises the following steps: a pilling test box is adopted, the preset friction revolution is 7200, 4 samples with the size of 114mm multiplied by 114mm are cut, the samples are balanced for more than 24 hours under the standard atmospheric condition (the temperature is 20 +/-2) DEG C and the relative humidity is 65 +/-3%) before testing, then the testing is carried out under the standard atmospheric condition, and the experimental result is the average value of three times of measurement. The results are shown in table 2 below.

TABLE 2 measurement results of pilling resistance of high count composite yarn

	Example 1	Example 2	Example 6	Example 7
					Anti-pilling grade/grade	3	4	3-4	3

The results show that: the anti-pilling rating of example 2 can reach 4, while the anti-pilling rating of example 1 can reach 3, which is lower than the anti-pilling capability of example 2; example 2 showed a significant improvement in the pilling resistance ratings over example 1, and example 2 showed a synergistic effect relative to examples 6 and 7. The method of example 2 is shown to reduce the friction force on the surface of the fiber and yarn to make the surface smoother, and to improve the wear resistance of the fiber and yarn, so that the yarn and fabric exhibit excellent pilling resistance.

Conventional techniques in the above embodiments are known to those skilled in the art, and therefore, will not be described in detail herein.

The above embodiments are merely illustrative, and not restrictive, and those skilled in the art can make various changes and modifications without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. Therefore, all equivalent technical solutions also belong to the scope of the present invention, and the protection scope of the present invention should be defined by the claims.

Claims (8)

1. A method of making a high count composite yarn comprising: wool top dyeing → mixed sliver → gill-comb → roving → one-time flower-twisting → wool-drawing → two-time flower-twisting → inverted cone → finished product packaging, which is characterized in that:

providing 1# cashmere fibers and 2# cashmere fibers, and respectively carrying out wool top dyeing → sliver mixing → gilling → roving steps to prepare 1# roving and 2# roving;

two spun silks are used as core wires, the 1# roving is used as a decorative wire, and a napped yarn is prepared through a one-time twisting step; the production count of the napping yarn is Nm35-Nm 38;

after the napped yarn is napped, the napped yarn is used as a core wire, the No. 2 roving is used as a non-overfed decorative wire, the PVA filament is used as a fixed wire, and secondary twisting is carried out to prepare a covered yarn;

-rewinding said covered yarn to obtain said high count composite yarn; the number of the composite yarns is not less than 100;

in the step of secondary twisting, the twisting machine is modified, and the process flow specifically comprises the following steps: a group of small rollers with threads are added before the 2# roving enters the leather roller, a traversing gear is added on the group of small rollers, a flat buncher is added before the 2# roving passes through the leather roller, the situation that the roving is excessively dispersed to cause fiber scattering is avoided, the 2# roving is dispersed into a flat yarn layer and uniformly coated on the surface of the napped yarn without exposing bottom yarn;

the method is characterized by further comprising a step of removing the fiber of the wrapping yarn after the step of rewinding, and comprises the following specific steps: and (2) placing the coated yarn in a vinylon removing treatment solution with a bath ratio of 1:30-50, heating to 100 ℃ from room temperature at a speed of 1-5 ℃/min, performing constant-temperature bath decomposition for 20-45min, then respectively washing with clear water at 80 ℃ and 60 ℃ for 3-5min in sequence, washing with cold water, and drying to obtain the high-count spun silk and cashmere composite yarn.

2. A method of making a high count composite yarn as in claim 1 wherein: the count of spun silk in the composite yarn raw material is Nm120, the count of 1# cashmere fiber is 80S, and the count of 2# cashmere fiber is 48S.

3. A method of making a high count composite yarn as in claim 1 wherein: the 1# and 2# cashmere fibers further comprise the following pretreatment steps before wool top dyeing is carried out: respectively adding a wool finishing agent into raw materials of the 1# cashmere fiber and the 2# cashmere fiber, then mixing in a wool finishing machine to obtain wool fibers, then sealing the wool fibers, and placing the wool fibers in a moisture regain room with the temperature of 50-70 ℃ and the relative humidity of 80-95% for not less than 24 hours to finally obtain the pretreated 1# cashmere fiber and the pretreated 2# cashmere fiber.

4. A method of making a high count composite yarn as in claim 3 wherein: the wool finishing agent comprises the following raw materials in parts by weight: 0.2-0.8 part of antistatic agent, 0.3-1 part of wool oil, 0.1-0.5 part of organic silicone oil, 0.3-0.6 part of penetrating agent JFC and 8-10 parts of water; the weight ratio of the wool treating agent to the 1# and 2# cashmere fibers is 1-2: 5.

5. A method of making a high count composite yarn as in claim 1 wherein: the specific pre-spinning production steps of the 1# roving are as follows: carrying out wool top dyeing, strip mixing, first needle, second needle and third needle on the 1# cashmere fiber, and finally preparing 1# rough yarn with Nm4 through a roving machine; the specific pre-spinning production steps of the 2# roving are as follows: carrying out wool top dyeing, strip mixing, first needle, second needle, third needle and fourth needle on the 2# cashmere fiber, and finally preparing the 2# rough yarn with Nm4 through a roving frame.

6. A method of making a high count composite yarn as in claim 5 wherein: in the pre-spinning production steps of the 1# and 2# roves, the on-machine moisture regain of the cashmere fiber is 17-25%, the workshop temperature is 19-26 ℃, the relative humidity is 65-80%, the gauge of the roving machine is 20-30mm, and the drafting multiple is less than or equal to 8.5 times; the unevenness of the yarn levelness of the 1# roving is less than or equal to 3.5 percent.

7. A method of making a high count composite yarn as in claim 1 wherein: in the primary twisting step, the overfeed of the twisting machine is 1.6, the draft multiple is 26-28, and the vehicle speed is controlled to be not higher than 6000 r/s.

8. A method of making a high count composite yarn as in claim 1 wherein: the secondary twisting comprises the following specific steps: using napped yarns after napping treatment as core wires, using Nm4 # 2 roving as a no-overfeed decorative wire, and using PVA filaments as a fixed wire; the core wire is positioned in the middle, but the drafting zone directly enters the leather collar, the 2# roving is respectively positioned at the left and right sides, after passing through the drafting zone, the 2# roving is clamped by a small traversing roller to form a flat yarn layer and then enters the leather collar, and the 2# roving is positioned at the two sides of the core wire and finally reinforced by PVA filaments to form a covering yarn with an outer layer of cashmere yarn layer and an inner core of spun silk cashmere drawn wool yarn; the distance between the core wire in the leather collar and the left and right yarn layers is 5-8mm, the frequency of the small transverse moving roller is adjusted according to the yarn outlet speed, the control frequency is 1350 times/min and 1600 times/min, the moving distance does not exceed 6mm, and the width of the yarn layers is ensured to be 8-10 mm.

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