CN110670196A - Semi-worsted pure cashmere high-count yarn and preparation method thereof - Google Patents
Semi-worsted pure cashmere high-count yarn and preparation method thereof Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN110670196A CN110670196A CN201911031518.0A CN201911031518A CN110670196A CN 110670196 A CN110670196 A CN 110670196A CN 201911031518 A CN201911031518 A CN 201911031518A CN 110670196 A CN110670196 A CN 110670196A
- Authority
- CN
- China
- Prior art keywords
- cashmere
- speed
- yarn
- semi
- worsted
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Pending
Links
Classifications
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
- D02G3/04—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
- D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
- D10B2211/02—Wool
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2321/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D10B2321/06—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds polymers of unsaturated alcohols, e.g. polyvinyl alcohol, or of their acetals or ketals
Landscapes
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
Abstract
The invention discloses a semi-worsted pure cashmere high count yarn and a preparation method thereof, wherein the preparation method comprises the following steps:
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of spinning, in particular to semi-worsted pure cashmere high count yarn and a preparation method thereof.
Background
With the development of the times and the progress of science and technology, the requirements of people on the quality and the appearance of clothes are more strict and diversified, the combed wool fabric is gradually developed towards comfort and light and thin, and particularly, the great female consumers pursue beauty, and the combed wool fabric is fashionable, novel and personalized in sexual feeling, and has the advantages of keeping warm and showing the coquettish posture of females.
Limited by equipment and process, the traditional cashmere spinning always adopts a carding spinning system, has high requirements on raw materials, has the fiber length of more than 34mm, and can spin about 26N. In order to break through the limitation and give full play to the performance characteristics of cashmere, cashmere fibers with the medium length of more than 45mm and the fineness of 15.5 mu m are adopted for semi-worsted spinning to produce high count yarn of 60Nm on a ring spinning machine. In recent years, the spinning process level in China has been greatly improved, and many manufacturers have the capability of automatically producing high count yarns, but the number of the spun yarns is not more than 60 Nm.
Under the development form of the textile industry at home and abroad at present, enterprises are not allowed to go on a low-price and low-quality extensive route, and products with high quality and high technical content are required to meet higher and higher consumption requirements of people. The innovative process is utilized in the production process, and the semi-worsted product with high quality, high technical content and high added value is produced, so that the method has positive guiding significance for the semi-worsted product.
Disclosure of Invention
The semi-worsted pure cashmere high-count yarn has the advantages that ① is stable in quality, strength of raw yarn is high, breakage is not prone to occurring in the manufacturing process, yarn count ② is high, yarn count can be 96Nm, the length of ③ is 34mm in raw materials, requirements for the raw materials are reduced, cost of the raw materials is correspondingly low, and fabrics made of the semi-worsted pure cashmere high-count yarn are light, thin, fluffy and soft in hand feeling, attractive and vivid, and fresh in style, meet aesthetic requirements of people, and meet requirements of markets.
The technical scheme adopted by the invention for solving the technical problems is as follows:
a preparation method of semi-worsted pure cashmere high count yarn comprises the following steps:
preferably, the preparation method of the semi-worsted pure cashmere high-count yarn comprises the following steps:
(1) and wool stifling: opening dyed cashmere raw materials by a wool making machine, adding a mixed solution of 13% Ningbo Di antistatic agent and 87% warm water, and closing a bin for more than 24 hours to ensure that the antistatic agent is fully permeated and absorbed to achieve the balanced required moisture regain; wherein the length of the cashmere is 33.5-35.5 mm, and the short content is 14.9%; the average fineness of cashmere is 15.5 microns, the average length of PVA fiber is 38 millimeters, and the fineness is 2.2 dtex;
(2) fiber mixing: fully mixing the cashmere after being subjected to the storehouse-closing curing with PVA (polyvinyl alcohol) which is independently opened by an opener after being opened by the wool making machine, and opening the cashmere twice by the wool making machine, wherein the storehouse-closing curing time is more than 24 hours, so that the antistatic agent is fully permeated and absorbed; in order to mix two fibers uniformly, the operation is strictly carried out according to the wool blending requirement such as a 'transverse laying and vertical taking' method, so that yarn defects such as uneven mixing and the like caused by uneven wool blending are reduced; blending is a key process, raw materials are in a loose state after blending is loosened, and the raw materials before blending are required to be loosened first;
(3) carding cotton: the cashmere and PVA which are uniformly mixed by the wool blending machine are carded into strips by the semi-worsted carding machine, because combing is not carried out in the semi-worsted process flow, the length dispersion in the cashmere fibers is large, the content of short fibers is high, the fibers are easy to damage when the spinning process is not properly processed, during the drafting process, the short fibers are properly controlled, the wool particles are easy to cause, the strength of the wool is small, the wool is easy to break into ultra-short fibers and the wool falls, so the carding and the drafting are both paid attention to, and the carding and the drafting are not overlarge; the licker-in speed is 0-680 r/min, the effective carding length of the cotton feeding plate is lengthened by 27.5mm, meanwhile, the cylinder-cover plate spacing distance is properly enlarged to 0.15mm, the cover plate speed is increased to 240mm/min, and other technological measures are taken to reduce fiber damage, and in addition, the angle of the card clothing is increased to 85 degrees, so that good fiber transfer is facilitated, and wool tops and wool particles are reduced; properly widening the distance between the licker-in and the cotton feeding plate to be controlled at 13 English silks, and carding and outputting strips with the fixed quantity of 16 +/-1 g/5 m; the rotating speed of the cylinder is 235-250 r/min, and the rotating speed of the doffer is 16-17 r/min;
(4) drawing: drawing the carded wool tops, optimizing the drawing process, and adopting the process principles of light weight, small drawing and low speed; the adoption of the four-parallel process is beneficial to uniform mixing of colors and uniform evenness, and each drawing adopts 8 slivers to be combined to reduce the drawing multiple and is beneficial to uniform evenness; meanwhile, in order to reduce the winding of the wool fibers on the roller of the leather roller, the mechanical speed of drawing is properly reduced, the hardness of the leather roller is increased, the surface is treated by coating, the smoothness is improved, and the winding resistance is enhanced; the weight of the discharged sliver is 16-17 g/5m, the drafting is 8 times, the gauge length is 12 multiplied by 24mm, and the speed is 650 m/min; secondly, the weight of the produced sliver is 15.3-16 g/5m, the drafting is 8.35 times, the gauge is 12 multiplied by 24mm, and the speed is 600 m/min; thirdly, the weight of the produced sliver is 15 plus or minus 0.2 g/5m, the drafting is 8.25 times, the gauge is 12 multiplied by 24mm, and the speed is 550 m/min; fourthly, the weight of the combined sliver is 14.5 plus or minus 0.2 g/5m, the drafting is 8 times, the gauge is 12 multiplied by 24mm, and the speed is 550 m/min;
(5) roving: in the roving step, the roving process controls the sliver outlet weight and the spinning tension, the roving twist is also improved according to the cashmere performance, and the twist is properly increased when the cashmere proportion is high under the condition that the spun yarn does not have a hard end, so that the roving has enough strength, and the fiber can be well and fully drafted on a spinning frame; the roving draft multiple is 6.45, the speed is 700M/min-850M/min, the sliver output weight is 4.5 +/-0.1 g/10M, and the twist is 55T/M-60T/M;
(6) spinning: in the spinning step, the spinning process is configured according to the quality requirement of semi-worsted yarn, the drafting multiple is 27 times, and the twist is about 1110T/M-1200T/M;
(7) spooling: the vehicle speed is controlled to be 0-700 m/min, the long wrong branch is 7.5%, and the short wrong branch is 7%;
(8) and (3) doubling: doubling the high-quality bobbin processed by winding, wherein the doubling speed is not too high due to thin yarn count and weak cashmere strength, the process is set to be 300m/min, and the tension is 10 CN;
(9) double twisting: doubling and doubling, then twisting for two times, and semi-worsted cashmere yarn has the difficulties of weak strength, fluff falling, fluffing and pilling; the semi-worsted yarn generally takes plied yarn as a final finished product, the uniformity of twist distribution has certain influence on the yarn quality and the outside, so a yarn making process of winding, doubling and double twisting is adopted, the distribution of the single yarn twist and the ply twist is very important, in order to improve the strength, the pilling resistance and the hand feeling of the semi-worsted yarn, the process principle of making and ordering the single yarn and the plied yarn is that the single yarn twist is slightly larger, and the plied yarn twist is properly improved under the condition of not increasing the skewness of weft; meanwhile, the difference of the tension of the doubling and the difference of the spindle speed of the two-for-one twister are reduced as much as possible, and the uniformity of the twist distribution of the plied yarns is improved; the two-for-one twisting speed is 7500-8500 r/min, and the twist is 580T/M-630T/M;
(10) and (6) rewinding.
Preferably, in the step (1), the mixed solution is fully and uniformly stirred until the moisture regain reaches 20%.
Preferably, in the step (1), the cashmere accounts for 50-90% of the total weight, and the PVA accounts for 10-50% of the total weight.
Preferably, in the step (2), in the fiber mixing process, the standing time of the cashmere and the PVA after being uniformly mixed is 0-2 hours, so that the PVA is prevented from being bonded.
In the step (6), the steel hooks used in the spinning step are preferably any one of 12/0, 13/0, and 14/0.
Preferably, in the step (7), the spun yarn is wound after being left for 24 hours in the winding step.
Preferably, in the step (10), in the rewinding step, the rewinding operation is performed after the two-for-one twister is left for 24 hours.
The semi-worsted pure cashmere high-count yarn is prepared by the preparation method.
In the above technical solution, in the value range represented by the symbol "-", when the lower limit end point is 0, the end point value is not included; when the lower endpoint is not 0, the endpoint value is included.
In the technical scheme, the temperature of the warm water is 40-50 ℃.
In the technical scheme, the percentage is mass percent.
The basic principle of the invention is as follows:
vinylon is a trade name for polyvinyl acetal fibers, also known as vinylon. The performance of the composite fiber is close to that of cotton, and the composite fiber is called as 'synthetic cotton', and is the variety with the highest hygroscopicity in the existing synthetic fibers. The elasticity of the fabric is the worst when the fabric is dry heat resistant and damp heat (shrinkage) resistant, the fabric is easy to wrinkle, the dyeing is poor, and the color is not bright. Vinylon is a variety with the largest moisture absorption in synthetic fibers, and the moisture absorption rate is 4.5% -5%, which is close to that of cotton (8%). The vinylon textile fabric is comfortable to wear and suitable for making underwear. Vinylon has a strength slightly higher than cotton and much higher than wool. The product is insoluble in common organic acid, alcohol, ester and petroleum solvents, is not easy to be damaged by mildew or moth, and has little loss of sun exposure intensity. Poor hot water resistance, poor elasticity and poor dyeing property. The washing and dissolving effects of vinylon are fully utilized, yarns are formed in advance in the spinning process before the fabric is washed, and therefore the effect that only cashmere fibers remain in the fabric after washing is achieved, and the effect of high count yarns is achieved. The cashmere and the vinylon are dyed, then are separated and blended, are mixed and packaged after being cured, are combed after cotton carding and adjusting the spacing, and are subjected to four-pass drawing drafting, roving twisting, spun yarn drafting, winding and yarn cleaning processes, doubling, double twisting, rewinding and packaging.
The traditional cashmere yarns adopt 100% cashmere as a raw material, the yarn count cannot break through 48Nm, and the fabric has more cloud spots and more short nubs and short details, which seriously affects the fabric quality.
The semi-worsted pure cashmere high count yarn is a mixed spinning yarn formed by dyeing cashmere with the middle length of 34mm and PVA with the length of 38mm, the PVA can be dissolved after being soaked in hot water at 70 ℃ for 15 minutes, and the mixed spinning is only used for improving the spinnability of cashmere fibers. Therefore, the proportion of PVA can be adjusted according to the count of the product to be spun. Mixing the two raw materials together by a wool making machine, further mixing the two raw materials on a carding machine to prepare slivers, and fully and uniformly mixing the slivers on a drawing frame. Because the spinning of high count yarn has certain requirements on the length and fineness of raw materials and the special performance of PVA, the following aspects need to be paid attention to in the design and production process of the production process:
(1) before wool blending, raw materials need to be pre-opened, wool oil, an antistatic agent and water are independently added into cashmere to be subjected to wool stuffiness for 24 hours, so that oil and water can fully permeate into fibers, the amount of the oil and water is proper, the cashmere can fully absorb the oil and water, when too much oil and water is added, PVA can be dissolved to generate defects, and when too little oil and water is added, the PVA cannot be fully carded, the fiber damage is large, and the wool falls too much;
(2) the carding strength of the carding machine is reduced, the damage of fibers is reduced, weak carding is achieved, the weight is light, and a cleaning cotton net is obtained;
(3) the quantitative control on drawing is about 16g/5m, and the roller center distance is properly increased by 10 percent compared with the conventional product;
(4) the coarse twist is strictly controlled, and the twist coefficient of the coarse yarn is controlled to be larger on the premise of ensuring that the spun yarn does not have a hard end;
(5) the product of the invention has water-soluble PVA with a certain proportion and PVA with different proportions, so the number of the spun yarn after water dissolution is considered when designing the twist of the spun yarn, the yarn is designed according to the number of the single yarn after water dissolution, and the twist coefficient is generally about 124;
(6) the temperature and the humidity of a workshop are strictly controlled in the production process, the temperature of the workshop is required to be controlled at 23-30 ℃ and the humidity is controlled at 60-70% in order to prevent PVA from being bonded in the spinning process.
In conclusion, the raw materials of the semi-worsted pure cashmere high-count yarn are uniformly mixed in the wool blending process in the production process, otherwise, the finished yarn is broken after PVA is dissolved in water, in addition, the PVA is prevented from being directly contacted with water in the spinning process, and the yarn cannot be shaped by steaming.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the beneficial effects that:
(1) in the spinning process, the carding machine and the last drawing frame adopt the auto-leveling technology, and the spinning frame adopts new technologies such as siro spinning and the like, so that the evenness of the yarn trunk of the cashmere yarn and the resultant yarn strength are greatly improved, the hairiness is reduced, and the surface finish of the yarn is improved; the range of the wool grains of the carding machine is less than 0.2 per gram, and the unevenness rate of the end is less than 0.4 percent; final CV value not higher than 3%; the CV value of the roving is not higher than 6 percent; the single yarn strength is more than 70; the ply yarn is not less than 220;
(2) the invention develops three new products with different counts from different proportions of vinylon and cashmere:
a first group: 90% cashmere 10% PVA;
second group: 70% cashmere 30% PVA;
third group: 50% cashmere 50% PVA.
Detailed Description
For a better understanding of the present invention, reference is made to the following examples. It is to be understood that these examples are for further illustration of the invention and are not intended to limit the scope of the invention. In addition, it should be understood that the invention is not limited to the above-described embodiments, but is capable of various modifications and changes within the scope of the invention.
Example 1 (90% Cashmere 10% PVA product)
(1) And wool stifling: opening dyed cashmere raw materials by a wool making machine, adding a mixed solution of 13% Ningbo Di antistatic agent and 87% warm water (the mixed solution is fully and uniformly stirred, and the moisture regain is 20% according to the water quantity), and closing the chamber for more than 24 hours to ensure that the antistatic agent is fully permeated and absorbed to achieve the balanced required moisture regain; wherein the length of the cashmere is 33.5-35.5 mm, and the short content is 14.9%; the average fineness of cashmere is 15.5 microns, the average length of PVA fiber is 38 millimeters, and the fineness is 2.2 dtex; the cashmere accounts for 90 percent of the total weight, and the PVA strips account for 10 percent of the total weight;
(2) fiber mixing: the cashmere after being kept in the sealed bin is fully mixed with PVA after being opened by a wool making machine and independently opened by an opener, and is opened twice by the wool making machine, the time for keeping in the sealed bin is more than 24 hours, and the antistatic agent is fully permeated and absorbed. In order to mix two fibers uniformly, the operation is strictly carried out according to the wool blending requirement such as a 'transverse laying and vertical taking' method, and yarn defects such as uneven mixing and the like caused by uneven wool blending are reduced. The wool blending is a key process, the raw materials are in a loose state after the wool blending is loosened, and the raw materials before the wool blending are required to be loosened first. Carding the uniformly mixed cashmere and PVA as early as possible, wherein the standing time cannot exceed 2 hours to prevent the PVA from being bonded;
(3) carding cotton: the cashmere and PVA mixed uniformly by the wool making machine are carded into strips by the semi-worsted carding machine, because combing is not carried out in the semi-worsted process flow, the length dispersion in the cashmere fibers is large, the content of short fibers is high, the fibers are easy to damage when the spinning process is not properly processed, during the drafting process, the short fibers are easy to control to lose property and to cause wool particles, the strength of the cashmere is small, the cashmere is easy to break into ultra-short fibers and fall, therefore, the carding and drafting are required to pay attention to, and the carding and drafting are not required to be overlarge. The speed of a licker-in is reduced to be not higher than 680r/min, the effective carding length of a cotton feeding plate is lengthened to be 27.5mm, meanwhile, the cylinder-cover plate spacing is properly enlarged to be 0.15mm, the cover plate speed is increased to be 240mm/min, and other technological measures are adopted to reduce fiber damage, and in addition, the angle of the card clothing is increased to 85 degrees, so that the good transfer of fibers is facilitated, and the generation of wool top and wool particles is reduced. The distance between the licker-in and the cotton feeding plate is properly widened and controlled at 13 English silks, and the cotton carding and sliver discharging ration is 16 +/-1 g/5 m. The cylinder rotating speed is 240r/min, and the doffer rotating speed is 16 r/min;
(4) drawing: and drawing the carded wool tops, and optimizing the drawing process by adopting the process principles of light weight, small drawing and low speed. The four-parallel technology is favorable for uniform color mixing and evenness of yarn, and each drawing adopts 8 slivers to be combined to reduce the drawing multiple and is favorable for evenness of yarn. Meanwhile, in order to reduce the winding of the wool fibers on the roller of the leather roller, the mechanical speed of drawing is properly reduced, the hardness of the leather roller is increased, the surface is treated by coating, the smoothness is improved, and the winding resistance is enhanced. The weight of the discharged sliver is 16-17 g/5m, the drafting is 8 times, the gauge length is 12 multiplied by 24mm, and the speed is 650 m/min; secondly, the weight of the produced sliver is 15.3-16 g/5m, the drafting is 8.35 times, the gauge is 12 multiplied by 24mm, and the speed is 600 m/min; thirdly, the weight of the produced sliver is 15 plus or minus 0.2 g/5m, the drafting is 8.25 times, the gauge is 12 multiplied by 24mm, and the speed is 550 m/min; fourthly, the weight of the combined sliver is 14.5 plus or minus 0.2 g/5m, the drafting is 8 times, the gauge is 12 multiplied by 24mm, and the speed is 550 m/min;
(5) roving: in the roving step, the roving process controls the sliver outlet weight and the spinning tension, the roving twist degree is also improved according to the cashmere performance, and the twist degree is properly increased when the cashmere proportion is high under the condition that the spun yarn does not have a hard end, so that the roving has enough strength, and the fiber can be well and fully drafted on a spinning frame. The roving draft multiple is 6.45, the speed is 700M/min, the sliver output weight is 4.5 +/-0.1 g/10M, and the twist is 60T/M;
(6) spinning: in the spinning step, the spinning process is configured according to the quality requirement of 'semi-worsted' yarn, the drafting multiple is 27 times, the twist is about 1110T/M, and the steel wire hook 14/0 is used;
(7) spooling: and (3) winding the spun yarn after the spun yarn is placed for 24 hours, wherein the winding is a key process for removing yarn defects and impurities. The vehicle speed is controlled below 700m/min, the long wrong branch is 7.5 percent, and the short wrong branch is 7 percent;
(8) and (3) doubling: doubling the high-quality bobbin processed by winding, wherein the doubling speed is not too high due to thin yarn count and weak cashmere strength, the process is set to be 300m/min, and the tension is 10 CN;
(9) double twisting: the difficulty of making cashmere yarns by semi-worsted spinning is weak strength, fluff falling, fluffing and pilling. The semi-worsted yarn generally uses plied yarn as a final finished product, the uniformity of twist distribution has certain influence on the yarn quality and the outside, so a yarn making process of winding, doubling and double twisting is adopted, the distribution of the single yarn twist and the total amount of plied twist is very important, and in order to improve the strength, the pilling resistance and the hand feeling of the semi-worsted yarn, the process principle of making and making the single yarn and the plied yarn is that the single yarn twist is slightly larger, and the plied yarn twist is properly improved under the condition of not increasing the skewness of weft. Meanwhile, the difference of the tension of the doubling and the difference of the spindle speed of the two-for-one twister are reduced as much as possible, and the uniformity of the twist distribution of the plied yarns is improved. The two-for-one twisting speed is 7500r/min, and the twist is 580T/M;
(10) rewinding: and (5) placing the two-for-one twister for 24 hours, and then performing rewinding operation.
Detecting according to the industry standard FZ/T71006-2009, wherein the count before dissolution is 2/54NM, and the count of a finished product after dissolution is 2/60 NM; the strength of the double-stranded yarn before dissolution is 225CN, and the official moisture regain after dissolution is 14.68%; and the CV value reached a 25% level (see, e.g., the full-Mao Utilian).
Example 2 (70% Cashmere 30% PVA)
(1) And wool stifling: opening dyed cashmere raw materials by a wool making machine, adding a mixed solution of 13% Ningbo Di antistatic agent and 87% warm water (the mixed solution is fully and uniformly stirred, and the moisture regain is 20% according to the water quantity), and closing the chamber for more than 24 hours to ensure that the antistatic agent is fully permeated and absorbed to achieve the balanced required moisture regain; wherein the length of the cashmere is 33.5-35.5 mm, and the short content is 14.9%; the average fineness of cashmere is 15.5 microns, the average length of PVA fiber is 38 millimeters, and the fineness is 2.2 dtex; the cashmere accounts for 70 percent of the total weight, and the PVA stripes account for 30 percent of the total weight;
(2) fiber mixing: the cashmere after being kept in the sealed bin is fully mixed with PVA after being opened by a wool making machine and independently opened by an opener, and is opened twice by the wool making machine, the time for keeping in the sealed bin is more than 24 hours, and the antistatic agent is fully permeated and absorbed. In order to mix two fibers uniformly, the operation is strictly carried out according to the wool blending requirement such as a 'transverse laying and vertical taking' method, and yarn defects such as uneven mixing and the like caused by uneven wool blending are reduced. The wool blending is a key process, and the raw materials after the wool blending need to be in a better opening state, so the raw materials before the wool blending need to be opened first. Carding the uniformly mixed cashmere and PVA as early as possible, wherein the standing time cannot exceed 2 hours to prevent the PVA from being bonded;
(3) carding cotton: the cashmere and PVA mixed uniformly by the wool making machine are carded into strips by the semi-worsted carding machine, because combing is not carried out in the semi-worsted process flow, the length dispersion in the cashmere fibers is large, the content of short fibers is high, the fibers are easy to damage when the spinning process is not properly processed, during the drafting process, the short fibers are easy to control to lose property and to cause wool particles, the strength of the cashmere is small, and the cashmere is easy to break into ultra-short fibers so as to fall off. Therefore, the carding and drafting should be careful and should not be too large. The speed of a licker-in is reduced to be not higher than 680r/min, the effective carding length of a cotton feeding plate is lengthened to be 27.5mm, meanwhile, the cylinder-cover plate spacing is properly enlarged to be 0.15mm, the cover plate speed is increased to be 240mm/min, and other technological measures are adopted to reduce fiber damage, and in addition, the angle of the card clothing is increased to 85 degrees, so that the good transfer of fibers is facilitated, and the generation of wool top and wool particles is reduced. The distance between the licker-in and the cotton feeding plate is properly widened and controlled at 13 English silks, and the cotton carding and sliver discharging ration is 16 +/-1 g/5 m. The rotating speed of the cylinder is 235r/min, and the rotating speed of the doffer is 16 r/min;
(4) drawing: and drawing the carded wool tops, and optimizing the drawing process by adopting the process principles of light weight, small drawing and low speed. The four-parallel technology is favorable for uniform color mixing and evenness of yarn, and each drawing adopts 8 slivers to be combined to reduce the drawing multiple and is favorable for evenness of yarn. Meanwhile, in order to reduce the winding of the wool fibers on the roller of the leather roller, the mechanical speed of drawing is properly reduced, the hardness of the leather roller is increased, the surface is treated by coating, the smoothness is improved, and the winding resistance is enhanced. The weight of the discharged sliver is 16-17 g/5m, the drafting is 8 times, the gauge length is 12 multiplied by 24mm, and the speed is 650 m/min; secondly, the weight of the produced sliver is 15.3-16 g/5m, the drafting is 8.35 times, the gauge is 12 multiplied by 24mm, and the speed is 600 m/min; thirdly, the weight of the produced sliver is 15 plus or minus 0.2 g/5m, the drafting is 8.25 times, the gauge is 12 multiplied by 24mm, and the speed is 550 m/min; fourthly, the weight of the combined sliver is 14.5 plus or minus 0.2 g/5m, the drafting is 8 times, the gauge is 12 multiplied by 24mm, and the speed is 550 m/min;
(5) roving: in the roving step, the roving process controls the sliver outlet weight and the spinning tension, the roving twist degree is also improved according to the cashmere performance, and the twist degree is properly increased when the cashmere proportion is high under the condition that the spun yarn does not have a hard end, so that the roving has enough strength, and the fiber can be well and fully drafted on a spinning frame. The roving draft multiple is 6.45, the speed is 800M/min, the sliver output weight is 4.5 +/-0.1 g/10M, and the twist is 58T/M;
(6) spinning: in the spinning step, the spinning process is configured according to the quality requirement of 'semi-worsted' yarn, the drafting multiple is 27 times, the twist is about 1150T/M, and the steel wire hook 13/0 is used;
(7) spooling: and (3) winding the spun yarn after the spun yarn is placed for 24 hours, wherein the winding is a key process for removing yarn defects and impurities. The vehicle speed is controlled below 700m/min, the long wrong branch is 7.5 percent, and the short wrong branch is 7 percent;
(8) and (3) doubling: doubling the high-quality bobbin processed by winding, wherein the doubling speed is not too high due to thin yarn count and weak cashmere strength, the process is set to be 300m/min, and the tension is 10 CN;
(9) double twisting: the difficulty of making cashmere yarns by semi-worsted spinning is weak strength, fluff falling, fluffing and pilling. The semi-worsted yarn generally uses plied yarn as a final finished product, the uniformity of twist distribution has certain influence on the yarn quality and the outside, so a yarn making process of winding, doubling and double twisting is adopted, the distribution of the single yarn twist and the total amount of plied twist is very important, and in order to improve the strength, the pilling resistance and the hand feeling of the semi-worsted yarn, the process principle of making and making the single yarn and the plied yarn is that the single yarn twist is slightly larger, and the plied yarn twist is properly improved under the condition of not increasing the skewness of weft. Meanwhile, the difference of the tension of the doubling and the difference of the spindle speed of the two-for-one twister are reduced as much as possible, and the uniformity of the twist distribution of the plied yarns is improved. The two-for-one twisting speed is 8000r/min, and the twist is 600T/M;
(10) rewinding: and (5) placing the two-for-one twister for 24 hours, and then performing rewinding operation.
Detecting according to the industry standard FZ/T71006-2009, wherein the count before dissolution is 2/48NM, and the count of a finished product after dissolution is 2/68 NM; the strength of a single strand before dissolution is 230cN, and official moisture regain is 14.33% after dissolution; and the CV value reached a 25% level (see, e.g., the full-Mao Utilian).
Example 3 (50% Cashmere 50% PVA)
(1) And wool stifling: opening dyed cashmere raw materials by a wool making machine, adding a mixed solution of 13% Ningbo Di antistatic agent and 87% warm water (the mixed solution is fully and uniformly stirred, and the moisture regain is 20% according to the water quantity), and closing the chamber for more than 24 hours to ensure that the antistatic agent is fully permeated and absorbed to achieve the balanced required moisture regain; wherein the length of the cashmere is 33.5-35.5 mm, and the short content is 14.9%; the average fineness of cashmere is 15.5 microns; the PVA fiber had an average length of 38mm and a fineness of 2.2 dtex; the cashmere accounts for 50 percent of the total weight; the PVA strips account for 50% of the total weight;
(2) fiber mixing: the cashmere after being kept in the sealed bin is fully mixed with PVA after being opened by a wool making machine and independently opened by an opener, and is opened twice by the wool making machine, the time for keeping in the sealed bin is more than 24 hours, and the antistatic agent is fully permeated and absorbed. In order to mix two fibers uniformly, the operation is strictly carried out according to the wool blending requirement such as a 'transverse laying and straight taking' method, and yarn defects such as uneven mixing and the like caused by uneven wool blending are reduced. The wool blending is a key process, and the raw materials after the wool blending need to be in a better opening state, so the raw materials before the wool blending need to be opened first. Carding the uniformly mixed cashmere and PVA as early as possible, wherein the standing time cannot exceed 2 hours to prevent the PVA from being bonded;
(3) carding cotton: the cashmere and PVA mixed uniformly by the wool making machine are carded into strips by the semi-worsted carding machine, because combing is not carried out in the semi-worsted process flow, the length dispersion in the cashmere fibers is large, the content of short fibers is high, the fibers are easy to damage when the spinning process is not properly processed, during the drafting process, the short fibers are easy to control to lose property and to cause wool particles, the strength of the cashmere is small, the cashmere is easy to break into ultra-short fibers and fall, therefore, the carding and drafting are required to pay attention to, and the carding and drafting are not required to be overlarge. The speed of a licker-in is reduced to be not higher than 680r/min, the effective carding length of a cotton feeding plate is lengthened to be 27.5mm, meanwhile, the cylinder-cover plate spacing is properly enlarged to be 0.15mm, the cover plate speed is increased to be 240mm/min, and other technological measures are adopted to reduce fiber damage, and in addition, the angle of the card clothing is increased to 85 degrees, so that the good transfer of fibers is facilitated, and the generation of wool top and wool particles is reduced. The distance between the licker-in and the cotton feeding plate is properly widened and controlled at 13 English silks, and the cotton carding and sliver discharging ration is 16 +/-1 g/5 m. The cylinder rotating speed is 250r/min, and the doffer rotating speed is 17 r/min;
(4) drawing: and drawing the carded wool tops, and optimizing the drawing process by adopting the process principles of light weight, small drawing and low speed. The four-parallel technology is favorable for uniform color mixing and evenness of yarn, and each drawing adopts 8 slivers to be combined to reduce the drawing multiple and is favorable for evenness of yarn. Meanwhile, in order to reduce the winding of the wool fibers on the roller of the leather roller, the mechanical speed of drawing is properly reduced, the hardness of the leather roller is increased, the surface is treated by coating, the smoothness is improved, and the winding resistance is enhanced. The weight of the discharged sliver is 16-17 g/5m, the drafting is 8 times, the gauge length is 12 multiplied by 24mm, and the speed is 650 m/min; secondly, the weight of the produced sliver is 15.3-16 g/5m, the drafting is 8.35 times, the gauge is 12 multiplied by 24mm, and the speed is 600 m/min; thirdly, the weight of the produced sliver is 15 plus or minus 0.2 g/5m, the drafting is 8.25 times, the gauge is 12 multiplied by 24mm, and the speed is 550 m/min; and fourthly, the weight of the drawn sliver is 14.5 +/-0.2 g/5m, the drafting is 8 times, the gauge is 12 multiplied by 24mm, and the speed is 550 m/min.
(5) Roving: in the roving step, the roving process controls the sliver outlet weight and the spinning tension, the roving twist degree is also improved according to the cashmere performance, and the twist degree is properly increased when the cashmere proportion is high under the condition that the spun yarn does not have a hard end, so that the roving has enough strength, and the fiber can be well and fully drafted on a spinning frame. The roving draft multiple is 6.45, the speed is 850M/min, the sliver output weight is 4.5 +/-0.1 g/10M, and the twist is 55T/M;
(6) spinning: in the spinning step, the spinning process is configured according to the quality requirement of 'semi-worsted' yarn, the drafting multiple is 27 times, the twist is about 1200T/M, and the steel wire hook 12/0 is used;
(7) spooling: and (3) winding the spun yarn after the spun yarn is placed for 24 hours, wherein the winding is a key process for removing yarn defects and impurities. The vehicle speed is controlled below 700m/min, the long wrong branch is 7.5 percent, and the short wrong branch is 7 percent;
(8) and (3) doubling: doubling the high-quality bobbin processed by winding, wherein the doubling speed is not too high due to thin yarn count and weak cashmere strength, the process is set to be 300m/min, and the tension is 10 CN;
(9) double twisting: the difficulty of making cashmere yarns by semi-worsted spinning is weak strength, fluff falling, fluffing and pilling. The semi-worsted yarn generally uses plied yarn as a final finished product, the uniformity of twist distribution has certain influence on the yarn quality and the outside, so a yarn making process of winding, doubling and double twisting is adopted, the distribution of the single yarn twist and the total amount of plied twist is very important, and in order to improve the strength, the pilling resistance and the hand feeling of the semi-worsted yarn, the process principle of making and making the single yarn and the plied yarn is that the single yarn twist is slightly larger, and the plied yarn twist is properly improved under the condition of not increasing the skewness of weft. Meanwhile, the difference of the tension of the doubling and the difference of the spindle speed of the two-for-one twister are reduced as much as possible, and the uniformity of the twist distribution of the plied yarns is improved. The speed of the two-for-one twisting is 8500r/min, and the twist is 630T/M;
(10) rewinding: and (5) placing the two-for-one twister for 24 hours, and then performing rewinding operation.
Detecting according to the industry standard FZ/T71006-2009, wherein the count before dissolution is 2/48NM, and the count of a finished product after dissolution is 2/96 NM; the strength of a single strand before dissolution is 240CN, and official moisture regain is 15.17% after dissolution; and the CV value reached a 25% level (see, e.g., the full-Mao Utilian).
The above description is not intended to limit the present invention, and the present invention is not limited to the above examples. Those skilled in the art should also realize that changes, modifications, additions and substitutions can be made without departing from the true spirit and scope of the invention.
Claims (8)
1. A preparation method of semi-worsted pure cashmere high count yarn is characterized by comprising the following steps:
(1) and wool stifling: opening dyed cashmere raw materials by a wool making machine, adding a mixed solution of 13% Ningbo Di antistatic agent and 87% warm water, and closing a bin for more than 24 hours to ensure that the antistatic agent is fully permeated and absorbed to achieve the balanced required moisture regain; wherein the length of the cashmere is 33.5-35.5 mm, and the short content is 14.9%; the average fineness of cashmere is 15.5 microns, the average length of PVA fiber is 38 millimeters, and the fineness is 2.2 dtex;
(2) fiber mixing: fully mixing the cashmere after being subjected to the storehouse-closing curing with PVA (polyvinyl alcohol) which is independently opened by an opener after being opened by the wool making machine, and opening twice by the wool making machine, wherein the storehouse-closing curing time is more than 24 hours;
(3) carding cotton: the licker-in speed is 0-680 r/min, the effective carding length of the cotton feeding plate is lengthened by 27.5mm, the cylinder-cover plate spacing is enlarged to 0.15mm, the cover plate speed is increased to 240mm/min, and in addition, the card clothing angle is increased to 85 degrees; properly widening the distance between the licker-in and the cotton feeding plate to be controlled at 13 English silks, and carding and outputting strips with the fixed quantity of 16 +/-1 g/5 m; the rotating speed of the cylinder is 235-250 r/r/min, and the rotating speed of the doffer is 16-17 r/min;
(4) drawing: adopting a four-parallel process, wherein each drawing adopts 8 slivers to be combined; the weight of the discharged sliver is 16-17 g/5m, the drafting is 8 times, the gauge length is 12 multiplied by 24mm, and the speed is 650 m/min; secondly, the weight of the produced sliver is 15.3-16 g/5m, the drafting is 8.35 times, the gauge is 12 multiplied by 24mm, and the speed is 600 m/min; thirdly, the weight of the produced sliver is 15 plus or minus 0.2 g/5m, the drafting is 8.25 times, the gauge is 12 multiplied by 24mm, and the speed is 550 m/min; fourthly, the weight of the combined sliver is 14.5 plus or minus 0.2 g/5m, the drafting is 8 times, the gauge is 12 multiplied by 24mm, and the speed is 550 m/min;
(5) roving: the drafting multiple is 6.45, the speed is 700M/min-850M/min, the weight of the drawn sliver is 4.5 +/-0.1 g/10M, and the twist is 55T/M-60T/M;
(6) spinning: the drafting multiple is 27 times, and the twist is 1110T/M-1200T/M;
(7) spooling: the vehicle speed is controlled to be 0-700 m/min, the long wrong branch is 7.5%, and the short wrong branch is 7%;
(8) and (3) doubling: the doubling speed is set to be 300m/min, and the tension is 10 CN;
(9) double twisting: the two-for-one twisting speed is 7500-8500 r/r/min, and the twist is 580T/M-630T/M;
(10) and (6) rewinding.
2. The method for preparing semi-worsted pure cashmere high-count yarn according to claim 1, wherein in the step (1), the mixed solution is fully and uniformly stirred, and the moisture regain is 20% according to the water content.
3. The method for preparing semi-worsted pure cashmere high-count yarn according to claim 1, wherein in the step (1), the cashmere accounts for 50-90% of the total weight, and the PVA accounts for 10-50% of the total weight.
4. The method for preparing semi-worsted pure cashmere high-count yarn according to claim 1, wherein in the step (2), the standing time of the cashmere and PVA after being uniformly mixed in the fiber mixing process is 0-2 hours.
5. The method for preparing semi-worsted pure cashmere high-count yarn according to claim 1, wherein in the step (6), the steel hooks used in the spinning process are any one of 12/0, 13/0 and 14/0.
6. The method for preparing semi-worsted pure cashmere high-count yarn according to claim 1, wherein in the step (7), the spun yarn is wound after being left for 24 hours in the winding process.
7. The method for preparing semi-worsted pure cashmere high-count yarn according to claim 1, wherein in the step (10), in the rewinding process, rewinding operation is performed after the two-for-one twister is placed for 24 hours.
8. A semi-worsted pure cashmere high-count yarn, characterized in that the yarn is prepared by the method for preparing the semi-worsted pure cashmere high-count yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 7.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201911031518.0A CN110670196A (en) | 2019-10-28 | 2019-10-28 | Semi-worsted pure cashmere high-count yarn and preparation method thereof |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201911031518.0A CN110670196A (en) | 2019-10-28 | 2019-10-28 | Semi-worsted pure cashmere high-count yarn and preparation method thereof |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| CN110670196A true CN110670196A (en) | 2020-01-10 |
Family
ID=69084530
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201911031518.0A Pending CN110670196A (en) | 2019-10-28 | 2019-10-28 | Semi-worsted pure cashmere high-count yarn and preparation method thereof |
Country Status (1)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| CN (1) | CN110670196A (en) |
Cited By (4)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN111349997A (en) * | 2020-04-24 | 2020-06-30 | 维信（内蒙古）针织高科技有限公司 | Water-soluble fiber and cashmere blended 36-count semi-worsted yarn and preparation method thereof |
| CN112442771A (en) * | 2020-11-13 | 2021-03-05 | 浙江羊绒世家服饰有限公司 | Water-soluble fiber and high count cashmere yarn spinning process |
| CN112981643A (en) * | 2021-02-07 | 2021-06-18 | 康宝莱(宁波)织造有限公司 | Preparation method of high-count composite yarn |
| CN113737338A (en) * | 2021-10-11 | 2021-12-03 | 浙江新澳纺织股份有限公司 | Production method of water-soluble single yarn |
Citations (7)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN1869303A (en) * | 2006-06-28 | 2006-11-29 | 内蒙古鹿王羊绒有限公司 | Fine cashmere single-yarn textile and its production process |
| CN101603223A (en) * | 2008-06-11 | 2009-12-16 | 上海春竹企业发展有限公司 | Cashmere and water-soluble fibre blended yarn, preparation method and knit product thereof |
| CN101880928A (en) * | 2010-01-15 | 2010-11-10 | 山东祥鼎毛绒纺织有限公司 | Semi-worsted cashmere soluble polyvinylalcohol blended yarn and processing method thereof |
| CN102747483A (en) * | 2012-07-19 | 2012-10-24 | 宁波康赛妮纺织品有限公司 | Method for producing carrier PVA (polyvinyl acetate) soluble fiber product by high-density combed cashmere |
| CN105586674A (en) * | 2014-10-22 | 2016-05-18 | 天津市天羊纺织有限公司 | Slub containing water soluble fiber and method for using same in machine embroidery |
| CN106435885A (en) * | 2015-08-07 | 2017-02-22 | 宁波康赛妮纺织品有限公司 | Preparation technology for cashmere hollow yarns |
| CN108728961A (en) * | 2018-06-13 | 2018-11-02 | 内蒙古新力纺织科技股份有限公司 | A kind of cashmere water soluble fiber mixing spinning method for genuine |
-
2019
- 2019-10-28 CN CN201911031518.0A patent/CN110670196A/en active Pending
Patent Citations (7)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN1869303A (en) * | 2006-06-28 | 2006-11-29 | 内蒙古鹿王羊绒有限公司 | Fine cashmere single-yarn textile and its production process |
| CN101603223A (en) * | 2008-06-11 | 2009-12-16 | 上海春竹企业发展有限公司 | Cashmere and water-soluble fibre blended yarn, preparation method and knit product thereof |
| CN101880928A (en) * | 2010-01-15 | 2010-11-10 | 山东祥鼎毛绒纺织有限公司 | Semi-worsted cashmere soluble polyvinylalcohol blended yarn and processing method thereof |
| CN102747483A (en) * | 2012-07-19 | 2012-10-24 | 宁波康赛妮纺织品有限公司 | Method for producing carrier PVA (polyvinyl acetate) soluble fiber product by high-density combed cashmere |
| CN105586674A (en) * | 2014-10-22 | 2016-05-18 | 天津市天羊纺织有限公司 | Slub containing water soluble fiber and method for using same in machine embroidery |
| CN106435885A (en) * | 2015-08-07 | 2017-02-22 | 宁波康赛妮纺织品有限公司 | Preparation technology for cashmere hollow yarns |
| CN108728961A (en) * | 2018-06-13 | 2018-11-02 | 内蒙古新力纺织科技股份有限公司 | A kind of cashmere water soluble fiber mixing spinning method for genuine |
Cited By (5)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN111349997A (en) * | 2020-04-24 | 2020-06-30 | 维信（内蒙古）针织高科技有限公司 | Water-soluble fiber and cashmere blended 36-count semi-worsted yarn and preparation method thereof |
| CN112442771A (en) * | 2020-11-13 | 2021-03-05 | 浙江羊绒世家服饰有限公司 | Water-soluble fiber and high count cashmere yarn spinning process |
| CN112442771B (en) * | 2020-11-13 | 2022-03-08 | 浙江羊绒世家服饰股份有限公司 | Water-soluble fiber and high count cashmere yarn spinning process |
| CN112981643A (en) * | 2021-02-07 | 2021-06-18 | 康宝莱(宁波)织造有限公司 | Preparation method of high-count composite yarn |
| CN113737338A (en) * | 2021-10-11 | 2021-12-03 | 浙江新澳纺织股份有限公司 | Production method of water-soluble single yarn |
Similar Documents
| Publication | Publication Date | Title |
|---|---|---|
| CN100540771C (en) | Fine-denier Modal fiber blended color yarn and production method thereof | |
| CN110670196A (en) | Semi-worsted pure cashmere high-count yarn and preparation method thereof | |
| CN103046200B (en) | Natural bamboo fiber shirt fabric and manufacture method thereof | |
| CN102358972B (en) | Blended yarns of mercerized wool, chinlon and anti-pilling acrylic fibers and preparation method thereof | |
| CN101418484B (en) | Blended spinning method of long spinning and damp spinning for bast fibers | |
| CN201459317U (en) | Color-blended bulky yarn | |
| CN102677243B (en) | The preparation method of superfine cashmere woven yarn | |
| CN105755622B (en) | A kind of rove method AB yarn production technologies | |
| CN102704108B (en) | Cotton fiber and jutecell fiber blended yarn and spinning process thereof | |
| CN102465377A (en) | Process for manufacturing kapok fiber blended yarns | |
| CN107059195A (en) | A kind of production method of PBT coloured silks point covering yarn | |
| CN104711729B (en) | Blended yarn of all-new ultra-mimic cotton fibers and mercerized wool fibers and spinning process thereof | |
| CN101377031A (en) | Yarn of blended spinning by combing cotton, spun silk and cashmere and its processing method | |
| CN106048790A (en) | Method for producing extra high count compact spinning yarn by using superfine denier tencel fiber | |
| WO2019051939A1 (en) | Multicolor gradient digital yarn knitted fabric and preparation method therefor | |
| CN103215712B (en) | Super short-thin soft fiber gathers suede spinning and production method thereof | |
| CN101760836A (en) | Tencel nylon iridescent fabric and processing method thereof | |
| CN108468146A (en) | A kind of multifunctional terylene vortex-spun fabric and its production method | |
| CN110725034A (en) | High-proportion worsted cotton-wool blended fiber product and preparation method thereof | |
| CN104611800A (en) | High-count combed camel hair woven yarn | |
| CN102534914B (en) | Snowflake yarn and manufacturing method thereof | |
| CN107723890B (en) | Preparation method of cotton viscose dyed woven starching-free woven fabric | |
| CN102877176A (en) | Spun silk, pima cotton, tencel and nandina fiber blended siro spinning process | |
| CN104611797A (en) | Wine red superfine denier yarn bamboo fiber and special-shaped colored polyester fiber blending product and spinning method thereof | |
| CN101724943B (en) | Wool acrylic tencel yarn and spinning method thereof |
Legal Events
| Date | Code | Title | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| PB01 | Publication | ||
| PB01 | Publication | ||
| SE01 | Entry into force of request for substantive examination | ||
| SE01 | Entry into force of request for substantive examination | ||
| RJ01 | Rejection of invention patent application after publication |
Application publication date: 20200110 |
|
| RJ01 | Rejection of invention patent application after publication |