CN102677243B - The preparation method of superfine cashmere woven yarn - Google Patents

The preparation method of superfine cashmere woven yarn Download PDF

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Publication number
CN102677243B
CN102677243B CN201210141489.5A CN201210141489A CN102677243B CN 102677243 B CN102677243 B CN 102677243B CN 201210141489 A CN201210141489 A CN 201210141489A CN 102677243 B CN102677243 B CN 102677243B
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cashmere
yarn
grilling
fibre
road
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CN102677243A (en
Inventor
杨立功
肖长海
张洪斌
李惠琴
许彦才
吴雁斌
袁基伟
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NINGXIA JIAYUAN CASHMERE GROUP CO Ltd
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NINGXIA JIAYUAN CASHMERE GROUP CO Ltd
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Abstract

The present invention is the manufacture method of a kind of superfine cashmere woven yarn, it is that 40% 55% soluble vinylon fibers are sufficiently mixed with a point comb cashmere fibres at wool blending step by weight, through carding, grilling, combing, grilling, front spin, rove, spinning process, the single thread made, then sequentially pass through winder, doubling, twist thread and make cashmere and vinylon fibre scribbled;Scribbled makes goods through warping, weaving, obtains ultra-fine cashmere finished product normally washing dissolving removing soluble vinylon fiber in compression process.The pure floss high-count yarn that the present invention produces is higher than normal pure floss yarn input-output ratio.

Description

The preparation method of superfine cashmere woven yarn
Technical field
The invention belongs to textile technology field, particularly to the manufacture method of a kind of superfine cashmere woven yarn.
Background technology
In recent years, the development trend of weaving face fabric is mainly: raw material diversification, product is lightening, pattern trend, einnehmen function.In order to comply with this trend, textile enterprise develops high light product one after another, to meet the demand in market.
Cashmere textile industry height props up the development of light and thin type product, is restricted by raw material mix;Because a high light and thin type cashmere product is limited by yarn cross section number of fiber, what current quality was best divides a comb cashmere material fineness is 14.5-15um, and pure limit count to greatest extent of spinning is 100Nm.
Cashmere raw material resources seriously restrict China's cashmere textile industry development, and the spinnability of raw material is a key factor of restriction height light and thin type cashmere goods development.Due to the shortage of high-quality cashmere raw material resources, for producing the high-quality cashmere needed for height light and thin type product, price is sufficiently expensive.
Although single-warp single-abb woven cashmere goods can make cashmere fabric lightening, but low owing to there is yarn strength, weaving difficulty, it is impossible to realize batch production.
Soluble polyvinylalcohol companion is utilized to spin the cashmere product producing height light and thin type, on the basis of existing high-quality cashmere raw material, spinning process adds polyvinyl companion spin, breach the problem that yarn cross section number of fiber does not reaches requirement, improve again the spinning property of yarn, the technical research of this respect has good prospect.
Summary of the invention
It is an object of the invention to overcome prior art defect, it is provided that the preparation method of a kind of superfine cashmere woven yarn.
The purpose of the present invention realizes according to following proposal:
The manufacture method of superfine cashmere woven yarn, it is 40%-55% soluble vinylon fiber by weight and a point comb cashmere fibres is sufficiently mixed at wool blending step, through carding, grilling, combing, grilling, front spin, rove, spinning process, the single thread made, then sequentially pass through winder, doubling, twist thread and make cashmere and vinylon fibre scribbled;Scribbled makes goods through warping, weaving, obtains ultra-fine cashmere finished product normally washing dissolving removing soluble vinylon fiber in compression process;
Used point of comb cashmere fibres of above-mentioned raw materials: length: 36-40MM;Fineness: 14.5-15 μm;Vinylon fibre: length 38MM;Fineness: 1.5D;Real yarn metric count: 107-115Nm/2, moves back yarn metric count: 178-256Nm/2 after dimension;Twist factor: single thread 103;Stock yarn 82;
Above-mentioned spinning technological process is followed successively by: and hair oiling, carding, slubbing grilling, two road grillings, three road grillings, combing, four road grillings, finisher gilling, silver mixing, slubbing grilling, two road grillings, three road grillings, four road grillings, rove, spun yarn, winder, doubling, double twisting;
Described vinylon fibre is that water miscible polyvinyl dissipates fibre, and solution temperature is 40 DEG C, fibre length: 38 ± 2mm, fibre fineness: 1.5D, and single fiber does fracture strength: >=4cN/dtex.
Present invention employs polyvinyl companion and spin the spinning technique of kind, its technique is substantially identical with normal kind, and difference is:
(1) vinylon fibre is not required to dyeing.Owing to polyvinyl removes during Final finishing, so being not required to dyeing;Do not has dyed polyvinyl during the Final finishing of non-openpore fabric, still further it can be seen that the degree removed.
(2) it is not required to yarn steaming, in order to avoid damp and hot violent contraction met during yarn steaming by polyvinyl, is unfavorable for the production of later process.
Advantages of the present invention is embodied in the following aspects:
1, the present invention produce pure floss high-count yarn higher than normal pure floss yarn input-output ratio.
As a example by a point comb cashmere for a diameter of 15 μm puts into production, compare limit count and finished weight.
(1) limit count increases substantially: be 60 calculating with yarn cross section number of fiber, normal pure floss kind can only spin 68Nm, and when using the present invention, owing to occupying the polyvinyl of 40%~55%, spinning count can bring up to 107~115Nm (cashmere and polyvinyl blend fibre cross section radical are by 45 calculating), spinning the most in the manner of the present invention, spinning count can improve 39~47Nm.
(2) during Final finishing, the polyvinyl of 40%~55% is removed, and in the case of not considering the number shrinkage of finished yarn, theoretical yarn count brings up to 178~256Nm, i.e. on the basis of original raising 39~47Nm, improves again 139~209Nm.In a word, using the cashmere of same fineness, produce by the mode of the present invention, finished product yarn count can improve 110~188Nm.
(3) move back after dimension removes polyvinyl, weight saving, alleviate that degree is 68Nm pure floss kind 0.45~0.6 times.I.e. produce by the mode of the present invention, fabric can be made lightening.
2, the present invention uses the most ripe combing Cashmere Yarn Series production line equipment to produce, and is not required to introducing equipment or carries out scrap build.
3, the present invention improves the strength of fiber, adds the spinnability of yarn;Decrease on the basis of not improving cashmere quality and comprehensively use floss amount, effectively save material, greatly reduce production cost.
4, more high-grade product can be produced by point comb cashmere raw material of high-quality, the technology of the present invention, drastically increase value-added content of product, open new market for manufacturing enterprise, create considerable economic benefit and social benefit.
Detailed description of the invention
1, the determination of cashmere fibres blending ratio
According to product style and the requirement of fabric construction, design polyvinyl proportion is 40%~55% the most suitable.
Choose rational blending ratio, the style of finished product should be considered, be easy to weaving again and produce.
It is too low that polyvinyl is mixed into ratio, and after removing polyvinyl, yarn count improves little, for producing the frivolous kind of height without much meanings;It is too high that polyvinyl is mixed into ratio, and after removing polyvinyl, yarn count improves big, but there is contradiction between weaving and finished product style.Polyvinyl is to add in spinning process, removes during Final finishing, and grey cloth is cashmere polyvinyl blended yarn weaved fabric, and finished product is free from the pure velvet fabric of polyvinyl.If considering in terms of convenient weaving production, utilizing upper secret degree weaving, but after removing polyvinyl during Final finishing, finished product style does not reaches requirement, fabric is the laxest, the most plentiful;If considering in terms of reaching the requirement of finished product style, on the scribbled containing polyvinyl, secret degree certainly will be excessive, and weaving production cannot be carried out.
Below by the method for backward reasoning, derive rational cashmere polyvinyl blending ratio.
On the one hand, start with in terms of being easy to weave production, it is considered to select bigger upper secret degree, but less than the upper secret degree of maximum.Value is in maximum the 95% of secret degree, it may be assumed that
P=P1 × 95% (1)
P reasonably goes up secret degree
Secret degree in the maximum of P1 cashmere polyvinylalcohol blended yarn
On the other hand, the worsted cashmere scarf tippet of design medium density, require to start with from meeting finished product style, it is considered to upper secret degree value is 65%~75% of secret degree in maximum, it may be assumed that
P=P2 × (65%~75%) (2)
P2 secret degree in the maximum of pure floss yarn after removing polyvinyl
And select upper secret degree, the two condition to be met simultaneously, (1) formula is substituted into (2) formula:
P1/P2=67%~78% (3)
For same fabric, density is directly proportional to the evolution of metric count, it may be assumed that
P1/P2=(Nm1/Nm2)1/2(4)
(4) formula is substituted into (3) formula:
Nm1/Nm2=45%~60% (5)
The metric count of Nm1 polyvinyl companion's spinning
Nm2 is the metric count of pure floss yarn after removing polyvinyl
(5) formula explanation: the number of polyvinyl companion's spinning be remove polyvinyl after pure floss yarn count 45%~60%, calculate according to design kind, being i.e. mixed into the ratio of polyvinyl is 40%~55% for the most reasonable.
2, production-line technique flow process and technological parameter
Polyvinyl companion spin pure floss height prop up in the yarn cross section radical of frivolous kind due to include 45%~60% soluble polyvinylalcohol fiber, not only relatively reduce the cross section radical of cashmere fibres, and substantially increase the spinning property of yarn.
Technological process: and hair oiling, carding, slubbing grilling, two road grillings, three road grillings, combing, four road grillings, finisher gilling, silver mixing, slubbing grilling, two road grillings, three road grillings, four road grillings, rove, spun yarn, winder, doubling, double twisting.
Now as a example by polyvinyl companion spins cashmere yarn 110Nm/2, illustrate bar processed, spinning production process:
2.1 bar technological process processed and technological parameters:
Raw material: 37mm divides comb cashmere 52% (w), 38mm vinylon fibre 48% (w)
1) wool blending step
(1) first will carry out refueling with hair after point comb cashmere shredding with mixing willow, and select FX908 and crude oil and FX-AS301 antistatic additive, weight oil-water ratio be 1: 0.5: 8;
(2) require that mixing, shredding, feeding are uniform;
(3) domestic mixing willow selected by mixing willow.
2) carding process
(1) technological parameter:
Operation Combined roots (root) Shaping weight (grams m) Deviation of weight (grams m)
Carding 1 8 ±2
(2) domestic worsted card selected by combing machine for fur;
3) slubbing grilling operation
(1) technological parameter:
(2) France's NSC GN5 gill box selected by slubbing gill box
4) two road grilling operation
(1) technological parameter:
France's NSC GN5 gill box selected by (2) two road gill boxes
5) three road grilling operation
(1) technological parameter:
France's NSC GN5 gill box selected by (2) three road gill boxes
6) combing process
(1) technological parameter:
Operation Combined roots (root) Shaping weight (grams m) Deviation of weight (grams m)
Combing 8-10 16 ±2
(2) France's NSC PB30 combing machine selected by combing machine
7) four road grilling operation
(1) technological parameter:
France's NSC GN5 gill box selected by (2) four road gill boxes
8) finisher gilling operation
(1) technological parameter:
(2) France's NSC GN5 gill box selected by finisher box
Bar workshop processed temperature 20-28 DEG C, relative humidity 55-65%
2.2 spinning technological process and technological parameter:
1) silver mixing operation
(1) technological parameter:
(2) France's NSC GN6 gill box selected by gilling machine
(3) silver mixing refueling water selects FX908 and crude oil and FX-AS301 antistatic additive, and profit weight ratio is 1: 0.5: 8;Official regain 10%.
2) slubbing grilling operation
(1) technological parameter:
(2) France's NSC GN6 gill box selected by slubbing gill box
3) two road grilling operation
France's NSC GN6 gill box selected by (2) two road gill boxes
4) three road grilling operation
(1) technological parameter:
Italy's Szentendre SHS-24 gill box selected by (2) three road gill boxes
5) four road grilling operation
(1) technological parameter:
Italy's Szentendre SHS-24 gill box selected by (2) four road gill boxes
6) Roving Frames
(1) technological parameter:
(2) Italy's Szentendre RF5 fly frame selected by fly frame
7) spinning process
(1) technological parameter:
(2) Italy's COGNETEX spinning frame selected by spinning frame
(3) spinning evenness Wu Site CV value: 20%
8) winding procedure
(1) technological parameter:
(2) automatic winder selects Italy's SAVIO ORION bobbin-winding machine
9) doubling operation
(1) technological parameter:
(2) domestic doubling frame selected by doubling frame
10) double twisting operation
(1) technological parameter:
(2) domestic two-for-one twister selected by two-for-one twister
The technical specification of finished yarn:
The count of yarn: 110Nm/2 (moves back count of yarn 220Nm/2 after dimension)
Percentage of count deviation: ± 4.5% percentage of twist deviation: ± 5%
Twist Unevenness: ± 10% yarn fibers content: 100%
Yarn oil and fat content: 1.2-1.5% single thread strip dry CV value: 20%.

Claims (1)

1. the manufacture method of superfine cashmere woven yarn, it is 40%-55% soluble vinylon fiber by weight and a point comb cashmere fibres is sufficiently mixed at wool blending step, through carding, grilling, combing, grilling, front spin, rove, spinning process, the single thread made, then sequentially pass through winder, doubling, twist thread and make cashmere and vinylon fibre scribbled;Scribbled makes goods through warping, weaving, obtains ultra-fine cashmere finished product normally washing dissolving removing soluble vinylon fiber in compression process;
Used point of comb cashmere fibres of raw material: length: 36-40MM;Fineness: 14.5-15 μm;Vinylon fibre: length 38MM;Fineness: 1.5D;Real yarn metric count: 107-115Nm/2, moves back yarn metric count: 178-256Nm/2 after dimension;Twist factor: single thread 103;Stock yarn 82;
Above-mentioned spinning technological process is followed successively by: and hair oiling, carding, slubbing grilling, two road grillings, three road grillings, combing, four road grillings, finisher gilling, silver mixing, slubbing grilling, two road grillings, three road grillings, four road grillings, rove, spun yarn, winder, doubling, double twisting;
Described vinylon fibre is that water miscible polyvinyl dissipates fibre, and solution temperature is 40 DEG C, fibre length: 38MM, fibre fineness: 1.5D, and single fiber does fracture strength: >=4cN/dtex.
CN201210141489.5A 2012-05-09 2012-05-09 The preparation method of superfine cashmere woven yarn Active CN102677243B (en)

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CN102704099A (en) * 2012-06-06 2012-10-03 内蒙古鹿王羊绒有限公司 220Nm pure cashmere spun yarn and preparation method thereof
CN102936772B (en) * 2012-11-16 2016-01-13 宁夏嘉源绒业集团有限公司 High-count worsted cashmere silk blending yarn and manufacture method thereof
CN103031636A (en) * 2012-12-14 2013-04-10 江苏黄果树服饰有限公司 Spinning method of yarn
CN103451793B (en) * 2013-08-29 2016-01-20 新疆华春毛纺有限公司 16 goat cashmere single thread spinning process
CN103924395B (en) * 2014-04-15 2015-12-02 清华大学 The methods and applications of the two-sided machine embroidery of woollen spun fingering yarn
CN104372476A (en) * 2014-12-09 2015-02-25 河北浩丽羊绒科技有限公司 Long cashmere yarn manufacture method
CN104611800B (en) * 2015-02-01 2018-05-15 宁夏嘉源绒业集团有限公司 High count combing camel's hair weaving yarn
CN106435885A (en) * 2015-08-07 2017-02-22 宁波康赛妮纺织品有限公司 Preparation technology for cashmere hollow yarns
CN106435887A (en) * 2016-07-25 2017-02-22 赤峰东盛亿纺织有限公司 42S ultrafine cashmere high counts woollen hosiery yarn preparation method
CN106283312B (en) * 2016-10-28 2018-06-19 江苏中孚达科技股份有限公司 A kind of spinning process of superelevation branch silk/camel's hair combed yarn
CN108468121A (en) * 2018-05-31 2018-08-31 浙江神州毛纺织有限公司 A kind of processing method of wool air yarn
CN108728961A (en) * 2018-06-13 2018-11-02 内蒙古新力纺织科技股份有限公司 A kind of cashmere water soluble fiber mixing spinning method for genuine

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