CN1869303A - Fine cashmere single-yarn textile and its production process - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a high counts pure cashmere single yarn fabric and the manufacture method. It is spinning from pure cashmere high counts single yarn fabric and aqueous fusion. The mightiness could reach 200CN, weaving density 160/10cm-200/10cm. Using dying machine taking the place of washing dolly while washing, the rolling speed is 30-35round/minutes, fabric softening agent 0.1-0.5G/L, washing for 20-30 minutes in 50-80 degree centigrade water to form high counts pure cashmere single yarn fabric. The invention exerts the advantages of the fiber to extreme.

Description

A kind of fine cashmere single-yarn textile and production technology thereof

One, technical field

The utility model relates to a kind of fine cashmere single-yarn textile and production technology thereof, belongs to field of textiles.

Two, background technology

Goat cashmere belongs to rare special animal fiber, is a kind of textile raw material of preciousness, is called " fiber diamond " abroad, " soft gold ".But because the disorderly competition in cashmere market in recent years, pouring in of low grade products, the in short supply of domestic and international cashmere resources and waste have been caused, the processing of cashmere product blind expansion on low-level, make cashmere resources more and more nervous, and cost of material constantly goes up, and the finished product price is constantly drop but, and the space that makes cashmere manufacturing enterprise generate profit is more and more littler.Therefore, the light and thin type fleece fabrics of developing a kind of high added value is imperative, and this is to reasonable use cashmere resources, and it is significant to promote the industry technology development.In recent years, strong enterprise also is being engaged in the research of this respect always, make great efforts to improve the number of cashmere yarn, make fabric reach lightening, increase the scientific and technological content and the added value of cashmere product, but because cashmere fiber itself is powerful on the low side, length is short partially, and the number that improves cashmere yarn is subjected to certain restriction, and the high-count of present pure cashmere yarn is 100NM, and only limit to strand yarn and use, fine cashmere single-yarn textile is not also seen on market.Also there are some enterprises' trials to spin and produce cashmere light and thin type fabric with water soluble fiber and cashmere companion, but all get nowhere, fabric is when the arrangement of back, it is big to move back the dimension difficulty, it is poor to move back dimension back fabric yarn bar evenness, fabric construction pine is mashed, and the style of product and taking are descended, so that this method is used on the single thread is just more inadvisable.

Three, summary of the invention

The technical problem that the utility model solves is: move back dimension back fabric yarn lines and do evenly, fabric construction is straight, smooth through, latitude, the style and the taking of product are improved, the spinning height of pure cashmere props up single thread by pooling capital with water soluble yarn, make yarn satisfy requirements of weaving process, and by suitably reducing Density, it is easier, more thorough to make washing move back dimension, has solved the displacement of yarn in the water-washing process.

Technical solution:

(1) technological process:

And hair------------------------------twisting thread,--yarn steaming--is gaited, denting and--to be weaved that--the base inspection--repairs that--dimension is moved back in washing, and----------cutting--is torn yarn open---check to ripe repairing to fulling milling in decatizing in flatiron winder spun yarn rove three road draftings six pins five pins four pins three pins two pins scalp acupuncture in doubling in combing in carding by warping

Pure cashmere high single thread and water soluble yarn also close and weave, and during spinning, use the water soluble yarn of 45 ℃-80 ℃ of molten points to prop up single thread with the cashmere height and close, and brute force reaches more than the 200CN; Density when weaving: 160/10cm---200 root/10cm, when moving back dimension, washing select for use the tension-free machine that dyes to replace dolly, drum rotation speed: 30--35 rev/min, add fabric along lubrication prescription: 0.1-0.5G/L, with 50 ℃---80 ℃ temperature washing 20-30 branch dissolves away water soluble yarn and the height that forms props up the pure fleece fabrics of light and thin type.

The double twisting twist is 200-500T/M.

The fabric yarn number is 60/1-120/1, and the water soluble yarn number is 60/1-150/1.

The high single thread of pure cashmere also can be the high single thread of cashmere blending.

Pure cashmere high single thread and water soluble yarn and close after, also can with other yarn collocation use, form fabric a kind of vegetarian noodles or that colored type is arranged.

The production craft step of fine cashmere single-yarn textile:

1, earlier cashmere is spun into the 60NM---120NM single thread:

Ingredient requirement: pure goat cashmere, intermediate length 38-40mm, fineness 14.4-15.2 μ m, short fiber content 5.2-7.5%;

Spinning: main technologic parameters:

Rove: rove hank number 2.8NM, twist 32T/M, drafting multiple 7 is twisted with the fingers to Z;

Spun yarn: spun yarn number 80NM, twist 1100T/M, drafting multiple 28.6 is twisted with the fingers to Z;

Yarn steaming: temperature: 60 ℃-70 ℃, the time: 8--10 branch, single cycle mode;

2. adopt the PVA water-soluble fibre of LMP, be spun into the 60NM-150NM single thread;

3. cashmere single thread and water soluble fiber single thread are combined into 2 strands and twisting, the twist: 200-500T/M twists with the fingers to S, ingot speed: 6100RPM;

4. weave: on the machine through close: 160--200 root/10cm, filling density on the machine: 160--200 root/10cm tissue: twill, plain weave or satin weave;

5. dimension is moved back in washing: water level: 350--400L, and auxiliary agent: peregal 0:0.1-0.15G/L, the precious C:0.2-0.3G/L of dye bath dyes machine cylinder rotating speed: 30--35 rev/min;

Advance cloth when water temperature rises to 50 ℃, 50 ℃-80 ℃ washing 20-30 branches are cooled to 60 ℃, and flushing 10-20 branch is reduced to room temperature and gone out car;

After fabric is washed, become 60NM-120NM cashmere single-yarn textile in dying machine.

The utility model advantage:

1. in spinning process, adopted the water-soluble single thread of PVA of 100% LMP, carry out with pure cashmere single thread and close, the twist, yarn steaming technology by science, brute force with the cashmere folded yarn promotes 3-4 doubly breakthroughly, it is lower to have solved the cashmere single thread force, is difficult to satisfy the technical barrier of requirements of weaving process.

2. when weaving process designs, adopt appropriate density, under the preceding topic of the style that guarantees fabric, reduce Density as far as possible, easier, more thorough to guarantee that dimension is moved back in washing.

3. washing and moving back dimension is another core technology of this project.Because Density is less, yarn is very thin, yarn is very easy to displacement in water-washing process, cause fabric face not uniform,, replace dolly with rope dyeing machine during washing in order to overcome this problem, to reduce the tension force of water-washing process, to dye the machine rotating speed simultaneously and drop to minimumly, and and add the precious C of fabric shape stabilizing agent dye bath, it is minimum that the thread laying degree is dropped to.It is lighter, gentleer, thinner that the utility model appearance effect reaches, and feel is better.And increased the scientific and technological content of cashmere product, and make the utilization of cashmere resources more scientific, rationalize.

Four, the specific embodiment

With pure cashmere 80/1 ultrathin cashmere scarf is example, and its technology is as follows:

(1) technological process:

And hair------------------------------twisting thread,--yarn steaming--is gaited, denting and--to be weaved that--the base inspection--repairs that--dimension is moved back in washing, and----------cutting--is torn yarn open---check to ripe repairing to fulling milling in decatizing in flatiron winder spun yarn rove three road draftings six pins five pins four pins three pins two pins scalp acupuncture in doubling in combing in carding by warping

(2) technological parameter and measure:

1, cashmere single thread

(1) raw material: ingredient requirement: pure goat cashmere, intermediate length 40mm, fineness 14.8 μ m, short fiber content 7.5%.

(2) through and hair, carding, twice grilling, combing, four road grillings, three road draftings after, rove, spun yarn.

Fiber index after the combing:

Middle long: 46mm, average long: 47.5mm is the shortest: 18mm

(3) main technologic parameters:

Rove: rove hank number 2.8NM, twist 32T/M, drafting multiple 7 is twisted with the fingers to Z.

Spun yarn: spun yarn number 80NM, twist 1100T/M, drafting multiple 28.6 is twisted with the fingers to Z.

(4) yarn steaming: number 80/1 yarn was 60 ℃ in temperature, with single cycle mode yarn steaming 10 minutes

2, water-soluble fibre single thread

(1) raw material: select intermediate length 51mm for use, the water soluble fiber of fineness 2.2D.

(2) technological process: carding, drafting, rove, spun yarn

(3) main technologic parameters:

Rove: rove hank number 2.8NM, twist 32T/M, drafting multiple 7 is twisted with the fingers to Z.

Spun yarn: spun yarn number 80NM, twist 850T/M, drafting multiple 28.6 is twisted with the fingers to Z.

3, the folded yarn of two kinds of single thread

Double twisting: plying number 80NM, twist 300T/M twists with the fingers to S.

4, weave: design specification: 180*60+1.5*2/65g

Last machine is through close: 180/10cm, and last machine filling density: 180/10cm, length on the machine: 194.6cm, width on the machine: 70cm, fabric tissue: 2/2

5. arrangement:

Water level: 350L, auxiliary agent: peregal 0:0.2G/L, the precious C:0.2G/L of dye bath dyes the machine cylinder rotating speed: 30 rev/mins; When water temperature rises to 60 ℃, advance cloth, washed 20 fens for 70 ℃, be cooled to 60 ℃, washed 10 fens, reduce to room temperature and go out car;

6. fulling milling: fabric fulling milling arrangement in the cylinder rinsing machine after the dimension arrangement is moved back in washing, further improve feel. water level: 300L, hair can be clean: 6%owf, drum rotation speed: 25-30 rev/min, water temperature: 35 ℃, the fulling milling time: 8 minutes;

7. decatizing: the flatiron on boiling hot platform of the fabric behind the fulling milling is smooth, goes up decator decatizing then, makes the fabric typing and increases gloss.

Steam pressure: 3BAR, infantees pressure: 2.5BAR, air press more than the 4BAR, give vapour time: 10min, take out cool time: 6min.

Claims (6)

1, fine cashmere single-yarn textile is characterized in that: pure cashmere high single thread and water soluble yarn also close and weave, and during spinning, use the water soluble yarn of 45 ℃-80 ℃ of molten points to prop up single thread with the cashmere height and close, and brute force reaches more than the 200CN; Density when weaving: 160/10cm---200 root/10cm, when moving back dimension, washing select for use the tension-free machine that dyes to replace dolly, drum rotation speed: 30--35 rev/min, add fabric along lubrication prescription: 0.1-0.5G/L, with 50C--80 ℃ temperature washing 20-30 branch, water soluble yarn dissolved away and the height that forms props up the pure fleece fabrics of light and thin type.

2, according to claims 1 described fine cashmere single-yarn textile, it is characterized in that: the double twisting twist is 200-500T/M.

3, according to claims 1 or 2 described fine cashmere single-yarn textiles, it is characterized in that: the fabric yarn number is 60/1-120/1, and the water soluble yarn number is 60/1-150/1.

4, according to claims 3 described fine cashmere single-yarn textiles, it is characterized in that: the high single thread of pure cashmere also can be the high single thread of cashmere blending.

5, according to claims 4 described fine cashmere single-yarn textiles, it is characterized in that: pure cashmere high single thread and water soluble yarn and close after, also can with other yarn collocation use, form fabric a kind of vegetarian noodles or that colored type is arranged.

6, the production method of fine cashmere single-yarn textile, it is characterized in that: processing step is as follows:

(1) earlier cashmere is spun into the 60NM---120NM single thread:

Ingredient requirement: pure goat cashmere, intermediate length 38-40mm, fineness 14.4-15.2 μ m, short fiber content 5.2-7.5%;

Spinning: main technologic parameters:

Rove: rove hank number 2.8NM, twist 32T/M, drafting multiple 7 is twisted with the fingers to Z;

Spun yarn: spun yarn number 80NM, twist 1100T/M, drafting multiple 28.6 is twisted with the fingers to Z;

Yarn steaming: temperature: 60 ℃--70 ℃, the time: 8--10 branch, single cycle mode;

(2) the PVA water-soluble fibre of employing LMP is spun into the 60NM-150NM single thread;

(3) cashmere single thread and water soluble fiber single thread are combined into 2 strands and twisting, the twist: 200-500T/M twists with the fingers to S, ingot speed: 6100RPM;

(4) weave: on the machine through close: 160--200 root/10cm, filling density on the machine: 160--200 root/10cm tissue: twill, plain weave or satin weave;

(5) dimension is moved back in washing: water level: 350--400L, and auxiliary agent: paregal O: 0.1-0.15G/L, the precious C:0.2-0.3G/L of dye bath dyes machine cylinder rotating speed: 30--35 rev/min;

Advance cloth when water temperature rises to 50 ℃, 50 ℃-80 ℃ washing 20-30 branches are cooled to 60 ℃, and flushing 10-20 branch is reduced to room temperature and gone out car;

After fabric is washed, become 60NM-120NM cashmere single-yarn textile in dying machine.