CN102677243A - Preparation method of superfine cashmere woven yarn - Google Patents
Preparation method of superfine cashmere woven yarn Download PDFInfo
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- CN102677243A CN102677243A CN2012101414895A CN201210141489A CN102677243A CN 102677243 A CN102677243 A CN 102677243A CN 2012101414895 A CN2012101414895 A CN 2012101414895A CN 201210141489 A CN201210141489 A CN 201210141489A CN 102677243 A CN102677243 A CN 102677243A
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Abstract
The invention relates to a preparation method of a superfine cashmere woven yarn. The preparation method comprises the steps of: fully mixing 40-55% of water-soluble vinylon fibers in weight and carded cashmere fibers in the wool mixing process; preparing single yarns through carding, gilling, combing, gilling, fore-spinning, roving and spinning processes; sequentially spooning, doubling and twisting to prepare blended yarns of cashmere and vinylon fibers; and warping and weaving the blended yarns to produce a product, and dissolving and removing the water-soluble vinylon fibers in the normal washing shrinkage process to obtain a superfine cashmere finished product. The input-output ratio of the pure-wool high-count yarns produced by adopting the preparation method provided by the invention is higher than the input-output ratio of normal pure-wool spun yarns.
Description
Technical field
The invention belongs to textile technology field, particularly a kind of preparation method of ultra-fine goat cashmere weaving yarn.
Background technology
In recent years, the development trend of weaving face fabric mainly is: the raw material diversification, product is lightening, pattern trendization, einnehmen functionization.In order to comply with this trend, textile enterprise develops a high frivolous product one after another, to satisfy the demand in market.
The development of the high light and thin type product of cashmere textile industry receives the restriction of raw material mix; Because high light and thin type cashmere product receives the restriction of yarn cross section number of fiber, the best branch comb goat cashmere material fineness of quality is 14.5-15um at present, purely spins to greatest extent that limit count is 100Nm.
The goat cashmere raw material resources seriously restrict China's cashmere weaving industry development, and the spinnability of raw material is a key factor of high light and thin type cashmere produce development of restriction.Because the shortage of high-quality goat cashmere raw material resources, for producing a high required high-quality goat cashmere of light and thin type product, price is very expensive.
Though the woven cashmere produce of single-warp single-abb can make the goat cashmere lining lightening, owing to exist yarn strength low, weave difficulty, can not realize producing in batches.
Utilize the soluble polyvinylalcohol companion to spin the cashmere product of producing a high light and thin type; On the basis of existing high-quality goat cashmere raw material; Adding the polyvinyl companion in the spinning process spins; Broken through the yarn cross section number of fiber and do not reached the problem of requirement, improved the spinning property of yarn again, the technical research of this respect has good prospect.
Summary of the invention
The objective of the invention is to overcome the prior art defective, a kind of preparation method of ultra-fine goat cashmere weaving yarn is provided.
The object of the invention is realized according to following proposal:
The preparation method of ultra-fine goat cashmere weaving yarn; Is that the 40%-55% soluble vinylon fiber fully mixes with dividing the comb cashmere fibres at wool blending step with weight; Through carding, grilling, combing, grilling, precedingly spin, rove, spinning process; The single thread of processing passes through winder, doubling more successively, twists thread and process goat cashmere and polyvinyl alcohol fibre blended yarn; Blended yarn through warping, weave and process goods, remove soluble vinylon fiber and obtain ultra-fine cashmere finished product normally washing in the compression process dissolving;
The used branch comb of above-mentioned raw materials cashmere fibres: length: 36-40MM; Fineness: 14.5-15 μ m; Polyvinyl alcohol fibre: length 38MM; Fineness: 1.5D; Real yarn metric count: 107-115Nm/2 moves back dimension back yarn metric count: 178-256Nm/2; Twist factor: single thread 103; Thigh yarn 82;
Above-mentioned spinning technological process is followed successively by: with hair oiling, carding, slubbing grilling, two road grillings, three road grillings, combing, four road grillings, finisher gilling, silver mixing, slubbing grilling, two road grillings, three road grillings, four road grillings, rove, spun yarn, winder, doubling, double twisting;
Said polyvinyl alcohol fibre is that water miscible polyvinyl is diffusing fine, and solution temperature is 40 ℃, fibre length: 38 ± 2mm, and fibre fineness: 1.5D, single fiber is done fracture strength: >=4cN/dtex.
The present invention has adopted the polyvinyl companion to spin the spinning technique of kind, and its technology is roughly identical with normal kind, and difference is:
(1) polyvinyl alcohol fibre need not dye.Because polyvinyl removes in back arrangement process, so need not dye; Do not have dyed polyvinyl in the back arrangement process of non-openpore fabric, it can also be seen that the degree of removing.
(2) do not need yarn steaming,, be unfavorable for the production of later process in order to avoid polyvinyl is met damp and hot violent contraction in the yarn steaming process.
Advantage applies of the present invention is in the following aspects:
1, the present invention produce pure suede high-count yarn higher than normal pure suede yarn input-output ratio.
With diameter is that the branch comb goat cashmere of 15 μ m puts into production and is example, relatively limit count and finished weight.
(1) limit count increases substantially: with the yarn cross section number of fiber is 60 calculating; Normal pure suede kind can only be spun 68Nm; And use when of the present invention, owing to occupy 40%～55% polyvinyl, spinning count can be brought up to 107～115Nm (goat cashmere and polyvinyl blend fibre cross section radical are pressed 45 calculating); Promptly spin with mode of the present invention, spinning count can improve 39～47Nm.
(2) in the back arrangement process, 40%～55% polyvinyl is removed, and under the situation of the number shrinkage of not considering the finished product yarn, theoretical yarn count is brought up to 178～256Nm, promptly on the basis of original raising 39～47Nm, has improved 139～209Nm again.In a word, use the goat cashmere of same fineness, produce with mode of the present invention, the finished product yarn count can improve 110～188Nm.
(3) move back after dimension removes polyvinyl, weight saving alleviates degree and is 0.45～0.6 times of the pure suede kind of 68Nm.Promptly produce, can make fabric lightening with mode of the present invention.
2, the present invention adopts the combing cashmere yarn production line equipment of present maturation to produce, and does not need introducing equipment or carries out scrap build.
3, the present invention has improved the brute force of fiber, has increased the spinnability of yarn; On the basis of not improving the goat cashmere quality, reduced and comprehensively used the suede amount, saved material effectively, greatly reduced production cost.
4, can produce more high-grade product with the branch comb goat cashmere raw material of high-quality, technology of the present invention, greatly improve value-added content of product,, create considerable economic and social benefit for manufacturing enterprise has opened up new market.
The specific embodiment
1, the cashmere fibres blending ratio confirms
According to the requirement of product style and fabric construction, design polyvinyl proportion is 40%～55% comparatively suitable.
Choose rational blending ratio, should consider the style of finished product, be convenient to weave production again.
It is low excessively that polyvinyl is sneaked into ratio, removes behind the polyvinyl yarn count and improve not quite, do not have much meanings for producing a high frivolous kind; It is too high that polyvinyl is sneaked into ratio, remove behind the polyvinyl yarn count improve big, but weave and the finished product style between have contradiction.Polyvinyl is in spinning process, to add, and in back arrangement process, removes, and grey cloth is a goat cashmere polyvinyl blended yarn woven fabric, and finished product is the pure velvet fabric that does not contain polyvinyl.If consider from the aspect of conveniently weaving production, utilize rational secret degree to weave, but after in back arrangement process, removing polyvinyl, the finished product style does not reach requirement, lining is too lax, and is not plentiful; If consider from the aspect that requires that reaches the finished product style, contain that secret degree certainly will be excessive on the blended yarn of polyvinyl, weave production and can't carry out.
With the method for backward reasoning, derive rational goat cashmere polyvinyl blending ratio below.
On the one hand, start with, consider to select bigger last secret degree, but be no more than the maximum secret degree of from being convenient to weave the production aspect.Value is maximum 95% of the secret degree of, that is:
P＝P1×95％(1)
P---reasonably go up secret degree
P1---secret degree on the maximum of goat cashmere polyvinylalcohol blended yarn
On the other hand, the worsted cashmere scarf tippet that design density is moderate requires to start with from satisfying the finished product style, and secret degree value is maximum 65%～75% of the secret degree of in the consideration, that is:
P＝P2×(65％～75％)(2)
P2---remove secret degree on the maximum of pure suede yarn behind the polyvinyl
And select reasonably to go up secret degree, and satisfy this two conditions simultaneously, with (1) formula substitution (2) formula:
P1/P2＝67％～78％(3)
For same fabric, density is directly proportional with the evolution of metric count, that is:
P1/P2＝(Nm1/Nm2)
1/2(4)
With (4) formula substitution (3) formula:
Nm1/Nm2＝45％～60％(5)
Nm1---the metric count of polyvinyl companion spinning
Nm2---remove the metric count of pure suede yarn behind the polyvinyl
(5) formula explanation: the number of polyvinyl companion spinning is to remove 45%～60% of pure suede yarn count behind the polyvinyl, calculates according to the design kind, and the ratio of promptly sneaking into polyvinyl is 40%～55% for the most reasonable.
2, production-line technique flow process and technological parameter
Polyvinyl companion spins in the yarn cross section radical of the high frivolous kind of pure suede owing to comprised 45%～60% soluble polyvinylalcohol fiber, has not only reduced the cross section radical of cashmere fibres relatively, and has improved the spinning property of yarn greatly.
Technological process: with hair oiling, carding, slubbing grilling, two road grillings, three road grillings, combing, four road grillings, finisher gilling, silver mixing, slubbing grilling, two road grillings, three road grillings, four road grillings, rove, spun yarn, winder, doubling, double twisting.
Spin goat cashmere yarn 110Nm/2 with the polyvinyl companion is example at present, sets forth system bar, spinning production technology:
2.1 system bar technological process and technological parameter:
Raw material: 37mm divides comb goat cashmere 52% (w), 38mm polyvinyl alcohol fibre 48% (w)
1) wool blending step
(1) elder generation will carry out refueling with hair after will dividing the shredding of comb goat cashmere with mixing willow, select FX908 and crude oil and FX-AS301 antistatic additive for use, and the weight oil-water ratio is 1: 0.5: 8;
(2) require mixing, shredding, feeding even;
(3) mixing willow is selected homemade mixing willow for use.
2) carding process
(1) technological parameter:
| Operation | And close radical (root) | Shaping weight (gram/rice) | Deviation of weight (gram/rice) |
| Carding | 1 | 8 | ±2 |
(2) combing machine for fur is selected homemade worsted card for use;
3) slubbing grilling operation
(1) technological parameter:
(2) the slubbing gill box is selected French NSC GN5 gill box for use
4) two road grilling operations
(1) technological parameter:
(2) two road gill boxes are selected French NSC GN5 gill box for use
5) three road grilling operations
(1) technological parameter:
(2) three road gill boxes are selected French NSC GN5 gill box for use
6) combing process
(1) technological parameter:
| Operation | And close radical (root) | Shaping weight (gram/rice) | Deviation of weight (gram/rice) |
| Combing | 8-10 | 16 | ±2 |
(2) combing machine is selected French NSC PB30 combing machine for use
7) four road grilling operations
(1) technological parameter:
(2) four road gill boxes are selected French NSC GN5 gill box for use
8) finisher gilling operation
(1) technological parameter:
(2) finisher box is selected French NSC GN5 gill box for use
Workshop temperature 20-28 ℃ of bar of system, relative humidity 55-65%
2.2 spinning technological process and technological parameter:
1) silver mixing operation
(1) technological parameter:
(2) gilling machine is selected French NSC GN6 gill box for use
(3) the silver mixing refueling water is selected FX908 and crude oil and FX-AS301 antistatic additive for use, and the profit weight ratio is 1: 0.5: 8; Official regain 10%.
2) slubbing grilling operation
(1) technological parameter:
(2) the slubbing gill box is selected French NSC GN6 gill box for use
3) two road grilling operations
(2) two road gill boxes are selected French NSC GN6 gill box for use
4) three road grilling operations
(1) technological parameter:
(2) three road gill boxes are selected Italian Szentendre SHS-24 gill box for use
5) four road grilling operations
(1) technological parameter:
(2) four road gill boxes are selected Italian Szentendre SHS-24 gill box for use
6) rove operation
(1) technological parameter:
(2) Speed frames are selected Italian Szentendre RF5 Speed frames for use
7) spinning process
(1) technological parameter:
(2) fine spining machine is selected Italian COGNETEX fine spining machine for use
(3) the spun yarn bar is done Wu Site CV value: 20%
8) winding procedure
(1) technological parameter:
(2) automatic winder is selected Italian SAVIO ORION bobbin winder for use
9) doubling operation
(1) technological parameter:
(2) doubling frame is selected homemade doubling frame for use
10) double twisting operation
(1) technological parameter:
(2) two-for-one twister is selected homemade two-for-one twister for use
The technical indicator of finished product yarn:
Yam count: 110Nm/2 (moving back dimension back yam count 220Nm/2)
Percentage of count deviation: ± 4.5% percentage of twist deviation: ± 5%
Twist irregularity rate: ± 10% yarn fibers content: 100%
Yarn oil and fat content: 1.2-1.5% single thread strip dry CV value: 20%.
Claims (4)
1. the preparation method of ultra-fine goat cashmere weaving yarn; Is that the 40%-55% soluble vinylon fiber fully mixes with dividing the comb cashmere fibres at wool blending step with weight; Through carding, grilling, combing, grilling, precedingly spin, rove, spinning process; The single thread of processing passes through winder, doubling more successively, twists thread and process goat cashmere and polyvinyl alcohol fibre blended yarn; Blended yarn through warping, weave and process goods, remove soluble vinylon fiber and obtain ultra-fine cashmere finished product normally washing in the compression process dissolving.
2. the preparation method of ultra-fine goat cashmere weaving yarn as claimed in claim 1 is characterized in that the used branch comb of raw material cashmere fibres: length: 36-40MM; Fineness: 14.5-15 μ m; Polyvinyl alcohol fibre: length 38MM; Fineness: 1.5D; Real yarn metric count: 107-115Nm/2 moves back dimension back yarn metric count: 178-256Nm/2; Twist factor: single thread 103; Thigh yarn 82.
3. the preparation method of ultra-fine goat cashmere weaving yarn as claimed in claim 1 is characterized in that its spinning technological process is followed successively by: with hair oiling, carding, slubbing grilling, two road grillings, three road grillings, combing, four road grillings, finisher gilling, silver mixing, slubbing grilling, two road grillings, three road grillings, four road grillings, rove, spun yarn, winder, doubling, double twisting.
4. the preparation method of ultra-fine goat cashmere weaving yarn as claimed in claim 2; It is characterized in that said polyvinyl alcohol fibre is that water miscible polyvinyl is diffusing fine, solution temperature is 40 ℃, fibre length: 38 ± 2mm; Fibre fineness: 1.5D, single fiber is done fracture strength: >=4cN/dtex.
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| CN201210141489.5A CN102677243B (en) | 2012-05-09 | 2012-05-09 | The preparation method of superfine cashmere woven yarn |
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| CN102677243A true CN102677243A (en) | 2012-09-19 |
| CN102677243B CN102677243B (en) | 2016-12-21 |
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Cited By (15)
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| CN102704099A (en) * | 2012-06-06 | 2012-10-03 | 内蒙古鹿王羊绒有限公司 | 220Nm pure cashmere spun yarn and preparation method thereof |
| CN102936772A (en) * | 2012-11-16 | 2013-02-20 | 宁夏嘉源绒业集团有限公司 | High-count spinning cashmere spun silk scribbled and manufacture method thereof |
| CN103031636A (en) * | 2012-12-14 | 2013-04-10 | 江苏黄果树服饰有限公司 | Spinning method of yarn |
| CN103451793A (en) * | 2013-08-29 | 2013-12-18 | 新疆华春毛纺有限公司 | 16-count cashmere single yarn spinning process |
| CN104372476A (en) * | 2014-12-09 | 2015-02-25 | 河北浩丽羊绒科技有限公司 | Long cashmere yarn manufacture method |
| CN104611800A (en) * | 2015-02-01 | 2015-05-13 | 宁夏嘉源绒业集团有限公司 | High-count combed camel hair woven yarn |
| CN103924395B (en) * | 2014-04-15 | 2015-12-02 | 清华大学 | The methods and applications of the two-sided machine embroidery of woollen spun fingering yarn |
| CN106435887A (en) * | 2016-07-25 | 2017-02-22 | 赤峰东盛亿纺织有限公司 | 42S ultrafine cashmere high counts woollen hosiery yarn preparation method |
| CN106435885A (en) * | 2015-08-07 | 2017-02-22 | 宁波康赛妮纺织品有限公司 | Preparation technology for cashmere hollow yarns |
| CN106283312B (en) * | 2016-10-28 | 2018-06-19 | 江苏中孚达科技股份有限公司 | A kind of spinning process of superelevation branch silk/camel's hair combed yarn |
| CN108468121A (en) * | 2018-05-31 | 2018-08-31 | 浙江神州毛纺织有限公司 | A kind of processing method of wool air yarn |
| CN108728961A (en) * | 2018-06-13 | 2018-11-02 | 内蒙古新力纺织科技股份有限公司 | A kind of cashmere water soluble fiber mixing spinning method for genuine |
| CN111349997A (en) * | 2020-04-24 | 2020-06-30 | 维信（内蒙古）针织高科技有限公司 | Water-soluble fiber and cashmere blended 36-count semi-worsted yarn and preparation method thereof |
| CN111607860A (en) * | 2020-04-22 | 2020-09-01 | 天宇羊毛工业（张家港保税区）有限公司 | Preparation process of 23-micron wool tops with high CVD (chemical vapor deposition) variation coefficient |
| CN111621885A (en) * | 2020-04-22 | 2020-09-04 | 天宇羊毛工业（张家港保税区）有限公司 | Preparation process of wool tops with high CVD (chemical vapor deposition) variation coefficient of 19.5 microns |
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| CN102936772B (en) * | 2012-11-16 | 2016-01-13 | 宁夏嘉源绒业集团有限公司 | High-count worsted cashmere silk blending yarn and manufacture method thereof |
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| CN103451793A (en) * | 2013-08-29 | 2013-12-18 | 新疆华春毛纺有限公司 | 16-count cashmere single yarn spinning process |
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| CN103924395B (en) * | 2014-04-15 | 2015-12-02 | 清华大学 | The methods and applications of the two-sided machine embroidery of woollen spun fingering yarn |
| CN104372476A (en) * | 2014-12-09 | 2015-02-25 | 河北浩丽羊绒科技有限公司 | Long cashmere yarn manufacture method |
| CN104611800A (en) * | 2015-02-01 | 2015-05-13 | 宁夏嘉源绒业集团有限公司 | High-count combed camel hair woven yarn |
| CN106435885A (en) * | 2015-08-07 | 2017-02-22 | 宁波康赛妮纺织品有限公司 | Preparation technology for cashmere hollow yarns |
| CN106435887A (en) * | 2016-07-25 | 2017-02-22 | 赤峰东盛亿纺织有限公司 | 42S ultrafine cashmere high counts woollen hosiery yarn preparation method |
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| CN108468121A (en) * | 2018-05-31 | 2018-08-31 | 浙江神州毛纺织有限公司 | A kind of processing method of wool air yarn |
| CN108728961A (en) * | 2018-06-13 | 2018-11-02 | 内蒙古新力纺织科技股份有限公司 | A kind of cashmere water soluble fiber mixing spinning method for genuine |
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